May Food Issue 2013

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Food is sue


速 速


20 TH

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T R IBE Z A

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features Kitchen Icons The Return of Jeffrey's Scrumptious Style The Foodie Diaries Secrets of the Staff Sweet Genius

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d e pa rtm e nt s

60 68 78 92 102 110

on the cover: Pa s try ch efs: l au r a sawicki, k yle mckin n e y & c a llie speer; photogr aphy by leann mueller + food & prop s t y l i n g b y a n n lo w e + H a i r b y B r i t ta n y B e l l + M a k e u p b y Rebecc a Ferguson of JosĂŠ Luis Salon.

Communit y

Style

Social Hour

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Profile in Style: Elizabeth Winslow

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Kristin Armstrong

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Behind the Scenes

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Exposed: Jody Horton

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Street Style

Perspective: Todd Duplechan

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Style Pick

Things We Love

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Arts

Arts & Entertainment Calendar

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Artist Spotlight

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Dining

Dining Pick

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Our Little Secret

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: barley swine dessert photo by leann mueller; todd duplechAn photo by wynn myers; marsha from hillside farmacy photo by andrew chan; egg photo by nicole mlakar-livingston; brioche tart photo by kate lesueur; kyle mckinney photo by leann mueller.

Contents



Editor’s Letter

EDITOR'S NOTE: This month, we say goodbye to our lovely editorial assistant Lisa Siva (pictured), as she sets sail for the Big Apple. We have all learned a great deal from this brilliant writer and kind, gentle soul. She has delighted our palate with the most melt in your mouth brioche, challenged us to think about the magazine in new ways, and warmed our hearts with her wholesome zest for life. Lisa signs all her emails "sincerely" and she means it. That's the way she interacts with everyone who is lucky enough to cross her path. As our resident foodie, Lisa will introduce you to this year's Food Issue—of which we are quite proud—and say so long in her own words. Farewell to a true gem and bright light! We can't wait to watch you make your impact on the world. It's going to be big... L. Smith Ford

W

hen we gather around the table, over crumbs and stories, a remarkable thing happens: we become family. For this issue at TRIBEZA, we broke bread and spilled wine with our culinary community, with those who serve, cook, chronicle and love food. You’ll find photographer Jody Horton, who has lovingly captured so many people and plates across the city, on the other side of the lens in this month’s “Exposed” on page 40, while Chef Todd Duplechan of Lenoir trades his spatula for a pen on page 44 and offers us a glimpse into the making of a chef.

As our city’s food scene blossoms, we strive to both remember our culinary past and toast to the future—and S. Kirk Walsh did just that in “The Return of Jeffrey’s” on page 68, an insightful retrospective of the storied Clarksville restaurant and a preview of the institution to come. For “Kitchen Icons” on page 60, we looked beyond our city limits, at legends like Julia Child and Alain Ducasse, who defined modern cuisine. Chefs Laura Sawicki, Ned Elliott and Andrew Francisco paid homage to their culinary ancestors—but with a perspective and a palate of their own. For dessert, Tolly Moseley took a look at Austin’s sweeter side with Pastry Chefs Callie Speer, Kyle McKinney and Janina O’Leary in “Sweet Genius” on page 110.

With such a treasure trove of enchanting and delectable stories, I am honored to call this issue my last. It has been an unforgettable two and a half years, and I have been blessed every day with our city’s creative community, with a thoughtful readership and with an extraordinary family at TRIBEZA. I hope you came hungry—there’s a feast just beyond this page.

Lisa Siva

lisa@tribeza.com

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lisa siva photo by andrew chan

Behind the scenes, line cooks, sous chefs, servers and bartenders at some of the city’s most noted eateries shared their take on the restaurant world in “Secrets of the Staff” on page 102. Finally, “The Foodie Diaries” (page 92) are a collection of stories about Austin’s most delicious and unexpected culinary events, from the decadent “Killed by Dessert” to the aptly-named “Funky Chicken Coop Tour.”


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A u s t i n a r t s + c u lt u r e

PUBLISHER

George T. Elliman EDITOR + creative director

Lauren Smith Ford

designer

Ashley Horsley

editorial assistant

Lisa Siva

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Events + Marketing Coordinator

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Senior Account ExeCutives

Ashley Beall Andrea Brunner Kimberly Chassay principals George T. Elliman Chuck Sack Vance Sack Michael Torres interns

Allie Besing Michelle Blam Marisa Riley Madeline Waggoner Jessica Wiseman

Columnist

Kristin Armstrong Illustrator

Joy Gallagher WRITERs

Todd Duplechan Megan Giller Tolly Moseley Marisa Riley Lisa Siva S. Kirk Walsh

Photographers

Miguel Angel Andrew Chan Jody Horton Kate LeSueur Nicole Mlakar-Livingston LeAnn Mueller Wynn Myers Jessica Pages John Pesina Evan Prince Matt Rainwaters Annie Ray Bill Sallans Jay B Sauceda mailing address 706a west 34th street austin, texas 78705 ph (512) 474 4711 fax (512) 474 4715 www.tribeza.com

Founded in March 2001, TRIBEZA is Austin's leading locally owned arts and culture magazine. Copyright @ 2013 by TRIBEZA. All rights reserved. Reproduction, in whole or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher, is prohibited. TRIBEZA is a proud member of the Austin Chamber of Commerce.

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A ndre a dut y, Ba ke Sa le

The Bohn Hous e

TRIBEZA enlisted Andrea Duty of Bake Sale to create the beau-

The historic Bohn House serves as the backdrop for this month's

tiful cakes for the cover and in "Scrumptious Style" on page 78.

fashion shoot, "Scrumptious Style" on page 78. Designed by famed

Duty grew up in the island town of Anacortes, Washington, and

Austin architect Roy L. Thomas, the Bohn house was built in 1938

then headed to the great state of Texas to study Broadcast Jour-

with a streamlined modern design inspired by science fiction nov-

nalism at TCU. In pursuit of a career with a culinary bent, she co-

el "Lost Horizon." Situated on .38 acres with beautiful gardens,

created a local food and entertainment magazine in Fort Worth

a series of spring-fed fountains and a Koi pond, the property has

before her passion for cooking drew her to the French Culinary In-

sweeping views of downtown Austin. Unique art deco touches are

stitute in Manhattan. After graduating with a degree in Classic Cu-

seen throughout the house, including aluminum rails with crystal

linary Arts, Duty moved to Austin where she honed her pastry skills

spheres, porthole windows and a circular door. For more informa-

in several restaurants. She opened Bake Sale with the simple desire

tion on the Bohn House, which is currently on the market, visit

to create nostalgic desserts that taste really damn good. For more

1301west29thstreet.com.

information on Bake Sale, visit bakesaleaustin.com.

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Andrea duty photo by bill sallans; strawberry cake photo by leann mueller; bohn house photo by piston designs.

Inside The Food Issue



social hour

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1 Stylish design couple Cody Haltom (pictured right) and Avalon McKenzie (center) with Jett Butler of FĂ–DA. Haltom is on the design team for Qui, while McKenzie just moved back to Austin to work as a designer at Whole Foods. Butler is currently working on branding for Beehive, among other projects.

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Blogger Camille Styles recently signed a book deal with Harper Collins. Claire Zinnecker is an Associate Designer for Joel Mozersky's one eleven design and one of our favorite people to follow on Instagram. Catch up on her adventures in design @clairezinnecker.

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Tribeza Style Issue Release Party 6

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TRIBEZA celebrated the release of our April Style Issue with HELM Boots during a fashionable evening at their new East Side shop. Guests enjoyed sips by Maker’s Mark, Pacifico, Victoria and Deep Eddy Vodka, as well as ranch-inspired fare by Contigo.

April Issue Release Party: 1. Jett Butler, Avalon McKenzie & Cody Haltom 2. Ben Edgerton & Adi Anand 3. Kirsten Dickerson & Leigh Patterson 4. Erin Muller & Lori Fox 5. Chris Bykowski & Noah Marion 6. Meredith Stoner & Tasha Petty 7. Sam Sanford & Ann Lowe 8. Hillary Bilheimer & Ethan Brown 9. Joshua & Sarah Bingaman 10. Camille Styles & Claire Zinnecker 11. Kyle Muller & Brandon Dickerson

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P h oto g r a p h y by j o h n p e s i n a & M i g u eL A n g el


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Seton Board VIP Party

Friends of the Elizabeth Ann Seton Board convened for Celebrate You at the home of Meghan and Chris Slover. The event was the pre-celebration for the Live from Camp Mabry Gala that was held on April 13. The events benefitted the Seton Community Health Centers. Seton Board VIP Party: 1. Emily Galatzan, Elise Bridges, & Taylor Bowles 2. Michael & Cheryl Renna 3. Leslie Davenport, Laura Craddick, & Suzanne Erickson 4. Katherine Harner & Samantha Bernstein 5. Amy Deane, Lori Johnson & Lisa Magids 6. Abby Ford & Molly Jones 7. Marshall & Beth Durrett 8. Martha Small Dyess & Lindsay Majors 9. Meghan & Chris Slover 10. Michael & Sharon Walker 11. Margo Tate & Susan Dunaway

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P h oto g r a p h y by j o h n p e s i n a



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1 Texas Monthly editor Jake Silverstein with musician and composer Graham Reynolds. Explore Texas Monthly's beautifully redesigned website, and look out for the May Issue, which Silverstein says will feature an "incredible guide to unspoiled adventure along the Texas coast."

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Current President of the AMOA-Arthouse Board of Trustees, Darrell Windham is pictured with the champion for the Waller Creek project Melba Whatley, who just hosted a benefit at Jeffrey's for the Creek as well as a trip to NYC for the board to see the Brooklyn Bridge Park, Former Mayor of Austin Will Wynn is pictured right. He continues to spread the Austin Gospel, advocating for and consulting on all things green.

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Say Hello to Louis Grachos

AMOA-Arthouse welcomed its new Executive Director, Louis Grachos, during a creative evening of film, music and cuisine. Against a backdrop of video art by Jeff Kurihara, guests sipped on cocktails by mixologists David Alan and Joyce Garrison and savored bites by The Carillon, Lucky Robot and more.

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Big Hair Country Fair

The Big Hair Country Fair celebrated a Texas-sized evening of all-youcan eat barbecue, carnival games and dancing to the sounds of Chaparral and Brave Combo. Held at The Salt Lick Pavilion, the fair commemorated the evening with a western-inspired photo booth and benefited Creative Action’s arts education programs.

Louis Grachos: 1. Jake Silverstein & Graham Reynolds 2. Tom Hudson & Cory Ryan 3. Christopher Culver & Sasha Calvino 4. Darrell Windham, Melba Whatley & Will Wynn 5. Danielle Nieciag & Sarah Ellison Lewis 6. Natalia Prieto & Maryam Brown 7. Michu Benaim & Lope Gutierrez-Ruiz Big Hair Country Fair: 8. Alex & Sonnet Wetterichl 9. Katy Sulester, Elizabeth Rogers & Laura Craddick 10. Kristin Cowden, Clary Auler & Cynthia Smith 11. Searcy Milam & Virginia McRee

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P h oto g r a p h y by j o h n p e s i n a



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Crystal Bash

Women & Their Work celebrated 35 years of art and dynamic female artists at the beautiful home of Alexa and Blaine Wesner. The enchanting evening featured ethereal sounds by DJ Mahealani, readings by psychic Joe Nicols, a curated silent auction, drinks by Tito’s Handmade Vodka and cuisine by Fete Accompli.

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Emerging Leaders Cocktail Party

Austinites joined the Eastside Community Connection for an intimate evening at Max’s Wine Dive, complete with hors d’oeuvres and a silent auction. Over cocktails, guests showed their support for ECC’s programs, which provide basic needs assistance to low-income Austinites and celebrate the strength of our local community.

Luminaria

This spring, Luminaria recognized the efforts of the American Red Cross to bring comfort and hope to those in distress. The stylish evening honored three Central Texas heroes with a beautiful dinner, cocktails and live entertainment in support of the American Red Cross of Central Texas and its relief efforts.

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Crystal Bash: 1. Josh Parks & Lauritz Sparkman-Williams 2. Karen & Rick Hawkins 3. Colleen Fitzgerald & Angela Crockett 4. Elizabeth Stanley, Emily Haas & Chris Pelligrino 5. Megan McIlwain & Katy Hirschfeld 6. Tito & Lorie Beveridge, Becky Beaver & John Duncan 7. Katy Culmo, Jennifer Kuczaj & Liz Baskin 8. Mike Chesser & Theresa Windham 9. Jeff Taylor & Christa Clark 10. Mitch & Janna Jacobson Emerging Leaders: 11. Kitty Clement & Bijoulea Finney Luminaria: 12. Sofia & Victoria Avila

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P h oto g r a p h y by m i g u el a n g el & j o h n p e s i n a



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Bandana Ball

Among the sprawling oak trees of Wild Onion Ranch, guests of the Bandana Ball mingled over cocktails, dinner and sounds by The Spazmatics, all benefiting the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Austin and Central Texas. The cowboy chic evening aimed to support families of critically ill and hospitalized children in our community.

4th & Goal Gala

In memory of legendary athlete and coach Darrell K Royal, the Darrell K Royal Fund held an inspiring evening benefiting Alzheimer’s Disease research. Willie Nelson performed on the ACL Live stage to support medical schools and research organizations in Texas as they strive to treat and cure Alzheimer’s.

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Shower Strike

Well Aware led this year’s Shower Strike, a movement for sustainable clean water in Kenya. On World Water Day, the organization partnered with the ONE Campaign for a launch party to celebrate the remarkable volunteers who have pledged not to shower until they have each met their fundraising goals for lifesaving water systems in Kenya.

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Kelly Wynne Handbags Launch Party

A chic launch party at Valentine’s Too welcomed Kelly Wynne Handbags to Austin. Kelly Wynne White, the Texas-based designer, hosted the cocktail hour, featuring drinks, light bites and her striking collection of elegant, structured bags— each one a timeless wardrobe staple.

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Bandana Ball: 1. Megan Carnathan & Lindsay Weeks 2. Paige & Aaron Brum 3. Blake, Christine Absher & Jordan Mullins 4th & Goal Gala: 4. Lance & Abigail Aldridge 5. Elena Trombetta & Ryan Howard 6. Mark McKnight & Laura Fowler 7. Ben Crenshaw & Jadon Garrett Shower Strike: 8. Shaley Shirley & Caitlin Christopher 9. Sarah Evans & Blake Mycoskie Kelly Wynne: 10. Pam & Kelly White

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P h oto g r a p h y by j o h n p e s i n a & m i g u el a n g el


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Fallen Flowers

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LAND design duo Ryan Rhodes and Caleb Owen Everitt showcased a collaborative exhibition of their work, inspired by early iconography and folk art, at Farewell Books. The Texas natives aim to reveal an authentic Americana story, told on a canvas of aged and reclaimed industrial fabrics.

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Five x Seven Art SPLURGE

After a year-long expansion of the Jones Center, AMOA-Arthouse unveiled its beautifully renovated space during the Five x Seven Art SPLURGE, which offered guests an exclusive first look at over 1,000 original 5x7-inch works by emerging and established contemporary artists.

Fallen Flowers: 1. Mikaylah Bowman & Travis Kent 2. Jason Baczynski & Isabela Ruppa 3. Bridget Golden, Amanda Frazier & Jordan Haeger 4. Matt Bolick & Lily Steckeln 5. Ryan Rhodes & Renee Fernandez 6. Ashleigh Holeman & Mark Tonucci 7. Chris King & Caleb Owen Everitt 8. Shelly Bowers, Kenny Pursley & Penelope Pursley 5 x 7: 9.Terry & Graham Quinn 10. Sean Ripple & Sean Gaulager 11. Adam Curry & Micky Hoogendijk-Curry

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P h oto g r a p h y by j o h n p e s i n a



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Waller Creek Picnic

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On the banks of Waller Creek, Austinites spread their blankets across Palm Park for a springtime picnic, hosted by Julie Blakeslee and John Spong and benefiting the Waller Creek Conservancy. Notable chefs, including James Holmes and Larry McGuire crafted delectable baskets for the evening, as guests re-imagined the vibrant landscape of downtown Austin.

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Evening Under the Stars

The Seton Fund and Elizabeth Ann Seton Board held a sparkling gala at Camp Mabry, featuring music by Jerry Jeff Walker and the Bellamy Brothers. Guests enjoyed a sumptuous dinner by Lamberts Downtown Barbeque in support of the Seton Community Health Centers and the Sister Gertrude Levy Endowment for the Poor.

Waller Creek Picnic: 1. Jennifer Carnes & James White 2. John Spong & Julie Blakeslee 3. Sarah O'Brien & John Kaercher 4. Arash Zarfraia & Alison Biers 5. Catherine Gavin & Ingrid Spencer 6. Lana McGilvray & DJ Stout Evening Under the Stars: 7. Jenny Goodwyn & Tiffany O'Shea 8. Andrew & Anna Halton 9. Sarah & Matt Wayne 10. Leah & Chris Petri 11. Laura & Bruce Scott

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community

column

Food is Love BY K R I STI N ARMSTRONG I llu s tr atio n by Joy G a ll agh er Food can be a lot of things. It can be sustenance, a crutch, an

addiction, an issue, a means of connection, a link to generations past, a source of joy, a sign of holidays, a flavor of childhood, a reminder to take good care of ourselves and each other. Recently, I witnessed food acting out perhaps its greatest, most noble role—food as comfort. A dear friend of mine lost her husband tragically and suddenly, and I watched our community close in around her and her children, filling her home, her heart and her kitchen to overflowing. People arrived in a constant stream, and not knowing what else to do or say, they brought food. Lots of it. There were breakfast tacos, donuts, pastries, BBQ brisket and peppered turkey, beans and potato salad, Chick-fil-A nuggets, sandwich trays, cookie platters, chips and salsa, candy, almonds and plenty of beer and wine. This is southern for: your heart may be broken, but y’all will never, ever go hungry. This is a beautiful translation of love. It means the same thing it means when I pack my kids' lunches every day: I haven’t forgotten you. I am with you even when I’m not with you. May this act of devotion sustain you. I care about how you feel today. Don’t forget where you came from. If you lose your center, here’s a taste of home. It’s interesting to me that the times we most need to be fed are the times when we have no appetite at all. When we are numb, delirious, exhausted, grieving or ill and can’t feel or heed the normal signals that tell us to pause and refuel. Lightheadedness prevails and hunger pangs diffuse into an overall ache, and we go on fumes until we cannot go anymore. Unless someone kind makes us a plate and sits with us, watching while we eat. Strength takes fuel. Healing requires help. It also requires endurance. Just like so many people bring so many things in the immediacy surrounding a situation, sometimes the finest gift of all is dinner…two months later.

When we can’t taste anything, we need people who instruct us to eat anyway. We need healthy people who remind us that other people are counting on us to be strong and well-nourished. What we cannot do for ourselves, we can often be inspired to do for others. This is how and why brokenhearted mothers and grieving people everywhere can get out of bed and remain in the land of the living…because they aren’t doing it for themselves. Sometimes, you have to eat and keep eating until one day your appetite returns. You have to smile and keep smiling until the day you are surprised by the presence of joy. Those who come bearing food, those who are brave enough to step into the vortex of someone else’s pain are like torchbearers for the soul. Their light shines on the path that eventually leads through and beyond, as they touch their flame of faith to the waning wick of the weary. I know our friend and her children will be fed. I know they will eventually find their joy, and that they will find reasons to smile in the meantime. I know that while their loss may never make sense, they will make peace with the questions. I know that in the face of tremendous pain, they will cultivate unprecedented resilience and unwavering faith. And I know, from the vantage point of adulthood, that those children will not only look back upon the memory of an amazing father, but also recall with absolute awe the raw courage and unfailing fortitude of their mother. At our very finest, good people are like ants. Even though we are very small in the face of big things, by our collective strength we can carry many times our own weight. I saw ants marching into our friend’s house, carrying food, paper towels, clothing, comfort, strength and memories. And I saw ants crawl out, each transporting a tiny piece of a burden that no family could ever carry alone.

i l lu s t r at i o n by j oy g a l l ag h er For a limite d- e dit i on p r int , c onta c t jo ygall agh e r@g m ail .c om .

tribeza.com

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community

profile

exposed

Jody Horton photogr apher

O

ne autumn evening, photographer Jody Horton found himself in his Mountaineer with chef Jesse Griffiths, hurtling south toward Port Aransas. When they reached the coast, Horton had eight minutes until sundown to dig a sand pit, build a fire and photograph Griffiths’ saltwater catch. “It’s a little stressful but also exhilarating,” he says. “You know you have no time, but you have to pull it off—and you still have to get the shot, despite the odds.” Horton has taken this philosophy with him from Costa Rica to Maine, from deer blinds to peach farms, capturing evocative stories of real people and their food along the way. A native of South Carolina, he discovered his anthropological bent to photography while chronicling food culture in New Mexico as editor of La Cocinita: “I love how passionate people are about food,” he says, “and how food—in gathering and preparation—has a natural structure for storytelling.” Though he first moved to Austin with his wife to pursue documentary filmmaking, Horton returned to photography seven years later, when his first son was born. Since then, he has photographed people and their plates for the likes of Bon Appétit and Texas Monthly, creating bright, vibrant work with a lingering filmic quality, a sense of a narrative unfolding beyond the edges of the photograph. “Often, food photos can be very static, so I’m conscious of trying to bring an element of movement,” he says. “The overarching aim is for it to feel right and honest in some way.” For more information about Jody Horton and his work, visit jodyhorton.com. l. siva

12 Questions f o r j o dy

What is the most beautiful place in the world you’ve visited? I’ve been lucky to travel all over, but no place is as beautiful to me as the marshlands of the Carolina coast where I grew up. What is your idea of the perfect meal? A dozen raw oysters, a whiskey and a beer. If you could own any photograph in the world, what would it be? The Pond—Moonlight by Edward Steichen. I would keep it a while, and then sell it.

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What is one thing most people don’t know about you? That I was born in Germany. What was your favorite childhood food? Fried shrimp. What are your travel essentials? Hat, toothbrush, carry-on sized bag and magazine (if flying). Who or what most inspires you? My wife and two sons. If you weren’t in your current career, what would you be? A writer, probably. I started out writing, but it was

too hard, so I picked up photography. What is the biggest challenge you have overcome? Juggling the competing needs of work, family life and sleep. This is an ongoing challenge. If you could share a meal with anyone, living or dead, who would it be? My grandfather, Joe Moore. I’d like him to see the boys especially. If you were an inventor, what would you invent? I am an inventor—and I’m not telling. What is your favorite time period? Now. P h oto g r a p h y by jay b s au c eda



13903 PANORAMA DRIVE $1,625,000

Susan GrifďŹ th

| Broker, Elite 25

Office 512-327-4874 x 164 | Fax 512-328-0518 sg@ameliabullock.com | susangriffithrealestate.com



community

perspective

i n hi s ow n wor ds

Todd Duplechan Own er , L enoir

Food is the language he’s spoken around the world—but love and a dream brought this innovative chef back home.

I

grew up in the suburbs of Dallas in Richardson, Texas. Most of my family were some motley mix of German and Acadian, and eating was always the main event for family get-togethers and holidays. My parents divorced when I was young, so my eating habits varied by household. With my mother’s side of the family, weekends began on Friday nights with cookouts and car maintenance, stretching all the way to Sunday evenings. I was a pretty skinny kid, mostly up to no good, but my parents kept me and my sister busy with housework, yard work and lots of family weekend cookouts. Time at my dad’s Cajun household, by comparison, meant eating out at different restaurants hidden in various strip malls around Dallas. My father had been in almost every branch of the military as a young man and had developed a taste for Asian food. He was only interested in the most authentic food, so we spent many a night in restaurants with menus we couldn't read, pointing at what we wanted to eat. Dim sum, sushi and pho were all things I regularly ate as an 8-year-old...and it was great! When we were home, we ate off the land as old farmers do, even though we were still in the middle of the Richardson suburbs. My dad was, and still is, a Master Gardener and keeper of any number of “pets”—although our rabbits, turtles and pigeons all eventually became dinner. It might have seemed depressing at the time, but it was the beginning of my understanding of where food comes from. My first restaurant job was working for a

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friend’s family’s restaurant, Solly’s BBQ, a Dallas icon for over 50 years. While most of my friends there wanted to work the take-out or the cash register, I volunteered to be in the kitchen doing anything. I would work split shifts starting at 9 am with pulling the briskets and cutting and cleaning a 50-gallon trash can full of potatoes before par-frying them. I worked the lunch rush as the gopher for the guys working the chopping block. I’d be out by 1 pm and back by 5 pm for the dinner, when I got to work the block. At the end of the night, I put the briskets on the smoker. I never got tired of it. After high school, I moved to Denver to work on my mountain biking and try to get into architecture school. I kept cooking to pay my bills, but after failed attempts at both biking and admissions, I started to consider cooking a viable career. I ended up at the Colorado Institute of Art, and while in school, I realized that I could use a job as a cook as an excuse to travel, which is really what I wanted most. Cooking is like a universal language that allowed me to move from Denver to Atlanta to Europe and then the Caribbean and finally, to New York City. At every stop, I hit town with no job, no place to live and made short work of finding both. I worked for a while, made friends and a little money and then moved on to the next city. I may not have been working at the best or fanciest places in town, but I was gaining life and restaurant culture experience that prepared me for the next step. In New York, I had the most profound changes of my life up to that point. I found a city and a girl with whom I felt a kinship. I met Jessica when we

were working at sister restaurants in lower Manhattan, both just recent transplants. Eventually, as our relationship grew and our careers took us all over the city, we started plotting our futures. We knew a decision had to be made about whether to stay in New York or pursue something of our own in a place that was more realistic. Because we both had family in Texas, we knew we would have support enough to give business ownership a real shot. We were already engaged with plans to get married at the Salt Lick in May 2007, so we took our honeymoon early and then headed to Austin with zero cash in our pockets, looking for jobs and a new start. Austin has really turned out to be just the right fit for both of us personally and professionally. I got a job almost immediately after arriving with the Four Seasons Hotel, working on a new restaurant concept to transform the old Café, which became TRIO. We met and made friends with wonderful, like-minded people like Marla Camp and Jenna Noel from Edible Austin, who became almost our personal guides to the city and introduced us to Dai Due, Cibo, Boggy Creek Farm and Green Gate Farm. I’ve learned how to be a conscientious hunter, gatherer and supporter of local growers and producers. I’m getting more balance in my work and personal life, too. Six years after moving here, we opened our family restaurant, LENOIR, with a lot of help from our friends and family. One year in, I have the benefit of looking back and saying the decision to move to Austin was maybe serendipitous, and I feel a lot of pride in being a Texan. P h oto g r a p h y bY w y n n m y er s



FARM 1900 University Avenue 路 atx TheCarillonRestaurant.com 404.3655 Facebook / The CarillonRestaurant Twitter@CarillonAustin

2 TABLE



MAY Calendars arts & entertainment

Entertainment Calendar Music Metric

May 1, 7pm Stubb's Jewel

May 1, 8pm ACL Live at the Moody Theater Jimmy Buffett and the coral reefer Band

May 2, 7pm Circuit of the Americas

Javier Chaparro & salud

May 2, 7:30pm The Long Center

Quattro Mani

May 3-4, 8pm The Long Center Whitman

May3, 9:30pm Lamberts Rodriguez

May 4, 8pm Frank Erwin Center Lone Star Jam

Tokyo Story

Pachanga Latino Music Festival

Life Architecturally, 2011

May 10, 7pm Cedar Park Center

May 10-11 Fiesta Gardens

Dale Earnhardt Jr. Jr.

The Makioka Sisters

May 11, 8pm The Parish

Sara Bareilles

May 17, 8pm The Parish

The Fab Four

May 18, 8pm The Paramount Theater Dave Matthews Band

May 21, 7pm Circuit of the Americas Taylor Swift

May 21, 7pm Frank Erwin Center Lyle Lovett & Robert Earl Keen

May 21-22, 8pm The Paramount Theater

Jason Aldean

An evening with Soundgarden

Jim James

May 5 ACL Live at the Moody Theater Phoenix

May 6 ACL Live at the Moody Theater DIana Krall

May 7 ACL Live at the Moody Theater

may 2013 tribeza.com

May 21, 7-9pm The Marchesa Hall and Theatre May 22, 8pm AMOA-Arthouse at the Jones Center

May 4-5 The LBJ Lawn

May 5, 5:30pm Circuit of the Americas

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The Killers

May 25, 8pm Austin Music Hall

Film Zazie Dans Le Metro

May 14, 7-9pm The Marchesa Hall and Theatre The First Grader

May 18, 8pm Stateside at the Paramount

May 28, 7-9pm The Marchesa Hall and Theatre

Theatre Trouble Puppet Theatre

May 2-25 Salvage Vanguard Theater The Winter's Tale

May 2-26 Hillside Theatre in Zilker Park Priscilla Queen of the Dessert

May 8-12 Bass Concert Hall

Ballet Austin's Giselle

May 10-12 The Long Center Harvey

May 15-June 16 ZACH Theatre Austin Latino New Play Festival

May 16-18 The Long Center

Twelve Angry Men

May 16-June 9 The City Theatre

Blue Lapis Light Heaven Earth One

May 19-26 The Long Center

Comedy Joey Diaz

May 2-4 Cap City Comedy Club Chris tucker

May 3, 7pm Bass Concert Hall Tom Segura

May 8-11 Cap City Comedy Club Bert Kreischer

May 23-25 Cap City Comedy Club Ross Matthews

May 30, 8pm The Paramount Theatre

Children Casa Kids Gold Classic

May 6, 2pm The Hills Country Club

Scooby-doo Live! Musical Mysteries

May 19 Frank Erwin Center Peter Pan

May 23-24 Stateside at the Paramount What's the Story, Steve?

Saturdays in May ColdTowne Theater

Other St. David's Foundation's Toast of The TOwn

Through May 18 The Driskill Hotel

MOther and Me Tea

May 4, 12:30-3pm Green Pastures

Insanely Good Lunch

May 4, 1-3pm AMOA-Arthouse at the Jones Center Perfectly Pink Party

May 4, 5:30-10:30pm Shoal Crossing

Heart BalL of Austin

May 4, 6-11pm Hilton Austin

GalaDelMuseoArtey Glamour

May 5, 6-9pm Four Seasons Hotel Farm to Plate

May 9, 6:30pm Barr Mansion

Paramount & Stateside theatres' Anniversary Gala

May 11, 6pm The Paramount Theatre

Emancipet's 14th Anniversary Luncheon

May 13, 11:30am-1pm Four Seasons Hotel Art Bra Austin

May 18, 7-11pm Austin Music Hall

Studio 54klift Fundraiser

May 18, 9pm-12am ZACH Theatre

In Conversation: Oliver Stone

May 24, 7:30pm The Paramount Theatre


Get FREE Official Visitor Info Kit

Culinary

“Zauber”

that goes far beyond Bier und Brats. If you come to Fredericksburg anticipating authentic German cuisine, we will not disappoint. But further exploration will reveal restaurateurs that offer decidedly more diverse menus. Escolar and lobster. Seared duck breast with ginger/orange glaze. Tender steaks. And very naughty desserts. All complemented by award-winning cabernets, tempranillos, viogniers and rieslings from our numerous vineyards and wineries. Incidentally, “Zauber” is the German word for “magic.” Guten Appetit. H VisitFredericksburgTX.com | 866 997 3600


arts & entertainment

C A l e n da r s

Arts Calendar Everything Reception, 7-10pm Through May 26

May 4 wally workman gallery

Carol Dawson: The Great Piece of Turf Reception, 6-8pm Through May 25 May 5 Red Space Gallery

Glenn Twiggs: Nuclear Fiction Artist's Talk, 5-6:30pm May 10 Grayduck Gallery

Red Left Blue RIght Reception, 7-9pm Through June 16

may 18 Yard Dog Art Gallery

Scott Griffin Through June 14

Lora Reynolds Gallery

Graham Dolphin Through July 20

Ongoing AMOA-Arthouse At the jones Center

Jaakko Pallasvuo Through May 19 Nicolas Provost Through June 9 O Século

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Pinaree Sanpitak: Temporary Insanity Seher Shah: Constructed Landscapes Through June 30 Blanton Museum of Art

Restoration and Revelation Through May 5 Through the Eyes of Texas Through May 19 Gallery Shoal Creek

Greg Kreutz, Jennifer Bell & Tony Saladino Through May 25 Harry Ransom Center

Arnold Newman: Masterclass Through May 12 Lora Reynolds Gallery

Richard Foster and Ewan Gibbs Through May 11 MExic-arte

Masked: Changing Identities Unmasked: Lucha Libre Through May 25 Russell Collection Fine Art

Court Lurie: Nexus Through May 5

Visual Arts Center

MFA Studio Art Exhibition Through May 11 West Austin Studio Tour

Through May 5

Women and Their Work

Kelly O'Connor: Last Resort Through May 9

At the Blanton Museum, Through the Eyes of Texas offers a look back at timeless pieces of art and the university alumni who loved them.

EVENT P I C K

Through the Eyes of Texas: Masterworks from Alumni Collections Blanton Museum of Art 200 E. Martin Luther King Blvd. blantonmuseum.org Through May 19

I

t's easy to lose yourself in the Blanton Museum of Art's latest exhibition, Through the Eyes of Texas: Masterworks from Alumni Collections. On display through May 19, the presentation features extraordinary works that span centuries and genres, all curated from the private collections of University of Texas at Austin alumni. Featuring iconic masterpieces, ancient artifacts and mixed media installments, the exhibition is as diverse as the collectors who brought it to life. "Through the Eyes of Texas provides an opportunity for visitors to see a range of works that are rarely on public display and many that are outside the scope of our collection," says Simone Wicha, Director of the Blanton Museum. "One piece after another is stunning, captivating and thought-provoking." From a Monet Water Lillies painting and costume designs for the Ballets Russes to a funeral urn dating back to the Liao Dynasty, each piece has a story of its own— not only of its maker but also of the alumnus who found and acquired it. Against a backdrop of a second-century Roman bust and paintings by Rousseau and Picasso, Through the Eyes of Texas is especially compelling when we imagine the people who uncovered that Rauschenberg canvas or a sliver of Mayan flint and brought these works into their homes. "Many of the alumni whose works are on display are leaders in their respective fields but were not art majors—they're lawyers, businessmen and scientists—yet they've all chosen to have art as part of their lives," Wicha says. "Through the exhibition, you see the impact that these alumni are having both on their communities and on the larger cultural landscape." For more information about Through the Eyes of Texas: Masterworks from Alumni Collections, visit blantonmuseum.org. M. blam

image courtesy of the bl anton museum .

may 3 gallery black lagoon



museums & galleries

Art Spaces Museums Austin Children’s Museum

201 Colorado St. (512) 472 2499 Hours: Tu 10–5, W 10–8, Th–Sa 10–5, Su 12–5 austinkids.org AMOA-Arthouse The Jones Center

700 Congress Ave. (512) 453 5312 Hours: W 12-11, Th-Sa 12-9, Su 12-5 arthousetexas.org

artist spotlight

Jessica Halonen

A

s we look to the future of modern medicine, an ethical debate about genetic engineering has begun around the world—and Jessica Halonen has placed her art at the center of the conversation. Her recent project, Rx Garden, explores historical and contemporary practices of pharmaceutical production, reimagining the vocabulary of biotechnology in aesthetic terms. At once enchanting and uneasy, Rx Garden evokes Halonen's fascination with the juxtaposition of the natural and the technological. In "Sticky Ends," for example, wiry maple and birch branches twist and entwine in a double helix, joined together by synthetically-colored resin. The title refers to the controversial practice of gene splicing, used to grow various proteins to be harvested for drug production, but the piece itself—like much of the project— resists simple ethical judgment. Equally striking are the two-dimensional representations of plant-based pharmaceuticals as vivid gouache paintings. From "Etoposide Phosphate" to "VePesid"—both named for cancer-fighting drugs—each surreal piece fuses geometric shapes with natural ones, a beautiful, yet unsettling reminder of the way in which nature may be commoditized and made artificial. For more information about Jessica Halonen and her work, visit jessicahalonen.com. Her work is on display at AMOA-Arthouse at Laguna Gloria until May 26. M. Blam

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AMOA-Arthouse Laguna Gloria

3809 W. 35th St. (512) 458 8191 Driscoll Villa hours: Tu–W 12-4, Th-Su 10–4 Grounds hours: M–Sa 9–5, Su 10–5 amoa.org Blanton Museum of Art

French Legation Museum

802 San Marcos St. (512) 472 8180 Hours: Tu–Su 1–5 frenchlegationmuseum.org George Washington Carver Museum

1165 Angelina St. (512) 974 4926 Hours: M–Th 10–9, F 10–5:30, Sa 10–4 ci.austin.tx.us/carver Harry Ransom Center

300 E. 21st St. (512) 471 8944 Hours: Tu–W 10–5, Th 10–7, F 10–5, Sa–Su 12–5 hrc.utexas.edu LBJ Library and Museum

2313 Red River St. (512) 721 0200 Hours: M–Su 9–5 lbjlibrary.org

Mexic–Arte Museum

200 E. MLK Jr. Blvd. (512) 471 7324 Hours: Tu– F 10–5, Sa 11–5, Su 1–5 blantonmuseum.org

419 Congress Ave. (512) 480 9373 Hours: M–Th 10–6,  F–Sa 10–5, Su 12–5 mexic–artemuseum.org

The Bob Bullock Texas State History Museum

O. Henry Museum

1800 Congress Ave. (512) 936 8746 Hours: M–Sa 9–6, Su 12–6 thestoryoftexas.com Elisabet Ney Museum

304 E. 44th St. (512) 458 2255 Hours: W–Sa 10–5, Su 12–5 ci.austin.tx.us/elisabetney

409 E. 5th St. (512) 472 1903 Hours: W–Su 12–5

Umlauf Sculpture Garden & Museum

605 Robert E. Lee Rd. (512) 445 5582 Hours: W–F 10–4:30, Sa–Su 1–4:30 umlaufsculpture.org

image courtesy of jessica halonen

arts & entertainment


arts & entertainment

Galleries Art on 5th

1501 W. 5th St. (512) 481 1111 Hours: M–Sa 10–6 arton5th.com The Art Gallery at John-William Interiors

3010 W. Anderson Ln. (512) 451 5511 Hours: M–Sa 10–6, Su 12–5 jwinteriors.com Artworks Gallery

1214 W. 6th St. (512) 472 1550 Hours: M–Sa 10–5 artworksaustin.com

Austin Art Garage

2200 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. J (512) 351-5934 Hours: Tu–Sa 11–6, Su 12–5 austinartgarage.com Austin Art Space Gallery and Studios

7739 North Cross Dr., Ste. Q (512) 771 2868 Hours: F–Sa 11–6 austinartspace.com capital fine art

1214 W. 6th St. (512) 628 1214 Hours: M-Sa 10-5 capitalfineart.com champion

800 Brazos St. (512) 354 1035 By Appt. Only championcontemporary.com Creative Research Laboratory

2832 E. MLK Jr. Blvd. (512) 322 2099 Hours: Tu–Sa 12–5 uts.cc.utexas.edu/~crlab

Davis Gallery

837 W. 12th St. (512) 477 4929 Hours: M–F 10–6, Sa 10–4 davisgalleryaustin.com Flatbed Press

2830 E. MLK Jr. Blvd. (512) 477 9328 Hours: M-F 10-5, Sa 10-3 flatbedpress.com Gallery Black Lagoon

4301-A Guadalupe St. (512) 371 8838 Hours: Sa 1-5 galleryblacklagoon.com Gallery Shoal Creek

2905 San Gabriel St., #101 (512) 454 6671 Hours: Tu–F 11–5, Sa 11–4 galleryshoalcreek.com grayDUCK gallery

608 W. Monroe Dr. (512) 826 5334 Hours: W 11-6, Th 4-8, F-Sa 11-6, Su 12-5 grayduckgallery.com Jean–Marc Fray Gallery

1009 W. 6th St. (512) 457 0077 Hours: M–Sa 10–6 jeanmarcfray.com La Peña

(512) 474 1700 Hours: M–Sa 10-6 lotusasianart.com

Hours: Tu–Sa 11–5 (512) 236 1333 studiotenarts.com

The Nancy Wilson Scanlan Gallery

Testsite

6500 St. Stephen’s Dr. (512) 327 1213 Hours: M-F 9-5 sstx.org Okay Mountain Gallery

1619 E. Cesar Chavez St. Sa 1-5 or by appointment (512) 293 5177 okaymountain.com

Wally Workman Gallery

1202 W. 6th St. (512) 472 7428 Hours: Tu–Sa 10–5 wallyworkman.com

Women & Their Work

1118 W. 6th St. (512) 472 1831 Hours: M-Sa 10-5, Su 12-4

1710 Lavaca St. (512) 477 1064 Hours: M–F 10–6, Sa 12–5 womenandtheirwork.org

Pro–Jex Gallery

Yard Dog

Positive Images

1710 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. C (512) 472 7707 Hours: M–F 10–6, Sa 12–4 Red Space Gallery

1203 W. 49th St. By appointment only redspacegallery.com

Russell Collection Fine Art

1137 W. 6th St. (512) 478 4440 Hours: Tu–Sa 10–6 russell–collection.com

227 Congress Ave., #300 (512) 477 6007 Hours: M-F 8-5, Sa 8-3 lapena–austin.org

sofa

Lora Reynolds Gallery

Stephen L. Clark Gallery

1319 Rosewood Ave. By appointment only sofagallerytx.com

360 Nueces St., #50 (512) 215 4965 Hours: W-Sa 11-6 lorareynolds.com

1101 W. 6th St. (512) 477 0828 Hours: Tu–Sa 10–4 stephenlclarkgallery.com

Lotus Gallery

studio 10

1009 W. 6th St., #101

502 W. 33rd St. (512) 453 3199 By Appt. Only fluentcollab.org

1011 West Lynn

1510 S. Congress Ave. (512) 912 1613 Hours: M–F 11–5, Sa 11–6, Su 12–5 yarddog.com

Alternative Spaces ARTPOST: The Center for Creative Expression

4704 E. Cesar Chavez St. artpostaustin.com Austin Presence

330 Bee Cave Rd., #700 (512) 306 9636 Hours: Tu–F 10–6, Sa 10–4 austinpresence.com Bay6 Gallery & Studios

5305 Bolm Rd. (512) 553 3849 By appointment only bay6studios.com

M u s e u m s & Ga l l e r i e s

Big Medium

5305 Bolm Rd., #12 (512) 939 6665 bigmedium.org Clarksville Pottery & Galleries

4001 N. Lamar Blvd., #550 (512) 454 9079 Hours: M-Sa 11-6, Su 1-4 Co-Lab Project Space

613 Allen St. (512) 300 8217 By appointment only colabspace.org farewell Books

913 E. Cesar Chavez St. (512) 476 DOMY Hours: Mon-Sa 12–8, Su 12–7 domystore.com Julia C. Butridge Gallery

1110 Barton Springs Rd. (512) 974 4025 Hours: M–Th 10–9:30, F 10–5:30, Sa 10–4 ci.austin.tx.us/ dougherty/gallery.htm Pump Project Art Complex

702 Shady Ln. (512) 351 8571 pumpproject.org

Quattro Gallery

12971 Pond Springs Rd. (512) 219 3150 Hours: M–Tu 10–3, W–Sa 11–4 quattrogallery.com Roi James

Space 12

3121 E. 12th St. (512) 524 7128 T-F 10-5 space12.org

Fredericksburg AGAVE GALLERY

208 E. San Antonio St. Hours: M-Sa 10-5 (830) 990 1727 agavegallery.com ARTISANS AT ROCKY HILL

234 W. Main St. (830) 990 8160 Hours: M-Sa 10-5:30, Su 11-3 artisansatrockyhill.com FREDERICKSBURG ART GALLERY

314 E. Main St. (830) 990 2707 Hours: M-Sa 10-5:30, Su 12-5 fbartgallery.com INSIGHT GALLERY

214 W. Main St. (830) 997 9920 Hours: Tu-Sa 10-5:30 insightgallery.com WHISTLE PIK

425 E. Main St. (830) 990 8151 Hours: M-Sa 10-5 To have your gallery considered for listing in the Arts Guide, please send a request to events @tribeza.com.

3620 Bee Cave Rd., Ste. C (512) 970 3471 By appointment only roijames.com

tribeza.com

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2013

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things we love

Afield On a blustery day in Wimberly, Jesse Griffiths set out with photographer Jody Horton to hunt wild turkey. Within seconds, Griffiths had shot two birds, and after an hour, they had a deer, too. "It was a perfect combination of luck, perseverance and a little skill, which is exactly what hunting and fishing are all about," he says. "It's a labor of love." This respect for the hunt underlies his book, Afield, which earned the author a James Beard nomination this year. The volume, however, is less a cookbook than a love letter to sourcing locally, to nature's unpredictability and to the challenges between the field and the plate. With an emphasis on the process, rather than the finished dish, each chapter chronicles Griffiths' adventures, from the initial hunt and catch to the preparation and cooking. Whether readers are novices in the field or skilled hunters and fisherman, Afield is a compelling invitation to deepen our relationships with food and where it comes from: "I want everyone to reclaim hunting and fishing," Griffiths says. "Get to know life and death, and you'll make better choices about food in general, and possibly beyond." For more information about Jesse Griffiths and Afield, visit daidueaustin.net.

Th e a u s t i n f o o d bl o gg e r a llli a n c e c o o kb o o k From Welsh Cakes by an English transplant to Persian stew by an Iranian blogger, the pages of The Austin Food Blogger Alliance Cookbook paint a vibrant portrait of our city's culinary scene. Released last month, the cookbook features essays, stories and recipes from over 70 local members of the Austin Food Blogger Alliance, all celebrating our growing food community. "Community cookbooks become a snapshot of the communities in which the contributors live," cookbook editor and Austin AmericanStatesman food writer Addie Broyles remarks, "and we really wanted to be able to tell the story of Austin food through the eyes of the people who love food enough to start a blog about it." Reflections on Austin's craft cocktails, canning movement and urban farms accompany a collection of a hundred recipes that together evoke the diversity of our capital city. "Our food scene is growing by leaps and bounds every year, and those of us who live here all experience it differently," Broyles says. "I hope readers can see themselves in some of the bloggers and get some fun recipes that showcase Austin's diverse tastes while they're at it." For more information about the Austin Food Blogger Alliance and its cookbook, visit austinfoodbloggers.org.

Things We Love

Ti p s y T e x a n : S p i r i t s a n d c o ck ta il s f r o m t h e l o n e s ta r s tat e For bartender David Alan, the art of the craft cocktail is an imbiber's adventure, an exploration of fresh ingredients and local spirits. Next month, he'll toast to the drinks and stories he's discovered across Texas with his new recipe book, Tipsy Texan: Spirits and Cocktails from the Lone Star State—the first to highlight Texas' cocktail scene. Pairing colorful recipes with history and folklore, the book is perfect for "the adventurous home bartender," who'll find ample flavor in its pages. Tipsy Texan offers a suite of classic recipes with a distinctly Texas twist, complete with drinks like Alan's Fig Daiquiri, Persimmon Margarita and the Corpse Reviver 3000, made with Paula's Texas Orange and Tenneyson Absinthe. "Learning how to make and enjoy drinks is an adventure," Alan says. "Readers should use this book in the way they would use a cookbook—it's okay to follow the recipe verbatim or use it as a jumping-off point for their own inspiration." Tipsy Texan: Spirits and Cocktails from the Lone Star State is available for pre-order on Amazon.com and will be released on June 11. David Alan offers Tipsy Texan classes throughout the year. For more information, visit tipsytexan.com. L. Siva

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Afield photo courtesy of Welcome books; tipsy texan photo courtesy of andrews mcmeel publishing.

style



C AROL D AW S ON The Great Piece of Turf

Wal ly Workman Gal ler y 1202 West Si x th Street Aust in, Tex as 78703 w w w.wal ly workman.com 512.472.7428 Zilker Petunias, watercolor, 27x51 inches

AUSTIN’S OWN SHOWR OOM WITH AN EXCEPTIONAL EYE FOR SOPHISTICATED, CHIC FURNISHINGS. 1 5 1 2 W. 3 5 T H S T . C U T O F F, S U I T E 1 0 0 | 5 1 2 . 2 8 4 . 9 7 3 2 | W E N D O W F I N E L I V I N G . C O M



Three Austin chefs pay tribute to the c u l i n a ry l eg e n d s w h o i n s p i r e t h e m . 60

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Iconic chefs are like a pantheon of demigods, striding through kitchens and into a rich tradition of culinary lore. There are stories, for example, of HervÊ This, the man who unboiled an egg, and of Marco Pierre White, who reduced Gordon Ramsay to tears—but behind the legends are the men and women who have shaped cuisine for the modern plate, who have reclaimed their art with pride. To honor these unforgettable chefs, we invited three of their local culinary descendents to share their stories and recipes: Andrew Francisco of Mettle turned to mentor Thomas Keller, while Laura Sawicki of La Condesa and Sway looked to Julia Child, and Ned Elliott of Foreign and Domestic paid homage to Alain Ducasse. As they remember their kitchen icons, these Austin chefs celebrate a colorful culinary legacy. tribeza.com

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l a u r a s a w i c k i of La Condesa & Sway J u l i a C h i l d’ s B r i o c h e Ta r t

According to legend, there is an episode of Julia Child’s Baking Series in which Julia Child takes a bite of Nancy Silverton’s decadent brioche tart. Tears stream down her cheeks as she looks into the camera and declares, “It’s a dessert to cry over. This is the best dessert I’ve ever eaten.” It’s stories like this that inspire Laura Sawicki, the Food & Wine-lauded pastry chef at La Condesa and Sway. “I love when food has such a beautiful story behind it,” she says. “And above anything else, this tart is absolutely delicious.” For her twist on Julia Child’s famous dessert, Sawicki created a crust of buttery brioche dough, filled it with a coconut cream and dusted it with sugar. Afterward, she’ll finish the tart with a fruit compote and a scoop of bright marigold ice cream. “It’s interactive—you can take the leftover brioche and run it through the ice cream and scoop up all your fruit,” she observes. “It’s definitely not a traditional tart by any stretch of the imagination.” Of course, Child herself was no traditional cook either: “We all grew up watching Julia Child,” Sawicki says, as she spoons lemon-macerated strawberries onto a crispy layer of sugar. “She made the profession of cooking accessible to women and introduced French cuisine to everyone. She’s absolutely remarkable and adorable—what’s not to love about her?” Like her predecessor half a century ago, Sawicki looks to the craft of pastry as a way to connect with others, whether they’re in their homes or working the line at the back of the house. “It’s about sharing the love we have not only through food, but also through education,” she says, noting her hands-on style of teaching in the kitchen. “Dessert is something that everyone can relate to on a very nostalgic level—it’s a really wonderful, special way of bringing community together, of breaking bread with friends and family.” For more information about Laura Sawicki, visit lacondesa. com and swayaustin.com.

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Pastry Chef Laura Sawicki (pictured) counts her grandmother foremost among her kitchen heroes. “She was an absolute inspiration, and everything she made was extraordinary,” Sawicki says, remembering her grandmother’s secret apple strudel recipe. At right is the brioche tart that made Julia Child cry—and Sawicki hopes to evoke the same passion in her own guests. “It’s fun to see the looks on their faces, the eyes rolling back, the fingers pointing at the food,” she says. “The feeling I get when someone is enjoying my food is amazing.” tribeza.com

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Though Chef Ned Elliott has worked in some of the country’s finest kitchens, from ADNY to Per Se, his fondest food memories are ones spent at home with his two mothers. “I grew up ramp hunting with my family in Ohio,” he says. Today, he’ll preserve the beautiful simplicity of the vegetable in a classic ramp risotto for spring.

n e d e l l i o T t of Foreign & Domestic |

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Alain Ducasse ’s Poached Chicken

One morning at Foreign & Domestic, Chef Ned Elliott is pan-roasting a

oven. “You have to handle an ingredient correctly and with enough esteem,

whole chicken to the bold sounds of Thin Lizzy’s Jailbreak. Studded with

whether it’s a beet or a baby goat or a lamb, to be able to show it in different

truffles and rich with the flavors of sherry vinegar, shallots and herbs,

aspects.”

the dish is a fitting homage to his mentor, Alain Ducasse, owner of the

It’s been nearly a decade since Elliott worked the line at Alain

now-shuttered Alain Ducasse at Essex House. “He searched far and wide

Ducasse, but for the nose-to-tail chef, the pleasure of creating a deli-

for the best ingredients and spared no expense for product,” Elliott re-

cious plate is unforgettable. “The one thing that gives me the rush of

members of the Monégasque chef, who has almost two dozen Michelin

playing sports is being in the kitchen,” he says. “It’s instant gratifica-

stars under his belt. “His mantra is attention to detail.”

tion—you know if you won or lost at the end of the night.” That play-

It’s the same mantra that now drives Elliott at Foreign & Domestic,

ful, uninhibited quality has followed Elliott into the kitchen, where he

where he strives to imagine the full potential of each ingredient—his beet

continues to push the scope of his cuisine. “It’s food,” Elliott adds. “Let’s not

salad, for example, features poached beets, a beet puree, beet chips and

take it so seriously. Let’s have fun and learn from our mistakes and keep

beets cooked in caramel. “A big thing for Chef Ducasse is showing an in-

growing every day.” For more information about Ned Elliott and Foreign &

gredient in different manners,” he says, as he transfers the chicken to the

Domestic, visit fndaustin.com.

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Fragrant with truffles and herbs, this Dewberry Hills chicken is served with baby vegetables from Johnson’s Backyard Garden. “We’re here to provide good, solid food that’s sourced as thoughtfully as possible,” Elliott says. tribeza.com

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Garnished with beautiful herbs grown in Chef Francisco’s urban garden, this salmon tartare reimagines Thomas Keller’s signature dish with a global perspective.

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A n d r e w F r a n c i s c o of Mettle T h o m a s K e l l e r ’ s S a l m o n Ta r ta r e

After hanging his toque in kitchens across the city, Chef Andrew Francisco is exploring a culinary landscape of his own at Mettle. For the upcoming East Austin eatery, helmed by Bridget Dunlap, the chef took inspiration from classic bistro fare—a cuisine no one does better, he says, than the Michelin-starred Thomas Keller. A veteran of The French Laundry in Yountville, California, Francisco paid tribute to his mentor with a lush salmon tartare atop crisp flatbread, drizzled with vanilla vinaigrette and garnished with a harvest of fresh herbs, Thai chilies and salmon roe. “Thomas Keller taught me to respect ingredients,” he says. “He kept it honest, getting the right ones and letting them speak for themselves.” Francisco’s tartare is a variation on Keller’s famous amuse-bouche, still served today at The French Laundry in a baked cornet and topped with crème fraîche and red onions. Where Keller’s tartare is distinctly French, however, Francisco draws from memories of Malaysia and his own culinary perspective. “One of the things Keller taught me was to put your personality into your food and take that risk,” Francisco says. “It isn’t really about how you use salt or who has better knife skills— it comes down to what you think is delicious.” Layering purple oxalis, mint and nasturtium leaves like thoughtful brushstrokes on the tartare’s canvas, Francisco builds flavor profiles from the top down. “That’s my new thing—the food seasons itself as you eat it,” he remarks. “Every bite is different, from a bit of mint and chili to a sweeter spoonful of vanilla and nasturtium.” Alongside an inviting menu of reinvented bistro classics, like fish and butternut squash or a cheeseburger with avocado and housemade lardo, the tartare is a nod to Keller’s whimsical culinary aesthetic. “Keller reminded us how to have fun with food,” Francisco says, “and that’s what we’re trying to do at Mettle—create a fun, delicious, unpretentious restaurant. I want people to walk away knowing we truly love what we do.” For more information about Chef Andrew Francisco and Mettle, visit dunlapatx.com. tribeza.com

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Restaurateur Larry McGuire (pictured right) brings new life to Jeffrey’s, a Clarksville icon founded almost four decades ago by Ron and Peggy Weiss (left).

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the return of

Jeffrey’s By S. Kirk Walsh | Photography by LeAnn Mueller

Old and new

come together in the anticipated re-opening of one

of Austin’s most extraordinary fine dining institutions.


“Guests came with expectations—and we did our best to perform.” - Ron Weiss hum. A large, metallic ventilation hose snakes across the dusty barroom floor that overlooks the nearby intersection of West Lynn and Twelfth Street. Changes to the building are also visible on its exterior: A new coat of olive paint now covers the former patina green. Bordering Twelfth Street, there’s a garden bed with thyme, basil and starter tomato plants. A small banner for the Austin-based architectural firm A look back at the original Jeffrey’s in the 70s.

A

t the corner of West Lynn and Twelfth Street,

The doors of the “new” Jeffrey’s opened last month, a year after the “old” Jeffrey’s closed. “I think people have digested that the old restaurant is gone,” says McGuire, sitting in his sunlit corner office on the restaurant’s second floor, “and a new thing is coming.”

the pedestrian walk symbol blinks in tandem

Not surprisingly, stories and lore of the old Jeffrey’s are as much a

with the quiet intersection’s traffic light. On the

part of the cultural fabric of Austin as the iconic Amarillo World Head-

nearby corners are a quartet of businesses that

quarters or the famous meetings of Frank Dobie, Roy Bedichek and

have remained unchanged for more than three

Walter Prescott Webb at Barton Springs. In 1975, Jeffrey Weinberger

decades—the mortar-and-pestle sign of Nau’s

and Peggy and Ron Weiss joined forces to lease the property, which was

Enfield Drug, the familiar red glow of Anthony’s

the first strip mall in Austin and housed a florist, liquor store and an

Laundry & Dry Cleaners, the circular sign for Sledd Nursery and the

ice cream shop. Initially, the team just leased and renovated the florist

understated, elegant façade of Jeffrey’s on the northwest corner.

shop before expanding to fill the entire building. “We got involved ac-

During recent months, as most residents of the Clarksville neigh-

cidentally,” Ron Weiss explains about Weinberger’s proposal to open a

borhood and the city of Austin know, Jeffrey’s has been undergoing

restaurant in Austin. “We didn’t have a master plan.” It wasn’t before

changes ever since Larry McGuire and his restaurant group, McGuire

long that Jeffrey’s built a solid reputation as the best restaurant for fine

Moorman Hospitality, purchased the storied establishment. (Over the

dining in the city—and quickly became the go-to place for both special

past six years, the group has opened six restaurants, each with a differ-

occasions and casual get-togethers. Regular customers included Holly-

ent concept, including Elizabeth Street Café, Perla’s Seafood & Oyster

wood stars, politicians, athletes, musicians and nearby residents of the

Bar and Lamberts Downtown Barbecue.)

Clarksville neighborhood. “A great mixture of people were drawn to be-

The interior of the 1930’s building has been gutted. Electric saws

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Clayton & Little hangs from one of the slate-gray awnings.

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ing there,” remembers longtime customer Kay Rogers. “You would look


Clockwise from top: Jeffrey’s Chef de Cuisine, Josh Hines, crafts a menu of classic fine dining cuisine, inspired by the likes of Alice Waters; founders Jeffrey Weinberger (right) and Ron Weiss (left) in the restaurant doorway, soon after opening; the original flower shop that would become Jeffrey’s in 1975.

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Jeffrey’s Pastry Chef and Baker Alex Manley (pictured left) and Josephine House Chef Jen Jackson (right) have worked in kitchens around the country—and now, they are re-imagining fine dining for the Texas capital.

“We’re trying to recreate the mystique that surrounded Jeffrey’s.” - Larry McGuire over and see someone dressed in soccer shorts next to couples dressed in gowns and tuxedoes.” Over the years, multiple traditions were established: on Halloween, all of the customers and staff arrived at the restaurant in full costume. (One particular Halloween, Chef Emil Vogely dressed up as the Leatherface from The Texas Chain Saw Massacre, complete with a chainsaw fashioned out of a blender motor that provided startling sound effects.) A Clarksville neighbor, Zelma Maxwell, regularly made her Southern fried chicken for the staff and their frequent potluck dinners. “She would come in the kitchen,” Weiss remembers, “and rap her cane on the floor and say, ‘Y’all get to work.’” Fifteen years ago, when Maxwell passed away after a brief fight with pancreatic cancer, Weiss and much of the staff attended her funeral held at Sweet Home Baptist Church, located down the street from Jeffrey’s. Also, veteran waiter Johnny Guffey became a longtime favorite among regular customers. “It was like being the director of a long-running Broadway play,” Weiss says. “Guests came with expectations—and we did our best to perform.” McGuire is intent on returning the restaurant to its original vision while at the same time elevating it to the next level. “We’re trying to recreate the mystique that surrounded Jeffrey’s,” he says. “During recent years, the restaurant industry has gone toward young chefs and small plates. There is a high level of food quality but casual atmospheres. I’m excited about bringing back a serious dining environment that has that neighborhood, clubby feel.” Many details will remain the same—the

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Ryan Smith, the Creative Director of McGuire Moorman Hospitality and head of Jeffrey’s Uniforms and Music Programming departments, models a server’s elegant pajama jacket. tribeza.com

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Joe Holm, Project Manager and Designer at McGuire Moorman Hospitality, models Jeffrey’s valet uniform.

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multiple-room configuration providing intimate dining for guests, the

de Cuisine Josh Hines, formerly of Lamberts and Starlite; Josephine

private table in the wine cellar, the separate baking kitchen (with up-

House Chef Jen Jackson, previously at Francis in San Francisco; Pastry

dated equipment). As with the earlier incarnation of Jeffrey’s, guests

Chef and Baker Alexandra Manley, formerly of Maiya’s in Marfa, as

will have their favorite spots where they dine for special occasions, like

well as Lamberts and Elizabeth Street Café; and Cathy Strange, who

birthdays and anniversaries. “I love traditions like that,” says McGuire.

will oversee the cheese program.

In regards to the cuisine, McGuire explains that it will be recogniz-

“Overall, I want it to be a very well-rounded, curated experience for

able as classic fine dining with creative inspiration from some of today’s

people,” says McGuire. “Our restaurants shouldn’t be just about the

most respected chefs, such as Alice Waters and Wolfgang Puck. Steak

food, the service or the atmosphere. It’s about everything going togeth-

will play a starring role on the menu, with dry-aged beef provided by

er in a thoughtful way that brings perspective on how you eat.”

Texas ranchers, including Branch Ranch and Heartbrand Beef. Mem-

Back in 1975, Weinberger and the Weisses sparked something of a

bers of McGuire’s cooking team for Jeffrey’s and Josephine House (the

revolution with the opening of Jeffrey’s in Austin. Here, on the time-

neighboring restaurant with a more casual dining environment, which

less corner of West Lynn and Twelfth Street, McGuire and his team are

opened three months ago and offers rustic fare emphasizing local in-

primed to set another revolution of sorts into motion by raising the bar

gredients) include: Chef and Project Manager Rebecca Meeker; Chef

of fine dining, once again, in the capital of Texas.

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At Jeffrey’s, style and cuisine go hand-in-hand to create a thoughtful dining experience. This sleek valet uniform, modeled by Project Manager and Designer Joe Holm, was custom designed by Matthew Herman of Zac Posen.

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ph o t o gr a ph s b y jett butler

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The brand identity system for Jeffrey’s i s Clarksville. We walked the neighborhood collecting plants, leaves and blossoms and stippled each one by hand in the studio. Every piece of the Jeffrey’s identity, from uniforms to coasters, gets different art, paired with calligraphic scripts and typography: a post oak leaf on the blazer, a Mexican sycamore on a coaster, an acorn on the business card, etc. All in gold, patriot blue, silver and cream. A de facto “monogram” emerged in the process—a stylized post oak leaf with establishment dates—which finds it way into the exterior signs, plates and butter stamps. —Jett Butler of FÖDA may 2013 tribeza.com


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scrumptious / style

T h e c o l o r s o f s p r i n g i n s p i r e d b y d e l e c ta b l e d e s s e r t s . p h ot o g r a p h y b y l e a n n m u e l l e r / f o o d + p r o p s t y l i n g b y a n n l o w e / s t y l i n g b y l a u r e n s m i t h f o r d / h a i r b y b r i tta n y b e l l + m a k e u p b y r e b e c c a f e r g u s o n o f j o s e l u i s s a l o n / p r o p s b y l o o t v i n ta g e & s p a r ta n s h ot o n lo c a t i o n a t t h e b o h n h o u s e

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Dress by Lela Rose $2,295, Neiman Marcus / Strawberry cake by bake sale austin.


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Neiman Marcus / Cake by Bake Sale Austin.

$ 1 4 8 / B ag b y R e b e c c a M i n ko f f $ 2 2 5 / a ll ava i l a b l e at

Blo u s e b y J o i e $ 1 4 8 / Bl a z e r b y J o i e $ 2 9 8 / Pa n t s b y D L 1 9 6 1


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Blo u s e $ 9 8 , M a d e w e l l / Pa n t s b y W o m a n $ 1 5 0 , J u l i a n G o l d / N e c k l a c e $ 7 7, C . J a n e / Cake by Bake Sale Austin.

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Cake by Bake Sale Austin.

E a r r i n g s b y K e n d r a S c ot t $ 1 0 0 , C . J a n e /

D r e s s $ 1 6 0 / ava i l a b l e at M a d e w e l l /


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/ a ll ava i l a b l e at N e i m a n M a r c u s / M a c a r o n s b y C e n t r a l M a r k e t .

Blo u s e b y T i b i $ 2 4 5 / Pa n t s b y T i b i $ 3 5 5 / S h o e s b y C h r i s t i a n Lo u b o u t i n $ 1 , 3 9 5


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Dessert by Kyle McKinney of Barley Swine.

D r e s s b y S t e ll a M c C a r t n e y $ 1 ,1 9 5 / B y G e o r g e /

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S w e at e r b y S e s s u n $ 1 1 7 / Pa n t s b y S e s s u n $ 1 4 0 / S a n d a l s $ 9 0 / a ll ava i l a b l e at M a d e w e l l / E a r r i n g s b y K e n d r a S c ot t $ 1 0 0 , C . J a n e / S t r a w b e r r y R h u b a r b

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P i e by Q uac k ’ s . may 2013


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On a beautiful, spring morning, Carmen and Shawn Bliss (pictured) collect fresh eggs from their flock.

For the Love of Food—three culinary adventure seekers share their favorite Austin experiences. 92 may 2013 tribeza.com


By Marisa Riley p h o to g r a p h y b y n i c o l e mla k a r - l i v i n g s to n

Above, Carmen and Shawn Bliss’ New Hampshire White chicken, Peggy (left), makes her home in the “Eggsplorer” (right), a spaceship made from recycled materials.

From blue eggs to a hobbit hole, “funky” doesn’t even begin to describe this coop tour. Austin is famous for celebrating just about anything. From SXSW to the Zilker Kite Festival, there’s a bullet on Austin’s social calendar for everyone. Even—you guessed it—chicken lovers. The Funky Chicken Coop Tour celebrates the beauty of sustainable living in city dwellings and, more importantly, the communities that surround them. But before you jump to conclusions (forget that sketch from Portlandia), keep an open mind and remember: this is why we live in Austin. We make “weird” look cool, although there’s nothing weird about cooking fresh, organic eggs for breakfast in the morning. The fact that they might be blue, though—that’s just cool. If you drove down North Lamar around 10 am on Saturday, March 30, you may have noticed a large crowd at Buck Moore Feed & Pet Supply. The store’s parking lot was transformed into an information center full of vendors showing everything from coop designs to rare breeds of chickens. Like all festivals, parties and ultra-exclusive-super-secret-shows in Austin, this occasion demanded a wristband. Once I grabbed mine, it was straight to the vendor with a pen full of ornamental roosters, hens and what looked like teacup Velociraptors. Enter Susan Lemke, the PR woman for the Funky Chicken Coop Tour. She introduced me to a few of her fowl friends, including the Modern Game Bantams and Old English Game chickens, which could have been Jurassic Park extras.

Passionate about “sharing the chicken love,” Lemke served as my chicken spirit guide for the day. After a brief education on chickens—and convincing myself not to take a docile little Serama rooster home with me—I had the pleasure of meeting Rob Ludlow, owner of BackyardChickens.com. Anyone interested in starting his or her own coop should begin at this online haven for the chicken-inclined, where almost 200,000 chicken enthusiasts offer support throughout the entire process, from hatching chicks to keeping a flock healthy and happy. “Hundreds of thousands of people are realizing the wonderful benefits of raising a small flock of backyard chickens,” Ludlow mentioned. “They’re the pets that make you breakfast!” Armed with a plastic baggy full of dried worms for the chickens and Google Maps, I embarked on my journey. Though Lemke and Ludlow had given me a decent chunk of information on coop-owning, I still had quite a few questions: how does one get started? Are there any benefits besides the eggs? And most importantly, what are people naming their chickens? Coop 11: The Rock Stars and their Hobbit Hole Upon approaching Susan Leibrock’s yard, I knew exactly what I was looking at. It was a chicken coop modeled after a hobbit hole—Bilbo Baggins’ hole, to be exact. As if the coop alone weren’t neat enough, its owner chose to name all of its inhabitants after rock stars. “That is Florence,” Leibrock tribeza.com

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mentioned, pointing to an Ameraucana pecking at wood chips. “That’s Meg White. And then I have Patti Smith. I had a rooster ‘come calling,’ so I let them hang out for a little bit.” Last month, in fact, Patti hatched two chicks: a baby Jack White and an unnamed grey chick who may turn out to be Adele. Leibrock, who serves as the Community Relations Director at the Sustainable Food Center, makes coop-owning look quite glamorous. However, her rationale behind creating it is a different story. “I have been really inspired over the last five years that I’ve worked for the Sustainable Food Center—which is a nonprofit that runs four of our famers markets in town—to keep my own flock,” she said. “And I love eggs; it’s my favorite food!”

Coop 6: The neighborhood pets Ellie Hanlon and her husband moved from Brooklyn to Austin four years ago. Inspired by coops her former neighbors maintained (yes, in Brooklyn!), she was determined to start her own. With the goal of fresh eggs in mind, she got something much more out of owning a coop: pets. “These are all the neighborhood kids,” Hanlon said, pointing to a group of children running through the yard. “They really are like neighborhood pets, and everyone is eagerly waiting for that first egg.” Hanlon and her husband have been caring for their hens since they were one-day-old chicks. “We spent so much time with them, and they get really friendly,” she said. “I think they get sad if people don’t hang out with them!”

Coop 16: The Social Network

Gary and Dani Moss (pictured bottom left) showcase their whimsical chicken coop, nestled in an enchanting garden on Westview Road.

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Paige Hill, Founder and Director of Urban Patchwork—a neighborhood-based, community-run urban agriculture network—had a maze-like coop, which circled around her large garden like a moat. “We believe in a sustainable food supply system, and that includes having your food grown at home,” Hill mentioned while sipping a Bloody Mary. “We want a balanced farm system with plants and animals…they kind of help take care of each other.” The coolest part about it: the network. Through a collective of other coop owners, Hill enjoys support from and shares knowledge with fellow members. “We’re teachers by nature,” she said. “We’re all always happy to teach people!”


Paige Hill, the founder of Urban Patchwork Neighborhood Farms, proudly displays her white Ameraucana chicken. The Cinnamon Queen at her feet has just laid an egg.

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B y l i s a s i va p h o to g r a p h y b y b i ll s alla n s

As line cooks and servers battle for glory, 86’d celebrates the unsung heroes of our culinary community. Behind a restaurant’s kitchen doors, a secret language comes alive. You won’t find this vivid argot of “bubble dancers” and “hockey pucks” anywhere else, because it’s a kind of mythical shorthand heard only over the clamor of pots and pans, a testament to culinary camaraderie. One morning in February, the word of the day at Uchiko was “86’d.” It’s synonymous with pulling a dish off the menu or throwing a rowdy customer out the door—but for the Uchi family, it was a fitting name for a citywide kitchen showdown. Inspired by The Food Network’s Chopped, 86’d featured four competitors from restaurants across the city in the first installment of a monthly series, overseen by Chef Philip Speer. The rules were familiar: three rounds—appetizer, entrée and dessert—and three sets of unknown ingredients. The cook who fell short, of course, would be 86’d. “You guys are what makes the restaurants run every day,” Speer told the competitors at the back of the house. He wasn’t referring to renowned chefs at the helm of local institutions, but rather to their quiet champions, to a promising cast of rising stars. Of the four competitors, three were line cooks—Josh Madden of Swift’s Attic, John

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Hajash of Congress and Ryan Shields of Olive and June— while the fourth, Noah Mayes, was a server at Café Josie. Among Uchiko’s arsenal of stand mixers, circulators and fryers, they stood before four, mysterious paper bags and prepared for battle. Once the timer began, the competitors discovered an unlikely menagerie of ingredients: guava, pepperoni, fingerling potatoes and a bottle of chili paste, the latter a subtle nod to Uchiko’s cuisine. “I immediately thought meat and potatoes,” said Shields, bringing purple fingerlings to a boil on the stove. Meanwhile, a panel of judges, including Speer, John Bates of the Noble Sandwich Co., Diane Dixon of Keeper Collection and Jodi Holzband of Tasty Touring, circled the kitchen, peering over the prep table, as competitors chopped, peeled and diced. To me, the back of the house has always seemed a little like magic, an unseen world of chefs pulling pork belly and scallops from top hats. Even on days like this one, when I am able to step behind the scenes, I can’t help but find it enchanting. It’s here that cooks let loose their endless imagination, here that they pour their hearts out onto the plate—and for the 86’d competitors, the only limit was time. With a technical panache reminiscent of mentor Chef David Bull, Hajash pickled kumquat and fried Brus-

The second round of 86’d competitors, from left to right: Vincent Guerra of Kome, Abby Yates of Swift’s Attic, Brandon Martin of Foreign & Domestic and Drew Shriver of Olive & June.


sels sprouts to pair with roasted potatoes. Across the table, Mayes took the challenge of both frying and roasting the fingerlings, but it was when Madden brought out the butter, milk and nitrous oxide charger that I knew we were in for a no-holds-barred food fight. After 25 minutes, the timer rang, and all hands flew into the air. Below, four striking plates lined the prep table: Shields’ crushed potatoes, Mayes’ take on Spanish papas bravas and Hajash’s roasted potatoes with ponzu vinaigrette. Madden, on the other hand, had put the nitrous oxide charger to use in a chili whipped cream atop a romaine salad of roasted potatoes, plated on the lid of a nabe bowl. Despite his clever presentation, the judges agreed that undercooked potatoes were his undoing, and Madden was the first to be 86’d. It was, however, less like Chopped’s long, disappointing walk, intercut with tearful monologues, and more like a friendly concession, a tip of the hat to his fellow cooks who had shone in the kitchen that morning. Round Two found the three remaining competitors with a daunting bag of Rock Cornish game hen, smoked basmati rice, lotus root and habanero oil, as well as a full half hour to prepare the main course. “They have a whole bird and rice,” Speer noted drily. “They’re going to need those extra five minutes.” Hajash began whisking together a marinade of shallots, lime zest and habanero oil, while Shields tackled the rice, steaming it with lemongrass under a sheet of parchment paper. “When you have only half an hour, you have to be quick, spontaneous,” Shields remarked, “and you try to think about different flavor profiles and how they’re all going to complement the dish.” Soon, the kitchen was thick with the smells of smoky basmati and sharp habanero, but when Mayes spooned a jus of broth and Sapporo over fried Rock Cornish hen, the warm, nostalgic aroma was a foodie’s siren song. “You can tell it’s just part of him,” Speer observed. “He knows how to cook.” Though the other judges agreed, Hajash’s vibrant composition of marinated, pan-seared leg and breasts of hen with minted rice and tamarind glaze won highest marks for its bold, global flavors. “It’s a mix,” Hajash said. “I was thinking Spanish because we had the rice and habanero, but with the tamarind glaze, I went a little Thai.” Shields, however, hung up his apron

Clockwise from top: the judges of the second 86’d competition—Natanya Anderson of Fete & Feast, Chef Philip Speer of Uchi, performer Mandy Lauderdale and Tom Thornton of the Austinist—dig in; calamari with pearl onions and gooseberry for the appetizer round; the mystery ingredients for dessert.

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Abby Yates spoons a jus over her thoughtful plate of shrimp, tangerine, miso and tomatillo; a competitor prepares a calamari appetizer for the judges.

after overcooking the hen, leaving only Hajash and Mayes in the running. For the final round, the two competitors entered Speer’s own territory: dessert. It promised to be a spectacular battle to the finish, because while Hajash cooks with finesse and Mayes with soul, both are dedicated to their craft and fearless in the kitchen. They unpacked their last mystery bags, setting basil seed soda, watercress and ginger on the table. It was a perplexing assortment of ingredients, but when the coconut milk came out, I knew we were having ice cream. Plumes of smoke spilled over the prep table, as Mayes poured liquid nitrogen onto an herbaceous custard of watercress, coconut, mint and basil. “The last time I worked with liquid nitrogen was in high school chemistry,” he said with a wry smile. Meanwhile, Hajash had spread a ginger ice cream base over a Silpat and carefully ladled liquid nitrogen on top. The ice cream froze into a thick sheet, which he then broke into shards, laid atop a decadent pool of Valrhona chocolate and garnished with an almond crumble. “I was surprised by the dessert round, honestly,” Speer said, who had envisioned a classic oeuf à la neige. “The ingredients we chose were not too familiar, but both dishes were complex and well thought out.” Ultimately, however, it was Hajash’s deconstructed take on the ice cream sundae that won the Congress line cook first place that morning. “You can’t deny he reflects the pedigree of the restaurant he comes from—you see it in his technical abilities,” Speer noted. After a thoughtful pause, he added, “and his food just tasted good.” And that’s what 86’d comes down to: good food and great cooks. Unlike Chopped, there are no dramatic scores or voiceovers in the Uchiko kitchen—because 86’d isn’t about thrilling cuts and close-ups. Instead, it’s about a cook, his plate and the people he shares it with: “I hope 86’d creates some camaraderie in the restaurant scene,” Speer said. “And hopefully, it’s got long legs, and we can do this for years to come.”


Chef Christina of Momofuku Milk Bar (pictured) kicks off the evening of sweet treats with her savory pork croissants.

B y m e g a n g i ll e r p h o to g r a p h y b y j o dy h o r to n

It all started on Twitter. Last July, Bill Corbett, the pastry chef at Absinthe in San Francisco, tweeted to his pastry chef friends that he wanted to come to Austin for—you guessed it—a music festival. Corbett’s favorite punk and metal bands were playing Fun Fun Fun Fest (No Means No, Fight Amp), and he had to be here. So goes the story of Austin. Long a destination for musicians, the city has created a booming music industry that has allowed other industries to follow: its “hyperspeed growth,” as Uchi/Uchiko pastry chef Philip Speer calls it, has made it into a national food destination. “Austin is one of those places that has a soul,” says Michael Laiskonis, the former executive pastry chef of Le Bernardin. Laiskonis, Corbett and other well-known national pastry chefs like Christina Tosi from Momofuku Milk Bar had killed with dessert last year in New York for a fundraiser benefiting Share Our Strength, and over Twitter, they quickly hatched a plan to come to Austin. Ned Elliott, the co-owner and chef at Foreign and Domestic who has a self-professed sweet tooth, immediately tweeted to Corbett, “Dude come down and do a guest spot one night!! You can crash on my couch!!” On November 5, eight chefs gathered at Foreign and Domestic for the second Killed by Dessert fundraiser. Before dinner, the chefs shared savory appetizers like Tosi’s Cubano pork croissant and a corn panna cotta topped with a duck confit fritter from the Carillon’s Plinio Sandalio. The dinner itself started out savory too, with a nice, light scotch egg: two fresh yolks wrapped in pulled pork, bacon hash and caramelized onions in a panko-fried crust.

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Though it was excellent, everyone’s plate remained pretty much untouched—we were here to eat some sweets. So let’s talk dessert. The night was a whirlwind. It started with Speer’s adventurous olive gelato topped with delicate olive powder. He plated it with hazelnut crumbs, addictively crunchy candied olive and a dab of chocolate ganache. “I pushed the envelope with mixing savory and sweet more than I would at the restaurants,” he said. The flavor combinations made his dish one of the highlights of the night. Tosi also pushed the boundaries of dessert. “I like the funk of bleu cheese,” she told the crowd. She paired Houston’s Hopelessly blue cheese with a salty pumpkin ganache and topped it with a simple pear sorbet. And no Tosi dessert is complete without her famous cornflake crunch, which she made highbrow by plating it artfully alongside the ganache. The crowd favorite sounded just as unusual but actually tasted comfortingly familiar. Corbett’s dessert was called “Root Down,” after—of course—a Beastie Boys song. He described it as a “parsnip cake with milk jam, iced buttermilk, cacao nib, wood sorrel.” That translated to a gingery spice cake on top of a caramel sauce, with buttermilk ice cream, crunchy cacao nibs and tiny wood sorrel leaves. Corbett got the buttermilk from his friends’ restaurant, Rich Table, which makes its own butters (“The homesteading movement is going to be the next big thing,” he told me). The sour ice cream acted like the cream cheese icing on a traditional carrot cake, and you almost expected to find raisins in the deceptively homestyle dessert. That seemed to be the theme of the night. The first Killed by Dessert in New York was based on “some of our favorite things.” This time around, the pastry chefs got to explore desserts they’ve always wanted to make. Corbett had made a parsnip cake at WD50, but he always wanted to go further with the concept. Similarly, at Le Bernadin, Laiskonis had made the classic French dessert Mont Blanc for years but wanted to play it up. For his entrée, he created a pain de genes

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(think almond sponge cake) with a light chestnut cream, subtly coconut sorbet and a pear sphere (“Eat the sphere in one bite,” coached Texas Monthly’s Pat Sharpe). But Lincoln Carson, the corporate pastry chef at Michael Mina’s restaurants, had the biggest confession of all. “I don’t want to admit this in public,” he said, “but I like tiramisu.” His dessert was the Italian classic, gussied up with a surprising texture. The crunchy-looking cakes were instead soft and giving, and the creamy rounds of white chocolate and mascarpone finished the night famously, as did the edible coffee paper. But where was good old chocolate? “Pastry chefs turn up their noses at chocolate because it’s such a crowd pleaser,” said Callie Speer, pastry chef at Swift’s Attic and wife of Philip Speer. “They think it’s cheating.” Yet several chefs declared that chocolate candy bars were some of their favorite desserts, especially growing up. Corbett, who is from Canada, loved Wonderbars and Smarties. Elliott still can’t eat enough PayDays. The chocolate, it turned out, came at the end of the night in truffles and other mignardises. Together, the two fundraisers (in NYC and Austin) garnered nearly $15,000. And because the chefs paid their own way and for their ingredients, almost all of that money went directly to Share Our Strength’s No Kid Hungry campaign. So what did the visiting chefs think of our fair city? Carson liked that our food scene is “eclectic” and that everyone is doing something uniquely their own. “Rather than having worked for one or two big chefs and everyone having the same style, chefs here have congregated from all points and bring different ideas,” he said. Corbett liked the city’s character. “There are a lot of small restaurants with tons of it,” he said, “like at the Wet Whistle, where I was flipping through records as I ate an Indian paratha.” Yep, that’s Austin. “You guys have such a strong point of view,” Tosi told me, noting that La Condesa’s Laura Sawicki is one of her favorites in town. “And that’s what makes a really good dessert— point of view and tapping into people’s food memories. The flavors never lie.”

Clockwise from top left: macarons by Plinio Sandalio and Lincoln Carson, Bill Corbett’s “Root Down” parsnip cake, Philip Speer’s savory appetizer; Speer with sous chefs.


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Bradley Nicholson [pictured] and his peers at Barley Swine—together with staffers at Hillside Farmacy, Justine’s Brasserie and Second Bar & Kitchen—share stories from the line.

b y l i s a s i va | p h o to g r a p h y b y a n d r e w c h a n

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From left to right: sous chef Mark Buley, line cook Parker Smith, sous chefs Sam Hellman-Mass and Jon West and line cook Bradley Nicholson.

at b arle y s w ine, b e f o r e t h e d o o r s o p e n , yo u ’ l l f i n d t h e k i t c h e n t e a m w o r k i n g t o a p l ay l i s t a s d i v e r s e a s t h e s ta f f e r s t h e m s e lv e s . T h e l i n e c o o k s , s o u s c h e f s a n d s t e w a r d ta k e u s b e h i n d t h e s c e n e s o f o n e o f t h e c i t y ’ s m o s t c e l e b r at e d g a s t r o p u b s.

Bradley Nicholson | Line Cook

While a folksy soundtrack of country classics like George Strait plays in the background, line cook Bradley Nicholson is hard at work. “This industry rewards talent,” he says, “but being all about cooking is what is gonna get you ahead.” Though it’s always a race against the clock, he loves being able to connect with diners through the open kitchen and “see either their surprise and joy.” If you order beer for the staff, he won’t say no to any of the Hops & Grain Greenhouse Beers—It’s For a Cop is his favorite. tribeza.com

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Parker Smith | Line Cook

Sam Hellman-Mass | Sous Chef

Parker Smith (pictured left) grew up with his childhood comfort food

Flour may be the most difficult ingredient to work with for Sous Chef

of peanut butter and waffles, but these days, you can find him work-

Sam Hellman-Mass (pictured right), but “getting all the good energy”

ing the line at Barley Swine, slinging pork trotter, scallops and more.

from diners seated at the bar is well worth the challenge. It’s “the ca-

Smith’s music to cook by includes a bluesy lineup of Derek Trucks, Flats

maraderie of making great food as a team,” however, that drives Hell-

and Scruggs and Johnny Watson. Above all, Barley Swine is an immer-

man-Mass as he works the line to the sounds of Austin music legend

sive experience for both diner and cook, Smith says: the open kitchen

Willie Nelson. When you’re in the kitchen, he says, you have to “give

offers a “chance for people to see how the food comes together,” while

it everything you have and learn something from everyone you meet.”

as a line cook, “you can never ask too many questions.”

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From left to right: server Gray Hickox, host and runner Marsha Taylor, co-owner Jade Place-Matthews and server Thorne Russell

Housed in a charming, decades-old pharmacy, Hillside Farmacy is as stylish as it is delicious. Australian-born Jade Place-Matthews (pictured second from right), the restaurant’s co-owner, fondly remembers opening night, when the Turner family came in for dinner. “Mrs. Turner’s father was the first African American pharmacist in Austin, and this was his pharmacy,” she says. “It was amazing to hear Mrs. Turner tell her great-grandchildren stories about her father’s life and her time working the soda fountain in the building.” Now, Place-Matthews is making stories of her own, with signature dishes like baked oysters and a colorful staff to boot. “They are all individuals, and we love that about them,” she says.

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Gray Hickox | Server Once, a crabber bought Gray Hickox (pictured left) a beer and took him fishing on St. Simons Island, off the coast of Georgia. From that moment, Hickox knew he wanted to work around food, and today, you’ll find this server at the front of the house at Hillside Farmacy, dressed in his dapper style. He has that fateful fishing trip to thank—even though, he notes wryly, the crab man still owes him 50 bucks. Thorne Russell | Server The son of Hillside Farmacy chef and co-owner Sonya Cote, Thorne Russell (pictured right) has grown up surrounded by food—especially, he recalls, his favorite salty fish and Chinese barbecue. At the front of the house, his style is both elegant and functional, inspired

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in part by England in the 1960s, but the true pleasure of his job is interacting with the customers. “I try my hardest to keep the restaurant happy and running smoothly,” he says, “and sometimes, that leads to happy people.” Marsha Taylor | Host & Runner After graduating from high school, host and runner Marsha Taylor moved to Austin on a whim, but it’s the restaurants that have kept her here. “I love seafood in general, so I’m glad to be working in a place that serves it,” she says. Taylor is rarely without a pair of high-waisted pants, but it isn’t just about being stylish, as her role demands constant multitasking and overseeing the front of the house. “Here, we look pretty cute,” she says, “but we bust our butts.”


Hillside Farmacy co-owner Jade Place-Matthews (pictured) describes her style as equal parts thrift and designer, with Acne Pistol boots and a good pair of sunglasses among her staples. tribeza.com

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From left to right: host and server Marie Ely, server Diamond Mueller, Roman Sailor Pelegrin (the newborn son of Justine’s owners Justine Gilcrease and Pierre Pelegrin) server Veronica Ortuño, host Stephanie Stephens, server Hannah Sweets, bartender Olivier Calmant, server Kristen Palmer, bartender Neil Pedigo, server Aunna Carleton and bartender Gabi Tuschack.

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At night, a charming 1930s house on East Fifth Street trans-

restaurant,” Gilcrease and Pelegrin remark. “It has soul—from the

forms into an inviting bistro: strands of lights twinkle in the back, a

history of its lost-in-space location on the East Side to the amazing

Francoise Hardy record begins to crackle, and suddenly, you could

people who come to eat and drink and talk here.” Over ratatouille

be in another era, on the banks of the Seine. This is Justine’s Bras-

and coq au vin, you might find Lemmy of Motorhead at the bar,

serie, Austin’s destination for late-night French fare. “We love peo-

Kim Gordon putting on lipstick in the ladies’ room, or Robert Plant

ple, and we love dinner parties,” say owners Justine Gilcrease and

flipping through records—but every night, Gilcrease and Pelegrin

Pierre Pelegrin. “We wanted to create a place like our living room

note, is unforgettable. “Going through those long days and insane

or dining room, our backyard and garden.” With a classic menu and

nights with everyone who works there really creates a sense of fami-

a quirky atmosphere, Justine’s has a certain je ne sais quoi, an air

ly,” they say. After a long evening, their most rewarding moment is “any

of effortlessness that draws diners of all stripes. “It’s more than a

tattered, tired, beautiful 2am when we close up.”

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h a i r by D i a m o nd M u el l er & m a k eu p by Jacq u el in e F er n a nd e z


Scott Martin | Server Second Bar + Kitchen is home to many unforgettable moments for server Scott Martin: “Waiting on Timbaland—that was cool. I mean, it’s Timbaland,” he recalls. “Or, you know, when Tom Araya enters the room.” It’s the restaurant’s menu of elegant classics, however, from braised short rib to pork belly fried rice, that Martin admires the most. “The Brussels sprouts,” he adds. “Don’t skip the sprouts.” Dressed in his go-to Levi’s and Rockport boots, Martin shares his love of Second’s cuisine with guests—because the best part about being a server, he says, is “getting to introduce people to things for the first time.” Chris Sowers | Server Chris Sowers (pictured right) has lived around the world, from Paris to Colorado—but today, he calls Austin home. At Second Bar + Kitchen, you can’t miss this server or his signature style, which he calls “a blend of clean cut, modern and lumberjack-ish,” often punctuated by a crisp, white button-up and a great pair of Chuck Taylors. He’s traded in Spam, his childhood staple, for a mouthwatering menu of Buffalo Fried Pickles and Grilled Flank Steak, as well as Second’s clientele of celebrities, actors and everyday Austinites. “I really enjoy commu-

At the heart of downtown Austin, Second

Bar + Kitchen is a focal point for cuisine and style. Though the front of house dress code is white shirts and jeans, servers Scott Martin (pictured left) and Chris Sowers (right) bring a personal panache with a few, distinctive touches, like Rockport boots and a memorable mustache.

nicating with people,” he says, “and the ability to genuinely make someone’s day every day.”

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By t o l l y m o s e l e y | Photography by l e a n n m u e l l e r T h r e e s ta r pa s t ry c h e f s a n d t h e s w e e t e r side of Austin’s culinary boom

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callie speer Swift’s Attic

After slinging sweets in some of Austin’s most noted restaurants, Callie Speer (pictured) crafts imaginative, yet nostalgic desserts at Swift’s Attic. tribeza.com

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K yle McKinney is chopping basil when I walk in. A normally spiky mohawk is ungelled, and when he sees me, he follows my gaze to his knife. “Yeah, this is for the lemon tart I’m working on,” he says. “We serve it with quinoa granola. It’s pretty sick.” His boss, Chef Bryce Gilmore of Barley Swine, is checking items off a clip-boarded sheet, while cooks mill about a modest kitchen, assembling raw ingredients that will become tonight’s heartily-consumed, heartily-Instagrammed dinners. This is the 29th kitchen McKinney has worked in. “I really haven’t done anything else,” he confesses when I ask him. “I started washing dishes when I was 16 in San Antonio.” It’s my favorite narrative from the food world: the kid who starts at the very bottom and determinedly works his way up. I’ve always associated those plucky young guns with the savory—the sushi protégés, the French traditionalists, the molecular gastronomists. But what about the sweet? The pastry chef living in my mind is not a young gun; she is a little old lady. Her meringues come from a time-honored recipe, her peach cobbler just as good as it was in the Reagan administration. In short, she is a strict formulist, my imaginary pastry chef. But these days, the desserts coming out of Austin’s restaurant kitchens are anything but formulaic. Experimental? Nostalgic? Bizarre? Yes, these are all adjectives I’d use for my favorite local sweets. So I tracked down three of their chief inventors—a James Beard Award Semifinalist and two Food & Wine Magazine nominees—to find out how they’re keeping Austin sweetly weird.

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kyle McKinney Barley Swine


“bas i cally, m y dad told m e I had to get a job,”

tapas, every bite a song. Speer likes desserts that feel familiar—nostalgic tastes, but just a bit elevated. “I like people to be able to recognize what they’re eat-

Like McKinney, she was 16.

dish. It’s a homemade Kit Kat bar with candied popcorn,

me to do in the kitchen. I fell in love with it and basically never stopped.” Speer’s journey to Swift’s Attic pastry chef—as well as her recent nomination for Food & Wine Magazine People’s Best New Pastry Chef—included stops at Magnolia Café, the late Café Caprice, Cippolina and Jeffrey’s, until Speer landed her first official pastry chef position at Mars. “There was this lady at Cippolina who did our pastry

drops of root beer gel, buttered popcorn gelato and sparkly hunks of salt. “Yeah, I’m never getting away from that one,” she says with a smile. A fortunate predicament for the rest of us.

“I lied to get my first cooking job,”

McKinney says. He’s let-

case, and when she was fired, I piped up,” she says. “I was

ting me taste his blueberry rooibos sorbet, which will join

like, ‘Hey! Guys! I can do this,’ and they let me take a stab

the aforementioned sick lemon tart.

at it. I never went to school for pastry, just kept on working

“Before that, I was washing dishes at this other kitchen—

at kitchens around town, and when Mars moved to their

and playing with fire on the line just looked a lot more fun.”

big location at South Congress, I met my husband, Philip.”

It worked. McKinney got the job and continued to work a

“Philip” is Philip Speer, the pastry chef at Uchi, responsi-

string of chain restaurants through his teens, until he and

ble for all those storied peanut butter semifreddos. He and

his friend cooked up a plan to take themselves to culinary

Callie would soon marry and have a baby together, while

school. That was Scottsdale Culinary Institute—and when

she worked pastry at parkside.

he returned to Austin in his mid-20s, he landed a job at the

“I worked there literally up until the day before I gave birth,” Speer laughs. “I called Shawn [Cirkiel] and was like, ‘Hey, dude—I’m going to be out for a while.’”

er at age 15 and has been

Chef, a little punk rock: think small plates of American

ing,” she says, handing me her famous Popcorn & a Movie

cent’s Italian Kitchen—just doing anything they wanted

left) started as a dishwash-

tic, a hyper-local restaurant whose dishes are a little Top

says Callie Speer when I ask her how she got into cooking. “So I worked at this place in Davenport Village—Vin-

Kyle McKinney (pictured

A year later, she was. Clouser’s restaurant was Swift’s At-

Hilton and eventually, the Four Seasons under pastry chef Naomi Gallego. “She was from San Antonio too, so we got along real quick,”

As Speer cared for her and Philip’s new baby, Lucy, the

says McKinney. “She was the first person who mentored me

two started a pastry catering company—Cakemix Austin—

on pastry and was just amazing. I was like the lowest guy on

and Speer baked from home.

the totem pole there, but we grew up five miles from each

“Then, I went to a company party for Uchi and ran into

other so, you know. We were each other’s people.”

working in kitchens ever

Mat [Clouser],” she says. “He told me he was opening up

since. Today, you’ll find him

Gallego asked McKinney to partner with her for a U.S.

this new restaurant and that I should think about becom-

Pastry Competition and a Food Network Challenge for

ing its pastry chef.”

chocolate. The two recreated Degas’ “Little Dancer” stat-

at Barley Swine, whipping up innovative sweets.

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ue in chocolate, complete with tiny gears that turned her

big dream was to work at Thomas Keller’s Per Se, but I was

in a circle. As his culinary portfolio grew, McKinney found

afraid to apply so young and inexperienced. She said, ‘Well,

himself gravitating toward cold prep, leading to jobs with a

why don’t you? The worst they could say is no.’”

slew of sushi restaurants around town—until he answered a fateful Craigslist ad.

O’Leary—now 17—walked right into Per Se’s back door.

“That was how I got the job at Barley Swine!” McKinney

“Richard [Capizzi] was there,” says O’Leary, “and I asked

cries when I say I don’t believe him. “Seriously. I came in and

him if I could have a job! It was almost like fate, because

the guys were like, ‘Oh, okay. This kid knows what he’s doing’

their two pastry chefs had just left to work at Bouchon Bak-

and hired me,” he says.

ery—so I put down my things and got to work.”

“It’s an awesome environment—it’s a place where we’re all encouraged to take risks and be really creative.” Creative is right. McKinney shows me pictures of his latest invention, his version of “breakfast cereal:” marshmallow,

Whether it was an audition, lucky timing or a combination of the two, O’Leary worked that day for eight hours straight. When she came back the next morning, she was hired.

homemade rice crispies tossed with vanilla sugar, barley ice

“I was there for three years, and it was an amazing experience,”

cream, strawberry “gushers,” crispy chocolate merengue

says O’Leary, a James Beard Award Semi-Finalist for Rising

and chocolate crumbles.

Star Chef of the Year. “I got to learn all about pastry and worked

“Yeah,” McKinney says, “I’m really just a 12-year-old kid, obviously.”

at Bouchon, too, making chocolates. I used to work the dinner

It makes me wonder if that 16-year-old dishwasher had any

shift at Per Se, and then come back at three in the morning to

idea all those years ago where he’d end up today.

At t h e a g e most teenage girls are going through driver’s ed,

start making my chocolates.” Two more high-end restaurant posts later, O’Leary and her husband decided it was time to move to a place a bit more child-friendly. With a baby on the way, they headed south to Austin, just as TRACE was opening its doors— and the restaurant snatched her up right away. Today, O’Leary’s knockout desserts are one of TRACE’s main calling cards. “You’re like the Doogie Howser of pastry chefs,” I remark, dipping her Drunken Doughnuts into luscious vodka whipping cream and tequila chili fudge sauce. She laughs,

Janina O’Leary was researching culinary schools from her

holding out even more pretty confections: tiny Red Vel-

bedroom in Del Rio.

vet Whoopie Pies with basil ice cream, a Lemon Budino

“I knew from a very young age what I wanted to do,” says O’Leary. Which is why she applied—and got accepted—to the French Culinary Institute in New York at 15. “Julia Child came in one day as a guest chef, and I asked her for professional advice,” says O’Leary. “I told her that my

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So after a couple of fine dining stints in Manhattan,

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sprinkled with mini merengue kisses. “I’ve been really fortunate,” she says. “My aunt and my mom always wanted to open a bakery in Del Rio and were really the first ones to inspire me. I’m still amazed I get to do this for a living.”

Inspired by Julia Child, Janina O’Leary (pictured right) took a leap of faith and landed in some of New York’s most prestigious kitchens before heading south to TRACE at W Austin.


J a n i n a O’ L e a ry T R AC E

p h o to b y m at t r a i n w at e r s

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1.

4.

7.

5.

2.

3.

6.

8.

9.

1. Fresh chiogga beets from Farmhouse Delivery. 2. A mix of antique New Mexican crosses, altar candles, trophy deer from Perch in New Orleans with canvas floor cushions from Spartan. 3. Elizabeth's collection of cookbooks has grown so much that she took the doors off the cabinets for easy access. 4. Breakfast pastries from Flour Bakery. 5. Lazy Sunday morning breakfasts are a family favorite. 6. Found coyote skulls, a Mexican Saint Michael statue, a vintage oil painting and a watercolor of Elizabeth's mother from the early 70s. 7. Elizabeth's home office with a Victorian fabric sculpture. 8. Salt—a Winslow family kitchen essential. 9. New cookbook finds from a recent trip to Portland, Maine.

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community

profile in style

Elizabeth Winslow Founder, Haymakers From the moment

she could pull a chair up to the kitchen counter,

Elizabeth Winslow has lived the life of a true gourmet—but whether she was heading up her own restaurant or foraging for artisan foods, Winslow has always been drawn to the idea of bringing people together around the table. “I realized early on how much food made people happy and how much they enjoyed sharing the experience,” she says. “I wanted to make that happen.” A native of Beaumont, Winslow evacuated to Austin during Hurricane Rita and fell in love with the culinary community she found here: “I went to Boggy Creek Farm,” she laughs, “and that was it.” Since then, she has become a champion of the city’s local food scene as an Edible Austin contributor, Sustainable Food Center volunteer and co-founder of Farmhouse Delivery. Her latest endeavor, Haymakers, aims to connect the inspiring food makers, growers and consumers she’s discovered along the way. “I love talking to people about what they’re doing and what they’re creating and how they’re solving this puzzle of creating a more robust, sustainable food system for everyone,” she notes. Haymakers is an online community open to anyone interested in joining the worldwide sustainable food revolution. An array of Q and A sessions, round table discussions and workshops offer food entrepreneurs insight into growing their businesses and making sustainable food practices a reality. “My goal is for all of us together to be creating a big conversation about how we can change the world through delicious food,” Winslow says. “That sounds pretty grand, but I think there’s so much passion and commitment here that we can inspire one another to move forward collectively and bring change to the way the entire country eats and enjoys food.” For more information about Elizabeth Winslow and Haymakers, visit haymakersonline.com. P h oto g r a p h y by e va n p r i n c e

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style

behind the scenes

AthleticFoodie Through personal experiences and world travel, olympian and food enthusiast garrett weber-gale shares healthy tips for a better life. Olympic Gold-Medalist Swimmer Garrett Weber-Gale shares his passion for cooking through his website AthleticFoodie and his new podcast For the Love of Food.

I For the Love of Food airs every Monday and shares personal stories of challenges and triumphs from a wide range of guests.

For more information about AthleticFoodie and For the Love of Food, visit athleticfoodie.com,

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AthleticFoodie is based on the idea that food can be delicious, healthy and easy to prepare.

t’s hard to imagine Olympic gold medalist Garrett Weber-Gale as a clueless cook—but before his diagnosis of high blood pressure eight years ago, the swimmer admits he “had no idea how to cook anything.” He soon realized, however, that his condition could mean the end of his swimming career if left unchecked. As he began to work toward a new, healthier lifestyle, Weber-Gale found that he could lower his blood pressure just by eating right and, in time, discovered a deep love for cooking. After traveling across the world, apprenticing with famous chefs in kitchens such as Noma, Celler Can Roca, La Maison Troisgros and Daniel, Weber-Gale launched AthleticFoodie, a site that shares recipes and healthy tips for living well, from exercising to packing food for travel. At the heart of AthleticFoodie, however, is WeberGale’s new podcast, For the Love of Food. Airing weekly on Mondays, the podcast features two recipes per month inspired by a diverse cast of famous chefs, nutritionists, food entrepreneurs, professional athletes, including a Super Bowl champion, and other Olympians, who share the challenges and triumphs of attaining a higher quality of life through food. And as if this food enthusiast doesn't have enough on his plate, Weber-Gale is also in the process of writing a book that includes stories and recipes from his adventures around the world, while he trains for the upcoming Maccabiah Games in Israel and travels the country as a public speaker. His passion is evident in each of his endeavors, inspiring all of us to live a fuller and healthier life: "My main message is that dreams really can and do come true,” Weber-Gale says. “It is really hard sometimes, but the fact is we can all accomplish something great." A. horsley P h oto g r a p h y by k at e l e s u eu r



Come mix, mingle and chill at our event to officially announce “The Social”. We will have live music, specialty Ruby Red Vodka cocktails by Deep Eddy Vodka, Sailor Jerry’s Rum and delectable hors d’oeuvres. With an artistic fashion show and swag bags from Austin’s finest, this will be the event to remember. For more details about VIP info please call 512.442.2316 and “Like us” on Facebook. Date: Thursday, May 16th, 2013 | Time: 6-9 pm Location: 1817 E. Oltorf st. Live Music | Fashion Show at 7:30 pm | Benefits Austin Humane Society Deep Eddy Vodka | Sailor Jerry’s Rum

*Accepting in-kind donations for Austin Humane Society: Dog treats, paper towels, etc.

Now Leasing

512.326.2111 | DistrictAtSoCo.com Corner of South Congress & Oltorf. 1.5 miles from downtown. SoCo’s only brand new luxury apartments. First Apartment Community in Austin to be LEED Certified Gold.


Temporary InsanITy: pInaree sanpITak april 20–June 30, 2013

aLso on VIeW: Constructed Landscapes: seher shah The Jones Center 700 Congress Avenue Austin, TX 78701 IMAGE: Pinaree Sanpitak, Temporary Insanity, 2004, (installation detail taken at Jim Thompson Art Center, Bangkok, 2004), Silk, synthetic fiber, battery, motor, propeller, sound device, Photo by Aroon Permpoonsopol, Courtesy of the artist and Tyler Rollins Fine Art.

information@bellrossusa.com · e-Boutique: www.bellross.com


style

street fa shion Aaron P. Kimmel, Bar-

tender at Drink. Well. His style staples are a pair of black Levi’s, Rockport Boots and a comfortable button-up.

Nick Conover,

Bartender at Drink. Well. A long-time BMX-er, he frequents shops like Urban Outfitters and Vans.

Dennis Gobis,

Bartender at Drink. Well. He finds great boots at Dime City Cycles and loves an Old Fashioned “made the right way.”

Barkeep Style Catherine Weisnewski, Bartender at

Weather Up. She likes to order a Manhattan and stocks her closet with vintage finds from Charm School Vintage and Feathers.

Carolyn Gil,

Bartender at Weather Up. She is wearing a frock from a vintage shop in NYC called Pony.

Behind the Bar—fashion insights from cocktail concocters at our favorite watering holes. Alexis Piotrowski,

Bartender at the Jackalope. She is wearing fishnets and a skirt and top from Forever 21 paired with Chanel boots.

Brian Floyd,

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Bartender at Drink. Well. His style mantra? “When I moved back from NYC two months ago, I swore I’d never wear sleeves again unless I was working.”

Bill Beltone,

Bartender at The Jackalope. His drink is the Johnny Walker Black, and he’s been bartending for 15 years. P h oto g r a p h y by j e s s i c a pag e s


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style

pick

The Buzz Mill

Jason Sabala and Travis Kizer are the coowners of The Buzz Mill. Sabala manages the business side of the operation and Kizer—a coffee roaster by trade—takes care of all things caffeinated.

With a reVolving beer selection and gourmet coffee at any hour, The Buzz Mill fuels East Austinites in a warm, rustic space.

T

nearest Starbucks was a headache in traffic away, folks working his year, Austin welcomed a cozy new gem to East Riverside Drive: founded by co-owners Jason Sabala and Travis Kizer, for Emo's were in desperate need of a decent caffeine fix, not to mention a place to relax before and after shows. After Kizer, the together with marketing and branding man Ross Bennett, resident coffee-roaster, came on board, he and Sabala seized the The Buzz Mill is a rustic haven where the craft brew and locallyopportunity to make their mark in East Austin. roasted coffee are endless. From the inviting smell of fresh-cut "Once we got here, we realized there was nothing, no other wood to the stacked-log bar, this 24-hour destination is part bar, no coffee, no anything," Bennett remembers. "I think that charming log cabin and entirely Austin. Whether you're on your was the initial 'we should probably make something over here.'" laptop or off the clock, a student resident or happy hour seeker, But there's more to The Buzz Mill than just cold-brewed coffee the woodsy getaway is the perfect place to sip and stay a while. and Hamm's Beer. With a $5 Sunday brunch—complete with bot "We want people to be able to bike here and walk here from tomless flapjacks and a build-your-own Bloody Mary bar—daily where they live," Bennett says. "We're going to keep trying to happy hours and a packed roster of free shows, the place is brimming grow and be more friendly with everyone in our neighborhood with activity. Behind the bar and coffee shop, you'll even find the Blue and, at the same time, promote a general awareness to everyOx BBQ food truck, catering to those late-night diners and weekend one in Austin." brunchers alike. "We want everyone to feel comfortable," The idea to launch The Buzz Mill came with Bennett says. "It always comes back to that sense of comthe opening of the new Emo's location on East The Buzz Mill munity." With its nonstop libations, lively crowd and a Riverside a few years ago. While working for the 1505 Town Creek Dr. (512) 912 9221 touch of Austin quirk, The Buzz Mill is quickly becomstoried music venue, Sabala noticed there was buzzmillcoffee.com ing a beloved part of the East Side Landscape. M. riley something missing in the area: coffee. Since the

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P h oto g r a p h y by e va n p r i n c e


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Recipe for Success A Food Adventure Sunday, May 5, 6pm Rain Lily Farm 914 Shady Ln.

U

under the night sky, where spring gardens meet Rain Lily Farm, the culinary community will come together for A Food Adventure, a celebration of the journey from field and pasture to the table. Stephanie Scherzer of Farmhouse Delivery worked with Chefs Rene Ortiz and Laura Sawicki to create a sumptuous experience, complete with live music and an elegant dinner—though the centerpiece of the evening is the Recipe for Success Foundation, an innovative education program for children that aims to inspire a lifetime of healthy eating. Eight years ago, Gracie Cavnar founded Recipe for Success in response to increasing childhood obesity rates. At the time, the National Conference of State Legislatures had found a startling nine million children were overweight and consequently at risk for chronic conditions, including Type 2 diabetes and heart disease. "It boils down to the food

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From left to right: Recipe for Success Garden Instructor Sharon Siehl works with Kindergartners at MacGregor Elementary School; Recipe for Success Chef Carolyn Carcassi rolls dough with a Rodriguez Elementary student; Recipe for Success begins in school gardens, where teachers and students start the journey from “Seed to Plate.”

we eat and the way we eat it," Cavnar says. "We had a culture of all-day grazing and eating on the run." Her solution was simple enough in concept, yet monumental in impact: teach children the pleasures of mindful eating. "As a mother of three children and a grandmother of two, I knew it was possible to get kids to eat healthy food and like it," Cavnar observes, "so I thought, 'we're going to go into schools and put kids in touch with their food again.'" While Jamie Oliver was leading his Food Revolution across the Atlantic, Cavnar first launched Recipe for Success in six Houston elementary schools with her Seed to Plate Nutrition Education™ model. The program weaves together gardening and cooking, as well as lessons from math, vocabulary, and other disciplines, into a sustainable, dynamic curriculum used around the country today. "It's not rocket science," Cavnar says. "When people worried that kids wouldn't respond to this, I told them, 'Let me show you what we can do.'" And Recipe for Success did the unthinkable— it encouraged children to be passionate about the food on their plates and where it came from. Cavnar recalls, for example, a shy fourth grader who announced to a school board member that his favorite vegetable was Brussels sprouts. "Kids love the magic of food," she laughs. "They enjoy watching a seed become a carrot and then pulling it out of the ground, making carrot soup and sitting around the table to eat it together. We're

empowering kids to create tastes and flavors they're going to love." Soon, Austin will be home to Recipe for Success as well—and while young Austinites begin to discover the culinary world around them, A Food Adventure invites adults to do the same. As a founder of Farmhouse Delivery, which connects neighbors with their local farmers and food artisans, Scherzer looks forward to hosting this colorful dinner under the stars with Rain Lily Farm co-owner Kim Beal: "Recipe for Success is teaching kids to grow things and eat well," Scherzer says, "and that's what we're about at Farmhouse Delivery, bringing the freshest foods to the table and teaching people about them." A Food Adventure takes its name from Cavnar's cookbook for children, Eat It! Food Adventures with Marco Polo, which follows the Venetian explorer on his travels through the Middle East, Caucasus Mountains and China. Inspired by Polo's intrepid spirit, the evening will take dinners on their own tasting tour of the world: "I hope our guests enjoy a wonderful food experience and an appreciation for what goes into our food in a celebratory, everyday way," Cavnar remarks. "It's the real-world incarnation of what we teach our kids." For more information about Recipe for Success, visit recipe4success.org. A Food Adventure tickets may be purchased at farmhousedelivery.com. l. Siva

photography courtesy of recipe for success.

dining


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special advertising section

A Taste of Austin Maria’s Taco Xpress Maria’s Taco Xpress is a must-visit eclectic and eccentric eatery. Deemed “South Austin’s Taco Queen,” owner Maria Corbalan has been satisfying taco lovers all over Austin for the past 15 years. Come visit on Sunday to experience the original Austin Hippie Church. Treat your ears to live gospel grooves, fill your stomach with Rachael Ray’s favorite Miga Taco and fuel your creativity by building your own bloody mary.

2529 S Lamar Blvd Austin, Texas 78704 512.444.0261 | www.tacoxpress.com

34th Street Café Chef Jason Tallent has crafted a new menu, serving up delicious farm-to-table cuisine in this eclectic local café. The chicken picatta, Chinese hack salad and homemade coconut cake are all house favorites, and the café offers a boutique, hand-picked wine selection. With 18 years in Austin, locals love the fresh dishes and trendy atmosphere. Plenty of parking in the back!

1005 West 34th St. 512.371.3400 | 34thstreetcafe.com

Gusto

Blue Star Cafeteria Featuring uptown comfort-cuisine set inside a hip, modern interior, Blue Star offers a casual yet stylish dining atmosphere and was a first in the Lo-Burn area. Chef Kenny Kopecky serves up the best menu with homemade pies and cakes, or experience our chicken-fried quail. Don’t miss the wine specials during late night happy hour... and the burgers are to die for...our Garden Burger was voted by Austin Monthly fans as “Burger the Beatles would Write a Song About!”

Swing by our cozy neighborhood eatery and wine

4800 Burnet Rd. C-300 512.454.7827 | bluestarcafeteria.com

4800 Burnet Rd. 512.458.1100 | gustoitaliankitchen.com

bar for happy hour with your friends, dinner with family, or a celebration on the patio. We offer a fabulous selection of 40 wines under 40 dollars, along with delectable appetizers and daily specials. Indulge in authentic Italian dishes such as pappardelle Bolognese, or linguine and mussels, all from Chef Cody Krause. Gusto invites all to drink, taste and enjoy!

Santa Rita Cantina Doña Margarita B. is considered to be the Mother of (All) Tex-Mex. She created special recipes for dishes that she dedicated to her secret loves – our menu is the legacy of the passions of Santa Rita. Try some of our award-winning salsa, or enjoy a tasty margarita on the patio! Two convenient Austin locations, and fantastic happy hour specials.

sanntaritacantina.com Central: 1206 West 38th St. | 512.419.7482 South: 5900 W. Slaughter Ln. | 512.288.5100

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visit tribeza.com to view our entire

Dining Guide


special advertising section

Second Bar + Kitchen, Bar Congress & Congress Second Bar + Kitchen, Bar Congress and Congress are located in downtown Austin on the ground floor of the Austonian. Executive Chef David Bull creates

Stiles Switch BBQ & Brew

Specializing in Slow Smoked Meats and Texas Craft Beer. Austin’s original Stiles Switch BBQ

casual dishes at Second Bar + Kitchen like buffalo

& Brew located in the historic 1950s Violet

fried pickles and short rib sliders, and offers three-

Crown Shopping Center at 6610 N. Lamar Blvd.

and seven-course prix-fixe menus at Congress.

Central Texas BBQ sliced to order daily at 11am.

Bon Appétit named all three as “Top Ten Best New Restaurants.”

200 Congress Avenue, Austin, Texas 78701 512.827.2750 | www.congressaustin.com

Join us for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday.

6610 N. Lamar Blvd. Austin, Texas 78757 512.380.9199 | www.stilesswitchbbq.com

Swift’s Attic

Finn & Porter

Swift’s Attic’s cuisine is influenced by a passion for farm to table offerings billed as “Modern American Small Plates” with a focus on the creative, whimsical and

Finn & Porter is an upscale dining destination

delicious. The bar features a meticulously selected craft

serving modern American cuisine focused on fresh

beer selection as well as eclectic wine list, and creative

and local ingredients. The restaurant has been rec-

cocktails. Swift’s Attic is open for Dinner, Lunch and

ognized for its award-winning steaks and wine list,

Sunday Brunch! Exec Chef Mat Clouser and Pastry Chef

in addition to serving creative seafood and sushi.

Callie Speer have both recently been nominated for

Finn & Porter’s Loft Bar serves innovative cocktails

Food and Wine: People’s Best New Chef (Southwest) and

and select wines, plus delicious twists to its classic

People’s Best New Pastry Chef (Central) respectively in

bar food menu.

recognition of their skilled stylings at Swifts Attic.

315 Congress Ave Austin, Texas 78701 512.482-8842 | www.swiftsattic.com

500 East 4th Street, Austin, Texas 78701 512.493.4900 | www.finnandporter.com

Trento

Becca Schafer Events Becca Schafer Events produces on-site, customized fine dining experiences through catering and private chef services for your wedding, event or intimate gathering. So much more than food - your complete vision is brought to life through our comprehensive design, planning, and management services. Becca Schafer Events will happily accommodate you in Austin, Horseshoe Bay, the Hill Country, or on destination adventures.

www.BeccaSchaferEvents.com 254.981.4447 | Becca@BeccaSchaferEvents.com

Trento is a fresh + casual + Italian restaurant, featuring chef inspired cuisine; house made pastas, seafood and steaks, wood fired pizza, daily lunch and dinner specials, and a fabulous Sunday brunch. 70% gluten free menu, kids menu, extensive wine list, Happy Hour with specialty cocktails. Private Dining Room available for business meetings, birthday, wedding, graduation, pizza parties or any other occasion. Bon Appetito!

3600 N. Capital of Texas Hwy. Austin, Texas 512.328.7555 | www.trento360.com tribeza.com

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Dinner & Drinks

restaurant Guide African ASTER’S ETHIOPIAN

2804 N. I-35 (512) 469 5966

A family-owned business serving up authentic Ethiopian cuisine since 1991. CAZAMANCE

1101 E. Cesar Chavez St. (512) 844 4414 Chef Iba Thiam whips up aromatic West African cuisine with a global perspective. KARIBU ETHIOPIAN RESTAURANT & BAR

1209 E. 7th St. (512) 320 5454

Taking its name from the Swahili word for “welcome,” Karibu offers popular Ethiopian cuisine.

American 219 WEST

612 W. 6th St. (512) 474 2194 American tapas, mini burgers and cocktails— one of the most beloved happy hours in the city. 34TH STREET CAFÉ

1005 W. 34th St. (512) 371 3400

Cuisine carefully prepared with fresh ingredients and a warm, homegrown Austin feel.

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Bacon

900 W. 10th St. (512) 322 9777 Bacon is more than a breakfast side dish here: it’s the star of the show. Locally sourced and smoked in Austin, the bacon comes in a variety of seasonal flavors, including Thai spice and pumpkin. BLACK STAR CO-OP

7020 Easy Wind Dr. (512) 452 2337

Beer and Texas pub fare in a co-operative community environment. CENOTE

1010 E. Cesar Chavez St. (512) 524 1311 This converted home is a beautiful place for lunch or catching up over coffee. CHEZ ZEE CAFÉ AND BAKERY

5406 Balcones Dr. (512) 454 2666

Colorful decor and a huge menu with nice salads and lunchtime pizzas. Delicious house made desserts too. DOCK AND ROLL DINER

1503 S. 1st St. (512) 657 8415

The decadent lobster rolls or aromatic Blue Banhette are a must! EASTSIDE CAFÉ

2113 Manor Rd. (512) 476 5858

Delicious and healthy fare from the organic garden out back since 1988.

2438 W. Anderson Ln. (512) 467 2337

1900 Manor Rd. (512) 366 5154

The perfect union of burgers and beer: enjoy fresh ingredients like Black Angus beef and hand-cut fries. House made buns are delicious.

Craving a classic burger? Look no further than Flat Top.

HUDSON’S ON THE BEND

FLAT TOP BURGER SHOP

FRANK

407 Colorado St. (512) 494 6916 Irresistible hot dogs made from artisan sausages like the Jackalope with local antelope, rabbit, and pork. GALAXY CAFÉ

9911 Brodie Ln., Ste. 750 (512) 233 6000 1000 West Lynn St. (512) 478 3434 4616 Triangle Ave. (512) 323 9494 A contemporary café serving all-day lunch, an exquisite dinner selection and gluten-free menu. GOURDOUGH’S PUBLIC HOUSE

2700 S. Lamar Blvd. (512) 912 9070 Austin’s favorite donut trailer gets a brick and mortar, featuring the eatery’s signature giant donuts and cocktails. HOPDODDY BURGER BAR

1400 S. Congress Ave. (512) 243 7505

3509 RR 620 N. (512) 266 1369

Best menu of wild game in town—delicious quail salad, rattlesnake cakes and grilled venison chops with lobster tail. HYDE PARK BAR AND GRILL

4206 Duval St. (512) 458 3168 4521 West Gate Blvd. (512) 899 2700

LEAF

3101 N. I-35 (512) 478 7107

Countless variations on wonderfully fresh, madeto-order salads with homemade dressings.

This cosmic favorite serves tasty breakfast and lunch items and is open late night for Austin’s night owls.

LUCY’S FRIED CHICKEN

2218 College Ave. (512) 297 2423 Classic fried chicken from Chef James Holmes and an extensive raw bar. MOONSHINE

303 Red River St. (512) 236 9599 Happy hour specials and fun appetizers, like corn dog shrimp, served on a stick with blueberry honey mustard. PAGGI HOUSE

A neighborhood scene with fine food and a cool, central bar.

200 Lee Barton Dr. (512) 473 3700

J. BLACK’S FEEL GOOD LOUNGE

Eclectic fine dining in an inviting setting of one of Austin’s famous landmark homes.

710 W. 6th St. (512) 433 6954

Pub fare at its best. Try the Texas Kobe beef sliders and signature thin-crust pizzas.

ROARING FORK

JACK ALLEN’S KITCHEN

This western bistro and “saloon” brings in the crowds for one of the best happy hour deals in town. And many stay on for a delicious dinner.

7720 Hwy. 71 W. (512) 852 8558 Country favorites with a twist from Chef Jack Gilmore.

STAR SEEDS CAFÉ

419 W. 2nd St. (512) 474 LEAF

701 Congress Ave. (512) 583 0000 10850 Stonelake Blvd. (512) 342 2700

THREE LITTLE PIGS

1209 Rosewood Ave. (512) 653 5088 Your source for all things pork-centric, from sliders to pulled pork sandwiches. URBAN AN AMERICAN GRILL

11301 Domain Dr. (512) 490 1511

Urban offers classic comfort food in a modern, sophisticated atmosphere tucked inside the Westin Hotel. THE WOODLAND

1716 S. Congress Ave. (512) 441 6800 Modern comfort food, made fresh daily in a cozy space. Bottles of wine are half price on Sunday.

Asian ASIA CAFÉ

8650 Spicewood Springs Rd. Ste. 115 (512) 331 5788 Authentic Chinese cuisine in a comfortable atmosphere.


BAR CHI SUSHI

206 Colorado St. (512) 382 5557

(512) 422 5884

An upscale, fanciful sushi bar with a killer sevenday happy hour menu.

Chefs Paul Qui, Moto Utsonomaya and Ek Timrek offer out-of-thisworld pan-Asian food from three trailers.

CHINATOWN

G’RAJ MAHAL

3407 Greystone Dr. (512) 343 9307 107 W. 5th St. (512) 637 8888 Some of the best traditional Chinese food in town. Fast service in the dining room and delivery is available. THE CLAY PIT

1601 Guadalupe St. (512) 322 5131 Zip in for a buffetstyle lunch or settle in for a long dinner of contemporary Indian cuisine. CURRYOSITY

2209 E. Cesar Chavez St. (512) 574 3691 An exploration of aromatic curries across the Asian continent, from India to Thailand. DRAGON GATE BY PHOENIX

3801 N. Capital of Tx Hwy. (512) 732 7278 Extensive menu filled with both Japanese offerings and Chinese favorites. EAST SIDE KING

1700 E. 6th St.

91 Red River St. (512) 480 2255 With an extensive yet cozy covered patio, G’Raj Mahal offers a surprising amount of ambiance for a food trailer.

KORIENTE

621 E. 7th St. (512) 275 0852 Healthy, tasty Korean options like bulgogi and curry dishes all served up by the friendly staff. LUCKY ROBOT

1303 S. Congress Ave. (512) 444 8081 A futuristic dining experience on Congress, inspired by the vibrant culture and cuisine of Tokyo.

IMPERIA

MARU

A Warehouse District highlight. Delectable Peking Duck and memorable specialty cocktails.

Fresh and classic sushi, sashimi and bento boxes.

310 Colorado St. (512) 472 6770

KENICHI

419 Colorado St. (512) 320 8883

4636 Burnet Rd. (512) 458 6200

MIKADO

9033 Research Blvd. (512) 833 8188

Popular downtown spot for some of the best sushi in town.

Enjoy robata (Japanese tapas) grilled before you, and lovely entrees of sea bass and duckling all day long.

KOME

MICHI RAMEN

4917 Airport Blvd. (512) 712 5700 More than just sushi, this eatery serves up Japanese comfort food, including delicious, homemade ramen. KOREA HOUSE RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR

6519 N. Lamar Blvd. (512) 386 1908 Fueling the ramen craze on North Lamar, Michi Ramen serves an authentic menu of ramen bowls, from the Veggie to the Meat Lover’s.

2700 W. Anderson Ln., Ste. 501 (512) 458 2477

MIZU PRIME STEAK & SUSHI

Grab a four-top and cook your own bulgogi in the middle of the table.

A blend of both

3001 RR. 620 S. (512) 263 2801

LOCAL FLAVOR Experience TRACE, showcasing the finest locally sourced and foraged flavors from the region’s surrounding farms. Sleek and sophisticated, Trace is committed to creating an enriching culinary experience by fusing the local personality of Austin with a commitment to socially responsible food. Featuring Chef de Cuisine Lawrence Kocurek & Executive Pastry Chef Janina O’Leary

LOCATED IN THE W AUSTIN 200 LAvACA STrEET AUSTIN, TX 78701 | 512.542.3660 | TrACEAUSTIN.COm

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traditional and contemporary takes on Japanese cuisine.

foremost among sushi spots in Austin. UCHIKO

3407 Greystone Dr. (512) 795 8593

TAM DELI & CAFÉ

4200 N. Lamar Blvd., #140 (512) 916 4808

The locally famed Musashino is where diehard sushi lovers flock when they crave near perfection.

A local staple for fresh, authentic Vietnamese cuisine.

The sensational sister creation of Uchi, helped by Top Chef Paul Qui. Try the bacon tataki!

RAMEN TATSU-YA

5207 Brodie Ln. Ste. 120 (512) 892 2008

MUSASHINO

8557 Research Blvd. Ste. 126 Japanese comfort at its finest in Austin’s first brick and mortar, ramencentric eatery. SATAY

3202 W. Anderson Ln. (512) 467 6731 Noodles, curry, stir fry, dumplings. Try the Miang Khum. SPIN MODERN THAI CUISINE

14005 N. US Hwy. 183 Ste. 10000 (512) 258 1365 With an array of tasting and full plates, Spin offers a modern take on traditional Thai flavors. SUZI’S CHINA GRILL & SUSHI BAR

7858 Shoal Creek Blvd. (512) 302 4600 Flavorful dishes like eggplant with garlic sauce or shrimp with lemongrass. SWAY

1417 S. 1st St. (512) 326 1999 The culinary master-

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minds behind one of our favorites, La Condesa, cook up Thai cuisine with a modern twist.

may 2013 tribeza.com

8222 N. Lamar Blvd.

TARKA INDIAN KITCHEN

WHIP IN MARKET & PARLOUR CAFE

Delicious and aromatic curries, biryanis and naan sandwiches.

This funky minimart-café satisfies keeps Austin weird with offbeat décor, copious beer and cheap, tasty food.

THAI PASSION

620 Congress Ave. (512) 472 1244 Menu speaks mostly of Northeastern Thailand, moderately priced. TOMODACHI SUSHI

4101 W. Parmer Ln. (512) 821 9472

1950 S. I-35 (512) 442 5337

Barbecue BLUE RIBBON BARBECUE

120 E. 4th St. (512) 369 3119

Innovative Japanese cuisine with spunk. Signature rolls include “Who’s Your Daddy?” and “Ex- Girlfriend.”

Three generations of Texas BBQ. Don’t leave without trying the banana pudding!

T & S SEAFOOD

5204 FM 2222 (512) 346 3664 6500 W. Bee Cave Rd. (512) 327 1742

10014 N. Lamar Blvd. (512) 339 8434 From the Dim Sum menu: delicate steamed shrimp dumplings, deepfried egg rolls and much more! UCHI

801 S. Lamar Blvd. (512) 916 4808 James Beard Award Winner Chef Tyson Cole has created an inventive menu that puts Uchi

COUNTY LINE

A busy, casual spot on the way to the lake is an Austin tradition and favorite. The barbecue turkey is tender, and the beans are out of this world. Arrive by boat and the captain eats free! IRON WORKS BBQ

100 Red River St. (512) 478 4855

No frills: grab your beer from the ice bucket and get ready for some traditional tender sauce dripping ribs. FRANKLIN BARBECUE

900 E. 11th St. (512) 653 1187

Crowned Best BBQ Restaurant in America by Bon Appetit, Aaron Franklin’s eponymous eatery is a true Austin institution. Go early and be prepared to wait! (It is worth it). FREEDMEN’S

2402 San Gabriel St. (512) 220 0953 Classic barbecue from a historic, converted home in West Campus. JMUELLER BBQ

1502 S. 1st St. (512) 229 7366

BBQ legend John Mueller returns to Austin with some of Texas’ finest, nofrills barbecue. LA BARBECUE

1502 S. 1st St. (512) 605 9696

In the heart of South First, La Barbecue whips up classic barbecue with free beer and live music. LAMBERTS DOWNTOWN BARBECUE

401 W. 2nd St. (512) 494 1500

Not your standard BBQ fare, meats are given an Austin twist, like the ribeye glazed with brown sugar and mustard.

RUBY’S BBQ

512 W. 29th St. (512) 477 2529 Long-time campusarea staple and a local favorite. THE SALT LICK

18001 FM 1826 (512) 858 4959

A short drive to Driftwood, it serves up some of the best ribs, brisket, and sausage in the state. STILES SWITCH BBQ & BREW

6610 N. Lamar Blvd. (512) 380 9199

Slow-smoked classic BBQ and local craft brew in a nostalgic, 50s-inspired atmosphere. What more can you ask for? STUBB’S BBQ

801 Red River St. (512) 480 8341 Known for its music scene as much as its barbecue, which is traditional and satisfying.

Continental APOTHECARY CAFÉ & WINE BAR

4800 Burnet Rd. (512) 371 1600

Dark wood paneling and an impressive wine and coffee list make Apothecary the perfect place to unwind. BANGER’S SAUSAGE HOUSE AND BEER GARDEN

79 & 71 Rainey St. (512) 386 1656 Banger’s brings the German beer garden tradition stateside with an array of artisan sausages and over 100 beers on tap. BARLEY SWINE

2024 S. Lamar Blvd. (512) 394 8150 Comfort food doesn’t get much better than the pork- and beer-centric gastropub by Chef Bryce Gilmore. BESS BISTRO

500 W. 6th St. (512) 477 2377 A French bistro with a southern Cajun flair. CAFÉ JOSIE

1200 W. 6th St. (512) 322 9226 Innovative and flavorful plates with fresh ingredients. THE CARILLON

1900 University Ave. (512) 404 3655 A fine dining spot, featuring New American cuisine with a sophisticated twist. CONGRESS

200 Congress Ave. (512) 827 2760 Flavorful dishes with global inspiration, including bone marrow brulee and hamachi sashimi. CONTIGO

2027 Anchor Ln. (512) 614 2260


Ranch to table cuisine and an elegant take on bar fare.

ELEVEN PLATES & WINE

COPPER RESTAURANT & DESSERT LOUNGE

In addition to small and large plate menus, Eleven offers a cocktail program that brings together pre-prohibition classics and award-winning new concoctions.

3401 Esperanza Crossing Ste. 104 (512) 215 3633 In addition to a full confectionary for your sweet cravings, Copper offers a menu emphasizing farmto-table produce, housemade breads and artisan meats. CRÚ WINE BAR

11410 Century Oaks Ter. Ste. 104 (512) 339 9463 238 W. 2nd St. (512) 472 9463 Elegant, tasteful small plates with over 300 wine selections, perfect for pairing. THE DRISKILL GRILL

604 Brazos St. (512) 391 7162

A dark intimate feel and rich American culinary experience. EAST SIDE SHOWROOM

1100 E. 6th St. (512) 467 4280

Delicious vintage cocktails in an eccentric space. Enjoy local art, music and cuisine by Sonya Cote. EASY TIGER

709 E. 6th St. (512) 614 4972 Delicious bake shop upstairs and beer garden downstairs. Enjoy the signature house-made sausages.

3800 N. Capital of Texas Highway (512) 328 0110

EPICERIE

2307 Hancock Dr. (512) 371 6840 A café and grocery with both Louisiana and French sensibilities by Thomas Keller-trained Sarah McIntosh. FABI + ROSI

509 Hearn St. (512) 236 0642 A husband and wife team cook up delicious European style dishes like pork schnitzel and paella. FINO Restaurant Patio & Bar

2905 San Gabriel St. (512) 474 2905

Mediterranean bites and plates for sharing. Sip a handcrafted cocktail al fresco on the lovely patio. FOREIGN & DOMESTIC

306 E. 53rd St. (512) 459 1010

Husband and wife duo, Ned and Jodi Elliott, whip up innovative cuisine with a nose-totail approach and lots of organic ingredients. GREEN PASTURES RESTAURANT

811 W. Live Oak St. (512) 444 4747

An Austin ancestral

estate in South Austin, open for lunch, dinner, and serving a Sunday brunch buffet.

The coziest of wine bars—try the burger with Gruyère, pancetta and a fried egg.

GOURMANDS NEIGHBORHOOD PUB

PARKSIDE

2316 Webberville Rd. (512) 610 2031

Pair your brew with unfussy sandwiches and gastropub fare. HILLSIDE FARMACY

1209 E. 11th St. (512) 628 0168

Part grocery store, part casual eatery, Hillside Farmacy is located in a beautifully restored 50s-style pharmacy. Oysters, cheese plates and nightly dinner specials.

301 E. 6th St. (512) 474 9898 Extensive raw oyster bar and a carefully curated menu of delicious specialties. Try the braised short rib. RESTAURANT JEZEBEL

800 W. 6th St. Ste. 100 (512) 436 9643 Chef Parind Vora reopened his acclaimed Restaurant Jezebel, featuring his signature,

innovative flavors. Diners can choose from two, sumptuous prix-fixe menus. SALTY SOW

1917 Manor Rd. (512) 391 2337 A late-night, pork-loving dining destination, Salty Sow serves up creative signature drinks, including a BlueberryLemon Thyme Smash.

experience in the heart of the 2nd Street District. SWIFT’S ATTIC

315 Congress Ave. (512) 482 8842 Overlooking Congress Avenue, Swift’s Attic draws from global inspirations and serves up inventive cocktails in a historic downtown building. TRACE

SECOND

200 Lavaca St. (512) 542 3660

Another venture from Chef David Bull, Second offers a casual bistro

At W Austin, TRACE focuses on responsiblyand locally-sourced ingredients from Texan farmers and artisans.

200 Congress Ave. (512) 827 2750

HOPFIELDS

3110 Guadalupe St. (512) 537 0467 A gastropub with French inclinations and unique cocktails. JOSEPHINE HOUSE

1204 W. Lynn St. (512) 477 5584

Rustic, continental fare with an emphasis on fresh local and organic ingredients. Max’s Wine Dive

207 San Jacinto Blvd. (512) 904 0111 An elegant take on latenight comfort food. Its unfussy yet sophisticated dishes complement an extensive, daily-rotating wine list. MULBERRY

360 Nueces St. (512) 320 0297 tribeza.com

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(512) 542 9542

TRIO

98 San Jacinto Blvd. (512) 685 8300 This sleek space with a lovely trellised patio overlooks Lady Bird Lake from its perch in the Four Seasons Hotel. UNCORKED TASTING ROOM AND WINE BAR

900 E. 7th St. (512) 524 2809

Build your own wine flights or choose from the carefully edited list from around the world. VINO VINO

4119 Guadalupe St. (512) 465 9282 In addition to a full menu of small and large plates, Vino Vino lives up to its name with a great wine list and wonderful cocktails. WINK

1014 N. Lamar Bvd. (512) 482 8868 The food is fantastic, and portions are meant for tasting, not gobbling. Fresh, local ingredients abound.

French BAGUETTE ET CHOCOLAT

12101 Bee Cave Rd. (512) 263 8388 Authentic French bakery and fine pastry in Austin! Delicious Nutella Crepes and Croissants. BLUE DAHLIA BISTRO

1115 E. 11th St.

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A cozy, French-inspired bistro serving up breakfast, lunch and dinner. CHEZ NOUS

510 Neches St. (512) 473 2413 Favorites include veal sweetbreads and salad Lyonnaise. Start with an assiette de charcuterie. HENRI’S CHEESE & WINE

2026 S. Lamar Blvd. (512) 442 3373 Part charcuterie, cheese and wine shop, Henri’s offers a cozy space to explore new wines or take a bottle home. JUSTINE’S BRASSERIE

4710 E. 5th St. (512) 385 2900

With its French bistro fare, impressive cocktails and charming décor, Justine’s has Austin looking east. Expect a crowd, even late at night. LENOIR

1807 S. 1st St. (512) 215 9778 French fare with a global outlook, drawing from the cuisines of India, North Africa and more. PÉCHÉ

208 W. 4th St. (512) 492 9669 Enjoy prohibition-style cocktails at Austin’s first absinthe bar, alongside standout dishes of smoked duck salad and citrus-dusted salmon.

Italian 360 UNO TRATTORIA & WINE BAR

3801 N. Capital of TX. Hwy. (512) 327 4448

Great espresso bar and a mostly Italian wine list complete with an outdoor patio for sipping. ASTI TRATTORIA

408 E. 43rd St. (512) 451 1218

The chic, little Hyde Park trattoria offers delicious Italian cuisine, like saffron risotto with seafood. THE BACKSPACE

507 San Jacinto Blvd. (512) 474 9899 Exquisite pizzas hot out of the wood-fired brick oven straight from Naples and classic antipasti. BOTTICELLI’S

1321 S. Congress Ave. (512) 916 1315 An inviting trattoria with warm Tuscan colors. Small bar up front and cozy booths in back. EAST SIDE PIES

1401 Rosewood Ave. (512) 524 0933 Specialty pies with delicious flavors, from gorgonzola and roasted onions to the infamous Guiche, with goat cheese and spinach. ENOTECA

1610 S. Congress Ave. (512) 441 7672 Superb bistro menu with panini, salad, pasta and pizza and handmade pastries.

THE GROVE WINE BAR

OLIVE & JUNE

Lively, popular Westlake wine bar and Italian restaurant. The wine list boasts more than 250 wines by the bottle.

South Italian cuisine, inspired by Chef Shawn Cirkiel’s family recipes

6317 Bee Cave Rd. (512) 327 8822

GUSTO ITALIAN KITCHEN & WINE BAR

4800 Burnet Rd. (512) 458 1100

Hearty Italian fare with big, bold flavor. HOUSE PIZZERIA

5111 Airport Blvd. (512) 600 4999

This Airport Boulevard eatery is a destination for innovative, wood-fired pizzas. LA TRAVIATA

314 Congress Ave. (512) 479 8131 A long-loved Austin spot for its fine Italian fare. Perfect spaghetti carbonara. MANDOLA’S ITALIAN MARKET

4700 W. Guadalupe St. (512) 419 9700 Casual Italian fare and a well-stocked gourmet grocery, alongside a deli, bakery and espresso and gelato bar. NORTH

11506 Century Oaks Ter., Ste. 124 (512) 339 4440 Guests enjoy modern Italian cuisine in a sleek interior at this Domain standout.

3411 Glenview Ave. (512) 467 9898

QUATTRO GATTI RISTORANTE

908 Congress Ave. (512) 476 3131 An array of mouthwatering Italian dishes, from four-cheese pizza to oven roasted rack of lamb. SIENA RISTORANTE TOSCANA

6203 Capital of Tx. Hwy. (512) 349 7667

Creative cocktails (don’t miss the Whiskey Jacket), full wine list, delicious Italian fare. A Westlake favorite. VESPAIO

1610 S. Congress Ave. (512) 441 6100 Daily rotating menus offer the best of the season and the freshest from Vespaio’s bountiful garden and local markets. A long-time Austin favorite. VIA 313 PIZZA

1111-B E. 6th St. (512) 939 1927

Set in a Tuscan-style villa, Siena captures the essence of its namesake region.

Deep-dish, Chicago-style pizza—perfect for a late night out.

SPARTAN PIZZA

1315 W. 6th St. (512) 582 1027

1104 E. 6th St. (512) 484 0798

For thin-crust, New Yorkstyle aficionados, Spartan is your East Austin go-to. TAVERNA

258 W. 2nd St. (512) 477 1001 Taverna’s menu boasts sophisticated salads, pastas, pizzas and trademark risottos. TRATTORIA LISINA

13308 FM 150 W. Driftwood, TX. (512) 894 3111

Nestled in the Mandola Estate Winery in Driftwood. Expect hearty portions of rustic Italian food. TRENTO

3600 N. Capital of Texas Hwy (512) 328 7555

WINFLO OSTERIA

Classic Italian fare made simply and with locally sourced ingredients.

Latin America AZUL TEQUILA

4211 S. Lamar Blvd. (512) 416 9667 An exquisite variety of South Central Mexican fare, including the famous Chile Rellano en Crema. BUENOS AIRES CAFÉ

1201 E. 6th St. (512) 382 1189 13500 Galleria Cir. Ste. 120 (512) 441 9000 Argentinean specialties like meat sandwiches on baguettes, empanadas and tasty pastries.


CANTINA LAREDO

201 W. 3rd St. (512) 542 9670

Authentic Mexican food. For the guacamole starter, we licked the bowl clean. CHUY’S

1728 Barton Springs Rd. (512) 474 4452 10520 N. Lamar Blvd. (512) 836 3218 4301 William Cannon Dr. (512) 899 2489 Often a long wait for this beloved, packed cantina. The pillowy, fried flautas are the best in town. CORAZON AT CASTLE HILL

1101 W. 5th St. (512) 476 0728

Inspired by kitchens across Central Mexico. CURRA’S GRILL

614 E. Oltorf St. (512) 444 0012

Delicious interior Mexican food in a casual environment. EL ALMA

1025 Barton Springs Rd. (512) 609 8923 Chef-driven, authentic Mexican cuisine. EL CHILE CAFÉ Y CANTINA

1809 Manor Rd. (512) 457 9900

An intersection of Tex-Mex and interior Mexican cuisine. Many great sauces enhance delicious dishes. EL CHILITO

2225 Manor Rd. (512) 382 3797

Little brother to El Chile, El Chilito offers a pareddown menu of made-toorder items.

A flavorful modern Mexican menu inspired by the kitchen of Chef Garrido’s grandmother.

After 55 years, this Austin classic is still going strong. Start with the Bob Armstrong Dip.

Family-run institution on the East Side with a loyal following.

EL MESON TEQUILERIA

GLORIA’S

MI MADRE’S RESTAURANT

1306 E. 6th St. (512) 479 1306

2038 S. Lamar Blvd (512) 442 4441

Family recipes and fresh ingredients in this South Austin kitchen. EL NARANJO

85 Rainey St. (512) 474 2776

3309 Esperanza Crossing, Ste. 100 (512) 833 6400 Perfect for date night at the Domain, Gloria’s serves upscale Mexican cuisine and offers a spacious patio.

Iliana de la Vega and Ernesto Torrealba, the husband and wife team behind El Naranjo, serve up authentic cuisine from Mexico’s interior.

GUERO’S TACO BAR

EL SOL Y LA LUNA

LA CONDESA

As quintessentially Austin as it gets. Great migas and fresh juices.

Delectable cocktails, tasty tacos and appetizers, all inspired by the hip and bohemian Condesa neighborhood in Mexico City.

600 E. 6th St. (512) 444 7770

FONDA SAN MIGUEL

2330 W. N. Loop Blvd. (512) 459 4121

1412 S. Congress Ave. (512) 447 7688 No frills tacos. Try the Queso Flameado with chorizo and jalapeños.

In a city as loyal to the breakfast taco, it’s hard to name the best one—but this familyowned spot has earned the title from the Austin Chronicle. NUEVO LEÓN

1501 E. 6th St. (512) 479 0097

Nestled in a converted house on East Sixth, Papi Tino’s serves up modern Mexican cuisine and an impressive selection of delicious mezcals. PELONS

802 Red River St. (512) 243 7874 Elegant Mexican cuisine in a rustic home with an enchanting patio.

2004 S. 1st St. (512) 441 5446 Between the salsa bar, patio seating, and delicious margaritas, this is one of Austin’s beloved Tex-Mex icons. RIO RITA CAFÉ Y CANTINA

1308 E. 6th St. (512) 524 0384

A cozy coffee shop during the day and a romantic dinner spot in the evening. SANTA RITA TEX-MEX CANTINA

1206 W. 38th St. (512) 419 7482

400 W. 2nd St. (512) 499 0300

For over 30 years, Austinites have flocked to Fonda San Miguel for a traditional, interior Mexican menu. A curated wine list that pairs well. Reservations recommended!

MAUDIE’S CAFE Five locations delivering delicious, solid Tex-Mex in a fun, laid-back family friendly atmosphere. Maudies.com

FRESA’S CHICKEN AL CARBON

915 N. Lamar Blvd. (512) 428 5077

310 Congress Ave. (512) 472 7555 10201 Jollyville Rd. (512) 345 1042

Savor slow-grilled Peeler Farms chicken from this colorful drive-through eatery, alongside fresh salsas, salads, tortillas and homemade ice creams.

Not your usual Tex-Mex, more international interior Mexican fare. The chile relleno bursts with shredded pork and walnut cream sauce.

GARRIDO’S

MATT’S EL RANCHO

360 Nueces St. (512) 320 8226

2201 Manor Rd. (512) 322 9721

PAPI TINO’S

POLVO’S

MANUEL’S

2613 S. Lamar Blvd. (512) 462 9333

CULINARY ADVENTURES Team-building exercises, hands-on cooking lessons and fully catered events for food enthusiasts utilizing the school’s 9,000 square foot garden, commercial kitchens, and dining room.

For more information contact: Special Events Manager, Nancy Marr 512-451-5743 / nmarr @ escoffier.edu 6020-B Dillard Circle Austin, Texas 78752 / escoffier.edu

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5900 W. Slaughter Ln. Ste. 550 (512) 288 5100 Fresh ingredients, traditional recipes, outstanding margaritas combined with bright interiors, attentive service, and solid menu offerings. TAKOBA

1411 E. 7th St. (512) 628 4466 Bold, authentic flavors with ingredients imported straight from Mexico. VIVO

2015 Manor Rd. (512) 482 0300 Fresh plates with a lighter hand.

Lunch Spots THE COUNTER CAFÉ

626 N. Lamar Blvd. (512) 708 8800

This breakfast and lunchtime favorite serves up organic and local fare.

609 W. 6th St. (512) 542 3380

This charming Sixth Street destination is equal parts café, bakery and flower shop. Perfect for packing a picnic!

Seafood CAFÉ JOSIE

1200-B W. 6th St. (513) 322 9226 Tropic-inspired seafood dishes in a vibrant, colorful interior. CLARK’S OYSTER BAR

1200 W. 6th St. (512) 297 2525

Larry McGuire’s latest venture offers an extensive caviar and oyster menu—a refreshing indulgence on Sixth Street. EDDIE V’S PRIME SEAFOOD & STEAK

FOODHEADS

9400 Arboretum Blvd. (512) 342 2642 301 E. 5th St. (512) 472 1860

Fresh, inspired sandwiches, soups and salads in a charming, refashioned cottage.

Though known for fresh seafood, Eddie V’s prime steaks are some of the best in town.

NOBLE SANDWICH CO.

PERLA’S SEAFOOD & OYSTER BAR

616 W. 34th St. (512) 420 8400

11815 620 N. (512) 382 6248

Gourmet sandwiches with a commitment.

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may 2013 tribeza.com

1400 S. Congress Ave. (512) 291 7300 Expect the freshest fish and oysters flown in daily from both coasts,

carefully prepared with simple yet elegant flavors. QUALITY SEAFOOD

5621 Airport Blvd. (512) 454 5828

Austin’s premier retail seafood market, offering the freshest catch. TRULUCK’S

400 Colorado St. (512) 482 9000 10225 Research Blvd. (512) 794 8300 Seafood and steak lovers alike will love the weeklyrotating chef-inspired menu.

Southwestern SOUTHWESTERN RANCH 616

616 Nueces St. (512) 479 7616

Chef Kevin Williamson delivers on wild game, steaks and fresh seafood with a lively atmosphere. SOUTH CONGRESS CAFE

1600 S. Congress Ave. (512) 447 3905 This SoCo staple draws quite a crowd whether for lunch, dinner or the weekend crowd with its classic brunch fare. TACOS AND TEQUILA

507 Pressler St. (512) 436 8226

Chef Alma Alcocer is serving up a taste of the Southwest in this modern, industrial space.

Z’TEJAS GRILL

1110 W. 6th St. (512) 478 5355 9400-A Arboretum Blvd. (512) 346 3506 Austinites wait hours to get into either the funkier downtown locale or the northern spot.

Steak III FORKS

111 Lavaca St. (512) 474 1776 Traditional steakhouse menu with seafood choices and lobster tails. AUSTIN LAND & CATTLE CO.

1205 N. Lamar Blvd. (512) 472 1813 This Austin favorite boasts an impressive wine list to pair with sophisticated entrees. BOB’S STEAK & CHOP HOUSE

301 Lavaca Street (512) 222 2627

Traditional American prime meats and seafood. FINN & PORTER

500 E. 4th St. (512) 493 4900

Dazzles with steaks, chops, seafood, and sushi. Nestled inside the downtown Hilton Hotel. FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR

320 E. 2nd St.

(512) 457 1500 11600 Century Oaks Ter. Ste. 140 (512) 835 9463 Excellent food, stellar wines, pleasant atmosphere and polished staff. PERRY’S STEAKHOUSE & GRILLE

114 W. 7th St. Ste. 110 (512) 474 6300

Start with the escargot or a lump crab cake. The main event, the steaks, are cooked to order and delicious. RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE

CASA DE LUZ

1701 Toomey Rd. (512) 476 2535 Take yoga or tai chi classes before or after dining at this macrobiotic joint. COUNTER CULTURE

2337 E. Cesar Chavez St. (512) 524 1540 An East Austin haven for vegans and vegetarians. DAILY JUICE

4500 Duval St. (512) 380 9046 Pop by this fresh juice and smoothie stand after a run or before a swim.

107 W. 6th St. (512) 477 7884

MOTHER’S CAFE & GARDEN

The USDA Prime Steaks seared to perfection and topped with fresh butter are the ultimate steak lover’s experience.

Everything beyond the garden variety, from veggie burgers to lasagna.

SULLIVAN’S STEAKHOUSE

300 Colorado St. (512) 495 6504 Steak and potatoes. Music at the Ringside. Cocktails in the bar.

Vegetarian BOULDIN CREEK CAFÉ

1900 S. 1st St. (512) 416 1601

Affordable and wholesome vegetarian cuisine, including soups, salads and sandwiches.

4215 Duval St. (512) 451 3994

To submit a restaurant for inclusion in the TRIBEZ A Dining Guide, or to submit corrections, please contact us by email at calendar@ tribeza.com.


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our little secret

Daniel Olivella & Vanessa Jerez’s Veracruz All Natural Veracruz All Natural 1704 E. Cesar Chavez (512) 981 1760 veracruzallnatural.com

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S

ix years ago, I came to Texas and traveled across the state, teaching cooking classes in new cities every week. Along the way, we stopped in Austin. For years, my wife, Vanessa, and I had been working in the restaurant business in San Francisco, but we saw the growing restaurant scene in Austin and how open-minded the city was—it was exactly what we were looking for. Soon, we packed everything in the truck, sold the house and drove all the way here. It was the beginning of our Austin adventure. At first, the restaurants were a mystery to us, and we were always looking for good, authentic eateries, whether tacos or sushi or dim sum. One day, my oldest daughter, who is 13 years

old, came home thrilled about a new taco truck she had discovered with her friends. It was one of those places off the beaten path that end up being the best ones— and we’ve been going to Veracruz All Natural once a week ever since. Let me clarify: my wife and I are from Spain, so we don’t come to here to find Spanish food. Our own cuisine at our upcoming restaurant, Barlata, will be very different and include 50 to 60 different tapas, from piquillo peppers to rabbit. But after being in the restaurant business for many years, eating out becomes not a necessity but a pleasure—and often, the simpler, the better. Here, at Veracruz All Natural, everything is done right. The ingredients are fresh, and the ladies make all their own tortillas, salsa and guacamole. Every week, you’ll find us on that bustling corner of Cesar Chavez and Chicon, savoring our staple migas and fish tacos. Even the neighborhood itself is full of culture. As you drive along Cesar Chavez, you’ll see vibrant Latino grocery stores and dozens of piñatas hanging in the doorways—much like the beautiful Missions of San Francisco, where I spent many years. It’s in this atmosphere that we feel most at home, because after being surrounded by food all day, dining out should be simple and enjoyable. For us, it’s about good food and authenticity. daniel olivella Chef Daniel Olivella and his wife, Vanessa Jerez, are co-owners of Barlata, a colorful Spanish tapas bar set to open this summer on South Lamar. P h oto g r a p h y by a n n i e r ay


Shown: the delicious Big bed.

REST EASY, THERE’S NOT A

SINGLE

CARVED PI N E APPLE

FINIAL IN SIGHT.

115 West 8th Street Austin 512.480.0436 scottcooner.com



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