Screw it Wine – Issue 7

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No. 7 | March 2022 | $4 PLUS: THE WINERIES OF ELKIN | ELEPHANTS CORNER WINES | STATE OF GRAZE OREGON’S UTOPIA WINERY | A LOOK AT UNIQUE WINE CELLARS | WINE 101 A MUSCADINE LUNCHEON | CALIFORNIA WINEMAKERS INVADE RALEIGH PAGE 10 COMING SOON TO SWAN CREEK AVA DYNAMIS ESTATE WINES + CASTELLO BARONE

Chardonnay for Under $20

Elephants Corner Wines

Wine Cellars

Coming Soon to Swan Creek

On the Road: Elkin

On the Menu

Across State Lines

Wine writer Dave Nershi takes a look at Oregon’s Utopia Winery.

This month’s cover features Katy Kidd, one of the winemakers at Dynamis Estate Wines. Kidd, along with Mat Worrell will be making wines that will be a part of the ever growing Swan Creek AVA. This photo is courtesy of Jennie Hess and Dynamis Estate Wines.

2 SCREW IT WINE CONTENTS 3
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Looking for Chardonnay you can buy for under $20? We have some options.
Wine 101 The appearance of your wine can be just as important as its taste. 6
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Bringing unique South African wines to North Carolina is Andy Woolgar’s goal.
9
In
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Cool
CellArt brings together engineering and a love of wine for one-of-a-kind wine cellars.
From Merlot 2 Muscadine
this new series, we follow Arthur Barham around on his NC Wine adventures.
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You’ll soon see new wineries coming to the Swan Creek AVA.
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Inside the Yadkin Valley AVA you’ll find these wineries all within the town of Elkin.
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Julie Fletcher decided to quit her corporate world job and focus on charcuterie.
ON
THE COVER
10 15 06 SCREW IT WINE | ISSUE #7 | MARCH 2022 PUBLISHER Triangle Around Town LLC PRESIDENT Jennifer
EDITOR Dathan
GRAPHIC DESIGNER Dathan Kazsuk
Arthur Barham, Dan
Primrose
Kazsuk
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS David Nershi,
McLaughlin
THANKS TO Andrew Woolgar, Hailey Klepcyk, Piccione Vineyards, Scott and Elizabeth Barone, Jennie Hess, Dynamis Vineyards, David Nershi, Arthur Barham, Mary Barham, Thomas Salley, Kyle Doss, Empire Distribution, Triangle Wine Company, Julie Fletcher, State of Graze, Dan McLaughlin, Alison Breen, The Tasting Room

7 Outstanding Chardonnays

Probably one of the most popular grape varietals globally, Chardonnay started in France and today can be grown on almost every continent.

Dominant in Burgundy. Oakless in Chablis. Used in Champagne. Grown in over 30 U.S. states. Chardonnay pairs well with seafood and spicy dishes. It’s prevalent yet received much backlash. Everyone has an opinion on the grape. Love it or hate it.

While the most expensive bottle of Chardonnay sold for over $11,000 as one of the last bottles of Chateau Montelena’s “Judgment of Paris” wines, one can usually find an excellent Chardonnay for anywhere between $15 to $50.

While selecting a Chardonnay, tastes can lie anywhere between toasty and oaky to unoaked and crisp.

But even with Chardonnay’s popularity, some bottle shops try to ween “butterheads” off the wine. “Chardonnay is something we sell the least of,” says Alison Breen, manager at the Tasting Room in the Arts District of downtown Winston-Salem.

“We really try to get people out of their comfort zone, so Chardonnay can be a fun little game,” she says. Some of that fun is leading people from buttery Chardonnays to full-bodied whites such as a Roussane or Chenin Blanc.

Breen admits that the Tasting Room sells more unoaked Chardonnay than its buttery cousin, and one of her favorites is an unoaked wine from Piemonte, Italy. The Tasting Room’s shelves are constantly changing, but according to Breen, there are many great options under $20.

Other favorites of the shop include Chardonnay from Lockhart (California), Volpe Pasini (Italy), Decoded (Russian River Valley) and Legendary (Romania).

for under $ 20

Screw it Wine recently selected these great value Chardonnay wines that all cost under $20 per bottle. Remember, this is subjective – we aren’t saying these are “the best.” We are expressing for their price point, they are valued wines worth picking up the next time you are at your local bottle shop.

A TO Z WINEWORKS CHARDONNAY

This Oregon Chardonnay has many great tastes you are looking for in a Chardonnay. Pineapple, citrus, melon and crushed rocks are just a few tastes to fill the palate — bright, juicy and lots of gracious acidity. Try this wine with a dish of Baja fish tacos, and you’re in Heaven.

DOMAINE BOUSQUET GRANDE RESERVE CHARDONNAY Many might not know this, but Argentina produces some lovely Chardonnay. Bold, dry and acidic are three great descriptors of this wine. Tropical notes flourish with each taste of pineapple, melon and crisp apples. But your taste buds also latch onto some of the oaky and buttery flavors as well. We recommend grilled salmon as a perfect pairing.

KENDALL-JACKSON VINTER’S RESERVE CHARDONNAY Sure, this is a big-name wine producer, and you’ll find this in both local bottle shops and grocery stores –but they’ve been doing it right for over 29 years. This wine is fruit-forward and complex while being well-balanced. Kendall-Jackson’s Vinter’s Reserve features a nice creaminess with hints of vanilla and pear. If you are lucky, you can find this wine for under $15.

LINCOURT STEEL CHARDONNAY Want to avoid oak, vanilla and butter? Then you’ll want to buy Lincourt’s Stainless Steel Chardonnay. Crisp and clean with kiwi, lemon, honey, and apple hints will keep you wanting more. This wine may contain a small amount of Gruner Veltliner for a bit of sweetness.

NOAH RIVER CHARDONNAY If you are looking for a solid Chardonnay, look no further than Noah River’s white wine, which features hints of ripe pear, citrus, lychee and some toasted oak. It’s a fullbodied wine that we think both fans of oak and stainless steel can agree on. We enjoy the lingering taste of green apple and mouth-watering acidity.

RAEBURN RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY

CHARDONNAY Taking its name from old English terminology meaning “the river where one goes to drink,” this Chardonnay is an excellent value for its price point. We got a little bit of yeast in the taste and citrus, butter and believe it or not, bananas. The creaminess in this wine would make it pair well with vegetarian dishes with avocado or beets.

ZUCCARDI Q CHARDONNAY We go back to Argentina for this impressive Chardonnay from legendary Zuccardi. Taste this wine, and you will understand why James Suckling gave this 92 points. Vanilla and oak run rampant. White peaches, apples and fresh pineapple mixing with that creamy finish make this a perfect wine for grilled pork or chicken.

In conclusion, the range of this grape makes it easy for most everyone to find a Chardonnay they’re looking to drink. Oaked Chardonnay will satisfy drinkers looking for that toasty vanilla and traces of butter. Want more crisp and acid in your Chardonnay? Then look for stainless steel Chardonnay, or pick up a French Chablis.

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SHOPPING FOR A CHARDONNAY?

Wine’s sight and appearance

If you know me, you know that I always say wine is meant to be paired with food.

But another thing one must know when delving into the world of wine is what I consider Step #1 –and that is the sight and appearance of that wine you just poured in your glass.

It has somewhat changed in the past couple of years with the recent popularity of natural wines. But that’s another time, another place. Let’s take a look at the majority of wines you will be purchasing at your local wine shop or grocery store.

Looking closely at your wine in the glass seems like a no-brainer, but it can be overlooked very easily.

The appearance of your wine can help alert you to the “faultiness” in that bottle you just purchased.

In this new segment, we will explore the basics of wine. Jennifer Primrose and I will ask some of our friends who just happen to know a thing or two about wine to share their insight and help you along your path. Whether you are a novice or an expert, we’re hoping this section will give you some valuable information.

It seems like such an obvious thing, but the appearance of that wine in your glass is significant.

Let us start with cloudiness. This may be no fault of the wine if you are pouring an unfiltered wine – but if that’s not the case, and your wine pours with a milky opaqueness - be aware. This wine may be impaired.

Another thing to look for when you pour that glass is if your wine is separated or watery. What does that mean? For example, if your red wine is red at the bottom of the glass and clear at the top –there could be an issue with that bottle. That can stem from a temperature control or storage facility issue during transport.

This is going to sound strange – and it is. If you see this next issue, you more than likely have a problem with your wine.

If you pour a glass and it is foaming, you have a problem. Unless you pour sparkling wine, your still wine should have no foam present. This more than likely means that bottle has been infected with bacteria that has contaminated your wine.

Usually, this stems from bacteria, but it can also come from corkage or keeping your wine stored for too long at inadequate storage temperatures.

If you pour a glass of wine and see crystals floating around the bottle of the drink, just know that it isn’t necessarily a fault. If you want to continue to enjoy that

appearance of your wine can be just as important as the taste of your wine.

bottle, you may just try to filter the wine or drink around the crystals.

These are known as tartrate crystals –and they are hard, salty and taste pretty bad. So don’t eat those. But don’t drain pour your wine because of these pesky crystals.

Now say you find a large portion of the cork or sediment in your wine. What do you do next? Actually, your wine may be just wine, but you might want to spend a little more time examing the wine to make sure it is suitable to drink. Smell and assess. That’s what I say. Most of the time, your wine will be just fine.

But suppose you want to go into a further examination. In that case, I suggest taking a plain sheet of white paper and holding your glass at a 45-degree angle with the paper underneath. It is safe to drink if you don’t see much sediment. If you see sediment or cork, you can pluck it out if you need to, but just know, it won’t kill you if you drink a few pieces of cork.

This leads to another point: the color descriptors in wine.

If you are opening up a bottle of white wine, you will want a few primary descriptors when you examine that glass. They include having your wine be clear, light-pale, greenish, straw-like, yellow, golden/brassy – and even amber or orange in color.

With red wines, you are looking for color descriptors such as ruby, brick red, garnet, crimson/blood red, purple, black, and in some cases, brown.

With a rosé wine, there are a lot fewer color descriptors. Be on the lookout for

colors such as pink, salmon, orange, light red, orange and even an almost clear color.

Once you have selected the color of your wine, that can also help you choose some other factors about that wine.

Wines aged in oak after fermenting will gather “oak tannins,” which can darker the wine into its dark red or golden color.

Wine aged on its lees (or the yeast that has died after fermentation is complete) also changes the color of that bottle of wine. It can exhibit a darker color or even a darker shade of hay, straw or golden color.

Finally, sugar and alcohol can be a contributing factor. You can see that right away when swirling your glass and checking out the wine’s “legs” or “tears.”

This is the liquid that adheres to the side of the glass upon swirling and slowly makes its way back down to the wine below.

Wines that contain higher amounts of sugar or alcohol will have more vicious and noticeable legs. This will alert you that this wine will be more extensive and full-bodied.

Take all these into consideration when you open up your next bottle of wine, and you’ll be on your way to becoming an expert!

Kazsuk is the manager at Triangle Wine Company Raleigh, located at 1540 Dunn Road, Suite 170. He is also the author of Cary Magazine’s Liquid Assets beer column and co-founder of Triangle Around Town LLC and Hop Around NC. He can be reached at dathankazsuk@gmail.com.

4 SCREW IT WINE
SURE YOU LOOK CLOSELY AT THE WINE YOU
BACK TO THE BASICS – WINE 101 TRIANGLEAROUNDTOWN.COM
MAKING
ARE ABOUT TO TASTE IS VERY IMPORTANT
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Finding its mark in N.C.

It takes passion for making your business a success, and that’s precisely what Andy Woolgar of Elephants Corner is doing – bringing a line of greattasting South African wines to North Carolina.

Along with his business partner Clint Saint, Woolgar is ready to show that it is not all about California, Italy or even France when describing wines as stellar or to die for.

“The idea of Elephants Corner came about through my business partner asking me if I was happy with what I was doing,” Woolgar says.

At the time, Woolgar was working for a local distributor and decided that he wanted to do more. He wanted to do something to highlight the wines from South Africa that he was akin to in the past.

Woolgar has obtained an almost “cultlike” status previously as the face behind another South African winery, Rickety Bridge. He made contacts across the state, informing both wine shops and wine drinkers of the importance of South African wine.

“I think that it shows that people here buy into the quality of the wines of South Africa for its value,” he says. “Also, my love for what I’m doing. As far as I’m concerned, they are the best wines out there.”

Woolgar does his best to share his passion for South African wines through education and knowledge. For him, it is all about the stories he conveys at tastings or wine dinners – each winery, each wine has a story behind it, and for Woolgar, if he doesn’t portray that while pouring wine, he isn’t doing his job.

Elephants Corner brings some of the best South African wines to North Carolina, featuring wines from De Kleine Wijn Koöp, Mont Rochelle, Strydom and Camberley vineyards. These wineries showcase South Africa’s Western Cape,

and as vegan-friendly options, are wines that will make everyone from a novice to expert enjoy the possibilities.

De Kleine Wijn Koöp’s headed by winemaker and co-owner Wynard Grobler, is also a key ingredient to Elephants Corner. “When I initially talked to Saint, I said yes, but I wouldn’t do it without Grobler,” Woolgar says. “I knew that he wanted some market presence in the U.S. Between De Kleine Wijn, Mont Rochelle and Camberley, that was what we basically started with.”

From the citrus-forward Sauvignon Blancs and crisp Chenin Blancs to old vine Cinsault and Pinotage wines, Elephants Corner was up and running by June of 2020.

Currently, Elephants Corner’s wines can be found in over 55 wine shops and 35 restaurants across the state.

“We started Elephants Corner right in the middle of Covid, and at that time, South Africa was struck with four complete lockdowns,” Woolgar says. One after another, the lockdowns banned the export of cigarettes and alcohol, with wineries in the Western Cape closing left and right.

Eventually, around late December of 2020, Elephants Corner could get together a shipment sent to the states, which got Woolgar and Saint rolling. “I had a lot of previous contacts here to start our business fairly quickly,” he says. “That sort of brings us to where we are today.”

And with the end of January behind Elephants Corner, an additional 20 thousand bottles have arrived at the Winston-Salem storage facility just in time to round out winter.

Woolgar wants to let people know that all the wineries under Elephants Corner are small, independent boutique wineries. “We work with a lot of small places. They’re all very personal, and luckily for me, I know all the people behind these farms,” he says. “It’s a great pleasure and privilege to have their wines here and to be able to sell them and introduce them to people. That’s why I enjoy doing this job.”

Sometime in 2022, Woolgar will be adding a couple of new wineries to its portfolio, including Chamoxie Wine Farm and Black Elephant.

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OVER A GLASS
ELEPHANTS CORNER Clint Saint, left, and Andy Woolgar, right, make up the duo of Elephants Corner.

Enjoying wine on your yacht? Here are a few ideas during your next redesign!

Luxury in Vino

CellArt is the wine lover’s ultimate playground for extraordinary wine cellars, tasting rooms, and luxury retail environments.

The design group, led by founder Jonathan Primeau, helps build the leading design in wine, which includes one-of-a-kind wine spaces, art pieces, and finely crafted objects.

For unique art pieces, CellArt brings in some of the most talented artists to bring in their vision and savoir-faire to create eye-popping images that will have all your guests talking about your collection of vino.

All the artists involved with CellArt create the ideal conditions for your wine using a mix of horizontal positioning, proper temperature and humidity and the integration of artificial and natural elements such as sunlight.

Primeau, a Montreal native, started CellArt back in 2013, after 15 years in the IT industry. But wine, design and engineering have always been his lifelong passion –and he finally made it happen.

Now working alongside some of the best architects, sommeliers, and artists worldwide, Primeau and CellArt bring forth world-renowned inspiration.

ENGINEERING, DESIGN AND WINE PAIR WELL WHEN YOU BRING IT ALL TOGETHER

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WINE & DESIGN
PHOTOS BY CELLART | DESIGN BY FIONA DALRYMPLE
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WINE & DESIGN
PHOTO BY CELLART | DESIGN BY MICHAEL BILODEAU BALATTI, ADELE GESNOUIN & JONATHAN PRIMEAU

Winery Workshop Teaches Aromas

of identifying the subtle nuances that great wines can exhibit.

In nearly two decades as a middle school science teacher in the county public school system, I can assure you with authority that all people do not learn the same way.

For example, many individuals are visual learners and must see it to fully comprehend. In contrast, others are auditory and prefer to listen. Yet others, including myself, are kinesthetic learners and best learn by doing the task. The bottom line is one shoe doesn’t truly fit all, and education must be delivered on an individual tailormade basis to be truly effective.

Another significant revelation I have recently is that you can not relate to experiences or events you have never taken part in. It is hard to share with a person who has never been a parent the sheer joy of childbirth. To someone who has never flown on a plane, that exhilaration of your first plane ride is indescribable.

These two epiphanies may seem totally unrelated to you, but both were front and center for my friends and me as we participated in the “Taste and Aroma Workshop” recently conducted at Piccione Vineyards in Ronda, North Carolina.

Under the tutelage of Tasting Room Manager Hailey Klepcyk and Vineyard Manager Dustin Gentry, we sampled

several varietals before the experts at Piccione blended them. All the time, we were entertained in the winery’s barn, surrounded by Bill Piccione’s impressive antique car collection.

More importantly, we learned how to describe flavors on our palate and aromas that enticed our olfactory senses as we sipped, smelled, and swirled our way through an array of enticing wines. Our exceptional lineup included Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Vermentino and even a Rosé of Sagrantino.

But what I considered a true stroke of genius and a reminder to teach individuals concepts the way they learn best was a tackle box filled with jellybeans!

Each participant was provided a small tackle box with each compartment containing flavored jellybeans from orange to lemon and even buttered popcorn. These flavored delights delivered a “frame of reference” for the palates of those who had experienced certain flavors and perhaps were unsure if these tastes and aromas were present in the wines we sampled.

We were also provided small samples of sliced lemon and lime, three varieties of sliced apples, sliced strawberry and whole raspberry, as well as sliced pear and pineapple.

We were even provided small samples of coconut and raw honey, all in the pursuit

Another revelation during this workshop was that people can not describe wine in terms that they have not experienced. Although flavors like apple, pear, lemon, and orange may be familiar to the palate of many, certain other more exotic flavors such as guava, mango, papaya, and kiwi may be unfamiliar to many. I have heard the term “lychee” used to describe tastes and aromas in wine, but this is foreign to me since I have never sampled this fruit.

Each of us was also provided with a wine aroma wheel, which further helped us distinguish between wine subtleties such as spice, minerality, and floral characteristics. For many novice wine drinkers, visual aids like this can significantly increase their confidence when tasting wine.

Wine tasting is an individual experience influenced by a myriad of factors and variables. Workshops like this can help people hone their skills, build their confidence, and hopefully entice them to pursue more opportunities to expand their palates.

Learning how to taste and experience wine is a journey, not a destination. The more I expand my palate and embrace the diversity of wine and varietals, the more I appreciate what Robert Louis Stevenson meant when he said, “Wine is bottled poetry.”

Arthur Barham and his Merlot2Muscadine can be found on Instagram at Merlot2Muscadine, as well as online at www.merlot2muscadine.com.

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MERLOT 2 MUSCADINE
TASTING ROOM MANAGER AND VINEYARD MANAGER INFORM WINE LOVERS ABOUT THE OLFACTORY SYSTEMS IMPORTANCE ON DRINKING WINE
FROM
MERLOT2MUSCADINE Piccione Vineyards guided wine drinkers through a class of wine aromas; Tasting Room Manager Hailey Klepcyk and Merlot2Muscadine’s Arthur Barham.

coming soon to the

SWAN CREEK AVA

North Carolina’s Swan Creek

AVA is home to many of the state’s premier and well-known wineries. From the old dairy farm that is now Laurel Gray Vineyards to the immaculate Italian villa that houses Raffaldini Vineyards, this American Viticultural Area looks towards its future.

Head to this AVA, and you’ll find a clump of wineries all within a 10-mile radius of one another. To the far north of the AVA is Midnight Magdalena, and at its southernmost tip, Shadow Springs Vineyard. Between those locations, other than Laurel Gray and Raffaldini, wine lovers will find Windsor Run Cellars, Dobbins Creek Vineyards as well as Piccione Vineyards.

With seven wineries in a short distance of travel time, it is one of the closest things to Napa’s Silverado Trail, where hundreds of wineries lay in close conjunction with one another.

And looking into Swan Creek’s crystal

ball, the ball is about to erupt with a handful of new wineries which plan on opening within the next year or two. Chateau Jourdain, Sotrio, Geori, Castello Barone and Dynamis Estate Winery are expected to give the AVA new life and add an Italian and French twist to what’s already populating the vines currently.

With a latitude of around 36 degrees north, which allows for more sun, longer growing seasons, and many different microclimates, these future wineries will thrive in some of the state’s most ideal conditions for growing grapes.

DYNAMIS ESTATE WINERY

Like Zeus observing from the top of Mount Olympus, wine lovers will soon get to experience Dynamis Estate Wines. Led by the dynamic winemaking duo of Katy Kidd and Mat Worrell, Dynamis will be the AVAs highest resting winery sitting between 1,600 to 1,700 feet above sea level.

Dynamis Estate Winery features 30 acres of grapevines. It produces all five

Katy Kidd, above, and Mat Worrell, right, are the winemaking tagteam with Dynamis Estate Winery.

of the Bordeaux red varietal grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec, as well as Sauvignon Blanc. The winery’s viticulturist is Joseph Geller, who has spent over a decade in the field and has spent time in some of California’s premier areas such as Napa, Sonoma, Monterey and Paso Robles.

Experience from the winemaking tandem of Kidd and Worrell stems from their time with Raffaldini Vineyards also in the Swan Creek AVA, where Kidd rose from the ranks of an intern to winemaker in her six years with the premier winery owned by NC wine

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DATHAN KAZSUK Jay Raffaldini could be considered by many as the patriarch of the Swan Creek AVA.
WITH NORTH CAROLINA LOOKING TO GET ON THE NATIONAL MAP FOR WINES, THIS AVA BRINGS IN NEW WINERIES TO HELP IN THE CHALLENGE

patriarch Jay Raffaldini.

Worrell states that while at Raffaldini when the opportunity arose for him and Kidd to participate in this new endeavor, they both were eager for the chance.

“It was in March of 2019, and this is almost like a chef-owned restaurant, but a winemaker-owned winery,” Worrell says. “Katy and I have worked together for six years now, so we have really good synergy.”

“At the time, I had just had my daughter and was looking for something different,” Kidd states. “This was a great opportunity, and the fruit

up here is unlike anything else in the Swan Creek AVA.”

The name Dynamis, as Worrell says, is something that emanated from the property manager and main shareholder, who wanted a luxury wine brand name. “He wanted us to be unlike any other wine brand on the East Coast,” Worrell adds. “We researched some powerful short names in the same vein as Opus 1.”

And it was Dynamis that stuck. An ancient Greek word that roughly translates to the potential to gain limitless power – and a name the winery wants to portray in its wine styles.

Worrell says the winery’s bread and butter will be its signature red blends, but Dynamis Estate will also offer limited single varietal wines, such as a 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon. “We plan always to have two blends, but given the climate, each year could present some challenges,” he says.

The winery also sells fruit to a handful of local wineries in the area, such as Raffaldini and Castello Barone Vineyards – and produces around 100 tons a year in grapes. “We have around five main clients, and maybe a few other smaller guys as well, but we are going to do around 2,000 cases per year of our wines,” Worrell says.

Dynamis Estate Wines hopes to open in May of 2022 for appointment tastings only. “Our tasting room is in a renovated historic building on the property with lots of outdoor seating,” says the winery’s director of hospitality, Jennie Hess. “We have two fireplaces outside and one inside, and eventually, we’ll build a new tasting room. But for now, it’s primarily outdoor seating with a terrace.”

After opening, the winery will collaborate with a local bakery/kitchen to bring in lunch boxes with seasonal menu items, incorporating some of the local fruit trees such as apples and peaches also grown on the property.

The Pantheon of the Swan Creek, Dynamis Estate, will be a welcomed addition to some of the state’s wellknown winery destinations.

CASTELLO BARONE VINEYARDS

In 2023 wine lovers who frequent the Swan Creek AVA will be introduced to Castello Barone Vineyards and Winery. Owners and winemakers Scott and Elizabeth Barone will take their passion for wine and erect a winery and tasting room just a stone’s throw from Raffaldini and Piccione’s tasting rooms.

Scott, who started home brewing, eventually commenced making wine through encouragement from Elizabeth, who wasn’t a beer drinker. All this occurred while the couple was still living in sunny Florida.

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PHOTOS C/O DYNAMIS ESTATE WINERY PHOTOS C/O VISIT WILKESBORO | TRIANGLE AROUND TOWN

COVER STORY

While Florida isn’t known for its wineries, Scott pondered the big question.

Where was he going to get grapes from in Florida? He wasn’t keen on wine kits, so where to look?

“I found a group in the Tampa/St. Pete area that was a large consortium of home winemakers,” Scott says. “There was a gentleman there who sourced grapes from California by the truckload.” That eventually led to Barone making his wine and entering the Florida International Wine Competition, which brought him home a few medals.

Half-jokingly, Elizabeth informed Scott that he might consider taking this passion commercially. And with backgrounds in project management and process improvement, they both felt they had the qualities to move forward – opening up their own winery.

Raised in New York state, Scott was very familiar with the Finger Lakes region and its ideal wine-growing soils, but Elizabeth, born and raised in Florida, didn’t want to move that far north. So now it was the question, what’s next? According to Scott, California was out of the equation due to the cost of living, so they narrowed it down to the East Coast.

“We visited a handful of wineries and talked to people in both Virginia and North Carolina,” Scott says. “But we fell in love with the Swan Creek area and became friends with Jay Raffaldini of Raffaldini Vineyards.”

While still looking for land, Raffaldini reached out to Scott and told him that he had found a property nearby that they’ll love. “We now have what we affectionately call Castello Barone Vineyards and Winery.”

With 25 acres of land, Scott and Elizabeth planted the first vines in April of 2021. They are starting small with just one acre under vine – with equal ratios of Montepulciano and Vermentino. Later in 2022, they will add another 2.5 acres under vine, including Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. “The following year, we’ll expand another 2.5 acres, which will include Petit Manseng and Tannat,” he says.

Castello Barone Vineyards will feature six acres of vines and produce roughly 3,000 cases per year when it is all said and done. But, as Scott says, there will always be some room for expansion.

But those aren’t the only grapes that will be growing in the soil at the Castello. Scott and Elizabeth are keeping a few secrets to themselves for now. “Though we aren’t in a competition with anybody, we just want to have an edge on something different in this area.”

When Castello Barone opens to the public in 2023, the Swan Creek AVA will have eight operating wineries within close proximity, many of them producing wines of the same varietals.

“The idea was for all of us to have a similar grape, where we could show off our winemaking styles, as well as every winery’s terroir,” Scott says. “Even though we’re close, we have different elevations and different soils and microclimates.”

That can lead to specific weekends out to the AVA to indulge in the likes of Vermentino or Montepulciano tastings.

Tastings such as this will eventually exist inside Barone’s tasting room, set to an American barn style with a country/ rustic appearance. It is there you’ll find

Scott hard at work in the winery, which is something many winery owners are foregoing these days.

“Currently, we are doing custom crush at Raffaldini,” Scott says. “We are also sourcing grapes from here in the Swan Creek AVA as well as State Road, which is still in the Yadkin Valley AVA. But it’s important that we make our own wine and put our mark on it. It’s an investment, but it’s an investment that we think is acceptable for us.”

Being hands-on, studying viticulture nearby, and having a strong collaboration with their local wine neighbors is something that will make Castello Barone a focal point of Swan Creek immediately after opening. Scott states that showcasing the area’s terroir and what Mother Nature dishes out here in the state of North Carolina are other points they plan to offer local wine aficionados.

“We want to put North Carolina on the map, but we want to put them on the map with good quality wines.”

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PHOTO C/O SCOTT BARONE Scott and Elizabeth break ground on the future site of Castello Barone Vineyards.

ON THE ROAD

The Wineries of Elkin

VISIT ELKIN TO TAKE IN THESE 5 EXCLUSIVE NORTH CAROLINA WINERIES

Elkin, North Carolina, which lies within Surry and Wilkes counties along the Yadkin River and Big Elkin Creek, offers unique places allowing locals and visitors alike to go back to nature with hiking trails, kayaking and mountain biking. However, when it comes to the North Carolina wine scene, Elkin is conveniently located within the heart of the Yadkin Valley AVA, home to roughly 48 wineries.

Although Elkin is a mere 20-minute drive to up to 20 wineries, in this issue of On The Road, we explore five wineries located within the quaint town of Elkin. These wineries boast unique personalities, history and stories to tell.

We start our journey at Elkin Creek Vineyard, located at 318 Elkin Creek Mill Road. Established in 2008, Elkin Creek welcomed new owners in 2011, Jennifer and Nick White, along with Carrie and Louis Jeroslow. Both couples are alumni of the infamous Blue Man Group, but as fate would have it, they turned to the wine industry after discovering Elkin Creek when the White’s were married there in 2008.

The site of this vineyard is home to a historic grist mill built in 1896 and overlooks the Big Elkin Creek. When guests visit, they can expect to taste wines crafted in European styles such as French Chablis-style Chardonnay, Viognier and Mistela, a blend of Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Viognier. And for red wine fans, Elkin Creek offers Sangiovese, Chambourcin, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and a few red blends. Dessert wines include a port-style Vin Doux made in the French tradition and Vino Limone, crafted in the style of the classic Italian Limoncello.

In addition to wine tastings, guests can expand their getaway by renting a creekside cabin for the weekend and enjoying woodfired pizzas on Sundays. Elkin Creek is also a prime location for weddings and special events.

A short 3-minute drive down the road is Adagio Vineyards, located at 139 Benge Drive. As soon as the doors to the tasting room open, guests are welcomed to a warm, friendly, musicalthemed delight. With a stone fireplace, multiple tasting bars, hand-crafted violins, arts and crafts, and musical-themed décor gracing the 2,400 square foot tasting room, co-owners Jan and Tim Wahl have created a relaxed ambiance perfectly suited for sipping wine. Although both have a background in the dental industry, they have also turned their passion for wine and music into something special.

This winery opened its doors in 2014. With seven wines to choose from, many encompassing its theme with names such as Coda, Harmony, Minuet and Vivace, Adagio has a lot to offer. The vineyard is situated just under a mile from the tasting room with 8 acres of grapes. At the same time, they operate a state-of-the-art production facility located in a 3,000 square foot underground structure below the tasting room.

Varietals guests are treated to are an award-winning Chardonnay, a semi-sweet Traminette, a red blend of Merlot and Petit Verdot, an award-winning dry rosé, and Petite Verdot. Select Sunday’s feature “Tasting Notes Violin Duets” featuring owner Jan Wahl on the violin while guests enjoy sipping on their favorite Adagio wine.

Adagio Vineyards has a musical theme with its wines such as Vivace and Minuet (top), Elkin Creek has been part of the North Carolina wine scene since its inception in 2008 (middle), Carolina Heritage was North Carolina first USDA-Certified Organic winery (bottom).

FEBRUARY 2022 13

ON THE ROAD

Just up the road is Skull Camp Smokehouse, located at 2000 N Bridge Street. Although this location features a restaurant, the wines and beers of Skull Camp and Round Peak remain a focal point.

Owners Kari Heerdt and Ken Gulaian began their wine-making journey back in 2008 at Round Peak Vineyards in Mount Airy. The Skull Camp brand emerged as a fun approach to wine with Flirtation, Infatuation, Temptation, Sweet Thang and Obsession. As their passion evolved, Ken and Kari expanded to include Skull Camp Brewing. That eventually led to this Elkin location in the renovated Basin Creek General Store that now houses the Skull Camp Smokehouse.

The wines here are not only fun but approachable for wine drinkers of all types. Another fun fact with this winery is that Skull Camp was the first to can their wine in North Carolina. In addition to the sweet and semisweet wines, Skull Camp also produces fruit wines such as Tart Cherry, Sweet Cherry and Blackberry Cherry. For the dry wine drinkers, enjoy a glass of Obsession, a Cabernet Franc, or the Social House Red.

The smokehouse is a perfect stop along the journey of visiting the wineries of Elkin to grab a bite to eat and relax with a glass of wine. But don’t forget to stock up on canned wine for your next beach or camping trip!

Heading about 2 miles south into historic downtown Elkin lies an urban-style winery that is not your typical North Carolina winery. Slightly Askew Winery is located at 913 North Bridge Street and produces wines with grapes from local vineyards and juice worldwide. They offer sweet, dry, semidry and fruit wines - a little something for everyone. The menu offers up to 20 different wines for guests, from dry varietals such as Penny 4 Thoughts, stainless Chardonnay,

Cordeaux, an NC Merlot/Cab Franc blend and Pick of the Litter – a Chilean and NC Super Blend with grapes sourced from Stony Knoll Vineyards.

The names of the wines draw from the owner’s inspiration from local places, heritage, pets and family. Wine names such as Katie B Good, a Piesporter, are named after a dog named Katie, while the Bridge Street Red is named for the winery’s street. But for some fun and whimsical names, the fruit wines feature labels such as Grateful Red, Peachie Keen, Crooked Toe Blues, named after a family cat, Spiker Dude and Tattoo on the Beach.

Consider renting out the Slightly Askew House, lodging on-site, when planning a weekend away. This downtown location allows guests proximity to restaurants, hiking, biking and more. The four-bedroom, three-bath house also includes a deck and hot tub - the perfect way to end a day of wine tasting.

Just east of the town of Elkin lies the first USDA-Certified organic vineyard and winery in the state, Carolina Heritage Vineyard & Winery. It is located at 170 Heritage Vines Way. The winery was established in 2005 by Clyde and Pat Colwell, who followed their dream of owning a vineyard and winery by completing the viticulture and enology program at Surry Community College. This winery is organic, meaning there are

no animal by-products or grains used in production, and all are vegan-friendly and gluten-free.

Carolina Heritage grows both hybrid and muscadine grapes on 9 acres and an additional 1.5 acres of blueberries.

Wine styles here include Traminette, Chambourcin, Cynthiana-Chambourcin blend, Sangria, Apple Pie and Glogg, a traditional Scandinavian mulled spiced wine perfect for the holidays. There is undoubtedly something for everyone with ten wines on the tasting menu.

Also on premises is the Old Farmhouse, available for rent. This original 1928 structure was renovated in 2018 and features two bedrooms and one bath, and overlooks the vineyard and the Blue Ridge Mountains.

There you have it – a brief look at the wineries of Elkin. The next time you find yourself in this quaint little part of the state, visit these wineries. And remember to buy local.

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What is now the Skull Camp Smokehouse was once the old Basin Creek General Store. Slightly Askew makes an assortment of dry, sweet and fruit wines.

Grazing on the Success of Snacks

For Julie Fletcher, the constant aggravation of getting yelled at for 14 years of selling insurance had run its course. So, back in 2019, she decided to look for a change in her life. As a creative person at heart, she needed an outlet.

The outlet was founded while on a trip to Charlotte with her two sisters, where she experienced “charcuterie” for the first time. “I never heard of it before that day,” Fletcher says. “I went home and started making them. I know it is not a super cool story, but it just caught on. It’s fairly new, especially around these parts of North Carolina.”

These parts of North Carolina end up being Mt. Airy, where Fletcher, along with her husband, Johnny, have formed State of Graze in the heart of the small town. “To my knowledge, we’re the only ones doing this in a 20- to 30-mile radius,” she states.

Born and raised in the Mt. Airy area of North Carolina, Fletcher has taken her newfound love of charcuterie to a handful of local wineries such as Hidden Vineyard in Dobson, and Serre Vineyards, located in Mt. Airy. From boxes, boards, cups and cones, State of Graze puts together these treats, which contain meats, cheeses, nuts, fruits and other delicious goodies.

“I really enjoy doing the boards, creating grazing tables and catering weddings, but Covid put a stop to those for a bit,” Fletcher says. She states that creating cups is her favorite, but complete table design is her passion because you can do things on a large scale.

While she admits that not many others

around her are in the charcuterie business, the one thing that makes her and her husband stand out is their commercial kitchen. “There are some businesses out there that don’t use a commercial kitchen, and things like that fall under the NC Department of Agriculture, which states that a business like mine needs to be based in a commercial kitchen.”

Fletcher knows this first hand when back in 2020, someone reported her actions, which eventually led to her store located at 128 Moore Avenue in Mt. Airy.

State of Graze’s items range, depending on the number of people served or what one is looking for an afternoon out. Fruit boards range from $10 to $140, while grazing boards range from $25 to $160. Fletcher says she tries to support local and gets some of her meats and cheeses from artisan farmers in the area.

Creating these boards for guests coming into her shop and the local wineries, she must have a pairing she prefers. “I like pairing wine with Brie, and I feel it goes so well with many different wines,” she says. “And pistachio nuts pair well with a bubbly rosé.”

Fletcher explains how her father would talk about his days as a child and putting peanuts in a bottle of Pepsi to make a fizzy effect. “It’s the same with champagne and pistachios, and it makes that fizzy effect. I guess that’s a nice parallel.”

The next time you find yourself driving through Mt. Airy, maybe heading out for an afternoon of wine tastings, pay a visit to State of Graze and pick up a pre-made graze box, or buy items to make your own – your tummy will thank you.

MARCH 2022 15
CHARCUTERIE
PHOTOS C/O JULIE FLETCHER|STATE OF GRAZE
CRUSADER

The Pinot is Right!

Ribbon Ridge is the smallest Oregon winegrowing region, but its reputation for great Pinot is boundless. Ribbon Ridge is a sixmile ridge in the Chehalem Mountains region, located about 20 miles southwest of Portland and 40 miles east of the Pacific Ocean. The AVA is entirely within the Willamette Valley AVA, famed for its Pinot Noir.

“Utopia means trying to achieve perfection,” says winery founder and winemaker Dan Warnshuis. “What else would you aim for?” That’s what Warnshuis had been doing since Utopia Vineyard and Winery’s first commercial vintage in 2006. It is a family-owned producer of small-lot, premium wines specializing in world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The 18.9-acre plot of southeast-facing slopes has marine sedimentary soil. The region was a seacoast some 50 million years ago, and, as Warnshuis puts it, it’s like a strip of coastline got left behind. The finely textured soil provides excellent drainage and conditions, including ample moisture from the Pacific Ocean, resulting in exceptional grapes. As the vines struggle to get nutrients, they gain concentrated flavors and spice and floral accents.

Warnshuis’ route to winery ownership is a circuitous one. After growing up in California’s San Joaquin Valley, he attended Michigan State on a full scholarship for swimming. After graduating, he relocated to Silicon Valley to begin a successful career in technology. It was living in wine country that changed the trajectory of his life. He started as a collector, amassing thousands of bottles. Deciding to look at wine from a business perspective, he dreamed of creating his own wine label. What was a horse pasture became Utopia

Vineyard in 2002. “I knocked on the owner’s door, and he sold it to me,” Warnshuis says. “It wasn’t on the market at all … [but] this place checked all my boxes.” After the soil tests confirmed the plot’s potential, and the serendipitous sale went through, Utopia Estate Vineyard was born.

Clonal diversity is crucial to the wine capturing awards and Pinot Noir aficionados’ hearts. After three major plantings in 2002, 2005 and 2010, today’s vineyard comprises 12 different Pinot Noir clones and three low-yielding Dijon Chardonnay clones. In addition to Dijon 115, 667, and 777, Pommard, Wadensville, and Swan Pinot Noir clones, five different Heirloom clones are part of the plantings.

Making world-class Pinot Noir is far from easy. “The biggest challenge in making Pinot Noir is the thin-skinned nature of the grape, making it more susceptible to temperature fluctuation, sunburn, and botrytis as well as its propensity to be low yielding, especially in cool climates like the Pacific Northwest,” Warnshuis says. “It leaves very little room for error.”

Warnshuis personally oversees the vineyard management, the harvesting, and the winemaking process. Utopia is 100 percent dryfarmed, and the fruit is always painstakingly harvested by hand using only small snip tools to pick one bunch at a time. The notoriously finicky Pinot Noir grapes arrive at the winery in less than an hour and are placed in temperaturecontrolled storage until ready for processing.

Utopia is known for high-quality wines, and a large percentage is sold to restaurants. The annual production is 2,500 to 3,000 cases, all made onsite. Each year, the winery produces a Chardonnay, Pinot Noir Rosé, and a Pinot Noir Blanc, but is best known for its four estates Pinot Noir, each created with a distinct blend of vineyard clones.

The Estate Pinot Noir ($48) is a blend of 12 different clones, which distinguishes it from most other Pinot Noirs. Two to three Pinot Noir clones are the norm in many Oregon vineyards. To sip it is to experience the breadth of the vineyard in its bright cherry and berry flavors, aromatic bouquet, and outstanding balance.

Paradise ($65) is a reserve estate Pinot made from the best barrels from the three best blocks in the vineyard. Grapes are whole-cluster pressed, adding texture and character to the wine. The wine has a dark cherry profile with plum and savory notes and a dash of vanilla. The current vintage is 2018, but its 2016 is described as divine.

Wines are available at the tasting room or online, and past vintages are available, including the 2016 (for $75). The Clone 777 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir ($65) is a single clonal bottling of the Dijon 777 clone, one of the essential clones in the Utopia vineyard. It’s savory with spice and floral notes, and its structure lends itself to extended aging.

Visitors to Utopia (or online purchasers) get to experience Eden firsthand. Eden Estate Reserve Pinot Noir ($100) is the pinnacle of Utopia winemaking, crafted from the 100 percent Pommard clone, the building block for many Burgundy’s Grande Cru Classe wines.

The last two years have been challenging for wineries, and Utopia is no exception. “Initially there was a lot of uncertainty with the virus and that presented a challenge both with mandatory closures and a drop in tasting room visits,” Warnshuis says. “We realized that we had to adapt and that allowed us an opportunity to utilize technology for virtual visits and increased email marketing to reach our consumers. We also expanded our outdoor seating and modified the way we held our large events.

Plans are afoot for new endeavors at Utopia. “I am planning on planting some Pinot Meunière at the new vineyard and look forward to producing a sparkling wine in the next few years,” Warnshuis says. “I really like the idea of having all three Champagne varieties available to give me multiple options for the sparkling production.”

The Utopia tasting room is located 30 minutes outside Portland and offers a daily tasting flight hosted by Warnshuis. It provides a sweeping view of the vineyard and outdoor games like bocce. There are comfortable Adirondack chairs crafted out of wine barrels if you choose to soak in the surroundings and enjoy your wine.

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ACROSS STATE LINES
UTOPIA VINEYARDS AIMING FOR HEAVENLY WINE IN OREGON’S RIBBON RIDGE AVA VINOSPHERE The tasting room at Utopia Winery. VINOSPHERE Dan Warnshuis, owner of Utopia, out among the vines in his Oregon vineyard.

California, Oregon Winemakers

Bring Top-Notch Wines to Raleigh

In early February I was invited out to the Triangle Wine & Food Experience Trade Tasting at Park Point Grid Point West for an exclusive opportunity to interact with many of the TWFE’s participating winemakers and local area distributors.

The event was sponsored by Vinventions and gave me an excellent opportunity to catch up with some California winemakers I haven’t seen in months – and even years with a few others.

I arrived on time for the event that only lasted two hours. So one had to have a game plan to try as many wines as you can without getting tipsy – and searching out excellent West Coast wines to bring to the wine shop I work for.

It started off pretty slow, as many winemakers were still making their way to the event. At the main entrance, I ran into a frequent patron at my shop, and we discussed each other’s game plans.

“I have some idea of our plan,” said Mike. “We’re going to probably just do whites today. My friend is really into Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.”

“Ah. Nice plan. For me, it’s to find some new, higher-end Pinot Noir to put on our shelves,” I said. “And then catch up with some winemakers and a few distributor friends I haven’t seen in ages. Maybe sip on a Cab or two.”

Scoping out the room, I decided to start from the back and work my way to the front, beginning at Pott Wines. There I met the owner and winemaker Aaron Pott as he poured a couple of vintages into my wine glass. This winery got its start on Mt. Veeder in 2007 when it released its first vintage of Incubo and since then has been producing some of the area’s most sought-after wines. I tried Pott’s Space and Time, a Cabernet Franc and Merlot blend, a crown jewel of the winery.

Next, I checked out the wines from Pax and Monte Rio Cellars. Pax Mahle and Patrick Cappiello shared information on their wineries. The duo has many accolades in the wine world, including “Sommelier of the Year 2014” by Food & Wine Magazine.

The light and refreshing Coferment was excellent – a blend of 50 percent Petit Verdot and 50 percent Sauvignon Blanc. This organic-driven wine was aged in old wood barrels for 5 months. I also enjoyed the 2021 Trousseau Gris from Pax. Both lower ABV wines are getting me ready for some more robust reds to come.

Next I was off to sample some Bedrock Wines with co-owner Chris Cottrell. We met Cottrell several years ago at a wine dinner in

downtown Raleigh and have been fans of his wines ever since. From Sauvignon Blancs to Zinfandel, we have enjoyed it all.

Next to Bedrock was another one of our favorites, and probably one of the nicest people in the world of wine you’ll ever meet – Sam Lando of Lando Wines. I noticed he was using crutches, as he informed me it was an old sports injury coming back to haunt him. We took some time to catch up since we met last year when he was in town for a wine dinner put together by our friends at Taylor’s Wine Shop. I sampled a vertical of his 2018 and 2019 Pinot Noir, which is stellar as usual. Lando had others coming to sample his wine, so I snapped a quick photo of Sam, and it was off to my next destination.

Jasmine Hirsch of Hirsch Vineyards has been participating in the TWFE for years, so it’s become custom to see her and hear all about the new vintages annually. She’s been the winery’s GM since 2015 but explained to me that the wines I was tasting that

MARCH 2022 17 WINE EDITORIAL
DATHAN KAZSUK Pax Mahle and Patrick Cappiello of Monte Rio Cellars.

day were her first since she took over as winemaker in 2019. I sampled the BohanDillon Pinot Noir and the San Andreas Fault Estate Pinot Noir – if you are a PN fan, you really need to try these wines.

Three Sticks winemaker Ryan Prichard was next as he poured a tasty Pinot Noir from the winery’s Gap’s Crown Vineyard. Made using 100 percent Pinot Noir and barrel-aged for 16 months, this wine had an excellent blackberry profile with hints of graphite and ginger.

While walking around, I saw another longtime TWFE alum, Steve Reynolds of Reynolds Family Winery, along with his son, Cameron. I came over, and just like with Sam Lando, we caught up since we talked last year. Reynolds was part of the Taylor’s Wine Shop event – and boy, was it a fun afternoon! We even got to sample some of Reynold’s small-batch Tequilla he makes.

But that day, I sampled his three vintages of California Cabs that leave your mouth wanting more than just a tiny sample. “Our wines are safe and solid for drinking for 5 to 10 years after you buy them,” Reynolds says to a couple of wine tasters beside me. “We do many small barrel production, so we can watch our tannin selection. The standout from the trio was the 2017 Stag’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.

While going from table to table to sample wines, I had an opportunity to say hello to a few of our friends in the distribution world, such as Matt Weiss, Andrew Mehring of Winebow and Brad Beavers, and comparing notes with Ryan and Jen Kolarov with Neuse River Brewing Company. They serve wine on their brasserie menu.

It was a pleasure having the opportunity to sample the latest vintage of Continuum Estate’s red wine. Carissa Mondavi and I talked about how I have the last vintage on our shelf. Still, I never had a chance to try it. So now I have the opportunity to make it easier to sell to one lucky customer.

I was ready to call it a day. As I looked at my phone, the time was already 3:45 pm. Many winemakers were leaving for their subsequent appointments or getting ready for the afterparty in downtown Raleigh. As I look to my right, I see a bottle of Harlan Estate waiting for me. Estate Director Don Weaver poured me a generous pour, and I savored every drop of this wine. It just isn’t something you get to try, and the ones that do should consider themselves lucky.

I can now check off sampling both Harlan Estate and Screaming Eagle on my list – next in line is something from Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. I can dream, right?

1. Guy Davis, Davis Family Vineyards; 2. Chris Cottrell, Bedrock Wines; 3. Aaron Pott, Pott Winery; 4. Sam Lando, Lando Wines; 5. Steve Reynolds, Reynolds Family Winery; 6. Jasmine Hirsch, Hirsch Vineyards.

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1 2 3 4 5 6

Sampling NC’s Sweet Grape

The University of North CarolinaGreensboro’s School of Business and Economics, with the support from the North Carolina Wine and Grape Council, helped create what was probably the most impactful experience to date for Muscadine wines at Raleigh’s Angus Barn – which has a long history of serving great food with incredible wines.

The Muscadine luncheon was hosted by Angus Barn’s wine director Henk Schuitemaker, who has been working with the restaurant for 35 years.

Schuitemaker worked with three different Muscadine winemakers in the state – Duplin Winery, Cypress Bend Vineyards and Lu Mil Vineyard and paired its wines with a 4-course luncheon.

Guests were first greeted with a sparkling wine from Duplin Winery, Sweet Lily – a semisweet sparkling wine. It was paired with Angus Barn’s famous cheese and homemade crackers.

Duplin’s Gray Fussell, a fourth-generation family member of the winery, said he spent years working with his family in many aspects of the agri-business.

Having just graduated from college, Fussell enjoys sales and customer interaction all over the state and meeting many of the winery’s customers.

Joining the luncheon were representatives from the local wine shops, winemakers, vineyard owners, restaurant representatives and several sommeliers in training.

Schuitemaker opened the luncheon by letting guests know they need to be open

to a new experience and leave any wine baggage behind. This would be a “reset” experience, where hosts could look at the wines from a modern perspective.

Guests at the luncheon got to sample 11 wines in total. Schuitemaker and his chef paired Duplin’s Summertime Strut and Coastal Shag with fresh Chesapeake Bay oysters with a black pepper mignonette.

The second course featured heirloom tomatoes with whipped Chevre, basil and extra virgin olive oil with Cypress Bend Vineyards’ Sundown and Catherine wines.

Next was a Korean red chili glazed chicken with baby bok choy paired with Lu Mil Vineyards’ Taylor Devine, Cypress Bend Vineyards’ Autumn Red and Duplin Winery’s Mothervine Reserve.

The Mothervine Reserve is made from cuttings from the Mothervine in Manteo that dates back to 1584. Each wine blended with the chicken’s spiciness and complemented the bok choy.

Dessert featured a citrus panna cotta paired with two Lu Mil Vineyard’s wines – Sir Walter Raleigh and Harmony Hill.

A discussion ensued after lunch among those there about how food and wine pairings can really enlighten the experience.

The industry continues to learn, and wines are being made with more technically astute winemakers. Vineyards continue to adapt to the flavor profiles and new trends.

Because Muscadine is a wine that can have lots of residual sugar, it works with many types of dishes across the board, depending on its sweetness.

Schuitemaker sees North Carolina Muscadine taking that same approach, adapting to the spectrum, and being paired

with food to enhance the meal experience.

Nadia Hetzel, the winemaker at Cypress Bend Vineyards, said her background in tasting wines from Germany has helped her appreciate the Muscadine flavor and respect the grapes’ nature.

Cypress Bend Vineyards wines run the spectrum from dry to sweet, like a German Riesling. “It’s all about paying respect to the grape and trying to bring out the best in each style,” Hetzel says.

Karla Ward, who represented Lu Mil Winery, shared her experience with the winery’s vineyard. “Lu Mil Winery is all about hospitality, inviting people to come and see the vineyard and experience the wines.” Lu Mil is open 365 days a year. Ward also mentioned that this event wasn’t just about the three vineyards at the table. It was also about the many wineries out there in North Carolina adapting and learning in these trying times.

Having the luncheon at Angus Barn in Raleigh really shows that Muscadine wines can be served at some of the top restaurants in the state.

After the meal, North Carolina Wine and Grape Council’s Executive Director, Whit Winslow, shared “Blackberry.” This wine was recently awarded the 2021 Best in Show Muscadine wine by Sanders Ridge Vineyard in Booneville.

The most important takeaway from the luncheon was that Muscadine needs a complete “reset” in its preconceptions – and that that not all Muscadine is a sugar bomb giving wines from the state a bad name.

Dan McLaughlin is one of the founding board members of the nonprofit organization, North Carolina Fine Wines Society. He can be reached at djmclg@gmail.com.

MARCH 2022 19
WINE EDITORIAL
ANGUS BARN’S WINE DIRECTOR PREPARED A LUNCHEON WITH SAMPLES OF LOCALLY PRODUCED MUSCADINE WINES DAN MCLAUGHLIN A group of wineries, wine reps and members of the NC Wine & Grape Council sampled a Muscadine and food pairing prepared by The Angus Barn.

Games & More

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