NamibiaTourismsupportingConservation|DiscovertheZambeziRegion|RidingforRhinos AdventureThe issue Travel News A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE on Ongava Game Reserve Not for the faint of heart HIKE THE NAUKLUFT SLEEPOUTS | THE 5 BILLION STAR HOTEL SPRING 2022 | Vol 30 No 4www.travelnewsnamibia.com
DAILYNamibiabesttheDiscoververyof hop on hop off shuttle flights to Namibia’s top destinations... at the price of a self-drive. Spend less time travelling and more time discovering the wonders of Namibia. Safari www.flynamibia.com.na EtoshaWindhoek Sossusvlei Swakopmund www.flynamibiasafari.com.na
PHOTOGRAPHERS McCulloch, Pompie Burger, Le Roux van Schalkwyk, Lee Tindall, Dirk Heinrich, TOSCO, Toast Coetzer, Charene Labuschagne, Nina van Schalkwyk is published quarterly, distributed worldwide via Zinio digital and in physical format in southern Africa. The editorial content of TNN is contributed by the Venture Media team, freelance writers and journalists. It is the sole property of the publisher and no part of the magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Due to
NamibiaTravelNews Industry partners: Spring 2022 To advertise in Travel News Namibia or any of our other publications, contact Elzanne McCulloch +264 81 367 3583 | elzanne@venture.com.na | www.venture.com.na ADVERTISE WITH US THE WORLD’S LARGEST DIGITAL NEWSSTAND Subscribe on All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press.
uncertain circumstances, this may have changed after the date of publication. Please check businesses' individual websites for up-to-date details. 1TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
newsstand
is published by Venture Media in Windhoek, Namibia Tel:www.travelnewsnamibia.com+26461383450,Hypermotor City Unit 44, Maxwell street PO Box 21593, Windhoek, Namibia EDITOR Elzanne elzanne@venture.com.naMcCulloch PRODUCTION & CONTENT MANAGER Le Roux van Schalkwyk content@venture.com.na PUBLIC RELATIONS Elzanne McCulloch elzanne@venture.com.na LAYOUT & DESIGN Liza de Klerk design@venture.com.na CUSTOMER SERVICE Bonn Nortjé bonn@venture.com.na TEXT CONTRIBUTORS Pompie Burger, Le Roux van Schalkwyk, Lee Tindall, Rièth van Schalkwyk, Dirk Heinrich, Charene Labuschagne, Lara Potma, Linda de Jager
Elzanne
Travel News Namibia
SOULFUL RUGGED Windhoek Rehoboth Mariental Maltahöhe Duwisib Castle SOSSUSVLEI Sesriem Solitaire CapeHentiesSwakopmundBayCross Grootfontein TsumkweOndangwaOtaviTsumebOshakatiOshikango KatwitwiOmaheneneRuacana Opuwo Etosha Pan Sesfontein KhorixasKamanjab OtjiwarongoOutjo Okakarara SpitzkoppeKalkfeldOmaruruKaribib Okahandja Gobabis Usakos BrandbergUis Twyfelfontein MöweTerraceBayTorraBay BayMile 108 COASTSKELETONPARK KAOKOLAND ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK NATIONALKHAUDUMPARK KAVANGO GAMEMAHANGOPARK DAMARALAND KALAHARIDESERT NAUKLUFTNAMIB-PARK /AI-/AIS TRANSFRONTIERRICHTERSVELDPARK RuacanaFalls EpupaFalls Marienfluss Rundu Walvis Bay Sandwich Harbour Lüderitz OranjemundBogenfelsKolmanskop PinahRosh Noordoewer Velloorsdrift /Ai-/Ais Grünau AriamsvleiSendlingsdrifKeetmanshoopAus NATURAL LIBERATING PLATEAUWATERBERGPARK TSAU NATIONALSPERRGEBIET)(FORMER//KHAEBPARK 2 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
KONGOLA NKASA NATIONALRUPARAPARKBWABWATAGAMEPARKBagani Katima Mulilo Ngoma NATIONALMUDUMUPARK n 2021, w A our vari d stories i Why eth n How contribu e ies that T E L L , G R O W , S H A R E Y O U R S T O R Y W I T H U S I N 2 0 2 1 a Venture Media is the pioneer of Namibia tourism promotion. We are the leader in spreading the tourism word around the world. We distribute accurate, credible, up to date and regular tourism-related information on paper, in social media, on the World Wide Web, and on mobile apps. We have reached hundreds of thousands over almost three decades. Be part of our community and let’s do it together. We focus on telling and sharing STORIES THAT MATTER across our various magazines and digital platforms. Join the journey and share your stories with audiences that understand and value why certain things matter. Why ethical business, conservation, tourism, people and communities matter. How these elements interrelate and how we can bring about change, contribute to the world and support each other. Whether for an entire nation, an industry, a community, or even just an individual.
w w w . r e n n i e s t r a v e l n a m i b i a . c o m Spring 2022 3TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
WWW.VENTURE.COM.NA or email us at info@venture.com.na for a curated proposal
YOUR 4X4 ADVENTURE AWAITS Tel: +264 61 232871 | 24hr emergency no: 081 129 3355 Email: info@africa-on-wheels.com | Website: www.africa-on-wheels.com SmucrMatej
Resetting perspective.
5TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
Safe travels! With love from Namibia, Elzanne McCulloch
@elzanne_mcculloch
Quite fittingly, we have dubbed this spring edition of Travel News Namibia The Adventure Issue. It is an easy feat putting together a publication filled to the brim with tales of excitement and exploits into the wilderness. When each day spent galavanting across this rugged land is an adventure by default. You will find a story on hiking the daunting terrains of the Naukluft, an undertaking our Director of Content, Le Roux van Schalkyk, seemed woefully unprepared for. A group of mountain-biking and conservation enthusiasts cycle across Damaraland in aid of rhino conservation. We walk through the bushveld and get up close with nature on Ongava Game Reserve. We explore the rivers of the northeast by boat, sleep under a canopy of a myriad of stars in a dry river and visit the hinterland of Khaudum National Park where few dare to venture. May your journey through Namibia bring you clarity and reaffirm your love of nature. May it reset priorities that inevitably may have shifted due to the demands of our modern world. May you gain perspective. May wherever you go be a wonderful adventure.
A hike through the rugged Naukluft mountains is challenging but worth it as each climb is rewarded with a breathtaking view. - Le Roux van Schalkwyk FOLLOW US INSTAGRAMON @thisis_namibia
“This has been a life changing reset. I feel like I have gained a new perspective on life, grown an even stronger love for animals and become even closer with my brothers who I’ve shared this special journey with. Everywhere I look I’m surrounded by so much beauty, and I feel truly recentred and at peace. My first stop was Namibia, one of the most stunning places I’ve ever seen with my own eyes. Words and pictures do not do it justice. The hot air balloon ride was surreal.” These are the words of Sir Lewis Hamilton, seven-time Formula One World Champion and all-around very famous guy. Now, Sir Lewis and I may not have much in common. I certainly have never pushed my Landy around a racetrack at 350 km/h. But nonetheless his words struck a chord with me, because, like Lewis, I, too, have experienced the reset of perspective that comes from floating over the oldest desert in the world with Namib Sky Balloon Safaris. My love for Namibia’s wildlife, people and places grows with each venture across our endless horizons (or each story I read thereof), and every moment spent in this sublime corner of the world seems surreal. I get incredibly excited when others, from far and wide, get to experience it all firsthand and share in my sentiments. We are not so different after all.
ON THE COVER
EDITOR'S LETTER
So, thank you Sir Lewis for your joyous message and for sharing your Namibian adventure with the world.
Floating over the Namib à la Lewis
CONTENTS 120 KILOMETRES IN 8 DAYS p12 Join a gang of hikers, and one novice, as they hike the Naukluft Mountains Trail PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE p22 Through the lens of Toast Coetzer as he explores Namibia's barren landscapes time and again A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE p28 Get up close and personal with the sights, sounds, smells and feeling of nature at Ongava BIRDING p48 Pompie unpacks the phenomenon of the Quelea - the world's most numerous undomesticated bird In this issue Hiking the Naukluft Mountains 12 6 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
LISTEN
LISTEN AND SEE. ONGAVA.COM VISIT OUR RESEARCH CENTRE AT ORC.ECO
RedeckerStefanPhoto TO are times when solitude is better than society and silence is wiser than speech.” Charles Spurgeon
NATURE. “There
22 60 56 28 Also in this issue CONTENTS 10 BUSH TELEGRAPH News from the tourism industry 18 KHAUDUM NATIONAL PARK Sikereti gets a reno 20 VULTURE CONSERVATION Understanding their crucial role 32 TEN YEARS OF TOSCO Tourism Supporting Conservation 38 SPRING TRIPPING What to look out for and discover this season 40 A SLEEPOUT TO REMEMBER Camping under the stars 42 LIVING WILD When three became four 44 RMB RIDE FOR RHINOS Eight years of cycling for conservation 52 YOUR PRIVATE WILDERNESS at Etosha Heights Private Reserve 54 BLUE WILDEBEEST and a fight for dominance in Etosha 56 THE WILD ERONGO MOUNTAINS and everything around it 60 ZAMBEZI ADVENTURES Three things to do, see and discover 64 ON PHOTOGRAPHY Pompie Burger's quirky take 9TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
10 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
BUSH TELEGRAPH
The Cheetah Conservation Fund (CCF), together with its local partner, Natural Resource Management Support Organisations (NACSO), hosted a delegation from the Republic of Somaliland in July. The delegation was on a 10-day fact-finding tour of northcentral Namibia. The aim of the visit was to gain institutional knowledge and experience of Namibia’s Community-Based Natural Resource Management (CBNRM), eco-tourism, and the development of concessions around protected areas. The knowledge transfer between Namibia and Somaliland will help the Somaliland government to develop its own model to meet the needs of nomadic pastoral communities while mitigating threats to wild species. A new CCF facility is being built in the country in the Horn of CCFAfrica.has been working with the government of Somaliland since 2011 to combat the illegal trade in cheetahs and currently cares for more than 80 cheetah cubs in the country’s capital city of Hargeisa. In December 2021, the CCF and Somaliland's sponsoring partner, the Ministry of Environment and Climate Change, began construction of the CCF Cheetah Rescue and Conservation Centre (CRCC) at Geed-Deeble (“Land of Trees”) to provide a permanent home for the animals. The CRCC is built in a 50,000 ha area which the Somaliland government has set aside to become the country’s first national park.
CCF HOSTS DELEGATION FROM SOMALILAND
News from the tourism industry
The Namibia Tourism Board has launched an updated website under a new domain name (visitnamibia.com.na). While it still contains all the valuable information for tourists intending to visit Namibia, new features include updated information on foreign missions, travel regulations, visa requirements and all essential travel tips. At the launch a promotional toolkit, which has been specifically developed for Namibia’s foreign missions, was presented to the Ministry of International Relations and Cooperation. The toolkit contains print-ready digital brochures, banners and videos to promote tourism in Namibia. “Tourism, as a form of cultural and economic interaction is an extension of diplomacy. The foreign service officer and the tourist are both involved in cross-cultural communication, and what they communicate has serious, real-world economic implications. Thus, every diplomat is an unselfish agent of the cross-border exchange of ideas, values, cultures, or other types of information fostering mutual understanding between states and societies. Cultural tourism does not necessarily involve active participation in cultural exchanges. It goes well beyond that,” Ambassador Penda Naanda, Executive Director of the Ministry of International Relations and Cooperation, said at the launching ceremony.
LAUNCH OF SAFARI BINGO
REOPEN
Safari Bingo is a game in which 2 - 4 players compete to find all the animals on their respective bingo sheet before the other players do. The game was developed by 15-year-old Clara van Heerden. Growing up in Namibia and spending countless hours on game drives, she came up with an idea to increase the fun of game viewing while visiting Nkasa Rupara National Park with her family during the Christmas holidays two years ago. Safari Bingo was launched in August and is currently available for animals of Etosha National Park. It is perfect to entertain children but will be enjoyed by all ages. For more information email safbingo@gmail.com.
NEW WEBSITE & FOREIGN
CYMOT is a well-known Namibian brand that specialises in outdoor gear, protective clothing, tools as well as automotive, cycling and other equipment.
BORDERS POSTS CLOSED SINCE 2020
Several small border posts between Namibia and neighbouring South Africa and Botswana reopened in August. They had been closed since 2020 as a result of the Covid-19 pandemic. Reopened border posts are Mata-Mata, Velloorsdrift, Sendlingsdrift and Klein Manasse along the South African border and Dobe and Kasika on the Botswana border. LAUNCHES
11TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
CYMOT APPOINTS NEW CEO After serving as MD/CEO of CYMOT for close to 20 years, Axel Theissen has recently decided to hand the reins over to Ralph Ellinger. Ralph is a familiar face at the company: he has been employed there since 2002. Prior to being appointed as CEO, Ralph served as the COO of CYMOT for a period of ten years.
NTB
MISSIONS TOOLKIT
NEWS FROM THE INDUSTRY
I’m not a hiker. Yet, here I find myself lifting my ridiculously heavy backpack onto my back for the first time on the morning before the start of an eight-day-long hike. The weight of the backpack immediately triggers the question: why am I doing this? HIKING THE Naukluft 120 kilometres in eight days Text & Photographs Le Roux van Schalkwyk 12 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
13TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
14 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
The Ubisis hut used to be a holiday cottage before the land was acquired for the park and is now the overnight stop. According to the map given to us at reception, it “is a complete surprise to the unsuspecting hiker.” Unfortunately, it wasn’t a good surprise. Because the road has been washed away, the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism is unable to reach the area by vehicle. The hut wasn’t in good shape inside and there was no water. Before setting out we were notified that the solar pump wasn’t working, but luckily, because of the good rain earlier in the year, we found a spring not far from the hut.
After lunch, life was a struggle. The zebra path seemed neverending. After every bend there was another, stretching into the distance. As the afternoon wore on it became more and more mentally challenging. The group split up into separate pairs, each going at their own pace and conversation drying up as the heat of the late April day took its toll. Trapped in your own mind, you know there is no turning back or giving up – the only way is forward. And so you put one foot in front of the other. I remember thinking: “People do this for fun?”
DAY 1 - PEOPLE DO THIS FOR FUN?
Our campsite packed up, cars parked in the shade, we fasten our backpacks and start to follow the trail markers down into the Naukluft River. Moving south towards the border of the park, the first section is fairly easy going. The first ascent is where the reality of the next eight days hits me partially. Having walked for only a couple of hours, my unfit legs already feel the climb going up a rather steep gradient which leads to a wellworn mountain zebra path that runs along the contour of the southernmost part of the Naukluft Mountains. It occurs to me that this may be a bit tougher than I thought. Apart from some slippery bits, the first day is quite stunning. The vistas below are striking and on the highest elevations of the trail, viewpoints offer spectacular vistas of the Tsaris Mountains to the south.
15TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
The massive overhang of the cave at Cathedral Spring signals the start of the descent. Several chains have been anchored at points that would otherwise be extremely difficult to negotiate with a large backpack. Certain sections are quite high and caught us a bit off-guard as we weren’t expecting the climb down to be this intense. But steady as she goes – we all made it safely to the bottom of the valley.
I have been fascinated by the Naukluft Mountains since my first visit to the park many years ago. This seemingly inhospitable mountain complex on the doorstep of the great Namib Sand Sea is surprisingly full of plants, birds and wildlife, thanks to numerous natural springs. Yet, very little of the Naukluft can be seen by the casual visitor. The only access road for tourists leads directly to the NWR Naukluft Camp. This is by no means an attempt to restrict vehicle traffic, as anyone who has flown over or driven on any of the roads (C19, C14 and D854) that form a circular route around the mountains can attest to. The extremely rugged terrain makes it a really unfriendly place for vehicles.
The only way to explore the park is on foot. There are two short one-day hikes, the Olive and Waterkloof trails. Then there is the eight-day trail that covers 120 kilometres on a circular route – with the option to do only the first four days of the hike. Once I heard of the epic eight-day hike, it immediately went onto my bucket list. I must admit, at no point did I think about the actual hiking part, but was simply very much drawn by the excitement of exploring a remarkable area that very few people ever get to see.
Fast forward to April this year and I find myself on the eve of a bucket list adventure, completely unaware of what awaits over the next few days, and mentally unprepared for it. Luckily my friends Quinton, Lynne, Roland, Sarah, Jess and Toast are all avid hikers, so I was in good hands.
Bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, we’re all up at the crack of dawn. I sense a bit of nervous energy as no one knows what exactly to expect over the next eight days. Backpacks are fiddled with and some last items are added or removed. Even the experienced hikers, i.e. everyone but myself, exude a sense of tenseness mixed with excitement. Pretty oblivious to what is happening with the rest, I stuff some last snacks into my bag and try it on fully loaded for the first time. I let out a loud phew as the full force of the weight almost upends me. “It will get lighter as the food and snacks get less,” I assure myself.
Our first lunch stop was at the first of the natural springs on the trail in the shade of a large ficus tree. Roland had a lie-down on a large lower branch. An idyllic scene until we got ready to leave and noticed the two-something-metre black mamba quietly moving among the higher branches. So perfectly camouflaged that when it didn’t move it was almost impossible to tell apart from the tree's limbs.
Finally, just before sunset, a valley opened up in front of us and the Putte Shelter came into view. What a relief after a long day’s walk. The first shelter is named Putte because of the well nearby. The well is equipped with a large round hand-pump for obtaining water.
DAY 2 - DOWN WE GO The first section of day 2 is an undemanding walk across an undulating plateau. A pleasant start after the tough day before. After a couple of hours we reach the impressive Ubusis Kloof. Massive rock faces on both sides and polished rock plates give evidence of the masses of water that once flooded down the river. A spectacular sight to behold, except that if this river does flood and you are caught in it, there is no escape.
On the recommendation of my friends I had bought prepackaged dehydrated meals, even though I was sceptical about the taste of these powdery-looking provisions with exotic names like Mediterranean chicken with olives and creamy parmesan chicken. The first night’s meal was average, but I was so tired it was mostly just a simple refuelling exercise. However, when I hydrated a chilli con carne for night two, I was quite surprised that this meal tasted much worse than the night before. Not knowing better and thinking that this brown watery mess at the bottom of my fire bucket was supposed to taste stale, I finished half of it before asking the others if these meals should taste like slightly spiced mouldy ceiling boards. Turns out it was stale and I just thought it was supposed to taste that way. It is supposed to have the texture of a soggy ceiling board but shouldn’t taste as such. You live and learn, I guess.
DAY 6 - SLOW GRIND UP RIVER
The day starts with a slog back up the Ubusis River and then up the same chains to get to the top of the kloof. The ascent is easier as you can see where you are climbing. The rest of the day is quite uneventful apart from spotting some mountain zebras as the trail follows an easy route across the plateau to the Adlerhorst Shelter.
DAY 4 - THE FEAST Starting on fairly level terrain, the first section of the day was reasonably easy going. As the trail turned down the Tsams River, the sand and loose rocks slowed the pace. After a couple of kilometres, the trail veers off to the right as a massive tufa waterfall blocks the way down. To bypass this section you have to climb a very steep hill. After suffering the leg burns of the climb we were met with a stunning view across the valley below. The dunes of the Namib are just visible on the horizon. The trail winds steeply down back to the river, and the descent takes a while because it is slippery. Down below, ficus trees and numerous springs make it a pleasant walk. We are excited to get to the Tsams Ost Shelter where fresh supplies and more importantly, cold beer, are waiting for us. As there is road access to the shelter, you can arrange a resupply run on Day 4 with NWR for a small fee. After a quick exchange of our garbage and dirty clothes for food, fresh clothes, steaks and beer we waved goodbye to the NWR employees, the last people we’d see for the next four days.
The next part of the trail traverses undulating terrain, with some of the ascents a strain on our tired legs after the early morning climb. This section gives me a front seat on the rollercoaster of emotions. Coming down each slope I feel strong and ready to walk long distances. I can look around and appreciate the beautiful quiver trees and euphorbias dotting the hillsides.
With a couple of cold ones and delicious steaks, we feasted like kings – a welcome break to re-energise the spirits.
DAY 5 - NO REGRETS Day 5 starts with a climb, a big one called Broekskeur Immediately sweating out the small “taste of the good life” we had the night before. Was the night before worth the struggle today? Yes! It definitely was. No regrets.
As a result of the boot incident we briefly lost Lynne. She took the wrong trail but luckily kept her cool and retraced her steps – all is well that ends well.
A brief hike takes us to the incredible 200-metre-high Die Valle Waterfall. Covered in a thin film of water, this waterfall must be quite a sight when it has water cascading down the massive Thedrop.trail
From here the trail follows the narrow gorge carved by the river and it continues to gain altitude, eventually leading to its catchment area. While the scenery was stunning, the going was tough. The river has washed away all the sand, leaving only loose rocks that make for difficult and slow progress. All of us were happy to finish this section. The rest of the trail winds its way down the Arbeit Adelt Valley to Tufa Shelter.
After a long day, we arrived at Die Valle Shelter. Much to our frustration the 10 000 litre water storage tank was empty. Of this we had not been warned before the hike. Fortunately, a spring was close by.
The day turned out to be quite eventful as Toast’s sole parted ways with the rest of his hiking boot. With some crafty tying of his laces, he was somehow able to keep the sole stuck to the bottom of his boot. Stopping every now and then to readjust the laces. Not the best fix, but it did the trick and, remarkably, Toast was able to finish the hike with the broken footwear.
leads up a steep climb and then follows a contour path that leads to the top of the waterfall. Beautiful crystal clear pools of water await as well as views for days.
16 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
DAY 3 - BACK UP WE GO Feeling strong after surviving the first two days and getting into the rhythm of things, the hike from here on became more and more enjoyable.
Going up my mind swings the other way and I wonder why I am doing this to myself. Eyes fixed on the ground in an effort to make it over the hill.
• Duct tape – It can temporarily fix most things and would have solved Toast’s boot problem more efficiently.
DAY 7 - WHO WANTS AN EXTRA 10KG Despite the strain of six days of tough hiking behind us, we wake up in good spirits. This day had been in the back of everyone’s mind since the beginning of the hike. The MEFT ranger informed us that our destination for the day, Kapok Shelter, has no water. As it is on the plateau there are no springs either. Luckily a 10-litre bladder was delivered to us on resupply day. The problem is, that 10 litres of water is 10 kilograms of extra weight. It also fills a bulky bag; we had to figure out how to carry it. The plan was simple: everyone would refill their bottles regularly from the bladder to finish it as soon as possible. In that way we should still have enough water for the night as well as the next day’s hike. Taking turns to carry the bladder, Toast volunteers for the first leg and after passing some of his possessions around to make space in his backpack for the water, we are off. The bladder quickly gets depleted as the morning goes by. Only two people carry it before it is empty. The day begins with a steep ascent up a complicated kloof. Chains are placed at some of the steepest sections. The last chain takes us up a tricky bit where you have to scramble up the vertical wall of a dry waterfall. Back on the plateau we reach Bakenkop, a viewpoint from where you can see the Tsondab River valley some 600 metres below. The rest of the way towards Kapokvlakte is relatively Theflat. last night is bitter-sweet. The beauty of the Naukluft Mountains exceeded all my expectations and after calling them home for a week, it was hard to say goodbye. Yet, we are also yearning to give our bodies a rest and embrace the simple comforts usually taken for granted.
DAY 8 - WE MADE IT
17TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
• Foldable bucket – It is convenient to have a container for water needs when overnighting rather than using water bottles and constantly having to refill.
ESSENTIAL KIT:
The 16 kilometres of the final day go by relatively quickly. The trail is fairly easy and makes a large bend on the eastern edge of the Naukluft massif, offering stunning views toward Rietoog. It eventually descends into the Naukluft River by way of a tributary. From the Naukluft River you join up with the Waterkloof Day Trail. After a final dip in one of the pools, we head to the restaurant for a well-deserved celebratory meal. Although an eight-day hike may be extreme for most people, a visit to this fascinating part of the Namib-Naukluft National Park is highly recommended to any nature lover. Surprisingly few people know that these mountains are the origin of the Naukluft part of the Namib-Naukluft. By just doing one of the two daytrails you will be able to experience some of the beauty and the bounty of nature found in this mountain complex. It is extremely rich in plant diversity. Over 400 plant species have been recorded, among them quite a few endemics. Wildlife includes mountain zebra, springbok, klipspringer, leopard, hyena and kudu as well as over 200 bird species and a multitude of rodents, lizards and insects. The geology and formation of the Naukluft is fascinating, but I won’t even try to explain it here. Having skipped the baby steps and jumped onto the adult ride, I think it is fair to call myself a hiker now. TNN
• GPS – Although well marked, the high grass obstructed some of the markers on the trail. Having a GPS is always good in any event, especially in emergencies.
• Gaiters (sock savers) – There was a lot of grass and having the seeds in your socks will drive you mad.
The
18 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
KHAUDUM Ultimate Wilderness
Text & Photographs Willie Olivier KHAUDUM FAST FACTS
On a recent visit to Khaudum, I decided to explore the southern half of the park from the comfort of Sikereti Camp. It reopened in July after it was closed officially in March 2019 and discouraged for use as far back as 2015 because of its dilapidated state.
K haudum National Park offers an unforgettable and authentic wilderness experience for adventurous travellers seeking solitude in one of Namibia's most remote corners. Its deep, loose sandy tracks and large herds of elephants are legendary, and the park attracts a breed of intrepid travellers.
During my three-day visit, I ticked 16 mammal species on my checklist. In addition to the species already mentioned, I added kudu, giraffe, steenbok and warthog (all common). Blue wildebeest, gemsbok, eland and common impala (restricted to the south of the park) were among the other species I saw, as well as a few small mammal species.
Although game-viewing is an integral part of a visit to Khaudum, it is its wilderness atmosphere that makes a visit so special. The silence, solitude and the anticipation of always expecting the unexpected is what draws intrepid travellers back time after time. Khaudum’s tracks are less travelled and the only congestion you might experience is a herd of elephants crossing ahead of you. But be warned: Khaudum is not for the faint-hearted! For more information about Sikereti Camp visit www.khaudum.com.na. TNN
• It is highly advisable that parties should consist of at least two four-wheel drive vehicles. You might be in for a very long wait before help arrives, should you experience a breakdown or an emergency.
• It is not recommended to tow a trailer, even if it has the same track width as the towing vehicle, least of all in the deep sand in the northern section of the park. You might also need to reverse when confronted by an elephant.
• Overnight facilities are available at Sikereti in the south and Xaudum campsite in the north.
Attracted by the smell of a kudu carcass in the waterhole, a lone spotted hyaena made its appearance with an opportunistic black-backed jackal in tow. But, on becoming aware of the wild dogs, the hyaena beat a hasty retreat. Then, another highlight followed – a honey badger approached the waterhole with its characteristic jog-trot.
The game-viewing experience in Khaudum has been enhanced by viewing platforms at nearly all the waterholes in the park. Water reservoirs have been built to relieve the congestion of elephants, while separate drinking places for other species are also provided.
To ensure that the protection of wildlife and the support of rural communities go hand in hand, the privately operated camp collects a 6% concession fee on behalf of the Khaudum North Complex Conservancy and the Gciriku Traditional Authority.
19TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
• The tracks in the south of the park are mostly hard surface or slightly sandy, while the tracks north of Dussi and Tari Kora waterholes are deep sand requiring four-wheel-drive and tyres to be deflated.
• Fuel is available at Tsumkwe, 52 km from the southern park gate. From Khaudum Gate in the north it is a 46 km drive through deep, loose sand to the B8. Fuel is available at Divundu (90 km east of Katere) and at Rundu (120 km west of Katere).
The highlight was undoubtedly an afternoon visit to Tsoanfontein where a pack of six African wild dogs was lying in the shade of the viewing platform. Khaudum is the heartland of one of the largest roan populations in southern Africa and several of these iconic antelopes showed up during the afternoon.
If you prefer sleeping under the stars, there are four spacious campsites, each with washing-up facilities, hot water showers (donkey-fired), wash basins and flush toilets. Visitors seeking luxury in the bush can opt for the self-catering en-suite safari tents, each with a wooden deck and a braai place. In keeping with Khaudum’s wilderness atmosphere, the camp is unfenced.
The park attracts over 4,000 elephants during the dry season – that is more than one elephant per square metre. Clouds of dust in the distance signalled the approach of herd after herd of elephants. I counted more than 100 in one herd.
As the temperatures were fairly chilly, the game tended to drink later in the day than during the hot summer months. So I set off on a leisurely drive to one of the viewing platforms with some snacks, binoculars, a camera and a bird book after a hearty brunch. At the viewing platform I simply bided my time to watch the passing parade of animals. Then, around midafternoon, I made my way to another waterhole and waited for the animals to show up.
I was hoping I would spot a Pygmy Falcon on my last trip to the Namib-Naukluft Park, Namibia’s largest conservation area. Small, spirited and snow-white, the bird appeared as misplaced as an Edelweiss flower in the desert. The Pygmy Falcon soared like a white star, in stark contrast to the dry riverbeds, gravel and grassy plains. Incidentally, the park of 49,768 square kilometres is slightly bigger than Switzerland. The area has at least 190 bird species. While this is also the hunting ground of other birds of prey, such as the much-admired Black-breasted Snake Eagle – not to forget the Black, Booted and Martial Eagle – it is the vultures of the area that recently stirred my interest. Following a global trend, Namibia’s vulture species are all threatened or endangered. In the uncertain times of Covid-19, these birds came into sharp focus, not only because they need our help but because we need them more. Immune to microbes that cause diseases like anthrax, rabies, tuberculosis, botulism and brucellosis, these birds literally clean up the microbes on a carcass in less than an hour, and in so doing stop the spread of disease to more susceptible animals and humans. In this area you will find Lappet-faced, White-backed and Cape Vultures if you are lucky, given the fact that seven of Africa’s eleven vulture species are heading for extinction.
The value and virtue of vultures
Vulture 20 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
Text Linda De Jager
Lappet-faced
This approach aims to reduce the impact of threats to stabilise the recovery of existing vulture populations. This conservation measure is also on the cards for Namibia and will unite powerful stakeholders in the interest of vultures.
Given the huge areas in question, it became clear to me that there is much merit in the efforts of organisations like the Endangered Wildlife Trust to develop large Vulture Safe Zones in southern Africa.
Of the three vulture species here, it is the Cape Vulture which is the most vulnerable and susceptible. This explains why the original flocks of the Rostock Mountains were wiped out in the late sixties. Explains Chris: “Your Lappet-faced Vultures are individual animals. They will go up, fly at low levels, look for small carcasses and then they come down in pairs. They will feed on a carcass, and if it is poisoned it will be a pair that dies. The Cape Vultures are colonial. They go much higher up into the sky because they only feed on bigger carcasses. And they watch each other, hunting collaboratively – like a foraging net in the sky. If one quarter of the net sees a carcass, they all come down. Then the next one sees it, and the next … It is like pulling on a quarter of a net, and then the whole net comes down to feed on the carcass. And if that carcass is poisoned, you kill the whole flock.” In Africa, one poisoned elephant carcass causes 500 dead vultures per incident.
If my grandfather could sit on Corona’s veranda today –staring towards Namibia’s endless horizons – and spot an iconic vulture circling into sight, he would have been astonished to realise that the value of one vulture would now outweigh the price of one karakul fur a thousandfold.
My grandfather, Roelf de Jager, was one of the farmers who in 1937-38 seeked his fortune adjacent to the yet-to-be-proclaimed park. He endeavoured to tame the rugged area with the help of donkeys like Japie and Regter. His farm was rather ironically called Corona. Many small-stock farmers seeked to make a living here, especially after World War II, when the area was opened up for farming. In the heyday of karakul farming, the plains were teeming with livestock. And back then, there were still vultures in abundance, circling down on the carcasses of animals preyed on by jackals, leopards, cheetah and hyena. You still find the tracks of these predators in the area to this day. Vehicle tracks, however, were not the norm in the then South West Africa. The first vehicle with a petrol engine only arrived in Namibia in 1904, and in time would make it easier for these remote farmers to get karakul fur to the Windhoek depots. In this context, the steep cliffs of the central escarpment would have appeared even more daunting then than in the comforts of a modern-day vehicle. Close to the Gamsberg Pass, you still find the remnants of the tracks of the original De Jager’s Pass sloping down into the Namib plains. But even the tenacious spirit that enabled him to build a road here in the late thirties with the help of donkeys and a handful of workers, did not save Roelf from the same fate that befell the stock farmers of the era. Most of them had to eventually bend the knee to the unyielding desert environment. Even a little rainfall (less than 127 mm annually is the norm) was cause for celebration – and prompted the family to celebrate by eating a simple can of tinned fruit normally reserved for Christmas lunch only.
According to statistics provided by Vultures Namibia a vulture named Oscar was recently fitted with a tracking device. In just over a year the bird travelled a staggering 34,800 km in the Namib-Naukluft area. Outside of the protected area of the park, vultures like Oscar are vulnerable, but precisely because it is flanked by the safety of the park, there is hope for Namibia’s vultures. Here vultures are not persecuted for body parts used in traditional medicine like in other African countries. Power lines are also absent, which ensures that the vultures don’t accidentally get electrocuted when they collide with these lines. In this context, vultures have seen a slow but steady increase in the pro-Namib population over the last 15 years. “We have also seen the odd Cape vulture arrive from South Africa as a young bird. That is how far they fly. Then they disappear again and go back to their flocks,” says Chris.
Today Corona Guest Farm is a popular tourist destination and the perfect base from which to climb the Gamsberg Mountain, but the remnants of two olds wells in the river still speak of a different era. Given the intense struggle for survival in this remote area, the farmers back then still used poison as a first line of attack against predators. It was the norm to use poisoned bait in the veld to kill predators feasting ruthlessly on their prized livestock. The impact of poison on vultures was recently explained to me by Dr Chris Brown of the Namibian Chamber of Environment: “The more efficient scavengers like vultures find the poisoned carcasses first. And also die first. Before the farmers even get to the predators,” he says. Other precious creatures like meerkats also die in this way. The sad truth that emerged over the years – as conservation awareness grew – is that the farmers inadvertently contributed to a very impoverished ecosystem that only partially recovered when the area’s focus shifted to include wildlife- and tourism-based activities. In effect, secondary poisoning of vultures when eating animals that have already died from the poison still continues on the African continent today. Poison still causes more than 60 percent of vulture mortality in Africa. In spite of several awareness campaigns in Namibia, a few of the oldschool farmers still use poison to this day – not in the protected Namib-Naukluft Park, but in the wider adjoining areas.
After all, it takes a resilient spirit to recognise the self-same antifragile qualities in another creature; qualities that still prevail in all living things who dare to call this area home. TNN
If my grandfather would have been alive today (with the benefit of hindsight) he would have taken a bird’s eye view on the intrinsic value of vultures. Scientists say vultures are worth millions. Organisations like BirdLife International estimate that a single vulture is worth more than US$11,000 just for its cleaning services. “They are worth much, much more to governments in saved health service costs, not to mention tourism.”
CONSERVATION 21TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
22 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
NAMIBIAPhotographyFeature:ToastCoetzerNAMIBIA BARELAID 23TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
“Namibia is perfectly suited to the self-drive, adventurous traveller,” he says. “The roads are generally good, and even without a 4x4 you can reach truly spectacular destinations like Spitzkoppe, the Sesriem Canyon, Brandberg and even Epupa Falls.”
Toast usually camps when he visits Namibia. “Sleeping in a tent or, even better, under the stars, gives you a far more intimate experience of a place – you can hear the jackals howling, or the calls of the nightjars,” he says.
Photographically, his favourite areas are the Erongo and Kunene regions with their laid-bare geology, open roads and unique wildlife photo opportunities. “Nothing beats seeing a giraffe or elephant walking in a stark, strange landscape like the Palmwag Concession,” Toast says.
“Every animal, even something which might elsewhere be common like a springbok or gemsbok, becomes special and Toastrare.”occasionally leads photographic tours – contact him on info@toastcoetzer.com if you are interested to come along or follow him on Instagram @toastcards to see what he is up to. TNN 24
T oast Coetzer is a Cape Town-based travel journalist best known for his long association with the popular South African travel magazine Go (and its Afrikaans version, Weg). “Because Namibia is such a popular road trip destination among South Africans, I’ve been lucky enough to visit the country at least once a year, sometimes even two or three times,” Toast says. He has travelled extensively elsewhere in Africa too – with countries as diverse as Senegal, Mali, Rwanda and Uganda on his list – but believes that Namibia is the continent’s number one road trip destination.
WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
Every animal, even something which might elsewhere be common like a springbok or gemsbok, becomes special and rare.
25TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
26 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE 27TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
The bushveld on this 30,000-hectare private game reserve bordering Etosha is a thrilling adventure. Being on foot in this environment is indescribable. Once you have soaked up the incredible animal sightings from one of Ongava’s game viewers, peeped through the viewing window at the hide, and even seen a rock hyrax scurry over the deck, it is time to take the next step: to lace up your walking shoes and venture into the wilderness, ushered by a trained and armed guide.
van Schalkwyk 29TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
C
There is so much magic when you look closer, longer and more intentionally. It is in these moments that you spot an exceptionally camouflaged chameleon perched dead still on a tree trunk, or learn that rhinos use scratching posts conveniently located on the highway of animal crossings. When you stay a little longer and begin to decipher the tracks and markings, an elephant bath is revealed, and their sheer size and strength become overwhelmingly obvious at the sight of trees shredded to shards of bark. If you look a little more closely at the prevalent mopane leaves, you begin to notice the crystal-like dots formed by
SIDEWILDTHEONWALKA TREAD LIGHTLY AND LISTEN TO NATURE AT ONGAVA GAME RESERVE Text Charene Labuschagne
Le
risp winter air hangs over the horizon, creating a soft white filter for every tree and hill. Looking down, you see a veil of yellow and orange mopane leaves crushing softly under your feet. In a single file line, you tread lightly, one foot in front of the other, so as to not disturb the life that surrounds you, or the black rhino spotted at the lodge’s subtly lit waterhole the previous night.
Photographs Roux
tiny insects. The Oshiwambo people discovered it as a sweet treat. Once you are made aware of their existence, these crystals appear everywhere like dew drops on the vegetation. Without the hum of a car engine and the clicking of camera shutters, you truly get to listen to nature. Ongava’s walking safari is a quintessential bushveld experience, bringing you closer to the intricate details so often overlooked, immersing you deeper into the conservation efforts of the reserve, and allowing you to trek this vast terrain in much the same way as the original, rugged explorers did. Safety is essential when traversing the territory of big cats and even larger mammals. Ongava’s roster of dedicated and enthusiastic guides are trained in emergency procedures, should a wild animal become distressed or uncomfortable with visitors. For this reason, the walking safari is better suited to smaller groups. This in turn allows you to let your curiosity blossom and ask your guide any and all questions about the area, its fauna and flora. The guides appointed at Ongava have extensive experience on the reserve, and recently sharpened up their knowledge under the expert guidance of Cameron Pearce. As the managing and chief instructor of Ongava’s guide training and development, Cameron engaged the resident guides in daily walks. Training from such a highly acclaimed guide, recently named the Safari Guide of the Year, elevates the entire walking safari experience for both guides and guests. Come tread lightly and listen to nature at Ongava Game Reserve. TNN
31TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
Celebrating
32 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
Text Lara
Turning travel into impact: 10 years of TOSCO Potma
It is October 2011. Seven tour operators gather far up north on the Skeleton Coast, at Dr Philip Stander’s station in Möwe Bay, to discuss the recent lion poisoning in the Puros Conservancy in the Kunene Region. Félix Vallat, a tour guide at that time and inspired by Garth Owen-Smith and Dr Stander, has already had conversations with these companies about the need for tourism to support conservation, and in particular assist communities who live with wildlife, if its own long-term viability is to be ensured.
This year, the TOSCO team celebrates its 10th anniversary by reflecting on what has been achieved thus far and focusing on how to continue into the future.
TOSCO’s contribution to conservation
The uproar in the Namibian tourism industry as a result of the poisoning incident was a direct reason for stakeholders to open the dialogue. The consensus towards the end of the meeting was overwhelming: an organisation was needed to strengthen the relationship of the tourism industry with communities and conservation organisations. That same year, Félix founded the Tourism Supporting Conservation Trust which has become known as TOSCO.
More than N$6 million have been collected and disbursed through TOSCO over the past ten years. The funds were mostly raised from the tourism industry through memberships, thus linking travel with a direct impact on conservation. When asking partners what they value about TOSCO, many of them mentioned the complementary support to other organisations, flexible and responsive methods, and few bureaucratic barriers.
OPPOSITE: Namibia Horse Safaris is one of the companies that pays a conservation contribution fee for traveling over communal land | One of the first projects that TOSCO supported placed signboards along the Skeleton Coast to avoid selfdrivers from going into the areas of the Skeleton Coast National Park, Hoanib and Hoarusib riverbeds illegaly | TOSCO collaborates with other NGOs, for example with EHRA in organising training for game guards on elephants for them to assist their communities in Human-Elephant Conflict mitigation
Bridging the gap between tourism and conservation Félix’s aspiration with TOSCO was to create a platform that opened communication between conservation NGOs, the government, the local communities and the tourism industry. He also wanted to raise more awareness and promote education within the tourism industry about conservation matters. In the first year alone, 18 tourism companies joined TOSCO as paying members, reaching a peak of 42 members in the following years. With tourism funding it became possible to pay three Puros community members – Bertus, Kootie and Colin – to monitor lion movements and mitigate human-lion conflict. They were among the first lion rangers employed in Namibia. Ultimate Safaris has been a TOSCO member from the very beginning. The company’s co-founder and managing director, Tristan Cowley, explains: “We believe in meaningful conservation partnerships, knowing that the more collaboration there is, the better for conservation. As a true conservation travel company, our partnership with TOSCO is just one of those meaningful partnerships that drive conservation for a greater good.” Elise van der Meij, director of Explore Namibia, says, “We all benefit from this beautiful country that sells itself, with its pristine nature, wildlife and ever-changing landscapes. It is worth protecting. Of course, we can contribute with the ‘normal’ things, like not littering, being aware of our actions and guiding our guests to do the same. However, within 10 years TOSCO has built a network and tutored ambassadors in a way which on an individual basis we would never have been able to do. So, we are also very happy that TOSCO takes on the responsibility and stands in for us when it comes to conservation and awareness.”
33TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
With no budget for operating expenses, TOSCO initially relied on a team of tourism professionals devoting their free time to their passion for conserving the natural environment. The conservation trust now supports external projects managed by various organisations and also implements its own projects that fill critical gaps in the absence of existing projects to fill such gaps. All TOSCO projects have so far been undertaken within four main programmes: Living with Wildlife, Awareness, Research and Clean Travel. The Living with Wildlife Programme supported several projects related to human-wildlife conflict in 10 conservancies and developed a Conservation Contribution scheme, which enables tour operators to pay a voluntary fee for their tourism activities on communal land. The Clean Travel Programme started in 2017 with a carbon offset scheme in collaboration with the Eloolo Permaculture Initiative, whereby tourism businesses offset their greenhouse gas emissions by supporting the planting and maintenance of trees at selected schools. As part of the Awareness Programme, TOSCO organised conservationrelated workshops, established responsible travel guidelines and placed informative signboards in environmentally sensitive areas. Through the Research Programme, TOSCO supported researchers who focus on the long-term survival of threatened and endangered wildlife species, as well as annual game counts organised by conservancies.
As Uakendisa Muzuma, Large Carnivore Coordinator at the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism, explained, “What makes TOSCO unique is the way it is, it is not fighting for resources on the ground, it is contributing to the existing structures.” And Russell Vinjevold, Integrated Rural Development and Nature Conservation’s (IRDNC) Resource Monitor, said, “Among TOSCO’s main strengths and achievements is the flexibility and the ability to react to things fast. In other words, a lack of bureaucracy, or streamlined systems and processes. I can call TOSCO for a battery or a tyre for a car, and within a day TOSCO will come back and say, yes we can help you, or no we can’t. But you get an answer within a day.”
The COVID-19 pandemic had a massive impact on the tourism industry. It also resulted in a significant decline in tourism members joining TOSCO. However, it was kept afloat thanks to the major support of the Namibian Chamber of Environment and individual donors, and determined to continue supporting conservation throughout the crisis, it adapted by building stronger partnerships with the government and with NGOs.
34 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
In early 2020, TOSCO started collaborating with World Wildlife Fund Namibia to assist with the Wildlife Credits Namibia project. Wildlife Credits creates a platform for businesses to pay for conservation “products”: securing wildlife habitats and corridors, or conserving iconic species that inhabit these landscapes. Payments are used to reward communities, as the wildlife stewards, for positive conservation outcomes that are independently verified using tourist sightings or technology such as camera traps. This provides businesses with clear returns on their investment and data for their environmental, social and governance reporting, which is an increasingly important requirement within the corporate sector. TOSCO’s role is to market Wildlife Credits products to the tourism value and supply chains by explaining how the system works and describing the the tourism industry’s longterm benefits from supporting conservation outcomes.
Surviving the COVID-19 tourism shutdown
Building on its first project, TOSCO has become part of the team that administers the Lion Ranger Programme, partnering with conservancies, the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism (MEFT), and several NGOs. The programme is centred on community-based natural resource management (CBNRM) principles and aims for the adaptive, sustainable management of lions in northwestern Namibia, with particular emphasis on human-lion conflict challenges.
The disruptions in tourism due to the pandemic gave the Trust time to reflect on the past ten years and to prepare for The TOSCO Team
Most importantly, communities at grassroots level have received tangible benefits. “The community of De Riet (in the Torra Conservancy) sees TOSCO as a helping hand,” says Lorens Adams, Senior Councillor of the Riemvasmakers Traditional Authority. He explains, “TOSCO has helped us in many ways over the years: building an information centre that encourages tourists to visit De Riet for elephant tracking excursions, building a predator-proof kraal to protect our livestock from lions, installing solarpowered lights, and this year TOSCO bought us a new solar water pump, which has helped with our biggest problem: access to water. All of this has allowed the community to make a better life for ourselves.”
Planning the next TOSCO decade
35TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
Over the past decade, our TOSCO team has developed a solid understanding of community conservation and forged strong relationships with important conservation players, which enables us to be the link between these stakeholders and the tourism industry. In return, we will continue to help our members gain recognition as responsible tourism businesses among travellers, and grow into the Namibian benchmark for responsible travel. TNN
We invite tour operators, accommodation providers, car rental companies, activity operators and other businesses linked to Namibian tourism to join our responsible tourism movement. Our five membership categories – Friends of TOSCO, Cheetah, Leopard, Lion and VIP – vary in price and the level of recognition you will receive in return. For more details email info@tosco.org sustainable growth and more impact during the next decade. As a result of these reflections, TOSCO has been restructured. Félix Vallat has stepped aside as director and taken up the position of Chairperson of the Board. As the new director of operations, I, Lara Potma, will be striving to increase TOSCO’s paid staff capacity as part of our overall transformation strategy, rather than relying mainly on volunteers.
As tourist preferences change towards more meaningful travel with reduced negative impacts on the destination, we believe that our aim to achieve genuinely responsible tourism will become ever more important. Travellers are willing to pay more if they know that their money reaches local communities and conservation initiatives where it makes a real difference, and they will increasingly look for tour operators and agents who can guarantee this. TOSCO is in the best position to help Namibian tourism businesses adapt to this positive market shift. As the sales and marketing manager of Ondili, Carsten von Lüttwitz, puts it: “Supporting TOSCO is a logical step for us to show our commitment to responsible and sustainable tourism in the areas of our operation. By collaborating with TOSCO we enable our guests to experience responsible and sustainable travel.”
On the funding side, we will endeavour to grow the number of TOSCO members by promoting a better understanding among tourism stakeholders of what responsible tourism entails and by extending our platform to include the whole tourism value chain. Operationally, we want to extend our reach beyond the Kunene Region to include other important tourism destinations in Namibia and areas where tourism needs to be better aligned with conservation.
In this coming decade, TOSCO is introducing three new, pertinent themes to replace our four programme areas. We will link tourism and conservation with the themes of climate, education and wildlife. We are developing new indicators of success. They will be integrated with global and national standards and will better measure and monitor our impact on behalf of our members, which they can communicate to their clients. TOSCO will continue to serve as an active and dynamic responsible tourism hub, where members can exchange best practices on responsible travel, where conservation partners can address members with tourismrelated matters, and communities can gain more access to tourism benefits.
ABOVE: TOSCO is in support of the Lion Ranger Program, administrating performance based payments and organising trainings for 30 Lion Rangers across 10 conservancies in northwest Namibia.
Become a TOSCO Member
Lara Potma of TOSCO visiting a community garden to learn about challenges of crop raiding by elephants and identify the potential of chilli as a deterrent.
Etosha National Park Iona TransfrontierSkeletonPark ParkNaukluftNamib Daan GameViljoenReserveWaterbergPlateauPark /Ai-/Ais TransfrontierRichtersveldPark BOTSWANA Kavango Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area SOUTH AFRICA 28.27.26.25.24.23.22.21.20.19.18.17.16.15.14.13.12.11.10.9.8.7.6.5.4.3.2.1. Popa Falls Resort Onkoshi MileJakkalsputzMileMileWaterbergKhorixasTorraTerraceDolomiteOlifantsrusOkaukuejoHalaliNamutoniResortResortResortResortCampsiteResortBayResortBayCampsiteCampResort10872141VonBachDam1GrossBarmenResortSunKarrosDaanViljoenRehoSpa1NaukluftCampSesriemCampSossusDuneLodgeHardapResortDuwisibCastleSharkIslandHobasLodge/Ai-/AisHotSpringsSpaBoplaasCampsite 1 Public Private WINDHOEK 1 2 3 45 67 8 9 10 11 1213 14 15 16 201718192221 24 23 25 272628 RESORTS www.nwr.com.na+264 61 285 7200 +264 61 22 4900 ACROSS THIS LAND OF ENDLESS HORIZONS DISCOVER Etosha National Park TransfrontierSkeletonPark ParkNaukluftNamib Daan GameViljoenReserveWaterbergPlateauPark /Ai-/Ais TransfrontierRichtersveldPark BOTSWANA ZAMBIA ZIMBABWE Kavango Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area SOUTH AFRICA 28.27.26.25.24.23.22.21.20.19.18.17.16.15.14.13.12.11.10.9.8.7.6.5.4.3.2.1. Popa Falls Resort Onkoshi MileJakkalsputzMileMileWaterbergKhorixasTorraTerraceDolomiteOlifantsrusOkaukuejoHalaliNamutoniResortResortResortResortCampsiteResortBayResortBayCampsiteCampResort10872141VonBachDam1GrossBarmenResortSunKarrosDaanViljoen1RehoSpa1NaukluftCampSesriemCampSossusDuneLodgeHardapResortDuwisibCastleSharkIslandHobasLodge/Ai-/AisHotSpringsSpaBoplaasCampsite 1 Public Private Partnership WINDHOEK 1 2 3 45 67 9 10 11 1213 14 15 16 201718192221 24 23 25 272628 ANGOLA RESORTS
McCullochElzanne
Namibia lends itself to the pleasure of revelling in abundance and the magic of discovery when you take the time and effort to look closer. BurgerPompie SchalkwykvanNina SchalkwykvanNina SchalkwykvanRouxLeSchalkwykvanRouxLe
The blossoms last for approximately two weeks and they start blooming in the north first. Nobody can say when exactly, but it is worth being on the lookout.
For adventurous travellers to the Zambezi Region a flower surprise is waiting. There, the spring blossoms display a riot of colour. Spare yourself the frustration and buy Helga and Pompie Burger’s book before you travel to that part of Namibia regardless of the season. Namibia lends itself to the pleasure of revelling in abundance and the magic of discovery when you take the time and effort to look closer. TNN
39TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
This year the landscape even sports a golden hue after the good rains of the past season which ended a drought of several years. The dry natural grass cover even on mountain slopes lends a softness to the dramatic landscape of contrasts.
they stop to feed without hurry and in big numbers, providing ample opportunity for sunseekers to watch the natural world go by. Lazy lions rest in the shade of trees, watching and waiting. Big elephant bulls walk miles across the open veld in clear view to drink, bathe and dust themselves. Breeding herds choose specific waterholes where the little ones can learn waterhole etiquette and practice the skill of chasing away low-ranking species like giraffe, kudu, warthog and zebra.
Spring, which is truly the driest season in Namibia, offers the best waterhole experiences. Not only for watching animals, but the migrating birds returning from the north also offer pure delight to photographers because of the sparse, dry vegetation. Coming back to flowers in springtime – Namibia does have a flower secret. It is not obvious and if your eyes are not trained to notice subtle colours in the dry landscape you may miss it altogether.
pring in Namibia offers everything to please a weather-worn traveller. Except flowers in bright colours. The sun shines every day all day from tangerine sunrise to scarlet sunset. The sky changes to different shades of blue throughout the day and temperatures are pleasantly high. It is hot and dry since most of Namibia is desert, but cool to cold at night because of the lack of moisture.
The surest chance to escape cold, rain and wet is a visit to Namibia in spring. That is: August and September. There may be one last icy day or two on the central highland, the highest plateau around the capital, or in the deep south close to the Orange River if a cold front from South Africa pushes north. But it can never be cold enough to spoil your holiday for more than two days. Namibia is truly a destination where sunshine can be expected almost 365 days a year. And if, for instance, a foggy day along the coast – where I am writing these words now – contradicts my statement, get in your car and drive away from it. Just head inland. The fog supplies necessary moisture to life in the Namib Desert.
If by chance you experience a day like that and you are in Swakopmund, take a tour with Living Desert Adventures. It will introduce you to the amazing variety of desert life. And it will be a happy memory of a single day without sunshine in Namibia. Visitors from the northern hemisphere will be in wildlife heaven in Etosha and the Zambezi Region where the abundance of animals adds to the joyous weather. Because there is no water in the veld in Etosha at this time of year, animals are forced to walk across the pan and the flat plains to Alongwaterholes.theway
TRIPPING
It is everywhere and in abundance but one cannot be sure when the powder-puff blossoms of the albizia trees or the popcorn fluff on the black thorn acacias will bloom. Along the main roads from south to north and east to west they are everywhere. On the red sand of the Kalahari, on rocky outcrops along the road, on the hillsides around the capital and even in the city where indigenous trees line the streets or grow in open spaces. To me they are as beautiful as cherry blossoms – just not pink and pretentious. The albizia trees are beautiful in form, with a dark trunk. That is how you would notice them. Look for the seemingly dry trees with dark trunks in the landscape devoid of strong colours.
Rièth van Schalkwyk explores how to find joy in the abundance and discover the magic of looking closerSpring S
A sleepout to remember
40 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
Energised after a good night's rest on a stretcher and under a cosy duvet, rising early is recommended to watch, steaming cup of coffee in hand of course, as the rising sun magically colours the majestic mountain. Then it is a short drive back to the guesthouse for a breakfast with all the trimmings. Uis Elephant Guesthouse is situated in the heart of the small mining town of Uis, the gateway to Damaraland. It offers four standard and five luxury rooms, as well as three duplex luxury suites. With its rustic, yet elegant and modern furnishings, it is the perfect base from which to explore Brandberg and its surroundings. Apart from the sleepout, Uis Elephant Guesthouse also offers full-day excursions to Brandberg, sundowner drives as well as elephant drives through the dry riverbed of the Ugab in search of Namibia’s famous desert-adapted elephants. To fully explore Brandberg, you can book a three-night guided hike that takes you to the summit of Namibia’s highest mountain. Visitors heading further north can experience Kaokoveld with an exciting sleepout in the Hoanib River arranged by Sesfontein Guesthouse, the sister establishment of Uis Elephant Guesthouse. TNN For more information visit www.uisguesthouse.com or www.sesfontein-guesthouse.com
T owering over the desert landscape, anyone who has explored the area can attest that the Brandberg is an icon of Damaraland. The mountain holds the mythical secrets of the people who lived here many centuries ago, secrets preserved in their rock art and remains of their dwellings. It serves as a beacon to travellers, the more than 2500 metre Königsstein peak is visible from far away. It is the subject of numerous photographs, sketches, paintings, and even poetry, in an attempt to capture the feelings evoked by this imposing feature in an otherwise flat area marked by the gravel plains of the central Namib Desert. What better way to bask in the grandeur of this imposing mountain than spending a starry night in the veld overlooking the Brandberg? Uis Elephant Guesthouse offers a sleepout glamping adventure, an unforgettable experience of everything this fascinating environment has to give. Guests depart from Uis Elephant Guesthouse late in the afternoon for a picturesque drive to the sleepout location. As the sun slowly moves toward the horizon, the vehicle slowly meanders along a jeep track heading in a westerly direction. The enclosed game viewer ensures a comfortable trip, protected from the elements. Learn more about the environment from your expert guide Anton as you head further into the vast expanse of Damaraland. Anton, who has worked in the area for many years, will point out birds and wildlife and explain everything from the geological features of the Brandberg to the subsistence farmers who bravely rear livestock in this arid part of the country. As sunset approaches, the camp comes into view, the dome tents and burning campfire incredibly inviting in the middle of nowhere. The camp is tucked away in a small open space created by a rocky outcrop. The granite walls offer perfect protection against the predominant southwesterly wind that blows most afternoons, while at the same time allowing for glorious views of the Brandberg.
A delicious dinner is prepared in typical Namibian fashion – on the fire. Afterwards, everyone moves back to the campfire. It keeps the chill of the night at bay, and along with a star-studded sky and good company makes for the perfect end to an eventful day.
Arrival at the camp is timed to give just enough leeway for scrambling up the granite slope of the outcrop for a refreshing sundowner. As the sun dips below the horizon it bathes Brandberg in deep hues of orange, red and purple. After your sundowner, when you move down to the campfire, a chorus of barking geckos start their ritual communication, breaking the otherwise absolute silence of the desert.
ADVERTORIAL
Living wild in the land of Sand and Freedom: Three become four Text & Photographs Lee Tindall 42 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
43TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
The morning after this excitement I woke feeling slightly woozy, a little light-headed and generally not so great, which I put down to the fact that it was very hot and humid – we had the biggest downpour the day after Grace was born – and that I was very pregnant and not able to sleep at all. Then I realised that it was “go time”, and things were happening. I remember wondering whether all that snake activity and the excitement had led to early onset of labour. We were so lucky that despite some panic and an earlier arrival than planned, our little girl made it and joined the three of us in the desert. TNN Lee Tindall was born in Namibia. She grew up in some of the remotest parts of the country, living with her parents who were employed by the Ministry of Environment and Tourism, in some of Namibia’s most beautiful protected areas. It is here where her love and enthusiasm for nature developed, a passion that she promotes to this day. After spending a magical and memorable time living and working on NamibRand Nature Reserve, Lee and her family moved to the ProNamib Nature Reserve. A new chapter, that will be filled with adventure, growth and conservation. Alongside her position at ProNamib, she is the coordinator for the Greater Sossusvlei Namib Landscape - a NGO focused on large landscape conservation and upliftment. Her 'Living Wild' series for Travel News Namibia shares stories about a life lived differently.
From the beginning Connor had a curiosity about the world around him and an affinity for how things work. This didn’t go away as he got older, it simply changed. Watching him grow into a toddler with sand between his toes, a gemsbok in front of him and surrounded by fellow desert dwellers who loved him, was the kind of privilege we take for granted while it is happening.
Murray is an incredible snake handler. He has a calm and patient way which I envy. Eventually he managed to coax this Cape cobra into a box and take it far away. I accompanied him to make sure he took it away far enough.
The week of Grace’s arrival was the week I will forever refer to as ‘Snake Week’. We saw three different lots of snakes and had two captures. I was 34 weeks pregnant, during the hottest month of the year. February is known to be brutally hot – and humid if it is a good rainfall season. Fortunately for my family, we had a bathroom with the coolest tiles imaginable, but only hot water came out of the shower. That was its own kind of torture. At this stage I was still actively working at a lodge and catering for clients, despite the fact that our doctor had scheduled a final check-up in the coastal town of Swakopmund for the day on which she was born in the (not so coastal) town of Mariental.
I still believe that the red sand entered his soul through osmosis and that rolling in the sand became his freedom call. Then, after being the only child to enjoy our attention and adoration, his world was shaken up by a tiny creature – at 2.1kg she was the smallest person any of us had ever seen. She arrived early, in pretty spectacular fashion that didn’t involve any sand or desert, but it did involve some fairly hasty driving on the gravel roads.
Murray had gone to our local petrol station down the road (40 or so km) to get fuel and other essentials, which may have included ice cream. Connor was asleep and I had lumbered from the couch to the fridge in search of food that required no effort other than eating it. As I approached the fridge, which had a brightly coloured tea towel under it to catch the leaks, something looked slightly out of place. Enough out of place to stop me in my tracks as my eyes followed the weirdly shaped brown stick coming from the tea towel and leaning against the fridge door. Then I saw a head! The head of a cobra. Needless to say, I was no longer hungry, but I am still deeply impressed by my sudden athletic prowess and ability to move at lightning speed. Connor chose this very moment to wake up from his nap and wander into the kitchen. I tried to call Murray to encourage a hasty return home, no dawdling whatsoever. He encouraged me to keep watching the snake, so that we would know where it was when he got back. So, with nothing else going on, Connor and I climbed onto the kitchen table and chatted. A lot of our conversation was about the snake – there is a video, which to this day remains one of my favorite clips to watch. Murray hurried home and came to our aid. By that time I needed to go to the bathroom and corralling a dog, a two-year-old and watching a snake while doing that was not straightforward.
In the beginning of our journey there were three. Two adults and a small boy with blonde hair and blue eyes. After our first steps in the south and watching him make his way into the (then) head-high grass without looking back even once, we knew it was right. We knew that we all belonged here.
The day before she was born we had our final snake sighting of the week. Dealing with the previous ones had been relatively smooth in that they were outdoors and didn’t really require my set of hands. Capture One of that week did involve rearranging the rockery to get to the hole into which the snake slithered. Even from the shelter of our verandah it was extremely sweaty work just watching my husband do this. After much maneuvering of the rocks and sand, and perhaps some swear words, he caught the snake and took our still only child to release it. The catch that I am pretty sure induced labour required less moving of stuff, but more caution as it was indoors and neither small child or I were very quick at that stage.
44 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
Eight years of cycling for conservation
It’s an underappreciated job. Living out in the veld on only basic rations for weeks at a time. Covering considerable distances on foot over rocky mountains and sandy riverbeds. Exposed to the searing Damaraland heat in summer with little or no protection from the scorching sun. All in the name of monitoring and protecting the last free-roaming black rhino population left on our planet. The RMB Ride for Rhinos is an annual cycling event aimed at creating awareness of the tireless yet determined combined patrols done by Save the Rhino (SRT) trackers, rhino rangers (members of the local communities) and members of the Namibian Police. The event not only gives riders a tiny taste of the hardships endured by these individuals but it is also a means of raising funds for the ongoing conservation efforts by SRT.
RMB RIDE FOR RHINOS
45TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
Le Roux van Schalkwyk goes along on the adventure.
The 2022 RMB Ride for Rhinos took place from 22 - 26 July.
This year marked the 8th RMB Ride for Rhinos. As evident by its name, the event centres around three days of cycling through the rugged, yet beautiful terrain of Damaraland.
While days were spent cycling, followed by game drives in the afternoon and rounded off with epic sundowners, evenings were reserved for chats around the large campfire. Regarding the current status of black rhinos in the northwest, insightful discussions were had with the CEO of SRT, Simson !Uri-≠Khob, who joined the group on the first night.
Tommy Hall from the Blue Rhino Task Force was present for the duration of the event and gave an interesting talk on the use of mules for patrols in the area. This most recent initiative allows SRT to cover larger distances when out on patrol. With years of experience in rhino conservation, Hall’s anecdotes kept riders entertained late into the night.
Cycling the carefully laid out routes allows participants to thoroughly take in their surroundings and sometimes test their skill with a tough climb or two – exhausting, but always done in high spirits. It also makes them appreciate the vast distances that SRT patrols do on foot every day, even though for the riders it is from the seat of a bicycle.
After three days of traversing the challenging Damaraland terrain, the riders cycled into Wilderness Safaris' Damaraland Camp where the pool and cold drinks were waiting. As always, the event finished with a spit braai on the last night, after which the riders retired to the luxurious rooms of the lodge for a well-deserved rest.
The continued success of the event is attributable to the much-valued support from the main sponsor, RMB, and the partnership with Wilderness Safaris and CYMOT. Funds raised through the ride are invested in various black rhino conservation projects in north-western Namibia. TNN The team from SRT 46 WWW.
TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
The fight against the poaching of these majestic beasts in Namibia has recently flared up again, signalling to all that the battle is far from won. Thus it is imperative that the hard work done by the Save the Rhino Trust (SRT) and the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism is valued and supported. To this extent, the RMB Ride for Rhinos offers participants the chance to interact with individuals who are active on the frontlines of this battle as well as create a platform where issues hampering the conservation efforts can be discussed and possible solutions found on the side of the private sector.
This year saw the event return to its roots with the first three nights spent glamping at a picturesque campsite among weathered sandstone hills overlooking the Huab River Valley.
Venture Media conceived the RMB Ride for Rhinos in an effort to share the company's passion for black rhinos and conservation in general with others in a meaningful way.
As evident by its name, the event centres around three days of cycling through the rugged, yet beautiful terrain of Damaraland.
48 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
queleaQuelea
49TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
Photographs&Text
BurgerPompie
Visiting Etosha National Park in early May this year we encountered what might be a once-in-a-lifetime experience: watching a flock, or rather flocks, of Red-billed Queleas at Goas waterhole one morning coming in for their daily drink. Apparently this usually happens twice a day, but my fellow waterhole visitors in the car got a bit fed up with the once-in-a-lifetime experience after a few hours and I had to leave the birds on their own for the rest of the day, to my utter dismay.
W riting this article I cannot wait to mention their sheer numbers. I counted them and when I came to one million I got a little tired and time was running out, so unfortunately we will have to go again next year. The second fact, which might be slightly more accurate than the first, is that Queleas seem to be the most abundant bird species on earth, and we were lucky enough to see all of them in one morning at Goas waterhole. Apparently there are more than 1.5 billion Queleas in the world, take or leave a few thousand. The bad news is that over a million birds are killed annually, mainly by pesticides in control operations. The other main cause of deaths is food shortage. The fact that pesticides kill so many Queleas in turn leads to killing many of the predators hunting them; especially with large-scale, direct localised use of Apartpesticides.frompesticides and food shortage their other enemies are birds of prey. Lanner Falcons are the main culprit, which we can confirm. We saw about five Lanners hanging around in nearby trees waiting for the appropriate moment to have another and yet another mid-morning snack. Whether their sheer numbers are of any use to the Queleas to avoid or frighten potential predation is doubtful, because any selfrespecting Lanner can just fly into a flock of Queleas with its bill open and fill it to the brim in one go. Other raptors which also enjoy the taste of Queleas are Peregrine Falcons, which are, like Lanners, very agile and fast flying raptors. Also quite fond of this delicacy at waterholes are crocodiles, not present at this particular waterhole, Marabou Storks (present), and Greenbacked Herons (absent).
Unfortunately, not only the adult birds are at risk but fledglings and nestlings are also vulnerable, especially to Cattle Egrets and various hornbills like Red-billed, Yellow-billed and Ground Hornbills. Breeding takes place mainly after good rains in early summer (November and December), while in other regions like Namibia, where the rainy season is later, during January and February. As one would expect, breeding is highly gregarious as all of the Queleas’ other activities are. Apparently they are monogamous, but you could have fooled me – who has
Red-billed Quelea. Rooibekkwelea.
50 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
BIRDING WITH POMPIE scientifically monitored that activity? And if so, I am almost 100% sure there are a few males, and females, who do not stick to this very noble rule. Nests are usually built in trees, with a preference to acacia trees. Fortunately they do not strip the leaves around the nest, but unfortunately at times there are so many birds and nests on a single branch that the branch might break. As for distribution, Queleas occur in sub-Saharan Africa outside the forest zones, thus mainly semi-arid dry thorn veld and grassland. Cultivated land, especially in South Africa, is one of their prime targets, where they can demolish large areas of wheat, sorghum, millet, rice and buckwheat. These are obviously the places where they are most often targeted by control operations. Moving around in such large numbers – numbers which are especially visible at waterholes – one would expect that all your senses will be attacked, visually obviously, but also acoustically. According to Roberts Birds of Southern Africa the sounds of their different calls are chatter, warbled, tweedle-toodle, chirt and finally their alarm call “chuck”. Luckily our sense of smell was not present, maybe because of the strong wind. Although, being so many birds, I wonder if the wind was possibly something of their own making.
The final bad habit of these little birds is that they tend to visit suburban areas, especially bird feeders in gardens. Once word is out that you have put some seeds out you will soon have a flock of Queleas visiting and demolishing all the food from the feeding table before any other bird. Even the Laughing Doves seem to get out of their way when they arrive in numbers. If you are lucky enough to be one of the chosen few on their visiting lists, do have a look at the many variations in their facial markings. If in doubt about the identification of these birds, just count them – if they are more than a million it must be Queleas. TNN
As for their acrobatics, they should always be perfect if you look at the sheer numbers. They have to be exceptionally well-behaved in flight, otherwise the number of head-on collisions would be more than the car accidents during the annual Easter weekend on Namibian roads. In flight they look extremely well coordinated as they move in rolling waves from place to place. They normally move in a large flock with numerous smaller flocks also present, making the sight even more spectacular. One can imagine the havoc that would ensue if one bird should decide to fly in the opposite direction of the flock. Because of their size, these birds do not eat that much. Their diet consists of seeds, grass, and termites. They also do their daily excretion in gregarious fashion – if you ever wondered where the two hills near Halali Rest Camp come from.
51TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
AN ESCAPE TO YOUR OWN PRIVATE WILDERNESS at Etosha Heights with Natural Selection
Muted excitement is in the air. The break of dawn always holds the unlimited potential of the new day and in this case the prospect of amazing sightings.
Fifteen minutes into the drive the first rays of the sun cast a coppery light over the world and leave the entire area in a warm orange glow. We pass some red hartebeest, waterbuck, plains zebra and even a pair of Kori Bustards, Africa’s heaviest flying bird. The two-way radio remains silent, which means the other guide vehicles haven't seen anything noteworthy either, and so the tension builds. The morning carries too much promise not to deliver and one can almost feel it brewing in the air.
Safarihoek has 11 thatched chalets. The interior decorations impart an air of effortless style maintained throughout the entire establishment. Each chalet has its own private balcony from where the almost constant activity of wildlife at the waterhole can be observed in comfort.
Safarihoek is perched on top of a hill with majestic vistas of a mopane savannah extending as far as the eye can see. A waterhole, where animals drink throughout the day, is situated around 500 metres below the lodge. A sparkling pool invites guests to cool off in summer, while the friendly staff are on hand to assist with any needs.
As we descend the steep hill leading away from the lodge, the sun, not yet visible, starts to change the colours of the surrounding bush. With the change of light the temperature drops and adds a little extra bite to an already sharp winter's morning. We are thankful for the cosy ponchos handed out by Grevin before departure to shield us against the cold.
A double-storey photographic hide at the waterhole makes for an excellent pastime. The ground floor gives a water-level view, ideal for photographers wanting to get that perfect close-up shot. Even if you are not a photographer, it is easy to spend hours just listening to the sounds of the bush and observing the fascinating behaviour of wildlife around the waterhole. Whether it is an elephant visiting the waterhole while you are having coffee, or a giraffe showing off its long neck for a silhouetted picture during sundowners – Etosha Heights feels as if you were in the neighbouring national park. Except that you aren’t. Each sighting in Etosha Heights is a unique experience, only shared by those who are with you on the game viewer. This is truly your own private wilderness in the heart of the Namibian bush. TNN
“Good morning all stations,” our guide, Grevin, greets his fellow guides on his two-way radio before we depart Safarihoek. The crisp morning in July does little to dampen our excitement: we are leaving on a game drive through the Etosha Heights Private Reserve.
As if preplanned, a pride of 12 lions make their appearance together with the rising sun. The big cats leisurely walk parallel to the jeep track and seem to pay little attention to us. Grevin informs the other guides of our location while simultaneously manoeuvring into position for a beautiful picture of a young lion walking through the grass, perfectly lit by the golden rays of the rising sun. The sudden realisation of tension and the immense beauty of the scene leaves everyone on the game viewer in a sense of awe. The lions were the highlight of the day, but the rest of the game drive – like all game drives on the property – was no less exciting. The 60 000 ha private nature reserve shares a lengthy border with Etosha National Park and offers an authentic wildlife experience. Game drives guarantee abundant sightings of plains game while lions, giraffes, black and white rhinos and elephants are also spotted regularly.
53TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
54 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
55TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
Eventually they ended up in the water, with both having difficulties to kneel down. Once back on the bank the fight ended a few seconds later, as abruptly as it had started. It could not be established who the winner was – the territorial bull or the intruder.
Male blue wildebeest become sexually mature at the age of two years. The curved horns of a bull can be 83 cm long. They reach a shoulder height of 1.4 metres and attain a body mass of up to 270 kilograms. The preorbital glands are situated between the eye and the nose, and are used by the territorial male for scent-marking by rubbing the glands on the ground or low vegetation. Blue wildebeest are large ungulate mammals of the genus Connochaetes and the C. taurinus comprises five distinct subspecies. Connochaetes taurinus taurinus (blue wildebeest or brindled gnu) is the one found in Namibia and in central to southern Africa. Individuals are silvery slate grey in colour, which is where the common name “blue” wildebeest originates from. C. t. johnstoni (Nyassaland wildebeest) occurs in southern Tanzania and Mozambique and is the largest subspecies. C. t. mearnsi (western white-bearded wildebeest) is the smallest and is found only in Kenya and western Tanzania. C. t. mearnsi is the darkest hued wildebeest while C. t. albojubatus (eastern white-bearded wildebeest) is the palest in colour and found in Kenya and eastern Tanzania. The last subspecies, C. t. cooksoni (Cookson’s wildebeest), is restricted to the Luangwa Valley. TNN
Dirk Heinrich
T erritorial blue wildebeest bulls can be spotted at several waterholes in Etosha National Park. Establishing their territory around these important drinking places is like hitting the jackpot for these bulls because the females have to come to the water at least once a day. This is the opportunity to mate with many females, but it is equally exhausting to keep all the rivals at bay. For intruding bulls this is also a problem because they will be chased away by the “owner” of the territory.
The mating season of blue wildebeest, also known as brindled gnu, lasts for about three weeks and coincides with the end of the rainy season. The mating season or rut begins on the night of the full moon, suggesting that the lunar cycle might influence breeding. During this phase testosterone production peaks in males, and bulls coming to the water will often not stand back when meeting the territorial bull. These photos were taken two days after the full moon in April this year at the Newbroni waterhole east of Okaukuejo in the Etosha National Park. It was likely the start of the mating season. The thirsty bull did not back off when the territorial bull approached, having just chased away another bull who came to drink. Once opposite each other, the two males – both in prime condition – kneeled without further delay to start their ritualised fight which lasted just over five minutes. Both bulls were strong and neither of them was going to back off. The battle was intense and gradually brought the two contestants closer to the waterhole.
BLUE WILDEBEEST FIGHT ENDS IN WATERHOLEText&Photographs
Embracing the wild sideof the Erongo
Text Photographs Le Roux van Schalkwyk
&
Situated some 10 kilometres west of Omaruru and roughly a two-hour drive from Windhoek, Erongo Wild invites guests to become absorbed by the natural beauty of the Erongo Mountains. It is a place brimming with life, which is evident as soon as you arrive. You are immediately surrounded by the calls of White-browed Sparrow-weavers, African Red-eyed Bulbul and a chorus of Rosy-faced Lovebirds – sounds that will become synonymous with Erongo Wild. Dassies (rock hyrax) perched atop their rock thrones join in the fun with a couple of shrieks, while intermittently the bark of a baboon can be heard from the surrounding granite hills.
S W A SAFARIS NAMIBI A
See Namibia's smallest antelope, the Damara dik-dik, on a game drive or hike | The entrance to Paula Cave | Ancient San art of a walking pregnant woman | Cardo is one of the friendly guides and has extensive knowledge of the plant and wildlife found in the area
Erongo Wild’s tented chalets seamlessly blend into their surroundings. Tucked into the boulders, each chalet offers privacy while nevertheless affording splendid views from their private decks. The main area is perched on a granite dome among purple-pod terminalia trees – the purple fruit adds a splash of colour to the greenery of other bushes and the redbrown hues of the granites. Whether theorising about what the ancient San art of Paula Cave is meant to portray, ticking another bird off the list or exploring one of the hiking trails – come and embrace the natural paradise of Erongo Wild. TNN
59TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
I t is no coincidence that this small paradise is known as Okapekaha by the Herero people, which means “where the water does not dry up.” The Herero, however, were not the first to discover the lifesustaining potential of the Klippdachs Mountains, as the northeastern foothills of the Erongo are called. Centuries earlier, the San inhabited the area and left behind fine rock art sites. The most prominent and interesting one, from an archaeological perspective, is Paula Cave.
The site was proclaimed a national monument in 1951 on the recommendation of German archaeologist Dr Ernst-Rudolf Scherz. What makes the rock art exceptional is described by renowned palaeontologist Henri Breuil as “large, red-haired humans with relatively long bodies, several animals, amongst them elephant and rhinoceros. Further behind them is a group of red-haired people, who are apparently under attack from a larger group of black men with arrows.” There are also rare drawings such as a walking pregnant woman and what looks like flute players. An excursion to Paula Cave offers a remarkable glimpse into the distant past. To become fully immersed in this fascinating landscape, several hiking trails are available. You can choose a shorter trail on your own or one of the longer guided hiking trails and learn about plants and birdlife as well as some of the fascinating geology. Trails are especially recommended to birders as nearly 200 bird species have been recorded in the area. Keep a look out for the seven endemics, which include Hartlaub’s Francolin, White-tailed Shrike, Damara Rock-runner, Monteiro's Hornbill and Rüppell’s Parrot. With nesting sites in the surrounding mountains and the dassie-rich crevices, Verreaux Eagles are also spotted regularly.
To become fully immersed in this fascinating landscape, several hiking trails are available for guests. Rosy-faced Lovebird For more information visit www.erongowild.com or contact them at res7@journeysnamibia.com
ZAMBEZI REGION Three adventures to embark on in the Abundant water lilies on the Kwando 60 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
Cruising
Up
Renting a houseboat with a group of friends is some of the best-spent money, not only because splitting costs makes the whole thing more affordable, but also because here fishing, when done without the primary incentive of sustenance, is a social sport. Catch and release is the name of the game, and if you are by no means a fan of fishing, but your friends are, rest assured there’s room on the boat to catch a tan.
NUMBER ONE: FISHING, NATURALLY, AND NAVIGATING THE WATERS
Few things truly say “holiday” like sitting on a folding chair, cold beer in hand, drifting on a majestic river while trying your luck with the fishing rod.
If you are in search of adventure, the wet and wonderful Zambezi region is destined to shake your soul, get your adrenaline pumping and make for unforgettable memories. And despite being less popular than destinations like Etosha and Sossusvlei, the tourist accommodation and activities here are comfortably on par with both the aforementioned. While game drives dominate inland activities, the Zambezi allows for another avenue of adventure – exploring the area via the water ways. The mighty rivers that run the region’s borders (Zambezi, Chobe and Kwando Rivers) are the nucleus of life around here, for both animals, locals and adventure-seeking visitors.
Everything up here revolves around the rivers. The local diet consists of equal parts free-roaming beef, chicken and fresh fish caught daily. Bream, as I have come to know on my recent visit, is the Zambezi’s equivalent to cob. It is always the catch of the day, always prepared and served with the head attached, and tastes delicious. While you are likely to enjoy a fillet of bream for dinner, it is the elusive tiger fish that has fishing aficionados traversing the hefty drive to the thumb of Namibia.
Whenever explaining travels, destinations, and the roads leading to adventure in Namibia, my right hand comes out. Palm facing down, index finger folded and thumb stretched out, the back of my hand instantly becomes a map. The shape of Namibia can be indicated with a single hand, and the Zambezi region is the thumb. No coincidence then that this corner of the land, often overlooked or left off visitor itineraries for being so farflung, can be summarised by “an indication of satisfaction or approval” (a.k.a. “thumbs up”). close with a crocodile on the Chobe Trying our luck on the Zambezi along the Kwando
61TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
Text & Photographs Charene Labuschagne
Baobabs and buffalos on Botswana’s side of the Chobe
NUMBER TWO: GAME VIEWING, ON STEROIDS Even the standard game drive becomes an adventure in the Zambezi. With the added appeal of spotting hippos, crocodiles, as well as elephants and antelope, wildlife experiences here are unparalleled. My personal favourite asset from the region is its abundant birdlife. The African Fish Eagle’s cry echoes through dense bushveld – how magical when you finally spot one after keeping your eyes peeled to the treetops. The Lilac-breasted Roller swoops around, showing off his brilliant colours and tailfeathers. I could spend hours watching the Pied Kingfisher as he hovers, dips, hovers, and dips again. During the heat of the day, or whenever larger species seem scarce, I would urge anyone to look intentionally at the treetops. Staying longer, looking harder, and finally spotting them is an adventure also!
transport
this region: a mokoro 63TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2022
The original means
NUMBER THREE: LIFE ALONG THE ROADSIDE, NO LESS EXCITING AS THE ADRENALINE ADVENTURES
While life around here revolves around the water, equal – if not greater – adventure can be had in a vehicle. For most travellers, venturing to the thumb of Namibia involves a lot of time in a car just getting there. Once you make it to the thumb, a slower pace is recommended. Between small towns and villages (which are scattered throughout the region in all shapes and sizes) traffic is common. Haste is non-existent, except for the odd free-range chicken dashing across the road. Look out the window, get out of the air-conditioned car, and engage with the quaint shops, shebeens and people with centuries worth of stories to tell.
This is the greatest adventure: not necessarily going further, higher, more extreme, fast paced; but slower, thoroughly, looking closer, really becoming present in the thrill. That of being close to a killer crocodile which, despite being the uncontested alpha, still scurries into the water when we approach. Seeing hippos bob up from under the water, where there was nothing a second ago, and the sheer size of their jaws when they yawn. Paying attention to the evolutionary wonder of birds, their endless variations, calls and colours. But also the people who live alongside these rivers, whose daily adventures on the banks of the Kwando, Chobe and Zambezi are a rare privilege to witness. TNN Game drive in Bwabwata, en route to Horseshoe Bend of in
When sitting at a waterhole, keep quiet! Allow the animals to get used to your presence. You will be surprised at the remarkable aspects of their private lives which they will reveal to you. Ethics is indeed a state of mind.
Text Pompie Burger
“You must do what you need to do before it is too late” (Johan Bakkes). If you do not go to Namibia – or when you have arrived and sit on the deck of your lodge drinking Gin and Tonic the whole day – you will miss out! TNN
For me, the wonderful thing about taking pictures with a cell phone (never done it myself!) is that it enables most users to take much better shots than your professional photographers. The other advantage is being ready in no time to take the ultimate picture, because the bigger the camera/lens, the longer it takes to get into position, get your settings right and find a suitable place to stabilise it. However, I do think that fortunately most of the basic rules applicable to a fancy camera and a cell phone are pretty much the same.
64 WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM
Do not praise yourself while going to battle. Praise yourself coming out of battle. Russian proverb
On Photography.
P hotography, when in Namibia, is of utmost importance. After all you need to capture the beauty of this picturesque country, be it with your cell phone or your camera with a 2000 mm lens. There are many wild and wonderful things in Namibia, so you should be fully prepared to have lots of space on your memory card, and your co-passengers should also have a full memory card of patience. You can repeat and relive so much of your trip when going through your photographs back home, but please refrain from boring your best friends with a slide show, keep it for your not so best friends/enemies. Without going into too much detail, you unfortunately will need some sort of equipment, in this case a camera or cell phone (not a Tamagotchi), or both. The paraphernalia like lenses, tripods, flashes and beanbags can then be added to satisfy your specific needs. With a fancy camera, keep in mind that travelling and camping can get a bit dusty, so be prepared to protect your equipment. Extreme temperatures, condensation, water and vibration can also harm cameras and lenses.
One of the best pieces of advice I got as a photographer, by well-known Namibian photographer Amy Schoeman: “Never let rules come between you and your photographs.” If we all use the same rules, we will end up taking pictures looking the same. In the end, being at the right place at the right time will be the ultimate moment to take the milliondollar picture. “We do not see things as they are, we see them as we are” ( Anaïs Nin). Remember, photography is like anything else in life, the more you practice the luckier you get. As with your fellow tourists, be patient. Patience is probably the best weapon in any photographer’s arsenal.
To take the most stunning and dramatic photographs, timing is of utmost importance. The golden hour during the day is plus minus two hours after sunrise and two hours before sunset. In Namibia, the light can be quite harsh during the middle of the day, resulting in rather flat pictures. Having said that, just do it whenever the opportunity arises. You can also ask the leopard to come back later when the light is better. Rather take your Mittag slaapie (midday nap) between 12h00 and 15h00. When going into the bush there are rules/ ethics to adhere to. Respect for nature, wildlife and your fellow travellers. The old maxim to not leave anything behind, except footprints, not even tyre prints (off-road), and to take only pictures, is always applicable. Needless to say, be careful with any form of fire (matches, cigarettes, firearms). Please do not leave any garbage, rather take it with you and discard it at an appropriate place. Do not do any pruning to get a better photo. When in the company of other tourists/ friends, be considerate when taking pictures (even if you are so excited you want to jump all over the lion), they also want to see and take photos. When you drive in a park and see people in another car in front of you busy taking pictures, do not charge past, wait till they finish or indicate to you that you can proceed.
Scan here to learn more about our perfect beer range, available in 16 countries worldwide. For more information contact nblexport@ol.na
Each journey is a story waiting to be told. Operated by Westair Aviation NCAA/AOC/010/2013 Let's FlyNamibia www.flynamibia.com.na
