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Travelireland Volume 5 Issue 56 December 2018

Tick Tock Tick Tock Can’t Wait Till 12 O’ Clock!


Kilkenny YuleFest

It’s the New Years Festival Dublin!

Pat Liddy Hangs out at the Five Lamps

Abbey Theatre

Winter Schedule

Hillsborough Castle

at Christmas

Snowqueen at Gaiety Theatre Bay City Rollers at Olympia Theatre

Niamh Barry Light on Earth Exhibition at National Museum of Ireland

be o, as Nore nce and the ween ens’ wishes.

Also on December 15-16, James Stephens Army Barracks are offering tours with a seasonal twist. As well as informing attendees of the history of the location, they will commemorate Christmas Day 1914 with an authentic re-enactment of the truce during the First World War.This was where soldiers from both sides met peacefully to share a precious pause in the carnage and a fleeting moment of brotherhood. Tickets are from €5. All proceeds will be donated to The Good Shepherd Centre in 4 Welcome to Leinster Kilkenny. Helping homelessness, the 6 organisation New Year’s Festival is funded by Creative Ireland the Kilkenny Culture and Creativity 8 underNational Museum Strategy 2018-2022, in partnership with 10 Kilkenny Theatre County Council. willLiddy host chef Edward 12 Lyrath FiveEstate LampsHotel by Pat Hayden for a Christmas Cookery 14 Abbey Theatre Demonstration, December 16. For €80, the 16 chef Courtville Matthew will show you how to Weldon effortlessly prepare his quirky adaptation of the 18 Explore Leinster traditional Christmas lunch. After the 19 demonstration Leinster Bars the team from Lyrath will serve up Edward’s seasonal meal with all 20 Yulefest Kilkenny the trimmings for everyone to enjoy as 22 Christmas Leinster Restaurants carols from the Soulful Spirit Choir add to the mood. 24 Irish Holidayfestive Dialysis The same day, Kilkenny’s 9th annual Santa 26 Charity Welcome Run will to takeMunster place. Participants of


ng by The e in for treat, Cola ors will also Cola m the sale of ncent De n poverty. the National eir seasonal ou can learn mas cards kets cost €30 some locally ot chocolate

ost its own etween ll shapes and h one a work h and d. Entry is er 8, for €10 ster florist dees how to

28 30 31 32 33 34 36 38 39 40 42 44 45 46 48 49 50

Waterford Crystal StreetSmart Ireland Explore Munster Munster Restaurants Munster Bars Cobh Heritage Centre Shopping Welcome to Connaught Connaught Bars Connaught Restaurants MCD Events Explore Connaught Welcome to Ulster Hillsborough Castle Ulster Restaurants Ulster Bars Great Irish Writers

Ellen Media Communications Ltd Suite 4, Talbot Business Centre, 19 Talbot St , Dublin 1. Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag

fitness levels are very welcome to become involved in this day out for all the family, while supporting the local St.Vincent de Paul charity. Organisers urge runners to come dressed as St Nick, something festive Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome to our December issue! Whether orthis to at least to wear a Santa hat. Prizes will is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once again to trace be awarded for the best costumes. the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some Vladimir’s Viennese Christmas will see the small way be special able toguests gentlytenor, guide you as you plan your stay here. violinist, alongtowith Sean Costello and soprano, Claudia Boyle, Thisa Christmas month, wefestive put aglow spotlight onofsome add to some the fantastic events happening in the Irish capital – including Abbeyfrom Theatre’s most beautiful classicalthe melodies the Winter season, the National Museum’s Romantic era. Taking place December 17 at at the 3Arena and hypnotist Keith new exhibition, Walking with Dinosaurs St Canice’s Cathedral, tickets are from €20. Barry’s magic new show. At the Mayor’s Annual Christmas Concert on December 21, various special Coming up to Christmas, we highlight festivities taking place around the country guests and choirs will come together at The such as Yulefest Down’s Hillsborough Castle’s special seasonal Watergate Theatre Kilkenny, to put on Co. a show and to events andfor Dublin’s NewWomen’s Year’s Festival. Also, Pat Liddy writes about the Five raise money the Amber Refuge Centre. Entry is €10. Lamps landmark and the magazine gives the run down on the best theatre to For the full list of Yulefest Kilkenny events see and where to get the finest jewellery. and to buy tickets, visit the festival’s website atWhatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heartfelt

Céad míle fáilte and hope you enjoy your stay. Taisteal sásta (Happy Travels).




Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Stephen Porzio ( Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Contributors: Pat Liddy, Angeline Le Mercier, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’ , Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin, Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael McLaughlin, Roma Keeley. We wish to record our thanks to Michael Bates, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. We would also like to thank Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, and for the use of their images. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.



Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city. If you want to escape to the country without

GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country. County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible



Phoenix Park, Dublin through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone. Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ

St Kevin’s Church, Glendalough

All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the

smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June. Laois is where you can try your hand at a

Round Tower, Glendalough range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum. Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor. Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!



Celtic Lodge Guesthouse

In the Heart of Dublin City Centre

Celtic Lodge is located on Talbot Street in Dublin City Centre. Recently refurbished throughout, the rooms are decorated in modern colours and fabrics with luxurious touches, to make your stay in Dublin as comfortable and enjoyable as possible. The Celtic Lodge Guesthouse is located just 5 minutes walk from both Connolly Train Station and Busáras, the main bus station in Dublin. Popular Dublin attractions such as the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin Zoo, Book of Kells at Trinity College, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle and the Old Jameson Distillery are also close by. Celtic Lodge offers quality Dublin accommodation at great rates and is an ideal choice for your stay in Dublin.

81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 . Tel: 01 878 8810 Email:

Dublin’s Finest Traditional Irish Pub Traditional Irish Music Every evening from 9pm. Come on in for a pint and the craic! Come along and experience the authentic atmosphere found only at The Celt Bar, the traditional Irish pub in Dublin that’s as full of life as it always has been. Friendly faces, a classic bar menu, the finest selection of Irish whiskey’s, beers, ales and stouts, ciders and not to mention the goodness of real Guinness.

The Celt Bar 81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1

Party like it's

2019 New Year's Festival

Dublin have announced three events to ring in 2019 in celebratory style.



Now in its seventh year, the Fáilte Ireland and Dublin City Council initiative shall host what organisers are calling a spectacular line up of Irish music and entertainment. Taking place in the heart of Dublin, the iconic Custom House will be the location for NYF Dublin’s unique countdown events. The Irish capital will shine bright with the Liffey Lights Midnight Moment, as well as its familyfriendly equivalent, the Liffey Lights Midnight Moment Matinee. Both are making a highly anticipated return this year and are free to attend. However, tickets need to be booked in advance. For the Liffey Lights Midnight Moment Matinee, families and friends of all ages can ring in the new year together with entertainment starting at 6pm leading to the earlier countdown spectacle at 7pm. Kids can watch in delight and amazement as laser lights and aqua beams dance through the sky in perfect rhythm with music. Later, one can celebrate the final moments of 2018 with a bang under a canopy of sparks with the Liffey Lights Midnight Moment. This lighting spectacle will be performed

against the backdrop of the Custom House. It features ‘thrilling’ laser choreography and aqua beams, accompanied by live DJs and percussionists. The musicians will perform on the water in perfect harmony with the lights illuminating the midnight sky over Dublin City. The free event starts at 11.30pm building to a crescendo as the clock strikes midnight. “We are very excited to be bringing New Year’s Festival to the streets of Dublin once again,” said Nial Ring, Lord Mayor of Dublin in a statement. “This year promises to provide a bigger and better party than ever for locals and visitors alike, while also providing an opportunity to showcase our beautiful city on a global stage.” Nothing proves the Lord Mayor’s point more than the 3Countdown Concert, taking place between the light shows. Kicking off at 8pm, platinum selling artist Gavin James has been announced as the headliner, along with special guests folk duo Hudson Taylor, punk band Wild Youth and rock and rollers Inhaler. Singer-songwriter and pop star James won the Choice Music Prize Irish Song of the Year award in

both 2013 and 2016. His latest record Only Ticket Home was released this year and reached the top five in the Irish album charts. Produced and promoted by MCD Productions, tickets to the over 18’s concert cost €29.90 including booking fee. They can be purchased in Ticketmaster outlets nationwide and include entry to the Liffey Lights Midnight Moment event. “A highlight in our festival calendar, we are delighted to work with Dublin City Council and MCD Productions once again on the New Year’s Festival to deliver a fresh, fun and exciting programme of events to celebrate,” said Paul Kelly, CEO of Fáilte Ireland, in a statement. “Festivals and events are crucial to the tourism sector and give overseas visitors to Ireland a unique opportunity to experience the very best of our culture, people and places. This event is part of our strategy to grow off season tourism. With all eyes on New Year celebrations in major cities across the world, NYF Dublin is a great opportunity for us to showcase the capital and Ireland as a fantastic visitor destination and a top location to ring in the New Year to an international audience.” Reiterating Fáilte Ireland’s CEO’s point was Minister of State for Tourism and Sport, Brendan Griffin, who said: “I’m delighted to see such a fantastic line up of events announced for the New Year’s Festival. Once again, it promises to be a great celebration of both the New Year and our capital city. Not only does it provide a boost for the tourism industry in Dublin - with international media in attendance, it will highlight all that Ireland has to offer to visitors around the globe.” Booking details for the festival’s free events can be found at On the site also is a promotional video for the celebration, showcasing previous years’ dazzling firework displays. DECEMBER 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE



IRISH ARTIST NIAMH BARRY Dublin artist Niamh Barry will have her work presented from December 2018 through to the duration of 2019 at the National Museum of Ireland in new exhibition Light on Earth. Barry creates unique light sculptures predominantly in bronze. She is an innovator in using LED technology in her art, widely recognised as one of the first, if not the first, adopter of this technique globally. The artist’s signature works are included in many prestigious public and private collections internationally. Most recently she completed a monumental light sculpture in the headquarters of the Central Bank of Ireland and she will also be donating one of the works from her exhibition to the National Museum of Ireland on a permanent basis. The exhibition Niamh Barry Light on Earth will feature six signature pieces by Niamh made over the last 10 years. Included too are a range of engaging supporting materials detailing the creative journey from initial sketches to finished pieces. Between 2009 and 2010 she made Fouette, her first bronze, curvilinear, edge-lit piece. This prototype, composed of a mild, steel, frame, clad in bronze with handmade glass mosaic, was a ‘breakaway piece’ in this art form. Five elliptical connections take the



appearance of the ballet position from which the piece derives its name in her original ‘edge lit’ creation. As well being part of the exhibition, Barry has also donated the piece to be part of the museum’s permanent collection. In addition to Fouette, the exhibition also includes En Pointe II, an avant garde table with sleek angular lines; Model of a Staircase, a model of a unique large-scale piece measuring 8.5m commissioned for a private house in central Paris; the Model of Vessel Scape, the monumental sculpture she was commissioned to create for the new Central Bank of Ireland; Walking, a series of preliminary sketches and bronze maquettes, which ultimately led to her first freestanding sculpture; Gesture II, a mirror polished hand formed solid bronze opal glass mosaic with LEDS; Vessel II, a voluptuous light sculpture with LEDs; and Propulsion, a large, bronze LED light sculpture specifically commissioned for the exhibition. Barry specialised in ceramics in the National College of Art and Design (NCAD) before transitioning to metalwork and glass soon after graduating, teaching



In 2011, she was one of eight international artists selected to showcase lighting designs at Luxcraft, the prestigious London design festival.

herself welding. During this time, she also became involved in art direction and the television industry, earning credits on acclaimed films including the Brendan Gleeson starring comedy I Went Down, as well as Frankie Starlight and Snakes and Ladders. Following this, Barry worked for more than a decade making custom designs for commercial installations in hotels and restaurants, including the Shelbourne and the Merrion Hotels in Ireland. She also had a brief detour into conceptual furniture. In 2011, she was one of eight international artists selected to showcase

lighting designs at Luxcraft, the prestigious London design festival. Since then, her workspace has grown from a solo operation in a 20’ shipping container to a team of nine today, in a purpose built 3,000 sq. ft studio in Lusk in Dublin. Each sculpture takes Barry hundreds of hours to make. She is currently represented in galleries across the world including New York and London. Her client list includes various top interior designers and architects including Peter Marino, Nate Berkus, Miles Redd, David Easton and Kelly Hoppen and she has been profiled in many publications including Financial Times, How to Spend

It, Architectural Digest, Galerie Magazine and Modern Magazine. Speaking about her art, Barry says she “creates work viscerally, to be seen with your eyes but to be experienced emotionally.” National Museum of Ireland attendees can do just that from November 30 onwards. For more on Barry, visit her site at Meanwhile, for a sneak peak of her work that will be showcased in Light on Earth, see




Mermaid Arts Centre A Winter Wish

invited these ‘come from aways’ into their lives. For more information see page 14

social media sensation James Patrice and Dancing with the Stars' Erin McGregor

Dates: Dec 6 – Jan 19 Tel: 01 887 2200 or visit

Dates: Dec 21 – Jan 6 Tel: 01 679 3323 or visit

Also at the Abbey Theatre this month: Shame Dec 10-15, Thirst Dec 18 – Jan 5 (see page 14)

The Snow Queen

The Gaiety Theatre

The Gate Theatre The Great Gatsby This interactive musical adventure for children revolves around the mysterious Whistleberry Forest. Every Winter, a little robin visits the place with the ability to grant the creatures of the wood their very own wish. Dates: Dec 11 Tel: 01 272 4030 or visit

Bord Gáis Energy Theatre Les Misérables

Based on the legendary 1862 novel by Victor Hugo, before being adapted into a musical by Alain Boublil and Claude-Michel Schonberg, the play follows the lives and interactions of several characters in 19th century France, particularly the struggles of ex-convict Jean Valjean and his experience of redemption. Featuring iconic songs like ‘I Dreamed a Dream’, acclaimed theatrical producer Cameron Mackintosh's brings his Broadway production of Les Misérables to Bord Gáis Energy Theatre as part of a new UK & Ireland tour. Dates: Dec 5 – Jan 12 Tel: 01 677 7999 or visit

The Abbey Theatre

This immersive stage adaptation of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s classic novel about young, mysterious millionaire Jay Gatsby extends its run at the Gate following a string of sold out shows last month. The theatre is transformed into the central character’s mansion, famed for its decadent opulence and atmosphere. The seats are removed from the auditorium, allowing audiences access to the stage and backstage areas, the Green Room, hospitality room and the Studio space, enabling them to experience one of Gatsby’s unique and legendary parties, with a bar in full swing. Organisers say 1920s jazz age style costumes are encouraged and dancing shoes are mandatory.

Dates: Dec – Jan 20 Rivalling the Olympia Theatre’s Polly and the Magic Lamp is the Gaiety Theatre’s own Panto. The play centres on the evil titular character who with chilling treachery, kidnaps one half of a beloved couple and casts a ‘sub-zero spell’. This leads to our hero embarking on an adventure, trekking through storm and blizzard to find his lost love. Starring Irish native and West End star Louise Bowden (Mamma Mia, Mary Poppins) as the Snow Queen, the show will put to the test whether true love can melt a frozen heart. For more details, see page 42. Tel: 0818 719 388 or visit

Smock Alley Theatre

Iphigienia in Splott by Gary Owen

Dates: Dec – Feb 16 Tel 01 874 4045 or visit

The Olympia Theatre Polly and the Magic Lamp

Come from Away

Following sold-out, record-breaking engagements on Broadway, across the USA and in Canada, Come from Away will land in Dublin for its long-awaited European premiere, ahead of its West End transfer. The musical shares the real-life story of the 7,000 air passengers from all over the world who were grounded in Canada during the wake of 9/11, and the small Newfoundland community that



Stumbling down the street at 11:30am drunk, Effie is the kind of girl you’d avoid eye contact with, silently passing judgement. We think we know her, but we don’t know the half of it. Effie’s life spirals through a mess of drink, drugs and drama every night, and a hangover worse than death the next day — till one night gives her the chance to be something more. Inspired by the enduring Greek myth, Iphigenia in Splott drives home the high price people pay for society’s shortcomings, in a play organisers say will break audiences’ hearts. The Olympia Theatre's Family Panto is back and bigger than ever, boasting an all-star cast. The comedy features Ms Brown Boys' actor Rory Cowan in the lead role as Polly. He will be joined by Ryan Andrews (Fair City), Rob Vickers (Les Misérables), singer Jake Carter,

Dates: Dec 3-15 Tel 01 677 0014 or visit Also at Smock Alley this month: A Christmas Carol (Dec 4-5)


Antique, vintage and estate jewellery

Matthew.weldons Courtville - Matthew Weldon Antique Gallery, Powerscourt Townhouse, 59 South William Street, Dublin 2 Website - | Telephone 00353 (1) 6794042

Five Lamps The

By Pat Liddy

Many of Dublin’s monuments are known by their more commonplace nicknames than by their official title. The period lighting column on the North Strand is colloquially called the Five Lamps, mainly on account of its precise number of lanterns, but its official name is the General Henry Hall Memorial Fountain.




enry all was born in 1789 in County Galway and was educated at Harrow. Like many young men of his day he next headed for India where the opportunities of a brave new colonial world beckoned. He joined the Bengal Native Infantry. During a distinguished career of 32 years in the military he won many commendations and rose to the rank of Lieutenant General. He didn’t just conquer new territories across Northern India or put down inevitable rebellions but also successfully encouraged formerly aggressive tribes to settle and become economically selfsufficient instead of mounting terrifying raids on their neighbours. Given that the territory he was partly responsible for was the equivalent to Europe stretching from the Atlantic to the Black Sea he was no mean achiever. When retirement came he settled in Dublin where his house, Merville, on Foster Avenue, is now part of University College Dublin. He died in 1874 and is buried in Deansgrange Cemetery. Many of his descendants also went on to have illustrious careers in the British army and Foreign Service. Back to the lamp standard itself. General Hall was a very abstemious character so when he died he left money in his will to have two water drinking fountains erected in the city ‘to encourage sobriety’. So in 1880 the City Council erected this highly decorative

cast-iron lamp standard equipped with four drinking basins (for horses) and a chained cup over each basin for the use of humans. It was manufactured by the Sun Foundry in Glasgow. There is a continuing debate as to why the structure is called the ‘Five’ Lamps. Some think it was named after five important battles during the Indian Uprising of 1857-58. Others hold that they represent the five candles which brought luck in the Hindu tradition. The general opinion is that it represents each of the five roads that converge at this junction; Portland Row, North Strand Road, Seville Place, Amiens Street and Killarney Street. The North Strand is a reminder that this area was once covered by the sea which by the late 17th century was largely reclaimed but a beach still remained for another century where this road is today. By the 1980s, the monument was showing signs of complete neglect. It had rusted badly and two of the lamps had fallen off and disappeared. Then, as part of the commemoration of the city’s 1988 Millennium, it was carefully restored, the missing lamps replaced and the opportunity was used to install 70-watt high pressure sodium lights into the lanterns. Three missing lion heads (the water used to gush from the four lions’ mouths) were also recast but unfortunately the basins were filled in to prevent possible vandalism.

One of the monument’s close neighbours, on Portland Row, is the massive pile of the abandoned Aldborough House. Designed by Richard Johnston and built 1792 -98, this former grand mansion was Dublin’s largest private dwelling after Leinster House. It was built during the glory age of Dublin, the Georgian Period. In fact, this was the last of the so-called Great Houses of the city. However, its destiny was ill-fated from the beginning. The original owner, Edward Stratford, second Earl of Aldborough and Viscount Amiens (after whom Amiens street is named), ended up in Newgate prison for contempt of the House of Lords (of which he was a member). Soon released, he died before ever living in the house. His wife moved in for a short time before her untimely death. The building remained unoccupied until 1813 when a Cistercian monk with the wonderful name of Professor Gregor von Feinaigle set up a specialised school here which lasted until 1829 or so. Then Aldborough House was empty again until it became an army barracks until finally it was turned into a depot for the state postal and telephone service. You can only imagine how the impressive interior was mismanaged, to say the least. Since the turn of this century it has remained empty again and has recently suffered weather damage due windows being smashed and the lead flashings being stolen from the roofs. Vandals also caused a damaging internal fire.

Some rehabilitation to the roof was carried by the authorities but fingers are now crossed that at last an owner has been found that has the resources to finally restore the building to its former magnificence, albeit as modern offices One tragic incident that took place on May 31, 1941 almost wiped out the Five Lamps monument but luckily it escaped unscathed. Three hundred nearby houses were destroyed though, around 30 people killed and another 90 injured when a high

explosive German bomb was dropped in the early morning right beside Newcomen Bridge, just a mere 200 metres away. Ireland was neutral during the Second World War but that did not save the city from occasional random bombing of which this was the most devastating. While change is rapidly taking place in this part of Dublin the Five Lamps are assured to shine their Victorian steadfastness from their commanding position.







Whether you want to sit back and soak up the culture at Dublin’s historic sites or get out there and explore the streets, meet the people and sample the Guinness, our guides can help you make the most of your holiday and see the city like a local.



Dublin’s No.1 Bus Tour A D VIS

FREE Kids FREE Hotel Shuttle FREE Walking Tour FREE Little Museum of Dublin

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Buy in person at Dublin Bus Head Office 59 Upper O’Connell St, Dublin 1 Hop on and pay driver DECEMBER 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE


AAnnounce bbey Theatre

Coolprw int er ogramme

The Abbey has announced the full programme for the Avolon Winter Season 2018, comprising of five productions across the theatre’s legendary stages.


our of Ireland's leading theatre actors, Garret Lombard, Aaron Monaghan, Rory Nolan and Marty Rea, will perform Thirst (and other bits of Flann). Drawing from Flann O’Brien’s most admired works of fiction, together with his witheringly funny 1942 play about a publican caught serving alcohol after hours, the experience will showcase the Irish writer’s incisive humour and linguistic dexterity. The Abbey Stage will also host Come from Away, a new musical sharing the real-life story of 7,000 air passengers from across the world grounded in the small town of Gander, Newfoundland, Canada in the wake of 9/11. Following record-breaking engagements on Broadway, across the USA and in Canada, the play lands in Dublin for its longawaited European premiere, ahead of its West End transfer. A highlight of Dublin Fringe Festival, Shame will return to the Peacock Stage, a punk theatrical ritual combining theatre, performance and original songs. Also, from Fringe is Tiny Dancer, a DJ set for kids featuring dance tunes from every era and corner of the globe. Meanwhile, 12 Christmas Poems promises an evening of seasonal poetry readings by playwright and performer Gavin Kostick, as well as festive music. ‘We are delighted to be announcing such an exciting, eclectic winter programme. From a children’s disco to the work of the great Flann O’Brien, from the Christmas musings of Gavin Kostick, to a Fringe punk hit, topped off with an award-winning Broadway musical, there’s a very good excuse for everyone to visit the Abbey this season,’ said Director of 14


the Abbey Theatre Neil Murray in a statement. Running from December 2018 to January 2019, this programme is presented by Avolon, the international aircraft leasing company, based in Dublin. ‘We are proud to sponsor the Winter Season at the Abbey Theatre and bring the European premiere of Come from Away to the Abbey Stage,” said CEO Dómhnal Slattery in a statement. “As a small island nation, Ireland is recognised not just for its thriving economy, but for its vibrant arts scene. The Abbey Theatre has served as an important springboard for writers, actors and producers. It is incumbent upon us to lend our support to this community. Personally, I am looking forward to spending time at the Abbey with my family and friends for what will be an exceptional season.’ For more details, visit

1 Andrew Street, Dublin 2, D02 R856 Hours: 12p.m.–Late. Phone: (01) 677 4799



Matthew Weldon was born into the jewellery business. The owner of Courtville – a beautiful antique and vintage store in the Powerscourt Centre, Dublin 2 – he credits his ancestors with teaching him the ropes.



“My great grandfather started in 1890. Then there was my grandfather, another fantastic dealer. He died quite young so my grandmother took over in the 50s. Then my father joined in the 60s.” Now 29, Weldon worked in the business for three years before taking over Courtville. Despite his age, he is committed to maintaining a physical presence while many are moving completely online. “We have a traditional open-door policy and a phone we always answer. There's no 'please wait and then dial one.’ That old school service has been lost in many businesses as they become almost mechanical.” According to the owner, Courtville go above and beyond for their clients, even offering repairs. “I shudder thinking of having to book an appointment to get a ring sized. It's so impersonal.” Weldon though is also bringing a youthful vigour. “The internet and online selling are important. We use Facebook, Instagram, Snapchat and Pinterest. We post videos and blogs. On our website one can buy our jewellery. Each piece we sell online includes a full authenticity report from us, as well as an independent one.” Courtville specialise in antique jewellery, avoiding newly mined materials. They buy from the public or source second hand products online, resulting in cheaper prices while being good for the environment. “Antiques are the ultimate environmentally friendly goods.

Diamonds last forever. Everyone knows that. Meanwhile, if someone buys a necklace new, they pay for the diamonds to be mined, polished, shipped, delivered, the necklace to be made, the diamonds mounted - all labour costs added to the value of the jewellery. With us, you just pay for the jewellery itself.” Weldon adds: “Old rings were handmade so each is slightly different. People don’t want something the same as someone else. When you buy from us, you know it’s the one and only, unlike modern jewellers.” Proving his point, he highlights a beautiful ring in his shop window: “This costs only €2,750. It’s got rose cut diamonds which are extremely rare – 2 carats with a lovely gold shank.” Meanwhile, for those with modern tastes, Courtville also has jewels to impress. “I have Tiffany earrings bought in that store for €7,700 according to the client who sold them to us. We’re selling them at €2,950.” Speaking to Weldon, it’s clear he loves his work: “Before I was an accountant working in audit and liquidation for KPMG. While the training is fantastic and really stands to me in the business world, often, you’re around people not at their best. Courtville customers are always having fun. We love that and realise we are giving them something special - an instant heirloom and a moment to treasure” For more about Courtville, visit

Persian Cuisine

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Explore Leinster

The Chester Beatty Library

EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum EPIC is a state-of-the-art museum that tells the moving and unforgettable story of the 10 million people who left Ireland – and how they influenced and shaped the world. Experience this breathtaking story in the world’s only fully digital museum. This top-rated attraction houses the Irish Family History Centre, helping visitors uncover their Irish roots. Top 10 Things to Do in Dublin on TripAdvisor and shortlisted for European Museum of the Year 2018. Open daily 10am to 6:45pm (last entry 5pm). The CHQ Building, Custom House Quay, Dublin 1. +353 (0)1 906 0861

Glasnevin Cemetery Museum and Guided Tours Glasnevin is one of Ireland’s most popular attractions. Located 2.5km from Dublin centre, this is a hauntingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery where over 1.5 million are buried. Guides are passionate about sharing their love of history and recount the stories of Ireland’s fascinating past through daily walking tours. A history lesson made fun and memorable by guides who know their stuff, be prepared to enjoy yourself. Awarded Best Cultural Experience in Ireland and listed at no. 2 on Tripadvisor, Glasnevin is a cemetery of historic importance. Museum, genealogy, gift shop and café on site. Open daily for guided tours and re-enactments

Pat Liddy Walking Tours of Dublin

If you really want to get to know the city, then walking around with an entertaining and professional guide is the best way to discover its history and hidden treasures. Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade. The tours are described as entertaining and full of history. Even for someone who lives in Dublin, the tours surprises with loads of hidden facts. You can choose from a wide range of scheduled tours (all year round), including three brand new tours designed to get you off the beaten path. Docklands – The New Old Dublin, Hidden Gems of the Northside and The Tempting Whiskey Trail around the historic Liberties. Private tours can be arranged at any time geared to the topic of your choice. Tours are offered in main European languages. Find Out More Book at: Contact: or 00353 10832 9406

The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world. Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3pm and 4pm. Opening hours: 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat 11am-5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm. Tel: 01 407 0750

The National Museum of Ireland

Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance. Tel: 01 453 5984

The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. With three locations in Dublin covering Archaeology, Natural History, Decorative Arts & History, and one location in Mayo covering Country Life, you can lose yourself for hours in the many exhibitions. Free admission Tel +353 (0) 1 677 7444

Baggot Street welcomes a beautiful modern Italian restaurant! Open for lunch from 12pm to 3pm, Dinner 5pm 'til late, Mon- Sat

Phone | +353 1 676 6848 Location | No. 140, Baggot St., Dublin 2 18


Recommended Bars in Leinster

The Duke

Ideally situated close to Grafton Street, this old watering hole has been providing liquid refreshment and sustenance to the people of Dublin since 1822. They have a great selection of craft beers, whiskeys and gins for you to try, along with amazing food. The Duke is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of busy Grafton Street. 9 Duke St, Dublin 2 016799553

Sin É

Sin É on Ormond Quay is Dublin’s original late night alternative music venue. Whether it’s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic night’s that you’re looking for, Sin É caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If you’re looking for a great atmosphere and some of the best musicians in Dublin then Sin É is   

ǧ     definitely the place to be. ĆĞnjĎĒĊĊĚēċėĔĒ͕͖ēĔĔē

Dingle Whiskey Bar

The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. And every strolling14 into-15 theOrmond celt is likeQuay taking a trip to the west, play boys and Tuesday they host a Whiskey Tasting Class from chailĂ­nĂ­ payfor attention and& dance along the way to the early light Tel: 01 555 4036 01 555 4037 7pm with whiskey guru FionnĂĄn O’Connor. Learn everything you ever wanted to know about ÍœÍ•ÇŚÍœÍ––ƒŽ„‘–•–”‡‡–ǥ†—„Ž‹Â?…‹–›…‡Â?–”‡ the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey. ™™™Ǥ–Š‡…‡Ž–Ǥ‹‡–‡Žǣ͔͕͚͙͙͛͜͜͜ Tickets available at the bar for â‚Ź18.

the celt


44 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 677 4810

This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming. 15 S William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 9320

The Confession Box JT Pim’s

The Celt

Located in the heart of the Dame District, JT Pim’s is styled as a local bar in the city centre. They offer quality drinks in comfortable surrounds. From local beers such as 5 Lamps and craft beers such as Sierra Nevada, to fine wines and signature cocktails such as their twist on the classic Whiskey Sour, they have all tastes covered. Their bartenders are happy to take requests and guide you through the list. Relax in their bespoke armchairs or leather couches, or when the sun is shining, soak up the atmosphere in Dame Court.

Situated on Talbot Street in the heart of Dublin, The Celt Bar is always thronged with locals and visitors thanks to the authentic Irish experience that is on offer there. Visitors can sample the finest Irish whiskeys, beers, ales and stouts and enjoy live traditional music seven nights a week. The Celt also offer traditional Irish food seven days a week. The classic bar menu includes beer battered haddock and traditional beef and Guinness stew. There’s no better place to go to for the full Irish experience than The Celt Bar.

4 South Great George's Street, Dublin 2, D02 NR59 Phone: (01) 672 4645

81 Talbot St, Dublin Tel: 01 878 8655

One of the smallest bars in Dublin, The Confession Box is situated in the heart of Dublin City near the Spire. During the War of Independence rebel volunteers sought refuge here and received the sacraments from local sympathetic clergy. Recently, this iconic part of Dublin’s history was renovated. Now run by the capital’s friendliest bar staff, the spot offers great live music from Thursday to Sunday, as well as coverage of major TV sports events. Catering to all tastes, it’s no surprise The Confession Box has picked up much deserved awards. 88 Marlborough St, Dublin 1. 01 828 0028 DECEMBER 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE


You’ll Love

Yulefest Kilkenny Christmas Festival

Yulefest Kilkenny Christmas Festival returns this December, inviting all ages to enjoy a wide range of affordable, as well as some free, seasonal events. More information on all events listed below and tickets can be found at



Just three years old,Yulefest Kilkenny has quickly emerged as a go-to Christmas festival for all the family following a bumper year last December.The festival even made a recent listing of Skyscanner’s Guide to the Best Christmas Markets in Ireland 2018. Easy to get to and around, Kilkenny’s merry medieval streets, seasonal events and shopping, festive lights and award-winning dining provide the perfect atmospheric backdrop for taking elfies and selfies. From December 1-24, the MADE in Kilkenny pop-up shop returns to the old Kilkenny Arts Office, offering Christmas shoppers a selection of some of the best of the county’s craft. Meanwhile, McDonagh Junction Shopping Centre will be transformed into Santa’s grotto, as Nore Valley Park Christmas Experience and the man in red will be present between December 1-23 to hear childrens’ wishes. Tickets cost €15. On December 2, those passing by The Parade from 2pm – 8pm will be in for treat, getting to see the iconic Coca-Cola Christmas Truck.This year, visitors will also be able to buy exclusive Coca-Cola merchandise. All proceeds from the sale of merch will be donated to St Vincent De Paul, a charity helping people in poverty. Get crafty this Christmas at the National Design & Craft Gallery with their seasonal workshop. On December 6, you can learn how to make your own Christmas cards and porcelain decorations.Tickets cost €30 with entry including a taste of some locally produced mulled beverages, hot chocolate and mince pies. St Canice’s Cathedral will host its own mini Christmas Tree Festival between December 7-12. 120 trees of all shapes and sizes will fill the cathedral, each one a work art, while tea, coffee, fruit punch and seasonal goodies will be served. Entry is €3.50. Meanwhile on December 8, for €10 Newpark Hotel and Dutch master florist Lamber de Bie will teach attendees how to

make perfect Christmas crafts and delicious mince pies. There are also plenty of music events. Dublin indie rock group Little Green Cars will play The Set Theatre, December 8. Tickets can be purchased for €22.50. Also, folk band The High Kings take over Hotel Kilkenny for a gig December 9, performing Irish ballads in a new contemporary style. Entry costs €30. Fans of Star Wars should be on the lookout between December 15-16. Volunteers of the 501st Ireland Garrison – the only official Star Wars costuming club in the Republic of Ireland – will swarm Kilkenny dressed as stormtroopers. Also on December 15-16, James Stephens Army Barracks are offering tours with a seasonal twist. As well as informing attendees of the history of the location, they will commemorate Christmas Day 1914 with an authentic re-enactment of the truce during the First World War.This was where soldiers from both sides met peacefully to share a precious pause in the carnage and a fleeting moment of brotherhood. Tickets are from €5. All proceeds will be donated to The Good Shepherd Centre in Kilkenny. Helping homelessness, the organisation is funded by Creative Ireland under the Kilkenny Culture and Creativity Strategy 2018-2022, in partnership with Kilkenny County Council. Lyrath Estate Hotel will host chef Edward Hayden for a Christmas Cookery Demonstration, December 16. For €80, the chef will show you how to effortlessly prepare his quirky adaptation of the traditional Christmas lunch. After the demonstration the team from Lyrath will serve up Edward’s seasonal meal with all the trimmings for everyone to enjoy as Christmas carols from the Soulful Spirit Choir add to the festive mood. The same day, Kilkenny’s 9th annual Santa Charity Run will take place. Participants of


fitness levels are very welcome to become involved in this day out for all the family, while supporting the local St.Vincent de Paul charity. Organisers urge runners to come dressed as St Nick, something festive or to at least to wear a Santa hat. Prizes will be awarded for the best costumes. Vladimir’s Viennese Christmas will see the violinist, along with special guests tenor, Sean Costello and soprano, Claudia Boyle, add a Christmas festive glow to some of the most beautiful classical melodies from the Romantic era.Taking place December 17 at St Canice’s Cathedral, tickets are from €20. At the Mayor’s Annual Christmas Concert on December 21, various special guests and choirs will come together at The Watergate Theatre to put on a show and to raise money for the Amber Women’s Refuge Centre. Entry is €10. For the full list of Yulefest Kilkenny events and to buy tickets, visit the festival’s website at



Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Corfu Greek Restaurant

Corfu Greek Restaurant is a hidden gem situated on Parliament Street. Here, the friendly and attentive staff will serve you some of the finest Greek food at incredibly reasonable prices. Choose from a range of starters, such as calamari and dolmadakia, and then tuck into some delicious traditional Greek main courses, including moussaka, kleftiko and stifado, all washed down with a nice glass of wine from their varied wine list. 12 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 0050

Le Bon Crubeen

Silken Thomas

Silken Thomas is a family operated business, established for over 40 years. Focussed on giving that warm Irish welcome, Silken Thomas has a proven record in quality and service. Silken Thomas is where you can eat, drink, dance and sleep. Silken Thomas brings to you the traditional Irish Pub Lils, the more sports-orientated Squires and the contemporary Flanagan’s Lounge. For whatever occasion you are celebrating or a place to simply relax for a drink, Silken Thomas is the choice for you. The Square Kildare Town Co. Kildare +353 (0) 45 522232

Camden Kitchen This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin, with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It has won Best Value Restaurant Dublin in the Dubliner, Best Pre-Theatre listing in Hot Press and Best Casual Dining in the Restaurant Awards Value and Quality.


Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park. 16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144

Cliff Townhouse

Fine dining in Dublin city centre with seafood focused menus, including the innovative Afternoon Sea. The Cliff Townhouse restaurant serves brilliantly executed Dublin classics, menus are equally suited to a threecourse celebration or a light bite in the middle of the day. Staples include generous salads, eggs Benedict, Galway oysters, Irish lobsters, dressed Yawl Bay crabs, wild sea trout and 10oz Hereford rib eye steaks. 22 St Stephen's Green, Dublin 2 +35316383939

81-2 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 0126

Mexico to Rome



Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.

A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff.

14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 3595

3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 476 0125


Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value. 23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Kafka Restaurant

Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value. They serve lunch, brunch and dinner, offering a fresh healthy menu of delights including Spinach and Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Tiger Prawn Risotto and as they’re just a short walk from the City Centre, it’s the perfect place to start your night out. 236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6 01 497 7057


Café Topolis

The Left Bank Bistro

Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.

The Left Bank Bistro is 23 years in business, a true testament to its popularity. This modern restaurant is situated in the heart of Old Athlone, a stone's throw from the Athlone Lock on the River Shannon with views of the Norman Castle and its ancient architecture. The food is exciting and innovative. You can savour fresh fish and dishes such as beef carpaccio, chicken satay and an array of decadent, delicious desserts.

37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961


Fry Place, High St, Athlone, Co. Westmeath Call (090) 649 4446 Email:

La Ruelle Wine Bar Cirillo’s have gone to great lengths to ensure that their customers enjoy an authentic Italian meal. All of their pizzas are made to the traditional Vera Pizza Napoletana standards, using San Marzano tomatoes, 00 flour and fresh mozzarella all finished in a wood fire oven that they imported from Naples. All of their pasta, bread, pizza dough and ice creams are made in-house every day and they offer a wide variety of Italian wines, craft beers and aperitifs that beautifully compliment their seriously tasty meals. 140 Baggot Street, Dublin 2 +353 1 6766848

Toscana ‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’. ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food.

Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers. Perfect for the festive season or any events. 3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2


ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food.

Multi award winning Toscana Restaurant specialises in authentic Italian cuisine with emphasis on fresh organic produce from their Wicklow Garden. They pride themselves on creating menus around locally sourced produce and stock an extensive selection of fine wines from Italy and from other choice regions around the world. Toscana Restaurant is located on beautiful Dún Laoghaire seafront where you can enjoy panoramic sea-views overlooking Dublin Bay and Dún Laoghaire harbour. Toscana Restaurant offers a relaxed dining experience with impeccable service and a relaxed atmosphere. A visit to Toscana is a must.

1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4. Tel: 01 254 5353

5 Windsor Terrace Dún Laoghaire E Tel No 01 2300890

Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City. 1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799

Cork Clinic Offers Healthcare and Holiday Everyone loves a holiday. However, for millions of people suffering with kidney failure and dependent on dialysis three times a week, travel is limited to destinations where this life sustaining treatment is available and can be booked easily.


hat is where Irish Holiday Dialysis comes in. Opened in 2017, it is the country’s only vacation clinic in the field. It is based in the small countryside village of Banteer, Cork – connected to the city by major transport links - in the homely surrounds of the 200-year-old Rowan

Cottage. Clients and their relatives can relax on the centre’s patio and enjoy the country garden complete with hens, a herb garden and raised vegetable beds. They can also avail of numerous scenic walks. Staff are qualified and experienced renal dialysis nurses, registered with the Nursing and Midwifery Board of Ireland. Clients are assured of a stress free, friendly and personal service with treatment times flexible to suit the needs of the patient and travelling companions. Dialysis is delivered according to the prescription provided from the client’s home clinic. This means patients can relax, knowing they will receive their regular treatment on advanced up to date equipment. The cottage benefits from ample free parking. Clients can also enjoy free WiFi, a well-stocked fireside library and complimentary refreshments and home cooking. Simply call or email Irish Holiday Dialysis to discuss your requirements and the clinic will begin the booking process. It is opened year-round by appointment. Booking usually requires a month’s notice. Citizens of other EU countries can apply for a reimbursement of treatment costs, in their own country, under the European Union’s cross border healthcare directive. Since its opening, Irish Holiday Dialysis has welcomed holidaymakers from USA, Canada, UK, Europe as well as Ireland. For many, it was the first time where travelling to Ireland was possible. Call the clinic at +35387 3569061 or email 24


Yulefest Kilkenny, a curated Christmas festival in a fun sized city! Explore a range of festive events for all ages throughout December at

Combine shopping with skating or browsing with brunch, see light installations, hear choirs, visit Santa or take a whirl in our Victorian carousel. Sip hot chocolates or crafted cocktails against the backdrop of our atmospheric and walkable city. Easy to get to and easy to get around, explore all that Yulefest Kilkenny has to offer. ·

Victorian Carousel


Christmas Shopping


Castle Parklands


Ice Skating Rink


Seasonal Dining




Santa’s Grotto


Festive Installations




Festive Workshops


Open Air Music


Seasonal Surprises

Customise your Christmas at


Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.

Cork at night

Lismore Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes. County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles Reginald’s Tower



you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy. One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Tel: 062 61437 Email: County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and

there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’ and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.

Waterford Crystal S

ince the reopening of Waterford Crystal in 2009 and the subsequent purchase by Fiskars, Waterford Crystal has reestablished near its roots, on The Mall in Waterford City. Waterford Crystal is now thriving again and it’s a good news story for Ireland and, indeed, for the sporting world in general, given its connection with so many iconic tournaments. “A company that’s been around since 1783 is going to have difficult times and when we reorganised after 2009 and set up in the city, it was a proud day for all connected with Waterford Crystal. Those involved are so proud of the brand which is a product of the work of so many



generations of local people over some many years. We We have a manufacturing plant and brand experience in Waterford, where we produce a lot of crystal and give visitors an opportunity to visit the factory and see how we make our beautiful products,” explains David McCoy, Sales & Marketing Director of House of Waterford Crystal. “A lot of work goes into producing a one-off piece including the design and manufacturing. This is something that we have expertise in and it’s the reason why people come to us to design and produce their trophies, unique pieces and awards. We have a 12,000 sq. ft. show-room which represents everything we make in

crystal, including a whole section on golf and sport, which is a major part of our business. The list of famous trophies produced by Waterford Crystal for the sports industry alone is simply staggering. Waterford Crystal also designs the pieces for the prestigious Peoples’ Choice Awards as well as the spectacular Times Square Ball – a crystal ball which forms a prominent part of a New Year’s Eve celebration in Times Square in New York, colloquially known as the ball drop. There is huge pride in Waterford Crystal throughout Ireland and it is little wonder that it is one of the most popular items used to mark such special occasions. Even

An Unmissable Experience! Cobh, The Queenstown Story An informative and emotive story of Irish emigration. Learn about Cobh’s connection with Titanic and the Lusitania. Cobh Heritage Centre, Cobh, Co. Cork, Ireland. Open 7 days 9.30 – 5.30 (Sundays 11am) Tel 353 (21) 4 813591 Find Cobh the Queenstown Story on Facebook

Email: Web:

Dine Out

and Help

This Christmas


t this time of year when many will enjoy fantastic food with family and friends, the StreetSmart project is remembering those who cannot afford a nice meal or even a roof over their heads. Through StreetSmart people can dine out, as well as help in combating homelessness this Winter. In some of the best restaurants in Dublin and beyond, a voluntary €2 donation is added to each tables’ bill during November, December and into January. This money will then be used to support the organisations providing services, housing, advocacy and solutions to those sleeping rough. “What StreetSmart is trying to do is bring together the restaurant industry to address the biggest social crisis for a generation,” says founder Brian Cuddy in a statement. “Feedback from staff and customers has been overwhelmingly positive. Homelessness on our streets is hard to ignore and during the lead-up to Christmas, most are very happy to ‘give a little something back’ after enjoying their meal.” At the end of the campaign all participating restaurants will pass on the money raised to StreetSmart and its new registered charity partner SCOOP (Support Children Out of




Poverty). The latter was founded by two Irish brothers, working to raise money for those facing inequality across the world including in countries like Cambodia, India, Iraq, Kenya, Syria and Yemen. 90 per cent of the money raised through restaurants is shared among Irish homeless charities, while 10 per cent goes to SCOOP’s aid projects overseas. In the last three years, StreetSmart has successfully raised over €90,000, helping domestic homeless charities such as the Peter McVerry Trust, Focus Ireland and Stepping Stone. Restaurants involved with StreetSmart include Darwin's Restaurant, Locks, 777, Fade Street Social, Taste at Rustic, Coppinger Row, Klaw, Rustic Stone, Whitefriar Grill, Vermillion, Ukiyo and the Michelin starred L’Ecrivain. For the full list, visit restaurants-list/. StreetSmart as a concept has successfully run for 15 years across England and around the World in Australia, New-Zealand, Canada and South Africa. More information about the project is available at www., as well as on its Facebook page streetsmartireland.

Explore Munster

The Hunt Museum Cliffs of Moher Loop Head Lighthouse This popular tourist attraction is located at the mouth of the Shannon Estuary on the Loop Head Peninsula, which is one of two “Signature Discovery Points” in County Clare along the route of the Wild Atlantic Way. It also is a landmark location on the Loop Head Heritage Trail and is one of 12 Great Lighthouses of Ireland. The lighthouse is steeped in history and rich in maritime heritage with its origins dating back to the 1670s. The existing tower style lighthouse was constructed in 1854 and was operated and maintained by a keeper who lived within the lighthouse compound. In January 1991, the lighthouse was converted to automatic operation, and today is monitored by the CIL.Open daily (10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.) until 5 November.

The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Bunratty Castle

Tel: 061 312 833

Titanic Experience Cobh

The Burren

Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.

Blarney Castle

The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again.

Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912. The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.

Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.



Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Munster Room Restaurant

The Castle's Award-winning Munster Room Restaurant is critically acclaimed in the Michelin Guide, and holder of two AA Rosettes. Under the direction of the Resort’s Head Chef Tom Spruce, the award winning culinary team continually create dishes with intense flavors that will tantalize and satisfy every food lover’s palate and create a truly memorable fine dining experience. The restaurants original oak panelled walls, ornate ceilings, dramatic portraits and painted scenes creates an atmospheric backdrop to an exquisite dining experience, perfectly complemented by a comprehensive wine cellar. Visit our Fitzgerald Bar which houses the finest Irish whiskey collection. Located just ten minutes from Waterford City, and ninety minutes from Dublin and Cork airport, Waterford Castle Resort is a destination not to be missed. Voted #5 of the Ten Best Hotels in Ireland 2018 by Condé Nast Hotel of the Year 2018 by Irish Hotel Awards Luxury Hotel of the Year 2018 by Irish Hotel Awards Fine Dining Hotel of the Year 2018 by Irish Hotel Awards

The Copper Hen

The Copper Hen Restaurant is situated above Mother McHugh’s Pub on the Copper Coast between Tramore and Dungarvan in County Waterford. The restaurant was opened in November 2010 by award-winning chef Eugene Long and his wife Sinead Frisby. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming and the food is reasonably priced. Diners can choose from a range of locally sourced food, such as Kilmore crab claws, sautéed Tiger Prawns or Portobello mushroom bruschetta to start and Irish Hereford sirloin steak, grilled fillet of salmon or pan-roasted Dunmore Cod as main courses. The Copper Hen offers an unforgettable casual dining experience that visitors to Waterford can’t miss out on. Open Wednesday to Saturday for dinner and Sunday for lunch. Tel: 051 330 300

La Boheme

The Smuggler’s Inn

This ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. It’s not hard to see why as the Chef/Proprietor, Henry Hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. Panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience. For total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms. Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330,

The Lobster

Whether you’re looking for lunch, a casual dinner or just a quiet pint, the friendly staff at The Lobster are sure to look after your every need. Situated in the seaside town of Waterville, it’s no surprise that The Lobster serve some of the best seafood in Kerry and their beef and Guinness stew is also spoken of very highly by all who have sampled it. Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 9474629

Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort The Island |Waterford | Ireland w. munster-room-restaurant t. +353 (0) 51 878 203


The Strand Inn

Overlooking Hook Head, The Strand Inn is the perfect place to enjoy lingering breakfasts, relax over a long lunch or enjoy intimate, romantic suppers. Diners can look forward to the finest Irish beef, lobster and line caught seafood in a luxurious setting, characterised by beamed ceilings, original stone walls and planked floors. Dunmore East, Co.Waterford. Tel: 051 383 174 32


La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City. Open Monday - Saturday 5.30pm until late (Open Bank Holiday Sundays) 2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875645

Momo is a multi-award-winning restaurant in Waterford City, Ireland. They pride themselves on their fresh and healthy menu featuring ingredients from the local food producers of Waterford County. You will enjoy a wide range of international dishes including lots of vegetarian/vegan options as well as delicious meat and fish dishes. Momo featured in the McKennas’ Guides Top 100 Restaurants in Ireland 2018, 2017 and 2016, and won ‘Best Casual Dining’ in Munster at the Irish Restaurant Awards 2017. 47 Patrick Street, Waterford, Ireland. Call (051) 581 509

Recommended Bars in Munster

Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder, Irish Whiskey Experience

Dick Mack’s

Developed by whiskey lovers as a first class destination for whiskey enthusiasts and novices alike. Guests will be amazed by shelf upon shelf of Irish, Scottish & international whiskies and a wide variety of Irish craft gin & vodka, craft beer and cider, eclectic wine list, and creative cocktail menu. Fresh, locally sourced food served daily. Irish Whiskey Experience offers the chance to discover more about the history, production & renaissance of Irish whiskey, with 10 masterclasses to choose from, running every day. 93 New Street Killarney, Co. Kerry Tel: +353646635700

The Roaring Donkey

Perched up on “Top of The Hill” the Roaring Donkey is Cobh’s oldest traditional pub. Still original and oozing charm and authenticity the pub has been operating since 1880. It is known locally as the rugby pub but they do their best to accommodate most sports. A traditional music session has been running for nearly 40 years and is on every Wednesday night. Great craic guaranteed or enjoy a quiet pint in one of the finest beer gardens in town. The Roaring Donkey Tiknock, Cobh, Co. Cork Phone: (021) 481 1739

The Friary

Located by the river on the corner of Cork’s historic Shandon Street and North Mall, The Friary is a unique combination of old, new and eccentric. It's a homely craft beer bar with delicious gins and tonics. Look out for its astonishing range of special events; music, art, quizzes, the famous Drunk Spelling Bee, weird films, Penguin parties (really) and more! 62 Shandon St, Cork Tel: 087 668 0941

The Bierhaus

There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers. Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648 Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub. Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry Tel: 066 915 1960

Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant

Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May. 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1)

The Original Durty Nelly’s

Durty Nelly’s can truly be described as one of Ireland’s landmark pubs. Nestling in the shadow of the magnificent Bunratty Castle, it is the first stopping off point for generations of visitors to Ireland arriving at nearby Shannon Airport. Apart from the warm Irish welcome that you’ll find at Nelly’s, you’ll also enjoy the finest, freshest local produce – whether you’re just dropping in for a snack or staying for a fine dining experience. The Original Durty Nelly's Bunratty West, Bunratty, Co. Clare +353 61 364 861 DECEMBER 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE


Cobh The Queenstown Story

Heritage Centre


he exhibition at Cobh Heritage Centre, known as The Queenstown Story, is inventively situated within Cobh’s restored Victorian railway station, a building with its own historic story. The Queenstown Story will engage the visitor in a journey through time, recalling Irish emigration with real stories about real people. From the indentured servants of Virginia and the West Indies plantations in the 17th century, the early settlers in upper Canada, the famine victims of the 1840s to the large-scale emigration of the 19th and 20th centuries. The visitor will also discover the hardships endured by the convicts who were transported to Australia. The present town of Cobh has its origins as a small village nestled in the hillside on the southern shores. The village was known as Cove, being situated in the cove, or harbour, of Cork. The town did not begin to grow until the early nineteenth century, but its strategic importance was realised in the late eighteenth century during the American War of Independence. Vital shiploads of troops and supplies were needed by the British forces



fighting in America between 1775 and 1781. The entry of France into the war in 1778 heightened the danger of these ships being attacked at sea. This large and safe harbour provided ideal conditions in which the ships could assemble and be protected. The wars against France from the 1790s to 1815 were to prove the catalyst which led to the future prosperity of the town as Cove and its harbour played an important role in this war at sea. Cove went on to become a major port with both naval and merchant shipping and was one of the major ports of emigration. Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events. The exhibition is a self-guided tour with audio tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Dutch, Polish and Chinese. It is not just interesting and educational, but very emotive and thought-provoking. “Take a glimpse into our storied past and walk in the footsteps of our emigrant ancestors”.

Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events.

Recommended Shopping Powerscourt Centre

Courtville – Matthew Weldon

Located in Dublin’s Creative Quarter on the bustling South William Street is the Powerscourt Centre. Housed in a stunning Georgian townhouse, the Powerscourt Centre has over 40 shops and restaurants and offers shoppers a wonderful city centre shopping experience. The centre offers a range of fashion stores, such as All Saints, French Connection and Mary Grant and if antiques are your thing then the Powerscourt Centre is the place to go. There are a number of antique stores in the centre, including Courtville Antiques, Delphi Antiques, Lilly Fine Art, The Silver Shop and Monte Cristo. If you’re planning a wedding in the near future, the Centre also offers a number of superb wedding outlets

Courtville is a traditional Dublin shop with a friendly atmosphere, in business over 50 years and based in the Antique Gallery within the Historic Powerscourt Townhouse. Their collection of vintage, antique and estate jewellery are sure to capture your imagination. They are envisioning a more personal, accessible and enjoyable world to trade fine jewellery and engagement rings. Authenticity is guaranteed on every piece.

Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre Located at the top of Grafton Street, in the heart of Dublin city centre, Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre hosts a wide variety of top retailers. Household names such as Dunnes Stores, Argos, Boots, Eason, United Colors of Benetton, Mothercare, Elverys, Golden Discs and TK Maxx can be found here. When you’re finished shopping, you can relax in one of the many lovely cafes, head for a pint in one of the many nearby pubs, or take a stroll across the road in St Stephen’s Green.

Jam Art Factory

Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row. 64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 and 36


Instagram: @matthew.weldons Antique Gallery - Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, 59 South William Street, Dublin 2 01-6794042

Tights Department Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear. They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks.

Celtic Whiskey Shop

Ireland’s premier Irish whiskey specialists with a remarkable selection of beloved, rare and hard to find bottlings and shop exclusives. It boasts a knowledgeable and friendly staff who are proud and passionate about products, and are always on hand to offer advice. Feel free to pop in where we serve up in-store whiskey tastings all day everyday! If you're travelling, our staff can either wrap your purchases in protective wrapping or arrange shipping to national and international destinations. 27 – 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6759744

Mitchell & Son Wine Merchants

Unit 108, 1st Floor, Stephen's Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2, Ireland D02 VF67 Shop online: (deliver worldwide)

Designer Exchange

Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vuitton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands. 53 Dawnson Street, Dublin 2. 35 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 612 8080

Since 1805, family-owned Mitchell & Son have been providing Fine Wines & Spirits to the people of Ireland. Now in the hands of the 7th generation, they offer a high quality selection of New & Old World Wines, Champagne, & fortified wines. Home to the Green and Yellow Spot Irish Whiskeys, they also have a wide selection of Irish, Scotch, & Japanese whiskies, and other fine spirits. With a superb selection of Riedel Glassware and decanters, Coravin Wine System, and Le Creuset wine accessories, they are one of the most diverse independent wine merchants in Ireland. Mitchell & Son also offer Wine and Whiskey Appreciation courses that provide an understanding of the Irish market and a chance to explore your tastes. CHQ Building, IFSC, Dublin, D01 FC89 Tel: 01 612 5540

Recommended Shopping The Donegal Shop

The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products. The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists. Mention Travel Ireland to get a 10% discount 2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621

James Fox


Puro offers innovative collections of contemporary urban-wear and luxury sneakers from emerging talents as well as world renowned designers. Brands include Pal Zileri, Joop!, Baldessarini, Guess, Philippe Model, Gold Brothers, Android Homme, Mallet and many more. Puro is the only Irish stockist of many of these brands and while we feel a visit to this beautiful store is a must to truly appreciate the collections, you can also shop or browse first online at 34 Wicklow Street, Dublin, Ireland Call (01) 558 1406

The Kilkenny Shop

Amelia’s is home to a selection of beautiful gallery pieces that are perfect for the home or a present for someone special. They stock a range of art and studio ceramics lovingly handcrafted by makers from all over the country, specialising in local makers from the North-West of Ireland. There are little gifts and keepsakes for the everyday too! All pieces are handpicked by owner Frances Spears. She has over 20 years experience in the design and antiques business so you know you’re in good hands when you pay a visit to Amelia’s Irish Design. 29 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny Co. Donegal 087 2434060

Mackintosh by Francis Campelli

Mackintoshes were first produced in Ireland in 1889 and Francis Campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the most experienced hands The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium when you visit this store. for Irish designed products; from fashion and They offer the finest quality, waterproof jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. For over five decades, the Kilkenny Shop has Mackintoshes for men and women from stock or made to measure been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen from €485, as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories. Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce. 6 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 6777066

Irish Linen House

For over 135 years, James Fox Cigar and Whiskey Store has been Dublin’s focal point for lovers of Irish whiskey and premium Cuban cigars. Here you will find Ireland’s largest selection of handmade Cuban cigars, including rare and vintage stock. James Fox also stock a large range of premium Irish whiskeys and spirits to satisfy the most discerning palates. Tax-Free shopping available in-store and online. 119 Grafton Street, Dublin, Ireland. Tel: (01) 677 0533 Email: Website:

Amelia’s Irish Design

Irish Linen House create handmade tablerunners, placemats and napkins made from the finest Irish linen. Each piece of the collection is uniquely made, fusing historical elements with a modern, contemporary edge and has caught the attention of worldwide stores including Barneys of New York. Just up the road from the Jameson Distillery, their Smithfield store is the perfect place to pick up a unique piece of Ireland. Nr. Jameson Distillery, Bow Street Smithfield Village, Dublin 7 01-5329572 / 083-3010502 01 820 8774

46 South William Street, Dublin 2 01 6088608


This charming store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland. They stock homeware from around the world, including Irish designers - with everything from Irish woollen throws, glass vases and stationery on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice. Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2 01 679 9268 DECEMBER 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE


Welcome to Connaught

Macnas Festival Parade This Fierce Beauty

The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Galway city



Connaught has some Carrick on Shannon of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park the present day without interruption. Croagh in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician must for all. Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, For those interested in a religious experience Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist custom of trekking up the mountain has been are reputed to have appeared. The apparition faithfully handed down from generation to was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the from six years to seventy-five and included picturesque town of Westport, and its conical men, women and children. The shrine has shape soars majestically above the surrounding become so popular in modern times that the countryside with magnificent views of Clew Ireland West International Airport was built Bay beneath. especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, Connaught. religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst The county also features the pilgrimage site an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered has it all.

Recommended Bars in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)


Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.

This famous venue in the heart of Galway city is renowned as one of the best live music venues in the city. Across two stages, they host regular National & International acts. The friendly staff will assure you of a warm welcome and they serve great food in the Tavern along with free live music seven days a week.

17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820

The Front Door

Dominick Street, Galway 091 583397

Bosh Bar and Restaurant

Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar. Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534

Matt Malloy’s One of Galway city’s most popular watering holes, The Front Door is a contemporary Irish bar with a late bar, live music and an extensive drinks menu. Located in Galway’s bustling Latin Quarter and spread across two floors The Front Door features five bars, including a stylish cocktail lounge and Sonny Molloy’s Whiskey Bar. The Front Door is the perfect spot to sample Galway’s nightlife. 8 Cross Street Upper, Galway, H91 YY06 Tel: (091) 563 757

This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within. Bridge St., Westport Tel: 098 26655

The Quays Bar Galway

Roísín Dubh

It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now! Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540

Located in the city centre in Galway’s vibrant ‘Latin Quarter’ The Quays Bar Galway is one of Galway’s most famous and historic drinking establishments. For close on 400 years The Quays has catered to both Galwegians and visitors to the city of Galway. The restaurant offers a carvery lunch and evening a la carte dinner. The Quays was awarded IMRO Connacht Live Music Venue of the year 2017. 11 Quay St, Galway Tel: (091) 568 347 DECEMBER 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE


Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Venice Italian Restaurant

Upstairs at Wood & Bell

This is somewhere special to spend the evening, with a relaxing atmosphere and fine dining at its best. Experience Venice’s fine Italian cuisine, with their distinctive taste and beautiful aromas you’ll be sure to have those tastebuds tickled. With stylish facilities, they offer an elegant dining experience that their attention to detail and exceptional service will ensure. Venice is the best Italian restaurant in Galway City Centre and boasts a wide range of tasty Italian dishes.

A new restaurant by the celebrated former Ireland rugby player Keith Wood is now open in the lakeside village of Killaloe, Co Clare. Led by executive chef Paddy Collins, Upstairs at Wood & Bell features a succinct and assured menu offering classic, French-influenced dishes. Many of the fruit, vegetables and herbs are grown in the restaurant’s own gardens which overlook Lough Derg and are managed by Keith’s wife, avid gardener Nicola Wood.

11 Lower Abbeygate St, Galway City Phone: 091 530-751. Email:

Main Street, Killaloe, Co Clare. Wednesday to Saturday, 5.30-9.45pm. Advance booking is advised. Tel: 061 517 480 Email Facebook: / woodandbell

Eala Bhán

If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell. Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823

The Yew Tree Restaurant

Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food. Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255

An Port Mór Restaurant

Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West. 1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730

Péarla na Mara

Péarla na Mara offer Irish-inspired cuisine with a Mediterranean touch in their restaurant in Oranmore. Using only the finest ingredients, locally sourced in the West and delivered daily specialising in fish, seafood, meat and poultry dishes, along with mouth-watering vegetarian dishes. Pair your meal with wines chosen from the carefully selected wine list. You are welcome to bring your own bottle of wine for a nominal corkage fee of €5 for any amount of wine bottles. Unit 10, Howley Square, Dublin Road, Oranmore Tel: 091 483900 Email: 40


Ashford Castle

Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906. Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003

Upstairs @ West Restaurant

Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit. The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000

Brasserie on the Corner

Brasserie on the Corner on Galway’s Eglinton Street specialises in delectable seafood and steak dishes. They serve lunch and dinner and both menus are created with local, seasonal produce at their heart. These delicious offerings are created using produce from local suppliers. You will also be treated to an extensive and delicious wine and cocktail menu. You will truly find pride and passion on the plate! Brasserie On The Corner, Eglinton Street, Galway, Ireland Tel: +353 91 530333

Get Ready for a Brrrrrr...iliant Panto T

he iconic annual Gaiety Panto will return this year with a production of Hans Christian Andersen fairy-tale The Snow Queen. Taking place all through December to January 6, the Gaiety promise an ‘extravaganza’ that will bring audiences “a tale of friendship and love, that as always conquers evil,” as well as a show “full of song and dance and the odd slippery surprise”. Based on the same story that inspired D Disney’s Frozen, the play centres on the eevil titular character who with chilling ttreachery, kidnaps one half of a beloved ccouple and casts a ‘sub-zero spell’. This lleads to our hero embarking on an aadventure, trekking through storm and bblizzard to find his lost love. According tto the Gaiety, the show will put to the t whether true love can melt a frozen test hheart… Irish native and West End star Louise B Bowden will star as the Snow Queen. N No stranger to musicals, the actress

earned raves for her lead roles on stage in acclaimed shows such as Guys and Dolls, Into the Woods, Mamma Mia, Mary Poppins, Singin’ in the Rain and We Will Rock You. Nicholas Grennell (The Clinic,The Tudors) will play Jack Frost, while the legendary Joe Conlan returns as the Panto Dame, the recurring original character and constant figure throughout all the Gaiety’s musical retellings of fairy tales. The Gaiety has hosted their Christmas Panto every year since 1873, cementing the show as an important part of Irish culture. As the theatre note, families often come from far and wide to see it and for many the show has become as much of a family Christmas tradition as Santa himself. Tickets are on sale now.They can be purchased from Ticketmaster and the Gaiety Theatre Box Offices. Entry is €19.50 including the booking fee and restoration levy.

Bay City Rollers to Put on a Show You’ll Remember (Sha-la-la-la) L

egendary 70s pop rock group Bay City Rollers are hitting Ireland this month, fronted by lead singer Les McKeown. The Scottish band are best known for their tracks ‘Remember (Sha-lala-la)’, ‘Shang-a-Lang’, ‘Summerlove Sensation’, ‘Saturday Night’ and their UK number one smash hits ‘Give a Little Love’ and cover of the Four Seasons’ classic ‘Bye, Bye Baby’. Famous world wide as teen idols, the band were one of the UK’s biggest selling acts, even drawing comparisons to The Beatles. At the height of their fame, Bay City Roller fans had a completely distinctive style of dress, the main elements of which were calf-length tartan trousers and tartan scarves. Organisers promise Les McKeown’s Bay City Rollers’ Irish tour to be a



unique voyage back to the 1970s – the time where ‘Rollermania’ swept the world and Les and his legendary band dominated the charts becoming the soundtrack for a generation of teenagers. As well as playing all their classic hits,

the recently reformed band will be introducing new songs from the upcoming Bay City Rollers album. The band’s tour kicks off as they roll into Cork Opera House, December 3-4. They will then travel to the North for gigs at the Derry Forum, December 5, and Ulster Hall, December 6. On December 7, they will play Dublin’s The Olympia Theatre, rounding off the tour December 8 at the Royal Theatre in Castlebar, Co Mayo. Tickets cost from €33.50 including booking and restoration fees.They can be purchased from Ticketmaster. For more visit, visit or McKeown’s site at

You Won’t Believe Your Eyes … Keith Barry’s Spellbinding new show


eading Irish hypnotist, mentalist, brain hacker and mind magician Keith Barry is set to take his biggest show to date on tour across Ireland.

Titled Deception, the live performance will feature the TV star using brainwashing, subliminal messaging, cults aand much more in order to explore how easy the line between reality aand trickery can be blurred. Organisers say: “if you want to laugh until your face hurts and be badly deceived then Deception is ffor you.” Barry has been bringing his unique skills across the globe for many years. He has been showcased in over forty international television shows, including his most recent series, Y You’re Back in the Room - the first hypnotism programme on UK T TV for several years. Barry has sold out venues in tthe US, Australia, Canada, Spain, South Africa, the UK and in his native Ireland. He recently

presented his keynote speech ‘Mind Magic’ at The Cannes Lions Festival of Creativity,The Pendulum Summit and The Dublin Tech Summit.The hypnotist’s TED Talk has been in the top twenty-five TED Talks since 2008, currently boasting over twenty-five million views. To see Barry work his magic this month in Deception, visit the Royal Theatre in Castlebar, Co. Mayo December 28; the Landmark in Carrick On Shannon, Co. Leitrim December 29 and the Glenroyal Hotel, Maynooth, Co. Kildare December 30.Tickets cost from €30 and are available via Ticketmaster.

If one misses the magician’s show these dates, he continues his tour around Ireland from January-March 2019. For the full list of performances, see

Dino-Mite Walking With Dinosaurs Show Comes To Dublin these life–size beasts in this aweDinosaurs will once again roam when inspiring spectacle, which has still not the globally-acclaimed production, been matched in terms of scale and Walking with Dinosaurs – The Arena quality,” says producers Global Spectacular returns in 2018, starring Creatures CEO Carmen Pavlovic. Michaela Strachan as Huxley the “Many of our creatures have paleontologist. ved” since the last tour, now “evol BBC Based on the award-winning featuring distinctive display feathers, series, the show comes to the 3Arena, head crests and tail fans, reflecting Dublin from December 21 -23. The recent discoveries about the physical $20 million production features new, nature of these massive creatures. This state of the art technology, underlining show remains a must-see for audiences its position as the biggest and best of all ages.” dinosaur show in the world. The one-hour, 40-minute show This updated production will ts the dinosaurs’ evolution with depic rful showcase spectacular and colou almost cinematic realism. It has scenes changes to the dinosaurs based on the of the interactions between dinosaurs, latest scientific research including the how carnivorous dinosaurs evolved to likely feathering of some species. walk on two legs, and how the “I am thrilled that Walking with herbivores fended off their more agile Dinosaurs – The Arena Spectacular is predators. embarking on an international tour. A Walking with Dinosaurs – The Event new generation is ready to experience

Spectacular originated in Australia, where after years of planning, it came to life at Sydney’s Acer Arena in January 2007. Soon after this successful season, the show went on to conquer North America, Europe and Asia garnering record-breaking audiences. Tickets are available from Ticketmaster and cost from €38.50 including booking and facility fees.



Explore Connaught

Westport House

Kylemore Abbey Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic Victorian walled garden, which won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food.

Glencar Waterfall Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. The most dramatic waterfall descends from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.

Arigna Mining Experience Discover what coal mining life was like for coal miners in the Arigna Valley in Roscommon from the 1700’s until its closure in 1990. Visit the exhibition area to discover the history of the mine and then take an underground tour of the mine, where the methods used to extract coal are demonstrated, with lighting and sound effects added for authenticity.




Dún Aonghasa National Museum of Ireland - Country Life The National Museum of Ireland - Country Life in Turlough Park, Castlebar houses exhibits showing how rural people in Ireland lived from the time of the Great Famine right up until the 1950s. The museum features four levels of interactive displays and exhibitions that offer a fascinating insight into the lives of the rural Irish people in years gone by.

Connemara Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Surfers and windsurfers from all over the world have ridden waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable.

Westport House is one of the finest country houses in Ireland and since it opened to the public in the 1960s, over four million visitors have passed through its doors. There are over 30 rooms on show, where visitors can immerse themselves in over 500 years of history, going back to the time when the Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley ruled the estate. There is loads for the whole family to enjoy on the estate, including the Pirate Adventure Park, the Birds of Prey Centre and the Westport Train Tour.

Connemara is a world of unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the north through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean.

Located on Inismór in the Aran Islands, Dún Aonghasa is one of the best examples of a semi-circular stone fort in Europe. Located on the 300ft cliffside on the south of the island, it is one of Ireland’s most visited attractions and offers stunning views that stretch the length of the island.

Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside, offering spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding countryside. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year.

Welcome to Ulster

The Giants Causway Photo: @storytravelers The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise. County Donegal is in the northwest of the

‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.

new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Mount Errigal

Belfast Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or

County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the

Linsfort Church, Co. Donegal DECEMBER 2018 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE


t a s l l a h e h t k c e D

Hillsborough Castle illsborough Castle in Co. Down is transforming into a Winter Wonderland this December with a range events that will put everyone in the festive spirit. Running all month until December 23, be transported back to 1895 with costume performers playing the role of Lord and Lady Arthur Hill as they prepare for their festive Bazaar.The state rooms will be decorated and lit by candlelight as kitchen staff serve up historical Christmas treats to the sound of seasonal music from local musicians Downshire Brass and Sestina. For more of the Hill family, visit the castle between December 27-31 as the clan gears up for a dazzling Christmas ball. Listen to stories, play traditional festive games and sample the food, drink and music. Both the above are included in castle admission. On December 2 one can put their decorative skills to the test at a Paper Cutting Masterclass with local artist Emma Davison, whose artworks feature in the castle.Tickets cost £35. Davison will also lead a Christmas card making class the same day.This event is included in castle admission although drop-in spaces are limited. Hillsborough Castle’s team of experts will lead attendees on a special evening tour of the house on December 7 titled The Invention of Christmas. Moving from one elegant room to the next, discover the origins of seasonal traditions popularised by the Victorians and sample some of the authentic food, drink, games and music of the era. Tickets cost £15 with a festive beverage included on arrival. Meanwhile, have a handmade holiday at Hillsborough on December 16 by making




one’s own stylish Victorian Cornucopia and silhouette decoration.This drop-in family session is hosted by artist Kim Montgomery and is included in castle admission, though drop-in spaces are limited. For the Victorians, spooky Christmas tales stories became an essential custom of the season.Thus, the festival features a ghost story telling session by internationally acclaimed actor Ian McElhinney (Derry Girls, Rogue One) on December 28. Attendees can scare themselves silly in Hillsborough’s atmospheric, candle-lit throne room. Entry costs £20. Tickets for tours and events are available online at

café-bar 236 LOWER RATHMINES ROAD, DUBLIN 6 TEL: 01-4977057

Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox

Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.

The Ginger Bistro


1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121

55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers. 1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811

The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger. 7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421

Deane’s Restaurant

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150


They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table. 253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655

Vanilla Restaurant

Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.

Telfords Restaurant

Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268

Lough Erne Resort

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000

Sun Kee Restaurant

One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. 42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics. 36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134



In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant. 82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590

Speranza Restaurant

This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

Lusty Beg

This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300

16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213


Recommended Bars in Ulster The Crown Liquor Saloon

Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin. 51 Donegall St., Belfast Tel: 028 9023 3768

White’s Tavern

Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down. 2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3080

Kelly’s Cellars Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food. 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3187

This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city. 30-32 Bank St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 6058

The Duke Of York

The John Hewitt

One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further. 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 1062

Peadar O’Donnell’s

There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore. Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry. 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry Tel: 028 7126 7295

Great Irish Writers SEAMUS HEANEY


hen Seamus Heaney died five years ago, he left behind a legacy as not just a great Irish writer, but probably one of the most well known poets of modern times. His influence has been felt all over the world, with people such as former US President Bill Clinton and Vice President Joe Biden professing to be fans of his work. Heaney has also influenced a wide range of writers, such as Natasha Trethewey, Kevin Young and Colm Tóibín. Heaney was born into a farming family in Derry in April 1939 and was raised in the village of Bellaghy. The eldest of nine children, he attended Anahorish Primary School before attending secondary school at St Columb’s College, going on to gain a first class honours in English Language and Literature from Queen’s University in Belfast in 1961. He then took up a position as a teacher in St Thomas’ Secondary School in the city. It was around this time that Heaney’s first poems were published in student magazines, leading to the publication of his first book, Eleven Poems, in 1965. But it was the release of his second collection, Death of a Naturalist, the following year that brought Heaney to wider acclaim. The book contained some of his best known and well loved poems, including “Digging” and “Mid-Term Break” and was praised for its skillful use of metaphor and language, attention to detail and rural imagery. By then Heaney had become a lecturer, initially at St Joseph’s College of Education before returning to Queen’s University, followed by a spell as a guest lecturer at the University of California, Berkeley. In 1972 he moved to Wicklow and began



to write full time, producing many more volumes of poetry and prose. He would return to lecturing at Carysfort College in Dublin and would divide his time for the rest of his life between Sandymount in Dublin and the US, where he became a visiting professor at Harvard University. He continued to give readings all over the world and produce critically acclaimed volumes of poetry and in 1995 he was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature - adding his name to the list of previous Irish winners which includes WB Yeats, George Bernard Shaw and Samuel Beckett. He continued to produce work prolifically for the rest of his life, with his 2010 collection Human Chain being nominated for the TS Eliot Prize. Heaney died in August 2013 at the age of 74 following a short illness. Such is the affection that the nation holds for him that his funeral was broadcast live by the national broadcaster, RTE, and was streamed all over the world. Despite living in Dublin for much of the latter part of his life, Heaney was buried in his home village of Bellaghy. In 2016 the Seamus Heaney HomePlace opened in the village. The HomePlace houses an interactive exhibition, arranged over two floors and filled with personal stories and artefacts, dozens of family photographs, as well video recordings from friends, neighbours, world leaders, cultural figures, and the voice of the great man himself.

Travel Ireland Volume 5 Issue 56  

Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome to our December issue! Whether this is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once...

Travel Ireland Volume 5 Issue 56  

Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome to our December issue! Whether this is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once...