Travel in Taiwan (No.74 2016 3/4 )

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TRIBAL EXPERIENCE H UA L I E N

A SPECIAL KIND OF RAFTING TOUR Over the last decade, the Amis residents of Kiwit have been working to revive their connection with the river and to share their culture with visitors. The focus of their efforts has been the development of rafting tours that highlight the area's geology, ecology, and history. On those tours, launched from the Ruisui Rafting Visitor Center, a community guide is on board each raft to help safely navigate the rapids, describe points of interest along the way, and share personal memories of growing up in the area. The tours include one stop where rafters are asked to disembark and collect maifan stones, to be used for cooking a meal later. Also at this stop, shrimp traps are checked and the contents collected. The traps are then baited with pieces of meatball or sweet potato before being placed back into the water. Nowadays, the traps used consist of two plastic pieces that fit together, the design based on traditional tapered traps made from bamboo. After getting back into the rafts, you will float further down the river and then make another stop. After hiking up to the top of a hill, it’s time for an indigenous-style lunch. The porous maifan stones collected earlier are heated over a fire and then placed inside a container made with the calyx of the betel-nut plant, filled with water to which salt, shrimp, crab, and vegetables are added. The hot stones boil the water, quickly cooking the food. This dish is thus also referred to as “stone hotpot.” This is a traditional dish that was developed out of necessity. During the annual fishing rites that have been performed throughout the community's history, men up to the age of 40 stay along the riverbank for four days, building a temporary shelter, fishing, and performing a variety of tasks that form part of the tribesmen’s traditional training. During this time a way to quickly and easily prepare food is needed

Stone hotpot

Maifan stones

– the birth of stone hotpot. The fishing rites coincide with the end of the growing year and the harvesting of all crops, and are usually held in July. In contrast to rafting trips organized on the Xiuguluan by other outfits, the final destination of this tour is Kiwit and not the Rainbow Bridge further down the river. In the village, facilities such as showers and changing rooms are available. The tours have a six-person minimum, but individuals can inquire if there is space available and join other groups. Reservations should be made at least three days in advance. The rafting outings are conducted year-round, but are most popular from May through October, as the weather is warmer during this period and there is more rainfall, filling the river with more water and making the ride more exciting. Kiwit provides three rafting-tour options. The first is a one-day tour from 8:30am to 3:30pm, priced NT$2,000 per person. The two other options involve staying overnight in the community, either the night before with dinner included or the night after the rafting trip with breakfast included the next day. For each of these options, the price is NT$3,000 per person.

Floating on the Xiuguluan

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