Travel in Taiwan (No.76 2016 7/8 )

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RAIL/BUS/BIKE TAINAN

Yufeng-Zhumen Green Tunnel

Baihe Duck Noodles

Heading towards Baihe town from the Lotus Park, but veering off to the east, again on District Road 90, you'll come to a particularly picturesque piece of road known as the Yufeng-Zhumen Green Tunnel. The “tunnel” in question is not one bored through a mountain or plunging below ground; rather, it is a 2.5km-long avenue of old mango trees which, when viewed from either end of the road section, seem to form the curved roof of a natural tunnel. On either side of the road you'll see lotus fields, rice paddies, golden shower trees, and banana groves, as well as several pigeon crofts (pigeon racing being a popular hobby in this part of the country), all with the Alishan Mountain Range in the distance as backdrop. On arriving in the village of Zhumen, check out the local hotspot (or “coldspot,” rather) – the Zhumen Yuxue Ice Shop – a little corner place that specializes in refreshing flavored-ice desserts. Try your giant mound of ice with such traditional toppings as sweetened taro, mung beans, or peanuts, or stay in more familiar territory with fruit (passionfruit, pineapple, or plum) or a custard pudding.

If you find your stomach grumbling for some protein and carbs, head into central Baihe to check out a 70-year-old local institution – Baihe Duck Noodles. The shop can be a little hard to find; it’s situated in an indoor market with the entrance at the back of a gardening shop on Zhongzheng Road, and in fact couldn't be more low-key if it tried, being barely bigger than a studio apartment and with only a handful of tables that, of necessity, spill out into the aisles. The menu on the wall is hardly extensive either, and would be called limited by some; however, it's perhaps this simplicity that's been the key to the longevity of this place. It does one thing – duck noodle soup – and it does it well. Dishes come with healthy helpings of duck meat, a duck egg, spring onions, Chinese chives and bean sprouts, and your choice of noodles (yi noodles, oil noodles, rice vermicelli, or cellophane noodles). A small helping will only set you back NT$40, and a small bowl will be more than sufficiently filling for most. Those with bigger appetites can get a large bowl for a mere NT$60.

Bike Rental There are several places in the area where you can rent bikes. If you're arriving by train at Houbi, the most convenient is Cozy Bike Rental, on the left as you exit the station. Cozy Bike Rental ( 台南 . 慢慢租車店 ) Tel: 0935-033-043 Hours: 9am~6pm On the Red Cotton Tree Road you'll find the No. 3 Red Cotton Tree Road Bike Rental Shop, which rents bikes for NT$50/hr; opening hours seem to be a little sporadic, especially out of season.

Yufeng-Zhumen Green Tunnel

No. 3 Red Cotton Tree Road Bike Rental Shop ( 木棉道 3 號租車店 ) Tel: 0938-619-027 Tainan’s T-Bike service (a bike-rental service akin to Taipei's YouBike) is also available, with three stations in the area: one at the Xiaonanhai Scenic Area, outside the Putuo Zen Temple; one in Baihe, outside the 7-Eleven at the Dade Street/Yunong Road intersection; and the last in Jingliao. The rate is NT$20 per hour, with a maximum charge of NT$100. You can pay by EasyCard, iPASS, or credit card.

Getting There and Around The only railway station in the area is in Houbi. Take a local train from Chiayi Railway Station (15 mins) or from Tainan Railway Station (50 mins). Houbi is about 5 km from the town of Baihe, along County Highway 172A. A couple of local bus routes also cover the area. The Yellow 10 bus takes you from Houbi up to near the Xiao -nanhai Scenic Area, down to Tugou, and then terminates in Baihe town. The Yellow 6-1 stops near the scenic area as well, and terminates at Tugou village.

Zhumen Yuxue Ice Shop ( 竹門鈺雪冰枝店 ) Add: No. 114-1, Zhumen Borough, Baihe District, Tainan City ( 台南市白河區竹門里 114-1 號 ) Tel: (06) 685-3388 Hours: 7:30am ~ 8:30pm

Baihe Duck Noodles ( 白河鴨肉麵 ) Add: No. 13-2, Zhongzheng Road, Baihe District, Tainan City ( 台南市白河區中正路 13-2 號 ) Tel: (06) 685-5829 Hours: 6:30am ~ 3pm

Baihe Lotus Park ( 白河蓮花公園 ) Add: No. 465, Sanmin Rd., Yufeng Borough, Baihe District, Tainan City ( 台南市白河區玉豐里三民路 465 號 )

Baihe Duck Noodles

Google map with info

English and Chinese Alishan Mountain Range 阿里山山脈 Baihe 白河 Dade Street 大德街 Guan Yu 關羽 Guanyin 觀音 Houbi 後壁 Jiangjun Reservoir 將軍埤 Jingliao 菁寮 Jingliao Catholic Church 菁寮天主堂 Putuo Zen Temple 普陀禪寺 Red Cotton Tree Road 木棉花道 Shangjiadong Reservoir 上茄冬埤 Tugou 土溝 Wei Tuo 韋馱 Xiaonanhai Scenic Area 小南海風景區 Yufeng-Zhumen Green Tunnel 玉豐竹門綠色隧道 Yunong Road 裕農路 Zhongzheng Road 中正路 Zhumen 竹門 Travel in Taiwan

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