PINEAPPLES
The
pineapple, so named because of its likeness to a pine cone, originated in tropical America. It is technically not a single fruit, but a sorosis – the combination of up to two hundred f leshy f lowers. Many different kinds of pineapple are grown in Taiwan, but only 15 or so are common. Farmer Lin Qiu-mao currently grows about ten different varieties but, ref lecting Taiwan’s pineapple consumption preferences, 80% of his current crop is pineapple type #17. The first pineapples in Taiwan were a variety called kai ying , and in the 1960s and 1970s many varieties were bred on the island. Conveniently numbered, starting with 1, 2, and 3 (kai ying denominations), the most popular pineapples are tainong 4, 6, 11, 13, 16, 17, and 18. The peak pineapple season is March to July, but different varieties have different seasons. Pineapples thrive in Guanmiao because of the tropical monsoon climate and sulfur-rich water and soil, and are famous island-wide.
Guanmiao,
a district in the rural south of Tainan City characterized by bamboo-forested foothills, was once inhabited by the indigenous Siraya tribe. The town was named after the 300-year-old Shanxi Temple’s principal deity, Guangong, reflecting the temple’s importance. The name translates literally as “Guangong temple.” In the 1960s,
80% of Taiwan’s rattan furniture was manufactured here, but as the rattan industry declined, so did Guanmiao’s economy. Agriculture soon overtook manufacturing in economic importance. Nowadays, the area is known for its handmade, sun-dried Guanmiao noodles, bamboo shoots and, the focus of our journey, pineapples. At Farmer Lin’s wholesale warehouse, a truckload of perfectly stacked #17 pineapples is being unloaded and separated into several categories. Ripe pineapples go straight to the market, while the rest are sorted according to size, weight, and quality, a process that, after a lifetime of experience, seems effortless for the 47-year-old farmer. An astute businessman, Mr. Lin has expanded and refined his father’s company, even through poor economic years. The pineapple market is one of the more stable for agricultural crops in Taiwan, and pineapple #17 is a particularly good investment, with 6070% maturing successfully. Managing his crops, with pineapple plots all over the Guanmiao area, is not an easy task, and managing his time is paramount. Ten years ago he harvested too late in the season and lost fruit valued at over NT$800,000 to flooding, an avoidable mistake – and one Mr. Lin is not likely to make again. To hedge his bets and keep on top of the market, he plants new varieties
every year, and currently grows about ten different types.
For
lunch, we visit Longquan Yan Restaurant, where Chef Zhong Yu-yi has prepared a veritable pineapple feast for us. He presents five delectable pineapple dishes: pineapple shrimp balls; a pineapple wood-ear (edible fungus) dish with traditionally prepared cabbage (once a countryside staple because it would keep for long periods without refrigeration); pineapple fried rice; bitter gourd free-range chicken and pineapple soup; and a freshly sliced pineapple. When he opened his restaurant in Guanmiao after apprenticing in Yunlin County and Taipei, he says it was natural that he decided to use local pineapples in his dishes. All dishes are prepared with pineapple #17, because of its natural sweetness, except for the chicken soup, for which pineapple #3’s tanginess is preferred. For dessert we decide to try some pineapple pastry. Mr. Dai Chuan-yuan, proprietor of Doling Fonso, has agreed to show us his award-winning pineapplecake operation. Of Taiwan’s many pineapple products, the pineapple cake, a delicious pastry with a pineapplepaste filling, is the most popular. For a business that conducts the majority of its sales online, it is not surprising that the design of the company’s retail facility is sleek and modern. Taiwanese deitythemed packages line the shop walls.
Interesting Pineapple Facts: ． In Taiwan, the pineapple is an auspicious symbol often seen in temples and businesses. In the Taiwanese language, “pineapple” (ông-lâi) sounds similar to “Good luck is coming. ． Making “pineapple” cakes with a filling of winter melon instead of pineapple is cheaper, and many consumers can’t tell the difference. Pineapple cakes made with winter melon are much lighter, or yellower, in color, whereas those made with pineapple are browner. ． There are many ways of telling if a pineapple is ripe – smelling, tapping, pulling leaves from the top – but farmer Lin says that, "In Taiwan, choose the best pineapples by color, depending on the temperature. If the temperature is below 32 degrees Celsius, go for a pineapple that is yellow. If above 32 degrees, greener is OK; a yellow pineapple will be over-ripe." ．Some pineapples, like Red Pineapples, are specially hybridized for decorative aesthetics. ． P ineapple leaves are spiny and very sharp. In fact, in the past pineapple plants were sometimes grown around settlements as deterrents against intruders. ．Pineapple is a common ingredient in stinky tofu. ．On a hot day, mix pineapple, rum, coconut cream, and ice to make a refreshing Piña Colada!
Travel in Taiwan
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