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structure, which creaks gently with the wind. Inside, suspended rattan baskets provide hideaways, while the ray’s mouth serves as an outlook. It becomes an after-breakfast ritual for my husband and me to sneak into the chocolate room, scarf down a few handmade truffles concocted out of a mix of imported and Thai-grown cacao, and then, giddy with sugar, scramble up the Den and launch ourselves down the slide. Six Senses’ Swiss Family Robinson look doesn’t suit every locale, but here it works seamlessly. Staying in a tented villa with an alfresco bathroom and sprawling outdoor lounge makes eminent sense in Ko Kood’s sultry climate. Unlike resorts that seal you in from nature, you’re constantly reminded of the outdoors. A late-night dash to the bathroom during a rainstorm might leave you a little wet, but I prefer it to fumbling for the light switch and the shock of bare feet on ice-cold marble. The rain also brings out frogs—not just one or two, but a whole chortling chorus of them. One sounds like a demented trombone and after a few attempts to scare him off, I lie awake in bed one night, defeated. After all, he was here first. Still, there are some nagging questions in my head. When it comes to saving the planet, wouldn’t it be better not to build at all? Even by creating the most environmentally sensitive resort possible, you’re still building where there was nothing but jungle before. By encouraging travelers
to journey to remote destinations, aren’t you paving the way for less scrupulous operators? We’ve seen this development trajectory too many times in Thailand: pristine beach, guest houses and backpackers, and before you know it, you have Patong. And the private plane? I pose these questions to Thompson, who tackles them straight on. Look, he says, you’re burning as much fossil fuel taking a car and boat to the island. That point I concede, but how about the wider implications of building Soneva Kiri? Ko Kood, he points out, was headed for development. “Anywhere you see a world-class beach someone’s going to rock up there at some point,” he argues. “So I’ve always explained it in the following way: What is better? Is it better for us to go there and do our best to make a sustainable resort or is it better for another company to do a less sustainable resort?” I don’t have a ready reply, but I’m still not sure what the right answer is. ✚
GUIDE TO ko kood WHEN TO GO Ko Kood sees a lot of rainfall, so avoid the rainy season between May and November. The weather is drier — and cooler — in December and January. WHERE TO STAY Soneva Kiri 110 Moo 4, Ko Kood; 66-39/619-800; sixsenses.com; suites from US$1,192.
Outdoor Diversions From left: Flying off to paradise in a far corner of Thailand; enjoying an evening out on the resort’s beach.
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