May 2009

Page 84

t+l journal | special

report no more Shangri-La’s left in Asia? Farflung, bewitching places hardly touched by the outside world? Why, there’s even one actually signposted Shangri-La after that utopia of James Hilton’s classic novel Lost Horizon. It’s up in China’s Yunnan province and used to be called Zhongdian. Not long ago a treasure trove of ancient culture ringed by snowy peaks, the town now features shopping centers, traffic jams and an airport processing 4 million tourists a year. You can even get a B-52 cocktail at one of the town’s 25 bars. Sadly, Zhongdian is hardly alone in its hypersonic transformation. During my three decades in Asia, admittedly just a blink in history, I’ve seen the magic luster fade from such bygone gems as Hoi An and Vang Vieng, Darjeeling and Ubud, Hua Hin and Chiang Mai. Farewell my old friends, welcome to the age of mass tourism. Not to get too pessimistic and branded a nostalgic old-timer, I must note that a reaction has set in to the ravages that modern-day tourism leaves in its wake. This may prove to be a quixotic rear-guard skirmish against overwhelming odds, but groups, individual travelers and even businesses are taking action to retain the irreplaceable cultural identity, atmosphere and physical environment of these very special places. And you can argue that money from tourist pockets does often filter

W

HO SAYS THERE ARE

Paradise Rebranded

The popularity of Asia’s so-called Shangri La’s has put many of them at risk. Veteran traveler ANTHONY MECIR surveys what’s going on at three of them and, more importantly, tells us what we can do to help. Illustrated by WASINEE CHANTAKORN

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M AY 2 0 0 9| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M


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