Drinking Wisely and Well: A Fresh Look at France by Tracy Ellen Kamens

Drinking Wisely & Well FALL 2015

A publication of Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s A Winederful Life

A Fresh Look at France T

he reports of France’s demise as a wine world power have been greatly exaggerated. While there is admittedly a lot more competition in the market, it is abundantly clear that French wines continue to hold their own. France has long been a dominant voice in the wine industry as both a large and important wine producer and consumer. Among Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne, French wines are widely acknowledged and recognized to be among the best in the world, setting the standard for Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Traditional Method sparkling wines. Yet, with the rise in the number of wine producing countries – on the European continent and elsewhere – some of France’s prominence has declined in the wake of this competition. It is no longer the only game in town and, equally damning, its image as a has-been is writ large among newer and younger drinkers. However, despite this shift, a spate of recent meetings, meals and events suggests that France might be a bit down, but it is certainly not out. In fact, the French still maintain a strong presence in the world of wine.

Yes, the current world of wine has significantly expanded with wines produced all over the planet, but French wines will continue to be a critical part of that growth. More importantly, there are so many areas of France that have not been fully explored. While the aforementioned regions are well-known and well-regarded, the wines of Alsace have remained under the radar for too long despite providing great quality and excellent value. Additionally, the alpine appellation of Savoie is even less familiar, but the region still has something to offer the palate, inclusive of local wines, spirits and cheeses. In this issue of Drink W isely and W ell, we’ll take a fresh look at France and turn our attention to these vinous roads less traveled and find some magic along the way. 

Drink Wisely & Well ÂŠ 2015 by Tracy Ellen Kamens

Going to Great Height

ts in

CHAMONIX

ituated only an hour from Geneva Airport, the mountain town of Chamonix generally serves as an important winter destination. The peak of Mont Blanc — namesake for the pen manufacturer — beckons skiers, snowboarders and ice climbers alike to its dizzying height...

Ice Climbers trekking at the top of Aiguille du Midi in Chamonix

But, summertime can offer visitors nearly as many activities as those pursued during the cold weather months. Downhill skiing is out, but the mountain still provides plenty of snow and height for those in search of adventure. Plus, white water rafting through the quaint town or mountain biking through the mud are sure to bestow an adrenalin rush on the participants. To truly experience the majesty of the region, visitors can take a two stage journey up the mountain to a summit of 3,842 meters via twin cable cars. The Aiguille du Midi, which celebrates its 60th anniversary this year, definitely rewards the effort with its views of the Alps chain, Mont Blanc and other local peaks. Once at the top, there are several options available such as viewing a brief exhibit on mountaineering, walking the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Step into the Voidâ&#x20AC;? glass platform or simply watching rope parties set off on their hike. A cafeteria and gift shop are on hand for a hot drink, souvenir or a last minute sweater (it is quite cold even during the summer, given the altitude).

Drink Wisely & Well ÂŠ 2015 by Tracy Ellen Kamens

For an alternate descent, try paragliding, here known as parapente. A co-piloted flight down from the first cable car station takes 20-30 minutes depending on the temperature and wind speed, with flights subject to cancellation depending on the weather, and presents an amazing view of Bossons Glacier. A bit closer to the ground, but still among the rarified air, the Accro Park des Gaillands-Cham’Aventure offers a tree park and zipline adventure. The owners and designers of the park have developed an ingenious device that permits participants to remain tethered to the cable at all times, further ensuring the health and safety of users, without sacrificing the thrill and skill to navigate the course. Around town, there are numerous restaurants from Indian takeaway to upscale dining and everything in between. My experience in the area was limited to large group dinners with my husband’s company, so I didn’t get to explore as much as I might have otherwise. That being said, we had very nice meals at La

Télécabine, Le Calèche and Le Cap Horn. Of our dining options, Le Calèche offered the most traditional fare and decor. Surrounded by relics from the 1924 Winter Games, we enjoyed fondue as well as meat cooked on a hot stone tableside and a Reblochon tart, produced from the local cheese. This was the only restaurant where I had the opportunity to taste local wines. If you are not quite ready to head back to your hotel after dinner, several wine bars are sprinkled around town. More retail establishment than bar, Chachacha greets visitors at one end of town and has a few tables outside for your tasting pleasure. However, much more lively and late night is Les Caves du Pèle, run by the same owners of Le Cap Horn and La Calèche. For a sweet break any time of day, stop by one of the many cafes for coffee and a pastry or pick up delicious macarons at Pâtisserie Maison Richard or Côté Macarons. 

Drink Wisely & Well ÂŠ 2015 by Tracy Ellen Kamens

Alpine Wines & Spirits A

lthough the area is not a major wine destination, there are several wines and spirits that are unique to the area. Specifically, the region is home to the Vin de Savoie appellation. If you have not heard of Savoie wines, you are not alone. This relatively tiny region has not established a high level of recognition for its wines either within the confines of its borders or beyond. However, it does produce a few whites and reds worth enjoying with regional cuisine. These light-bodied wines primarily center on locally-grown white grapes, namely Jacquère, Roussanne or Altesse. The few reds are varietallylabeled as Gamay or Mondeuse. In addition to bearing the name Vin de Savoie on the label, wine produced in one of the designated villages may also display that information alongside it. Another alcoholic product unique to the area is Génépi (alternately written génépy or genepì). This traditional herbal liqueur is found in several alpine regions of Europe, namely France, Switzerland and Italy, but only those produced in Val d’Aosta and Piemonte have a protected appellation. Products from other areas simply fall into a protected category of spirit. The name "genepí" is thought to have come from the name of the actual botanicals used to flavor the spirit, which are of the same family as those used in absinthe. However, Génépi differs from absinthe in that, as a liqueur, Génépi contains sugar, albeit less sweet than many other digestifs. The better quality spirits are clear, while touristy versions are often artificially colored. Home to producer Maison Dolin, which was founded in Chamonix in 1815, the region is also known for vermouth and other aromatized wines. 

Chamonix Travel Resources Accro Park des Gaillands-Cham'Aventure Site du Lac des Gaillands For parapenting, contact: Compagnie du Guides anneso@chamonix-guides.com Or, try Les Ailes du Mont Blanc directly and ask for Jean Charles, an ex French stunt champion. Chachacha Wine & Spirits 134 av. Ravanel le Rouge Côté Macarons 136 Rue Joseph Vallot No website La Calèche Savoyard Regional Cuisine 18 Rue du Docteur Paccard La Télécabine Gastropub 27 Rue de la Tous Le Cap Horn Les Caves du Pèle 74 Rue Moulins Pâtisserie Maison Richard 10 Rue du Dr Paccard

y first experience with Alsace occurred relatively early in my introduction to wine. My husband and I were celebrating our wedding anniversary at a boutique hotel in New Brunswick, Canada, taking advantage of the favorable exchange rate in October 2002. Each night, we dined at the Kingsbrae Arms, table d’hôte style, with multi-course menus of seasonal bounty and local fare. We also indulged in wonderful wines, taking cues from our fellow diners, who were much more wine savvy than we were at the time. Accordingly, one evening we enjoyed a Preiss-Zimmer Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Brand 1998.

Drink Wisely & Well ÂŠ 2015 by Tracy Ellen Kamens

Sadly, we forgot all about our love affair with Alsace, other than the random bottles of Alsatian Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Blanc we would buy among our mixed case orders from our local retailers. But, more recently, Alsace has been top of mind as I dived deeper into the Alsatian waters, first with a Master Class led by Thierry Fritsch, head enologist for the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins d’Alsace in Fall 2014 and then with an Alsatian-themed Wine Media Guild lunch. At Fritsch’s seminar, we had the opportunity to blind taste a number of Grand Cru Rieslings from different soil types. Tasting wine produced on granite, sandstone, volcanic soil and marl-limestone underscored the importance of Grand Cru sites and their terroir, reinforcing the impact of terroir on the resulting wine. It also shined a spotlight on the quality of these wines. So, when we were headed to France this summer and realized that we would be only four hours’ drive from Colmar, we jumped at the chance to really explore the region and get to know these wines and their makers more intimately. With three intense days, we immersed ourselves with tours of the vineyards, visits to villages and tastings at six wineries, thereby intensifying our knowledge and passion for these wines. Along the way, we discovered an intriguing wine region, with a war-torn history and wounded pride, eager to make its mark in the world of wine. ----------

many ways, the wines of Alsace are straightforward – grape names are proudly displayed on wine labels, complicated blends are the exception rather than the rule and most wines are expressive with limited to no use of oak. Climatically, the region sits between the Vosges Mountains and Germany’s Black Forest. The Vosges Mountains, which are among the oldest mountains on earth, form the western border and stop both bad weather and bad news, coming in from Paris. As a result, the region is extremely sunny, with limited rainfall. Due to the favorable climate and low precipitation,

organic and biodynamic viticulture are not only possible, but are becoming more wide spread. In fact, Alsace was the first region in France to adopt organic viticulture. Post-harvest, the traditional approach to winemaking centers on foudres, which are large, tartrate-crusted vessels, used to ferment and age wine, without oak influence. In addition to forming a barrier between the oak and the wine, the tartrate build-up also helps to start and stop fermentation. Today, there is some adoption of new, small oak barrels, particularly for aging Pinot Noir, but most wineries employ either foudres or stainless steel in their overall production, keeping the wines clean and precise. Yet, despite this apparent simplicity, the region is actually quite complex, beginning with its history. Although Alsace is now firmly entrenched within France, along the country’s northeastern border, it was tossed back and forth between France and Germany for centuries. Consequently, in many ways, the region was influenced more by its history than its geography. Alsace’s German roots initially date to the Treaty of Mersen in 870, when the region was united with the German territories of the Carolingians and generally flourished, with the rise of Strasbourg, Colmar and other cities. Then, during the Wars of Religion and the Thirty Years’ War, Alsace became embroiled in the conflict between Catholics and Protestants, eventually appealing to France for help. Under French control, the Alsatians continued to thrive while retaining much of their German culture, particularly their language. But, it was during the Franco-German War in 1870-71 that Alsace returned to Germany, ping-ponging back to France after World War I before being annexed once again to Germany in the 1940s for the remainder of World War II.

Destination Colmar V

illage hopping (that’s hopping, not shopping!), is part of the fun of Alsace and there are many from which to choose. Among the larger options are the two departmental capitals — Alsace is divided into two departments – the Lower Rhine (Bas Rhin) and the Upper Rhine (Haut Rhin), so named due to elevation, not geography. The northerly Strasbourg is the capital of the Bas Rhin; the Haut Rhin’s capital is Colmar. This second city provides a wonderful place to rest one’s head after a busy day touring the vineyards due to its less industrial atmosphere, lighter traffic and proximity to the highway. Throughout the city, the half-timbered houses and buildings make you feel like you’ve just stepped into a fairy tale as you explore its varied neighborhoods. It is also home to several museums, including the Musée d’Unterlinden and Musée Bartholdi, the latter of which documents the work of Auguste Bartholdi, sculptor of the Statue of Liberty. Our home away from home was the Maison des Têtes (House of Heads), well placed within the historic center of the city. The name of this 17th century building stems from the 106 facial sculptures that adorn its exterior.

Whether venturing to eat at your typical tourist spots or dine with one of the many Michelin-starred toques (or something in between), there are several regional specialties that will grace the menus. Perhaps the most famous of these is the tarte flambé (also known as Flammekueche), which is similar to a thin-crust pizza, but with crème fraiche, caramelized onions and fromage blanc atop the dough. Belying the region’s German heritage, meat dishes such as pot au feu, baeckeoffe (a stew of onions, mutton, beef and pork, which have been marinated in white wine) and fleischnacka (cooked meat wrapped in a pastry dough, jelly-roll style), served alongside with spatzle (egg noodles). If you are on the go, pick up a bretzel, which as far as I can tell, is identical to the soft pretzels we know and love in New York without the street vendor stench! If you prefer to stay in an even smaller town, the villages of Riquewihr, Ribeauvillé, Turckheim and Eguisheim are all recommended, but with fewer options available for accommodations and dining than Colmar. 

Drink Wisely & Well ÂŠ 2015 by Tracy Ellen Kamens

A Little Night Music

hat’s better than a free concert? How about dozens of free concerts scattered throughout a single city? Held on June 21, the longest day of the year (in the northern hemisphere), the Fête de la Musique was first established in France in 1982 by then French Minister of Culture, Jack Lang. Since that time, the festival has become an international celebration with over 450 cities in over 120 countries participating in this annual event. To be a part of the official event, all concerts must be free to the public, and all performers must donate their time. We first experienced this joyous occasion in Poitiers, when we arrived in town and discovered musical band after musical band on one street corner after another; everyone was out and about and enjoying the fun. We didn’t realize that the festivities extended beyond Poitiers until we arrived in Colmar on June 21 of this year, music blaring. Now we know, if your travel plans include the Summer Solstice, expect music! 

While the shuffle back and forth would be enough to cause even the most, well-adapted citizenry an identity crisis, the pain of living through the atrocities of war has taken its toll. Even decades later, it is hard for the older generation to talk about their experiences during that period. Additionally, although viticulture continued to be practiced in the region throughout the centuries, the identity of the wines was significantly shaped as a result of countryhood. Specifically, during the German occupation, Alsatian wines were relegated to second class status wherein the wines were forbidden to be bottled and were instead only permitted in barrel and allocated for consumption by the German military. To add insult to injury, Alsace missed a critical opportunity in gaining world recognition because it was part of Germany when French wines rose to prominence in the early 1900s. Accordingly, most of Alsace restarted in the 1950s when it returned to French rule and some Alsatians feel that they have been playing catch up ever since, feeling a bit like the red-headed step child of French wines as a consequence of this history. Less damning, but equally important, historical vestiges still remain. In addition to the use of the Alsatian dialect that is more German than French, German grapes varieties – namely Riesling and Gewürztraminer – are among the most planted and found nowhere else in France. Yet, pride lingers, too. Alsatians are quick to point out that the first Pope from France was born in Eguisheim. And, while their ancestry may not be fully French, there are numerous people who are proud that their families have been in the wine industry for generations. Aside from its historical complications, other elements of Alsace’s diversity are also evident. As noted, during the Master Class, we were introduced to the various soil types of the region. In all, there are 13 distinct soil types in the region that can be parsed into five general categories: granite, marl-limestone, marllimestone-sandstone, sandstone-clay and volcanic. This diversity is at least partly responsible for the proliferation of grape types that are planted in the region. This patchwork extends to the vineyards themselves, much like Burgundy and with a similar system of designating higher quality tracts of land — those that are considered to produce the best grapes — as Grand Cru. Now, the region is looking toward adding a Premier Cru level, but there is a reluctance to declassify vineyards. As Séverine Schlumber, of Domaines Schlumberger, notes, “[Alsace is] Burgundy’s little sister, but much younger.” Like Burgundy, Alsace’s Grand Cru production is limited to only 4% of its total production. As of 2012, the Grand Cru designation is now an official part of the appellation, with a total of 51 vineyards bearing this status. With three exceptions (another set of complexities), all Grand Cru wines must be produced from single variety Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris or Muscat.

The set of producers is also quite diverse with a range of very small growers to large corporations represented. Co-ops continue to play an important role and are especially active in the northern part of the region. Finally, there is considerable diversity of wine styles with nearly all styles represented from dry to sweet and still to sparkling. Looking ahead, Alsace is committed to improving its image and prestige. Among those activities, while 90% of production is presently given over to white grapes, Pinot Noir is on the rise and currently accounts for about 10% of plantings all on its own. Further, the most recent initiative is a shift in labeling to permit consumers to more easily distinguish among sweet and dry wines. As of 2015, all dry wines must be labeled accordingly, based upon the wine’s residual sugar level, in consideration with its acidity levels. Wines with 9 g/l of residual sugar, with sufficient acidity, will be the maximum level permitted for labeling a wine as dry. 

Maison des Têtes Hotel and restaurant in an historic building. 19 Rue des Têtes, 68000 Colmar

Jy’s Jean-Yves Schillinger’s Michelin-starred restaurant. 17 Rue de la Poissonnerie, 68000 Colmar

Wistub de la Petite Venise Traditional style casual restaurant in the heart of the Petite Venise quarter. 4 Rue de la Poissonnerie, 68000 Colmar

Le Raisin D’or Quaint restaurant specializing in regional dishes. 38 Rue Principale, Heiligenstein, France

La Taverne du Vigneron A family-owned and operated restaurant frequented by Séverine Schlumberger 7 Place Saint Leger 68500 Guebwiller No website

Les Comfitures des Christine Ferber Local producer of (now world-famous) jams and patisserie. 18, rue des Trois Epis, 68230 Niedermorschwihr

ince 2001, Séverine Schulumberger has run Domaines Schlumberg, the largest domaine in Alsace. A member of the seventh generation, she joined her uncle in the family business upon her father’s retirement. But, despite her lofty role, Séverine is very down to earth. No really. When I first met Séverine, she was quick to point out that, “We are farmers.” And, as if to prove her point, we piled into a Land Rover and headed out into the vineyards. Once amidst the vines, standing atop a steep slope, she shared the story of her family’s rise in the wine industry. The Schlumberger family was originally born in Germany and came to Alsace in 1510. However, as Protestants, they weren’t permitted to reside within Colmar, so instead settled in the religion-free town of Mulhouse, just to the south. By the 18 th century, the area was known for its textile industry and her ancestor Nicholas Schlumberger, who had trained in the UK, understood the harbingers of the industrial revolution. He used his expertise to start a company in 1810 in Gubwiller building sewing machines. Coincident with his corporate launch, he purchased 20 hectares of vineyard land, selling the wine locally. Over time, the initial purchase was doubled, eventually expanding to 140 hectares in total, making Domaines Schlumberger one of the largest landholders in the region. Not only large, but blessed; 50% of its holdings are Grand Cru vineyards. And, you will note that the name is plural because there are actually two domaines – the forest and the vineyard. In addition to being good stewards of the land, they have opted to retain the forest on the estate in order to retain the climate. It was Séverine’s father who rebuilt the company after Alsace’s

repatriation with France. Although they, like many others, farmed chemically in the beginning, by the 1970s, they switched to organic viticulture, along with many others in the region. The company also practices some biodynamics, especially in the Grand Cru vineyards. However, they are too large of an estate to pursue certification. Among Schlumberger’s Grand Cru vineyards is Kitterlé, which is held in very high regard. It is extremely steep and boasts three different sun exposures – Southwest, South and Southeast The vines have to struggle in the sandy soil, but they eventually become more resistant and push their roots down far into the earth. Interestingly, they have pure sand on their estate, which is very rare. As a result, they must plant horizontally to avoid erosion on the sandy slope. Adjacent to Kitterlé is Kessler Grand Cru, also comprised of sandstone, of which Schlumberger owns 22 hectares of the 29 hectare parcel. Grand Cru Saering, meaning “sea ring,” makes up another important part of their portfolio, from which they use 40% of their holdings of this vineyard as Grand Cru. According to Séverine, the most prized plots on Saering are those at the highest elevation and thus not previously under water when the area was covered by the sea millions of years ago. The remainder of their grapes are used to produce non-Grand Cru wine. Finally, there is Spiegel Grand Cru, which translates as mirror due to the significant amount of heat and sun that the land receives, which is then reflected back onto the grapes. In their ongoing commitment to quality, Schlumberger waits 15 years before using newly planted vines as Grand Cru wine. Moreover, they maintain exacting standards from vintage to vintage. In this regard, each year, they blind taste the Grand Cru

wines and will declassify them if they don’t meet their strict quality standards. Plus, a minimum of 30% of their Grand Cru grape harvest actually goes into their entry level wines. Although the family and its estate are rich in history, the winery itself is one year old, having been recently renovated with state-ofthe-art equipment such as pneumatic presses and the capacity to hold two and half harvests. In an additional nod to quality production, at Schlumberger, after fermentation is complete, the wines rest on the fine lees until June. They are then held for one to one and half years before bottling. While clearly committed to her family’s estate, Séverine recognizes the importance of creating a culture of excellence to best promote the region. Accordingly, she is working on creating an association of top producers with a focus on Riesling as a way to promote the region as a whole, further raising the level of awareness and protecting the identity of the place. Overall, she hopes to create “reflex of consumption of Alsace wines,” among consumers.

During our visit, we spoke at length about Pinot Gris. Specifically, the Pinot Gris must be harvested in multiple passes through the vineyard in order to maintain dryness. If they wait until the crop is fully ripe, they will have achieved too much sugar in the grapes. Further, they are careful to craft drier styles of Pinot Gris at the Grand Cru level to ensure that they are more food-friendly in nature. And, given their richness, Séverine suggested that Pinot Gris Grand Cru wines were great for winter. Finally, as we set out to taste through her wines, she was keen to acknowledge that “it’s not a product, it’s wine.” The industrial revolution may have helped to fund her family’s entry into wine, but at heart, they are still farmers! 

TASTING NOTES

Pinot Blanc Les Princes Abbes 2013 Floral, pear and almond aromas greet the nose, and are repeated on the rich and round palate, along with minerality and long length. Riesling Grand Cru Saering 2011 The Saeing Grand Cru is usually the earliest Grand Cru release due to the wine’s ability to show well young. This wine offers a richness and complexity with slight petrol, floral, mineral and lime aromas and flavors and extremely long length. Riesling Grand Cru Kitterlé 2010 Unlike Saering, Kitterlé is generally better with 8 years of age on it, but despite its tightness and restraint, this was still a lovely wine. Floral, petrol and beeswax notes pervade the nose. Pinot Gris Grand Cru Spiegel 2011 This gorgeous wine offered up honey, tangerine and spice, with beautiful freshness and a rich texture. Pinot Gris Grand Cru Kitterlé 2008 While similar to the Grand Cru Spiegel, this wine was slightly heavier on the palate and displayed some petrol character, likely due to its age and development. Gewürztraminer Les Princes Abbes 2012 A lovely example of good quality Gewürztraminer with freshness, pronounced floral aromas and lots of spice. It was beautifully complex with good acidity. Gewürztraminer Cuvée Christine Vendanges Tardives 2011 This late harvest wine displayed floral and perfume notes on the nose, with medium sweetness on the palate, it was still fresh and bright, with medium+ body, and spice notes that lingered in the long finish.

Drink Wisely & Well ÂŠ 2015 by Tracy Ellen Kamens

Wolfberger

ot surprising given the company name, Wolfberger’s origins are German, but they proudly declare themselves 100% Alsace. Although the company was initially established in Eguisheim in 1902, the brand itself was not created until 1976 to celebrate its new Crémant product. Fittingly, today Wolfberger includes the wines not only of Wolfberger and Willm, but in 2012, they restored the Lucien Albrecht brand, one of the creators of Crémant d’Alsace appellation in 1976. The appellation presently accounts for 25% of all Alsace wine production. Maison Lucien Albrecht began in 1698 when Balthazar Albrecht settled in Orschwilr to grow grapes. From there, eight generations of winemakers continued Balthazar’s legacy. Eventually, the winery went out of business, but now Wolfberger has stepped in to carry on the lineage of this historic producer. Given Wolfberger’s devotion to Crémant, the company’s production is nearly split between still and sparkling wines with a small percentage given over to the production of Eaux-de-Vie d’Alsace. As a co-operative, there are 450 winegrowers that work for Wolfberger. But, despite its size, 80% of the vines are harvested by hand, especially for the production of its Crémant and Grand Cru wines. Among the land under the company’s jurisdiction, it owns vineyards from Kitschberg to Rangen, inclusive of plots within 15 of the 51 Grand Cru sites.

During my visit to the winery, I had the pleasure of tasting wines from Grand Cru Rangen, Grand Cru Pfingstberg, Grand Cru Eichberg and Grand Cru Spiegel. The extremely steep slope of Grand Cru Rangen is known for its volcanic soils that retain the heat of the day, helping to ripen the grapes. Alternately, Grand Cru Pfingstberg has soils comprised of sandstone and limestone and is associated with producing wines with distinct floral aromas. Grand Cru Eichberg has similar soils to those of Pfingstberg, but is attributed with wines of intense fruit and richness. Grand Cru Spiegel is primarily made up of sandy soils and is thought to be particularly well suited to Gewürztraminer. 

TASTING NOTES

Lucien Albrecht Brut NV Crémant d’Alsace Aged on the lees for 15 months, this sparkling wine is produced from Pinot Blanc supplemented by Chardonnay. It is very clean, fresh and elegant with lovely yeasty aromas. Wolfberger Rosé Brut NV Crémant d’Alsace This sparkler offers up herbal and strawberry aromas and flavors, with a fresh palate and long length.

floral and peach on the nose. Its dry palate shows ripe fruit with lime, lemon, peach and floral flavors. Wolfberger Riesling Grand Cru Eichberg 2013 This wine showed some development on the nose with its notes of petrol and minerality. On the palate, it had high acidity with lime, steel and petrol. Lucien Albrecht Pinot Gris Grand Cru Pfingstberg 2012 This wine is slightly off-dry on the palate, with a lovely oily texture on the rich and complex palate with notes of honey and pear that persist throughout the long length. Wolfberger Pinot Gris Grand Cru Rangen 2011 Aromas of smoke and pear pervade the nose, while the medium sweet palate is off-set with high acidity, medium+ body and explodes with flavors of honey, quince and tropical and dried fruit. Lucien Albrecht Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Spiegel 2012 This medium sweet wine displays lots of ripe fruit with aromas and flavors of spice, honey, tropical fruit and dried fruit with a well-balanced palate and long length.

Lucien Albrecht Pinot Blanc Cuvée Balthazar 2014 Considered to be the quintessential wine to pair with tarte flambé, this light-bodied wine displays pear and mineral notes on the dry and clean palate, culminating with long length. Wolfberger Riesling Signature 2014 From a great vintage for Riesling, this wine provides notes of

Vignobles des 2 lunes ike many of their peers, sisters Amélie and Cécile Buecher are the seventh generation of their family to pursue winemaking in the region, but they are uniquely the first female generation of their family to do so.

They also earned Demeter certification for the cellar as well, a laudable feat given that, in France, less than 50 wineries are certified in both the vineyard and the cellar. True to this philosophy, they only add sulfites at the time of bottling and keep their wine for two years in bottle before selling.

In preparation, Amélie studied viticulture and winemaking, while Cécile pursued a degree in business, creating a natural designation of duties for each woman. Both completed their Master’s degrees in Burgundy and Amélie included an internship in New Zealand as well as one with Zind-Humbrecht to round out her studies.

Currently, the family owns 14 hectares, sprinkled throughout six different villages, all of which are manually farmed. Their plots, which consist of three different soil types, are limited to hillside plots. Amélie spends considerable time and effort in the vineyards believing that, “Selection happens in the vineyard, not on the sorting table.”

With this training behind them, these two moons are poised to lead the family enterprise, picking up where their parents left off. Specifically, in 1997, their grandfather was diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease, which the family attributed to the use of agro-chemicals in the vineyard. Their parents, who had befriended a homeopathic doctor when the girls were little, soon turned to the organic process to save their soil and protect their family’s health.

But, she doesn’t stop there. As she so succinctly put it, “It takes nine months to make a baby, but it takes twelve months to make a great wine.” 

Over time, organic practices were supplemented with biodynamics and, by 2006, the family had received Demeter certification. As a result of their viticultural practices, they have been able to revive a nearly extinct variety of tulip, which is now slowly returning to the vineyard.

TASTING NOTES

Crémant Rosé Poussière Détoiles2012 This lovely rose-hued sparkler, aptly named star dust, has a creamy mousse, with lots of freshness and berry aromas and flavors. Muscat Cémélie 2011 A mash of up Cécile and Amélie, this wine is a blend of Muscat d’Alsace and Muscat Ottonel and offers up a beautiful nose with ripe fruit, exotic spice and floral aromas, culminating in long length. Riesling Cécile 2009 Named in honor of Cécile‘s birth, this wine was first produced in 1990. Rich and complex with honey aromas, the angular palate provides concentrated fruit with medium+ acidity, apple, mineral and long length. Pinot Gris Grand Cru Hatschbourg 2009 Comprised of clay, limestone and loess, this vineyard is at 400 m in elevation. The wine has a restrained nose, but an explosive palate with off-dry sweetness, notes of honey and distinctive minerality. There is an overall richness and complexity as well as long length. Gewürztraminer Mer du Nectar Vendanges Tardives 2012 Despite being a late harvest wine with its medium sweetness and full body, this wine is extremely well balanced and finishes quite cleanly. Honey, spice, licorice and tropical fruit aromas and flavors abound. Liqueur de Gewürztraminer Lune Rousse Named for the pink moon, this 21% abv brandy is produced from Gewürztraminer grapes. It has a very interesting nose and palate with caramel, nuts, and fruit, finishing with long length.

Domaine Pfister: nother female-led wine producer is Domaine Pfister, headed by Melanie Pfister, the 8th generation of her family to take up the helm of the business. But, in spite of being born into a winemaking family, becoming a winemaker was not a forgone conclusion. Both she and her sisters were encouraged to consider careers in other fields. Melanie was the only one of them who chose to join the family business. After completing formal studies in both Bordeaux and Burgundy, Melanie also practiced in each region previously. Not surprisingly, she became quite adept at Pinot Noir due to her time in Burgundy, which she used to her advantage upon returning home. We tasted her two Pinot Noirs during our visit and were extremely impressed with the quality and complexity of these wines. Melanie is well skilled in making Crémant d’Alsace, which accounts for 15% of Domaine Pfister’s production. Her sparklers spend considerable time on the lees, with 35 months of aging in total and, as a result, as fresh and elegant with fine bubbles and finesse. Moreover, although sparkling rose has become quite fashionable these days, Melanie was actually ahead of the curve, adding it to the family portfolio in 2008. Similarly, she has been forward-thinking in her decision to include the words vin sec (dry wine) on her back label since 2008. Located in the Bas Rhin, Domaine Pfister is situated in Dahlenheim, due west of Strasbourg. This area of the region is less vaunted due to the preponderance of polyculture and big co-ops, compared with the Haut-Rhin, but is still capable of producing high quality wine as our visit can attest. Their vineyards sit on limestone soils with some rocks and clay and include several plots within the Grand Cru Engelberg, which has been a wellregarded vineyard since 884. 

TASTING NOTES

Pinot Noir Rhan 2011 Produced from a cool site with a high altitude and lots of limestone, the wine is aged in previously-used (in Burgundy) barrels for 14 months. Spicy, peppery and very pretty, it is fresh with well integrated oak and soft tannins that emphasize the purity of the fruit and live up to the “Rhan” designation, meaning elegant or svelte. Muscat Les Trois Demoiselles 2014 Named for Melanie and her sisters, this wine has an intense and exotic nose, but is more delicate on the palate, with fresh fruit and a light note of anise. Riesling Grand Cru Engelberg 2011 This wine displays some development with petrol, mineral and citrus aromas. One the palate it is round and dense, with overt mineral notes. Melanie suggests that it will be at its best from 5 to 10 years after the vintage. Cuvée 8 2013 Intended to be a “wine of the vintage,” the composition of this blend (Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer in 2013) changes annually. With floral and pear aromas, this wine is very textural and heavy, with just a hint of sweetness, along with mineral, pear and spice on the palate. Pinot Gris Tradition 2013 The term Tradition is not a regulated one, but may appear on the label to denote an historical style. This dry wine offers good fruit with pear and spice flavors and full body. Gewürztraminer Silverberg Vendanges Tardives 2007 Only produced in better vintages, this late harvest wine shows anise, candied lemon and honey aromas, with high acidity balancing the palate’s sweetness, it finishes freshly and cleanly. We also loved the Riesling Silverberg Sélection de Grains Nobles 2007, pr oduced about only once per decade!

As noted, Melanie Pfister is a bit of a trailblazer and leader, so it should be no surprise that she is presently the head of diVINes d’Alsace, an association of women in the Alsace wine industry. The 70-member group was established in 2011 with a goal of creating a network in the region for these female colleagues. The organization is open to women in all spheres of the industry – independent producers, négociants and co-operatives – as well as all roles, inclusive of winemakers, vineyard managers, enologists, sommeliers and sales staff. Part of a wider, national association – there are circles of women in wine in Burgundy, Provence, Rhône, Champagne and the Southwest – the women meet every six weeks and usually focus on a specific topic of interest. Recent meetings have included presentations on minerality and on geology. In addition to its educational mission, the group also functions to promote brand Alsace both locally and internationally. Of course, it has also raised awareness about women in the industry.

Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss

Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss, we were greeted by Marcâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s son, Antoine. While the Kreydenweiss family has a long tenure associated with Alsatian viticulture, in 1984, Marc made the decision to truly focus on terroir. Today, the estate is comprised of 13 hectares, primarily centered in Andlau, which is known for its pink sandstone soils. Among its holdings, the Kreydenweiss have plots within three Grand Cru vineyards: Weibelsberg, Moenchberg and Kastelberg. Regardless of the designation, all of their vineyards are farmed biodynamically. Once the grapes have been harvested, fermentation and aging is limited to the use of traditional foudres and while their wines are not organically produced as a whole, they produce a wine without sulfites, in good vintages. The winery changes the label design annually, employing a different artist for each harvest. Consequently, their labels are quite striking. For the most part, during our visit, Antoine let the wines do most of the talking, but did admit to having studied in Burgundy at Pierre Morey. Admittedly, we were a bit tired after our quick jaunt into Strasbourg for lunch, so a relatively quiet tasting was welcome. And, frankly, the wines did speak volumes. ď&#x201A;&#x2122;

TASTING NOTES

Pinot Gris Grand Cru Moenchberg 2011 This wine hails from the concentrated 2011 vintage. The grapes were picked early to ensure a dry style of wine. Aromas of spice, Asian pear and mineral were evident on the nose. The concentrated palate showed a quiet elegance and was very restrained, but with a lot going on; stunning.

La Fontaine aux Enfant 2014 This Pinot Blanc and Pinot d’Auxerrois blend was pronounced with mineral, chalk, white pepper and white tree fruit aromas and flavors. Fresh and elegant with long length.

Riesling Grand Cru Kastelberg 2009 We tasted four vintages of this wine (2013, 1009, 2005 and 1994) and this was my favorite of them all. With aromas of petrol, spice and honey, the palate was dry, but rich and weighty with petrol, spice, honey and exotic notes. It was still fresh, with long length.

Kritt Pinot Blanc 2014 This wine is produced in two versions—one with and one without sulfites. The wine was light with floral and pear notes, fresh acidity, minerality and long length. The sulfite-free version was a slightly more expressive, with less fruit and more minerality.

Riesling Clos du Val d’Eleon 2014 Produced from vines planted on blue slate soils, this wine had a pronounced nose of pear, peach and mineral aromas. It was dry with fresh fruit, very mineral in the mid-palate, culminating in long length. It usually can develop and age for up to 15 years. Riesling Grand Cru Wiebelsberg 2012 Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss owns only 2 hectares of this 12 hectare vineyard, known for its sandy soils. The wine is aged for two years on the fine lees in foudres. It offered aromas of citrus, lime, mineral and honey, which were joined by smoke on the complex and exquisite palate. Long length.

Riesling Grand Cru Kastelberg 1994 At a close second, this wine was showing beautiful development, yet was still quite youthful, balanced and complex with dried fruit, petrol, honey, wet stone and chalk.

BERNHARD RIEBEL

ur initial arrival at Bernhard Riebel was somewhat inauspicious; the GPS had gotten us a bit lost and we drove around the tiny village of Châtenois in circles before finally pulling into the family driveway. But, once there, we had the pleasure of meeting Pierre Bernhard’s mother, who spoke French and German, but little to no English, yet graciously welcomed us to her home. After a brief wait, during which we freshened up from our journey, Pierre appeared on the scene and gave us the full story and tour. We started first with a visit to the vineyards on the top of the Weingarten slope, a hillside which previously belonged to the Archbishop of Strasbourg. In total, Pierre owns 23 hectares, most of which are comprised of different types of granite soils (red, white and some red stone and clay) and all of which are Certified Organic. In addition to Weingarten, his other vineyard properties include Hahnenberg, a 45 degree slope, which is mostly planted to Riesling, as well as Meisenberg and Ritterberg in Scherwiller, where the Reibel family originated. It was, in fact, his mother’s family – the Riebels – who had been in the wine industry for many generations. However, when Pierre’s grandfather died, his grandmother sold her grapes to the

co-op. In 1982, his parents started to produce their own wine again – in the garage. After college, Pierre initially went off to Paris to pursue a career in the automotive parts business. However, as his parents began to age, it was clear that one of the sons needed to take over the family business and it was equally clear that Pierre and not his brother was the more interested of the two. So, he returned to Châtenois 15 years ago and never looked back. No longer confined to the garage, Pierre maintains a full-scale winery a short drive from the house. However, the garage is still filled with tractors and other farming equipment. With a total of 22 wines in Pierre’s range, we declined to taste them all, lest we should fall asleep at dinner that night (or miss our reservation altogether). Instead, we primarily focused on terroir, tasting a variety of Rieslings from different vineyard plots. 

TASTING NOTES

Pinot Noir 2014 Interestingly, the Pinot Noir grapes for this wine are harvested almost as late as those picked for his late harvest wines. With intense red cherry aromas, this wine is fresh and vibrant with black cherry fruit.

Muscat Hahnenberg 2013 A blend of Muscat d’Alsace and Muscat Ottonel, this wine offers up fresh flowers and pronounced grape aromas. The palate is dry, with mouth-watering acidity that lingers throughout the long length. Riesling Cuvée Coup de Foudre 2014 Perhaps I was influenced by the name, (Coup de Foudre translates as “love at first sight), but what’s not to love? This wine is slightly offdry with high acidity, lime, ripe peach and citrus, along with a a hint of spice in the finish. Riesling Coteaux du Haut-Keonigsbourg 2013 Produced from 60-year-old vines, this wine displayed mineral, chalk and citrus aromas and flavors, with a weighty mid-palate. Riesling Weingarten 2012 This grapes for this wine hail from a warmer, less windy lieux dit comprised of red granite soils. The wine was showing some development with a whiff of petrol on the nose. It has extremely high acidity, with citrus, mineral and floral notes on the dry and angular palate. Riesling Rittersberg 2012 Rittersberg is a cooler site due to its white granite soils. The wine was a bit closed, with some minerality on the nose, which became more pronounced on the palate. It was fresh, but softer in acidity than the Weingarten with just a hint of perceptible residual sugar. Riesling Rittersberg 2005 At ten year’s of age, this wine was beginning to show some development with honey, anise and petrol aromas. On the palate, it was weighty and textural, with citrus, honey, mineral and spice flavors and a clean finish. Pinot Gris Hahnenberg 2014 This wine was slightly off-dry, with ripe pear fruit, spice and a nice oily texture typical of the variety. It was clean and fresh with very long length.