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the futurist issue
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NO 354 THE EARTHWISE ISSUE FALL FALL 2018 JADEN SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY MICHAEL SCHWARTZ
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i-DEAS, FASHION, MUSIC, PEOPLE
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the futurist issue
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ZAKIA TOURAY, GLOBAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
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LOUISVUITTON.COM
LOUIS VUITTON
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ALEXANDER WANG SS19: FUTURISTIC AMERICANA, AXL ROSE BANDANA’S, MULAN AND CHILDISH GAMBINO New York designer Alexander Wang appropriates Americana culture, in his new Spring Summer 2019 show - Collection 1. MODELS WEAR ALL CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES ALEXANDERWANG SS19
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Alexander Wang by Alexander Wang
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ALEXANDER WANG TEXT ZAKIA TOURAY
Simply dubbed ‘Collection 1’, Alexander Wang showed his Spring/Summer 2019 collection at Manhattan’s South Street Seaport’s Pier 17 in New York earlier this year in June, showcasing on a rooftop, in an ice hockey rink-like setting, with floodlights beaming amidst the downtown New York skyline, overlooking the Brooklyn Bridge. Wang’s inspiration stemmed from the story of his parents’ journey to America in 1972 as immigrants, which he had learned after a recent trip to Santa Barbara reuniting his long-divorced parents. The designer’s father attended for the first time, sitting front row he was styled in his son’s designs from head to toe, looking chic in a white bucket hat, t-shirt and pants, all heavily embroidered with the Wang logo; Wang Jr himself wore matching shorts. Also sitting front row were super models Jourdan Dunn, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and rappers A$AP Ferg and Pusha T. Taking an unusual politicised theme of the life of an immigrant in a ‘melting pot’ such as the US, Wang explained backstage “I really started thinking about this collection as a personal story, not only about how I got to New York but how I got to America. I’d asked my parents about their story when they first arrived as immigrants and it was so inspiring and for it to be something that really started the kick-off of the entire collection; rock n roll music, football and motorcycle culture and then taking this idea of Chinoiserie and fabrications and motifs and juxtaposing them to create a new language.” Collection 1 also epitomizes the ‘land of the free and home of the brave’ concept of Americana, somewhat of a Guns N’ Roses meets Disney’s Mulan. It also draws upon a key theme of identity, as stated by Wang “today marks a new beginning, a new identity, and a new day for my brand.”; these were the inspiring words left on seats at the show, bracing the crowd for the electrifying show ahead.
This also to mark the transformation of the Wang brand (hence the rebranding – alexanderwang - as seen on various items in the collection). Clearly following on from the branding logo craze seen this year and undoubtedly more years to come. Walking the show were Wang stars Bella Hadid, Adut Akech, Kaia Gerber and Heejung Park among a particularly Asian dominated model cast, to emphasise the theme of Wang’s heritage and origins as inspiration for the collection. In Wang’s vision of Americana, we see football jerseys with matching face paint, Axl Rose bandanas, ornamental clasped bolo ties, Hawaiian Leis, worn and torn denim vests as seen on Bella Hadid, and excessive silver hardware detailing such as belts, bejewelled surgical masks, chains, cuffs and bags. Not to forget the oversized motorcycle style leather jackets worn as dresses, cinched together with three-layered belts, short biker shorts and of course plaid shirts and skirts. Simultaneously, glimpses of Chinoiserie are caught in looks, from Brocade jackets with traditional Chinese Mandarin collars, to ‘CHINATOWN’ referencing and Chinese flag sew on patches. Models also wore beige Americana inspired desert boots, black and white leather motorcycle gloves with bold red lettering or heavy silver jewellery. We also saw a sneak peek of AW’s collaboration with Adidas Originals where a futuristic flair the classic basketball shoe is innovatively designed with more of a futuristic flair, taking the popular chunky “dad shoe” trend, but diluting the range of colour to more minimal, monochromatic black and white colourways. The striking finale was set to Childish Gambino’s controverisal “This Is America”, which perfectly wrapped up Collection 1 to a T, or in this case Alexander Wang and his take on the amalgam of Americana, classic Chinoiserie, and immigration in a nation where it is otherwise execrated. Definitely a first.
“Today marks a new beginning, a new identity, and a new day for my brand.”
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ALEXANDER WANG
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Wang, as well as on the waists of influencers and celebrities alike, papped at NYFW. The bum-bag has been taken from an absolute fashion faux pas to something the likes of A$AP Rocky, the Kardashian-Jenner’s and Travis Scott wear like a trophy. But why are we suddenly joined at the hip with bum-bags? (literally)
The belt-bag, fanny pack, bum-bag, body bag, waist bag, utility bag or whatever you may call it, one of the most extensive fashion trends of SS19 was once the cliché-ridden effigy of tourists but is officially the “I’m cool now” item of Spring Summer 2019 – bum bags are back, baby. This season they appeared in the collections of Louis Vuitton, Dior, Y-3, A-Cold-Wall*, Chanel, Off-White, A.P.C and Alexander
DEFINING IT AND HOW IT FITS.”
“IT’S EMBRACING STREETWEAR, IT’S
A.P.C spring summer 19
THE BUM-BAG IS THE NEW HIP TREND, LITERALLY. Bum-bags aka fanny packs date back to the 15th century France when they wore a small bag that hung from a belt called a chatelaine, but it wasn’t until the 1980s that Americans got hooked on these trendy strap-ons, becoming a staple piece. For the Fresh Prince of Bel Air lovers, we know that bum-bags were a must-have with almost every outfit. Although just as many people poked fun at fanny packs as wore them; we’ve all seen Rappy McRapperson’s ‘My Fanny Pack’.
A.P.C spring summer 19
It is clear that fashion is like a hamster wheel of sorts – hence the noughties fashion revival occurring in the current fashion climate with cycling shorts, chunky ‘dad’ shoes and the perennial neon trend on the scene once again. Even the savviest, luxury fashion houses are following streetwear frenzies to create pared-back, sartorial, business-ready looks. Designer of Off-White, Virgil Abloh said, “It’s embracing streetwear, it’s defining it and how it fits.” in an interview with Vogue after his SS19 Off-White show, in which we saw holographic waist bags cinching the waist of a pastel yellow blazer jacket and an athleisure inspired neon-yellow, leg-holsterpouch worn by British sprinter Dina Asher-Smith. Who doesn’t love a bit of sport-luxe after all? Virgil’s structured, statement three dimensional cubes and cylinders formed beltbags, cross-body bags and gun-holster style utility bags, in citrus reds, yellows and pure white at Louis Vuitton, focussing on the theme of luxury travel-wear. Quite similar to A.P.C’s printed bum-bag. A neon yellow ‘J’ shaped body bag worn over a cyan blue shirt was more like an extra layer of clothing, reflecting a flat white Helmut Lang body bag was worn strapped around the waist and attached to the thigh like a large removeable pocket years ago. Clearly the cheaper 80s bum-bags made from nylon and polyester have transitioned to more premium materials such as smooth leathers. Chanel’s artificial beach was the setting for softer, more feminine-esque inspired body-bags where the classic Chanel vintage quilted shoulder bag was transformed into mini, front back-packs and shoulder bags worn on both shoulders whilst a clasp holding the bags together in the centre. Leather waist straps and chain shoulder strap details accompanied the body-bags seen in monochrome black and white leather as well as blue denim. Elsewhere, Fendi turned them very much military, functional and formal as supermodels Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid wore belt-bags with various small pouches creating a classy city girl look. Alyx made them laptop-case like and fitted to the chest like a bullet proof vest, also accentuating the adjustable smooth leather, never ending belt-holed straps. Whilst the Dior Saddle bag made a comeback, A-Cold-Wall* opted for a harness style bag with multiple belt fastenings and four bag pouches hanging on the lower body. Here we saw the return of the wet-look black leather or nylon bum-bag trend of the 80s. Whilst we have seen the transcending military, grungy, sports-luxe trends influence the bum-bag, the question is, what does the future hold for the perpetual style of the bum-bag? It looks likely in this designer dazed ‘Gorpcore’ generation, where the unpopular trends are trendy again but in a purposely ironic way, the future of the bum-bag holds one for innovation.
From left to right; Fendi, Chanel, Louis Vuitton spring summer 19 i-D
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JADEN WEARS SHIRT AND TROUSERS PYER MOSS
PHOTOGRAPHY KENNETH CAPPELLO STYLING ALEALI MAY HAIR/MAKEUP ANTHONY MERANTE PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT & TECH TUCKER LEARY
G-Star RAW on a sustainable denim collection in his first designer collaboration.
20 year old sustainable designer Jaden Smith is changing the textile world one product at a time, joining forces with
JADEN SMITH SHARES HIS FUTURE OF FASHION
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