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'-08&3 108&3 #-00. #3"44&3*& words // KATIE GILROY picture // EMMA BRERETON Every cloud has a silver lining. The upside of our sorry situation is that despite the constant reminders of unemployment stats, bickering about NAMA and omnipresent gaping black holes in our lives since all our mates have fled Down Unda where they may not find work but at least they’ll get a tan and possibly meet Harold from Neighbours, we can still afford to eat out. We may not be getting bonuses again this year, or pay rises for the foreseeable future, but we are certainly getting great bargains when it comes to restaurant dining.
Scarcity breeds creativity and creativity is present in abundance at Bloom Brasserie, Baggot Street’s latest culinary addition. Former head chef at Dax, Pól Ó hÉannraich has got edible decadence down to a fine art here, and his cellar-like venue boasting rugged stone walls and almond coloured wooden flooring is the perfect setting to showcase his gastronomic talents. When we visit on a gusty Monday night and descend the stairs at street level, we are greeted by a host of friendly, smiling staff and Pól himself who checks on us often throughout the course of our meal. The long basement room is far from being a cold, hostile environment but exudes warmth and welcome and offers refuge from the brewing storm outside. The humming clatter of chefs at work escapes through a rectangular slot in the wall that separates the kitchen and dining room and provides a buzzy atmosphere despite the unusually quiet evening. While perusing the menu, we are treated to a Bloom Brasserie cocktail of Champagne with a dash of Frangelico hazelnut liqueur – a slightly nuts but delightful combination. From the Early Bird menu (₏25 for three courses, ₏20 for two) we start off with the chicken liver on toast in a pear reduction and the marinated white bean, shallot and sundried tomato salad. Buttery in texture, the gamine chicken livers are like strips of lush velvet on the crunchy bread and the tongue has no choice but to embrace the pear as it is just deliciously sweet. Al dente and with a sheen hinting at magical properties, the white beans are full of garlic and reek of
success. A semi-course of lemon sorbet with basil refreshes our palettes before our mains arrive to immerse them once more in a world of flavour. A modest fish, the sea trout with melted leeks à la buerre blanc is a subtle but pleasant dish. The two pieces of trout, delicately sautÊed and sprawled atop the saucy leeks with their metallic skins facing upward, shimmer in their candlelit surrounds. The accompanied parsleysprinkled potatoes with crisped edges are well-seasoned and tasty. Laid out like a big grin on a mountain of creamy mash is our other dish of chargrilled apple and sage sausage with onion jus; comfort food at its best. Steaming hot, this sausage has spunk and the herb-infused mash is hearty, wholesome and a joy to devour. The Carpaccio of spiced pineapple consisting of a wafer-thin sheet of the tropical fruit with suspicions of cinnamon and other fragrant spices, whole raspberries and a dollop of vanilla ice-cream concentrically positioned is a light but lovely dessert as is the custardy crème brulÊe. Bloom boasts a substantial selection of wines, all available by the carafe and at exceptional value. Our choice – a carafe of light-bodied Chianti Classico with hints of dark fruit was ₏11 providing us with a small glass each. Including a bottle of still water our bill came to ₏64.70. A decadent meal for a song. And therein lies the silver lining. 11 Upper Baggot Street Dublin 4 t: 01 6687170
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