BRAND TOTAL
Winter/Spring 2021
A TOTAL LICENSING GROUP PUBLICATION
LICENSING
Meet TB12: Tom Brady & Alex Guerrero’s Global Wellness Brand Breaking into Licensing with IMG
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CONTENTS 6
Editorial Comment
24 Art & Design Special Supplement
Thoughts from the editor
7 News
Going in-depth in the art licensing world
38 Brand4Rent
From around the globe
Pairing famous artworks and a Russian building
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The V&A
40 The Tempting World of Route 66
Growth and expansion
Take a ride with Tempting Brands
11 The Rugby World Cup
42 Heritage licensing
Vast opportunities for licensing
History creating a bright future
13 The Enticing World of Food & Drink
48 Bela Lugosi
Interesting brand extensions abound
Expanding his very famous legacy
16 Expanding the Peugeot Brand
50 The Winners & Losers of Lockdown
Legacy, innovation and global awareness
What brands need to know before working with influencers
17 Breaking the Law?
Which brands have seen success in the global shutdown?
52 Lifecycle Making fashion transparent and sustainable
18 Cover Story
54 Life & Style
Exploring the world of IMG
Catching up with Jam Brands’ portfolio
20 Licensing - here to last
55 Interview: Bravado
The Point.1888 talks strategy
22 Howard Robinson
56 The Last Page
Sharing his famous selfies
42
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13
David Boyne tells us why every day is exciting
Index of advertisers, shows, and fun facts
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COMMENT TOTAL
BRAND LICENSING
A Total Licensing Group Publication CO-PUBLISHER Francesca Ash francesca@totallicensing.com CO-PUBLISHER Jerry Wooldridge jerry@totallicensing.com EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Rebecca Ash becky@totallicensing.com OFFICE MANAGER Helen Bowerman helen@totallicensing.com JAPAN AGENT Roger Berman, ZenWorks rmb@zenworks.jp CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Trudi Bishop Matthew French HEAD OFFICE Total Licensing Ltd 4 Wadhurst Business Park Faircrouch Lane, Wadhurst, East Sussex, TN5 6PT, UK Tel: +44 (0) 1892 782220 Fax: +44 (0) 1892 782226 www.totallicensing.com
Total Brand Licensing is published quarterly by Total Licensing Ltd in the UK. ©2021 Total Licensing Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means whatsoever without written permission of the publishers and owners. Although persons and companies mentioned herein are believed to be reputable, Total Licensing Ltd nor any of its employees accept any responsibility whatsoever for their activities.l images are reproduced with permission from their owners.
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At the time of going to press, much of the world still finds itself in varying degrees of the grip of COVID-19, with many countries still under national lockdowns. There has been vast uncertainty and trepidation concerning the global economy. We know all this, of course. In fact I have started boring myself with the words ‘virus’, ‘lockdown’, ‘bubble’, ‘social distancing’. Heading out on yet another dog walk, it seems amazing that, one year ago, the world was just getting to grips with the coronavirus and little did we know what lay ahead and how it would affect each and every one of our lives and businesses. However, there is a much to be positive about in the industry. The world may have turned on its head, but many of the important trade shows have adapted and switched to virtual platforms. Meetings still go ahead, albeit on Zoom. Licensing deals and brand extensions continue, showing the resilience of the industry. In this issue of Total Brand Licensing we cover, as always, a diverse and wide selection of the brand business, exemplifying just how wide the world of brand extensions go and how much opportunity is out there. We look at the increasingly sophisticated deals in the food and drink sectors; the world of heritage licensing and how history can secure a bright future in innovative and creative deals; an interview with Bravado; and how famous works of art are teaming with a building in Moscow for a very unique project. Have a look at our feature on Peugeot, who have teamed with a top agency to launch a strong licensing program. Our Art & Design special supplement is not to be missed. Showcasing some of the top artists, designers and agencies working in the world of art licensing today, there are numerous creative deals to be had. We also look in this issue at the brands that have flourished during the pandemic, with e-commerce now much more than a buzzword and, unsurprisingly, the companies that have managed to adapt to total online selling doing well. Supermarkets and grocers, who have stayed open, have reported record sales, and while this has been good news for certain areas of licensing the forecast for many traditional retailers looks stark. There has however been a rise in innovation and even online experiential retail. Delivery companies – Amazon being the absolute winner of lockdown in terms of revenue – have grown exponentially, as well as food delivery brands. And of course, online streaming platforms have seen millions of new customers, with entertainment being limited to viewing from one’s sitting room. The world is undergoing what will in years to come be seen as a seismic shift, and it is up to all of us to adapt, personally and professionally. What the long-term outcome on the industries we work in will be remains to be seen – but the brand licensing industry is often pioneering and influential, and as long as it keeps adapting to fast-paced changes, it will continue to be so. At any rate, if NASA can put a rover, aptly named Perseverance, on Mars, we can get through this!
Wishing you good health and success, Rebecca Ash Editorial Director
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NEWS
MARMITE HOT CROSS BUNS IN M&S Marmite and Marks & Spencer in the UK, have recently launched an exclusive new treat - a Marmite x hot cross bun! The new Easter taste sensations from Unile-
ver’s Marmite and M&S are made with mature Cheddar, Red Leicester and Marmite, encased in a dough which has been enriched with butter and free-range egg to make it extra soft and fluffy. Last spring, the two brands launched their first foodie hybrids - Creamy Marmite Butter and Marmite Cream Cheese, followed more recently by Marmite Cheese Slices and Mini Marmite Cheesy Crumpets for Christmas. In early January, over 40k of the hybrid favourites were snapped up by M&S customers. Unilever is one of the world’s leading suppliers of Food, Home Care, Personal Care and Refreshment products with sales in over 190 countries and reaching 2.5 billion consumers a day. It has 169,000 employees and generated sales of €52.7 billion in 2016. Over half (57%) of the company’s footprint is in developing and emerging markets. Unilever has more than 400 brands found in homes all over the world, including Persil, Dove, Knorr, Domestos, Hellmann’s, Lipton, Wall’s, PG tips, Ben & Jerry’s, Magnum and Lynx.
TRELMAGE ADDS BALL’N BRAND TO ROSTER Marketing and Licensing Agency, TreImage, LLC, continues to grow its brand division with the recent addition of the BALL’N brand to its roster, it was announced recently. “BALL’N is very pleased to announce our new partnership with Trelmage”, stated Rod Jeter, Founder of the BALL’N brand. “Charles and his team have a proven track record as a successful licensing agency. This partnership, being formed by two successful black owned businesses during Black History Month, is very special for myself and BALL’N, as it represents a giant step forward in building our own table.” “The BALL’N brand has a great deal of growth potential” said Charles Singleton, CEO of TreImage. “TreImage is looking forward to orchestrating its expansion through licensed merchandise and other opportunities.” BALL’N is a Luxe Sports lifestyle brand worn by NBA and Streetball legends. It’s a brand that is committed to creating high quality athletic apparel and footwear, for on and off-court
GEORGIA TECH PARTNERS WITH LEGENDS The Georgia Tech Athletic Association (GTAA) and Legends recently announced a first-of-its-kind partnership to combine opportunities across multimedia rights, premium seating, ticketing, annual fundraising, corporate hospitality, data analytics, business intelligence, and e-commerce into one integrated relationship. The partnership will take a customized and holistic approach for identifying new, engaging, and entertaining platforms for corporate partners and Yellow Jacket fans to connect with Georgia Tech athletics and position the Institute for success and growth in the evolving collegiate athletics landscape. Legends is the industry leader in sports experiences, having been founded by two of sports’ most recognizable and prestigious organizations — the New York Yankees and Dallas Cowboys. Georgia Tech fans and corporate partners will benefit from the expertise that Legends brings in designing, planning, and implementing world-class experiences. Legends will introduce a robust TOTAL BRAND LICENSING
technology, data, and analytics platform to support all revenue streams. The new business intelligence platform will provide Georgia Tech athletics with greater insights into Yellow Jacket fans, including a complete view of their relationship to the Institute and athletic department, specific interests, brand affinities, behaviours, and how to most effectively engage. “This past year has introduced new challenges in the collegiate athletics landscape, and we believe the path forward will require a strong vision and modernized approach,” said Mike Behan, Vice President, Collegiate Partnerships, Legends. “In collaboration with the Athletic Department’s innovative leadership team, Legends will engage our entire 360-degree platform – with deep acumen across partnerships, ticketing and premium seating, fundraising, corporate hospitality, retail, and technology – to create a customized, long-term blueprint for growing the business and creating memorable experiences for Yellow Jacket fans.”
wear. The BALL’N brand gets its origin from the streets and its name signifies performing at the highest level possible. Product categories available for licensing include apparel, bags, footwear, accessories, sports gear, sports equipment, game apps and toys.
CHUPA CHUPS FOR H&M H&M has launched a collection of knitwear and accessories for teenagers and young adults within its Asian collection. The Chupa Chups hoodies, vests and cardigans in delicate candy colours are combined with stylish barrets and bags. This co-branded collection is the right mix of tender and cool to see girls comfortably and trendy through this winter. It is available across H&M stores and platforms throughout Asia and online in other continents. PAGE 7
V&A The role of the V&A’s brand licensing programme has been more vital than ever over the last year, and at a time of national lockdown when the doors to museums are shut, bringing art and culture into people’s homes continues to be a key focus. The museum’s award-winning licensing programme offers an almost infinite source of design inspiration. It continues to grow its product offering and global reach with new ranges and activations from licensees and retailers in key territories, enabling existing and new audiences to connect with the V&A collections. In celebration of the new exhibition Bags: Inside Out, the V&A and British luxury lifestyle brand Mulberry have collaborated on a capsule collection of bags, leather goods and scarf, with a signature print inspired by a beautiful 20th century floral furnishing fabric held in the museum’s archive. The opulent chinoiserie-style pattern animates some of Mulberry’s most iconic silhouettes, creating timeless accessories steeped in design history. Fans of the brand’s highly cherished products will be delighted to see styles such as the instantly recognisable Bayswater tote and modern classic small Darley shoulder bag featured among this exclusive and limited edition products. The collection launched at the end of 2020 and was an instant hit, with most items selling out within a month. With people spending an increased amount of times in their homes, wall art is proving to be a popular category. The museum launched a range with FY!, an online marketplace which curates home and living products from a global community of emerging brands, designers and artists. The range of wall art prints is inspired by a sePAGE 8
lection of designs from the V&A archive, including Art Deco fashion, illustrations from Aubrey Beardsley and Eric Ravillious, photography from John French, Japanese woodblock prints and vintage posters. The V&A also launched a new collaboration with Moonpig, offering personalised greetings cards all inspired by the rich archives of the museum. The first range includes cards to celebrate birthdays, anniversaries and other special occasions, with designs inspired from a variety of sources such as Japanese textiles from the V&A’s East Asia collection, a selection of chintz fabrics from the Fashion and Textiles collection, and a design by Nigel Quiney from the 1960s held in the Prints collection. Further designs are set to follow over 2021. Spring sees the launch of
the V&A’s latest range with People Tree, the ethical fashion retailer. The collaboration is now in its fourth successful year and was born out of a mutual appreciation of high-quality materials and a love of print, pattern and colour. The range features 18th and 19th century designs sourced from the museum’s archives. The result is a blend of People Tree’s aesthetic shapes and styles emblazoned with intricate floral and paisley motifs. Despite its challenges 2020 saw some fantastic debut launches for V&A licensing, proving its ongoing appeal across multiple product categories and territories. There is promise of even more to look forward to in 2021. In other V&A news, following the fantastic response to the first series, the V&A is delighted to announce that a second series of the BBC’s Secrets of the Museum will air in the spring. The six part series on BBC Two will reveal more of the museum’s objects and their fascinating stories, as well as some hidden gems not on display. The series will follow the work of the curators, conservators and technicians, whose job is to preserve and care for priceless objects on behalf of us all.
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NEWS
FLEISCHER APPOINTS GLOBAL ICONS FOR BETTY
GUIDE DOGS LICENSED
Fleischer Studios and Global Icons recently announced that Global Icons is the new worldwide exclusive licensing agent for the Studios’ slate of classic characters, including the iconic animated screen star Betty Boop. The move was official on January 1st and comes as Fleischer Studios looks to expand opportunities for its properties in creative new ways. Mark Fleischer, Chairman and CEO of Fleischer Studios said, “We’re excited for the future and all the fantastic ideas in the works with Global Icons. I’m confident they’ll do a superb job representing Betty Boop and our other classic characters. We also look forward to continuing to build our demographics and wonderful relationships in the Betty Boop marketplace in every way possible.” “I have been a longtime fan of Betty Boop and Fleischer Studios,” said Jeff Lotman, CEO of Global Icons. “Betty is truly a cultural Icon that has gained the respect and admiration of millions of fans around the word. We can’t wait to let our global team have the opportunity to grow the program in a very strategic and aggressive way.” Global Licensing will combine its expertise in brand building with their strength and resources around the world to connect Betty with new territories and consumers while creating new opportunities for her core fan base. Last year marked the 90th anniversary celebration for Betty Boop. She is one of the most popular and successfully licensed characters in entertainment history, with licensees in the United States and around the world that produce quality products bearing Betty’s likeness in virtually every category. Betty Boop’s popularity today shines through her prevalence in pop culture. fashion magazines, advertisers, designers, and entertainment producers are constantly including and referencing Betty in their offerings. She is considered a style icon, trendsetter, and a symbol of women’s empowerment. In addition to Betty Boop, other Fleischer Studios classic characters include Betty’s pup Pudgy, Grampy, her pal Bimbo, and Koko the Clown, the first character to ever be animated with the Rotoscope.
Bulldog Licensing have signed to representGuide Dogs – which supports people with sight loss to live actively and independently. Bulldog will be creating a consumer products campaign for one of the UK’s favourite charities. Building on the charity’s reputation for raising puppies to become life changing partners, the licensing programme will target dog owners with high quality pet products, training aids and pet travel accessories. Outside of this core area of dog-specific product lines, the programme will see Bulldog bring to market a wide range of items aimed at dog lovers everywhere ranging from collectable toys and
NEW LICENSEE FOR THE RHS The Royal Horticultural Society in the UK has announced a new licensee for outdoor pots, one of its key gardening categories. The four-year license has been awarded to Woodlodge Products, the UK’s leading supplier of garden pots and gardenware. The first products in the partnership will be launched to retailers for pre-order in September 2021. They will begin distribution in January 2022. PAGE 10
apparel to accessories, homewares, gifting, collectibles and stationery all focused on the dogs, trained by an incredible team of people, to make a life changing difference to visually impaired people. As well as Raising puppies to become Guide Dogs, the charity, which was recently named as the 6th most popular UK charity in a YouGov Poll, is also the largest provider of services for children and young people with a vision impairment. Guide Dogs has an unparalleled reputation for canine care and expertise as the world’s largest breeder and trainer of dogs, making it the perfect brand for dog lovers nationwide. Rob Corney, MD, Bulldog Licensing, commented, “Guide Dogs does some incredible work helping people with visual impairment to lead happy, independent lives safely through their incredible dog partnerships, which gives them a special place in the heart of the UK population. We’re excited to start building a range of products for Guide Dog owners and trainers themselves, as well as our nation of dog lovers.” TOTAL BRAND LICENSING
SPORT Can you outline some of the merchandise and licensing partnerships that have been signed for RLWC2021? Within the retail, merchandise and licensing space of the RLWC2021 commercial programme we have a number of partnerships to help us achieve our objectives. We see this area as driving revenue for the tournament, creating engagement to both core and non-core fans, and also the opportunity for future tournaments and the wider sport to benefit from the ‘legacy’ of such activity, whether that be new partners, new infrastructure, new ways of working etc. Cube Partnerships is our official retail partner. They work with us on our online store which was launched last year and the range of products within this which will continue to expand over the next 10 months. During tournament time in October and November they will also run our retail operation across the 61 matches at 21 venues that will take place. Kappa is the official apparel partner of RLWC2021. They create retail products for consumers working alongside Cube, and will also provide kit to the referees, volunteers and staff members at the tournament. They have a superb heritage and experience in both sport and consumer lifestyle, which was very attractive to us. We want to expand the reach of Rugby League to new audiences, and feel that fashion and lifestyle via Kappa can play an important role in this. Supplementing this is Riverside Brands who is our official licensing agency. Ashley Holman, Riverside MD, has great contacts and experience in this space, and we want to show how licensing can drive revenue but also expand our reach via collaboration. We’re excited about the opportunities here and have a few announcements coming up shortly. We’ve also been working with Skew who have done a tremendous job on producing our consumer style guide to support the work of Riverside. This has really shown how we and licensees can extend our brand. The tournament will be the largest standalone sporting event in this country in 2021, and with every minute of every match being shown live on the BBC, it will have an unprecedented profile for the sport and our partners. Alongside our positioning and USPs such TOTAL BRAND LICENSING
as inclusivity - with the men’s, women’s and wheelchair tournaments running concurrently for the first time ever at a major event - and creating positive social impacts within communities, we’re excited about the opportunities and role that licensing can play. How has the pandemic affected your work – have there been particular challenges and conversely what positives have you noticed? The last 12 months have been a huge challenge for everyone, and we are very aware that there are clearly more important things going on in the world than RLWC2021. As a business we moved quickly to remote working, and have been able to be productive in this environment throughout the pandemic. As you would expect we’ve done many reviews and scenario plans during this time but are confident and optimistic moving forward. Some of the challenges are the wider commercial impacts such as the ability for brands to plan and commit due to the huge degree of uncertainty, although at the same time we’ve had good conversations on the role that collaborating with the tournament can have in supporting businesses post pandemic. There is a huge desire for people to attend live sport again and have something to look forward to, so hopefully we can play a small role in that for both people and the business community. Alongside this I think we’ve seen the whole industry be hugely resilient and you could argue that the industry has progressed at a quicker rate than it would have done in some areas, notably digital, innovation and fan engagement. Tell us about the partnership with Cazoo and why it is such a good fit? We were absolutely delighted to welcome Cazoo as our Principal Sponsor in November last year. They are the UK’s leading online car retailer, a hugely innovative brand that is growing rapidly and we’re really excited about working with them. They’re a new brand to the sport which has been a focus of our sponsorship strategy, and it’s also the largest sponsorship deal in Rugby League World Cup history so supports our ambition to be bold, brave and set firsts for the tournament. We want to be trailblazing and positively dis-
Talking Rugby with Jonathan Neill, Commercial Director RLWC2021
ruptive in the sector, and I think we share these attributes with Cazoo, whilst at the same time we want to help support their ambition to become a household name. What kind of licensing partnerships are you looking to forge? We’re very open to the licensing partnerships that we can create across a range of categories. Some are more obvious such as apparel, accessories and commemorative, but we also want to speak to wider categories where we can be a good fit and help meet the objectives of that business. Publishing is an area we will shortly release a tender for which will cover match day programmes and also further opportunities such as photography, history, children’s books and ideas others may have. We have a broad audience including circa 20m viewers on the BBC for our matches, 750,000 fans in attendance across 18 host towns and cities, and 14 million people in the UK following Rugby League, which provides superb outreach and awareness for products. How many sponsors do you work with commercially? In terms of official sponsors we have seven at the moment. Cazoo as our Principal Sponsor as mentioned previously, and also Eversheds Sutherland, Deloitte, Manchester Metropolitan University, Kappa, Kuehne+Nagel and Assura. PAGE 11
NEWS
EARL ENTERPRISES APPOINTS AGENCY
RHUDE MCLAREN DEAL
Earl Enterprises, a leader in the field of entertainment, leisure, tourism, hotels and restaurants, has appointed IMG to extend its Planet Hollywood, Buca di Beppo, Bertucci’s, Bravo! Italian Kitchen, Brio Italian Grille, and Earl of Sandwich brands globally through product and brand licensing partnerships. IMG will work with Earl Enterprises to creatively extend its diverse portfolio across food, beverage, lifestyle, gaming, and experiential categories through a range of product and brand licensing collaborations that reflect the unique characteristics of its hospitality and restaurant brands. “We firmly believe that customers’ affinities for our brands extend well beyond the in-restaurant dining experience and we are always looking for new ways to connect with our customers and be at the forefront of new trends,” commented Robert Earl, Founder & CEO of Earl Enterprises. “IMG is the perfect partner to help take this to the next level, with a series of thoughtful licensed products and experiences that will embody everything customers know and love about our brands.” Bruno Maglione, President of Licensing, IMG, added,“We’re thrilled to be working with Earl Enterprises and its diverse portfolio
McLaren Racing has today announced a collaboration with luxury fashion brand, Rhude to produce a set of exclusive capsule collections launching throughout the 2021 Formula 1 season. The collections will reimagine the powerful stories and iconography of McLaren’s renowned Formula 1 history, conveying the style and energy of racing into innovative and progressive designs. Rhude founded by Rhuigi Villaseñor in 2015, is a design venture born out of Los Angeles, balancing luxury techniques with streetwear elements showcased as ready-to-wear and tailored collections. Rhude journey chronicles the evolution of a man from adolescence to maturity, a narrative reflected in each collection with both the Creative Director and brand continuing to grow its expanding global fanbase. McLaren and Rhude will bring the brands’ pioneering ideals and unique history together to form a collaboration that will pay homage to racing legend Bruce McLaren, as seen through the lens of modern luxury and Rhuigi’s own respect for Formula 1, resulting in a unique fusion of sport and fashion.
of established restaurant brands loved around the world, from the iconic Planet Hollywood to the fun and festive family-favorite, Italian-American chain Buca di Beppo. Using our specialized expertise, we are looking forward to building upon their success and creating products and experiences that will allow consumers to enjoy their favorite menu items in new formats, new occasions and at home.” IMG will pursue opportunities that reflect the heritage and tastes of each of the brands. IMG will work closely with Earl Enterprises and licensees to leverage the strength of the brands across a variety of new retail channels, including grocery, club, specialty, ecommerce, and more.
PANINI LAUNCH SCOTLAND STICKER COLLECTION Panini have announced the launch of the Scotland Official Campaign Sticker Collection 2021. Following Scotland’s nail-biting European Championship qualification, fans will relish the opportunity to celebrate their victory with this exclusive collection. The collection of 200 stickers features the entire football squad, and includes shiny stickers. The album has four pages dedicated to the entire squad plus 20 pages which focus on individual players, with facts and stats about their footballing careers. Four pages highlight key moments in
the squad’s historic path to the championships, and a further two pages shine the spotlight on the star performers who led Scotland to glory. The collection went on sale at the end of January. Mike Riddell, Managing Director of Panini UK and Ireland said, “Scotland’s qualification for their first major tournament since the 1998 World Cup not only ends 22 years of waiting patiently for life-long Scottish football fans like myself, but also brings Scottish football to the forefront for a whole new generation of sticker collectors. I cannot wait for this celebratory collection to burst onto the Scottish market.” Chris Rawlings, Scottish FA Commercial Director: “It has been far too long a wait for Scotland supporters to see their heroes in a Panini sticker album for a major finals. We are looking forward to capturing the imagination of a whole new generation of sticker collectors and hope that this is just the first of many sticker albums we collaborate with Panini on in the coming years.”
GODFATHER HAT COLLECTION Headwear brand Milliner has introduced a collection of hats based on The Godfather. The Legacy collection is the first officially licensed headwear range for Milliner. The collection comprises four trucker caps each featuring an embroidered patch from The Godfather including the original Godfather logo. The range is now available exclusively on Zavvi.com. PAGE 12
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FOOD & DRINK
Enticing Deals for Food & Drink Brands Far from the days of label-slapping a brand across a food or drink product, the deals that are being forged within the food & drink brand extension industry are increasingly sophisticated and really reiterate the creativity of an industry that has had to adapt to challenging times. Banijay Brands, in partnership with official Peaky Blinders brand owner and producer, Caryn Mandabach Productions, last year launched the first official Peaky Blinders wine. Inspired by the multi-award winning drama, Peaky Blinders, renowned French vineyard, Vignobles Bardet, has created two red wines, a Saint-Emilion and a Saint- Emilion Grand Cru. Born from the highly-regarded Bordeaux region following research into 1920s wine in partnership with wine historian Jean-Michel Chevet, the offerings are set to give buyers the opportunity to immerse themselves in the world of the international hit drama. The wine will initially be available in France but is available for export, via local distributors in key markets across Europe and Asia.
Jane Smith, Group Director, Brand Licensing of Banijay Brands comments; “In Vignobles Bardet we have found an established and creative partner to create an authentic product, which is perfectly suited to the Peaky Blinders brand. This collaboration has created two fine reds that will give fans an authentic taste of the 1920s in the very style that would be shared at the Shelby table.” Thibault Bardet, Vignobles Bardet comments; “It’s easy to imagine a character like Thomas Shelby importing his own wine from our great-great-grandfather Jean Roy on the prestigious Saint-Emilion region of Bordeaux and we believe these reds are exactly what he would have chosen. We are extremely proud to produce a product that captures the true essence of Peaky Blinders.” The Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) has announced a partnership with historic South
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African fruit and wine farm Babylonstoren to produce an RHS rosé wine. The wine will launch just before the RHS Chelsea Flower Show on 17 May 2021, for which it will be the official rosé wine. Visitors to the RHS Chelsea Flower Show will be the first to taste the special vintage. Babylonstoren will harvest and bottle the grapes mere weeks before the RHS Chelsea Flower Show 2021, then rush the first shipment to London. The rosé will feature a designation label on the front of the bottle. The RHS logo and information about Britain’s favourite gardening charity will appear on the label on the back of the bottle. This is a first for the RHS. The charity has a wine club for members and has also in the past endorsed a limited edition honeybee gin with Warner’s Distillery. However, it has never licensed a specific wine before. Cathy Snow, Licensing Manager, RHS, says: PAGE 13
FOOD & DRINK “Rosé is an ideal spring and summer wine, and the first-ever RHS-endorsed rosé calls to mind flowers, gardens and the outdoors, with the promise that warmer days are on the way. What better way could there be to welcome Britain’s best-loved flower show? We’re delighted to be partnering with Babylonstoren on this wonderful wine.” NIO Cocktails and GQ have partnered to create a unique and luxurious tasting experience with a cocktail collection perfectly crafted, fusing hedonism, style and luxury with all five senses. Produced by NIO Cocktails and designed exclusively for the taste of GQ, the collection is sold as a hand-crafted gift set made with 100% recyclable materials, and is available to buy online and ready to taste in the comfort of your own home. The cocktails comprise elements of 4 cities, 4 capitals of taste, 4 different styles. Brandgenuity has recently been selected by Kahlúa to be its exclusive licensing agency. Kahlúa, headquartered in Sweden and produced in Mexico, is the global leader in coffee liqueur. Kahlúa, known for its playful and easygoing attitude, is the central ingredient in a variety of trending classic cocktails, including the Espresso Martini, White Russian and
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Cold Brew Soda. Created in Veracruz more than eight decades ago, Kahlúa sold more than 1.5 million 9 litre cases and shipped to more than 15 markets, in 2019. “We are so excited to get started with Brandgenuity to build a strategic and innovative licensing program for Kahlúa,” said Tamara Urukalo, the Global VP Marketing at Kahlúa. “We are the #1 coffee liqueur brand, and coffee cocktails are exploding globally. The Espresso Martini is the #7 most asked for cocktail in the world, according to Drinks International.” Added Tamara, “Brandgenuity really understood our brand – that we are made with arabica coffee, sugar cane rum, and a sprinkling of colorful Mexican heritage with a witty, fun and inclusive personality.” Kahlúa currently has two licensee partners, White Coffee and Keurig, and the agency is planning to build upon their success. The agency is excited to think “outside of the
bottle” about this iconic brand. The Original Stormtrooper licensing programme, managed by Golden Goose, in 2020 celebrated the launch of three new 70cl gin variants to complement the Salted Caramel and Vodka liqueurs in B&M Stores. These new spirits from licensee Blue Tree Gifts strengthen the brand in the BWS category where it has already driven sales of over 150,000 Original Stormtrooper giftsets. Meanwhile, lockdown has increased demand for Original Stormtrooper Beer. The Sourceror’s Ben Fowler confessed “the huge rise in on-line ordering has massively challenged our supply chain. It really is all-hands-to-thepump.” Finally, licensee Beer Buddies is unveiling a hand-sculpted wall mounted Original Stormtrooper bottle opener: a sure sign of the brand’s potential in this space. TOTAL BRAND LICENSING
FOOD & DRINK Shepperton Design Studio’s Andrew Ainsworth commented “any connection between these products and the Stormtrooper’s failure to shoot straight is purely coincidental.” Arla and Diageo are continuing their successful relationship, brokered by Beanstalk, by releasing their annual festive Baileys Cream range with the addition of a new flavour -Baileys Extra Thick Salted Caramel Cream -and brand-new packaging. The Baileys Cream range has been a huge hit since its first launch in 2016, and the range of creams continues to delight consumers throughout the holiday season with bold, tasty flavours.
Building on their successful five-year relationship, Arla, a dairy with a capacity to produce 1.5 million bottles a day, and Diageo, one of the world’s largest producers of spirits and beers, have released their annual festive Baileys Cream range, which includes Baileys Pouring Cream, Baileys Extra Thick Cream and the brand new Baileys Extra Thick Salted Caramel Cream. The new Baileys Extra Thick Salted Caramel Cream contains sweetened pasteurised double cream with a salted caramel sauce accompanied by Baileys Original Irish Cream Liqueur. Unilever Australia’s brand extension agency, Asembl has grown Golden Gaytime’s licensing program with first-time food licensing deals which will see Snack Brands Australia and Chocolatier Australia partner with Australia’s favourite ice-cream brand. Each partnership has been strategically developed to create food product lines which complement the unique taste sensation that is a Golden Gaytime – combined with the quality ingredients both Snack Brands Australia and Chocolatier Australia are nationally recognised for is guaranteed to make Griffin’s Marvels Golden Gaytime Popcorn and the Eggsellence Easter Egg must-have Golden Gaytime flavour sensations. “The Asembl team have delivered two very exciting food partnerships for Golden Gaytime that will see our much-loved ice-cream brand extend into the snack food aisles as flavoured popcorn and an ‘eggsellent’ Easter Egg. We are pleased to be partnering with both Snack Brands Australia and Chocolatier Australia to deliver our Golden Gaytime fans with snacks that they are guaranteed to enjoy,” said Unilever Australia Brand Manager, Samantha Jarmul 2020 was a challenging year for consumers
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and brands alike. Government rules to stay inside created great demand for at-home experiences as consumers still wanted to interact with their favourite brands but had to do so from the comfort of their own homes. For TGI Fridays, the launch of their first exclusive retail collaboration with Iceland in September allowed fans to continue to enjoy their menu favourites when going out was no longer an option. The frozen appetizers range includes some of TGI Fridays best-selling restaurant items such as Potato Skins, Jalapeño Cheese Bites and Boneless Hot Wings and consumers can finish off their at-home experience with a signature TGI Fridays dessert, including New York Cheesecake and Brownie Obsession. The new range compliments the existing TGI Fridays licensing programme, and fans of the brand can now enjoy the full TGI Fridays experience from tasty appetizers and sides, succulent meats and ribs, indulgent desserts and holiday giftware. The deal was brokered by Beanstalk. Moving into the aisles of the UK’s leading frozen food retailer with an exclusive range of frozen appetizers and desserts has proved a successful strategy for the brand to further drive awareness and keep consumers connected while Covid-19 restrictions continue to keep them indoors. Consumers can now still get that Friday feeling throughout the week, whether that’s a night in front of the TV or a Monday night family supper around the kitchen table, making every day feel like a Friday. PAGE 15
PEUGEOT
Legacy, Innovation and Global Resonance Felipe Noriega, VP & Regional Director, EMEA, Licensing Matters Global tells us why now is the perfect time to kickstart the worldwide program for Peugeot Why is now a good time to launch the Peugeot global licensing program? The Peugeot brand celebrated its 210th anniversary at the end of last year. In recent years it has conquered millions of new loyal customers beyond the automotive sector via its two existing licensed product verticals: Tableware and DIY Tools. Time is ripe to take the next step in the expansion of this beloved, iconic French brand, and expand its footprint into new product categories where Peugeot’s legacy and attributes will add tangible value to the consumer proposition. Can you give us a brief outline of the history of Peugeot? The Peugeot adventure began 210 years ago, in 1810, in the valleys of FrancheComté, France. Over the years, the company’s inventions, ranging from ground-breaking saw blades to the first petrol-powered automobiles, via stylish table mills and household equipment, have made Peugeot a famous family brand that knows no borders. Peugeot has always been a multi-universe brand. Today, this global licensing program led by Licensing Matters Global is the natural evolution in propagating the Peugeot experience around the world. And has licensing ever been done with the brand on a wide scale before? Yes, Peugeot has two ongoing successful, large scale licensing programs: the first one is PAGE 16
Peugeot Tableware (‘Instruments of Taste’), which encompasses pepper mills, salt mills, coffee mills, cutlery, glassware, bakeware and kitchen knives; and the second one is the DIY Electric Tools range (‘Creative Energy’). We plan to build upon the success of these two pillars to expand into multiple new product verticals. What are the initial plans for the program? The program will begin in Europe. Peugeot’s strong brand resonance across Europe provides the initial revenue opportunity. North America, China, the rest of Asia and Latin America will follow. And do you have licensees signed already? We just kickstarted this global program, after spending 5 months developing a strategic action plan in close coordination with the Peugeot Family Group. We are already having in-depth discussions with selected licensees and the objective is to launch the first products globally in 2022. Which areas are you looking to branch into – and what do you look for in a potential licensing partner? We seek partners that share common values with the Peugeot Family Group. We try and find creators who can inject a healthy dose of technical ingenuity into products designed with a sense of timeless elegance and evoke the sensory-emotional appeal that Peugeot’s products arouse in consumers. Peugeot constantly strives to improve the daily life of consumers. We aim to do have this impact in product categories such as Toys, Garden Power Tools, Major Electric Appliances, Travel Accessories
and Fashion, among others. Are there any ‘left-field’ areas that you are looking at? We will pursue product categories that may not be very common in automotive brand licensing programs –and this is precisely because the Peugeot brand is so much more than an automotive brand. Peugeot’s multicategory heritage leads us to seek, for example, partners in Sports Equipment and in Camping Equipment. Why Sports Equipment? Because high performance, speed, precision and endurance all run in the Peugeot brand’s DNA and are embodied in the Peugeot Lion emblem. Peugeot’s relentless strive to be best in class underpins the brand’s foray into the world of Sports Equipment. Why Camping Equipment? Because of Peugeot’s expertise in creating sturdy products that can withstand the inclemency of nature, while bringing friends and family together in harmony with nature. Nothing we are doing is gratuitous, it is founded in the brand’s DNA. But some of our plans may seem left-field at first sight. Peugeot is globally renowned – do you think that the long history and trusted name makes it ideal to branch into licensing with similar trusted partners? What’s past is prologue, wrote Shakespeare. And in this case, it is very much the 210 years of Peugeot’s relentless multi-category innovation that animate the foundation of a credible, viable, multi-category, long term licensing program. We believe the world needs more Peugeot products! Or, put another way, likeminded, trustworthy creators of amazing products need the Peugeot brand to bring their products to life in the market. At Licensing Matters Global we are tremendously excited to be part of this creative adventure! TOTAL BRAND LICENSING
LEGAL
Influencers: Breaking the Law Without Realising?
Influencers have changed the marketing game forever. Once, buying a slot of time on a TV channel to advertise your product or service was the most popular and effective method of advertising. But now, paying an influencer to promote your brand can reach your target audience – their engaged and interested followers. Influencer marketing is now one of the most effective ways to target most brand’s primary their legal rights in the booming multibildemographic, millennials. Adweek reported lion-dollar social advertising industry. If, as that businesses are spending 500 per cent an influencer, you use images that haven’t more on been created or commissioned advertising Posting unoriginal by yourself or are not marked directed at as free for public use, you content on social media is millennials could be liable for wilful inthan any other theft of a creator’s fringement. A copyright can be demographic. intellectual property... applied by creators to protect Today, young their intellectual property, so people spend reusing digital content in social an estimated media posts that generate revenue is classed as nine hours a day on social apps, making sobreaking the law. cial media advertising the best choice to reach If an influencer doesn’t hold the rights to these young consumers. content but is interested in using it for their The rapid growth of the influencer market own purposes, they need to seek a licensing has attracted its own challenges, so brands and influencers must be aware and up-to-date agreement like in any other industry. The copyright holder can permit influencers to with rules and regulations. When it comes use images in to licensing, there are many ways specified Businesses are spending ambiguous rules influencers in the licensing 500 per cent more on need to follow, otherwise agreement. they might not even realise advertising directed at In the same that they’re breaking the law. millennials way, influencPosting unoriginal content ers can have on social media is theft of a their content creator’s intellectual property, stolen, with other sites seeking to monetise and more and more creators are exercising
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from an influencers’ copyrighted images without permission or a licence. When influencers are paid to create a post promoting a brand, they can maximise their profit by protect-
Influencer marketing is now one of the most effective ways to target most brand’s primary demographic... ing the content they make. Influencers can license the photograph used to the brand for an endorsement, which can be used on the brand’s website or other advertising mediums. Copyright infringement of influencer content is quite common, with third-party sources taking content to drive their own revenue. Influencer marketing is evolving the commercial landscape, with licences needed for social media posts due to the way this content can generate profit. Research undertaken by Tan Luxe www.tan-luxe.com
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COVER STORY
Cover Story: A Winning Mindset
Tom Brady Taps Licensing Giant IMG to Grow Wellness Brand TB12 TB12, the global health and wellness company co-founded by seven-time Super Bowl champion Tom Brady and business partner Alex Guerrero, recently signed with IMG
for licensing and brand collaborations to enable even more people to live an active and healthy lifestyle with the brand’s proprietary holistic training method.
Inspired by a mindset of accepting no limits, the TB12 Method places emphasis on preparing, performing, reinforcing and recovering to ensure you can do what you love better and for longer. The brand reflects the holistic approach to training and daily habits that Brady and his Body Coach, Guerrero, have developed over their fifteen-year partnership that has empowered the star to shatter records, play better, and recover even faster at the age of 43. Brady and Guerrero now seek to share their philosophy with audiences around the world in an accessible and authentic way to empower people to continue doing what they love – longer than anyone ever thought possible. Brady embodies longevity and has had unprecedented sustained success on the field
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COVER STORY over a 20 year career, with seven Super Bowl victories, five Super Bowl ‘Most Valuable Player’ awards and numerous other NFL records and accolades, including Most All Time Wins and Most All Time Touchdown Passes. Now in partnership with IMG, TB12 will further democratize the principles that Brady and Guerrero have perfected over the years and share them with new audiences to become the world’s most trusted authority on health and wellness. The TB12 Method focuses on the key pillars of Pliability, Hydration, Nutrition, Functional Strength and Conditioning, and a Winning Mindset. Pliability - Muscles that are elastic, resilient, and ready for anything. Hydration - Adequate fluids with the right electrolytes to keep your mind and muscles firing. Nutrition - Proper food with smart supplementation to fuel your brain.
And now, the industry is taking notice of TB12’s Methodology: “At 43, Brady won his seventh Super Bowl and earned his fifth Super Bowl MVP title (a league record for both). Brady credits his longevity and success to his strict health and wellness regimen, the TB12 Method…” – CNBC “Brady has said…he would consider playing past age 45, adding that he’ll know when the time is right to stop playing football. One thing is for certain: Brady’s own lifestyle will not be the cause of any future decline.” – Business Insider “Brady credits his longevity to his regimented lifestyle. Over the years, Brady has shed light on his diet, exercise and recovery habits, and overall lifestyle with a book, “The TB12 Method,” a documentary, and in interviews...The TB12 Method is built on 12 different principles, from balance and moderation to promoting anti-inflammatory responses in the body. But the most important concept may be the first one on the list: pliability. Brady calls it “the missing leg of performance training.” – Insider “While NFL players are known for size and strength, Brady swears by a fitness regimen that focuses on “pliability” – a term he and his fitness guru coined – to keep moving. Pliability is a combination of muscle strength, endurance and, most importantly flexibility. As physical therapists, we could not agree more with Brady’s philosophy that muscular flexibility is key to mobility as we age.” – Physical Therapy & Sports Medicine
Functional Strength & Conditioning Improving your functional strength, stability, and mobility to win the day, everyday. Winning Mindset - Tools, exercises and activities to increase cognitive performance and strengthen the mind-body connection. Join the Movement Together with IMG, TB12 is building a leading global program with products and protocols that empower people to be the best version of themselves by helping them prepare, perform, recover and reinforce healthy daily habits. TB12’s prescriptive approach is perfect for anyone seeking to lead a long, energetic, and vibrant life. Licensing and retail opportunities include recovery devices and aids, fitness equipment, performance apparel and footwear, food and beverage, nutraceuticals, bedding, white goods and sleep aids. Contact TB12@img.com to join the movement!
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POINT.1888
Licensing – we’re here to last The Point.1888 tells Total Brand Licensing how they have managed to not just survive but thrive over the last 12 months..
The Point.1888 may not have as long a history as many of its competitors in the licensing industry but the prospect of putting the business “on hold” back in March when the pan-demic struck the UK wasn’t any less painful. Our team of 20 people had spent the last five years establishing a company known for its ambition, bravery and ingenuity and as a result, things couldn’t have been rosier pre-Lockdown with a solid pipeline of new business as well as product launches and client signings every other week. The determination Will Stewart, our founder and MD, and the rest of the team had shown up to that point was probably the main reason we were able to devise a Lockdown plan so quickly. We may not have had “pandemic” in our contingency planning but we were sure as hell going to make sure our business survived. No, not survived….. thrived. And if the last quarter’s results and award wins are PAGE 20
anything to go by, we did it. So how did we achieve it? Pre-pandemic, we made no secret of the fact that we were an ultraflexible business which meant that as well as offering our staff unlimited holidays, they also had the freedom to work wherever and whenever they wanted (as long as they put in the required hours). This enabled us to hire and retain the industry’s best people across the UK – from Essex to Chichester to North Wales and it ensured that we were already experts at video calls and remote working. First transition of the lockdown – done. The other important goal for us was to ensure that the tools we considered key to a suc-cessful brand licensing programme could still operate. Meetings with clients, retailers and manufacturers were shifted over to Zoom or Teams but that left us with the predicament of how to run our all important
Immersion sessions. Pre-pandemic, the team would spend several days on site with a client, getting to grips with their values and purpose first hand. Without this, mistakes further down the line could happen. There was also the vital Immersion Events at which potential retailers and licensees could hear from the brand, ourselves, and any marketing and PR support about the plans for the licensing programme. We proved back in September with our Meet Moomin virtual event that it can be done online with 82 attendees and shared enthusiasm across the board for what we are sure will be a very successful programme. We also held an event for our client Moonbug Entertainment in November attended by 225 guests from far and wide- Poland to Turkey, Spain to the UAE! We have four more virtual client events planned over the next six months. Brand licensing aside, how did we keep the other elements of our business going such as finance, HR and communications? Honesty and integrity. We didn’t sugar coat the situation – it was tough and some of our team were furloughed. But, we paid every invoice. We fol-lowed every commitment. We ensured every member of our team still had a job to get back to. We’ve also learned a lot from this year’s challenges and will be approaching 2021 more efficient and prepared. Brand licensing has a huge role to play this year and we’re ready.
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NEWS
PLUS LICENS APPOINTED AS EUROPEAN AGENT, EXCL. UK, FOR CAMBRIDGE The University of Cambridge, via its commercial rights subsidiary FME Ltd, is pleased to appoint Plus Licens AB as its licensing agent for Europe, except for the UK. Founded in 1209, the University of Cambridge is the fourth-oldest university in the world. Among its alumni it has 110 Nobel Prize Laureates, 47 Heads of State and 190 Olympic Medallists. The University of Cambridge is rich in history – its famous Colleges and University buildings attract visitors from all over the world. But the University’s museums and collections also hold many treasures which give an exciting insight into some of the scholarly activities, both past and present, of the University’s academics and students. Its reputation for outstanding academic achievement is known worldwide and reflects the intellectual achievement of its students, as well as the world-class original research carried out by the staff of the University and the Colleges. With alumni that include Newton, Keynes, Hawking and Darwin, Cambridge has always been and continues to be a place of where curious minds make great discoveries including gravity, DNA and evolution to name a few. “FME Ltd manages both the University trademark programme and the commercial rights of the rich collections of its museums. In the UK, FME Ltd has retail, online CuratingCambridge.com), wholesale and licensing divisions and, with the support of Plus Licens, it would like to give the opportunity to the rest of the European based licensees and consumers to enjoy a unique Cambridge experience. It is proud to be working with Plus Licens, its very first licensing agent for the territory,” commented Len Dunne, Chief Executive Officer, Fitzwilliam Museum
Enterprises Ltd Plus Licens added, “We are extremely proud and happy to have been appointed the pan-European agent by University of Cambridge! The University and the great museums represent everything that the world needs now more than ever: education, history, art and science. Plus Licens is committed to long term relationships and we now look forward to start a brand program based on the good values and fantastic art programs available from The University of Cambridge.”
VALERO ENTERPRISES TO LICENSE KRAVET HOME FURNISHINGS BRAND Valéro Enterprises, a major US branding firms, has entered into an exclusive agreement with world renowned home furnishings brand Kravet Inc. The Kravet brand has a 100 year reputation as being the ultimate “go to” for discerning customers seeking luxury design. From classic to whimsical, Kravet embodies the current trends with quality and excellence at the forefront.
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Kravet’s well established brands have become synonymous with trusted and beloved home decor and a favorite of leading interior designers. The Kravet umbrella of brands includes Kravet, Lee Jofa, Brunschwig & Fils, Donghia, GP & J Baker, Mulberry Home and Threads. Over the years, Kravet has also captured the imagination of customer’s by partnering with top designers including Calvin Klein, Diane von Furstenberg, Kate Spade New York, Echo, Nate Berkus, Lilly Pulitzer and Jonathan Adler. With over 40 showrooms in the US alone, Kravet brands have also created retail partnerships with top brick and mortar destinations including H&M, Mitchell Gold + Bob Williams and The Shade Store. Susan Valéro, President and CEO of Valéro Enterprises states, “My team and I are so excited to have the opportunity to bring this celebrated brand into new lifestyle categories. The rich colors, themes and patterns in the Kravet brands lend themselves beautifully to a myriad of categories. We can’t wait to introduce these new categories to customers everywhere.” Available categories include kitchen textiles, dinnerware, glassware, serveware, tabletop, bedding, bath, tiles, flooring, apparel, footwear, bags, scarves, headwear and bridal.
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PROFILE
Howard Robinson As the COVID-19 virus appeared and spread and the whole world seemed to be put on hold it has been a good time to reflect at where we are and what we are doing. As the news has been totally dominated with lock-downs, masks, social distancing and hos-
pital reports it has been nice to see new Selfie installations in children’s wards, schools, dentist and veterinary surgeries and doctors waiting rooms intending to create a calming space in these stressful situations. The brand new Dubbo Base Hospital in NSW, Australia have recently revealed a new Selfie mural installation in their Medical Imaging Department. Not surprisingly the lock down had created a renewed interest in hobbies and crafts with jigsaw puzzles becoming one of the go to activities to fill in the time and keep people sane, many
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stores running out of stock. Much of the recent licensing activity has also been in this category with paint by numbers for Hinkler in Australia, diamond painting kits for both Diamond Painting Deutschland and Dozelf in the Netherlands, wooden puzzles with Decolaser in Argentina, stitch kits with Art Needlepoint Co in the USA and a range of Selfie activity books with Kidsbooks Publishing in the USA. We were honoured and amazed to receive the Elite Business and Leadership Award for the Best Beach Front Resort in our first year of opening our Selfie Beach Resort although there is much work still to be done. Everything is on hold at the moment due to the lock downs but we have used the time wisely and are proud to have helped the local community during these very hard times and have had our staff deliver regular food parcels to 300 of the poorest local families. TOTAL BRAND LICENSING
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ART & DESIGN
Total Art Licensing Special Supplement Welcome to the Total Art Licensing special supplement, highlighting some of the top artists, designers and agencies working in the world of art licensing today Jehane Ltd is celebrating on-going expansion and significant growth since the pandemic began. With major licensing deals and an invitation to sponsor The Lynn Tait Most Promising Young Designer or Artist Award at The Henries 2020 the year ahead is set to see further success for this Brighton-based Illustration agency. First up to announce for the agency in 2021 are two exclusive stationery ranges with UK partners Museums & Galleries (MGML). Wild Press sees the addition of greeting-cards to MGML’s best-selling range of stationery by artist Helen Ahpornsiri whose unique images are made by hand from hundreds of leaves and flowers with traditional flower-pressing methods. Second is a brand-new range of cards and stationery by leading light Catherine Rowe whose artwork embodies luxury and opulence. Catherine Rowe won the Liberty Open Call for a new iconic Liberty fabric in 2018. Her winning design ‘Palace Gardens’ was launched in 2019 and Catherine’s career has flourished ever since. Jehane Ltd is continuing to develop its niche in children’s book publishing and editorial. Jehane’s artists are currently working on new fully illustrated titles for 2021/2022 covering a range of topics from author-illustrated picture-books to Jane Eyre and nature-inspired books. With a range of titles set to be released by agency clients including Scholastic, Sleeping Bear Press, Kids Can Press, and Red Paper Kite. Last but not least, one of the agency’s books has been awarded as the Book of the Year for Younger Readers 2020 by the CBCA (Children’s Book Council of Australia). “The Secrets of Magnolia Moon” is illustrated by PAGE 26
JNew Zealand artist Katherine Quinn, written by Edwina Wyatt, and published by Walker Books Australia. With a dedication to outstanding quality, artistry, and creative ideas licensees working with Jehane Ltd can depend on artwork which is beautifully crafted to make art work. Jehane Ltd continues to compete at a high level. 2021 sees the continuing launch of the UK agency’s latest collaboration with games innovator Borderleap and Apple Arcade. Four of the agency’s leading artists Tracey English, Jade Mosinski, Katherine Quinn, and Natalie Pedetti-Prack have been commissioned to create new work for the puzzle game ‘Patterned’. Over the next twelve months, sixty carefully researched designs by Jehane Ltd artists will be being released into the game focused on the theme of travel. Borderleap’s founder Nate Dicken says “Patterned is taking a trip around the world! Introducing a new selection of beautiful patterns celebrating peoples, culture and landmarks of numerous countries and regions around the world. Over 300 unique, new patterns handcrafted by 13 select artists, released on a regular basis over the next year. "Patterns around the world" will kick off in October 2020 starting with regions in the USA, Canada, and the Caribbean…”. Patterned is for pattern and puzzle lovers alike. Playable on Apple Arcade, Borderleap is an independent game studio with a passion for creating beautiful, innovative games. A designled game, Patterned is a unique puzzle game that immerses you in the beauty and joy of seamless, repeating patterns. Each pattern begins as a sketch and you must use visual clues to reassemble its scrambled pieces. Piece
by piece, each pattern begins to come alive in increasing amounts of colour and structure. When the final piece is seen, the pattern fills the screen in full colour. Patterned paves the way for the future of game users. Combining high-calibre artwork with interactive content. Accompanied with a range of relaxing piano soundtracks, agency owner Jehane Boden Spiers’ own designs are also featured in the Apple Arcade games app. Jehane predicts ‘This is a game parents will play more than their children’. The patterns are seamlessly repeated and indeed endlessly playable.
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ART & DESIGN
Since their launch in November 2020 Creative Sparrow, a licensing agency set up by long-term industry name Hannah Curtis, has gone from strength to strength. Doubling its portfolio of creatives in a matter of weeks, the agency is set to soar across all areas of licensing in 2021. Recent signings include surface pattern illustrators Caro Windmuller and Jane Sunner, who have both had long and successful careers within the fashion industry; Caro having recently collaborated with luxury Argentinian fashion brand Cloetas on a stunning on-trend advertising campaign. The agency also signed creatives Colleen Harrington, Ginger Deverell and Maria Over who all showcase fresh trendled portfolios perfect for Home Décor and other products. Working with clients and artists globally, Creative Sparrow facilitates successful collaborations across all creative sectors. Recent licensing partnerTOTAL BRAND LICENSING
ships include projects in Animation, Apparel, Greetings & Stationery, Home & Gift and Packaging. The agency is looking to expand its remit across Advertising, Children’s Products, Editorial and Publishing.
"Creativity is at the heart of our agency..." Launching amid a pandemic, Creative Sparrow has quickly and successfully positioned itself as a go-to, solutions-based agency, and, as a small start-up with a big background, the agency is able to react quickly and nimbly to
its clients’ needs. Creatives represented by the agency have worked with household names such as Ted Baker, Marks & Spencer, John Lewis, Paperchase, Sainsbury’s, Clintons, Random House, Pier 1, Hilary’s blinds, Accessorize, Matalan, The Range, Costco & Tesco ….to name a few. ‘’Creativity is at the heart of the agency,’’ comments Hannah, ‘‘we are continuously producing beautiful art and showcasing a portfolio of outstanding creatives. We generate successful collaborations between our creatives and clients: executional excellence is a core value of the agency. Our Passion means we use drive and dedication to engage and inspire others.’’
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ART & DESIGN
Emma Lawrence Designs was first spotted by several manufacturers at Spring Fair a couple of years ago. This interest pivoted her into the world of licensing, where she continues to expand her portfolio. From kitchenware to children’s nature activity sets, jewellery and baby toys, the appeal of her brand continues to grow. Emma has now appointed licensing guru Mel Humberstone-Garley, of MHG Licensing who instantly recognised the potential in Emma’s vast array of assets. Mel was also intrigued by Emma’s story behind her brand. Despite being such a prolific illustrator, Emma Lawrence Designs is a relatively young business and is a second career for Emma. She previously worked as a Consultant Neuropsychologist. From NHS Doctor to Illustrator? How did that happen? Emma explains. “My passion for nature and drawing started in childhood, from collecting shells on the beaches of North Wales to sketching wildflowers. However, when I was PAGE 28
told Art and Biology couldn’t be studied together, I ended up on a different path. I studied for 8 years to become a Clinical Neuropsychologist and worked in the NHS for over 20 years. I specialised in brain injury and stroke rehabilitation and even then, used creative
From Clinical Neuropsychologist to artist, Emma's passion for creative ideas have helped in both fields ideas to help develop strategies for patients. Sometimes I hand drew pictures for patients who found it easier to remember information if it was presented visually!” “Later, with two young children and an introduction to picture books, I felt there was a gap for younger children, so I created one in my spare time. This led to the first book of the Little Nature Explorers series, The Worm, which was published whilst still working. I was then asked to complete the illustrations
for a gardening book which gave me the confidence and motivation to take the leap. I handed in my notice to start my new journey.” Following on from the successful Spring Fair, Emma signed a licensing partnership with Smart Fox Gifting for the Little Nature Explorers and I Love Birds brand. Leading UK homewares and gift company, My Gifts Trade, developed the Country Range of kitchen products, designed to bring humour to your country kitchen. 2020 saw the launch of Materia Rica’s stunning Country Life collection of eco-friendly, walnut jewellery. Based in Barcelona, Materia Rica brought Emma’s wildflower, toadstool, bee and watering can illustrations to life as pendants and earrings. “It is amazing that I have come full circle and ended up doing what I have always loved. Now that Mel is on board, we are looking for new licensing partners to expand the Licensing Programme into lots of other product categories, so please don’t hesitate to get in touch!” said Emma. TOTAL BRAND LICENSING
ART & DESIGN With over 25 years’ experience Elizabeth Stirling Designs is uniquely placed to provide images that will appeal to a wide range of consumers. As they look to the horizon and glimpse the future hope for design and manufacturing they recognise they must be prepared for exciting times ahead. As the world emerges from the grip of the pandemic there will be undoubtedly a huge pent up demand for retail and consumers will be looking for creative and inspiring design in all product areas. With a group of talented artists Elizabeth Stirling Designs covers all emerging trends whilst ensuring that their artwork is always commercially appealing to retailers. Until they can meet again in person individuals can schedule a virtual meeting to view Elizabeth Stirling Designs' latest collection.
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ART & DESIGN Jewel Branding & Licensing (JBL) is proud to highlight the designers and artists of color in their portfolio including illustrators and influencers Kendra Dandy of Bouffants & Broken Hearts, and Jessi Raulet of EttaVee, as well as celebrity interior designer and TV personality, Nikki Chu. In celebration of Black History Month, Jewel is thrilled to announce some exciting upcoming launches for 2021. For their limited-edition artist series, Athleta joined forces with Kendra Dandy on a fun collection of masks and t-shirt. Kendra’s art is featured on the home page of Walmart.com in celebration of Black History Month. American Greetings has partnered with Kendra to launch an endcap collection of greeting cards slated for release at a major national retailer later this year. There has been international growth including new back-to-school collections with partners Vadobag, Stationary Team, Bagtrotter, Vivat, and Top Creative, all launching across Europe. Popular Dutch online kids clothing retailer, Kleertjes, is slated to launch an exclusive Bouffants kids’ clothing collection through licensee Retail Tribes. And personalized online card retailer Moonpig is refreshing Kendra’s collection of cards with some new sassy designs in the UK. Additionally, Kendra has signed with Chinese subagent Zenulla, who is working on key promotional and product opportunities in China. 2021 will be a big year for EttaVee! LANG
is releasing a new EttaVee collection of calendars, stationery and gift products that will be available at retailers including Barnes & Noble and Walgreens. American Greetings has partnered with Jessi to create a collection of greeting cards that will be featured on an endcap in a major national retailer. This summer, Fit & Fresh is launching a collection of Etta Vee lunch bags and lunch kits at key retailers in time for back-to-school. Riley Blake will release a collection of apparel fabric in collaboration with Fabric.com. And Tervis has a collection of drinkware available on Tervis. com and Target.com. Stay tuned for a big announcement about a brand new collaboration for EttaVee in the home space slated to launch this summer! Follow Jessi to learn more closer to the date. Nikki Chu Home continues to be a top selling name in home fashions and décor with a beautiful line of rugs, bedding, decorative pillows, throws and wall art. She recently launched a new collection of home products exclusively through Walmart.com. York Wallcoverings has been recently signed to develop a unique collection of peel & stick wallpaper, slated to launch later this year. Additionally, Nikki recently signed with a leading home décor partner and will be introducing home décor accessories and accent furniture later this year. Nikki’s wall art continues to sell out at all major retailers, and most recently she was profiled on FineArtCanvas.com.
“I feel fortunate to be partnered with Jewel Branding & Licensing because they understand the importance of highlighting a diverse portfolio of designers,” said Nikki Chu. “The success of my line has been years in the making and I’m thrilled that retailers and consumers are committed to amplifying black female designers like me,” said Nikki Chu.
Debra Valencia and her licensing partner Spectrum Home Textiles have announced the release of all new collections of Shibori designed bedding. The deal was created by The Brand Liaison, the exclusive licensing agent for designer Debra Valencia. Debra has spent years mastering the ancient Japanese hand dyed textile tradition of Shibori, studying under the guidance of a master instructor in Japan. Debra personally created dozens of handmade textiles incorporating a variety of techniques, including handcut stencils, sewing, folding, binding and clamping, her textile works are one of a kind originals. Select prints from Valencia’s Shibori Collection can be found on stationery, bedding and other home goods. The entire collection is available for licensing across all product categories. Typically used only for textiles in the past, the Shibori collections are on trends as surface art for dinnerware, home accents, wall décor, social stationery, paper goods, craft, apparel, fashion accessories, bath/beauty products and more. PAGE 30
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ART & DESIGN The year 2021 will mark the 40-year anniversary of the Giordano family’s success in the art licensing industry. Greg and Bob Giordano have expanded, developed, and adapted their art and designs to fit the ever changing consumer market, while still maintaining a sense of loyalty to the traditional style in which Joseph Giordano, their father, brought to the field in the early 1980s. Joe Giordano started licensing his artwork under “Giordano Studios”. Before starting his own art-licensing business, Joe was a staff illustrator for a top greeting card publisher in New York City. After college, Bob joined the business in 1984, and after several years as a successful wildlife painter, Greg also joined the family business. Throughout the late 1980s and 1990s, Giordano Studios established themselves as leaders in the field. The brand was famously known for its nostalgic, classic and whimsical Santa designs, which were featured on a myriad of products, including holiday stockings and tree skirts, collectible plates and figurines, station-
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ary and plush. Joe’s Santa Claus designs were extremely influential to both of his sons. “Our father’s Santa Claus’ inspired us in everything we do and create, even to this day. Our art remains warm and traditional” explains younger son Bob. In the early 2000s, Greg and Bob took over the business side of the operation, allowing Joe to focus solely on creating new art. By that time, the company had created over 2,000 original designs, and had licensed designs with over 500 manufacturers worldwide. Both sons continued to be an integral part of the company, working closely with licensees and manufacturers at both the business and creative levels. In 2002, Greg branched out onto his own and established himself as the owner and operator of Greg & Company. Currently working with more than 75 licensees globally, Greg continues to expand his collection of art styles and subjects, and the latest designs feature adaptations of vintage cars, trucks, and motorcycles. Greg continues to have success with a multitude of other styles and subjects, including
vintage farm and patriotic themes. His designs have been licensed for various home accents, including blankets, wall décor, garden flags, tin signs, and pillows, as well as jigsaw puzzles, calendars, bookmarks, t-shirts, mugs, greeting cards and other stationery products. Over the years, Bob stepped into his new role of Managing Operator of Giordano Studios, and he has embraced the foundation and traditions on which the company was built, while continuing to expand and further develop his own unique style. Today, Giordano Studios continues to be widely recognized for their original puppies and kittens art, as well as their holiday and Christmas designs. The designs portray a variety of themes suitable for a multitude of products, As Greg enthusiastically shared, “I’m looking forward to creating more art for my licensees, and also expanding my base of licensing partners by further developing my art archives and subjects. We’re excited to see what the next several decades of Giordano brings to the art licensing world."
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ART & DESIGN
Established in 1990, MGL is one of the world’s leading art licensing companies. Representing the work of over 50 artists and designers. With a portfolio of over 10,000 images, MGL prides itself in representing stunning imagery covering a variety including wildlife, floral, landscapes, patterns and vintage. MGL imagery is licensed for merchandise ranging from Arts & Crafts (diamond painting, paint by numbers, paper crafts), Paper Products (greeting cards, calendars and stationery), Textile (apparel, home, fabrics), Homeware & Gifts (mugs and novelties), Wall Art and more. As well as providing existing artwork, MGL also offers a customised service to either PAGE 32
adapt existing imagery or create new, bespoke designs. The company has a dedicated and experienced sales team who, understanding
the needs of manufacturers, retailers and their customers, are happy to help with the decision process and advise on trends.
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ART & DESIGN The Frida Kahlo licensing program continues to grow substantially, announces Barcelona based Art Ask Agency despite these challenging times, and has launched its latest Frida Kahlo collection launch of licensed product in collaboration with Polish cultural retailer, EMPIK. Good news for Frida fans is that EMPIK stores are currently open in Poland as they are in the bookstore category of retailers. The range has 48 different SKU’s in the categories of gifts, bags, accessories, stationery and home décor. A colourful range embracing the iconic lifestyle brand Frida Kahlo that appeals to consumers of all ages, including the youngest segment. “I want it all! Empik have done an amazing job on this range and I’m confident their customers will snap up these irresistible products,” says Maria Strid, Owner Art Ask Agency. “Frida Kahlo is a character that needs no introduction. The Mexican painter is a colourful bird and an extremely expressive personality
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that has become an icon of feminism and a symbol of charisma and bold expression of her views. We were inspired by the art and personality of one of the greatest artists of the twentieth century, and have brought this to our
customers with our Frida Kahlo collection,” comments Ewa Ziemnicka, Category Manager, EMPIK. Art Ask Agency are preparing for a launch of a second licensed collection with another brand from their roster in the of March.
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ART & DESIGN Patricia Nash Designs recently announced the appointment of Evolution USA as licensing and brand management agency. Total Art Licensing caught up with Travis and Patricia to see where they plan to take the partnership... Tell us about the partnership between Patricia Nash and Evolution? Travis Rutherford, Partner & Chief Revenue Officer for Evolution USA: Evolution and Patricia Nash Designs originally connected during the Festival of Licensing last year when Patricia Nash, COO Jennifer was investigating qualified licensing agencies to assist in the strategic brand expansion for certain classifications outside the existing core product offering. Evolution was seeking additional clients in the fashion brand vertical and after having several discussions and Zoom meetings, it became clear to both sides that Evolution's full suite of licensing services and brand management capabilities could deliver on the opportunity for Patricia Nash to successfully enter the licensing arena. Evolution provides an end-to-end solution to effectively manage the entire licensing process on behalf of the Patricia Nash brand, which includes the necessary market analysis, licensee identification, partner due diligence, retail development, operational support, product approvals, legal, finance and contract management. Patricia will maintain a leadership
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position in directing all the creative execution of every licensee's assortment, maintaining a cohesive look in the market, regardless of the category or partner. Both firms are working closely to realize the opportunity with the first product estimated to come to market in early 2022, while maintaining strict quality controls and best in class brand management protocols. How do you plan to evolve the brand together? Travis Rutherford: The Evolution USA and Patrica Nash Design teams are working closely to prioritize and focus on the most important classifications first that will become the backbone of the brand expansion program. Home furnishings, room decor, housewares and tabletop to name just a few. Once initial core products are in market and performing to expectation, additional sub-classifications will be licensed and the brand expanded accordingly. We are initially focusing on getting the North American market right before turning our focus to any international territory expansion. Concurrent with seeking qualified manufacturing partners, we are also engaging in discussions with senior leadership at certain key
retailers who sell the Patricia Nash core product, to ensure we are considering their needs for their specific customer demographic. This effort may in fact provide a direct to retail licensing program to materialize, which in such case would be supported by key retail suppliers versus a traditional licensee led program. What categories are you looking to branch into? Patricia Nash: The brand is inspired by travel, memories, vintage craftsmanship and a sense of family so we’re looking to natural category extensions that preserve the integrity and quality of the brand. Newly licensed categories will include a broad assortment of indoor and outdoor home furnishings and housewares, tabletop and drinkware, women’s dresses and resort wear, women’s swimsuits and cover-ups, sleepwear and slippers, and an extended line of accessories including watches, sunglasses, gifts and candles, stationery and paper goods and pet accessories.” Which areas do you see synonymous with the brand? Patricia Nash: Entertaining, whether in the kitchen, outdoors or inside living areas. Cooking meals with family as the brand is family-centric and all things travel. The brand was founded in part because of my wanderlust and love of travel. What has the pandemic meant for business, and have you noticed any interesting trends over the last 12 months? Patricia Nash: Since the pandemic, people are obviously spending more time at home, so more energy and resources are being poured into home décor and home improvements. There is a focus on comfort. Travel is still happening, but with more weekend trips. As far as running the business, all of our work lives have changed to accommodate virtual meetings with staff, vendors, and customers. The ability to adapt to change has been critical. TOTAL BRAND LICENSING
ART & DESIGN Yellow House celebrates 10 years this year. In its first year Yellow House licensed designs to Almanac, now part of The Great British Card Company, by enamel artist Janine Partington so creating the range Copper Tree. This range is still going. The art editor at Almanac had such foresight to realise that these simple designs could be translated from enamel panels onto greeting cards, using a copper foil treatment to echo the enamelling process so successfully. Janine's work has been licensed onto product for the National Trust and also on notebooks and journals for Flametree Publishing - there is something about the simplicity of the design and the limited colour palette that really appeals. Not everyone is aware that Yellow House also has access to a great archive of retro photography. In fact this has been a mainstay of the business for many years. These children bringing home the tree is one of our most regularly licensed images.
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Yellow House has also represented Glasgow Museums for many years. Their collection is so wide ranging, covering tapestries, old masters, decorative papers, shipping posters, fashion plates, photography and of course an extensive collection of Charles Rennie Mackintosh. Yellow House comments: "It has been a privilege to have the opportunity to make their archives more widely known." Other standout licenses have been Suzy Taylor for colouring books and quilting, Claire Winteringham for puzzles, cards, books and advent calendars, Spencer Wilson for many book projects, calendars and cycling merchandise, Mary Stubberfield for being the company’s go to Cat artist, Tiffany Lynch, Jane Askey and Emma Brownjohn for cards and wall art, Gillian Martin for ceramics, tins, wall art. Liane Payne for cards calendars, and tins. Nancy Nicholson for cards, fabric and tins. Paul Thurlby's work has been licensed onto ceramics, apparel, cards, books, and more.
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ART & DESIGN
Portfolio Select is an art licensing agency based in Hertfordshire, UK, representing talented and award winning artists and illustrators. The company currently represents around 50 artists and the portfolios contain over 27,000 designs in every style. Portfolio Select is an art resource to clients for greeting cards, gift wrap, gift bags, social stationery, tableware, prints/posters, tins, packaging, puzzles, fabrics, tableware, craft products and giftware. Company Director David Seddon has established the business to be a leader in Customer Service with great communication. David and Lucy (his co-director) work closely with the artists, providing good feedback, guidance and support. Ginny, Paula and Katie also provide the much needed 'back office support'. A great team!
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CELEBRITY
Building a license with a difference In a project that is a first for the Russian Federation, Brand4Rent has agreed a license for the Tretyakov Gallery for works of art by modernist Russian artist Mikhail Vrubel are used in the construction of a residential complex in the heart of Moscow. The Tretyakov Gallery is the foremost depository of Russian fine art in the world with history going back to 1856. Today, the collection houses more than 130,000 exhibitors. A key artist in the Tretyakov collection is Mikhail Vrubel, a 19th–20th century Russian painter who worked in all genres of art, including painting, graphics, decorative sculpture, and theatrical art. The developers of the new residential complex, entitled Vrubel 4, have acquired the license to use images of twelve works by Vrubel throughout the new development. The list of works used includes well known pieces such as Swan Princess, Demon Sitting, Princess of Dreams as well as a number of lesser-known paintings. The 4.6 billion Rubles project is scheduled for completion by the fourth quarter of next year. The residential block, which is being developed by Inteco as licensees, will include 200 apartments of varying sizes over eight to twelve PAGE 38
floors. The development will also include a private kindergarten and medical office and common spaces include playgrounds and recreation areas as well as patios and gardens. The design of the public spaces for Vrubel 4 will be undertaken by the Sundukovy Sisters Studio, again using works by Vrubel as their inspiration. The studio has created décor for hotels
and restaurants in Europe, the US, Middle East and Asia. The development is situated in the Sokol district of Moscow, appropriately near the village of artists which is a Moscow landmark. Commenting on the development, Denis Kulakov, General Director of the Brand4Rent Licensing Agency said, "The Tretyakov Gallery
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ART & DESIGN licensing program provides opportunities for creating original and interesting partnerships. The Vrubel,4 residential complex is a unique project that combines classic and modern architectural solutions. The versatility of Mikhail Vrubel's work will be reflected in the entire concept of the new project and create an original atmosphere of Russian Art Nouveau. This is the first example of this kind of cooperation in Russia and it opens up new horizons for the development of the Tretyakov gallery's licensing program." The Curator of Special Projects at Inteco, Irina Korshunova continued, “"The location of the future house on 4 Vrubel street is filled with creative inspiration – very close to the historical Village of artists and the art and industrial Academy named after count S. G. Strogonov. We strive to continue the sublime atmosphere of this place, filling the architecture of the building and the visual code of the project with the charm of those eras. In the process of implementing the development, INTECO will try to tell its audience about the creative path and the best works of Mikhail Vrubel as carefully as possible, with due respect for the author's legacy. For example, the main visual code of the project is a fragment of the
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uniquely brilliant, touching and full of romantic dialectic painting The Demon Sitting. The unique mosaic technique used by the artist to lay flowers in the rays of the setting sun is striking in its picturesque richness and surprisingly relevant sound." "When you participate in a fair professional fight, winning brings real satisfaction. Getting into the top Five best premium class properties in Moscow is already good news. Vrubel 4 is surrounded by worthy competitors, in their own way each of the finalists deserves to be the first, each of these projects has its own "superpower". Our "superpower" is a unique,
largely binding location near the village of artists, which sets a special creative style in this project. Here we work on the architectural and artistic heritage of the "Moscow Art Nouveau", implement unrealized sketches in stone by Mikhail Vrubel. It is very easy to believe that the truth is in beauty." Brand4rent is a leading Russian licensing agency, founded in 2015. The agency specializes in bringing Russian and foreign brands into new categories using a licensed business model. The company offers partners a full range of services including licensing strategy development, creative resources and sales support.
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THE TEMPTING WORLD OF ROUTE 66 Brazil is the 9th largest market for licensed products in the world with retail sales of US $3.8 billion USD a year and still presents many opportunities for licensing because of the large Brazilian consumer market of 210 million inhabitants. Tempting Brands together with Ispartner, The ROUTE 66 representative in Brazil, has great news for the brand with the launch of new lines of apparel, footwear and men’s care products). For apparel and shoes, the first ROUTE 66 collection has about 120 SKUs consisting of t-shirts, shorts, polo shirts, boots and sneakers. The products will be available in major e-commerce websites and
Luciana Vitorino
major magazine chains. Specialised boutiques will also sell the ROUTE 66 new line starting in March. To explore the personal care market, where Brazil is the 2nd largest market in the world, ROUTE 66 is launching its Men’s Care line, as a complete line for hair, beard and also air fresheners that will be distributed online and also in the main barber shops, drugstores and cosmetic distributors. Luciana Vitorino, Managing Director Ispartner commented, “Tempting Brands has been a great partner in this whole process and PAGE 40
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ROUTE 66
embody the “Rock and Roll” spirit of freedom in all they do. With that sentiment in mind, they have now signed an agreement to make a donation from all the wines sold to The Blues Foundation. The Memphis based Blues Foundation preserves blues heritage, celebrates blues recording and performance, expands worldwide awareness of the blues, and ensures the future of the uniquely American art form. Tony says, “I am very proud to partner with the Torti family in support of The Blues Foundation and be able to create this selection of amazing wines with labels that carry my name. Music has been so important in my life and the chance to now help this great organization with sales of “ROUTE 66” is very exciting.”
has given us excellent support with great agility in product approval (always up to 24 hours), with the best style guide on the market with many options and also with great commercial flexibility that allows us to negotiate with any market. From small entrepreneurs to large retail chains in the DTR (Direct to Retail) model, the brand ROUTE 66 is a great brand to represent.” ‘“Finding the right partner to represent our brands has always been our main strategy to expand our distribution in various countries. We are very delighted to work with Ispartner who has proven to act fast, even in such terrible Covid times. They selected the best companies to represent ROUTE 66 in Brazil. The products with the ROUTE 66 designs look amazing with great appeal for consumers,”continued Lidia Furnica, Licensing Director at Tempting Brands.
At the recent Milano Wine Week, ROUTE 66 by Tony Moore was announced to the world with a unique tasting that also included live performances from Tony in between each wine presentation and tasting. Tony Moore is an award winning singer/songwriter and musician who has had a long and eclectic career in the music business. He has played in many bands including Cutting Crew (I Just Died In Your Arms Tonight), had solo success, toured the world countless times and continues to make and release music as well as help emerging artists develop their careers. The Torti Winery is a family run business with a proud 111 year history since 1910. It's been run by generations of the same family throughout. Current owner Dino Torti’s Father and Grandfather have previously held ownership of this prestigious Italian wine production company, and, through Dino, the legacy continues.
Established in 2008, Tempting Brands offers brands for men – ROUTE 66 and Pierre de Coubertin and for women - MarieAntoinette and for children - Hi Puppy. This year the company will launch a new brand, IMPALA which will offer licensees the opportunity to license the brand and use the 200 artworks specially designed for sports clothing and accessories.
ROUTE 66 WINE BY TONY MOORE On a different note, Italian Winery, Torti L’Eleganza del Vino and British musician Tony Moore have been collaborating over the last 12 Months and are now launching a brand new wine label under the name Route 66 Wine By Tony Moore, with a percentage from each bottle sold going to The Blues Foundation. Featuring unique labels designed by Tony and an exclusive license to use the ROUTE 66 brand, the wines bring something different and original to the marketplace. The collaboration between Tony and the Torti Family was born through a mutual love of music and desire to TOTAL BRAND LICENSING
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HERITAGE
A Place in Time
LMI Where the last year has undoubtedly proved a challenge for many institutions and museums, it has never been as important to look to brand licensing to increase awareness, maintain contact with fans and admirers, and bring in revenue where the public cannot. The licensing programmes, however, are more than just money-makers – they envelope the essence of these institutions, whose collective history spans thousands of years and every corner of the globe. Inspiring, ethical and embodying the spirit of historical impor-
Historic Royal Palaces Cole & Son PAGE 42
How Heritage Licensing Connects the Past with the Present and Future tance, here we explore some of the possibilities that abound in heritage licensing. Historic Royal Palaces is the independent charity that looks after the Tower of London, Hampton Court Palace, the Banqueting House, Kensington Palace, Kew Palace and Hillsborough Castle and Gardens. Historic Royal Palaces’ licensee, Cole & Son, has launched a new wallpaper collection for 2021, entitled Great Masters. Paying homage to the master artisans, crafts-
men and celebrated monarchs who shaped the six iconic royal residences now cared for by Historic Royal Palaces, Great Masters heralds more than 1,000 years of British heritage. From the Medieval, Tudor and Jacobean, to the Georgian and Victorian eras, Great Masters honours the unparalleled skill of architects, artists, master carvers, ironworkers, and landscape designers, whose exceptional skill and creative ingenuity continues to allure and evoke marvel to this day. The design house of Cole & Son took inspiration for each of the collection’s 17 designs from the magnificent architecture, interiors, collections and gardens of the Historic Royal Palaces sites, including Hampton Court Palace with its unique mix of Tudor and baroque style, Kensington Palace with its decorative Victorian charm and the imposing Tower of London, filled with intriguing tales of London’s medieval history. With a shared passion for preserving the past, in order to inspire the future, the licensee’s second collection with Historic Royal Palaces celebrates quintessential British history and heritage through Cole & Son’s detailed hand and unparalleled use of colour and pattern. Cole & Son have embarked on an impactful marketing campaign to support the collection, and distribution through their network of retailers and interiors specialists will be TOTAL BRAND LICENSING
HERITAGE Historic Royal Palaces Cole & Son
hugely beneficial to Historic Royal Palaces’ licensing programme. Following the Covid-19 pandemic it has been a challenging year for the charity and the support of revenue from licensed products has never been more vital to help maintain the buildings in its care. Jenny Smyth, Licensing Manager at Historic Royal Palaces says: ‘Great Masters is a stunning wallpaper collection that has really embraced the scope of inspiration the palaces have to offer. They enable consumers to bring the magnificence of these buildings and the craftsmen that created them into their own homes. Never has the support of our licensees and their customers been more important in giving the palaces a future as bright as their past, and the purchase of these wallpapers makes a vital contribution towards enabling them to stir the spirits of many generations to come.’ Marie Karlsson, Managing Director at Cole & Son: “Our second collaboration with Historic Royal Palaces is so important to us as it really captures our brand values of ‘Living PAGE 44
Art & Living History’. The inspiration we found within the palaces and their grounds was unparalleled; Great Masters is our largest collection to date with 17 designs including the masterpiece Verdure Tapestry which was entirely hand-drawn and hand-painted to scale, creating a vast verdant scene which encapsulates the whole collection. We decided to not only produce this in a traditional Cole & Son way as a non-woven paper, but also as a 100% pure silk wallcovering – a luxurious first for our Design House.” Autumn 2020 saw the beginning of a collaboration between Warner House and Royal Museums Greenwich. Inspired by a set of 19th-century constellation cards, Warner House is launching these striking prints, comprised of the 12 zodiac signs, as cushions and wallpaper. Sourced from the museum’s collection at Greenwich, the historical significance of the designs aligns perfectly with Warner’s extraordinary heritage and legacy. Royal Museums Greenwich (RMG) is comprised of the National Maritime Museum, Royal Observatory, Cutty Sark and the Queen’s House, all located within the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Maritime Greenwich in London. RMG is the place to discover sea and space exploration, pioneering architecture, internationally-renowned art and British history. It is the ‘home of time’ and the world-famous Meridian Line, and houses the world’s largest maritime collection. The collection of over four million objects tell inspiring stories of exploration and adventure across the sea, ships, stars and time. Brands can collaborate with RMG and gain access to the exceptional collections for inspiration to create unique, innovative and beautifully designed products in association with the prestigious heritage brand. The licensing programme covers fashion, gifts, home, stationery, and publishing across a diverse range of product categories, from telescopes and toys to stationery and clothing. Other new product launches coming soon include PlayPress’s pirate cove in their signature biodegradable and recyclable plastic free play series, and
Kite clothing’s third RMG-inspired range of planet-friendly children’s clothing for SS21. 2021 will also see the launch of Ecliptic, an astronomy-themed board game from Inside the Box, as well as the Royal Observatory’s first brand licenced telescope with Celestron. RMG holds a rich collection of maps, charts, globes and atlases from the 15th century to the present day, including over 100,000 historical sea charts and maps and the most significant collection of globes in the world. RMG also holds one million ship plans and historical scientific instruments that document 800 years of astronomy, navigation and timekeeping. Highlights include a rarely-seen map of the moon by H. Percy Wilkins, John Harrison’s famous navigational timepieces of the 1700s, historical astrolabes and constellation cards, plus portraits of well-known Astronomers Royal and clock makers. RMG’s breathtaking astrophotography collection is compiled from the annual Insight Investment Astronomy Photographer of the Year competition as well as images from the Royal Observatory’s state-of-the-art astrographic telescope. Total Brand Licensing caught up with Declan McCarthy, Head of Publishing and Licensing, and Carrie Hickman, Publishing and Licensing Coordinator at the Ashmolean about the vast array of brand licensing opportunities
on offer. “The Ashmolean is the world’s first public museum – opening its doors in 1683,” said Declan. “It is also the world’s first university museum and has an incredibly long and interesting history!” How has life been during the pandemic? “Challenging, as it has for everyone. But TOTAL BRAND LICENSING
HERITAGE being a world-class institution within the University of Oxford means that we have an absolute treasure trove of artefacts to be explored, and we want to give potential licensees a real insight into the unbelievable amount of possibility that our collections can inspire.” What are you particularly excited about? “The excitement came at the beginning of 2020 when we signed with Ian Downes and Start Licensing. Ian has just right expertise as a partner to bring the Ashmolean licensing programme to its full realisation. As just a sample of our collections, the Ashmolean houses 300,000 coins and medals, 900 casts, Western and Eastern Art, the department of antiquities, Greek pottery, Dutch Master oil paintings and it is like travelling on a tour of the history of the world to explore these collections – which range in date from 800BC to the present day.” When asked about some of the pieces within the museum that Declan and Carrie find the most fascinating, there were almost too many to mention. However, the lantern taken from Guy Fawkes shortly after he was apprehended
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licensees and the 1.3 million objects in the collection, we offer a fantastic and unique brand licensing experience.” The Ashmolean already works with partners such as Woodmansterne, Flame Tree Publishing, Fox & Chave and The Oxford Artisan Distillery. “We are delighted to be working with Start Licensing, raising awareness of the collection and building upon new opportunities in licensing across all categories. In addition, licensees (when restrictions are relaxed) will have unprecedented access to curatorial departments, study rooms and collections.” before he could detonate gunpowder in Parliament, 1605, as well as the Messiah violin made at the height of Stradivari’s popularity in 1716 are just two examples of the diverse and intricate historical artefacts housed by the museum. “The Ashmolean really has so much untapped potential to offer to the right partners. We are at the ‘fledgling’ stage of our licensing programme, so there is much to offer. We welcome new ideas and, working with
The term Heritage & Museum Licensing is a familiar one and has helped to build some classic long term licensing programmes. LMI has assembled a portfolio of classic Heritage brands some of which have been developed into global licensing programmes over a period of time and continue to expand. These include: British Motor Heritage These classic automobile marques include Austin, Morris, Austin-Healey, MG, Nuffield and Rover.
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HERITAGE LMI
Over six years now GIC Japan have marketed the Rover bicycle and Codemasters are featuring the MG Metro 6R4 in their series of Dirt rally games. Microsoft continue to feature a number of the BMH marques in their Woodstock computer games and a recent USA signing is Michael Miller Fabrics; fabrics by the yard illustrated here. BSA “The most popular motorcycle in the world” was founded in 1903 and an extensive classic Brand Deck has been developed resulting in a broad number of licensees including Poetic Brands for their BSA heritage T-shirt and apparel collection. Highclere Castle ‘’The real Downton Abbey” has capitalised on its TV and movie exposure with programmes including Silent Night group for bedding for the UK, USA & China, Gascoigne Designs for furniture and a range of dress perfumes, diffusers & towels from SD Biotechnologies in Korea. Highclere Castle have designed and marketed a highly awarded unique gin under the Highclere Castle name and a Highclere Castle fine Cigar made for them in Nicaragua which has also won awards in the USA. International Space Archives (ISA) Looking into space is also like looking into the past and ISA is the perfect place to start. With its vast library of images, photographs and 249 Mission patches (including the newly released SpaceX DM-2 mission patch & Mars Rover Perseverance) from many of PAGE 46
the world’s space programmes including but not limited to NASA it is no wonder the list of licensees continues to grow. Leading categories include accessories, apparel, tech and BTS and we cannot wait for Hinterland Water Rokit who are set to launch a ‘Water Rokit Edu–Kit’ space and education. Schönbrunn Palace You can find ‘The Neptune Fountain’ at the foot of the Gloriette hill situated amongst the roaming gardens of the latest addition to the LMI portfolio… Schönbrunn Palace is a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site. Schönbrunn Palace is one of the most important architectural, cultural, and historic monuments in Austria. The history of the palace and its vast gardens spans over 300 years, reflecting the changing tastes, interests, and aspirations of successive Habsburg monarchs. The Schönbrunn Palace in its present form was built and remodelled during the 1740–50s during the reign of empress Maria Theresa. Franz Joseph, the longest-reigning emperor of Austria, was born at Schönbrunn Palace and spent a great deal of his life there. It has been a major tourist attraction since the mid-1950s. The palace and extensive grounds are laced with history and inspiration for licensing opportunities. The licensing programme is spearheaded by REWE in Austria who have had an excellent response in the market to the recent release of their Schönbrunn collection including Wine, Sparkling Wine and Frizzante. Shakespeare Birthplace Trust The Shakespeare Birthplace Trust is the independent charity that cares for the world’s greatest Shakespeare heritage in his hometown of Stratford-upon-Avon. Licensing with the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust offers a unique brand endorsement and a wealth of inspiration in their outstanding collections. Discover Shakespeare’s world through unique objects and works of art, rare books and the words that have inspired the world for over 400 years. A virtual and sensory experience is under development for Spain & Portugal with MADHOUSE Brands & Malls SL. Apparel, accessories, footwear, and home textiles have been granted to Ermoda Tekstil. As Hamlet quoted ‘The apparel oft proclaims
the man’. The mission of the University of Cambridge is to contribute to society through education, learning and research at the highest international level. In addition to its education and research excellence, there is growing interest in its amazing range of museums and libraries, and its botanic garden. They cover classical and modern art and artifacts, polar exploration, anthropology, zoology, geology, botany and the history of science. These are continuing places of cutting edge research in addition to being free to visit for students, schools and families. The University of Cambridge has a wholly owned subsidiary to manage its commercial rights called FME Ltd. Led by Len Dunne, a licensing and marketing veteran, FME is transforming how the university is managing its trademark rights and assets to generate income streams to support its museums. FME is unique in the world of universities – Cambridge
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HERITAGE NHM
it has in-house strategic marketing, graphic and product design capabilities and its own channels of distribution including four retail units in Cambridge, a hugely successfully webstore called CuratingCambridge.com, a wholesale division that sells greeting cards and stationery inspired by its collections and of course, licensing. It creates its own retail friendly brands, tests them in their own retail and online channels and only when it has traction, does it take them to the broader market for licensing. A great example of FME’s innovation during COVID was its take on the pandemic by adapting works of art from the Fitzwilliam Museum to show what social distancing might look like through the ages. In addition to being a media sensation the Fitzwilliam
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Masterpieces 2020 Edition range has, with the support of its UK licensing agent The Point.1888, spawned a licensing programme covering greeting cards, print on demand, stationery, gin, homewares, apparel and, of course, face masks. Working with The Point.1888, the plan for FME to roll out more licensing programmes both for the University brand and also its extensive museum collection assets. The Natural History Museum licensing team is on a mission; to engage the widest possible audience through its licensing programme in order to create advocates for the planet and to encourage a love of the natural world. Recent launches such as their gender neutral childrenswear collection with UNIQLO or their wall print collection with Fairtrade and sustainable fashion label Saint + Sofia are just a few examples of the way this strategy is being realised. These efforts have not gone unnoticed with the Brand & Licensing Lifestyle Awards recognising the team not only for their eco-friendly paint range Colour by Nature with Farrow & Ball but also as 2020’s Best Heritage Institution - a first for the Museum. Colour by Nature was also recognised at the Licensing Awards winning in the Best Retail Marketing Initiative category. With a significant number of exciting launches set
for 2021, the team are busy finding new ways to get their message out. This year has been incredibly challenging for the Museum and the heritage sector as a whole. The Museum looks forward to welcoming visitors in 2021 to the hotly anticipated exhibition Fantastic Beasts: The Wonder of Nature which opened in December. Explore the links between animals of the natural world, mythical creatures and their fictional counterparts from the Wizarding World. This is just one of the many ways in which the Natural History Museum is determined to harness its collections to reach new audiences. Another example is the launch of the licensing team’s new style guide, The Botanicals Guide, that celebrates many of the beautiful and scientifically important botanical artworks held within the Museum’s collection, utilising them within a fresh, contemporary context to appeal to a modern audience. Like all style guides in the programme, this new addition aims to highlight the wonderful diversity of the natural world and to tap into the huge cross generational appeal that the Museum undeniably enjoys. With consumers more astute than ever, the Museum’s licensing programme is uniquely positioned to offer products with an historic context and a firm connection to nature. The licensing programme was incredibly fortunate as all 2020 launches were able to go ahead as planned despite lockdown measures, seeing collections with The Royal Mint, Finisterre and UNIQLO all performing beyond expectations. The licensing team were also lucky enough to continue working throughout lockdown, which has enabled them to continue to plan and develop upcoming launches looking forward to 2021 and beyond, as well as supporting existing licensees through a very difficult year. Another exciting development was the launch of the Wildlife Photographer of the Year licensing programme announced at this year’s Festival of Licensing show. Another string to their bow, this beautiful and prestigious brand showcases the very best in nature photography and uses the uniquely emotive power of photography to move hearts and minds. Having already signed Portico Designs to produce calendars, there are numerous other conversations underway and much more to come.
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CELEBRITY Total Brand Licensing spoke to Lynne Lugosi Sparks, CEO of LUGOSI LLC and granddaughter of Bela Lugosi – about the icon who is Dracula and the Bela Lugosi brand
“I Am Dracula...” Can you give us some history of Bela Lugosi, his rise to fame and worldwide recognition? Bela Lugosi’s body of work is impressive. His stage appearances in Budapest alone total well over 200 productions and he appeared in 48 stage productions in the United States. His filmography consists of 113 screen performances, including 23 films in Hungary and Germany. But it was his portrayal of the vampire from Bram Stoker’s gothic masterpiece that made him a cultural icon. Bela Lugosi was born in 1882 in Lugos, Hungary (now Lugoj, Romania), an area which, during his childhood, was part of the region known as…. Transylvania. At the age of twelve, he left home to pursue his dream of being an actor. He rose in the ranks on stages across Hungary and evenPAGE 48
tually became a member of the National Theater, playing a wide range of roles from Shakespeare’s characters to Jesus Christ in The Passion. During WWI, Bela fought in the Hungarian Army on the Russian front and was wounded three times. He returned to his career on the stage, and in 1917 began acting in Hungarian silent films. Lugosi was instrumental in the formation of the National Trade Union of Actors, and during the political turmoil of 1919 he was among many in Hungary’s artist community who were forced to flee the country under threat of death. Bela continued acting in films in Germany before coming to the United States in 1920. In 1927 he was cast as the lead role in the Broadway stage production of Dracula. It was
there, on the stage, that Bela Lugosi created his unique interpretation of the character: the make-up, the mode of dress, the mannerisms. Along with his hypnotizing gaze and distinct accent, this became the characterization which made him a star. He brought his portrayal to the screen in the 1931 Universal film, which is credited as the catalyst for horror as a popular film genre. Lugosi’s portrayal of Count Dracula set the standard for all future interpretations of the character. He personified evil while romanticizing the vampire—Bela Lugosi is Dracula. (BelaLugosi.com) How long has his name been a brand, and how long has there been a licensing program around him? Our licensing program has an interesting history. In 1963, my dad, Bela G. Lugosi, discovered that Universal Studios had embarked on a program to license his father’s image on merchandise. He filed suit against the studio in what has become the landmark case, Lugosi v. Universal Pictures. His suit maintained that the characterization of Dracula created by Bela Lugosi was not the property of Universal Studios, but rather the property of Bela Lugosi and his heirs. There was no precedent in this area, and consequently the case was in the courts for 16 years. The favorable result finally came in 1984 with the enactment of the California Celebrity Rights Act by the California Legislature, making the right to exploit the name and likeness of a celebrity a property right which survives his or her death. Soon after the enactment of the California law, Bela G. Lugosi began a licensing program which enabled the Lugosi family to both protect Bela Lugosi’s name and likeness and extend his legacy through quality, approved merchandise. Bela Lugosi is more than a celebrity likeness, he is a brand embodying all things horror. Although we have been licensing Bela Lugosi’s name and likeness for commercial use for many years, we began exhibiting as a brand at the Licensing TOTAL BRAND LICENSING
CELEBRITY Expo in 2016. LUGOSI LLC retains exclusive management of the rights of publicity of Bela Lugosi and owns the trademarks and copyrights associated with his name, likeness, voice and signature. Can you give examples of some of the licensing deals you have signed? Bela Lugosi as Dracula is a pop culture icon and his popularity spans a wide range of interests and groups. We have licensing deals in place for a diverse range of products including: apparel, posters, statues, action figures, bobbleheads, puzzles, comics, a graphic novel, skateboards, guitars, masks, costumes, fine art, entertainment projects, wine, beer, coffee, and even a themed hotel room. We are fortunate to work with great people and great companies. I am pleased to highlight our long-time partnership with Trick or Treat Studios with whom we collaborated to produce a replica of Bela Lugosi’s screen-worn Count Dracula cape. This beautiful piece was created using a pattern provided by the Lugosi family crafted from the original cape in meticulous detail, using fabrics that closely resemble the original. This is the garment that most symbolizes Bela Lugosi as Dracula, and we are excited for fans to be able to own a replica of this historic piece. Another one of our special licenses is with ESP Guitars for a limited series of Bela Lugosi guitars featuring original artwork and specialty guitar cases. Bela Lugosi has had a substantial impact in the world of music and he has a large fan base in the genre. We are proud to feature a replica of Kirk Hammett’s custom designed White Zombie guitar as part of our licensed series with ESP. What makes LUGOSI LLC unique? As CEO of LUGOSI LLC, I manage the rights to my grandfather’s name and likeness through our legacy projects and merchandising program. Our company’s mission is to promote and extend the legacy of Bela Lugosi and we have the unique opportunity to curate a list of licensees that we feel further this mission. We make it a priority to work closely with each licensee to ensure our officially licensed products capture the spirit of Bela Lugosi and pay tribute to his memory. What are your aims for the next year, with TOTAL BRAND LICENSING
the brand? As the exclusive licensors of Bela Lugosi, LUGOSI LLC would like to increase awareness of the Bela Lugosi brand and expand our licensing program internationally. Bela Lugosi has fans all over the world! Obviously Bela Lugosi is a name that carries huge weight with certain audiences – are you also planning on targeting a younger audience too? We are always supportive of events and products that introduce new fans to Bela Lugosi, the original Dracula. Across the world annual tributes during Halloween are paid to Lugosi’s famous portrayal with screenings of Dracula and his other horror and science fiction films, and he is referenced in all forms of media year-round. It is quite amazing when one considers that this has been the case every year since he appeared on the silver screen 90 years ago and first uttered the words, “I am Dracula. I bid you, welcome.” Widely considered the face of classic horror,
Bela Lugosi will continue to be recognized by future generations. We look forward to entering into partnerships that will enable us to offer products to the younger generation, including products featuring a more whimsical Bela Lugosi as Dracula character geared to our very youngest fans. What areas of licensing and brand extension are you looking to branch into? We are very interested in pursuing licensing deals for games and digital merchandise. We would also like to expand our list of licenses for seasonal Halloween products. In our efforts to pay tribute to Bela Lugosi, the man, we envision a Bela Lugosi signature lifestyle line which will embody the Golden Age of Hollywood—menswear, shoes, hats, cigars, fragrances, furniture and home décor. In addition, following the success of our limited edition Malbec, we are looking for partnerships for new releases of Bela Lugosi wines. There are so many possibilities! We are very excited for the future of the Bela Lugosi brand and LUGOSI LLC. PAGE 49
FASHION
Winners and Losers of Lockdown
By Matt French
It is hard to think of the global pandemic in terms of winners and losers, as life has changed in so many ways. However, the necessary restrictions enacted to halt the spread of Covid 19, have led some brands to thrive while others struggled. Online retail boom It’s no secret that eyewatering growth has occurred in some areas over the last year. With high streets all but closed during lockdown, more people turned to online retailers than ever before. November 2020 saw monthly online retail sales in the UK jump above £3.2bn, having not been above £2.3bn for any month since January 2016. One of the biggest winners of this rush online was global colossus Amazon, who reported that UK sales rose by 51% in 2020, with the company making £19.4bn. Meanwhile, with uncertainty everywhere, it’s understandable that consumers were looking for bargains. eBay was one of the biggest beneficiaries of this trend, with sales of used goods in the UK rising 30% during the first lockdown alone (between March and June). As seen on screen fashion and food Online fashion retailers benefited from people not being able to go and use any physical changing rooms. Very.co.uk reported its annu-
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al revenues surpassed £2bn for the first time, while ASOS posted pre-tax profits of £142.1 million for the year to 31 August, up an impressive 329% from a year earlier. While essential supermarkets remained open throughout the pandemic, many people chose to avoid in-person shopping all together and bought their groceries online Instead. This led the big supermarket brands to post big profits and move to capitalise on their online sales. Tesco had to create some 20,000 new permanent roles to support the exceptional growth of its online business. ALDI and Morrisons similarly had to hire thousands of new staff to cope with online demand, and even Iceland – who had a relatively minor online customer base pre-lockdown – saw demand rise by 300% and so took on an extra 3,000 staff. Deliver-woo-hoo While online retailers boomed, it made sense that delivery companies would also see increased revenues. Delivery brand DPD was one of the big winners, and the company announed it was to invest £200m to allow it to meet the demand for its next-day service. Takeaway and food delivery brands also benefited from the convenience they offered while people missed going out to eat at their favourite restaurants. Deliveroo had posted a warning
that it was on the verge of bankruptcy during 2020, but that was before the surge in demand for takeaway food during the lockdowns led to its revenues rising 62% to £771.8m. Pizza giant Domino’s also created 6,000 new jobs. Childrens’ entertainers As parents searched online for ways to keep their children entertained at home, the toys and games sector experienced growth of 8% during 2020. The games and puzzles category
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fared particularly well, with sales up 31% yearon-year. Mattel, LEGO and MGA were all big winners in the run up to Christmas 2020, as they were behind the ‘must haves’ of the year, including Barbie Dreamhouse, L.O.L Surprise! OMG Remix Doll, and the LEGO Harry Potter Advent Calendar. High streets change forever In stark contrast to the online boom, high streets up and down the country faced an existential crisis. Their lifeblood was cut with all but essential retailers forced to close through the lockdowns, and many brands that had been a part of daily life for UK shoppers for decades sadly disappeared from town centres. Mothercare was the first big brand casualty of the pandemic, shutting all its UK stores
after almost 60 years. TM Lewin had been a high street presence even longer (since 1898), but the formal wear brand closed its 66 shops and moved business online. Dixons Carphone also shut its 531 Carphone Warehouse UK outlets to become a solely online trader. More recently, department store brand Debenhams went into administration in November and has said it will shut all its stores by March this year. However, it was the collapse of the Arcadia Group which will arguably leave the biggest dent on UK high streets. The many familiar brands that make up the group are either set to close or have been bought out and moved online. These include ASOS’ £295m purchase of the Topshop, Topman, Miss Selfridge and HIIT brands, while another online fashion brand, Boohoo, will take over Dorothy Perkins, Wallis and Burton for £25m, putting over 15,000 jobs at risk. No leisure or tourism Understandably, the biggest losers from lockdown also included established leisure and tourism brands. Cineworld closed all of its theatres in the UK (and US) in October, before securing a financial lifeline worth £560m to help it through the coronavirus pandemic. The UK tourism industry didn’t fare any better, with the World Travel and Tourism Council predicting that the UK could lose £22bn in spending as global travel plummets. And as British travellers also faced restrictions, we saw the decline of several longstanding travel brands, including tour specialist Shearings and round-the-world travel agent STA. Replacement entertainment While people couldn’t get out to theatres, restaurants or pubs, Ofcom research found that people were instead turning to streaming services for their entertainment. Home entertainment brands such as Netflix and Amazon Prime Video won big, with an extra 12m people joining a streaming service
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they hadn’t used previously. Disney+, which only launched in the UK around the time of the first national lockdown, managed to overtake Now TV as the third most popular paidfor streaming platform. Helping brands As well as the brands that have profited in spite, or because of, Covid 19 restrictions, some brands stood out for pitching in with the efforts to keep the country going during these hard times. Home schooling has posed a huge challenge to families, as parents try to juggle working from home and educating their children. Brands that have stepped in to help in this regard include mobile internet providers EE, Three and Virgin Mobile, who are all providing free data to customers in need. BrewDog, the Scottish beer brand, was one of many companies that started making hand sanitiser in response to the national shortage, and they have supplied tens of thousands of units to the NHS and local charities. Other brands helped tackle the nationwide shortage of PPE for frontline workers. One of many to repurpose their production line to this end was Cadburys, with its famous Bourneville factory joining the national effort, just as it did to make equipment for the Royal Airforce during World War II. These are just a few of the many brands that have helped people during the pandemic, and this will not be forgotten by consumers, so they may end up the biggest winners in the long-term as a result of the upturn in their brand reputations. PAGE 51
SUSTAINABILITY
Lyfcycle
By Trudi Bishop, Bee Licensing
Making fashion transparent and sustainable.
Fashion is one of the largest sectors in the brand licensing industry with apparel accounting for around 15% of the total Licensing Industry. Globally, the fashion industry is worth almost $3billion USD (around 2% of the global GDP). The apparel industry accounts for almost half of this number. Staggering numbers. Unfortunately, the fashion industry also has some other, less salubrious numbers it is accountable for. According to the IPCC (International Panel on Climate Change), fashion is responsible for almost 10% of the global CO2 emissions (more than aviation and shipping combined). 1.5trillion litres of water is used annually to create what effectively is delayed landfill as around 85% of textiles purchased end up being thrown in the trash. More recently with the Covid19 pandemic, fashion has come under scrutiny again, not just for its huge environmental impact, but also its social impact. The pandemic hit the industry hard in 2020, (according to a report by McKinsey & Company, economic profit is down 93%), with all sectors of the supply chain effected. With perhaps the worst effected being the manufacturers, particularly in Bangladesh where much of the world’s apparel is produced. Stories in the media were`
rife of large retailers (receiving government handouts for furloughing staff in the UK) refusing to pay manufacturers for garments already produced and waiting to be shipped. Workers went unpaid and unable to provide for their families. Bangladesh, used for its cheap labour, is also one of the most adversely affected nations from climate change. Having witnessed this first-hand after many years visiting the country from working in the fashion industry, father and daughter duo, Tony and Adriana, founded Lyfcycle, a fashion sourcing company with a difference. We speak to Adriana, the co-founder here. So, can you tell us a little bit of the background to Lyfcycle and your vision as a brand? Building on my father’s 30+ experience in the garment industry, I founded the company with him in 2019. From spending so much time in Bangladesh over the years, we'd seen first-hand the effects of fast fashion on both the environment and also, the toll on social norms in export communities. Together we had a vision to create an open dialogue between buyers, suppliers, and consumers within the industry to work collaboratively towards a common goal: maximise transparency – minimise resources & consumption. What do you see as the key issue in the fashion industry? Lack of transparency is a huge issue, across multiple facets: 1) Where materials come from 2) Who provides them 3) How they are made & what goes into them 4) Environmental cost of production Misinformation / lack of knowledge is also a problem – we’re barely scraping the surface
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of what it means to be making ‘sustainable’ products and we run the risk of sustainability becoming another ‘tick in the box’ exercise for brands rather than encouraging truly systemic changes in the way products are sourced and manufactured. Bearing in mind your vision of maximising transparency, could you tell us a little more on how you work and how you approach sustainability at Lyfcycle? True sustainability simply put means you should be able to do something forever. At Lyfcycle, everything we make is centred around considered design. How can we change the construction of a garment, the weave of a fabric, the threads that hold them together, to maximise the product Lyfcycle®. We work with brands to help them deliver eco-conscious products by breaking down the elements of a conventionally made garment and really working to improve each and every component that makes it up. That includes more than just the fabric but the labelling, accessories, and packaging too. Product traceability is put right into the consumer’s hands via the Lyfcycle app® which enables them to see what went into their clothes and who made them. We hold ourselves accountable to our own values – everything we do is against the following parameters: Sustainable, Responsible, Traceable, Visible. It’s important that the companies we work with uphold the same values and are that they share our genuine passion for doing things better. In challenging financial times, we have seen a big race to the bottom on prices, with the controversial 8p dress during the Black Friday deals recently being an extreme example. Is this a challenge you also face? What other TOTAL BRAND LICENSING
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challenges do you face, as a new sustainable kid on the block? Price demands: whilst our vision and objective are to make sustainably made clothing accessible and affordable to the masses rather than the few, making clothing ethically comes with a slight premium. That premium is derived predominantly from working with open, transparent and compliant suppliers that have higher costs of operation than suppliers that might not meet all the expected compliance criteria. The difficult part comes when companies feel the only option is to pass that premium onto consumers. What may be a 30 cents upcharge for a brand, could be a £5+ upcharge for an end customer – which could make all the difference in them picking a more eco-conscious garment over a more keenly priced one. Ultimately, that’s where we’re missing the chance to make a much more meaningful impact...but changing B2B buying behaviours is no easy change to implement. What is your ultimate aim for apparel in the licensing industry? To be more conscious. At the moment, it feels as though there’s a huge disconnect within the licensing industry as to the implications that it has on the environment. In essence, it’s an industry that’s largely driven by the latest trends– which in turn drives a hunger to be first and to sell the most of what’s hot this week. But that doesn’t mean measures can’t be taken to reduce the imprint we’re leaving on the world around us. Think about the fabrics that are being used, carefully consider the choice of print method and think creatively to do things in a different way. Change. Currently, from where we see things, there’s a blocker on the licensing industry becoming more sustainable. Brands will tell you that it’s not in their control and that the conversation needs to be had with their licensees. Licensees will tell you that it’s out of their hands because they are bound by the retailer’s established vendor-base within their respective organisations. So, we often TOTAL BRAND LICENSING
find ourselves in a position where a brand would like to do things more sustainably, a licensee can see the value in developing products more eco-consciously and a retailer would no doubt see the benefit in doing so also. Yet to let someone new like ourselves into the picture would mean changing the existing way things are done …. So, it stays the same. I feel there’s a real opportunity to shake up the industry and we’re hopeful that we’ll soon find the right partners that enable us to make a start. Speaking of partners, you currently have a collection with Smiley in the pipelines. Who, beyond Smiley would you ideally want to work with? Equally which fashion house would you love to work with? We’d love to do a collaboration with the likes of Raeburn or Pangaia. Two brands that are truly aligned with our vision to reduce the environmental footprint of fashion. As for licensing partner, we’d want a partner that can connect us with like-minded brands and enable us to deliver symbolic ranges with strong environmental messaging.
Your ethics as a company run well beyond sustainable sourcing, can you please tell us a little more about some of the charities Lyfcycle work with?
Sharewear Clothing Scheme – this is a Nottingham-based charity fighting to alleviate clothing poverty in the UK. They re-home all of our unused clothing samples. AWAJ Foundation – this is a charity working to amplify women’s rights and voices within the garment industry in Bangladesh – they represent a huge portion of the workforce there and are often underrepresented. Child Hope – This is a Bangladesh based charity that helps children remain children, keeping them out of exploitative situations or abusive environments. All of these charities are supported via the Lyfcycle Foundation to which we allocate 5% of all profits earned. Lyfcycle, the apparel brand waking up the fashion industry is breaking new ground within the brand licensing industry too. With a clear focus and vision, they are ensuring sustainability, transparency and accountability is the norm in fashion. They may be new kids on the block in our world, but they come with an old and wise head – keep an eye out for them in the future. Adriana Batty, co-founder can be contacted at adriana@lyfcycle.co.uk. https://www.lyfcycle.co.uk Trudi Bishop can be contacted at trudi@beelicensing.com PAGE 53
LIFESTYLE
The Style for Life JAM Brands is a licensing consultancy that focuses on the development and management of lifestyle licensing programs. Bringing indepth understanding of intellectual property, marketing, and product development, to effectively join brand owners with licensees to build successful licensing strategies, programs, and product extensions. JAM Brands is the exclusive worldwide licensing agency for Kensington Market Street Food, and the exclusive Canadian agent for Elle, Laura Ashley and Pantone. Drawing on the rich cultural and culinary her-
views in 45 Elle magazine editions worldwide and 25 Elle Décor magazine editions. With a solid licensing business including hundreds of licensees worldwide and well-established and diversified distribution channels, it is an iconic brand that is recognized everywhere as a respected authority on fashion, beauty, décor and lifestyle. Created for women, by women. Laura Ashley the quintessential English lifestyle brand inspired by a rich 60+ year design heritage. Laura Ashley is timeless, classic yet contemporary, and relevant in today’s modern world. Well known for its distinctive feminine floral designs, the brand is well recognized and loved worldwide, boasting 88% brand awareness. With many current licenses in ladies’ and children’s apparel and accessories, as well as home furnishings and accessories, there are still many layers of opportunity in licensing this brand for North America and beyond.
itage of this unique neighbourhood, Kensington Market Street Food brings delicious foods and culinary experiences to those searching for powerful flavours and multi ethnic tastes. A young brand experiencing dynamic growth! Elle is the world’s largest fashion magazine and media brand, celebrating 75 years in 202. Since 1945, Elle has been a unique platform for women. Beyond fashion and style, Elle has always focused on topics such as arts, culture and the place of women in society. For 75 years, Elle has transcribed powerful stories of women from all horizons and shared their
In addition to coloring our world and constantly improving and evolving the field of color communication, Pantone is the color platform upon which our interiors, exteriors, fashions and home products are created and manufactured. Pantone collaborates with corporations on color consistency, directs designers on colors and trends, and licenses designer-inspired products for consumers around the world. Judy Menceles judy@jam-brands.com PAGE 54
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MUSIC
Every Day is Different and Exciting David Boyne Managing Director, Bravado UK, spoke to Becky Ash about the incredible portfolio of artists that Bravado represents, the challenges and highlights of the last year, and plans for the future.... “Universal Music, who owns Bravado, has been fantastic over the last eleven months. None of us ever thought we would still be in the same position nearly a year later, but business has been very robust! E-commerce and online retail have become a much stronger part of what we do, and given the circumstances of the last year, we’ve been able to reposition our model slightly. “Over the last five or six years we have strategically grown our retail business, for example working with asos, boohoo.com, and our own e-commerce platforms for the artists. The grocers, such as Tesco and Asda, have played a big part in licensed product, and the fact they have been consistently open has certainly worked in their favour. “Other areas of retail, such as our great relationship with Primark who are currently not open to the public, mean that we have many projects with them ready to move forward
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when they can open again. “Bravado is in a unique position, the biggest music merchandise company in the world. By working very closely with the music labels on new releases – for example on Taylor Swift’s latest release this week – we live in the best of both worlds and can release exclusive merchandise immediately. “In terms of the business as a whole, the ‘heritage’ side, which includes artists such as The Rolling Stones, Queen, and The Who, is always extremely and consistently, strong. There has definitely been a trend of people turning to classics in lockdown – perhaps an element of a nod to better days - and we also work with more contemporary retailers on these classic bands and artists, which allows access to a younger audience. Much of the merchandise is fashion-driven, which means we can tailor the programmes towards different diverse audiences. Bravado has its roots in fashion – in fact, selling a black t-shirt in a field 40 years ago! It has always been about both the artist and the consumer. “Now we work on both sides of the business – the heritage as mentioned, and contemporary artists, such as Billy Eilish, Arianna Grande, Taylor Swift among others. Today it won’t surprise you that one of our top trend-driven products is masks! Of course, there are no tours, concerts or live events at the moment so we have adapted to this by live-streaming events. A lot of music is accessed digitally today so there is still an intrinsic tangibility there for the fans, a sense
of engagement. “However, nothing fundamentally compares to being at a live event, engaging with fellow fans – the model of live-streaming might continue in some respect, but nothing equates to what we see at concert pop-up stores with fans queuing together, sharing stories, buying the merch - seeing your artists with your own eyes, but in the short to medium term, we’ve been able to adjust successfully onto online platforms. “A huge part of our business is the retail activation and experiential marketing side – one of the most incredible projects we have even done was The Rolling Stones Store in Carnaby Street, which had a phenomenal reaction from fans and the global press. 2020 saw a Bob Marley 75th installation in Selfridges, and we have seen really interesting pop-up stores from Billy Eilish to Slipknot. When we deal with retailers we manage that process from start to finish – we also do some exciting licensing projects – for example working with The Royal Mint for an Elton John coin collection. We’ve worked with Happy Socks Happy Socks for Queen and The Stones, and Dr. Martens for The Sex Pistols. “So as you can imagine there are lots of future projects on the back burner for this year! And in terms of going forward – one of the very thrilling things about this business is that in February 2022, I might be talking about an artist that no-one had heard of in February 2021! “Every day is different – that is what makes my job and the business so exciting.”
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INFORMATION
The Useful Page... INDEX OF ADVERTISERS Art House Designs ...................................................................................................... 35 China Licensing Expo ................................................................................................... 2 Creative Sparrow ......................................................................................................... 27 Elizabeth Stirling ........................................................................................................ 29 Emma Lawrence .......................................................................................................... 28 Giordano Art .............................................................................................................. 31 Howard Robinson ....................................................................................................... 23 IMG .............................................................................................................................. 1 JQ Licensing ............................................................................................................... 25 Licensing International ............................................................................................... 58 LMI ............................................................................................................................ 43 London Portfolio ........................................................................................................ 33 MGL ........................................................................................................................... 32 Portfolio Select ............................................................................................................ 36 Start Licensing ............................................................................................................ 45 Tempting Brands .......................................................................................................... 3 V&A .............................................................................................................................. 9
UPCOMING SHOWS & EXHIBITIONS Pitti Immagine Uomo (Online) Pitti Immagine Bimbo (Online) 12 January - 5 April www.pittiimmagine.com ISPO Munich (Online) 1 - 5 February www.ispo.com Magic Digital (Online) 1 Feb - 1 March www.ubmfashion.com Licensing China 30 March - 1 April www.licensing-china.com Licensing Japan 14 - 16 April www.licensing-japan.jp Ambiente (Online) 20 April www.ambiente.messefrankfurt.com/frankfurt Licensing World Russia 20 - 22 April www.licensingworld.ru Bologna Licensing Trade Fair 14 - 16 June www.bolognalicensing.com PAGE 56
London Book Fair 29 June - 1 July www.londonbookfair.co.uk Brand & Lifestyle Licensing Awards 7 July www.brandlicensingawards.co.uk Nuremberg Toy Fair 20 - 24 July www.spielwarenmesse.de Progressive Greetings Live 27 - 28 July www.progressivegreetingslive.com The Inspired Home Show 7 - 10 August www.inspiredhomeshow.com Licensing Expo 10 - 12 August www.licensingexpo.com
These dates were correct at time of going to press. However, in light of the current situation, dates and whether a show is online or live are liable to change. Please visit the website of any relevant fair for the latest information.
Did you know…? To go with our Art and Design feature, here are some little known facts... Mona Lisa has no clearly visible eyebrows or eyelashes The small town depicted in Vincent van Gogh’s The Starry Night is Saint-Rémy-de-Provence in the south of France. It was painted while Van Gogh was in a psychiatric ward. Before he learned to walk, Picasso could draw. The first word he spoke was the Spanish word for pencil Salvador Dalí thought he was his dead older brother Leonardo da Vinci was ambidextrous The colour wheel predates the United States In 2003 street artist Banksy stuck his own work to the wall in the Tate Modern Museum Leonardo Da Vinci etched his initials into the Mona Lisa’s right eye The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci was used for target practice by Napoleon’s soldiers stationed in Milan, with Jesus’s face as the bullseye When the famous French artist Paul Gauguin died, a native Polynesian tried to revive him, by chewing his head Leonardo DiCaprio was named after the other famous Leonardo: Leonardo DaVinci. A chimp named Congo resident of London Zoo in 1950s, produced over 400 different paintings Franklin D. Roosevelt collapsed and subsequently died while sitting for a painting that still remains unfinished
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