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b r a d le y c ooper | mar y katra ntzo u | l s d: mo da o p e ra nd i m ult if acet ed c u ba | s exy fish | jks res ta urants ISSUE NO.8
FOUNDER’S
FOREWORD
A
s we reach the end of a hugely successful year, I can’t help but look back, not only on the year as a whole, but also to the very beginning and where we have come since opening. Here at Total Management we like to innovate. Nearly ten years ago we launched the brand, eight years ago we opened our first US office, six years ago we launched Total Management Lifestyle and our newest division Total Management Travel, opened in the summer of 2014. Now on the horizon we have our ‘Experiences’ division, which will launch soon. There will be more on this to follow, so watch this space. Gone are the days of traditional concierge, it’s all about brand partnerships, collaborations and bespoke services. These aspects are fundamental when supporting client entertainment, travel and hospitality platforms. It’s this ethos which I believe has made us so instrumental in how lifestyle companies are perceived. One of our clients once said to me that having Total Management assist you is like hiring a team of fifty full time staff. Our forward thinking and diverse services have seen a huge boom and over the last year we have welcomed a broad range of clients in sectors ranging from Advertising, Media and Technology. Over the last three months alone our team specialists have managed industry events in New York, London, Berlin, Chicago, Philadelphia, Bangalore and San Francisco, which is certainly keeping the team busy and racking up those air miles.
TH E C OVE R Ph oto graph by Alex Bramal l
Our work in the US has seen us bring on some incredible global clients with some exciting projects in the pipeline for the New Year. With that has come some phenomenal new members of the team and an office move to Park Avenue. Particular highlights over the last quarter from the New York office include, The Victoria’s Secret show which returned to its homeland, as well as our Lifestyle and Travel partnership with global media and communications conference, Advertising Week. Continuing our philanthropic efforts, 2015 saw us produce The Dramatists Guild Fund annual gala at Gotham Hall.
Interview on page 1 2
All in all, it’s been an incredible journey and I think this issue of The Journal is another testament to how far Total Management has come. We were incredibly fortunate to have critically acclaimed actor, philanthropist and female rights activist (as if we didn’t love him enough already) Bradley Cooper talk to us about his charity work, inspirations and turning 40. As this is the final edition of the year, I want to take the opportunity to wish you a very happy festive period and to thank everyone for their continued support. It truly has been a remarkable 2015.
NATASHA THOMAS CEO & FOUNDER
Editor in Chief J ACK D UR L I N G total-management.com 3
ISSUE NO.8
CONTENTS f eat u r es
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ARTISTIC HONOUR
UNWAVERING STYLE AUTHORITY
To represent a character on screen and stage requires strong commitment to the cause. Now in his fourth decade, Bradley Cooper is definitely not shying away from taking any challenges.
Playful monikers aside, LSD knows her fashion. We talk to the co-founder and creative director of online fashion retailer Moda Operandi about fashion, travel and her top tips on fashion capital Paris.
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CONSTRUCTING THE SURREAL
M U LT I FA C E T E D C U B A
Greek fashion designer and this issue’s cover Mary Katrantzou talks influences and the dialogue between opposites with Total Management.
The historically rich island nation of Cuba is on the cusp of a tourism boom, but is it ready? Travel expert Katie Nelson asks the question.
Plus
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I T ’ S A F A M I LY A F F A I R : T H E S T O R Y B E H I N D J K S R E S TA U R A N T S
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photos from left © walter mcbride, © kamira
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ISSUE NO.8
CONTENTS 3
FOUNDER’S FOREWORD
CONTRIBUTORS
g lo b et r o tte r
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th e u p date 8 E U R O P E ’ S O N E & O N LY ADVERTISING WEEK NEW photos clockwise, from bottom left © ben ingham, © manta resort, © jks restaurants, © ali monbasser, © kakslauttanen arctic resort
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r eg u lar s
YO R K 2 0 1 5 N E W YO R K M I C H E L I N
“Turning 40 hasn’t changed me too much. I’ve always just wanted to do good work, learn and grow. I’ve always wanted to work with great actors and great directors.” Bradley Cooper
S TA R S A N N O U N C E D 9 B O U T I Q U E F E S T I VA L CAMPING
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2 6 N E W G L O B A L S TAY S
Insight for new must-visit locations 2 8 ECO LUXURY
Interview with Suarga Resort owners Karolien Verschelden & Frederik Wittesaele 30 ARCTIC ESCAPE
EXPERIENCE THE
Finland’s most enchanting Arctic resort
EXTRAORDINARY N E W YO R K T O L O S E I T ’ S
3 4 W I L D WA N D E R L U S T
VIRGINITY
Bored of the norm and looking for seclusion? Explore our little black book of travel secrets
10 WE OPENED OUR EYES
London welcomes Ai Weiwei’s landmark exhibition to the Royal Academy of Arts
g o u r m and
st y l e & b eau t y
40 BRINGING SEXY BACK
1 6 N AT U R A L T O U C H
Celebrity facialist Abigail James talks us through natural skincare for the winter months
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Caprice Holding’s latest offering is mixing modern art, Asian-inspired cuisine and a provocative name 41 IN THE KNOW
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Global dining trends; gourmet adventures; US secret destination; international new openings 4 6 O N YO U R M A R K S
Tom Harris and Jon Rotheram talk about their newfound roles as publicans 5 0 TA S T E N O T E S 46
The Marksman’s Duck Curry combines beautifully with Karam Sethi’s Quinine Sour
2 2 N O T J U S T YO U R AV E R A G E C YC L I S T
Isabel Carmichael meets Head of Design at Rapha Alex Valdman for a whistle stop tour of how he wound up working at one of the world’s most influential cycling clothing brands
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total-management.com 5
Contributors ISSUE NO.8
ISABEL CARMICHAEL
MIRANDA MAY
KATIE NELSON
VANESSA CAPPELLI
ISABE L CARMI CHAE L
K AT I E N E L SO N
VAN ES S A C AP P EL L I
M I R AN DA M AY
Before embarking on her
Counting Koh Tao in Thai-
With plans to scale Japan,
Having spent part of 2015
own trip to China, in this
land as her favourite place,
New Zealand and the
in Vietnam followed by a
issue Isabel welcomes the
Total Management’s Direc-
South Pacific over the next
layover in Greece, Glob-
arrival of the iconic work of
tor of Private & Corporate
few years, natural born
al Development Director
Chinese artist Ai Weiwei to
Services in North America,
explorer Vanessa is never
Miranda is not only the
London’s Royal Academy.
Katie Nelson has voyaged
shy of a new challenge. In
longest serving member at
In this landmark exhibi-
extensively over the past
this issue she takes us on an
Total Management but also
tion, London plays host to
seven years but still has an
investigative journey to Bali
one of the widest travelled
some of the world’s most
extensive bucket list to get
where she meets sustain-
members of the team. Op-
emblematic demonstration
through. In this issue she
able hotel owners Karolien
erating between the Lon-
art. In this issue Isabel also
explores Cuba and talks
Verschelden and Frederik
don and New York offices,
tracks the rise of cycling
us through all we need to
Wittesaele of the Suarga
Miranda is always ahead
brand Rapha and its Head
know as US and European
Resort to understand the
of the curve when it comes
of Design Alex Valdman in
tourists to this enigmatic
importance of ecotourism
to new openings and trends
the run up to his first full
and often misunderstood
in today’s environment
in both cities. In her regular
collection due for release
island.
conscious world.
news spot, Miranda talks us through the latest updates
in 2016.
that are influencing global trends. illustrations emma ridgway www.emma-ridgway.co.uk
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HARRIET BAYLIS ELENA PANAGIA
ROBYN O’RIORDAN
SARAH WESTON
H ARRI E T BAYLIS
R O BY N O ’R I O R DA N
S AR AH WESTO N
EL EN A PANAG I A
Embarking on extensive
Total Management New
Sarah’s background
Joining us from her home-
overseas travel for her
York’s newest member of
working across the board
land of Tuscany in Italy,
role as Corporate Business
the team, Robyn arrives
in diverse areas of the
Elena brings with her a
Director, 2015 has seen Har-
with an extensive knowl-
travel industry makes her
wealth of knowledge of
riet travel between London,
edge of the cleverest event
one of the most experi-
Italian luxury properties and
New York, Las Vegas, Chi-
spaces and restaurant
enced travel experts to join
remote Italian locations, not
cago and Philadelphia. Her
venues The Big Apple has to
Total Management Travel.
to mention an avid pas-
packed calendar doesn’t
offer. In this issue we put her
Having trekked throughout
sion for traditional Italian
stop her from exploring her
travel bug to the test and
South East Asia, the Pacific
cuisine. Now based in the
favourite European cities
send her further afield to
Islands, Canada and New
UK, Elena has developed
when she is back working
explore some of the globe’s
Zealand she is a fountain of
an extensive knowledge of
in the Total Management
hottest hotel openings in her
knowledge on exotic and
UK venues and restaurants.
London office. In this issue
Globetrotter feature.
far-flung destinations. In
In this issue she explores
she takes us on a whistle
this issue Sarah handpicks
some of the most talked
stop tour of Denmark’s
a selection of the world’s
about new openings of the
effortlessly stylish capital
most eclectic properties for
season.
city to give us a glimpse of
the intrepid traveller in her
the capital’s most beauti-
feature on Wild Wanderlust.
ful venues and acclaimed menus.
CONNECT WITH US I NSTAG R A M : @totalmanagement TWITTER : @TotalMgmt FACE B O O K : facebook.com/TotalManagementGroup WE B : total-management.com
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THE UPDATE • t he l at e s t e ve n t , t r a ve l a n d li f estyle n ews f r om total m an ag em en t •
E U R O P E ’ S O N E & O N LY 2017 is earmarked to be the year that world famous One&Only Resorts will be marking European territory and opening their doors in the increasingly popular destination of Montenegro. Located at the narrowest part of the entrance to Tivat Bay, less than an hour from Dubrovnik International Airport, the 60-acre project will command an enviable position between mountain and sea and will overlook 1.2 km of Adriatic coastline. Our bags are already packed...
95,000 guests from all over the globe descended on New York to attend one of the biggest calendar events of the year for Marketing and Communication leaders. Total Management was at the hub of the action as the official lifestyle and travel partner for delegates’ needs travelling to and on the ground in the city. To add to the mix there was a world class turn out of the best and the brightest from the advertising and media worlds and a select few from the pop world including, Pete Cashmore (CEO & Founder of MASHABLE, Carolyn Everson (VP Global Marketing Solutions at Facebook), Snoop Dogg, Doug Ellin (Creator of Entourage), and Estelle, to name just a few. Fast-forward to spring 2016 where Advertising Week will be back in London and our team will once again be back in the midst of the action as attendees congregate in the capital.
N E W YO R K M I C H E L I N S TA R S A N N O U N C E D French gastronomic stalwart, Michelin, stepped up in its appreciation of New York at the end of last quarter granting stars to a collection of hotly tipped newcomers. Including Tempura Matsui, Sushi Yasuda, Cagen, Hirohisa, Somtum Der, Uncle Boons, Rebelle, Semilla and Finch, as well as Gabriel Kreuther’s eponymous restaurant (pictured), Michelin historically only based its findings in and around Manhattan to the strictly white tablecloth-ed venues. This relatively recent exploration into the lesser known areas of the city has seemingly opened up an abundance of high quality venues. In this new chapter for Michelin, which saw the inclusion of a number of highly regarded British newcomers such as Lyle’s in London in its recent installment of options in the UK capital, we finally see a breath of fresh air descend over its culinary kingdom.
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photos from top © kerzner, courtesy of advertising week, © evan sung
ADVERTISING WEEK NEW YORK 2015
BOUTIQUE FESTIVAL CAMPING Globally known as one the best loved and world’s largest greenfield festivals, the buzz surrounding Glasto is already mounting and true to form some 175,000 tickets sold out, within minutes. With a global list, festival-goers looking to us to offer the best luxury camping experiences will be pleased to hear that this year we have partnered with Yurtel. Guaranteed to “offer the finest in boutique camping in all the land”, your festival experience will never be the same again. We will be providing everything from fully furnished bell tents to luxury suites with their very own private bathroom, complete with a sumptuous brunch-style breakfast. Additional touches of luxury include; delicious treats from the restaurant, sumptuous cocktails from the bar, glitz and glamour in the bouffantery and a welcome glass of chilled prosecco on arrival. Yurtel sits on the parameter of the festival action and provides a luxury refuge away from the festival bustle for its guests. After a long day inside the festival our daily buggy services will provide all guests, feeling a tad achey and weary, a helping hand with the short journey back to camp.
EXPERIENCE THE EXTRAORDINARY
photos from top courtesy of yurtel
We at Total Management believe that luxury is no longer something associated with just goods and possessions, but rather extraordinary and exclusive experiences that can be shared and remembered together. Think of experiencing the likes of, Off Piste Skiing with a Winter Olympian Skier, Porsche Ice Rallying with Snow Safari, Desert Camel Trekking in Morocco, Cookery Masterclass with Raymond Blanc or an Exclusive Private Shopping Appointment with Moda Operandi to name a few. Total Management has made the impossible, possible by utilising its global network and knowledge to curate an exclusive collection of unique and memorable experiences. We also believe in helping others; that is why we have created a collection where experiences benefit worthy charities and causes. Launching soon... • www.total-management.com/our-experiences
NEW YORK TO LOSE IT’S VIRGINITY With a site in the fashionable north west corner of 29th Street & Broadway, Richard Branson has stated that, “at long last, the city that never sleeps will get a beautiful and irresistible Virgin Hotel to play, eat, work, mingle, and yes, even to sleep [in].” Branson’s latest venture of “Virgin Hotels” is rumoured to take hold of Dallas, Los Angeles, Miami, San Francisco, Washington DC, and London in the coming years. With over 300 guest rooms, meeting rooms, a state of the art gym in each property and a number of dining experiences; hotel stays are being reinvented in classic Virgin style. contact total management for bookings
WE OPENED OUR EYES In this major exhibition China is laid bare through the eyes of one of the country’s most inspiring artistic talents. Isabel Carmichael welcomes the influential work of Ai Weiwei to London’s Royal Academy of Arts. Above: Ai Weiwei in his studio in Beijing Below: Bicycle Chandelier, 2015
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Quite simply one of the most contentious artists in the world for his criticism of China’s approach to human rights and freedom of speech, Ai Weiwei has been imprisoned, beaten and hospitalised for his art. His installations and sculptures represent clear and unapologetic criticisms of governmental policy; you will know of Ai Weiwei for his Sunflower Seeds exhibit in the Turbine Hall at London’s Tate Modern in 2010-2011 where 100 million seeds were poured into the space, each one hand-crafted from porcelain, it was this that got him noticed and which led to a mysterious incarceration by the Chinese authorities. The son of poet Ai Qing, Ai’s strong belief in personal freedoms has over the years seen him subjected to secret observations, arrests and most recently, the 81 day detention in 2011 following the Sunflower Seed exhibit which placed him at the center of an international human rights campaign lead by a number of prominent figures in the art world. His detention, like other personal experiences throughout his childhood and career - which saw him leave China for a period during the 1980s to settle in the US - led to the production of a vivid and personal body of work portraying his observation of a country that has lived through centuries of ruthless suppression and impounded freedom of speech. In recent years, Ai’s use of social media to voice his opinions has opened a new chapter in his artistic expressions, echoing some of the sentiments he has previously only communicated through his works. In this timely exhibit, which coincides with the first state visit in a decade of the Chinese President Xi Jinping, the Royal Academy of Arts brings to the fore for the first time in the UK Ai Weiwei’s largest retrospective survey of China’s pursuit of power over its people all whilst promoting some of the key elements of Chinese cultural identity which are echoed through his choice of materials and construction methods. Hand crafted marble sculptures, porcelain and jade are prominent features of the exposition, touching upon Chinese artistic traditions, imperial history and skillful Chinese craftsmanship. Each installation and sculpture represents multidimensional meanings, each instrumental in helping the viewer to open their eyes – one of Ai’s most celebrated quotes - to see his message.
photos from top © harry pearce/pentagram, © dave parry courtesy of the royal academy of arts
THE UPDATE AIWEIWEI EXHIBITION
In this exhibition we see a man and hear a voice that is not afraid to objectify suppression, knowing full well that nothing is capable of silencing artistic expression. S T R A I G H T, 2 0 0 8 - 1 2 There is something very poignant and targeted about the choice of materials used to create ‘Straight’. The largest gallery space in the Royal Academy of Arts displays Ai’s reaction to the Sichuan earthquake of 2008 in which over 70 thousand people, largely children, in poorly designed schools, lost their lives. Straightened rods have been crafted by hand from the twisted and mangled steel that was all but destroyed in the quake. The 90-ton sculpture is laid out in broken waves recalling fault lines. Image courtesy of Ai Weiwei Studio © Ai Weiwei.
photo top © dave parry courtesy of the royal academy of arts
S.A.C.R.E.D., 2011-13 Possibly his most explicit work to date, S.A.C.R.E.D. depicts the time in which Ai is detained without warning by the Chinese Government. The installation is formed of six iron cubes with small apertures through which the viewer is able to observe miniature fiberglass representations of Ai and his guards during his detention period. © Ai Weiwei; Courtesy, Ai Weiwei Studio & Lisson Gallery
AI WEIWEI | ENDING 13 DECEMBER 2015 R OYA L A C A D E MY O F A R T S , LO N D O N
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ARTISTIC
HONOUR
With a handful of Oscar and Academy Award nominations to his name following starring roles in Silver Linings Playbook and American Sniper, international sex symbol status and roles which require life changing commitment, staying down to earth would be impossible, surely? But just like his characters, Cooper breaks moulds in every direction. 12 total-management.com
By
photos from facing page © walter mcbride, debby wong/shutterstock.com
NATAS H A T H O M AS
S
ome say that it was a cameo in Sex and The City that allegedly kick started Bradley Cooper’s career in the acting world. His cinematic back catalogue may have initially suggested a comic pattern with roles in the likes of Wet Hot American Summer, The Hangover and Wedding Crashers but it takes a seriously resolute actor to go that far into the realms of comedy and still make it – credibly - out the other side, seemingly more serious than ever before. Flash forward a number of pinnacle roles including a starring part in Clint Eastwood’s highest-grossing war film to date, American Sniper, it is clear that Bradley Cooper will never be typecast. Cooper darts between serious comedic and serious empathetic genius; did he ever imagine that one day he would play the part of Joseph Merrick in the stage version of The Elephant Man, a character so influential in his formative years, or did he think himself capable of altering his body shape so dramatically for American Sniper in order to portray a role so markedly different to himself physically? A man of hidden talents with a strong commitment to charity work, Cooper recognises his role as an influencer and is using his status to encourage his fans to engage in causes close to his heart. Currently sitting on the
Above: Bradley Cooper and Robert DeNiro at the premiere of Silver Linings Playbook
Board of Directors at the late Paul Newman charity for seriously ill children, Cooper is involved with a number of projects to assist young cancer sufferers obtain lifesaving transplant treamtment. Now in his fourth decade, we ask how his roles to date have influenced him. You turned 40 this year, how has this changed you as an actor and producer? Do you feel your aims in storytelling have changed from the days of Wet Hot American Summer to your present day roles, some of which have been based on biographical/ factual events? Turning 40 hasn’t changed me too much. I’ve always just wanted to do good work, learn and grow. I’ve always wanted to work with great actors and great directors. That hasn’t changed and I’ve been lucky to have worked with some of the greats. I just continue to want to get better. Your acting career has seen you cover a number of challenging issues and diverse subject matters; from the perceptions of beauty in The Elephant Man where your character was disfigured; to the physical and mental exertion required by those fighting on the front line in American Sniper. What has been your most challenging role to date total-management.com 13
“TURNING 40 HASN'T CHANGED ME TO DO GOOD WORK, LE ARN AND GROW. GREAT ACTORS AND GREAT DIRECTORS. LUCK Y TO HAVE WORKED WITH SOME
Above: Bradley Cooper in ‘American Sniper’
When a role requires you to physically change yourself – in American Sniper you had to gain muscle and take on a tough training regime for example – how do you prepare yourself physically and mentally for this? For [American] Sniper, I had to get to the point where I believed I was Chris so physically I needed to put on the weight to have myself believe [I was him]. His size was such a part of who he was. So I began this heavily regulated regime, waking up at 5 a.m., working out for five hours and consuming about 6,000 calories a day. How much do you empathise with characters when you are in role? Have you ever played someone whom you have felt very close to? Of course, I have always felt very close to Joseph Merrick [The Elephant Man]. The film touched me in a very real way when I was a kid. I have done the play for almost a year between New York and London. It’s hard to leave someone behind after you have lived with them for that long. 14 total-management.com
In your next film ‘Joy’ you work with fellow friend and actress Jennifer Lawrence who you appeared with in Serena, American Hustle and Silver Linings Playbook. You will also be working again with Robert De Niro who you last appeared on screen with in Limitless. Would you say that it is difficult to find and maintain good working relationships in the film industry? No, not at all; I love working with David O. Russell and Jen and Sienna and Bob. That will never get old! It makes it very easy as we know each other well, we understand how each other works and that makes everything easier. You have your own production company, 22nd & Indiana Pictures which you formed with Todd Phillips and which you named after the street your father lived on in North Philadelphia. Can you tell us what is on the cards for 22nd & Indiana Pictures next year? Last year, we combined our company with Todd Phillips so it’s now called 22nd and Green. We are working on a lot of TV and film projects and it’s great. Our first film we produced together comes out next year and it’s called “Arms and the Dudes.” I love being part of the storytelling process behind the camera.
photo courtesy of warner bros.
and why? The most physically challenging role for me was playing Chris Kyle [who was a Navy SEAL] in American Sniper; I put on 30 pounds for that role. I was on a strict diet and on a very specific workout routine. Playing Joseph Merrick [The Elephant Man] was challenging in more psychological ways. I’ve found that playing a real person is challenging and intimidating. I feel a sense of responsibility to portray that person in the right way, to honour them.
TOO MUCH. I’VE ALWAYS JUST WANTED I’VE ALWAYS WANTED TO WORK WITH THAT HASN’T CHANGED AND I’VE BEEN
photos from the top courtesy the hole in the wall gang camp, vladislav gajic/shutterstock.com
O F T H E G R E A T S .”
From top: Kids at The Hole in the Wall Gang Camp, a SeriousFun Camp; The Theatre Royal Haymarket, London where The Elephant Man showed for a 12 week season.
Who has been the biggest influence in your acting career? Would you be able to pinpoint a time when you realised that your talents were for performing? I realised at a young age that I wanted to act. My father showed me so many films growing up. We went to the movies and we watched movies at home. He was a big influence on me. Your career has allowed you to travel all over the world. Where do you call home and where do you go to escape? Philadelphia is home. I grew up there and we still have a place there. I’m back and forth between LA and New York a lot and I love both cities. What is the most far flung destination you have travelled to and why? I went on a couple of USO [United Service Organizations] tours and that was an amazing experience. We went to places I would never have been able to go; Guantanamo Bay, Cuba, Kuwait and Afghanistan. In June 2014, you joined the Board of Directors of The Hole in the Wall Camp, for which you do regular charity work. How did your first experience of volunteering as a cabin counsellor for the charity in 2006 influence your future charity work? I was very humbled and enjoyed spending time with the kids and their families on my visit in 2006. I didn’t know much about the camp at
that time. The concept is so simple; bring a camp experience to children that aren’t able to attend camp. When you see the happiness and sense of comfort that a place like Hole in the Wall brings to the kids and their families, it made me want to get involved. It’s a very special place. They asked me to work with them after that and it’s been a real pleasure. From the awareness and funds we have raised, I get to see the progress over the past 10 years and it’s grown massively. They serve more than 30,000 seriously ill children and families now. In the past you have encouraged fans to register as bone marrow donors. What other causes do you feel strongly about? I am on the board of the Hole in The Wall Gang. I support various cancer charities as that’s something that’s dear to my heart and it’s something that has affected me personally. I met this young gentleman, only 23, Anthony Daniels in NY and his story was so incredibly heartbreaking. We partnered together and have been trying to raise awareness for him to find a bone marrow match. Anyone can register at deletebloodcancer.org If you could summarize what the last ten years have taught you in 3 words, what would they be? To be humble or never give up.
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STYLE & BEAUTY • a s e a s o n a l i n s i g h t i n to sar tor i al f lai r an d wellb ei n g •
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d l bran a b o l g ion eur, repren nd key opin wn t n e e l a o., ifesty s kno alist, l rle Beauty C gail James i i c a f y a it bi Celebr or for Liz E chnolog y; A ouch. d e a t s ct ambas Venus Viva sing a magi ses for for pos leader
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bigail knows better than anyone the toll the winter months can have on our skin. But is it possible to get through the chilly winter season with natural or organic products? We asked the expert for her advice. Certified Organic does not necessarily mean better quality, some natural ranges may actually use organic ingredients but the farms where they are sourced from do not have the resources to go through the organic certification. If you’re skeptical about the effectiveness of naturals, most, if not all of our modern day medicine was firstly derived from the plant kingdom. The availability of highly effective plant based ingredients grows year on year, making natural skincare just as effective as the more synthetic products available. In a lot of cases more so because these are ingredients the body can recognise. Natural does not mean you can’t react. You can still react or have an allergy to a plant ingredient, it’s less likely but they are still potent at doing their job. It’s easier to combine products from different natural, plant ranges as there is less “chemical clash” than with synthetic products. Does the skin absorb what’s applied to it? Yes, an example is hormone and nicotine patches. So think natural when it comes to your whole body, face and hair. When it is winter and your skin is dry and keen to absorb products, it will thank you for it.
1 . D R S C H E L L E R O R G A N I C P O M EG R A N AT E M O I S T U R I S E R 2 . J O H N M A S T E R S B O DY S C R U B 3 . O S K I A R E N A I S S A N C E M A S K 4 . L I Z E A R L E N O U R I S H I N G H A I R O I L 5 . M Y C H E L L E E N Z Y M E F A C E S C R U B 6 . L I Z E A R L E C L E A N S E A N D P O L I S H 7. P R T T Y PEAUSHUN, SKIN TIGHTENING BODY LOTION 8. LIZ EARLE SUPER SKIN SERUM 9. NUORI PERFECTING BODY OIL
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Not Just Your Average Cyclist
photo courtesy of rapha
T
he discourse surrounding the cycling world can be polarising, and as such there is often a large amount of discontent amongst the distinct factions that exist within this ever growing world. There are the cycling enthusiasts; Lycra© wearers who take to the roads during weekends, they own equipment and have superior aerodynamics and they are fairly smug; the hipster cyclists for which helmets aren’t necessary, backpacks are, they often have beards (except for the girls) and wear whatever they want, because they don’t care. Then there is the rest of us, where we belong is unclear, we like cycling and sometimes we get messy doing it. The common ground is of course the activity but the common problem is the clothing, because not everyone wants to wear socalled ‘cycling clothing’ every time they get on a bike. So what if there was a nice middle ground option that would allow you to cycle freely, look good, sweat less, if at all, and look smart enough to arrive at your destination without having to immediately change? Thankfully this exact question was once posed by Rapha founder Simon Mottram who took matters into his own hands and set up the company. Around about the same time,
Divisive for its pricing and well respected for its styling, Rapha is a hot topic on the cycling scene. For a number of years the popularity of the sport has seen a significant increase thanks to international sporting events such as the Tour de France and the Olympics. Isabel Carmichael meets Head of Design at Rapha Alex Valdman for a whistle stop tour of how he wound up working at one of the world’s most influential cycling clothing brands.
the now Head of Design at Rapha, Alex Valdman was thinking the same thing. How it began As pipedreams go, Alex Valdman’s went pretty well. Imagine the scenario; a frustrated non-professional designer and student-skater-turned-hedge fund manager is spotted on the street wearing a homespun hoodie. He is praised for his innovative design work and individual style; he is catapulted into the design limelight and ends up hanging out with Kanye West in LA. So goes the story of Alex Valdman.
From top: Track Jacket with Merino Wool Sweatshirt, constructed using a soft and breathable merino wool and Lycra blend; Alex Valdman
It was 2005 when Valdman, third generation tailor and finance student decided to throw in the towel on his studies and pursue fashion in a serious way. Some fairy tale-like coincidences ensue and the rest is history as they say; designer gets spotted, quits finance school with two classes still to complete, guesses the email address of the right person and winds up in LA for a while with Kanye West advising at his former streetwear brand Pastelle. Time passes and before long he gets headhunted, aged 26, by Levi’s total-management.com 17
to head up Global Menswear Design with a cool $2 billion worth of revenue to turnover on his shoulders. Flash forward a couple of years and a move to Europe; skateboards are now professional road bikes and Valdman is bringing cycling clothing into the modern age. Still perhaps considered a baby in the design world, Valdman has, in his own words, matured and aged quicker than the average thanks to a serendipitous decade of off-chance meetings and a desire to create well designed and fashionable (without being fashion-led) streetwear. It won’t be until 2016 that Rapha debuts Valdman’s first full collection (there are a couple of pieces currently available); the best is yet to come we are told. An understanding of fabrics was established from an early age thanks to Valdmans’ family influences. His mother, a designer; grandfather; a tailor and father, a software engineer at Adobe; all were prominent forces in his Ukrainian upbringing which saw his family move around Europe before settling in San Francisco when Valdman was a child. Despite initially ignoring his inherited talents and pursuing the commercial route at business school, his experiment in the word of finance was short lived, even with initial reservations by his immediate family. “I went to school to study finance but I hated it. I was working at a hedge fund doing stock analysis but I was thinking about streetwear and skating [all the time]. Back then bikes and streetwear were emerging trends and there weren’t many brands producing good quality streetwear. I didn’t have any money so I went to a fabric store to see what I could get.” This notion for wanting to improve quality in sports and streetwear was also something shared by Rapha founder Simon Mottram; they just didn’t know each other yet.
“when you’re obsessed with something you naturally want to know everything about it – the notion is that you want to wear things in and not wear things out – so fabric takes on your character, that’s all you care about.”
It was through a fortuitous guess on Kanye West’s email address that the pair ended up in touch. Valdman spent the summer in LA with West working on his streetwear brand, later crediting him as a defining influence alongside his family to his working ethos. “He’s a brilliant dude. I was 25 at that time. He put a lot of heart and soul into his music so to see him put it into a different medium was truly inspiring.” It wasn’t long after then that he was in touch with Mottram at Rapha and things started to move from streetwear to cycle wear via denim. Valdman’s time at Levi’s was also instrumental, recognising that it was quite an achievement to “breakthrough a well-established 18 total-management.com
photos © ben ingham
Fortuitous guess
pact and as such it has worked out that it is more eco-friendly to handle some of the creation process in Asia. As Valdman explains, “China gets it right because [it] has had 40 years to learn how to do things well and therefore the craftsmanship can be superior [to Europe]. We source some fabrics in Japan because there is nothing else like it in Europe, so it is easier and much more environmentally stable to bring things directly from Asia.” For a brand that started out with the ambition to create good-looking and well-designed clothing for cyclists whatever their background, it has formed a community. Rapha even has its own members club that organises cycle activities for the intrepid cyclist. Valdman is heavily involved with these trips and regularly attends, wearing Rapha, naturally wanting to road test garment durability and style. He adds, “when you’re obsessed with something you naturally want to know everything about it – the notion is that you want to wear things in and not wear things out – so fabric takes on your character, that’s all you care about.”
‘old-school brand’ mind set” at such a young age. It was there he fine-tuned his craft, learning about twists on yarns and micro engineering; skills which he utilises daily at Rapha when deliberating endurance materials for cycling.
Please find further information and shop online at Rapha.cc
Rapha
photos © ben ingham, courtesy of rapha
Founded in 2004 by freelance brand developer Simon Mottram with currently only four stores worldwide in London, New York, San Francisco and Tokyo, Rapha isn’t yet a cycling clothing giant but it is making a big noise with new outlets planned for the coming years. With a number of well-known cycling professional fans and weighty brand associations - Team Sky switched from partnering with Adidas to Rapha in 2013 and they have since collaborated with Paul Smith – Rapha is spearheading the cycling movement worldwide.
Rapha Track Jacket, contemporary tracksuit jacket for insulation and utility in the city
Price and quality is something very much associated with the brand; Founder Mottram even once alluded in an interview to the brand being like the ‘Marmite’ of sportswear. People are divided by the cost; a jacket will set you back at least £200. Rapha prides itself on its level of test rigour and the craftsmanship of those who design and make the garments. Surprisingly to some, many Rapha garments are made in China with some fabrics sourced in Japan. The brand is concerned by its carbon footprint and environmental im-
Rapha Cotton Trousers with a slim fit and gradual taper at the lower leg, for everyday use on and off the bike. total-management.com 19
UNWAVERING ST YLE AUTHORIT Y
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photo courtesy of moda operandi
LAUREN SANTO DOMINGO’S
Lauren Santo Domingo: fashion expert, co-founder and creative director of online catwalk fashion retailer Moda Operandi; contributing editor at Vogue, New York; embodiment of style. We aren’t talking here today, gone tomorrow fashion; this is unwavering, timeless chic and she has a wardrobe to prove it.
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usiness and haute couture aside, Lauren Santo Domingo is also the mother of two children and wife to Colombian record label owner Andrés Santo Domingo. At 39, LSD, as she is affectionately known to her friends in the fashion world, is recognised as one of the most influential New Yorkers of the past decade for her influence on consumer access to catwalk fashion. With homes in Paris and New York and frequent international travel, appearing at catwalk shows and award ceremonies, how does New York’s most photographed fashion comrade maintain her seemingly effortless elegance? LSD talks to Total Management about the style secrets we wish we’d known earlier. You set up Moda Operandi in 2010, what made you come up with the idea for an online market place where you can purchase items direct from the catwalk? After Vogue, I worked in PR at J. Mendel and Carolina Herrera. Both were small family-owned companies, and it was during that time that I thought: I would love to start my own business. Mrs. Herrera was so inspiring. It was fascinating to watch her. She was so in charge of her domain. I knew I ultimately wanted to create a company that worked within the industry while helping emerging designers to grow. Moda Operandi narrowed the gap between the consumer and the runway, omitting the pain of falling in love with a dress on the runway only to find that it was never produced. I was granted access to the runway, so why not share that privilege with everyone else? Our customer has truly embraced the ability to shop the runway (almost as much as me).
photo courtesy of moda operandi
How do you see online retail changing over the next decade? Power to the consumer! Our core business — runway — puts the client first and allows her to make a purchase that is unedited from the runway. We attract a very different clientele from the competition, which I love. Our goal is to continue to connect our customer directly to the runway, allowing her to choose who she wants to be next season and how she will dress. That’s a true evolution of the runway. What or who got you into fashion in the first place? I started at Vogue shortly after college in 2000. I was young, inspired by my Greenwich, Connecticut upbringing, but surrounded by new, very cool talent. The new designers at the time were Jack and Lazaro of Proenza Schouler, Phillip Lim, and Zac Posen. I was the assistant calling in the clothes. My style was very mood driven, but always classic with calculated risks. Samples were a perk, absolutely. They were young, didn’t have PR people, and were doing it themselves. Real friendships emerged. Now we’ll sit around and say, ‘Wait, we’re not the new kids anymore. We’re the grown-ups!’ For three years, all I did all day was deal with clothes, and I loved it. Vogue prepared me, not only the long hours, the stress and the extreme dedication, but for this intimate knowledge of fashion that has served me so well. I can spot any designer, any fabric, and any silhouette. If I see an old dress, I can tell you what season it’s from, possibly the exit number when it went down the runway, and if it was a really special dress, maybe [even] the model who was wearing it.
“I think fashion is a bit amusing; the goal is to get the nod of approval from your girlfriend, and not get an eye-roll from your husband.”
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Do you find it difficult always being in the public eye? Do you feel under pressure to be continually breaking fashion boundaries? The thought has never really crossed my mind. I like to think that I’m both exacting and spontaneous at the same time. I enjoy the process of curating and tailoring my wardrobe. I think fashion is a bit amusing; the goal is to get the nod of approval from your girlfriend, and not get an eye-roll from your husband. You have a home in the Saint-Germain district of Paris. How much time do you spend there and how much inspiration do you take from Parisian style? I travel to Paris a handful of times each year, between work meetings, Fashion Weeks, and with my family. I have also learned that the idea of individuality is universally ridiculed by the French. The Parisian woman dresses proper; wearing real clothes and dialling back on the non-necessities i.e. 24-7 cell phone and bad breakfast food.
Moda Operandi launched its London showroom last year. How do fashion trends differ between London and New York? Our arrival in London was inspired by our clients and the overwhelming talent of London designers. The European customer understands fashion in a unique way. They are sophisticated and fashion-forward shoppers. London itself is an integral part of our business, as many of our top clients have a residence here. London sits at the crossroads for Moda Operandi’s international clientele and the space will serve to strengthen its presence and access outside of the US. Moda Operandi London is a luxurious extension of the trunk show experience and true to its inception the space will be by invitation only [Moda Operandi began as an invitation only online market space].
photos courtesy of moda operandi
MODA OPERANDI, 32 GROSVENOR CRESCENT MEWS, BELGRAVIA, G R E AT E R LO N D O N SW 1 X 7 E X
Where do you usually stay when you are in the UK capital? I almost always stay at The Connaught in Mayfair. It is insanely elegant and completely charming. As I would always prefer to be at home with my family and my heavy hardcover books, staying at The Connaught helps me achieve a certain level of comfort that is imperative to my wellbeing. Which city in the world would you say has the best style and best access to haute couture fashion? Paris. You are very involved with your business. How do you balance your work and home life? I have two children, so I can’t sleep in late. The first thing I think about is coffee, immediately. And then whether my iPhone is charged. I try to stay very organised, but after I wake up, the rest of the day is often a gamble. I have two non-negotiables in the morning, three if you count coffee: breakfast with my children and taking them to school. After that, it is either straight to the office or ballet class with Mary Helen Bowers. I find there is an assumption that those who work in the industry have days full of glamour (photo shoots, reviewing look books, designer lunches). In actuality, my day is more numbers, analytics, and spreadsheets than one would assume, myself previously included. Someone recently asked me what time I finish work. It was a cute question, but the real answer is never. A reward for me at the end of the day is time to read, it’s my most simple luxury.
What’s next for Moda Operandi? We just celebrated our one year anniversary of Moda Operandi London, and in February it will be our five year anniversary as a company. More to come!
LSD’S
LITTLE BLACK BOOK: PARIS Favourite café: C A F É
DE FLORE
Favourite bookshop: 7 L Favourite flower shop: L A C H A U M E Favourite stationery: A R M O R I A L Favourite art gallery: G A L E R I E
PERROTIN
Favourite art supply shop: S E N N E L I E R Favourite eyewear shop: E . B
MEYROWITZ
Favourite jewellery shop: J A R Favourite department store: L E
BON MARCHÉ
Favourite restaurant: C A V I A R
KASPIA
photo courtesy of moda operandi
Travelling is such a core part of your life; how does your wardrobe cope with constant packing and unpacking? What are your go-to luggage labels? It should be noted that I will always choose being home with my family [over travelling]. I always try to make plans ahead of time with friends and family that will be in town. I pack according to my plans, but bring two extras as options for a last minute calendar change. The best suitcases are by Burton, my husband turned me on to these and we won’t travel with anything else. I do however have my eye on a set from Globe-Trotter.
You’ve been complimented on your youthful radiance many times in the press, surely frequent flying dries out your skin. What are your beauty secrets? The beauty basics I always travel with are Georgia Louise Hydrating Rosewater, Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream, and By Terry Baume de Rose.
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Constructing the Surreal Total Management caught up with one of Europe’s most significant young design talents to discover what keeps her focused and what provides her with the inspiration to keep things interesting.
Your graduating show from Central Saint Martin’s in 2008 propelled you into the limelight and launched your eponymous label. You now stock to over 56 countries and have an e-commerce platform available to clients in Europe, US, Canada and Australia. How does it feel to be in touch with so many people through your design work? Fashion is more accessible 24 total-management.com
now than it’s ever been. We have stockists all over the world, both physical and e-commerce based, including our own e-commerce site. With every season we try to communicate something new, to stay relevant and interesting. It’s really interesting to see how your customer differs across the regions and how stockists tailor their buys to accommodate. We value feedback and tweak the collection from season to season to make sure we’re encompassing all their needs. My design aesthetic has developed so much since I started in AW09 and we rely on the support of our stockists to help drive the brand and move it forward. You are originally from Greece; do you feel that your Greek heritage and upbringing has influenced your signature ‘trompe l’oeil’ [the art of illusion] style? My roots are often brought into question when it comes to my designs. Greece has an incredibly rich history, but I wouldn’t say its heritage directly influences my designs. My aesthetic has been shaped more so by my culture, my sense of colour and symmetry.
photo © alex bramall
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orn in Athens in 1983, Mary Katrantzou’s journey into the world of fashion started early. The daughter of an interior designer and a textile worker, her background developed an understanding of fabrics and technique. Talent coupled with an inherent interest in fashion and well-fitting garments developed a characteristic signature style which brought her to the fore of the fashion world following her graduation from Central Saint Martin’s in 2008. Her profession to date has seen her move to America to study architecture; a skill, which is clear in her design work, before switching to study textile design in London where she now resides.
What is it about the combination of surreal designs with architectural precision that inspires you? They’re opposite ends of the spectrum but I like the dialogue they create when married together. My collections are very thematic; they tend to start off with visual imagery that later helps to define our mood and intention. We create mood boards, reworking and refining them until we’ve created our own interpretation. My designs are always structurally sound; ill-fitting clothes are my pet peeve! So silhouettes are always precise, each seam and drape has been considered. I like the collections to be open to interpretation so that’s where the element of surrealism always comes in!
in before. The collections we’ve created with Adidas Originals have been an incredible learning curve, their innovation in sportswear is inspiring and their archive in Nuremberg is like nothing I’ve seen before!
You are continually innovating and have collaborated with a number of renowned brands including Swarovski, M for Moncler and Topshop. How do you decide on partnerships and where do you notice synergies? Timing is key when it comes to collaboration. They’re not to be entered into lightly as they take a lot of time and commitment; we’re now designing four collections a year now so have to make sure we have the resources to commit to it wholeheartedly. I treat collaborations as an opportunity to learn something new, explore an area I haven’t worked
When you see people wearing your designs how does it make you feel? Is there anyone in particular who has worn one of your pieces that has made you stop in your tracks? I feel incredibly proud and humbled too! I never design with a specific muse in mind, I find it too limiting and I don’t think that’s how fashion should be. I like how diverse our customer is, it makes me smile when we visit trunk shows and I see mum and daughter arrive both wearing the brand. There are so many women whose strength and power I find inspiring in different ways - my
Your brand has expanded from women’s ready-to-wear to leather, jewellery and shoes, do you have a preferred area to work in? I love a challenge, if something seems easy then I’m the first to question why it’s easy and what we can do to develop it further! I like the fact that we now have different elements that make up the brand; it keeps things exciting and allows you to innovate in new areas.
Donne Dress A shimmering column of ultramarine microsequins tessellate in perfect unison to create the long, linear and sophisticated silhouette of the Dress.
“There are so many women whose strength and power I find inspiring in different ways - my mentor Caroline Rush, the late Louise Wilson, Zaha Hadid, Tilda Swinton - the list is endless but ultimately it’s diversity and confidence that inspires me to do what I do.” total-management.com 25
Calty Sweatshirt A true Katrantzou style add-on, taking a classic shape, above and beyond the norm.
Nat Skirt with eye catching embellished lacquer finish tartan centre panels framed by slimming surface textured side panels
mentor Caroline Rush, the late Louise Wilson, Zaha Hadid, Tilda Swinton - the list is endless but ultimately it’s diversity and confidence that inspires me to do what I do. You have lived in London for a number of years both as a student and professional designer. Can you tell us more about your life in London? Busy, no day is ever the same! I try to fit in external meetings in the morning, so I’ll either go to Colbert on Sloane Square or Little House and then head straight to studio for a full day of design meetings. My evenings are often spent either at an event, a catch up dinner with friends or on the sofa with my boyfriend and the latest series! If I have any free time at the weekend then I love to go for a manicure, have a wander around a gallery – the Saatchi is super close by, catch up with friends, go for dinner; The Palomar is one of my favourites. Are there any other London based designers whom you look up to? London is a really exciting place to be a designer, the BFC [British Fashion Council] play such a fantastic role in supporting new talent here and I love seeing new designers emerge through the ranks! You travel regularly between the fashion capitals for work. If you could pick one place in the world to escape from it all, where would you go and with who? If I had the time, I’d love to go and explore parts of Africa with my boyfriend.
Above and Below: On the catwalk at Mary Katrantzou’s Spring Summer 2016 London Fashion Week Show
Corine Dress is a shirt syle design constructed from a bespoke sapphire viscose velvet and silk devore
Greece is somewhere close to your heart; you can let us in on a Greek travel secret? Go to the island of Spetses. It’s beautiful, calm and has an authentic charm – there are no cars! Shop online at www.marykatrantzou.com/shop
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GLOBETROTTER • a g u i d e for th e di sc er n i n g tr av eller •
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N E W G L O B A L S TAY S Lacking in inspiration for your next long haul adventure? Intrepid hotel expert Robyn O’Riordan brings us insight, flavour and a few top tips for new must-visit locations.
photos clockwise from top © andbeyond, © alex prior
KEEMALA, PHUKET
Birds nest suites, bamboo pods on stilts and baths carved out of rock. Welcome inside the spectacular resort inspired by Thai mythology…The small wellness-focused resort in the woodlands just outside the village and beach of Kamala features four uniquely styled pool villas, each representing a clan of fictitious early Phuket settlers; clay and straw cottages, tent villas, tree houses and birds nest villas. THE HOXTON, AMSTERDAM
The Hoxton Amsterdam is a stylish Dutch hotel offering a hip vibe, expertly-crafted cocktails, elegant interiors, and a fleet of bikes for guest use, near Anne Frank House, Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum. This quirky spot is made up of five canal houses with an eclectic design which was inspired by the history of the building—home to the city’s mayor for generations—and the surrounding area. MAALIFUSHI BY COMO, MALDIVES
Maalifushi by COMO is a new island resort located in the sparkling turquoise waters of the Maldives’ southerly Thaa Atoll. Land or sea: the resort is made up of land villas and houses featuring elegant French doors and private plunge pools and over-water villas and suites boasting spectacular views of the Maldivian sunrise.
2 SANDIBE OKAVANGO SAFARI LODGE O K AVA N G O D E LTA , B OT S WA N A
The luxurious Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge caters to the design-savvy, eco-friendly, safari-goer. Guests can awaken to the sound of animals, laugh at the antics of baboons and squirrels over breakfasts and tread in the footsteps of elephants as they walk the ancient paths that bisect the forest. Constructed of biodegradable materials, this luxury camp is as much about the design as the location and wildlife spotting opportunities. T H E B R A N D O , F R E N C H P O LY N E S I A
Situated on the breathtaking, private island of Tetiaroa, sits The Brando. With access to the island by private plane, the resort features 35 villas on white sand beaches frequented by sea turtles, manta rays and exotic birds. Every villa has its own outdoor eat total-management.com 27
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5 ing and private beach area, plunge pool, soft and cosy furnishings and large windows that let you savour the views. A D L E R M O U N TA I N L O D G E , I TA LY
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Perched upon a rolling pasture overlooking the World Heritage Alpe di Siusi, the crown jewels of the Dolomites, here you’ll truly feel a world away from anywhere. Whether you’re looking for a mountain adventure or just to escape and relax, this is pure alpine bliss. Guests are offered a front row seat to one of the most stunning mountain ranges, at 1,800 meters above sea-level with nothing but panoramic views of the Alpe di Siusi stretching out beyond. HOTEL SAHRAI, MOROCCO
The five star Hotel Sahrai, designed by the architect and designer Christophe Pillet, enjoys spectacular views of the largest medina in the Arab world, taking in twelve centuries of the city’s history in one fell swoop. Just 2h30 away from Paris, it offers a totally new hotel experience in Fez. An alternative to the shady isolation of the riads and the impersonal feel of the big resorts, its architecture on a human scale is a combination of tradition and contemporary style.
7 1 . S A N D I B E O K AVA N G O S A FA R I LO D G E 2 . T H E H OX TO N 3 . K E E M A L A 4 . A D L E R M O U N TA I N LO D G E 5 . M A A L I F U S H I BY C O M O 6 . T H E B R A N D O 7. H O T E L S A H R A I
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photos clockwise from top left © brent madison , © adler spa resorts, © como hotels and resorts, © klaus mellentin , © the brando
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TRAVEL with TOTA L M A N AG E M E N T
A comprehensive and bespoke service covering every aspect of personal and corporate travel. travel@total-management.com
GLOBETROTTER ECO LUXURY
S U S TA I N A B L E TRAVEL R E P O R T: BALI
In te r view w it h fou n d e r s Ka rolien Ve r s ch e ld e n & Fre d e r ik Wit te s a e le of the Su a rga Pa d a n g Pa d a n g by Pe ppers
Wo rds: Vane ssa Cap p e l l i
ences, our likes and dislikes, personal priorities, interests and a long wish list of idealistic ideas striving towards the creation of a responsible business model. Our research on bamboo connected us with inspiring people and opened new doors, for instance international organizations such as FSC and Rain Forest Alliance. We are all aware of the ongoing destruction of our planet, but actively realizing that one can contribute to the solution gives a tremendous motivating power to become part of that solution. What started as a simple idea grew into a passion, a way of thinking and a philosophy embraced by the whole family.
Let’s start from the beginning, where did you come from and how did you end up in Uluwatu, Bali? FW: We are originally from Belgium. My work in the textile industry brought us to Jakarta and we lived there for many years. Our family used to travel to Bali regularly so it became a second home for us. As with many, we were enchanted by the charming culture, nature and local people.
In your eyes what does it mean to be sustainable? KV & FW: acting and thinking sustainable is an expression of thinking beyond one’s own (life) time. Today’s actions affect everybody’s future. In pure business context, a business needs to be economically sustainable at all times, but there is the understanding that a business model principally based on numbers will have difficulty to withstand the fast changing currents of today’s economics. The three pillars of sustainability are unmistakably related to create a durable (long term) income for the owners and their staff whilst paying attention to the use of natural resources and environment.
When did you decide that building Suarga was your vocation and tell us about the initial vision? KV: In 2006 we were still living as an expat family in Jakarta. We purchased a parcel of land in Padang Padang. This was intended to be our home, with a few cottages to rent out and a small organic restaurant, providing yogalates classes and eventually related practises. FW: The 2008 financial crisis happened and made us clear that we were ready for change. I am very business minded and the answer was obvious: we had a sizeable piece of land in one of the most desirable surf locations in Bali. The mini version of Suarga was already created in our minds and we decided overnight to take it seriously and projected it to another level in size and concept. KV: Our mental notes were based on our family travel experi-
When you were project planning were your priorities design and aesthetics before sustainability or the other way around? How did you go about setting your priorities? KV: Suarga is built in the Bukit, an old coral formation which probably took hundreds of thousands of years to become what it is today and from the very start we decided to maintain the hilly landscape instead of making it flat in order to facilitate construction. It was an organic process that went hand in hand. The aesthetics play an important part and have been realised in a sustainable way. Our desire to use sustainable materials encouraged us to be creative and resourceful. FW: You will see that within the resort, we use very few types of materials, which are assembled in various textures and motifs
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contact total management for bookings
photos courtesy of suarga resort
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ustainable tourism is surely one of the most talked about issues of recent years but what exactly does it mean to the communities that are effected? As defined by the World Tourism Organization, sustainable tourism is “the management of all resources in such a way that economic, social, and aesthetic needs can be fulfilled while maintaining cultural integrity, essential ecological processes, biological diversity, and life support systems”. With the aim of adhering to this concept and reducing their carbon footprint, a number of properties across the globe have taken matters into their own hands. Vanessa Cappelli visits the Suarga Padang Padang by Peppers in Bali to understand how it is possible to combine modern luxuries with minimal cost to the surrounding environment.
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S U A R G A I S B U I LT I N T H E B U K I T, A N O L D C O R A L F O R M AT I O N W H I C H P R O B A B LY TOOK HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OF Y E A R S TO B E C O M E W H AT I T I S TO D AY A N D F R O M T H E V E RY S TA R T W E D EC I D E D T O M A I N TA I N T H E H I L LY L A N D S C A P E I N S T E A D O F M A K I N G I T F L AT I N O R D E R TO FAC I L I TAT E C O N S T R U C T I O N . I T WA S A N O R GA N I C P R O C ES S T H AT W E N T H A N D I N H A N D . T H E A E S T H E T I C S P L AY A N I M P O R TA N T PA R T A N D H AV E B E E N R E A L I S E D I N A S U S TA I N A B L E W AY. Clockwise from facing page: The main building and vista at Suarga, made from Bamboo; Ulin Pavilion Bedroom; Pool and views of Suarga Padang Padang; Ulin Pavilion Terrace and Exterior; Dugong Restaurant and Lounge Bar
photos courtesy of suarga resort
to achieve the aesthetics. The materials used are entirely local to Indonesia and the natural tones and textures blend harmoniously with the location. I’ve personally seen to what extent you’ve gone out to find, research and integrate modern sustainable techniques, recycled materials, local practices in your project but for those who haven’t yet could you give us an overview what they should expect to find? KV: The name “Suarga” (Sanskrit), means heavenly world or paradise. It is our hope that our guests feel “at home” at Suarga Padang Padang. It is a place where they can enjoy modern comforts at a minimal impact to the environment. Suarga targets the “Rough Luxury Travellers”, the well-seasoned travellers sensitive to the luxury of nature’s presence. Looking up from the edge of the cliff towards the resort, Suarga looks like a village, it might even evoke some nostalgic feelings and longing for an authentic and simple lifestyle. Back to the basics, the essence. Why is it important for future hoteliers to understand eco and sustainable practices in this industry? FW: For hoteliers established in holiday destinations it is no debate that the location is the reason of their existence. So if no responsibility is taken for the environment, the economic success will degrade. Tourists have options to choose other destinations. It is important to
weigh the challenges and efforts towards success. KV: To invest in renewable energy sources may absorb big budgets but at the end will reward with an ROI for considerable time. As a guest we take it for granted to receive bathroom amenities, but do we question the pollution it creates, the traffic it causes to transport it and the price we pay for it? Are hoteliers willing to take the time to explain this to the guest, offer the choice and make the effort to prepare it on personal request instead of making it an easy polluting costly standard? There are thoughts and choices to make. What message would you like to leave to the ones that may want to follow your footsteps? KV: Do research, listen, talk and ask. It is surprising how little is done and how much is possible. There are so many inspiring people driven by idealism and readiness to play a role in an active process of change, who dedicate their life to progress and wish to share their knowledge. Big or small actions, taking part is being part of the solution. total-management.com 31
photos clockwise from top Š andrey armyagov, Š konstan tin aksenov Š terekhov igor
m ul t if aceted cu ba
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Facing page clockwise from above: Capitol in Havana; Colonial town cityscape of Trinidad, Cuba. UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tower of Museo Nacional de la Lucha Contra Bandidos; Capitol building in Havanna, Cuba Clockwise from above: Beach at Guardalavaca; Man working on Cuba tobacco plantation in Vinales Valley; The Vinales valley in Cuba, a major tobacco growing area; Bohios, in the Sierra Maestra
photos clockwise from top left © richard cavalleri, vojko kavcic merc67/shutterstock.com, kamira
Contentious and beguiling; just two of the words to describe the perplexing island of Cuba. With its white sand beaches, vibrant and eclectic nightlife, colourful Spanish colonial architecture and captivating national dance, this Caribbean island nation, steeped in complex political history and captivating landscapes, is on the cusp of becoming a world class luxury travel destination. Katie Nelson explores this rundown paradise and asks whether it is ready to change pace.
C
uba is a country of indescribable magic. It is well worn but wonderful, rundown but renowned, fun yet frustrating. Behind the sometimes tattered façades, gold dust lingers. These rich contrasts make travel here the exciting, exhilarating ride that it is. Still trapped in a time warp and spinning from an economic embargo that endured for more than half a century, this is a country where for the time being, you can wave goodbye to Western certainties and expect the unexpected. However, with the United States and Cuba having officially resumed diplomatic relations and reopened their embassies after severing ties 54 years ago, we don’t expect this gem to stay untouched for much longer. With that said, this doesn’t mean there is full access for American tourists just yet. If you are an American passport holder looking to travel to Cuba on a whim, you might want to put away that passport and wait a little while longer. Even though this is a new chapter in what’s been a tumultuous history between the two countries, one that took several rounds of negotiations since President Obama announced in December 2014 that the U.S. was changing its Cuba policy; both
contact total management for bookings
the travel restrictions and trade embargo still remain in place. The Treasury Department maintains 12 categories for authorised travel; including family visits, journalistic activity, professional research and public performances among others. So, while some American citizens can get permission to go to Cuba for specific purposes, touring the beaches is not one of them. As an American you will need to travel with a Cuba travel organisation that has an official license from the U.S. State Department, like Insight Cuba. And, while your tour may include stops at museums, historic sites, the Bay of Pigs or a local Communist Party block meeting, purely recreational activities like visiting the beach or scuba diving are prohibited from tour itineraries. These restrictions of course do not apply to other visiting nationalities. Most tourists are able to freely explore the archetypal tableau of revolutionary rhetoric, with classic cars gliding past faded colonial buildings and a population who dance on an endless ribbon of salsa. With its pleasant climate, stunning beaches, magnificent architecture and distinct cultural history, Cuba has long been an attractive destination for tourists. Hav total-management.com 33
still trapped in a time warp and spinning from an economic embargo that endured for more than half a century, this is a country where for the time being, you can wave goodbye to western certainties and expect the unexpected.
So, if you do get a chance to explore this enchanted land make sure to explore as much as there is to offer. Spend some time in Havana, designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The old centre in particular is captivating with its mix of 16th and 17th century Spanish Baroque architecture, neoclassical monuments and charming homes. Other cities worth visiting include Trinidad, Baracoa and Santiago. For a more scenic view of the country, visit Sierra Maestra National Park and climb Cuba’s highest peak. If you’re a fan of cigars, visit the tobacco fields of the Viñales Valley. Cuba’s main beach resort area is Varadero, comprised of 13 miles
Clockwise from above: Varadero beach in Cuba; Small Island Cayo Granma near the Santiago de Cuba, Cuba
of fine white sand beach with an extensive selection of water sports and lined by all-inclusive resorts. Guardalavaca, another of Cuba’s top beach destinations, is near interesting dive and archaeological sites and has some excellent resorts. If you want to get away from it all and don’t mind a lack of facilities, head to Cayo Sabinal, where you’ll find undisturbed beaches tucked away.
photos clockwise from top © kamira, aleksandar todorovic
ing been Spain’s last, oldest, and closest colony until 1898, in the first part of the 20th century Cuba continued to benefit from big investments, creation of industries, and immigration. As relations between Cuba and the United States deteriorated rapidly after the Cuban Revolution and the resulting expropriation and nationalisation of businesses, the island became cut off from its traditional market by the embargo and travel ban imposed on U.S. citizens visiting Cuba. The tourist industry declined to record low levels within two years of Castro’s accession to power. By the mid-1960s the Communist government had banned and eliminated all private property, outlawed the possession of foreign currency, and eliminated the tourist industry all together. With the newly opened embassies and strengthened relationships between America and Cuba we see a major luxury tourist boom on the horizon for Cuba.
Clockwise from above: Capitol from Hotel Saratoga Havana; Bar Mezzanine; Deluxe Patio Room; Panoramic View Rooftop Pool; Fraterny Park from Rooftop Pool
HOTEL PICK H OT E L S A R ATO G A H AVA N A The Hotel is situated just inside the historical centre of the electric and sensual city of Havana.
photos © hotel saratoga
The Saratoga was one of Havana’s most stylish establishments of its time. Notorious since the 1930’s as a favourite haunt of artists and socialites from all over the world, for its superb cuisine, the open air entertainments held in its pavement arcade, and the concerts given there by such renowned musicians as the Anacaona Orchestra. The nowadays Saratoga has been recreated behind the original façade. It combines exquisite style and sense of place as well as state of the art technology. The Saratoga has all the amenities one would wish for in an exclusive city center hotel, including a stunning rooftop pool. The hotel has 96 rooms including 7 suites and various junior suites, and is managed to an international 5-star standard. The Hotel Saratoga is Old Havana’s grandest hotel, having been carefully designed for especially discerning travellers who wish to combine cultural and historical exploration of the city with enjoyment of its world famous nightlife.
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GLOBETROTTER ARCTIC ESCAPE
LAPLAND LUXURY
in
Finland is forever associated with cold, dark winters, Lapland and saunas. Self-deprecating and irreverent people, the Finns like nothing more than having a joke with their guests; a welcoming way of introducing them to the Finnish pace of life. There is something almost playful about their attitude to the winter; it’s cold and there’s little light but there is no way that nature and darkness will spoil their fun. If anything, it’s an excuse to have more. Kakslauttanen illustrates just how the Finns are at one with their very commanding environmental position, and how no amount of darkness can get in the way of enjoying the extraordinary beauty that the country has to offer. Travel Expert Katie Nelson discovers this very charmed winter at one of Finland’s most beautiful Arctic resorts.
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photo courtesy of kakslauttanen arctic resort
ENC HA N T ING F I NL AND
GLOBETROTTER ARCTIC ESCAPE
Facing page: Bird’s eye view of Glass Igloos Clockwise from above: Glass Teepee, Northern Lights over Kakslauttanen, Husky Ride Experience, Snowmobile Safari, Reindeer Safari, Earth lodge (kammi in Finnish)
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photos courtesy of kakslauttanen arctic resort
s you walk through the snow laden gates of Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort, set amidst frosty arctic forests, you realise this is truly a once in a lifetime experience, just as their website boasts. It is a surreal experience like no other. Hidden deep within the arctic wilderness, almost at the northernmost tip of mainland Europe, the landscape is peppered with reindeer farms, picturesque trees, igloos, and skiing slopes. Kakslauttanen is located a mere stone’s throw from the Urho Kekkonen National Park, the largest of Finland’s national parks, along the road to the Arctic sea. The surrounding environment is one of the cleanest you’ll find anywhere in the world. The water is so pure that you can drink straight from a stream running down the fall or the lake into which it flows, and the air is so fresh that you can feel it deep in your lungs. In the summer of 1973, Kakslauttanen’s owner, Jussi Eiramo, was on a fishing trip in Utsjoki, Finland’s northernmost village. On the drive back to central Finland he ran out of fuel and had no choice but to set up camp where he stood; on a roadside in the middle of the wilderness. The place happened to be called Kakslauttanen. For some reason he felt as if he had come home and spent his first summer there in a tent. In the second year, a small cabin was erected on the site and Jussi began to run a café to serve passers-by on their way to North Cape. Little by little, year after year, Kakslauttanen grew. To this day it is still run by Jussi. In November 2015, Kakslauttanen will launch a new accommodation experience that will take your breath away; their Kelo–Glass igloos. These accommodations combine the comforting warmth of their cosy log cabins with the sensational views of their world famous glass igloos. All 16 new Kelo-Glass igloos feature a private sauna, fireplace, kitchenette, and a bedroom with a stunning glass roof. This allows guests to take in the enchanting beauty of the northern lights and the Lappish wilderness from their own private hideaway. • www.kakslauttanen.fi
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WILD WANDERLUST
Bored of the norm and looking for the unusual, travel experts Sarah Weston and Elena Panagia investigate the little known properties that are replacing traditional style hotels and villas in our little black book. Just don’t tell anyone‌
GLOBETROTTER SECLUSION
Facing page: Chalkley’s Treehouse at Lion Sands Game Reserve From top to bottom: The Underwater Room at The Manta Resort; The Cabin at the Treehotel; The Deluxe Pod at Whitepod, Switzerland; Alila Jabal Akhdar; Explora Patagonia
EXPLORA PATAGONIA TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK, PATAGONIA, CHILE The only luxury hotel situated in the heart of the Torres Del Paine national park in Patagonia, which is often hailed as the 8th wonder of the world. Set on the shores of the turquoise waters of Lake Pahoe, this hotel also offers over 50 guided hikes and horseback rides.
THE UNDERWATER ROOM AT THE MANTA RESORT PEMBA ISLAND, ZANZIBAR, TANZANIA A unique private floating island experience that allows you to sleep four meters below sea level, surrounded by Tanzania’s exotic marine wildlife.
LION SANDS GAME RESERVE SABI SAND & KRUGER NATIONAL PARKS, SOUTH AFRICA
photos from facing page © more, © manta resort, © treehotel, © whitepod, © alila, © explora
Known as one of South Africa’s premier private game reserves, this small collection of luxury safari lodges offers a taste of one of the few places on earth that remains untouched. Enjoy the breathtaking views from your private pool, or explore the surrounding national parks on a personalised safari.
ALILA JABAL AKHDAR NIZWA, OMAN Over 2,000 meters above sea level, Alila Jabal Akhdar overlooks a dramatic gorge, surrounded by inspiring views of the Al Hajar Mountains. Comprising of 78 suites and two Jabal Villas with private pools, Alila’s first Middle Eastern property provides a true escape from urban life.
TREEHOTEL EDEFORSVÄGEN, SWEDEN A unique ‘treeroom’ experience allowing its guests to enjoy nature amongst the tree-tops, alongside staying in an individually contemporary designed pod. A serene and isolated setting surrounded by magnificent views, this is ideal for escaping from all aspects of everyday life.
WHITEPOD LES GIE T TES, MONTHE Y, SWIT ZERL AND Whitepod offers a highly exclusive mountain experience. This hi-tech eco camp comprising of just 15 dome pods is situated over 1700 meters high in the Swiss Alps, and with all the facilities you would need, offers the ultimate balance between luxury and adventure. contact total management for bookings
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GOURMAND
Bringing Sexy Back
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s the old adage goes, sex sells. So, it seems like Caprice Holdings are on to a winning formula with their latest offering. Mixing modern art, Asian-inspired cuisine, a provocative name and seductive lighting, Sexy Fish is without doubt bringing a clever combination of jest and allure back to London’s more rigid postcode. Having already worked in some of the capital’s most exciting venues, Sexy Fish Restaurant Director Paul Murashe tells us more about why Mayfair’s hottest new opening is arriving just at the right time. So Paul, can you please answer the question on everyone’s lips. How did the latest Caprice Holdings venue end up with such a colourful name?! Sexy Fish started out as a working title for the project… everybody liked it and it’s certainly memorable! Sexy Fish follows in the footsteps of a number of London venues where modern and experimental art is a key feature. Why do you think food and art link so well? We have some remarkable artwork in the restaurant including: a 13ft Frank Gehry glossy black silicone crocodile; two Damien Hirst exquisitely cast bronze mermaids, rendered in blue patina; twenty Frank Gehry iconic
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Fish Lamps, made from jagged shards of ColorCore; a 15ft bronze relief panel by the artist, in which a mermaid is presented alongside a shark, in reference to one of the most iconic artworks of the twentieth century: Hirst’s, The Physical Impossibility of Death in the Mind of Someone Living (1991), and original, hand cut, collage artwork for the ceiling of Sexy Fish, signed by artist Michael Roberts. Customers are very discerning about their environments and like to surrounded by beautiful things. Sexy Fish has been designed in such a way by Martin Brudnizki Design Studio, as to offset the
photo this page © paul winch-furness photos opposite page © sim canetty-clarke, © paul winch-furness, © david griffen (2)
• a g u i d e t o th e epi c u r ean wor ld •
GOURMAND CULINARY ART
artwork magnificently; for example, the Frank Gehry Fish Lamps above the bar are suspended in front of a flowing water wall. These pieces are talking points… I think that people will be really excited by them. We have wonderful art collections throughout our sister restaurants as well – there has long been an association with great art and artists at Caprice Holdings.
“London currently feels like the undisputed gastronomic capital of the world. A strong declaration indeed, but there is so much going on here. Big name chefs want to be here. Culinary creatives are coming up with different concepts all the time. Fever for single-themed restaurants, pop-ups and nose-to-tail modern British is at its peak. And it’s absolutely the right time to be opening such an adventurous and exciting restaurant as Sexy Fish.” Facing page: Paul Murashe, Restaurant Director Clockwise from top: Buttermilk Popcorn Chicken (with Kimchee Mayonnaise), Damien Hirst mermaid at Sexy Fish, Japrese salad, camone tomato, marinated tofy, shiso, Yellowfin tuna tartare with Japanese yuzu, truffle, soy cured egg yolk, lotus root crisps
You previously held the position of Restaurant Director at Nobu Berkeley Street. What is it about Asian inspired cuisine that you enjoy? The delicacy of the flavours, the beauty of the presentation, the moreish-ness of the dishes… need I go on?! Ben Orpwood, our Executive Chef, is very talented and has a strong team behind him. Pastry, which is not traditionally the forte of Asian kitchens, is being led by Alice Hall, who has some delicious creations on the menu, and is doing some funky soft serve cones, which I’m sure will catch on. I have so many favourites on the menu, but I have a sneaking suspicion that the House Smoked Ora King Salmon may go the way of Nobu’s legendary Black Cod… it’s impossible not to fall for this dish! Does service differ in an Asian-led establishment? The menu is certainly more complex to someone who’s used to having a starter, main and dessert. The à la carte lunch and dinner menus comprise a raw bar, salads, market fish cooked over charcoal, and meat, birds and fish from the Robata grill, tempura, sharing platters, buns, skewers and dumplings… there is great variety in cooking styles and techniques, and all are beautifully plated with wit and style. We have taken all this into account with our comprehensive staff training programme and as long as our staff are knowledgeable, charming and efficient, I think that the service will be as smooth as any traditional British restaurant. You have worked abroad; in Australia for two years, where you worked at The Edge in Sydney and at Madam Jo Jo in Melbourne. What made you want to return to London? I’ve been back in London a long time. I had one of those eureka moments in Australia, whilst reading Wallpaper*. I saw a piece on Nobu and the Met Bar, and was inexplicably drawn to them. Perhaps recklessly, I jumped on a plane back to London and the next minute, I was working at Nobu. London was very vibey then and it was a great time to be at Nobu. It was certainly the hottest restaurant in town. The foodie buzz that started back then has been slowly building since, and has now hit an almost-frenzied level. London currently feels like the undisputed gastronomic capital of the world. A strong declaration indeed, but there is so much going on here. Big name chefs want to be here. Culinary creatives are coming up with different concepts all the time. Fever for single-themed restaurants, pop-ups and nose-to-tail modern British is at its peak. And it’s absolutely the right time to be opening such an adventurous and exciting restaurant as Sexy Fish.
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GOURMAND CULINARY ART
We heard that your first job in hospitality was at the age of 15 as a pot washer. What made you stay in the industry? Hospitality is a GREAT industry and more people need to shout about it. We’re not very good at that in Britain. Elsewhere, people are really proud to work in this industry. I think that the drum is being banged in this country and the image is slowly improving. I work with talented people, I meet interesting customers, I’m surrounded by beautiful art and design and no two days are the same. Even the challenges that arise add to the layers of experience that are required for being a decent manager and I relish them. Does that sound enticing enough?! Can you tell us anything about the new menu and bar? Typical dishes will include Seared yellowfin tuna (with dried miso and wood sorrel) £16.75; Salt and pepper Cornish squid £9.50; Steamed duck egg custard (with crab and sweet corn) £4; Octopus carpaccio (with lime and ginger vinaigrette) £12.50; Gochujang and miso lamb cutlets (with Kyoto cucumbers) £28; Cod tongue and cheek teriyaki £4; Prawn and scallop dumplings (with white ponzu and mustard) £12.75; Miso glazed Chilean sea bass with artichoke £30; Whole monkfish tail (with chilli and lime dressing) £36; and Baby chicken yakitori (with shredded leaf salad) £23. Desserts embrace hints of Asia with concoctions such as Matcha and ginger marble cake (with gingerbread ice cream) £8.50, and White and dark chocolate tofu (with candied cocoa nibs) £9.
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ARTI-FACTS Interesting facts on the restaurant’s exstensive bespoke art collection THE FRANK GEHRY CROCODILE
that crawls the north wall of the dining room is made from M E T A L W I R E , GLOSSY BLACK COLORCORE FORMICA AND SILICONE
and weighs
45 KILOS
has created three site-specific artworks for the restaurant
DAMIEN HIRST
has designed his first commercial commission with the ceiling in the restaurant; it has been created from a bespoke cut-out design carefully P R I N T E D O N T O L I N E N
MICHAEL ROBERTS
P A N E L S A N D P A I N S TA K I N G LY P U T TOGETHER THE DAPPLED GREEN ESMERALDA
is from Iran. It weighs 50kg per m² and there are approximately 2000m² in the building, so that means 1 0 0 , 0 0 0 K I L O S ! ONYX FLOOR STONE
The bar will be overseen by Bar Manager Matteo Cazzaniga and will hold the largest Japanese whisky collection in the UK (130 bottles) – 3rd largest in the world. There will also be an enticing and fun range of classic and inventive cocktails (including Bruce Tea; Miso Thirsty; Dai Kirin; It Wasabi Tricky; Curry Me Home; Kalamasutra Martini; Thai Pirinha), many of which explore the four corners of Asia for inspiration. Other notable cocktails include “The Mother of Pearl Martini” (served with a mother of pearl shell & spoon and Oscietra caviar); and the Bellini bento box for 4 (including Prosecco plus peach, mango & passion fruit, green apple and pear purées). There is also a rare Louis XIII de Rémy Martin – The Black Pearl Anniversary. Sexy Fish is grabbing lots of press attention already, have your warned your neighbours about the queues?! Well, luckily, our neighbours are mostly businesses and we have a great team of Doormen and Maitre d’s, so I’m sure they’ll handle everything beautifully! Caprice Holdings is expanding its family, do you know if there are any more new openings in the pipeline? We’re opening The Ivy Café in Marylebone and then The Ivy Kensington Brasserie on 15 December… that’s enough to keep us busy for the moment!
FRANK GEHRY FISH SCULPTURES
were commissioned for the space and hang from the ceiling above the bar
Paul, where in London do you go for dinner when you’re not in the restaurant? Insider tip?! I’m very fond of Scott’s and The River Café…
GOURMAND BLACKBOOK
IN THE KNOW GOURMAND
Global dining trends; gourmet adventures; US secret destination; international new openings
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photos clockwise from top left © per-anders jorgensen (2), © host, © chris tonnesen
n culinary terms, Denmark’s cool capital Copenhagen just keeps impressing us. Not long ago we only spoke of Noma but this was only the tipping point for a city so famed for its culinary innovation. With a handful of new openings springing up regularly with imaginative young chefs at the helm, the Danes are well aware of their city’s charms which would explain their self-assured, relaxed demeanours. Like the Danes themselves, food in Denmark says what it means and there is little showiness or formality. Danes like to keep things modest and this is translated into every aspect of their culture.
EPICUREAN EUROPE Denmark has long been known for its relaxed attitude to life. Danish design is simplistic, nothing is showy or overdone. When it comes to food however, this Scandinavian country never fails to be serious. We watch on as the land of Noma continues to foster impressive and innovative chefs, venues and attitudes, taking Copenhagen into a new chapter in its culinary journey. Clockwise from top left: Manfreds; Bæst; Höst; Grød
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Among the many unpretentious attractions offered by this eternally easy-going metropolis, the city’s selection of restaurants and bars is steering the Scandinavian capital in the direction of becoming Europe’s gourmet centre, seemingly without even trying. Easily scalable in a long weekend, pintsized Copenhagen for the gourmand traveller is a hedonistic vision of beauty and here’s how it should be best enjoyed: Breakfast; Atelier September (atelierseptember.dk), you will find morning classics such as avocado on Danish rye and mozzarella with lemon and sunflower seeds; Møller - Kaffe og Køkken (kaffeogkoekken.dk), for all your brunch desires, with delectable fried chicken to ease any over indulgence of schnapps you may have shot the night before with your fun-loving Danish friends; Grød (groed.com ), it might be porridge-only but this super cool little street near to Relæ (restaurant-relae.dk) – needs little explanation, just make sure you go - offers a great selection of coffee and
poppy seed pastries to enjoy before taking a walk through the cobbled streets. Breakfast no doubt blended into lunch so let’s skip straight to dinner, you’ve been busy, you deserve it. Number one on our list, Bæst (baest.dk/), the brainchild of Relæ chef Christian Puglisi where pizza and Negroni marry in culinary bliss; Manfreds (manfreds. dk), seasonal, vegetarian focused tasting menu and natural wines; Höst (cofoco. dk/da/restauranter/hoest/), smart, upmarket Danish Design hub, winner of 2014 Design Awards, the epitome of cool Copenhagen. If it all ends here, you’ve nailed it.
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GOURMAND BLACKBOOK
T he C ity of Brotherly Love Something happened over the last decade that turned Philadelphia from culinary scene rookie to professional.
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city steeped in history, founded in 1682 by William Penn and named symbolically after the Greek for ‘the City of Brotherly Love’ to represent the bond between new and old settlers, this region of Pennsylvania still remains host to many different flavours and influences, they just got bigger and are making more noise. American-Ecuadorian Restauranteur-Chef-cum-Sustainable Farmer Jose Garces illustrates how ‘Philly easily lays claim to being an epicurean centre. Introducing a number of concept venues to the region over the past few years, ranging from modern Mexican street food to artisanal American food and drink; Buena Onda (buenaondatacos.com), Distrito (philadelphia.distritorestaurant.com), Rosa Blanca (philadelphia.rosablancadiner.com) and Volvér (philadelphia.volverrestaurant.com), his vision to unite authentic international flavours under one figurative roof seems to have worked. If modern Jewish cuisine needed a trailblazer then Michael Solomonov took the role and his is another name you can’t miss when talking about Philadelphia. Proprietor of some of the city’s hottest venues including Abe Fisher (abefisherphilly. com) and Dizengoff (dizengoffphilly.com), ‘an Israeli Hummusiya’, his restaurant kingdom began with Zahav (zahavrestaurant.com), a modern Israeli restaurant near the waterfront and it doesn’t seem to be slowing down. He can also be held accountable for our sudden dependence on doughnuts and fries in the shape of Federal Donuts (federaldonuts.com). It would be impossible to go to Philadelphia without sampling something of the craft brewery scene. Local producer The Philadelphia Brewing Company (philadelphiabrewing.com), located in the Kensington neighbourhood of Philadelphia offers tours of its tap room and a menu of inventive brews that will keep you occupied for a large chunk of your weekend afternoon. Head there before stopping in at Khyber Pass Pub (khyberpasspub.com), one of Philly’s best loved pubs. contact total management for bookings
photos clockwise from top left © mandritoiu, © the philadephia brewing company, © cook n solo, © cook n solojeff beall, © jason vaney
Clockwise from top left: Philadelphia skyline reflected in Schuylkill River; Philadelphia Brewing Company; Hummus selection at Dizengoff; Chop Salad at Buena Onda; Zahav
GOURMAND BLACKBOOK
photos clockwise from top left © les 110 taillevent london, © paul winch-furness, © quentin bacon, © thomas busk, © issy croker
THE N O W E N WHAT’S RY R ADAR CULINA
Clockwise from above: The Modern Pantry; L’Amico (right); Kødbyens Fiskebar (left); Lurra; Les 110 Taillevent London; Bernardi’s
L’Amico Eventi Hotel, 849 6th Ave, New York Serving an American menu with Italian influences, L’Amico honours the food of Executive Chef Laurent Tourondel. Located at the Eventi Hotel on Sixth Avenue, the restaurant’s menu shows Tourondel’s memories of long Sunday lunches with his Italian grandmother.
Les 110 de Taillevent Coutts Bank, 16 Cavendish Square, London W1G 9DD Les 110 de Taillevent is the more relaxed incarnation of the two Michelin-starred restaurant, which originally opened its doors in Paris. The 110 in its name refers to the number of wines which are available by the glass. The menu has been created by Alain Solivérès, Executive Chef Director of Taillevent Paris; Les 110 de Taillevent London offers a unique opportunity to immerse you in thousands of wines from the prestigious Le Taillevent cellars.
flair and haute cuisine skills.
Lurra
9 Seymour Place, London W1H 5BA
The new restaurant from Stephen Starr and Michelin-starred Chef and Restaurateur Jason Atherton. The Clocktower is located on the second floor of The New York Edition Hotel, located at 5 Madison Avenue, in the iconic Met Life Tower building.
Lurra, meaning “land” in Basque, specialises in the traditional method of cooking so synonymous with the region. The menu will focus on large sharing plates with a European wine list with a special emphasis on Spain. The design reflects the restaurant’s approach of using natural, well-sourced materials. At the rear of the restaurant lies a stunning private courtyard with space for twenty diners in the warmer months.
Metamorfosi
Bernardi’s
Via Giovanni Antonelli 30, Rome, Italy
62 Seymour Street, London W1H 5BN
At the helm of Metamorfosi is Chef Roy Caceres, who loves stirring his customers’ emotions with his creative cuisine. Sous chef John Regefalk pairs Caceres’ artistry with Scandinavian
The restaurant hotspot that is ‘Portman Village’ has gained a new modern Italian courtesy of the Australian-Italian Bernardi brothers. They have created a glamorous all-day venue inspired by the stylish Italian restaurant scene, with a formal ristorante menu and a list of Italian wines. Set over two levels the venue serves up lunch, cicchetti, dinner and evening cocktails with a breakfast/brunch on weekends.
The Clocktower
2nd Floor, 5 Madison Ave, New York
Kødbyens Fiskebar
Flæsketorvet 100, Copenhagen Kødbyens Fiskebar is sardonically sited in the city’s old meatpacking district. It is all about fish and shellfish, fine wine and a great atmosphere. One of the coolest hangouts in Denmark’s capital, add it to your list of places to visit when sojourning in this hip hangout.
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On Your Marks A year or so ago industry whisperers told us that ex St. John duo Tom Harris and Jon Rotheram were up to something; luckily it wasn’t all talk. Living in the heart of Hackney, both chefs wanted to strip back some of the pretentiousness surrounding restaurant dining and bring pub food up a notch to create a well-balanced in between location where you can drink like you’re in a pub and eat well, and no this isn’t your typical gastropub. Cue available site in local area, cue logical takeover of traditional pub. The Marksman was (re)born in June 2015. Isabel Carmichael talks to Tom and Jon about their newfound roles as publicans.
Serving up good quality, traditionally influenced dishes without any pretention was key when they started out solo and as such the site of an old pub, which as the story goes is named after a marksman who protected Admiral Lord Nelson in the battle of Trafalgar, was their natural playground. What was the inspiration for taking on an old fashioned British boozer? We wanted our first venture to be centred on an iconic building with history, believing that successful restaurants are 46 total-management.com
about more than just the food that’s served, that the atmosphere of a place is as important as what people eat. We also didn’t want a fine dining establishment, but rather a place where different people could interact in different ways, whether it’s drinking or eating, or both, listening to music, hanging out and having fun – a place that people would want to come back to again and again. What is the best thing about being based in Hackney? Hackney is alive at the moment, there are new restaurants opening all the time and lots of people wanting to eat good food and drink great drinks. Having worked away from where we live for so long, the best thing is that we are now back, cooking and serving our own community. How much off the menu is inspired by traditional local recipes? The menu doesn’t really draw on specific local recipes, but it’s definitely inspired by the rich culinary history of London food.
photo © ali mobasser
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ossessing sparkling culinary CVs that are dusted with stints at some of London’s most well respected restaurants including St. John Hotel where the team met and which gained a Michelin star in 2012 under their guidance, the Rotheram-Harris effect is not one to be overlooked. They are following in the footsteps, some might say, of their culinary educators and veterans of nose-to-tail cooking Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver.
Facing page: (L-R) Tom Harris and Jon Rotheram
Tell us about your lifestyle as chefs and publicans? We work long hours as chef owners, and having a business located where we live, means that friends and family come in regularly. It’s great to stop for a break and sit at our own bar, and talk to familiar faces; we always wanted a business where that could happen. It allows you to feel connected with the community you we are serving. Before you took over The Marksman, what were the elements of running a pub that you particularly liked and wanted to explore? We always wanted a big bar, a vinyl juke box playing our music; a place where people could hang out and drink as much as eat. There is nothing better than sitting at the bar with a pint and some great bites to eat…. devilled crab on toast, or a beef and barley bun that you tear apart with your hands, something that whets the appetite for another drink. How much time do you spend outside the kitchen sourcing ingredients and produce? When we can, it’s always good to get out and meet our suppliers, but we’re pretty hands-on at the pub, so there’s not as much time for this as we would like. We’ve spent many years developing excellent relationships with suppliers and we trust them to source the best ingredients and produce there is. We’re on the phone to them every day and often adapt our menu to reflect what they can offer.
photo courtesy of the marksman
A lot of restaurants are backing traditional activities such as foraging, what do you think about this trend? We’ve been using foragers for the last 20 years. We don’t particularly see it as a trend; it’s always been part of the way we cook. Would we expect to find you foraging for ingredients when you aren’t in the pub? It’s definitely something we do on holiday, but time doesn’t allow for us to do much ourselves. We have to trust our forager, who we’ve been working with for years, to bring the best of what’s available. What are your favourite British ingredients? Cooked hams, native oysters from Essex, King’s Lynn brown shrimps. Do you make your bread? Yes. All our bread is made in house. We’ve been perfecting a black treacle caraway sourdough that is incredible with our dry cured hot smoked ham, beer mustard and pickles and a milk loaf that perfectly soaks up the juices of our devilled crab.
“Restaurants are like families, you need to nurture and build respect. Consistency and quality come as much from the team you have as the ideas and ingredients you have. And if you look after your people, they tend to stay for a long time, working their way up through different sections and different ranks. The positiveness of this feeds through to customer experience and makes all the difference to how people enjoy themselves.” Is there anything on the menu that we wouldn’t expect to see? Some people might not expect to see curry on a British menu – but it’s there as a nod to British Edwardian club land. Describe a typical day (if there is one) working at the pub? Early start, coffee, menus briefing, on the phone to suppliers, getting the kitchen geared up for service… we both cook and run the business, so the day is a continual swapping of managerial and creative hats. Can you tell us a bit about the design of The Marksman? When we took on the pub, we had no desire to change the look or feel of the ground floor bar, but we knew it needed some love. Everything has just been given a lift and a bit of brass. There is leather on the seats now instead of vinyl with the stuffing coming out, the floor of the toilets are tiled in traditional Victorian mosaic instead of cheap slate and there are fresh flowers every week. The upstairs restaurant is designed with Martino Gamper, a local furniture designer / artist / maker and is in many ways the alter ego of downstairs. We wanted upstairs to be a destination and to not be the poor sibling of downstairs or the clichéd chandelier room, but a place with its own identity that was both connected to downstairs but separate from it. Everything in the room has been designed and made by Studio Gamper; from the tables and chairs to the floor and ceiling and the fabric used for the ceiling was made in collaboration with the London Cloth Company, a micro-mill based in Clapham. total-management.com 47
Who inspires you in the kitchen? Is there a particular chef whom you look up to? We always refer back to the chefs we’ve worked with. Fergus [Henderson] is obviously a huge influence on us. You both have noteworthy culinary institutions on your CVs and met whilst working together at St. John Smithfield. Can you tell us why you think St. John is such a key training ground for up and coming chefs? It teaches a solid foundation of cooking techniques using exceptional ingredients and you’re always kept on your toes, everything changes, every lunch and dinner. It also teaches the importance of writing menus guests want to enjoy rather than being led by what the chef wants to cook. What did your experiences at St. John Smithfield and St. John Hotel, where the restaurant gained a Michelin star teach you? The importance of looking after your staff, inspiring them and creating strong working relationships front and back of house. Restaurants are like families, you need to nurture and build respect. Consistency and quality come as much from the team you have as the ideas and ingredients you have. And if you look after your people, they tend to stay for a long time, working their way up through different sections and different ranks. The positiveness of this feeds through to customer experience and makes all the difference to how people enjoy themselves. Life before food and cooking? Tom: I wanted to be a sound engineer, and had a sound system for years. The plan was to take it to Amsterdam, but then I started cooking at a girlfriend’s mother’s restaurant there and everything changed. Jon: I studied at catering college, and always knew I wanted to be a chef. I guess before that, I was just filling time. Life after food and cooking? Life after cooking 90 hours in restaurants! Now that’s something that might be nice to think about… but food and cooking will always be part of our lives.
Tell us a fact about you (both) not many people would know? Now that would be telling… Do you have a favourite restaurant? Tom: Chez George in Paris. Jon: Cervejaria Ramiro in Lisbon Key elements of service in 5 words? Warmth Respect Knowledge Generosity Empathy What is next on the cards for The Marksman and where can we expect to see you next? We’re still settling in to the pub, but it was always the idea to let the business grow organically, rather than have a pre-ordained roll out plan. I imagine that we’ll stay east, but how the business will evolve into the next chapter is still to be decided. The Marksman, 254 Hackney Road, London E2
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photos from top © ali mobasser, courtesy of the marksman
What would your ideal night out be in London? Where would you start and end up? Jon: start at The Cow for some oysters and Guinness but I’d always want to come back east and would probably have a few cocktails at Peg and Patriot [Bethnal Green] then end up having some amazing Turkish food at Umut 2000 [Dalston]. Tom: early dinner at J Sheekey’s, then let the evening see where it takes me.
GOURMAND TASTE NOTES
DUCK CURRY Recipe by The Marksman
INGREDIENTS
METHOD
70g curry spice Curry paste 1 duck, broken down 2 tomatoes, crushed 1l chicken stock Sunflower oil Salt and pepper
• Season the duck with salt and pepper • Add a little sunflower oil to the bottom of a large pan that can go in the oven and sauté the duck until it gets a golden colour. Remove the duck from the pan and set aside • Add the curry paste to the same pan and cook it on low heat for 40 minutes, until it gets caramelised • Add the crushed tomatoes, and then add the curry spice. Check for seasoning • Cook for a further 10 minutes, then add the chicken stock • Add the duck, take the pan to the oven and cook for 2 hours at 130C
For the Curry spice 3 tbs cumin seeds 2 tbs coriander seeds 3 tbs fenugreek seeds 2 bay leaves 3 tbs turmeric seeds • Toast the spices in a frying pan • Blitz them all together in a blender into a powder
photos courtesy of the marksman
For the Curry paste 6 white onions 1 tbs sugar 200ml sunflower oil 10 chillies 1 thumb ginger, peeled 2 garlic cloves • Pulse all ingredients in a blender until you get a paste At The Marksman, we serve the curry with a roti, and customers often like to have fried potatoes with it on the side. total-management.com 49
GOURMAND TASTE NOTES
QUININE SOUR Recipe by KARAM SETHI, Co-owner of JKS Restaurants Tanqueray Gin, tonic syrup, ginger, fresh curry leaf, lemon and egg white. Two drinks in one, gin and tonic and the sour, combined with ginger and curry leaf flavours. This cocktail is this season’s drink.
INGREDIENTS Fresh Ginger 1”x4” slice Fresh Curry Leaves 3-4 no. Tanqueray Gin 50ml Lemon Juice 25ml Gomme Syrup 25ml Egg White 50ml
METHOD • Mix all ingredients into a shaker • Shake all ingredients together without ice • Add ice and shake • Double strain into a chilled Coupette glass
photo courtesy of jks restaurants
• Garnish with vanilla bitters and a curry leaf
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photo courtesy of jks restaurants
I T ’ S A F A M I LY A F F A I R
The story behind JKS Restaurants The name behind some of the London’s most notable venues, including Michelin-starred Gymkhana and Lyle’s, JKS Restaurants is the understated leader in discovering and fostering varied and innovative cuisine in the culturally diverse UK capital. Headed up by the three eponymous siblings, Jyotin, Karam and Sunaina Sethi, the group’s low-key presence on the restaurant scene has not detracted from the concentrated publicity that they have received since opening their first venue, Trishna in 2008. By ISABEL CARMICHAEL total-management.com 51
GOURMAND KEEP IT IN THE FAMILY
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redited for uniting flavours and cultures and bringing the talents of young chefs such as James Lowe of Lyle’s to the fore, JKS Restaurants prove that the family unit is still going strong.
How does this family manage to work in such harmony? Jyotin Sethi is in charge of the financial side of the business and the marketing, whilst Karam is in charge of concept development, menus and design work. Sunaina heads up the front of house, HR, wine list development and wine buying for which, in recent months, she has been promoting wine tasting activities for women through her ‘Women in Wine’ evenings at Gymkhana. Sunaina Sethi talks to Total Management about the JKS Restaurant family.
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W H AT W E C U R R E N T LY D O I S A L M O S T REFLECTIVE OF WHEN WE WERE GROWING UP AND OUR PARENTS HAD D I N N E R PA R T I ES AT H O M E : J YO, T H E E L D E S T, I S T H E M A N A G I N G D I R E C TOR AND OVERSEES THE BUSINESS, K A R A M H A S A LWAY S B E E N T H E C R E AT I V E O N E A N D W A S M O S T LY I N T H E K I T C H E N , A N D I W A S A LWAY S T H E O N E TA K I N G CARE OF THE DRINKS.
What are the main changes you notice in the hospitality industry since you opened your first venue Trishna in November 2008? I definitely think that the London food scene has continued to go from strength to strength since then. We have seen cooking styles on one hand become more experimental, but also at times stripped back completely. Additionally, traditions have been revived, and [there has been] an influx in lesser known cuisines. There are definitely more women in the industry now compared to when I first started, and I think it is a great thing. It is normal to see women at the helm of a restaurant or kitchen these days. photos courtesy of jks restaurants
Where did your career in hospitality begin? It was purely an accident! When we opened Trishna I was still working for HSBC in Germany. When I returned to London in 2010, I was looking to get into Management Consulting and decided to help out at Trishna until the right opportunity came my way. Within the first few days of being there, I realised that this is what I wanted to do, and there was no going back. As a restaurant group, how do you source ingredients? Does each venue have directorship of sourcing or do you oversee where they obtain supplies? We are fully involved in the sourcing of the ingredients for the Indian side of the business. However on the non-Indian side each venue has 52 total-management.com
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GOURMAND KEEP IT IN THE FAMILY
the freedom to take control of supplies, with our assistance if it is required. What is the process behind partnering with a new venue or chef? How did you go about deciding on your current partnerships with Lyle’s, Bubbledogs, Kitchen Table and BAO? Each of the concepts we have backed involve ideas, people and an ethos which we believe in. Those we have backed have outstanding talent. We share a common passion for high quality food, and are all equally ambitious, as well as being obsessed with all things food, drink and restaurants.
Cover page: (L-R): Karam Sethi, Sunaina Sethi & Jyotin Sethi Facing page; clockwidse from above: Gymkhana, Sunaina Sethi Clockwise from top right: Trishna Interior
What in your opinion is the distinctive theme, if any, through JKS venues? Food is always at the core of everything we do. Which of your venues has the most innovative approach to menu creation? Each venue has its own style and innovates in its own ways. Menus do change regularly, in line with seasonality, but some of the venues change on an almost daily basis.
make wine accessible, not only for people wanting to get into the industry, but also our guests. They should be afraid to experiment and trust their palates. It’s all in the name. Expect to try things you wouldn’t naturally put together. Wine and Indian food; can you tell us something we wouldn’t expect about this pairing? That such a range of different wines can match with our cuisine!
How do you hope your Women in Wine evenings will change the way people think about working in the wine trade? First and foremost I want to dispel any myths there may be about wine not matching with Indian food. Secondly, I want to
photos courtesy of jks restaurants
As siblings, did you always intend to work together? How did you fall upon your individual roles within the group? We would never have predicted that we would have ended up working together! The roles we have fallen into came naturally, in line with our personalities, interests and strengths. What we currently do is almost reflective of when we were growing up and our parents had dinner parties at home: Jyo, the eldest, is the Managing Director and oversees the business, Karam has always been the creative one and was mostly in the kitchen, and I was always the one taking care of the drinks.
Why in your opinion is the wine trade still such a male dominated industry? I disagree that it is still a male dominated industry. I feel, although things aren’t quite equal, we are getting there. It is no longer surprising to see a female sommelier in a restaurant. Historically, the commis sommeliers essentially started off as cellar boys, which made it more difficult for females to perhaps start off in the profession, however that has changed significantly.
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The Bremont Boeing Model 247 and the F/A-18 Super Hornet share the same hardened Custom 465® Steel.
BREMONT BOEING MODEL 247
WE’VE NEVER BUILT A WATCH FROM THIS KIND OF STEEL BEFORE. BUT IT SEEMED TO WORK OUT OKAY ON THE F/A-18 SUPER HORNET. A few years ago the British watch manufacturer Bremont and American aviation giant Boeing, embarked on a development project to build a range of mechanical timepieces that embraced the latest in material and manufacturing research from the worlds of horology and aviation. The result is something remarkably special.