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THE FOOD ISSUE
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TAKE YOUR COAT OFF. AND A LOAD OFF. PULL UP A SEAT. THERE’S PLENTY OF ROOM. THAT’S IT - GET NICE AND COMFY. WE DON’T CARE ABOUT YOUR ELBOWS ON OUR TABLE. ALL SETTLED IN? AND READY TO DIG IN? GOOD. NO CUTLERY? NO WORRIES. AFTER ALL, WHAT WE HAVE HERE IS A FEAST FOR THE EYES. AND HANDS. IT’S MORE FOOD FOR THOUGHT, REALLY, THAN FOOD FOR EATING. EYE CANDY. A HEFTY GUIDE – OF TANTALIZING LOCAL DELIGHTS. INCREDIBLE EATS. INSPIRING REGIONAL CULINARY CHAMPIONS. MUST-VISIT FOODIE DESTINATIONS. TO SATISFY YOUR CRAVINGS ONCE WE’VE SPENT ENOUGH TIME TRIGGERING THEM. WORRIED ABOUT DROOLING? DON’T FRET. THESE SEVENTYPOUND SHEETS WILL ABSORB ALMOST ANYTHING. AFTER ALL, THEY’RE STRONG ENOUGH TO SOAK UP ALL THE HARD WORK AND HARD EATING WE’VE BEEN ABLE TO THROW AT THEM THESE PAST FEW MONTHS. OUR EXPERIENCES. AND INVOLVEMENT. OUR STRATEGIC OBSERVATION AND REPRESENTATION. OF THIS REGION. KITCHENER-WATERLOO TO GUELPH; WELLINGTON COUNTY TO HAMILTON. BROOKLYN TO BERLIN. HEY YOU. EAT IT UP. WELCOME TO THE FOOD ISSUE.
CONTENTS 9. EDITOR’S LETTER: THE FOOD ISSUE 14. G RAFFITI MARKET: WELCOME TO YOUR NEW LOCAL 26. T HINKING BACKWARDS: FAMILY, COMMUNITY, AND GREAT THAI FOOD IN GUELPH 30. DAYTRIPPIN’ WITH MATTHEW FORBES 34. MEET YOUR MAKER: REIDS CHOCOLATES 36. C ANOES, KEGS & CAMARADERIE: NAVIGATING OUR REGION WITH ELORA’S FINEST 48. HAMILTON'S DONUT MONSTER: CATCH ONE IF YOU CAN 56. FEATURE: TO PRESERVE & FERMENT 60. THE NEW SCHOOL: MASTERS OF CULINARY EYE CANDY 70. EXPERT OPINION (INVESTMENT): WILL MACTAGGART 72. T WH SOCIAL: UNDERGROUND DIGS FOR UPSCALE COMFORT FOOD 80. FEATURE: #FOODPORN OPEN WIDE 88. POLESTAR HEARTH AND SOURDOUGH BREAD: A REVOLUTIONARY PAIR 92. MORE THAN SOURDOUGH: PIE BY NIGHT 96. U NCOVERING WELLINGTON COUNTY: BEST BAA DAIRY 98. G ETTING TO KNOW: 'BREWING CHANGES GUELPH' EXHIBIT 100. MEET YOUR MAKER: FOURQUARTER BUTCHER SHOP 104. ANATOMY OF A BRAND: MERIT BADGE DOUGHNUTS 106. # PHOTOESSAY: A NORTHERN PILGRIMAGE 117. MEET YOUR MAKER: LEGACY GREENS 118. JAPANESE SOUL FOOD: IZNA DONBURI HOUSE 126. C AFFEINE & MOTORCYCLES: FINDING HEAVEN AT STEELTOWN 134. FEATURE: #CIDERLOVE 144. MANHATTANS: WHERE PEOPLE WANT TO BE 150. G ETTING TO KNOW: REN NAVARRO 154. MORE THAN A FARM DISTILLERY: WILLIBALD'S NEW MENU 160. COMIC: GOOSE 162. SANDWICHING 101
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14 BE LM ON
V T A E W
WELC OME T O YO U R NE W L O C A L BY CHRIS TIESSEN ‘It’s even better than I thought it could be,’ I
‘The Pizza Show’ on the Motor City and its
blurt out to restauranteur Ryan Lloyd-Craig
own unique pies. Extra thick but amazingly
between bites. ‘And I expected it to be pretty
light crust with a crispy caramelized bottom.
incredible.’ I chew some more, and then
Toppings layered upside down. Rectangular-
look down at my hands. They’re definitely
shaped from the blue steel pans in which
active participants in this experience. Melted
they’re baked. I’m beginning to understand
mozzarella and brick cheeses run down
why my mom – a bit of a foodie herself –
my index finger. Caramelized onion clings
declares this pizza to be the most delicious in
to my thumb. I feel a bit of what must be
town. (She, of course, eats it with a knife and
braised collard greens on my face. ‘You’ve got
something on your cheek,’ Ryan confirms with a grin, before adding: ‘It’s never easy eating one of these things neatly.’ Nor should it be.
I take another bite. And let rich flavours of pulled chicken and smoked bacon dance around in my mouth. Barbecue sauce mingled
One of these things? Pizza. Detroit-style.
with roasted garlic aioli threatens to move
Something I’ve been dying to try since
from my palm down my wrist. ‘We make it
Munchies’ Frank Pinello did an episode of
in-house,’ continues Ryan, referring to the
16 delicious sauce, ‘with our coffee porter. Which
Co, and named after the converted railway
we brew in-house.’ He pauses, before adding:
line that runs beside the place. I’m swept
‘With coffee beans that are roasted in-house.’
away by waves of tropical fruit with citrus
A veritable circular food economy, then. At
and peach undertones. I look across the
Kitchener’s Graffiti Market – the most recent
restaurant toward the brewery, which takes
brainchild of Ryan and his Ignite Restaurant
up a substantial portion of the far-left corner
Group business partner (and brother-in-law),
of the space, and spot Red Circle head brewer
Brett Croft – perfectly cropped jet-black beard
The space is definitely something to write home about. Indeed, with 10,000 square feet of craft brewery, bottle shop, produce market, vinyl outlet, ice cream parlour, pop-up stall,
and all – and his right-hand man, the hulking Shane Denison, hard at work. I catch Brett’s eye and, before I know it, he’s on his way over with samples for the table.
swag post and, let’s not forget, restaurant,
First up: ‘Isla,’ a wet hopped pale ale that’s
Graffiti is in a category all its own. ‘And that’s
brewed, Brett tells me, ‘with New Zealand
not including the roastery and bakery just
rakau hops.’ Stunningly good. Next on board:
across the hallway,’ adds Neil, who has joined
‘Cherry Blaster’, a gose with lactobacillus,
us for lunch. Bonkers.
coriander and sea salt. And cherries. Lots of
I wipe my hands on a napkin and take a swig of something special: an ‘Iron Horse Trail’ IPA brewed (you guessed it: in-house) by Graffiti Market’s very own Red Circle Brewing
cherries. ‘Brewed with our friends at Nickel Brook,’ Brett notes of the stuff as he hands me a small glass. ‘We aged it with three hundred pounds of Niagara sour cherries
WH AT ’S S O U N I Q U E A BO U T D ET R O I T - ST Y L E P I ZZ A ? 18
1. T HE PAN – Detroit-style pizzas are baked in rectangular blue steel pans (like the ones you’d find in automotive factories)
2. T HE
CHEESE – while the choice of cheese tends to be subjective, the team at Graffiti Market insists that their Detroit-style pizzas are topped with Brick cheese
3. I T’S UPSIDE DOWN – like deep-dish pizza from Chicago, Detroit-style pizzas put the toppings on upside down, with the sauce on top
HYDRATION – Detroit-style pizza dough uses more water for thicker, fluffier results
5. L OCAL
INGREDIENTS – at Graffiti Market, there’s an emphasis on quality local ingredients by local makers
before dry-hopping it with galaxy and citra
firmly inside the even bigger expanse of
hops.’ As I attempt to envision what three
Kitchener’s magnificent Catalyst137 maker
hundred pounds of cherries might look like,
space. ‘In fact,’ he notes, ‘our first visions of
Ignite Restaurant Group’s culinary director,
Graffiti Market were for an intimate pizza
Brian McCourt, who’s also joined our table,
joint at another location altogether.’ Ryan
jumps into the conversation: ‘We try to
continues: ‘But the concept kept growing, and
incorporate as many of Brett’s beers into our
then the opportunity to locate at Catalyst fell
recipes here at Graffiti as possible. From the
into our lap.’ He pauses, before adding: ‘It’s a
[aforementioned] barbecue sauce made with
good thing we went this big because even with
our porter, to our house mustards fermented
a capacity of over three hundred we’re getting
with Brett’s pilsner, to our mussels prepared
slammed every Thursday, Friday and Saturday
with his blonde ale, to our bread baked with
nights. Folks are waiting for tables up to forty-
his porter – we try to maintain as much of a
five minutes. And coming back again the next
circular food system as possible.’
night – with friends.’
Brian continues: ‘What we’ve got here is
As I finish the last piece of my Detroit-style
special. A restaurant with its own brewery. A
pizza and nod in affirmation, I recall a line
brewery with its own roastery. A roastery with
from Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet: ‘He that
its own bakery. A bakery with its own produce
cannot lick his fingers goes not with me.’ I
market. And a market with its own restaurant.
have no trouble at all understanding why folks
All collaborating with each other in a way that
line up here, every weekend, for all of this
hasn’t been seen in these parts – or almost anywhere, for that matter.’ Incredible, really. And spectacularly ambitious. ‘It wasn’t always supposed to be this big,’ Ryan remarks as he catches me gazing across the impressive space – which is itself planted
* Ryan and Neil’s other projects include downtown Kitchener’s The Rich Uncle Tavern (formerly The Berlin) and Conestogo’s soon-to-be-opened Crowsfoot Cider House. They’re definitely not sitting on their hands, then.
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TH I N KI N G BACKW A RD S :
FAMILY, COMMUNITY, AND GREAT THAI FOOD IN GUELPH
26 VIC TO RIA
BY GUEST CONTRIBUTOR JONATHON BARRABALL
There is a little yellow house on York Road in
In 2013 she opened ‘Love at First Bite!’, a small
Guelph, just before the intersection at Victoria.
food stall in the Guelph Farmer’s Market.
It wasn’t always yellow – it used to be red brick,
And then, shortly after, another stall in the
home to a small Portuguese Piri Piri restaurant.
Aberfoyle Market. In 2015 she finally achieved
After the ownership changed hands, a new
her dream of opening a restaurant – albeit a
sign went up on that freshly painted yellow
cozy one, take-out and catering – with half a
house, which read ‘Na-Ha-Thai’s Kitchen,’ and
dozen seats and fewer parking spots.
it wasn’t long before everyone was telling me about ‘the new Thai place’ in Guelph. After my first visit I pledged to join those growing ranks of loyal Na-Ha-Thai patrons who declare this to be really good Thai food.
Naruemon recently had TOQUE in to Na-HaThai’s Kitchen for a lunch that quickly revealed what sets her restaurant apart. Everything she made for us was amazing. I could readily see why pad ga pow – a Thai street food staple
Naruemon, the owner of Na-Ha-Thai’s Kitchen,
featuring ground pork stir-fried with holy basil,
moved to Canada just over a decade ago from
and served with stingingly spicy fresh chili
Thailand, where she worked as a researcher
sauce, steamed rice, fresh vegetables, and
in sustainable agriculture at Chiang Mai
a fried egg on top – is the most popular dish
University. Language barriers made it difficult
in Thailand. Khao soi, Naruemon’s personal
for her to find similar work here, so she turned
favourite, was unbelievable – firm egg noodles
to her lifelong passion for food and cooking.
in a delicately spicy coconut curry broth, with
chicken, beef, shrimp, red onion, cilantro, and garnished with crispy fried egg noodles. ‘Na-Ha-Thai’s is authentic Thai food, made from scratch by Thai people,’ Naruemon told me. ‘We use organic ingredients everywhere that it’s possible. Our food is healthy, and we try our best to make everyone feel welcome, whether dairy-free, gluten-free or vegan.’ In order to be able to return to Thailand regularly, Naruemon closes the restaurant for a month every summer. ‘Those trips are for two reasons: family and research,’ she told me: ‘I like to keep up to date and bring back new ideas for the restaurant, but for me family is the most important thing.’ So that everybody who works at Na-Ha-Thai can rest and see their families, the restaurant is closed two days a week. ‘I like to think backwards,’ Naruemon told me. ‘I do what I love first and foremost – food, family, sharing – and business and profits come after.’ Owning a restaurant isn’t easy, especially when it serves a specific ethnic cuisine. Expectations and pre-conceived notions of Thai food all too often force these types of restaurants to serve a diluted, Westernized version of their homeland’s dishes. But Naruemon maintains that she wants to continue ‘to share real Thai food with people – especially dishes from Chiang Mai because it’s so beautiful and diverse.’ If
understand why there’s a two and a half hour wait for take-out on Friday nights. ‘The community has been so supportive and people can be so patient,’ she gratefully sighs. ‘Good
food takes time, and there are just so many orders on a busy night!’
NA-HA-THAI’S KITCHEN 471 YORK RD, GUELPH
A L AZ Y S U ND A Y FROM BROOKLYN TO B E R LIN ( AN D B AC K AGAIN )
PROPRIETOR AT ‘MATTHEW’S BARBERSHOP’
Matthew Forbes is a man about Guelph. Indeed, it seems there aren’t many Royal City residents who don’t know this former coffee-slinger-turned-barber. And while Matthew spends six days a week cutting hair at his Macdonnell St business, Sundays are for touring – from Brooklyn to Berlin. Wanna know Matthew’s fave haunts? Just follow along:
1. Sunday mornings begin at The Common
T H E C OMMO N
in downtown Guelph. The owner, Kia, is good
36 WILSON ST, GUELPH
people – as are her beautiful staff. I order a ‘Jewel of India’ black tea with milk and a touch of sugar, as well as something sweet or savoury (mood dependent) from Rockwood’s Goodfellows Field to Fork. I pay with cash,
B U T C HE R S HO P AND GR O C E R IE S
chat with friends, collect hugs, and move on.
219 SILVERCREEK PKWY N, GUELPH
2. Next stop is Butcher Shop And Groceries.
This halal grocery is where I buy hibiscus flowers to make the best blood pressurereducing tea. There’s so much more to this out-of-the-way business – but I restrict myself to hibiscus for my tea.
3. It’s still early, and I drive down the 7 T HE YE T I
toward Kitchener for more hearty fare. My destination: The Yeti. While everything on
14 EBY STREET N,
the menu is phenomenal, I settle on ‘The
Brekkie’ – eggs any way I like them, choice of meaty deliciousness, potatoes of some sort, and beautiful tomato, avocado, fresh fruit,
X - DI S C - C M U SIC 7 MOYER PL, KITCHENER
halloumi, salad, bagel or thick crust sourdough toast. The food’s incredible. The vibe’s just as delicious.
4. At X-Disc-C Music there are records everywhere. In racks. On shelves. Stacked. Piled. Leaning. Each time I visit I spend about forty minutes browsing. Until I’m overwhelmed. Sometimes I buy stuff. Other times I don’t.
5. After shopping for vinyl I stop for lunch at Mi Tienda Latina – a family-run Latin American grocery store and restaurant where you order in Spanish through a small hole in the kitchen wall. While the papusas and tamales de pollo are phenomenal, I
MI TI ENDA LATI NA
usually settle for the soup of the day and
103 ONTARIO ST S, KITCHENER
whatever giant chunks of meat and vegetable accompany it. I eat at the communal table, chatting with strangers who soon become friends.
Being stuffed from my hearty lunch
doesn’t stop me from perusing the desserts
CAFÉ P Y RU S
at Café Pyrus – organic, vegan, delicious. I
16 CHARLES ST W, KITCHENER
choose something amazing and settle into a cozy spot in the dining area, and read something local.
7. Time for exercise. So off to the Huron Natural Area – an amalgam of forest, streams, trails and meadows, lookout areas and boardwalks that comprise Kitchener’s largest and most valuable natural space. Along with other hikers, joggers, photographers and bird watchers, I find myself rejuvenated and refreshed as I move through the great outdoors.
8. I drive back to Guelph for an afternoon siesta. (Midday napping is an indulgence worth taking up.) As evening approaches
H URON NATURAL AREA 801 TRILLIUM DR, KITCHENER
SH AWARMA.G 328 SPEEDVALE AVE E 31A, GUELPH
it's off to Shawarma.G, a new shawarma restaurant in Guelph that’s run by Syrian refugees. While I observe them preparing
my authentic Syrian food, I reflect on our common pleasure in this region we all call home
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CA N OES , KEGS & C A M A R A D E R I E : ED D ES
NAVIGATING OUR REGION WITH ELORA’S FINEST BY CHRIS TIESSEN ‘This really did seem like a good idea when
kegs of Elora’s finest from the downtown
we first came up with it,’ I comment to Elora
brewery to Kitchener’s Lancaster Smokehouse
Brewing Company’s Jenna Harkness while
and, afterwards, the Blackwing Coffee Bar in
we tread ever so gingerly across a thin
column of slippery rocks toward a larger cluster of boulders in the middle of the river. A biting wind surges up my sleeves and down my neck. My bare hands – clenched tightly
Our delivery route: the Grand River. Our means of transport: canoe.
to my camera and gear – burn with cold.
Why? Because Elora brewer Mike Brooks
About twenty feet out from the safety of the
thought it would be awesome. (But really – what
shoreline, my right foot mistakes a clump of
doesn’t that guy find awesome?) And because
autumn leaves floating on the water’s surface
when Mike first presented this dream to me
for solid ground and plunges into the drink.
over a couple pints of Elora Borealis – months
‘Not so much any more,’ I add. And then, as
before, on a hot, sunny, summer afternoon at
I pull my frigid sopping foot from the water,
the brewery – I thought it’d be awesome, too.
ask no one in particular: ‘Whose idea was this,
(Like Mike, I’m a glutton for awesome.) Surely
this would be a fun way to further convince
It’s not even nine in the morning. Late October. Wisps of white from the year’s first snowfall still linger in places on the cold ground. My foot is ice. My only dry pair of shoes is back in Guelph. And this adventure has only just begun. The objective? To deliver
folks that our region of communities – Elora, Guelph, Kitchener-Waterloo, Galt, Hamilton and everything in between – can, and should, be traversed. Regularly. Seamlessly. Always. And what better way to do it than on our region’s most majestic waterway: the Grand River. Fantastic.
‘EVER Y O NE M U S T B E L I E V E I N SO MET HIN G. I BEL IE V E IN C AN O E I N G . ’ - H E N R Y D AV I D T H ORE AU
me, shouldering a keg of Three Fields Lager.
navigating the Grand – from Elora’s awe-
Almost at that crop of boulders in the middle
of the Grand. Brooksy behind – hauling a canoe
Inverhaugh, West Montrose, Winterbourne,
and some paddles. And behind him Elora’s
Conestogo, Bloomingdale, to what would
John Laurencic and Erin Gurr accompanied by
be our first stop at The Lanc – had certainly
TOQUE’s Cai Sepulis and our colleague, Sonia
filled me with delight. ‘We’ll deliver our first
Preisler. Dragging more gear. And breakfast,
keg and stop for lunch there,’ Brooksy had
too – to be enjoyed in the middle of the river
suggested exuberantly. I recall images of
before we head downstream.
brisket, ribs, pigtails, cheesy grits and collard greens dancing through my head. And Elora beer. ‘And then,’ he’d continued, ‘we’ll carry on to Blackwing in Galt for another keg delivery. With full bellies.’ I imagined this second half of our route. Past Kitchener. Through Breslau. Alongside Preston. We would glide into Galt past nineteenth-century limestone buildings and picturesque riverbanks that were most recently made famous on the small screen in the adaptation of Margaret Atwood’s ‘The Handmaid’s Tale’. Fantastic. Idyllic. Dreamy. Fast forward to now. On this cold October morning. Grey. Wet. Dreary. Jenna ahead of
Thankfully, the gorge’s towering cliffs all around us offer at least a wee bit of shelter from the wind, so our mighty crew settles in (so to speak) to discuss strategy while we dig in to fresh cinnamon buns from Elora Bread Company and coffee from our friends at Blackwing. It becomes apparent soon enough that our appetite for what’s estimated to be a nine-hour voyage down the Grand in the biting cold isn’t quite as voracious as our appetite for cinnamon buns. And so it’s not long before I muster the temerity to ask a question that is surely on everybody’s mind: ‘Why don’t we just drive?’
42 Which is what we end up doing. Not the
fulfilled I feel – despite our seeming complete
whole way, of course. That would be cheating.
failure to live up to the dreams of that summer
Instead, after transporting our canoes much
afternoon over pints with Brooksy. Because
of the way, we manage to drop them back into
we did something here. We planned. And
the water in Kitchener – to experience what it’s
gathered. And executed a version of our initial
really like to deliver a keg by canoe to The Lanc.
fantasy – to traverse our region from one end
(It’s more difficult than you might think.) And
to the other. A somewhat meager version,
to enjoy heaping plates of meat. And we fully
to be sure. But still. And we’ll be back – to
intend to put those stalwart vessels back in
execute this entire trip. By canoe. On some
the water in Galt, too. To paddle up to our final
long summer day in the not-too-distant future.
destination – Blackwing. But we don’t. Instead, after we’ve stuffed ourselves with pigtails and grits, we drive in convoy to Blackwing where owner Katherine Chiles greets our crew with coffee and treats. And bourbon too.
As laughter and conversation of the day’s adventure fill our cozy Blackwing nook, I look out one of the large plate-glass windows towards our cluster of cars parked outside. And, focusing on the canoes lashed to their
It’s almost five o-clock. And, as the bunch of us
roofs, I chuckle. And then look over at Brooksy,
collapse into a glorious horseshoe of leather
who’s perched himself on an upright keg of
couches and chairs at this most awesome
Three Fields. And, raising my pint to him, I
Galt coffee and craft beer destination, I’m
exclaim: ‘We did something today.’ He meets
embarrassed by how exhausted I feel. After all,
my eyes, raises his bourbon, and affirms
I sheepishly think to myself, we didn’t spend
heartily: ‘We sure did.’
more than a trickle of minutes on the water. But I’m also struck by something else: how
We sure did
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N A VE
E S T S
HAMILTON’S DONUT MONSTER: CA T C H O N E I F Y O U CA N BY CHRIS TIESSEN ‘What should we grab?’, I ask TOQUE Partner
amazing too. And I’ll need to try the Beeramisu
Cai Sepulis as we work our way closer to the
- and let Grain & Grit’s Joe and Lindsay know
front of the line – a line that keeps growing
how it is. And some for my kids, too, who can
behind us. ‘The Matcha Mint White Chocolate
never get enough of what my four-year-old
looks fantastic,’ she says. ‘I’ll probably get
calls ‘the donut monsters.’ (I can already hear
one of those - and maybe a Beeramisu.’ I
her little voice when she sees the box: ‘Did you
peer through the glass case at the donut
get us the donut monsters, daddy?’ It kills me.
Cai’s pointing to - a gorgeous specimen with
Every time.) ‘Let’s be sure to get enough for
rich mascarpone cream filling infused with
a box,’ I tell Cai. ‘I love their boxes.’ And their
Hamilton brewery Grain & Grit’s double
cups. And everywhere this place – Hamilton’s
chocolate stout and topped with cocoa dusted
storied Donut Monster – puts its distinctive
cream cheese icing capped with a chocolate-
covered espresso bean. My mouth begins to water.
‘We worked with Burlington's Insite Design to flush out the visual representation of the
As the couple ahead of us places their order,
customer experience,’ Donut Monster founder
I need to think fast. I want a Classic Apple
Reuben Vanderkwaak tells me when, on
Fritter for sure. And the Double Almond looks
another visit, I ask him about it. ‘They do a lot
of work with breweries and wineries around
the sense the donut monster is on its quest.
the Niagara region.’ He continues: ‘Most of the
Always lurking. Searching. For donuts.
agencies we approached immediately began creating central monster characters - but I wanted something more subtle,’ he explains. ‘Insite crafted amazing illustrations and built a story around the brand – which had only existed visually as a logo up to that point.’
In the beginning Donut Monster really was an elusive product. That was when Reuben, a former graphic designer and avid cyclist, first began developing his donuts out of his home. He was a stay-at-home dad to a two- and fouryear-old then and his distinctive confections,
Reuben waxes eloquent when we talk about
inspired by the donut shops Reuben and his
his logo: ‘To me, the donut monster represents
family discovered during a hefty cycling tour
a phenomenon we experienced in our early
across America, were a distraction from child
days when folks would scour our distributors
rearing. Those early donuts were distributed
in search of our product. We tended to sell out
only to close friends and family who – as you
really fast, so people started mythologizing
can imagine – were only too happy to serve
the journey to find our donuts. The donut
as his guinea pigs. When it became apparent
monster is always pursuing donuts but rarely
that Reuben’s culinary wares were a hit – and
finding them. There’s a seductive, elusive
could become the focus for a business – he
quality to it all.’ A quality that’s manifested in
sought out a commercial kitchen and, in 2015,
the illustrative elements of those boxes, and
co-founded The Kitchen Collective, a non-
cups, I find so appealing. Bits of hands, or
profit co-op kitchen that serves as a culinary
fur, or other parts of the monster, are made
incubator of sorts.
visible. Poking through. Here and there. Never fully realized. Just enough detail that you get
After an initial showing at the Hamilton Flea, it wasn’t long before Reuben was baking donuts out of this kitchen and delivering them to a handful of spots across Steeltown – including The Cannon, RELAY Coffee Roasters and Vintage Coffee Roasters. And on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays only. ‘This seemed to work for a while,’ reminisces Reuben, ‘but not for long.’ He chuckles, recalling those early days. ‘We sold out so quickly that it became apparent we’d need to expand. And so, in our first two years, we found ourselves increasing distribution from three locations one day a week to twenty-five locations multiple days each week – across Hamilton, Dundas, Burlington and the Mountain.’ And increased demand didn’t just require more circulation. It also put a strain on Donut Monster’s kitchen situation. Indeed, by 2017 almost thirty aspiring and small businesses used the kitchen as their own, and Reuben simply found himself needing more space. Which is where this gorgeous Locke Street location, opened January 2018, comes in. With these exposed brick walls. And leather-back seats with belt buckle accents. And painted tables and murals decorated with bits of the donut monster. And this line-up. And Cai and me up at the front ordering donuts. I make final decisions – which is not easy with twenty flavours from which to choose. Behind the counter a small army of Donut Monster employees – in various flavours of hipster – are working dutifully and with purpose. I spot Reuben in the back – a cycling cap perched atop his head. I wave – and he returns the salutation. Cai and I grab our box of donuts – as well as a seat near the window. After all, there’s no way we’re leaving without first enjoying the fruits of our labour. Of our pursuit. Of these elusive donuts. I dive into a pear walnut
armagnac fritter and, my mouth stuffed with donut, breathe a sigh of relief. The chase is over. For today, at least
DONUT MONSTER 246 LOCKE ST S, HAMILTON
P + P = 40 2
When passion for beautiful design combines with the desire to provide an exceptional experience, and you add wonderful customers served by devoted associates, you are delighted to celebrate 40 years! As brothers and business partners for four decades, we have been on an incredible journey that has brought many meaningful relationships into our lives. To all those who have supported us and entrusted us with their most cherished moments and milestones, we thank you.
Greg & Jeff Buzbuzian
G U E L P H â&#x20AC;˘ OA KV I L L E â&#x20AC;˘ TO R O N TO
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CHAG A K O M B Live Kombucha Made in Gue lph Available at: Market Fre sh, Guelph
The Ch ag a mus hr oom s a r e w i l d - g r own & foraged in No r t h e r n O nt a r i o
BOURBON B E R R Y J A M (top) & RED ONION M A R M A LA D E ( b o t t o m ) Ambrosia Pastry Co. Made in Wate rl oo Available at: Le gacy Gre e ns, Kitchener
WIL L IB AL D HO N EY Bee ke e ping It Rea l & Willibald F arm Distillery Ma de in Ayr A v ai lable at: W i l libald Farm Distillery, Ayr
Will ib al d h a s ove r 2 mil li o n bee s l ivi ng i n 40 h ives o n thei r 5 acr e la vend er ﬁe lds – thi s hon ey i s made by those b ees!
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January 24-27, 2019 · Guelph Presenters
Friday, January 25
Experimental vocalist and artist Tanya Tagaq won the 2014 Polaris Prize for best Canadian album, Animism. Her first book, Split Tooth, folds memoir with fiction, traditional stories with reality, and poetry with prose. Dark and rapturous, Split Tooth does with words what Tagaq’s music does without, sweeping the reader into a space where life’s artificial constructs hold no claim. Tagaq has spoken of her musical improvisation as a never-ending thread pulled through the needle’s eye; set in a part of the world where a year can feel like one long day, Split Tooth is a rich and startling expression of this continuum, a striking metaphysics that informs Tagaq’s art across forms.
From the author of the awardwinning international best seller, Half-Blood Blues, comes a dazzling adventure story about a boy who rises from the ashes of slavery to become a free man of the world. Washington Black was shortlisted for the 2018 Man Booker Prize, and is a finalist for the Rogers Writers’ Trust Fiction Prize. It won the 2018 Scotiabank Giller Prize.
The internet led to the slow death of newsrooms, substituting journalistic institutions with free fake news and celebrity reporting. It let American digital behemoths raid our privacy, sell our private data for unprecedented profits, and pay no taxes. It empowered hate-mongers and populists, poisoned public discourse, divided us into quarrelling tribes, devalued truth, and undermined liberal democracies. Haroon Siddiqui, editorial page editor emeritus of the Toronto Star and distinguished visiting professor at Ryerson University, surveys the ruins and suggests some ways forward.
With a reading from her new memoir, Split Tooth
Presenting her latest novel, Washington Black
Tickets and more information:
Sponsors Get Noticed. Get Found.
Social Media, Populism and the Crisis of Democracy
#FOOD P OR N TH E N EW S CHO O L :
MASTERS OF CULINARY EYE CANDY WE EAT WITH OUR EYES FIRST. AND, IN TODAY’S SOCIAL MEDIA AGE, I’D HAZARD A GUESS THAT QUITE OFTEN WE EAT – OR INGEST – WITH OUR EYES ONLY. NEED PROOF? DO A CURSORY SEARCH OF THE HASHTAG #FOODPORN ON INSTAGRAM AND WATCH YOUR (APTLY-NAMED) FEED FILL WITH ALMOST ONE HUNDRED AND EIGHTY MILLION BITE-SIZE IMAGES OF VIS UALLY-TITILLATING, DRO OL-INDUCING EATS.
INDEED, IT’S ALMOST AS THOUGH THE CELLPHONE HAS USURPED THE KITCHEN KNIFE AS A COOK’S MOST VALUABLE CULINARY TOOL. IN OUR REGION, THERE EXISTS A SMALL HANDFUL OF YOUNG CHEFS WHO ARE ELEVATING THE FOOD PRESENTATION GAME TO NEW HEIGHTS. WITH DISHES THAT ARE EQUAL PARTS MINIMALIST, WHIMSICAL AND MISCHIEVOUS, THESE COOKS ARE CREATING AESTHETIC MASTERPIECES THAT SERVE TO BE PHOTOGRAPHED, POSTED AND DEVOURED WITH OUR EYES AS MUCH AS THEY BEG TO BE CONSUMED BY OUR MOUTHS. OVER THE PAST LITTLE WHILE, TOQUE MANAGED TO TURN THE CAMERA’S EYE AWAY FROM THE FOOD AND ONTO FOUR OF THESE COOKS – AS MUCH VIS UAL ARTISTS AS CULINARY MASTERS. TAKE A GOOD LOOK. AND REMEMBER THESE FACES.
‘ART IS NOT WHAT YOU SEE, BUT WHAT YOU MAKE OTHERS SEE.’ -EDGAR DEGAS
Elizabeth Street Eatery Chef de Cuisine Zach Stachyra puts the finishing touches on a most exquisite beet salad
R Y A N DELEO N ,
C H E F D E C U I SI NE Quatrefoil Restaurant, Dundas quatrefoilrestaurant.com
Sometimes life comes with a little turbulence.
E M IL Y S CH LI EPER ,
S OU S C H E F Arabella Park Beer Bar, Kitchener arabellaparkbar.com
Your investments need to adapt with you.
J OE Y BO RN I N O ,
C H E F & OW NE R Elizabeth Street Eatery, Guelph elizabethstreeteatery.com
We are your navigators.
Financial leadership for your future.
Richardson GMP Limited, Member Canadian Investor Protection Fund. Richardson is a trade-mark of James Richardson & Sons, Limited. GMP is a registered trade-mark of GMP Securities L.P. Both used under license by Richardson GMP Limited.
#winterready 30 Arrow Rd, Guelph, ON
THE RIGHT INVESTMENT RECIPE LETS YOU EXPERIMENT FROM TIME TO TIME WILL MACTAGGART
EXPERT OPINION | INVESTMENT
We all know there are various types of home cooks. Among them are people who meticulously follow a recipe, carefully measure ingredients, and diligently set timers. These folks clean as they go, and their kitchen remains tidy and organized. They leave little margin for error, and their results are predictable, reliable, satisfying. Then there are the “no recipe shall contain me” types, the cooks who pull all available ingredients out of the fridge, and then dive in. They follow the fundamental principles of cooking and seem to know which ingredients work well together, but they go their own way, tossing in a dash of this, a handful of that, and hope for the best. Their workspace is chaotic and their results are not necessarily predictable – though every once in a while they create a culinary masterpiece that everyone talks about for days. I’ve seen similar ‘investment chefs’: advisors who have a proven recipe, and those that dabble with the latest flavours in the markets. Their results tend to be the same as we find at the dinner party: trusted and reliable, or hit-andmiss. When the dabbler hits the jackpot, which happens, word spreads fast and everyone wants the ‘recipe’.
While there is room for a little experimenting in the financial kitchen, I tend to caution people against taking too much of a trial-and-error approach. If you follow a recipe that is proven and consistent, the end result can be better predicted, even if you toss in some different flavours from time to time. Stock market volatility, rising interest rates, and political rhetoric all make for uncertain times. The best way to get reliable investment results is to follow a consistent process. A solid portfolio recipe doesn’t preclude fresh possibilities. Just like adjusting the seasoning of your favourite dish, you can take advantage of new opportunities, make adjustments to your asset mix. Investing isn’t so different from cooking. Unless you’re a Michelin Star chef or downright lucky, you generally get better results when you stick to a recipe rather than making things up from scratch. The opinions expressed in this report are the opinions of the author and readers should not assume they reflect the opinions or recommendations of Richardson GMP Limited or its affiliates. Richardson GMP Limited, Member Canadian Investor Protection Fund. Richardson is a trade-mark of James Richardson & Sons, Limited. GMP is a registered trade-mark of GMP Securities L.P. Both used under license by Richardson GMP Limited.
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TW H S OC I AL : UNDERGROUND DIGS FOR UPSCALE COMFORT FOOD
BY CHRIS TIESSEN
‘If I didn’t know better, I’d say this amazing place has a bit of a speakeasy-type vibe going on,’ TOQUE Partner Cai Sepulis whispers as we tuck into our booth for lunch. I nod affirmatively - even though I’ve never actually seen a speakeasy. But I’ve heard enough to have a pretty good idea of what Cai is alluding to. I look around. TWH Social in downtown Kitchener. For sure – posh as it is – this grand old landmark definitely could be said to evoke a certain cloak-and-dagger feel. Like some upscale gambling den. Or exclusive prohibition clubhouse. The underground location beneath the shops that line Kitchener’s downtown core. The exposed brick walls and backlit arched ‘window boxes’ that make up an evocative chiaroscuro. My mind begins to wander. I picture Al Capone lounging in one of the padded leather booths.
Or John Dillinger coming out of the bathroom. ‘You’re not too far off the mark about the feel of the place,’ says TWH General Manager Nathaniel Beattie, who strolls over to our booth to welcome us. ‘In fact, they used to film Murdoch Mysteries here. And the old vaults are still in use – now, albeit, as beer fridge and wine cellar.’ Very cool. The restaurant, more than an occasional set for noir-ish worlds, plays double duty as both a stand-alone bistro and the restaurant of downtown’s storied Walper Hotel, which has, over the years, been host to all sorts of characters – including prime ministers, governors general and tech nobility, along with any number of notables and local folk. We look around as we get comfortable in our booth to see if we recognize anyone here today. Craig Beattie, whose Perimeter
Developments have been instrumental in
to prepare a few dishes for us. ‘To give you
resurrecting the downtown core one project
a taste of what we have to offer,’ remarks
at a time, is seated a couple booths over.
Nathaniel, ‘including a couple items you might
Entrenched in his meal and his laptop. A
have never tried before.’ Sounds good. While
couple tables past him I think I recognize
we wait for the first dishes to come out of the
a familiar face from City Hall, deep in
kitchen, I ask Nathaniel about the particular
conversation. After a few more seconds
character of the restaurant – where he sees
perusing the space, my attention shifts to
it fitting in Kitchener-Waterloo’s burgeoning
Nathaniel, who stands ready to tell us about
culinary scene. He is quick to answer. ‘We’re
the tap list. ‘We actually have twenty taps,’ he
a unique beast,’ he begins, ‘because we cater
notes, ‘all featuring brews from Ontario. As
to everyone from out-of-town hotel guests to
well as a bottle program for some harder-to-
local residents. Our menu certainly reflects
get brews.’ I give the bottle list a once-over:
this. We offer everything from steak and
Burdock’s Ton Ton Saison and Beau’s Tom
eggs and huevos benedictinos for brunch
Green’s Cherry Milk Stout instantly catch my
to Korean steak sandwiches and house
eye. But I select an Amsterdam Space Invader
made korma for lunch to chicken confit and
IPA – big, bold, juicy. Perfect. Cai settles on
poached cod for dinner. In other words, we
sparkling water. She’s driving.
run the gamut of flavours and styles. But we
It’s not long before our drinks arrive, and
attend seriously to each one.’
Nathaniel informs us that the restaurant’s
Nathaniel continues: ‘Our mission is to
co-chefs – Grant Holdbrook (formerly of
create a diverse number of dishes using the
Langdon Hall) and Carlo Atienza (a former
highest quality ingredients – collaborating
engineer and self-taught cook) – have decided
with as many local producers as possible.’
Like Golden Hearth Bakery, for instance. And
bone on Munchies’ ‘Chef’s Night Out.’’ With
Goodvibes Kombucha. ‘Our partnership with
a little guidance from Nathaniel, I’m soon
Goodvibes is pretty awesome,’ Nathaniel tells
scooping the luscious rich marrow out onto
us. ‘We’ve come up with an entire cocktail
its accompanying Golden Hearth sourdough.
menu using their kombucha – including
And enjoying every morsel. The tartare is also
amazing concoctions like our 'Orchard Bellini'
phenomenal – as are the scallops. Score one
for example, with Pama Liqueur, peach &
(or three, for that matter) for these exquisite
mint kombucha, Prosecco and apple spice. Or
dishes. Elevated comfort food with a twist,
the 'Tom Sour' with Dillon’s dry gin [so good],
sour cherry kombucha, lemon and simple syrup.’ I’m keen to try some of these next time we stop by.
As we put away the last remnants of our appetizers, Chef Grant emerges from the kitchen with the main we’ve decided to split:
Nathaniel goes on: ‘You might say we strive
duck breast with brioche bread pudding,
to do elevated comfort food – with a twist.’
honey and thyme roasted sunchoke, swiss
As he finishes this statement, our appetizers
chard and juniper jus. The presentation
arrive. They immediately impress, as Cai and
alone has me excited. The taste – even more.
I learn soon enough that their flamboyance
‘You’ve got yourself quite an amazing place
is matched by their extraordinary flavor.
here,’ I remark to Nathaniel as I load my fork
Lamb tartare with spiced carrot purée and
with some of the bread pudding along with
grilled sourdough. Pan-seared scallops with
some jus-infused duck. And, so delighted and
cauliflower cream, bacon lardon, brioche
content in these extraordinary suroundings, I
croutons and pickled onion. And bone
think to myself: if this is what a real speakeasy
marrow with honey pickled mushrooms,
would have been like way back when, then I’m
cipollini agrodolce and grilled sourdough.
living in the wrong century. But I’m thankful
‘Bone marrow!’ My discernible level of marvel
that TWH exists in this one
and excitement has nearby diners turning their heads. I explain to Cai: ‘I’ve wanted to try it since watching Jesse Koide and his culinary crew slurp vodka straight from the
TWH SOCIAL BAR & BISTRO 1 KING ST W, KITCHENER
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EAT YOUR HEART OUT #FOODPORN OPEN WIDE Last year, we tempted you with burgers from five of our most favourite culinary destinations across the region. This year, we’re at it again. So buckle up. But not before loosening your belt a notch or two. You’re gonna need the extra room.
E THE L ’S L O U NG E – F u n ky Bu rger 8oz ALL-BEEF PATTY, SHREDDED LETTUCE, TOMATO, ONION & PICKLE. Pairs with Molson Stock Ale (from the bottle, of course) ETHELSLOUNGE.COM 114 KING ST N, WATERLOO
LI T T L E L O U I E ’ S BU R G E R JO I N T AND S O U P E RY – Bu i l d Y o ur O w n B ur g er 8oz BEEF PADDY, HAVARTI, SHREDDED LETTUCE, SUN-DRIED TOMATOES, GUACAMOLE & SRIRACHA AIOLI. Pairs with a banana peanut butter malted milkshake
LITTLELOUIESBURGERJOINT.COM 234 CLYDE RD, CAMBRIDGE
T H E Y E T I CA F É - T he B r ek k i e TWO EGGS SUNNY SIDE UP, CRISPY BACON, AVOCADO SLICES, FRESH FRUIT & THICK CUT SOURDOUGH BREAD. PAIRED WITH COFFEE – BLACK 14 EBY ST N, KITCHENER THEYETICAFE.COM
E L IZA B E TH S TRE E T E A TE RY – Th e Qu een E li zabeth TWO DRY-AGED STRIPLOIN AND CHUCK PATTIES, GOLDEN BUN, ‘E STREET’ SAUCE, ICEBERG LETTUCE & ONE-YEAR AGED CHEDDAR. Pairs with Bellwoods Roman Candle IPA ELIZABETHSTREETEATERY.COM 447 ELIZABETH ST, GUELPH
C AF É P Y R U S – T H E B U R G E R HENRY’S ORGANIC TEMPEH W/ PYRUS’ SPICE BLEND, ORGANIC KAISER, ORGANIC ROMAINE, TOMATO, AVOCADO, SPINACH, RED ONION, MUSTARD, KETCHUP, ROASTED GARLIC AIOLI & AGED ORGANIC CHEDDAR. Pairs with Live Kimbucha CAFEPYRUS.COM 16 CHARLES ST W, KITCHENER
T H E Y E T I CA F É - T he B r ek k i e TWO EGGS SUNNY SIDE UP, CRISPY BACON, AVOCADO SLICES, FRESH FRUIT & THICK CUT SOURDOUGH BREAD. PAIRED WITH COFFEE – BLACK 14 EBY ST N, KITCHENER THEYETICAFE.COM
HA MB RG R – LE R OY ALE WI T H C H E E SE HAND-SMASHED PATTY, ‘FRENCH’ ONIONS, MELTED HAVARTI, CRISPY SHOESTRING POTATOES, SMOKED BACON JAM, BLACK TRUFFLE & TRIPLE CRUNCH AIOLI. Pairs with Great Lakes’ Octopus Wants to Fight IPA HAMBRGR.CA 49 KING WILLIAM ST, HAMILTON
the best place to chill after your commute Unlock your future at
PROGRESSIVE Real Estate Services
FERGUS: 519-843-1365 | GORDON ST: 519-824-9050
ROCKWOOD: 519-856-9922 | SPEEDVALE: 519-821-6191 Not intended to solicit listings currently listed for sale
POLESTAR HEARTH AND SOURDOUGH BREAD:
O O LW IC H
A REVOLUTIONARY PAIR BY GUEST CONTRIBUTOR JONATHON BARRABALL ‘All sorrows are less with bread.’
-Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra
Bakeries smell good. It’s a universal truth. Walking in to the smell of warm bread is a soul cleansing experience that everyone should have on at least a weekly basis. And when you open the door to Polestar Hearth, a sourdough bakery in Guelph, this sensory phenomenon is heightened to such a degree that you might never want to leave. In the words of my girlfriend, Sidey, whom I brought to Polestar for the first time the other week, ‘it
inducing aroma. It began eleven years ago when Jesse Merrill, the owner and creator (then a musical instrument repairman), built a small brick oven in his backyard and began making sourdough. Soon Jesse was delivering fresh loaves of sourdough bread by bicycle throughout his neighborhood. Before long he transferred his operation to a much larger oven he built in his garage, and finally, two years ago, he moved his bread-making activities into his bakery proper, Polestar, which now produces loaves of sourdough – this seemingly simple food composed of
smells so good you could die in here.’
only four ingredients that, when slightly
Polestar Hearth is indeed a special place,
fabulous results – in a warm, cozy, peaceful,
and not just for the thoughts-of-the-after-life
and welcoming space.
manipulated, can produce innumerable
It’s easy to get caught up watching the bakers
around it,’ he says. ‘It continues to give – and
at Polestar hard at work, folding and shaping
continues to challenge.’
dough or sliding loaves of sourdough in
and out of the oven. Yet the place has an almost meditative aura, even with a swarm of patrons bustling about on a Saturday morning. ‘Breadmaking is a peaceful, simple process,’ Tobey Deystells, who heads up the baking program at Polestar, tells me. Tobey talks about sourdough as if the bread has its own thoughts and emotions. ‘You form a sort of relationship with the dough,’ she says. ‘So many different factors can have an effect on it: the temperature outside, the humidity.’ She adds: ‘I swear, sometimes it changes based on my mood.’
But bread making isn’t all good smells and tastes; it can be political, too. ‘Choosing sourdough over countless other varieties of bread is something of an ethical choice,’ Tobey observes, adding that ‘in the world of mass-produced and commercialized food products, sourdough (healthy, handmade, and really delicious) is a sort of disruptive anti-technology.’ Jesse, who in spite of being a successful professional baker encourages people to bake at home, concurs. ‘Making your own bread is a sort of form of social resistance,’ he explains. ‘Here’s something you can make with very few ingredients that
Jesse, who developed Polestar’s current
can nurture and sustain your family; it’s sort
starter by isolating yeasts and bacteria from
of beyond commerce.’ For those who don’t
a sunflower and some grapes grown in his
feel revolutionary enough to bake their
own backyard, agrees that the sourdough
own sourdough bread at home, it’s good to
seems to have its own living, breathing soul.
know that on any given day there’s about a
‘Keeping up with the starter all these years
half a dozen different types of beautiful and
has been a huge part of life for my family and
delicious loaves to choose from at Polestar
me,’ he says, adding that he has even brought
Hearth, where just walking in and breathing
the starter with him on family vacations, in
deeply can be a sensual treat, and maybe
order to ensure its quality and livelihood.
even a soul cleansing experience
‘Sometimes it feels like our lives revolve
POLESTAR HEARTH 535 WOOLWICH ST, GUELPH
MORE T H AN S OU R DO U G H :
92 W O O LW IC H
PIE BY NIGHT
Pie By Night is a pop-up pizza joint that happens every Sunday at Polestar Hearth. It is a passion project started by Connor Ross (who is a full-time baker at Polestar during the week)
with the help of Abby Ritcher, Brooke Howard and Jesse Wallace. Living and working in Guelph’s restaurant industry, Connor and his friends noticed there was no one focusing solely on serving high-quality pizza. So, to fix that, they started Pie by Night. Here’s what it’s all about:
1 . Pie By Night serves Neapolitan-inspired
4. The Pie By Night team is the real deal –
pizzas cooked in stone ovens that mimic
comprised of experienced culinary wizards
some of the characteristics of a wood-fired
with culinary and pastry degrees, and years
working in top-notch restaurants across
2 . These pizzas, made up of fresh and
Guelph and beyond.
organic ingredients sourced from nearby
5. These folks make seventy five pizzas each
farmers and purveyors, are a locavore’s
Sunday – and they sell out quick. A handful
of pizzas are reserved for walk-ins, while the
3 . Their dough is hand-stretched to order and created from 00 flour milled in Quebec. The product of countless trials, this flour has been tailored to the exacting specifications of the oven used by the makers of Pie By Night.
rest are reserved as pre-orders by email, Facebook or Instagram. Wanna taste what all the fuss is about?
Pre-order your pizza by emailing email@example.com or via facebook or instagram
FIVE PIE BY NIGHT PIZZAS THAT WILL HAVE YOU LONGING FOR MORE:
MARGHERITA – tomato, basil, buffalo mozzarella It's simple, it highlights our dough perfectly, and it’s a pizza we will never get tired of making.
FUNGHI – mushroom, garlic oil, thyme, duxelle, ricotta The duxelle provides great texture & incredible taste, while the ricotta adds a complementary mild creaminess.
BROCCOLI & SMOKED CHEDDAR – broccoli, bechamel, smoked cheddar, red onion The bechamel is creamy, the cows’ smoked cheddar has the perfect smoke & the aroma out of the oven is nothing less than intoxicating.
POTATO & RACLETTE – potato, bechamel, raclette, gherkins, arugula Raclette is a beautiful melting cheese with a strong, pungent flavour that matches with the potato nicely, while gherkins go on fresh to add some tang & acidity
Hey #DTK, we’ll see you soon!
BUFFALO CAULIFLOWER & BLUE CHEESE – cauliflower, blue cheese, buffalo sauce, iceberg lettuce, ranch sauce This pizza is as close to a vegetarian chicken wing as you’ll find. As close to a ‘trashy pizza’ as we've made, but still a huge success and a ton of fun
PIE BY NIGHT OPERATING FROM POLESTAR HEARTH 535 WOOLWICH ST, GUELPH
EAT I N • TAKE O UT • CATE RIN G
OPENING JANUARY 2019 Get ready to meet your new neighbour: PIRI PIRI CHICKEN, PORK BELLY SANDWICHES, BRUNCH, SALAD BOWLS AND SO MUCH MORE! 294 Woolwich Street, Downtown Guelph 519.265.9002
UNCOVERING WELLINGTON COUNTY
BEST BAA DAIRY 96
‘We try to keep things as low tech as possible,’ Best Baa Dairy co-owner Nicole Bzikot tells me as we walk through her company’s immaculate Fergus production facility. ‘Our focus is sustainable farming practices, environmentalism, and quality.’ Best Baa products range from tasty sheep’s milk and creamy sheep’s milk yogurt to mouth-watering feta and sheep’s milk cream cheese. Where to buy? The Stone Store (Guelph), Fiddleheads, Full Circle Foods, Healthoholics, The Old Kitchen Cupboard (all in Kitchener), Vincenzo’s (Waterloo) and Mustard Seed Co-op (Hamilton), to start. Like so many other remarkable farms and food businesses that dot Guelph and Wellington County, Best Baa is a partner of Taste Real – a County of Wellington program that promotes local food and facilitates valuable
connections among food businesses, consumers and farmers. Farmers like Nicole and her husband Peter at Best Baa – folks whose enterprises bring flavour to our region. To your plate. Learn more at bestbaa.com and tastereal.ca
REC IPE: FRABERTS CHICKEN CURRY by Chef Derek Robers, Fraberts Fresh Foods (a family-run local fresh food market in Fergus)
I N GR ED I EN T S : canola oil (or other vegetable oil) 2 lbs boneless skinless chicken (diced) ½ cup onion (diced) 1 tbsp garlic (fresh minced) 1 tbsp ginger (fresh grated) 1 cup Best Baa plain yogurt 1½ tbsp lemon juice 1 tsp salt ½ tsp ground pepper 1 tsp cardamom ½ tsp nutmeg ½ tsp cloves ½ tsp cinnamon 1 tsp coriander ½ tsp cayenne 1 tsp cumin 1 tsp turmeric 1 tsp curry powder 14 oz can coconut milk 1 cup carrots (shredded) 1 cup frozen peas ½ cup cilantro (fresh chopped)
INSTRUCTIONS: Pour some oil into a non-stick frying pan and cook the diced chicken. Set the chicken aside in a bowl lined with paper towel. In a Dutch oven, add a tablespoon of oil and cook the onions uncovered over low heat until they are translucent. Add fresh ginger & garlic – not browning the garlic. In a large mixing bowl, combine the next thirteen ingredients (yoghurt, lemon juice, and all the spices) & whisk to mix well. Add this mixture to the Dutch oven and bring to a simmer. Simmer for about five minutes. Add coconut milk & chicken, and bring back up to a simmer. Add shredded carrots, frozen peas & simmer for another five minutes. Remove the Dutch oven from heat and add freshly chopped cilantro. Serve atop freshly-made basmati rice.
U PCOMI N G T A S T E RE A L EVE NTS EA T U P YO UR F E B R UAR Y FEBRUARY 1-17 Celebrate Local Food in winter! Discover great winter eats, events and local food deals. Dining – Shopping – Events –
T O P T EN TO U R A ND TA STE A DV E NTU RE S IN W E LLING TON C OUN T Y WINTER IS A GREAT TIME TO SHARE A HEARTY MEAL WITH FRIENDS AND FAMILY. HERE ARE SOME OF OUR FAVOURITE GUELPH AND WELLINGTON LOCAL FOOD & DRINK PAIRINGS TO GET YOU INSPIRED.
1. 2. 3.
Best Baa Dairy cream cheese with Rootham’s Gourmet red pepper jelly served with a glass of Cox Creek Cellars Gewurztraminer Thatcher Farms red wine and garlic pork sausage with Big John’s Country Market roasted squash and Green Table Foods fermented sauerkraut Lau-Tea-Da curried lentil soup with Mapleton’s Organic yogurt served with Polestar Hearth sourdough bread
4. 5. 6.
Zocalo Organics mixed greens with Breadalbane Inn apple cider vinaigrette and Jewels under the Kilt Spicy Caesar roasted walnuts Reroot Organic Farm bacon with Top Market Meats fried eggs served with a freshly-brewed cup of Infusion Coffee Roasting Co ‘El Platanar’ coffee Ell-Crest Farm beef stew made with Wellington Brewery County Ale served with a slice of Elora Bread Trading Co sourdough bread
Ross Enterprises turkey with Everdale Farm roasted rainbow carrots served with Country Flavour spicy fruit jelly
Misty Meadow Country Market butter tart with Organic Meadow whipped cream served with a cup of Planet Bean ‘Freedom Fighter’ coffee
LaFontana fresh pasta and Floralane Farm cherry tomatoes with a glass of Heartwood Farm ‘Hoppity’ cider
Rack of Circle-R Livestock lamb with Corwhin Herbs and Produce sweet potatoes enjoyed with a pint of Royal City Brewing smoked honey ale
Classes – Tours – Deals
Learn more about finding local food, experiences and events in Wellington County/Guelph at tastereal.ca and experiencewellington.ca
GETTING TO KNOW: ‘BREWING CHANGES GUELPH’ EXHIBIT INTERVIEW BY SONIA PREISLER
DA WN O WE N, CURATOR OF GUELPH C IVIC M U SE U M , R E CE N T LY N OT E D T H AT ‘ IT ’ S N O T A N O V E RSTATEMENT TO SAY BEE R B U ILT T H IS T OWN .’ IN DE E D, E VE N A C U R SO R Y GL A NCE A T GUELPH ’S CURRENT BEE R LAN DSC AP E ON LY SE E M S T O ST R E N G T H E N D A W N ’ S SU GGE S T IO N. WELLI NGTON BREWER Y . SLE E M AN B R E WE R IE S. R OY AL C IT Y B R E WIN G C O . FIX E D GEAR BREW I NG CO. TH E R E C E N T LY -DE CE ASE D ST ON E H AM M E R B R E WIN G . ( RIP S T O NE H AMMER.) NOT TO MENT ION GU E LP H ’ S G R E AT B AR S AN D P U B S WIT H BE E R LIS T S T HA T CAN MAKE EVEN TH E STO DGIE ST H OP H E AD WE AK AT T H E KN E E S. ON E O F THE CIV IC MUSEUM’S CURRENT EXH IB IT S, ‘ B R E WIN G CH AN GE S G U E LP H ,’ AT T E M P T S TO B O T T L E GUELPH ’S BEER STORY A N D P U T IT ON DISP LAY – F R OM IT S E AR LIE ST BE GINNINGS STRAI GH T TH ROUGH TO T H E ST AT E OF T ODAY ’ S B E E R SC E N E IN GU E L P H . R E CE NT L Y , T OQUE’S SONI A PREI SLER CH AT T E D WIT H G U E LP H M U SE U M ’ S SAR AH BA L L A B O U T T HE EXH I BI T. H ERE’S W H AT S AR AH H AD T O SAY :
SO WHAT’S THE STORY AT THE HEART OF AN EXHIBITION ON BREWING IN GUELPH?
post-1980s breweries and video interviews with
‘Brewing Changes Guelph’ examines the social and
1,500-pound slab of concrete – the name-stone
economic impact of brewing beer in the Royal City
from the once important Thomas Holliday’s
and documents the changes brought about by the
brewery from 1868 – rescued from demolition
rise, fall and resurrection of Guelph breweries.
decades ago and preserved by a family in Paisley. I
Guest curated by Eric Payseur, ‘Brewing Changes
especially love what we’ve labeled the ‘artist wall’ in
Guelph’ is about the present, past and future of
the contemporary brewing installation. It includes a
brewing in Guelph.
number of the process works that go into designing
WHAT SORTS OF INTERESTING TIDBITS MIGHT I TAKE AWAY FROM THE EXHIBIT?
present-day Guelph brewers and other industry movers and shakers. Maybe most notable is a
beer labels, and reflects the creative contributions of local artists collaborating with local breweries.
Did you know that women were the original
ANY OTHER COOL BITS OF HISTORY THAT MIGHT INTEREST LOCAL FOLKS?
brewers around the world? In early Guelph
For sure. How about this: all modern malting
they brewed domestically as well as in inns and
barley varieties (except for two) are descendants
taverns right up until larger commercial brewing
of ‘OAC 21’ barley – the twentieth-century brewing
operations (usually run by men) were established.
industry standard for over fifty years. This strain
I found it interesting that it was a matriarch of the
was developed right here in Guelph at the Ontario
renowned Sleeman family who was responsible
Agriculture College by Charles Zavitz, who earned
for saving the family recipes back in the 1930s –
several honorary degrees for his work as an
enabling them to be resurrected by John Sleeman
experimental agriculturalist and peace activist.
when he re-started the family business in the mid-
When the Canadian Brewer's Association wanted
to present him with an award for his spectacular
THERE MUST BE SOME INTERESTING ARTIFACTS IN THE EXHIBIT. Many. People might enjoy seeing label-making
work on developing so fine a barley for the malting process, Zavitz, a Quaker and a teetotaler, would not accept the award in public.
example, and vintage stoneware beer bottles. Or
DO YOU HAVE TO BE A BEER DRINKER TO ENJOY THIS EXHIBIT?
nineteenth-century brewing & malting licenses
Absolutely not. The exhibition is not about
and invoices that reveal how essential the brewery
consuming beer and, frankly, Guelph’s brewing
industry was in Guelph's early economy. There’s
story is so much more than the great beers that are
an array of tap handles from all of Guelph's
produced here. The brewing industry quite literally
plates from the original Sleeman Breweries, for
put Guelph on the map – from its incorporation GUELPH CIVIC MUSEUM 52 NORFOLK ST, GUELPH
as a city to the recent ranking by expedia.ca of Guelph as one of the three best beer destinations in Canada
MEET YOUR MAKER
FOREQUARTER BUTCHER SHOP 17 L OU I S A S T . K I TCH E N E R , O N
fqbutchershop.com M OS T U ND ER R A T E D P I E CE O F M E A T? B ee f b l ad e s t e a k L OC AL M AKE R S WI TH WH O M Y O U C OL L ABORAT E ? T he C ul i na r y Stu d io , Th e Ke t c hup P r o j e c t , Pu b lic K itche n & B a r , T a c o F a r m
T H ER E’S A N EW B U T C H ER S H O P I N KI T C H EN ER – A L T H OU G H T H E F O L KS B EH I N D T H I S OP ER A T I O N A R E H A RDL Y N EW T O T H E T R A D E. I N D EED , C OL B Y L EM OI N E A N D W A S EA M M A S R I , OWNEROP ER A T OR S OF F OR EQ U A R T ER B UTCHER S H OP , H A V E A C O MB I N ED T W EN T Y-
& R ed H o u s e
F I V E Y EA R S OF B U T C H ER Y EX P ER I E NCE
W H E RE D O YO U E A T WHE N Y O U
B ET W EEN T H EM. L OO KI N G F OR
N E E D A B REA K ? So n n y ’ s in W a t e r l o o
L OC A L , H I G H Q U A L I T Y MEA T W I T H NO H OR MO N ES OR A N T I B I OT I C S ? H A NDMADE S A U S A G E W I T H H A N D - C R A F T ED S P I CE B L EN D S A N D N O F I L L ER ? T H EN Y OU’VE C O ME T O T H E R I G H T P L A C E. A N D B EC A U S E C OL B Y A N D W A S EA M S P E CI AL I ZE I N W H O L E A N I M A L B U T C H ER Y , I T ’S EASY F O R T H EM T O T A KE A L OT OF C A R E I N G ET T I N G Y OU T H E EX A C T C U T Y OU WANT.
TO PROVIDE MEANINGFUL ARCHITECTURE IS NOT TO PARODY HISTORY, BUT TO ARTICULATE IT. -DANIEL LIBESKIND
ANATO M Y O F A B R A N D :
ME R I T B A DG E CLIENT: MERIT BADGE DOUGHNUTS DESIGNER: CAI SEPULIS, TOQUE LTD.
THIS NEW AND ADVENTUROUS LITTLE DOUGHNUT COMPANY FROM GUELPH WAS WELL ON ITS WAY TO DEFINING ITSELF AS BOTH QUIRKY AND VIRTUOUS WHEN IT CHOSE THE NAME 'MERIT BADGE'. INSPIRED BY THEIR BADGE MOTIF AND THEIR KITSCHY POSTURE WE DESIGNED THE BRAND FEATURING KITSCH-COOL ICONS WITH A MISCHIEVOUS WES ANDERSON FEEL. WITH A FOCUS ON ALL THINGS NATURAL, WE EXTENDED THE CAMP (AND CAMPY) THEME IMPLIED IN THE NAME 'MERIT BADGE' BY USING KRAFT PAPER BOXES FEATURING A FABULIST TRAIL RUNNING THROUGH A TOPOGRAPHICAL MAP. 104 104
NOT E : M O CK U P O NL Y â&#x20AC;&#x201C; FI NA L D E S I GN C H A N G ED SL IG H T L Y W IT H PRIN T ER D IEL IN ES & SPEC IF IC A T I ON S
CHOCOLATE EARL GREY
MATCHA DARK CHOCOLATE
EARL GREY FILLED
CARAMEL APPLE WHISKY
CARAMEL SWIRL LAVENDER GLAZE
SMALL BATCH POST E R/BANDA NA
LEMON LAVENDER SHORTBREAD
# P HOT OES S AY
A NORTHERN PILGRIMAGE
‘THERE ARE STRANGE THINGS DONE IN THE MIDNIGHT SUN...’ - R OBE R T W. S E R V ICE 106
Along the Haines Highway, YT. 1,396KM
WHAT DOES A LATE SUMMER TOQUE ROAD TRIP LOOK LIKE? IT BEGINS WITH A SHORT LAYOVER IN CALGARY, FOLLOWED BY A 1,752KM JOURNEY FROM WHITEHORSE ACROSS THE YUKON, OVER THE MOUNTAINS OF NORTHERN BRITISH COLUMBIA, AND INTO ALASKA BY BOAT – BEFORE RETURNING TO WHITEHORSE AND BACK HOME AGAIN. EIGHT DAYS. OF MARVELOUS FOOD. COZY CRAFT BREWERIES. BREATHTAKING LANDSCAPES. ONE BADASS JEEP. AND A CAMERA. ENJOY THE VIEW.
CAL GA RY (F OR A QUICK L AY O VER)
BRIDGELAND BREAKFAST BOWL BLUE STAR DINER
THE DANDY BREWING COMPANY
CANNIBALE BARBERSHOP &COCKTAILS
COLD GARDEN BEVERAGE COMPANY FEAT. THE ALL-NIGHTER VANILLA CAPPUCCINO PORTER & CAKEFACE MARZEN-STYLE LAGER
WH ITEH ORSE
LADY GREY COCKTAIL WOODCUTTERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BLANKET
STEWART CROSSING ANALOG (353KM) NAVIGATION (DUE TO SPOTTY CELL SERVICE)
DA WSON CI TY
KLONDIKE KATE'S FLAME GRILLED BISON & ELK BLUEBERRY SAUSAGE, FRIED ONIONS, VEGGIES & CRANBERRY RHUBARB JAM
MIDNIGH T SUN (11:52PM)
WH ITEH ORSE
DINNER AT BOREALE EXPLORERS (A MOUNTAINBIKING LODGE AT THE BASE OF THE SEVEN SISTERS MOUNTAIN RANGE) FEATURING WILD CHINOOK SALMON & LOCALLY-FORAGED WILDFLOWERS & BERRIES
SKAG WA Y, ALA SKA
LOCAL POPCORN SHRIMP
KLONDIKE BREWING COMPANY
SKAGWAY BREWING COMPANY
FEAT. WHIPSAW SPRUCE BEER & DEVIL'S PUNCHBOWL LEMON BLUEBERRY WHEAT ALE.
HA INE S, AL ASKA
FERRY TO HAINES, ALASKA
SMOKED SOCKEYE FRESH FROM THE DOCKS HAINES PACKAGING COMPANY
CROWLERS OF HAZE JUNCTION IPA WIN TERLONG BREWING COMPANY
MIDNIGHT SUN COFFEE ROASTERS GOLD DIGGER BURGER DIRTY NORTHERN BASTARD
WH ITEH ORSE
FEAST YOUR EYES 49 ALBERT ST. WATERLOO
MARGARET ATWOOD From The Handmaid’s Tale to Art & Technology An Evening in Conversation with Dave Bidini
May 30, 2019 | Centre in the Square | 7pm | $60+HST & fees Tickets available at centreinthesquare.com For VIP tickets, contact Arielle.Kadish@THEMUSEUM.ca A portion of ticket sales goes to THEMUSEUM’s Education Programs
Charitable Registration Number: 86950 9554 RR0001
DOWNTOWN KITC H E N E R
Legacy Greens' chef, Erin Felder
MEET YOUR MAKER
DOW N TOWN K IT C H E NE R K E E P S G ET T I N G BETTE R . AN D F R E S H E R . AND T AS T I ER . A N D I T ’S
ALL BECAUSE O F INDE P E NDE NT L Y - O W N ED ,
18 ON TARIO ST N , KITCH EN E R
HIG H LY-CURA T E D S H O P S LIK E J OR D A N
DOLSON ’S LEGAC Y GR E E NS . FO C U S I N G
W H AT IN SPIRED Y OU TO D O WHAT
O N LOCAL FOO DS , S E A S O NAL P ROD U C E
Y OU’RE D OIN G ? T he We st Coast,
BOXES, CATE R ING, FO O D-S O U R C ED G I F T S ,
l o c al f o o d re tai l sc e ne
whe re the re ’ s a we l l -de veloped
AND GR AB & G O S NAC K S , T H IS C O Z Y S P A C E
Y OUR F AVOURITE TH IN G ( S) T O
O FFER S UN I QU E , FR E S H F LAV O U R S T O T H E
G ROW ? Gro und c he rri e s & flow ers
DOW N TOWN C O M M UNIT Y . (O R A N G ET T I
W H AT’S UP W ITH Y OUR PRO DU CE
S Q UASH , AN Y O NE ? ) AND G E T T HI S – M U C H
subsc ri pti o ns f o r pi c k-up w eekly
BOXES? We do 6-8 we e k
O F LEGACY GR E E NS ’ IN-S E AS O N P R OD U C E
at the sto re . B o xe s are season al,
(INCLUDI N G H E R B S , T O M AT O E S , G R OU N D
and e ac h o ne i nc l ude s a fu n
CHE R R I ES AN D, O F C O UR S E , GREEN S ) I S G R OW N AT T H E B U S INE S S ’ O W N S M A L L S C A L E FARM OP E R AT IO NS IN AT W O O D, W H I L E MA N Y O F I TS P R E P AR E D FO O DS AR E CR EA T ED I N THE UPSTAI R S K IT C H E N. S O U ND S L I KE I T ’S TIME FOR A V IS IT , T H E N.
the y f e ature al l -Ontari o produ ce, re c i pe .
JAP AN E S E S OU L F O O D:
IZNA DONBURI HOUSE
N G ST E S
BY GUEST CONTRIBUTOR JONATHON BARRABALL If I were trapped in one city and had to eat
opened Izna Donburi House is putting
one nation’s cuisine for the rest of my life,
Donburi (or ‘Don’) in the spotlight, alongside
I would not mind eating Japanese. I adore
a number of other traditional comfort
Japanese food. I love it.
foods such as gyoza (Japanese dumplings
-Anthony Bourdain Has it ever occurred to you that there is more to Japanese food than the refined and delicate flavours of sushi or sashimi? Does simple, soul-satisfying comfort food come to mind (ever?) when you decide to go out to eat at a Japanese restaurant? Who knew there was such a thing as hearty, home-style Japanese cooking? Donburi, a dish consisting of meat, fish, or vegetables simmered in sauces and served atop a heaping bowl of rice is what you would most often find on the table of a Japanese home, and recently
or potstickers) or ramen and udon (hearty Japanese wheat noodle soups). Long wooden tables under a canopy of dimly lit red lanterns invite you in to the warm space of Izna, where the wood panel walls are smattered with colourful art, a sort of East meets West. Here Japanese calligraphy and Banksy prints hang side by each. The open style kitchen, a reflection of chef and owner Chris Lee’s years of experience in teppanyaki restaurants, provides its own form of entertainment. At the same time it’s easy to get lost in conversation at the central
120 communal table, dotted with steaming mugs
Choosing our mains from the voluminous
of green tea and colourful bottles of sake.
menu was a bit of a challenge, but we
Sapporo, available on draught by the pint or
decided to split the katsu don, tonkotsu
schooner, is served frigid and eminently glug-
ramen, and the okonomiyaki. The katsu
able alongside the hot, savoury Japanese fare.
don was hearty, fried pork cutlet heaped
We started with a couple classics – gyoza and karaage. The gyoza were monstrous, lightly fried and stuffed to the point of bursting. While karaage most often involves chicken, we went for the shrimp, which was so gratifyingly crunchy it made me reevaluate years of opting for its gastronomic cousin, tempura. The entrees soon followed, served on giant, lavish cafeteria style trays, each lined with horoscope paper – a sort of tongue-in-cheek homage to the classic place setting one might come across at one of those old school Chinese buffets. Each dish was accompanied by house made kimchi and pickled radish. The kimchi – funky fermented cabbage, both spicy and fresh-tasting – was sublime.
on top of rice, with egg, a tangy aioli, and a generous garnishing of scallions. The flavours all melded harmoniously into one, while the contrasting textures of the crispy pork, soft rice and creamy aioli made me almost forget there was anything else on the table. The tonkotsu ramen warmed the soul, with its rich fatty broth made from pork bones, and firm, chewy hand-stretched noodles. The real star, though, was the okonomiyaki, a self-described ‘Hiroshima style Japanese pancake’ – a layered affair with equal parts deliciousness and ludicrosity. The base was composed of crispy matchstick potatoes, onto which bacon, cabbage, and eggs were layered respectively. Describing it as something along the lines of a pancake-omelette hybrid does not do it justice, but gives something
121 of a reference point. The layers formed a mountainous wonder atop which was a drizzle of both a rich savoury “okonomiyaki sauce” and a sharp aioli – all capped by a heaping pile of bonito flakes. It was enormous, about ten inches in diameter and six inches thick, served pre-cut into quarters. I mean, they gave us a pie lifter just to try and get at this thing. My shock quickly turned to elation as I tucked in to this delicious stack of scrumptiousness. Izna Donburi House is a welcome reminder that there is more to Japanese food than simply stuffing yourself at just another all-youcan-eat sushi joint. This is real, handmade, heartwarming soul food. The portions are generous and the food is executed with
aplomb. Come with an open mind, and you will certainly leave with a full and happy belly
IZNA DONBURI 137 KING ST E, KITCHENER
PHOTO THE RICH UNCLE TAVERN | 45 KING ST W
here to help.
sa le s r e pr e se ntative a ndra a r no ld. com
local. quality. custom.
g ue l p h c usto m ho m e s. ca d a n@ d a nclay to nho m e s. ca 5 19-830-3797
CAF FEI NE & M OT O R CY CLE S : FINDING HEAVEN AT STEELTOWN GARAGE COMPANY
ES S T N
BY CHRIS TIESSEN ‘This is the spot I’ve been waiting for someone
large wooden countertop. A small mountain
to create,’ I murmur reverently to TOQUE
of shiny black espresso mugs – many of
Partner Cai Sepulis when we step through an
which are emblazoned with the tagline ‘Death
admittedly unremarkable doorway off Barton
Before Decaf’ – are stacked on this workhorse
Street in Hamilton. And into my personal
of a machine. Vintage motorcycle helmets are
heaven. I stop in the entrance and breathe in
paraded on the wall behind it. The soul of the
rich scents of coffee, and notes of some of my
joint. An experienced barista deftly prepares
other favourite smells – conditioned leather
espresso-based drinks – americanos, lattes,
and, yes, motor oil. All together they produce
cappuccinos – for a handful of folks gathered
an intoxicating aroma. Of comfort. And
at the counter. Folks who, I must say, all
nostalgia. And aspiration. ‘If our magazine
look to be straight out of a Herschel Supply
was bricks and mortar,’ I continue, ‘this would
catalog. Or Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Or TOQUE
be it.’ Cai nods in agreement. ‘This is it,’ I
Magazine, for that matter. I revel in the
add, a bit quieter this time, and in a state of
A restored 1976 Honda cb750 Super Sport
To our right, a gorgeous turquoise La
motorcycle is positioned centre stage. This
Marzocco espresso machine dominates a
beast, a perfect blend of patina’d original
‘LIVE, T RA VEL, A DVEN T URE, B L ESS, A N D DO N ’T BE SORRY.’
- JACK KERO U A C
128 yellow paint, refurbished chrome, custom
co-owner Jeff Campagna answers when I
pipes and retrofitted knobbies could very
put the question to him. ‘We’re a bunch of
well be my spirit animal. The walls all around
things at once. A retail store. Coffee bar.
the rig are festooned with the hippest
Hub for motorcycle and gasoline culture
merchandise I can imagine. Deus Ex Machina
in downtown Hamilton. And a place to
duds. (I quickly snag the last ‘Deus Custom’
connect with friends and strangers over
ball cap – before Cai can take it for herself.)
shared passions – whatever they may be.’ I
Levi’s denim. Red Wing boots. Schott New
am entranced when Jeff, a former journalist
York leather jackets. Iron & Air magazine. The
who wrote for organs like The Daily Beast,
aforementioned Herschel collection. An entire
The Atlantic, Delayed Gratification and more,
wall designated to new motorcycle helmets
begins to tell me about when and how he
and supple leather riding gloves. And other
and his wife and business partner, Tania,
desirables that might complete any café
came up with the concept. ‘We lived abroad
for a decade – in Central and South America,
I wonder whether we’ve just stepped inside the coolest coffee shop inspired by motorcycle culture – or into a badass lifestyle shop that just happens also to sell great coffee. No matter, we’ve stepped through the looking glass. And it’s good. ‘It’s neither one nor the other,’ Steeltown
Indonesia, and other places,’ he tells me. ‘And I became enthralled with the old school, hard core motorcycle culture that pervades much of that part of the world.’ He continues: ‘In Panama I started working on old bikes – creating custom beach blasters for sand and stuff. When we moved back home in 2014, I brought this passion for motorcycle
and gasoline culture back with me. And reincarnated it here, in 2017, as Steeltown Garage Company.’ Tania, who has offered me a glorious espresso with homemade biscotti, enlarges the story: ‘While this place is our physical address [a space that Tania, an interior designer, envisioned and executed], our brand has gone international. We’re pretty excited that especially our in-house Steeltown merchandise – available through our online shop – has developed a following all over the world.’ This isn’t at all surprising. After all, even a cursory glance at the Steeltown brand reveals a design and application that effectively convey what these two are about. Cohesive. Fresh. Inclusive. Hip. As Jeff reveals: ‘Everything about what we produce articulates a particular narrative that’s rooted in our passions. For bikes. Caffeine. Past and
and Tania and the hordes of folks across this region – and around the globe – who have
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MANH AT T ANS :
WHERE PEOPLE WANT TO BE
BY CHRIS TIESSEN
R IG H
W T RD
‘My friend – you’re an exquisite anachronism,’
a natural at making people feel at home at
I propose to Thomas Aldridge – or ‘Big Daddy
Manhattans – in some ways the Royal City’s
T’, as he’s had me address him over the
best kept secret. Indeed, the restaurant,
years. I raise the flute of champagne he’s
located in a strip mall along Gordon Street
just poured me, and continue: ‘A veritable
somewhere between the heavily-promoted
throw-back to figures who once inhabited
downtown core and the heavily-populated
some fabulous romantic age. Like Fitzgerald’s
South End, is perhaps Guelph’s most
Gatsby. Hemingway. Or,’ I add, ‘Morrissey.’
underappreciated culinary and entertainment
We’re standing by the bar at Manhattans
destination. Despite its (relatively) obscure
– Thomas’ pizza bistro and music club in
location, this beautifully appointed
Guelph’s Midtown district. It’s early afternoon,
establishment is the ideal destination for
and the restaurant won’t open for another
anyone looking for a great place to eat. The
couple hours. Yet Thomas – ever the vigilant
perfect place for anyone who loves to listen
host – is making sure that I’m being taken
to live jazz (on Thomas’ one hundred-year-old
Steinway, to boot). An uncommon retreat for
Which is nothing new for this elegant, eloquent man. Indeed, Thomas is more than
anyone who enjoys the diversion of stand-up comedy. Indeed, there’s live entertainment almost every night at Manhattans.
And it’s become a destination not only for its
First up: steak tartare with gherkins,
devoted patrons but also for such featured
shallots, garlic aioli, tomato jam and quail
shows as CBC’s Laugh Out Loud, the Guelph
egg served with crostinis – fantastic – and
Jazz Festival, various Musagetes events,
Ontario burrata with roasted grape chutney,
vinyl nights (with Manhattans own Edwin
pistachios and house pickles with grilled
Hammond), and more.
baguette. ‘Fresh burrata is so seductive,’
‘Are you hungry,’ Thomas asks. ‘I can have the kitchen whip something up. A pizza, perhaps? Pasta? Salad? How about a pizza with some pasta and salad?’ Just then TOQUE Partner Cai Sepulis sweeps through the front door. ‘Well,’ Thomas remarks, ‘now that it’s a party, we have to eat.’ So he pours a flute for Cai and encourages Claire Mussar – his partner in life and business and the glue that binds us all – to put an order in. And so begins a somewhat familiar – and altogether satisfying – ritual. Of ‘Big Daddy T’ hosting. And entertaining. And, for the next couple hours, while Thomas
remarks Thomas as I plunge my knife deep into the fresh cheese. Stracciatella and cream pour out from the mozzarella shell. I load my fork with pistachios, a house pickle, some chutney, and loads of burrata, and take a bite. ‘This is phenomenal,’ I exclaim. Like out of this world. ‘It’s straight off our new menu,’ Thomas says with pride, ‘created by our new Chef – the fabulous Kyle Smith. We’re switching things up around here – moving away from being so pizza-centric to a more varied, elevated menu.’ I’ll say, I think to myself, and dive back into the burrata.
might better be spending his time getting the
I finish the dish, and Cai manages to polish
restaurant ready to open for the inevitable
off the tartare. And our mains arrive. Seared
dinner rush, he envelopes Cai and me in a
pickerel with cauliflower, brussels sprouts
most glorious afternoon.
and pancetta with caper brown butter for me.
Ricotta dumplings with squash puree, oyster mushroom, black truffle and shaved pecorino for Cai. And, for good measure, a Manhattans pizza – the Sonny Rollins, topped with tomato sauce, spicy sausage, ricotta, chilies, mozzarella and honey. As I dig into my pickerel, I ask Thomas what Manhattans means to him right now. After all, he started the restaurant back in 1994, managed to rebuild and re-open the place after a fire destroyed much of it, and continues to refine the model with no apparent end in sight. He looks down at the floor. And then towards
L AU N C H I N G JAN UARY 2 01 9
the bar. And fixes his eyes on the piano – centrally located on the restaurant’s low stage. And, after a long draw of champagne and with a twinkle in his eye, he answers – slowly: ‘I’ve been at this game for a long time now. And
11 Quebec St. Downtown Guelph
I’ve seen trends come and go. Restaurants come and go. And I’ve reached a point in my career as a business owner where I’m ready to spoil myself – with this place, and its food, and everything else it has to offer.’ He pauses, and then continues: ‘For me, Manhattans is where I want to be. Which is also, I hope, where other people want to be, too.’
discover that it’s less than an hour until the place will open its doors for dinner. And yet Thomas remains ever present. After all, he’s doing what he does best – making people feel
Perhaps not so much an exquisite
I glance at my watch and am startled to
Pilates Integrated Therapies Gratefulness Gatherings
anachronism, after all, as a man for all time
Stop by in December for a peek at our space and MANHATTANS 951 GORDON ST, GUELPH
STU D I OS H I B U I .C A | 51 9 - 8 3 0 - 0 432
GETTING TO KNOW:
REN NAVARRO INTERVIEW BY GUEST CONTRIBUTOR JONATHON BARRABALL
RE N N A V A R RO, CO -F OU N D ER OF THE SOC IETY OF B EER DRINKING L ADIES A N D A L L A R OU N D BEER G U RU K NOW N AND L OVED B Y JUST AB OUT EVERYON E W H O H A S E VER WORK ED IN T H E ONTARIO C RAFT B EER INDUSTRY, REC ENTLY J O I N E D B E E R AF ICIO N AD O J ON ATHON B ARRAB AL L TO DISC USS HER L ATEST PR O JE CT – BEER. D IVERSIT Y . – T H E SUB JEC T OF REN’S M ANY REC ENT PUBL IC PR E S E N TA TIO N S ON AN D IN VARIOUS M EDIA, FROM RADIO AND TEL EVISION TO PO D CA S TS AN D MAG AZ IN ES. H ERE’S W HAT SHE HAD TO SAY:
JB: WHAT IS THIS UNDERTAKING YOU CALL BEER.DIVERSITY.? AND WHAT ARE WE TO MAKE OF THOSE PERIODS/DOTS IN THE TITLE YOU’VE GIVEN YOUR PROJECT?
JB: ARE THERE ANY BREWERIES CURRENTLY SETTING A GOOD EXAMPLE FOR SUPPORTING DIVERSITY?
RN: Beer.Diversity. is a project I started in order to address
have supported diversity from the beginning. The
the lack of diversity in the craft beer industry. The periods
folks at Dominion Brewing are amazing at community
definitely serve a purpose, as they help highlight the project’s
engagement. This year they did a collaborative brew
two objectives. I want to talk about beer, I want to talk about
for Pride, and an awesome spin on the ‘Buck a Beer’
diversity. I want to talk about the diversity of beers (the rich
campaign that supported refugees in Ottawa. For the
assortment of craft beers, with different varieties that appeal
last two years, Royal City Brewing has done a collab
to different folks), and I want to talk about diversity (a full
with The Black Heritage Society called ‘Lantern Ale.’
range of actors) in the beer industry.
In both cases, the collaborations are immersive and
JB: WHAT WAS YOUR MOTIVATION FOR STARTING BEER.DIVERSITY.? RN: Over the last six or seven years I have worked for a number of craft breweries as a sales rep. At the beginning, I realized that I was the ‘unicorn’ of craft beer – a black gay female slinging beers in a predominately white male industry. I thought that things might change, but after all these years I am still one of the only black women in craft beer. Being a co-founder of the Society of Beer Drinking Ladies, and an active member of Queen of Craft, I’ve seen women take
RN: Absolutely! There are a few places in the area that
experiential, and people are informed both about how these efforts help and where the donations go. Wellington Brewery has also always been huge on having diversity in staffing and in the charities they support. These breweries tend to fly under the radar about their contributions to diversity – and that’s kind of the point. It shouldn’t be about photo ops and grandstanding. The places that are good at promoting diversity are transparent, open, honest, and, most important of all, consistent.
Diversity. for a long time. I’m hoping that Beer.Diversity. can
JB: HOW CAN MORE CRAFT BREWERIES WORK TOWARDS FACILITATING THE SORTS OF DIVERSITY YOU’RE PROMOTING?
help inspire and stimulate more representation in the craft
RN: It’s all about engaging a greater range of
beer world from folks of a wide range of sexual, racial, and
communities. I don’t think we need to entirely re-
ethnic backgrounds – and, at the same time, introduce a
structure the industry; we just need to create space.
more diverse audience to craft beer.
Imagine the brewing industry as a big family table.
steps toward getting their deserved representation within the industry. So I’ve been thinking about a project like Beer.
You’re sitting there with everyone, and it’s mainly white dudes with beards and a few women. I’m not BEER DIVERSITY (REN NAVARRO)
asking anyone to get up and leave the table – there’s plenty of room. All we need to do is to open things up a little, to move over a bit so that a greater diversity of
people can also pull up a chair – a greater diversity of people working in the craft, and a wider variety of folks enjoying a draft
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SVIL D LE R
DIGGING IN TO WILLIBALD’S NEW MENU BY CHRIS TIESSEN ‘Hey! Where’d you get that gorgeous wood-
Chef Byron Hallett preparing a spectacular
burning oven?’, I ask Willibald Farm Distillery
charcuterie board that TOQUE Partner Cai
co-owner Jordan van der Heyden – a wash of
Sepulis and I – along with Jordan, Willibald
curiosity and familiarity overtaking me. ‘I think
co-owner Cam Formica, and front of house
I recognize it.’ I am flooded by memories
manager Katie Irwin – will soon be enjoying
of my tenure as wood oven-fired pizza and
together. In the early afternoon. Before
bagel maker at Kitchener’s City Café Bakery.
Willibald’s newly-minted restaurant opens
At the corner of Strange Street and Victoria.
for dinner service. Cured pork belly. Coppa.
‘We actually got it from the former City Café
Lonza. Pork rillettes. Grainy mustard, pickled
Bakery location in Cambridge,’ Jordan replies.
beans and natural dill pickles. Willibald gin-
‘For a song.’ He pauses, before asking: ‘You
pickled apples. Plum and habanero jam.
know the place?’ I nod reverently, and saunter
All handcrafted in-house. Like just about
slowly towards the impressive piece of
everything at Willibald. I can feel my mouth
equipment for a closer look.
watering. Then. And now – writing this.
As I pass through the threshold separating
‘Hey man, I love your oven,’ I remark to Byron
Willibald’s gorgeous dining room from its
– albeit hesitantly, even sheepishly. Fanboying.
newly-minted professional kitchen, I spot
I can’t help it. This is, after all, the same Chef
Byron who helped put Arabella Park on the
charcuterie board, of course. And
map with his playful, fanciful, elevated bar
aforementioned sourdough too. With honey
food that put so many other restaurants to
butter and salt. The most glorious hunk
shame. And now he’s here. In Ayr. Doing his
of pork belly with brussels sprouts, purple
thing. ‘Thanks, my friend,’ Byron replies. ‘It’s
sauerkraut, fennel mustard, sweet potato and
a pretty incredible piece of equipment.’ As if
pickled kohlrabi. Leaks and mushrooms with
in sync, we both turn to the oven’s opening
parsnip, oyster mushroom, onion variations,
– zoning out on the glowing embers that rise
sage and garlic crouton. And a pizza straight
and fall like some primordial heartbeat. He
from the wood oven: Willibald’s ‘Meatza’,
continues: ‘During the day, we bring it up to
topped with pepperoni, mozzarella and ‘nduja
around nine hundred degrees for the pizzas.
– a fiery Italian salami from Calabria with a
And overnight we simply let the embers die
soft, spreadable consistency.
down on their own. By morning the oven’s still five hundred degrees – perfect for making our sourdough.’ Byron’s sourdough. Honestly, there may not be much in this world that I enjoy more. Add Byron’s house-made honey butter and coarse salt and leave me to die happy. Fast forward a few minutes and I’m sitting in the distillery dining hall – a converted barn with glorious vaulted cathedral ceiling – with Jordan, Cam, Katie and Cai. Set in front of us: an array of dishes that Byron and his team have prepared. The aforementioned
And cocktails. Glorious cocktails. Of course. Because Willibald. Katie’s creations: a classic ‘negroni’ with gin, campari, and vermouth rosso; an ‘early cuttings’ with rum, gin, aperol, lemon, grape and rosemary; an ‘ossington fizz’ with gin, pimms, lemon, sunflower, egg white and salt; and a ‘twice removed’ with gin, blanco vermouth, dill and lemon. The common denominator between all these drinks: Willibald’s fantastic barrel-aged dark gin.
GETTING TO KNOW WILLIBALD CHEF BYRON HALLETT Interview by Chris Tiessen SO, WHAT CAN WE EXPECT ON THE NEW WILLIBALD MENU? The menu is selfish, plain and simple. While this may sound abrasive, it’s not meant to. In essence, the menu reflects what the team and I like, what we want to cook, and how we want to cook it. Self-interest and creativity are what make a small handful of restaurants great. The team’s current selfish obsessions? Sourdough. Wood-fired pizza. In-house charcuterie. And anything that’s seasonal or that inspires us. WHAT EXCITES YOU MOST ABOUT WORKING AT WILLIBALD? Honestly everything about this place excites me. The cattle raised onsite. The gin distilled onsite. The honey created by bees that live onsite. The creative cocktails. The vibe of the whole place. The beautiful kitchen that was built for me. Everything. I’m very lucky – and proud – to be part of this venture. YOU’RE FAMOUS AS THE ARABELLA PARK CHEF WHO CREATED PLAYFUL YET ELEVATED DISHES. DO YOU BRING THE SAME CULINARY PHILOSOPHY TO WILLIBALD? Famous? That’s a stretch. While the two places couldn’t be any more different, my attitude towards food remains the same. It’ll come with me wherever I go – whether I like it or not. WHAT’S YOUR MOST ESSENTIAL KITCHEN UTENSIL? My Sous Chef – Mike Gibner. While he’s technically not a utensil, he’s definitely essential to me. A DISH YOU COULD MAKE FOR THE REST OF YOUR LIFE WITHOUT TIRING OF IT? Sourdough, butter and salt.
WHAT ARE YOU EATING WHEN YOU GET HOME? Usually a fermented barley soup – oftentimes heavily dry hopped. But really, my amazing girlfriend does a lot of the cooking at home. She’s good – like really good. WHAT SHOULD EVERY DINER WHO COMES TO WILLIBALD ORDER AT LEAST ONCE? A cocktail, for sure. Also some sourdough, charcuterie, and – without question – a pizza. The mains are also pretty delicious. The large format farmhouse options are great for bigger groups. The desserts are pretty fun, too. Maybe I should stop here?
‘This is one of the best meals of my life,’ I declare to our group as I savour a bit of the pork belly. ‘Do you eat like this every day?’ Jordan chuckles, ‘We’re only open Wednesday through Saturday, so no – not every day.’ He continues: ‘And I’m happy you’re enjoying yourself. We put a lot of effort into our kitchen program – focusing on authentic farm to table menus.’ How authentic? Let’s just say the Willibald crew doesn’t call themselves a ‘farm distillery’ for nothing. From the botanicals they grow for their spirits to the chickens they keep for eggs to the Ayrsyde Galloway cattle herd used for beef to the bees that produce honey to the herbs and spices and vegetables they use for various dishes, Willibald’s small but mighty team keeps as much as they can in-house. ‘In fact,’ Jordan tells me, ‘the only thing we don’t make here is the cheese we serve. But there are a number of great local cheese producers
Buy local. Bank local.
we’re happy to feature.’ I take a sip of my negroni – which Katie has
prepared with a glorious chunk of hand-hewn ice – and look around the dining room. While the vaulted ceiling must rise at least thirty feet into the air, it does not diminish this remarkably intimate gathering space. Indeed, with room for just under forty guests on any given evening, visiting for dinner is bound to be a cozy affair. Especially with the wood-fired oven going. And the lights dimmed. ‘Do you take reservations,’ I ask, ‘or can people simply walk in for a meal?’ I’m already thinking of my return visit. ‘It’s always best to call ahead,’ Jordan tells me. ‘We’re getting busier each week.’
Just before I leave I pull out my phone. To input Willibald’s number
WILLIBALD FARM DISTILLERY & RESTAURANT 1271 REIDSVILLE RD, AYR
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SA N DWI C H I N G
WITH RYAN GOODFELLOW, GOODFELLOWS FIELD TO FORK
‘TOO FEW PEOPLE UNDERSTAND A REALLY GOOD SANDWICH.’
FOR THIS ‘FOOD ISSUE,’ WE DECIDED TO PAY OUR PALS AT GOODFELLOWS IN ROCKWOOD A VISIT – SO THEY COULD SHOW US A GOOD SANDWICH (AND, AS ALWAYS, A GOOD TIME). AFTER SOME RUMMAGING FOR INGREDIENTS, HERE’S WHAT RYAN CAME UP WITH:
• house-made sourdough ciabatta • summer sausage from Top Market Meats • ‘June 2018’ cheese from River’s Edge Goat Dairy • house-made roasted & pickled cremini mushrooms from W&T Mushroom • house-made pickled foraged ramps • organic pea and sunflower sprouts from Nature’s Nourishing Farm • hot sauce from the Rockwood community garden • house-made hummus • house-made whole grain mustard Suffice it to say, this sandwich took longer to make than it did to devour.
HANDCR AF T ED CHAIN & POWER ROCKS