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Samui edition JAN/feb 2014
‘Interview with Ashley Sutton: Bangkok’s nightlife king’ Samui’s plans to go low carbon | Samui as the ultimate luxury brand
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CONTENT Raw Green Papaya // 011 Vikasa Yoga // 013
The Benefits of Increasing Eastern Ingredients in the Western Beauty Market // 018 Spotlight on // 020 Toto Rick Saint Nanalala Samui: The Ultimate Luxury Lifestyle Brand // 027
Low Carbon Samui // 032 Fisherman’s Village // 034 Weekend Away: Railay // 036
Rayavadee Resort
Advertising
space
City break: Bangkok // 040 Afternoon Tea at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel The Patravadi Theatre The Cheese Room at the Millennium Hilton hotel
available
The Land of Smiles: A Melting Pot of Culture // 048 Moonshadow Villa // 052
www.kasamag.com
Antiques in the home // 062
+66(0)935813251
Bangkok’s Nightlife King // 064
kasamagazine@gmail.com
stepping forward: Thailand’s Infrastructure development and economic opportunities // 068
Starting a Business in Thailand // 073 How to Avoid Investment Scams in Thailand // 075 Properties // 076
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Tom Bloomfield
Ricardo Quintas
Writers:
Editor-in-Chief
Graphic Designer
Andrew Creadie
Melinda Naylor
Photographers: Rick Saint
Elena Edwards
Tarniv Nevil
Anne Sophie Maestracci
Katy Thomas
John-Alan Dupiech
Kev Goldsmith
Alessandro Rossi
Managing Director
Sales Director
Greg Johnson
Kirsty Turner
c sa /Shutterstock.com
Adam Kohut
Jennifer Watts
De Visu /Shutterstock.com
Birat Lekhak
Mark Wright
Tom Matthews
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Raw Green Papaya: Thailand’s secret super food Words by Alessandro rossi
One need only wander down any of the
benefits that are not available when it is eaten in its
innumerable side streets, or soi, anywhere
more luscious and ripe state. This is because the levels
in Thailand to come across the inspiring
of two of the papaya’s health promoting ingredients
sight of a highly skilled street vendor
actually diminish in presence as the fruit ripens, and
se t t ing a b ou t to r educe a r aw gr een
may not be found in ripe fruits at all. These two secret
papaya to a pile of finely julienned strips
weapons in the battle to aid digestion are the potent
in a blur of kung-fu-like knife wielding.
proteolytic enzymes papain and chymopapain. These
This display of skill, which would make a Michelin
enzymes work to break down proteins, carbs and fats,
hatted chef proud, is all in aid of creating that most
and help to facilitate digestive action.
famous of Thai salads, Som Tum. Amongst an aromatic concoction of fresh ingredients, vegetables and spices
Papain is found only in the papaya plant, and actually
- including garlic, chili, lime juice, fish sauce, cherry
functions more effectively than the natural pepsin
tomatoes, green beans and toasted peanuts - the
found in our own stomachs! For this reason, raw green
basic, but key, ingredient of this delicious dish is the
papaya can be a very powerful natural aid to digestion,
humble raw green papaya. More familiar to the rest of
a particularly important property in a day and age
the world in its sweet, fleshy and succulent ripened
where more and more of the food we consume is overly
state, in which it takes on either a vibrant red or yellow
processed and hence poorly digested. Poor health of
hue, raw green papaya is a common ingredient in Thai
the digestive system is gaining increasing attention
cooking. Thais can also often be seen enjoying it as a
from many in the medical community as the possible
snack on its own, frequently accompanied by a sweet
cause of a whole raft of otherwise hard to diagnose
and sour dipping sauce. It is likewise enjoyed in this
conditions. However, a word of caution to pregnant
state in other parts of South East Asia, India and the
women, and those with allergies to latex, as it may be
tropics of the Americas, from where it originates.
present in sufficient quantities in raw green papaya to cause problems for some. As usual with anything con-
Many of the health benefits of papaya generally
cerning your health, use your own discretion and consult
are both well known and accepted worldwide. It is
a medical professional for your own peace of mind.
recognized as an excellent natural and delicious source of antioxidant nutrients, in particular Vitamin C, carotenes and flavonoids. Additionally it is rich in the B Vitamins of folate and pantothenic acid, as well as the minerals potassium and magnesium. This combination of valuable nutrients is thought to have many amazing effects, including helping to boost
Papain is found only in the papaya plant, and actually functions more effectively than the natural pepsin found in our own stomachs!
the immune system, support cardiovascular health, and aid in providing protection against heart disease.
For those of us who would love to do as the Thais do,
It is also widely believed to help support digestive
what better way to strengthen your digestive system,
health, as it is a great source of natural fiber. For those
and improve your general wellbeing than to join whole-
who, even if they don’t like to admit it, keep a close
heartedly in the national obsession with the delicious
eye on such things, papaya is also extremely low in
sweet and sour flavors of Som Tum and the raw green
calories, containing just 39 calories per 100 grams!
papaya. Anecdotal evidence even suggests that it may have qualities as an aphrodisiac - we’ll leave that one
What many may not know, however, is that eating
for you to decide!
papaya in its raw green state offers certain health
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vikasa yoga an envolving style of yoga for home or away When experiencing the rich culture that Thailand has to offer, yoga is one experience that should not be missed in this spiritual land of health and well-being. In Samui in particular, visitors will find they are more connected with both themselves and the nature around them, residing in a destination where healthy living becomes the norm rather than the distant goal it once was in their strenuous day-to-day lifestyle back home. Whether you’re on a path to self-discovery, or you simply desire a little self-nurturing and exercise, yoga can bring many challenges and satisfying rewards. Situated with stunning views on the rock face of Samui’s hilly border is Vikasa yoga retreat, an ideal place to practice yoga, find like-minded people, eat healthy food, and just relax in an amazing environment. Vikasa Yoga style is an open-minded approach to all the practices of Hatha Yoga; the physical, mental, and energetic disciplines of revealing a steady and clear state of being. What differentiates the folks at Vikasa from other systems of Hatha Yoga is that they encourage their teacher trainees to realize the structural framework that makes for an effective practice whilst still expressing their own style on this solid foundation. As an example of this, Kosta, the founder of Vikasa Yoga, and Betti, one of the instructors at Vikasa applying her own unique style, take us through a variety of poses from beginner to advanced for you to try at home.
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Perfected Pose Siddhasana (easy) T h e r e a r e t w o c l a s s i c a l ly d e s c r ib e d p o s e s o f meditation practice. ‘Lotus’ (or ‘Padmasana’) and ‘Siddhasana’. Both require an advanced degree of hip rotation and lend to a very stable, wide-based p os ture. T hey are b ot h great p os e s for s eate d concentration. Concentration is the first objective of the inner realm of Yoga prac tice. I t s highest degree is when concentration is centered on only one object. Keep the spine upright and balance the head over the axis of the body, positioning your legs in the most comfor table position: ‘Padmasana’, with feet resting upon the thighs, or ‘Siddhasana’, with feet tucked in. Kosta and his pioneering brand of yoga, Vikasa, represent the ‘evolution of yoga’. His vision is one of raising human consciousness and
konstantin ‘kosta’ miachin
making the world a better place by spreading the message of love and peace. This mighty task is being
Warrior III Vhirabhadrasana III (medium)
accomplished at Vikasa yoga retreat by focusing
‘Warrior III’ is one of the key poses taught in Vikasa
on the study of yoga with an emphasis on holistic
Yoga for the great degree that it works on so many
health, organic food and an inspiring environment that
dif ferent par t s of the body. One leg is standing
is conducive to personal transformation.
vertical, whilst the rest of the body is horizontal to the ground. It is an incredible tool for reshaping the
Kosta’s passion for yoga blossomed in 2004 when he
legs and healing old injuries in the ankles or knees.
set out on his own journey of self-discovery. This journey
Vikasa’s approach is to hold the ‘Half-moon pose’ for
has taken him to the far reaches of the world, from
an extended period of time before holding ‘Warrior III’
remote Himalayan ashrams to his initiation by a mas-
for almost the same amount of time on the same side.
ter monk in a sacred Sak-Yant ceremony in the North
It’s a real challenge, but if you come down, rest a few
East of Thailand. Kosta is a certified yoga instruc-
breaths, and do it again, you won’t believe how much
tor with four different schools - Yoga 23 (Ukraine),
easier it gets practicing it this way.
Sivananda (India), Ashtanga Vinyasa (Thailand) and Andiappan Yoga (Hong Kong) - and maintains close ties to many other yoga schools around the world. The vision for Vikasa yoga was born on Koh Samui with Kosta’s realization that the deeper dimension of yoga is a spiritual journey and a conscious evolution endeavor, he committed his life to supporting others
Arm Balance for Sage Koundinya Koundinyasana II (advanced)
on this path. With his wealth of knowledge and expe-
Koundinya was a famous sage of the ancient world who
rience came the understanding that yoga is an ever
also started a kingdom. His name is still known in some
evolving process and unfolding of one’s own nature.
yogic related traditions in Thailand and Cambodia.
Thus the concept of yoga as a constant evolution was
This arm balancing pose requires the well-developed
born as ‘Vikasa: the evolution of yoga by Konstantin
strength that comes from a good, long ‘chaturanga’
Miachin’.
practice, as well as lots of flexibility in the hamstrings
of the individual. Seeing this as the ultimate human
and hips. It develops abdominal health whilst strengthening the arms and thighs. The pose can be entered into in a variety of ways, but Vikasa most commonly teaches it from ‘down-dog split’ or ‘snail pose’.
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Half Bound Lotus Seated Forward Bend Ardha Baddha Paschimotanasana (easy) A not too complicated pose with a rather long name... though it does require a high degree of hip mobility. Any foot placed into the ‘lotus’ position should be fully up so that the ankle is what actually rests on the thigh while the foot hangs over in its natural orientation (no twisting the ankle). The stretch works essentially the same as the normal ‘seated forward-bending pose’, but with the additional benefit of the binding arm to the lotus foot creating heightened body intelligence and mental mapping.
Bettina ‘Betti’ Maul Betti is a registered Yoga teacher and Reiki master with a
Extended Hand to Big Toe Pose Uttihita Hasta Padangushtasana (medium) This is a fun challenge of flexibility and balance. It creates noticeable achievements in working hamstring flexibility, hip rotation, and maintaining a stable standing posture on one leg. For this reason it’s also excellent for developing a balanced and healthy alignment for the pelvis. Think of the free arm as your own expressive avenue or just as a balancing aid. Touching the tips of the fingers to the thumb actually helps with balance. Try it!
deep rooting in Vipassana meditation. Yoga has been an essential tool in her journey, and one that she is passionate about sharing with others. She mainly teaches Akanda Yoga and Hatha Yoga (Flow) classes. Betti has studied and practiced yoga for more than 10 years in diverse styles and at different settings in Europe and all over Asia. Believing that one of the essential parts of yoga is meditation, she has developed broad experience in several meditation techniques. Having an extensive corporate background at several international
Full Split Hanumanasana (advanced)
companies, she knows that integrating yoga into your demanding daily life
This pose is characterized by working the full range of mobility in oppo-
can be quite a challenge. Her sessions encourage her students to relax
site movements. One leg goes forward and the other leg goes backwards.
and unwind, but also show how to build a daily practice for a balanced
This is an Asana to work up to slowly and enter into slowly, revealing
and healthy life at home.
exceptionally well how much the body can change from day-to-day. The beauty of ‘Hanumasana’ is how it naturally creates a radiating and expressive heart awareness. Splitting the legs this way also facilitates healthy pelvic alignment.
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In response to the scientific surge, there has been an increasing demand for non-intimidating products containing herbal Eastern ingredients, often derived from traditional medicines developed over hundreds of years. Market researcher Mintel has stated that Eastern ingredients have now carved out their own individual segment of the Western market, which began with the increased popularity of Eastern BB creams in the West but has since expanded to include many other items. For example, the beauty industry in Thailand alone has grown 44% since only 2008.
Give it a try: Three easy, homemade facemasks using Asian ingredients for your skin care needs!
A large share of the growth in Eastern influence can be attributed to
The Benefits of Increasing Eastern Ingredients in the Western Beauty Market
traditional Asian botanical ingredients that were already familiar to
Though snail mucin and snake venim may not be your
the Western consumer, but have increased in availability and type of
cup of tea, here are three easy-to-make facemasks using
applications. Asia’s staple food – rice – that can be used in both its milk
widespread natural Eastern ingredients that you can try
and bran oil forms, is rich in vitamin E and incredible for skin nourishment
at home.
and sun protection. Additionally, white tea leaves and buds, which contain high levels of antioxidants to fight aging, are harvested for use in skin care have been used for centuries in Chinese herbology, as both an antioxidant
1 Tablespoon of Hibiscus Tea
and anti-sun element, and in Ayurveda, the traditional medicinal system
1 Tablespoon of Honey
of India, to halt premature hair loss and graying.
Plain Unbleached Oatmeal
Other Eastern ingredients helping to carve out this new market segment
Boil hibiscus tea for 30-40 minutes with a quarter cup of
are relatively new additions to Western beauty world. Asian holy basil,
water. Mix 2 tablespoons of hibiscus brew with the honey.
a sweet basil found in South East Asia, has recently exploded onto the
Add to oatmeal and mix until paste is formed. Apply to
British and North American market from India due to its anti-oxidant and
clean face for 10–15 minutes. Rinse with lukewarm water
anti-inflammatory properties. Wakame, a Japanese seaweed, has been
then cold water. Pat dry with clean towel.
used by Japanese women as an anti-aging treatment for centuries; now, the seaweed can be found in facemasks and creams in the West. It has natural UV protection, and helps to prevent the loss of hyaluronic acid,
Wakame: For Anti-Aging
which is vital for skin’s elasticity. Lastly, tamanu oil made from tamanu trees native to Asia, is used for the treatment of a variety of skin conditions
2 Tablespoons of Ground Wakame
including eczema and psoriasis, and can be mixed in smaller proportions
1 Tablespoon of Honey
into lotions to relieve most minor skin irritations.
1 Tablespoon of Aloe Vera Gel 3 drops of Fennel Essential Oil (optional)
Recently, some of the most bizarre fads in the Western beauty world have also come from the East; products using shark oil, squid ink, bee mucus
Grind dehydrated wakame in a food processor, coffee
and snake venom are all emerging. Perhaps the two most famous, however,
grinder, or with hands until it is in a fine powder. In a bowl,
are creams derived from snail mucin and pitera.
add 1-2 tablespoons of lukewarm water to the ground wakame, just enough to submerge the seaweed. Mix with
Snail creams, widely popular in Korea, have recently become available
a fork. Wait for 5 minutes whilst the wakame re-hydrates.
in the US as well. The mucin, which contains a unique blend of proteins,
Drain excess liquid. Mix all ingredients in a bowl. Apply to
glycolic acids and elastin, has an incredible restorative effect on damaged
clean face for 20 minutes. Rinse with lukewarm water. Pat
tissue and moisture retention. It can be used to reduce pigmentation,
dry with clean towel.
scarring, and to treat acne. One step further: snail facials, which began
Words by Melinda naylor
in Japan, and utilize live snails placed directly on the face, are currently being researched in clinical studies in the West. Pitera, the yeast used
Asian Holy Basil: For Acne
Western skin care regimens are all about the cutting edge
to ferment sake, refines and evens out skin texture and tone. This was
of science. Consumers have come to expect - and demand - products
discovered when sake producers in Japan realized their hands were much
1 Bunch of Fresh Asian Basil Leaves
rooted in extensive research, backed up by clinical studies and staggering
softer, and had less signs of aging, than their faces.
1 Tablespoon of Plain Greek Yoghurt
before-and-after photos. Classic ingredients like vitamin E have given way
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Hibiscus: For Dry Skin
products. Increasingly, Western products include hibiscus flowers, which
3 drops of Tea Tree Essential Oil (optional)
to futuristic items, including rare gems and probiotics. Western products
No matter how extreme they may seem, these now widely available
have even begun utilizing the addition of human sourced ingredients like
Eastern ingredients - which range from rice to snail mucus - provide natural
Mash fresh basil leaves in a food processor or by hand until
gag-inducing placenta, human stem cells, breast milk and sperm (an anti-
alternatives to the many chemical options available in standard Western
a mushy consistency is acquired. Mix all ingredients in a
oxidant considered 20-30 times more powerful than vitamin E!). Recently,
products. Western women are increasingly recognizing their inherent
small bowl. Apply to clean face for 5 – 10 minutes. Rinse
however, there has been an increase in the use of more alternative and
value: natural, holistic, and vetted over hundreds of years of traditional
with lukewarm then cold water. Pat dry with clean towel.
natural Eastern ingredients within the beauty industry.
medicinal treatments.
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SPOTLIGHT ON:
TOTO
The Thai artist with an obsession for detail
Khun Katika Krachaisri, better known as
they get it: “I follow their eyes, their reaction, their
Toto, is from the province of Surin, about
breathing, everything! They react just as I do when I
430km east from Bangkok. Surin’s city motto is
see something that I like.”
“Surin: the land of elephants, splendid silk, beautiful silver beads, stone castles, sweet cabbage, aromatic
Toto’s train of thought is a locomotive of iner tial
rice, and beautiful culture.” Moreover, vivid dyes and
qualities. She admits to be a notoriously slow-starter
exquisite patterns hold healthy heritage here too, and
and begins her work with a simple outline that can
it is of no surprise to see the beauty of these themes
come from an idea, a dream, or even a piece of jewelry.
and concepts coursing through Toto’s work. One is hit
The meticulous nature of her work means that she has
by color - and lots of it - when looking at her vibrant
time to think and reflect with every dot applied and
canvasses, where the painting and the artist implore
that she often changes the direction of the narrative
you to step forward: to step in and see.
several times throughout the course of a session.
The incredible detail within Toto’s work is immediately apparent and, depending on the piece, the tools used vary between pigment, acrylic, colorful beads, or indeed all three. “My work is so detailed because life is so detailed, and so are my dreams and my imagination”, she remarks. As common as the cliché of Art Imitating Life is, one is faced with a world of binary oppositions in Toto’s paintings. The definitive detail that represent s life today, mashed with the simple symbolism that was used to convey messages and teachings in Neolithic caves, is at the core of Toto’s philosophy and inspiration. “Before words, people used images to deliver a message… and they still do.” Every painting is borne out of inspiration and not the need to paint; every painting has a meaning and Toto lives in every
“My paintings are my meditation and my world” Images and ideas that are mentally stored come to the fore, all shouting and challenging to be shown. “Once I am in [the painting], I can’t stop! I’ll crawl to my crypt like a vampire as the sun comes up in my studio. I won’t eat, drink or anything. But for whatever reason I do get stopped, it is very difficult to get going again.” This cathartic quest is Toto’s power source: “my paintings are my meditation and my world… the detail is my life and proceeding with one dot after another after another refers to every step that I take in life.” Even Toto’s name, which in Latin means “all encompassing”, can be seen as a direct reflection upon her work.
one of them. The animals and monsters in her work represent individuals and collectives and, like other
Words by Kev Goldsmith
Aboriginal and Buddhist imagery, the innate characteristics of animals serve to represent humans better, for humans are talented at hiding behind a façade or a mask. Shapes and plants help serve to represent emotion, ethereal endeavor and life, health, wealth and happiness. Toto does not like to convey the deeper meanings within her paintings herself. Instead, she prefers for the viewer to find the meaning themselves rather than be directed towards it, otherwise they can never fully understand it. When at an exhibition or at a viewing with one of her clients, she says she can see when
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For Rick Saint, this year’s ‘Out of Their Shadows’ exhibition at Chomp in Bangkok’s Thanon Lamphu represents a culmination of work as well as a journey that has taken this American photographer around the world physically and artistically. Originally from the deep south of the United States, Saint has found a home and a calling here in Bangkok that is particularly evident by his collection of bodyscapes within the exhibition.
SPOTLIGHT ON: rick saint The American photographer with a fetish for black & white Words by Greg Johnson
The description of the exhibition, ‘When the lights go down, the darkness reveals not everything is black and white’, could also be an apt description of Rick’s evolution in the arts. He started out his career as a school teacher in the States before landing in Korea for four years. Upon coming to Korea, his primary mode of artistic expression was through paintings in a variety of mixed media. Finding painting supplies difficult to source without the benefit of fluency in the local language, Rick migrated to expressing his talents through the lens of a camera instead. His day job as a
the media of photography”. The opening of the gallery
teacher allowed him to explore the rest of Asia with his
at Chomp included a photo booth where visitors could
camera each year for three uninterrupted months and
take pictures of themselves, and a message board
he eventually discovered the photographic treasure
for people to leave their own comments or reactions.
trove that are the people and culture of Thailand.
The feedback received spanned the gamut from positive - including lots of people who identified their
In addition to the exhibition at Chomp, Saint has
“favorites” amongst the gallery - to more negative
produced a large body of other, more varied, works
reactions towards the nudity of the collection, though
since coming to Asia. In many of his efforts in Thailand
there were only four actual nude photographs on
he has captured the quiet but exotic beauty of this country through candid as well as posed shots of its citizenry as well as scores of prints depicting both the natural beauty found up-country as well as some of the more unique architecture found in Bangkok and its surrounding environs. Moreover, Rick’s photography of
‘When the lights go down, the darkness reveals not everything is black & white’
Korea is especially interesting with his use of black & white photographs that emphasize the austere and
display. This dichotomy of responses is exactly what
frigid side of this country in the winter.
the artist is looking for, according to Saint. “If you stir up deep issues, you have done your job as an artist”,
Of his latest work, however, Rick describes the
is his comment on his own effort in expressing his art.
‘Out of Their Shadows’ collection as his “accidental
“When you display your work for others to react to,
exhibition” that originates from the work he has done
you are looking for an emotional response. The worst
as an ar tistic photographer. The subjects on the
reaction you can have is ambivalence”.
other side of his camera would often ask for pictures in exchange for posing, and over time his reputation
Summing up his work on display at Chomp, Rick
as a “safe nudes photographer” has allowed him to
encourages visitors to observe the exhibition with an
generate a large collection of extra shots left over
open mind in order to gain the most enjoyment from
from these sessions. The end result is a gallery of 22
his photographic effort. As he says about his works:
photos and over 100 projected slides documenting
“once you remove the labels, you can really enjoy the
these individuals’ exploration of themselves and their
people around you - as well as yourself”.
hidden desires, each exposing their personality and sexuality through the lens. The subjects of the pictures are a random collection
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of straight, gay and bi-sexual models who, as Rick
More of Rick’s works can be found at
indicates, “were trying to find their true selves through
www.RickSaint.com
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SPOTLIGHT ON: nanalala The eco-friendly artist with a distinct style
Amidst the eclectic enclave of artisans in
I love how they speak to me! And once I see that perfect
Bangkok’s world-famous Jatujak Market
piece, I know exactly what I will do with it!” Buying in
is a quaint yet impres sive eco-friendly
excess, Nana adds, may admittedly be her weakness,
art shop and studio that commands your
as she often returns home lamenting on the increased
at t en t i o n a n d a d m ir at i o n . Eponymously
work that she has just created for herself.
named by its owner, NanaLaLa Shop is open every weekend from late morning until late evening and can
A labor of love is precisely what it is, however.
be found in section seven, Soi five of “JJ” Market.
The messages in Nana’s work and the recycled, repurposed materials that convey them come from a
Borne out of a love of collage as a young girl, Khun
teenage realization that occurred whilst considering
Nana, this terrifically talented twenty-something
her place on this planet. “I was lost like many other
welcomes countless far-flung customers into her
youths and asked questions about life. The conclusion
shop and her world every weekend.
I came to is that we are all on one planet, it’s our only home and we are all a product of nature. The basic
On the path that brought Nana here: “I remember loving
reaction should be to embrace nature and to help her.”
to draw as some of my earliest memories and it has become my preferred medium for self-expression and
The Al Gore global warming documentary directed by
escapism.” Despite the amazing array of articles and
Davis Guggenheim, An Inconvenient Truth, certainly
artefacts that can be purchased from the NanaLaLa
had an impact on Nana. “I saw the planet as a sick and
shop, it is drawing that Nana enjoys most, “I doodle
angry Grandma who has been ignored for a long time,
all of the time; I let my hand communicate with my
forgotten about what she’d brought us,” she says.
heart and allow them to express my feelings and this
Consequently, self-study, donating some of her weekly
is where my ideas come from.”
allowance to Greenpeace, observation and reflection soon created today’s NanaLaLa Shop.
The variet y of themes, symbol s, material s and messages throughout Nana’s work can be seen somewhat on her Facebook page, but do not prepare you for the breadth and depth of artistic flair to be found once inside the shop. Jewelry and accessories are exquisite, whilst upholstered items such as scatter cushions are so tactile and enamoring that
“I let my hand communicate with my heart and allow them to express my feelings and this is where my ideas come from”
it is difficult to put them back down. Elsewhere,
Words by Kev Goldsmith
del ic a te p os t c ar ds sp or t ing Nana’s endear ing
“A lot of people who make that small change for the
illustrations welcome you into the shop, whilst ornate
better of the planet do make a big difference - I want
frames adorn the walls to display them on a larger scale.
my government to do more to create cleaner cities and better recycling systems, and invest in better waste
The coarse, cute and commercial textures, the creative
management and clean energy.”
use of oft-overlooked objects, and the femininity of Nana’s work does engender tactility, but Nana states
Knowing first-hand how difficult it is for people to
that this is not in her mind when sourcing materials,
consider more than their own agenda is not lost on
“I can say that textures are not in my thoughts when
Nana, and while she hopes that her work does inspire
I am working. I let the materials speak to me, but I do
and perhaps educate, the fact that her work is so
not select them for their textures.”
popular adds more than enough fuel to her fire. “What I can do best is to do more of what I am already doing.
“I love going to the flea market and the junkyard - rum-
My work is bought, shared and spread around the
maging through all of those items, finding charming
world, and I know that they get the message!”
objects that are broken, rusty, faded and imperfect…
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Samui:
The Ultimate Luxury Lifestyle Brand Samui’s journey towards establishing itself as Thailand’s prime high-end destination.
The progression towards Samui’s legitimate Luxury Destination peerage is coming about because of a cooperative synergy between the island’s administration and the aggregate of developers and business owners who have realized their ideals while working creatively through adversity and growth-affecting restrictions. Pessimistic comment containing the words “undeveloped” and “overpriced” had once been associated with Samui’s competitiveness with other Thai destinations. However, while the other destinations have had more time and arguably less obstacles to create a destination with distinction, it is Samui that is now the talk of the town. For a long time, Samui’s photogenic airport was limited in the restriction to 36 daily flights, all privately owned by its monopolizing master, Bangkok Airways, whose ownership of the airport allowed them to set unprecedented high prices. Tourists assumed that Thailand, despite her glaring diversity, should be a transparent, one-price set up and a lot of noise was soon made about high costs, monopolies and downright unfairness. The premium prices pushed many tourists out of the market and caused them to choose other Thai destinations that were considered comparatively ‘better value’. In this sense, there was
Words by kev goldsmith
no market. Taking the retail maxim ‘you get what you pay for’ and grafting it with Marx’s Form of Value demonstrates that those who believed Samui was not worth the trip based on comparative cost alone were precisely the type of consumer that the Samui market didn’t want. Today’s businesses, both big brand and boutique, are thriving in Samui because of its high-end customer-base.
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have flattened any contrast between high and low seasons.” Emma states, “people are moving to Samui as a lifestyle choice: good weather almost all year round, healthy food and a relaxed atmosphere. Expats in Hong Kong, KL and Singapore are now able to hop over for a long weekend too, owing to the direct flights.” Semi-retired individuals and couples, families and expatriates looking for long-term rental make up some of Emma’s turnover. Fresh demand from private investors keen to capitalize on challenging and healthy rental demand are snapping up older townhouses, villas and land, and tastefully redeveloping them to appeal to the current demographic of tenants and buyers. “With work and a good property management company, people do make good money doing this.” Increased demand from Thai buyers testify to the mid to long-term value in owning property on Samui at the higher price points.
“I cannot definitively say that I deal with more clients from a particular country... but one common denominator is that they wish to spend”
The evolution of the island as a luxur y brand can be seen throughout Samui, as can the four roadmaps to achieving the Green Samui initiative, and the life cycles of each have been deliberately connected across several critical control points by the Mayor of Samui, Mr. Ramnate Chaikwang. The Green Samui vision will deliver via four key areas of waste management, water management, sustainable transport and energy. There can be no viable, thriving Samui without the ongoing, immediate and short-term investment and attention to these critical areas.
Market confidence in Samui is now at an all-time high:
“people are moving to Samui as a lifestyle choice: good weather almost all year round, healthy food and a relaxed atmosphere“
tourists, tenants, buyers and businesses are coming in record numbers, investing a lot of money and creating jobs. Huge noticeable shifts in style, substance and supply are sweeping across the island. Miss Emma Johnson, Managing Director of Overseas Property Portfolio, chose Samui to set up her independent real estate company in 2008 after visiting several key areas of Thailand because she believed
The global luxury brands that began to invest in Samui’s unique
that it had more growth potential than anywhere else
potential just a few years ago are already reaping rewards and the
in the country. Emma’s clients are from all over the
social, economic and environmental benefits can be seen right
world. “I cannot definitively say that I deal with more
across the board. Mr. Tibor Szedlak, Managing Director of The
clients from a particular country – they are as varied in
Mandalay Samui Developments & Consultancy has witnessed
their demands as their backgrounds - but one common
this first-hand, having formed his multiple award-winning
denominator is that they wish to spend,” she says.
company on the island just as the first condos were being built in
“Families are emigrating here for work, for business or
2007. “Samui has come of age!” he beams, “Even through 2011/12
simply for time out. The increase in improved resources
Samui still represented a safe haven for investors as rental
makes this a special part of the world to live.”
remained strong and there were impressive yields, especially in the luxury market.”
Emma pointed to the International School of Samui, who now have a Sixth Form that follows the British
“The record hotel occupancy levels through 2012 (68%) are a
National Curriculum from Kindergarten through to
clear signifier of the island’s immense popularity.” Tibor, fresh
18-years-old (Sixth Form) and teaches the rigorous
from finishing his most ambitious and deservedly acclaimed
and rewarding A-Level certification, as a huge boom
development The Mandalay Beach Villas, is looking forward
to the island.
to further unprecedented growth. “You simply have a greater selection of everything from hospitals to hotels and festivals to
As well as property and land sales, Emma sees ten-
first-class dining.”
ants booking for month-long stays with budgets of 40-150k+ baht per month (US$ 1.3 – 5k), “demand is very high for well-appointed villas and the longer rentals
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Working closely with the Mayor and his administration is the
The continued growth and exposure that Samui is enjoying, the
cooperative collective: businesses and brands that know what
mindful nurturing of Boutique Brand Samui and the subsequent
the luxury traveler wants. “Year on year this is being improved
hotel occupancy figures for the first half of 2013 (7% up on last
upon - sustainably and sensibly - it has quickly become well
year’s historic figures) point to a future that everyone is looking
established and is showing signs that it is maturing nicely.”
forward to.
He applauds the tireless efforts from the municipality and private sector developers for maintaining the core beauty of the
Tibor and Emma’s final words echoed those of almost everyone
island and the extra steps that they have taken to ensure the
else with an opinion about what Samui can do next: the much
island’s bright future.
talked-about Marina. Tibor said that “This will allow Samui to compete further and it will help cement Samui as a leading
Notwithstanding, there are a couple of issues that Tibor would
luxury destination in the region.” When asked where this would
like to see adjusted so that Samui can capitalize further: “Major
happen, Emma replied, “That is uncertain right now – a lot of
differences between ASEAN markets such as foreign property
people speak with great confidence as to where it will be, but
ownership, alien business laws and tax systems need to be
if everyone was correct, there will be around fifteen Marinas
fine-tuned. Once these areas are managed efficiently, the gap
on Samui!” Both Tibor and Emma are confident that it will be
in competitiveness among the real estate markets in ASEAN
initiated within the next few years.
should become narrower, and every market will then be able to capture most, if not all, of the opportunities that will follow the
Samui: being considered less ‘value for money’ than other Thai
connectivity and collaboration within the sub-region.”
destinations at the budget end, correctly slowed the development and growth of that aspect of the island. This gave a few
Further immediate cause for celebration is the arrival of the
thoughtful folk the time to look, listen and learn from their
Central Mall in Chaweng, scheduled to open in March 2014.
rapidly expanding contemporaries. They made the best out of the
Forever heralded as Samui’s tourism core, Chaweng is also
adversities and qualities that the island had while thoughtfully
experiencing welcome redevelopment and change. “The mall
applying the fundamentals of the essence of a luxury brand.
will simply bring a lot more jobs to the island while providing
This niche has been nurtured and the realization of this success
a vital economic injection and of course the familiarity and
can be seen, as Samui itself is becoming the brand, to wit, the
pleasure that recognizable brands in a well-appointed mall
leading luxury destination in the region.
brings,” says Emma. While this shares some symbolism with the fabled Tortoise and One other early opener for 2014 is the OZO Chaweng Samui.
Hare, this is a very real and somewhat romantic allegory, for
Part of the ONYX Hospitality Group, the OZO can conveniently
Samui does share the victorious and the verdant qualities of the
conclude this commentary by demonstrating the clear direction
tortoise. This is a Green Samui, and it’s Green for Go.
and theme of progression towards luxury provision on offer throughout Samui. It is a clear homage to the backpacking heritage that Chaweng has, but it will deliver affordable luxury, revitalizing the idea of smart travel. ‘Flash-packing’ is a more colloquial term that grasps this concept: the same core demands of distinct quality and luxury but with a little less floor space.
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Low Carbon Samui Words by Kev Goldsmith
Few people would argue with Koh Samui’s paradisiacal
The local government has made it a priorit y to
high power consuming processes, are underway in
status: its countless sandy beaches, ubiquitous palm trees, and
have Koh Samui awarded a low-carbon distinction.
communities throughout the island.
jungle-carpeted mountains are what tropical fantasies are made from. As
Deputy Director-General of the Alternative Energy
Thailand’s second largest island, Samui’s greenery and sandy white edges
and Efficiency Department, Twarath Sutabutr, is on
Rezoning the island to protect green space, the
draw in an increasing amount of tourism each year. But without careful
record to have said that Koh Samui has been selected
creation of a public transportation system to help
consideration of the impact of continued development, Samui could lose this
by the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation Group as a
reduce private car and motorcycle use, and the
natural beauty. If steps are not taken to protect Samui’s environment, the
model low-carbon island for the region, with a goal of
increased use of alternative energy such as solar or
main draw of Samui – namely, its stunning scenery – could itself be at risk.
reducing energy consumption over the next three to
wind power are all part of the future campaign for a
five years, while maintaining an increase in hotel room
sustainable green Koh Samui. Government and the
Fortunately, efforts to reduce the effects of increased development are
availabilities by 30%.
the press, Green Island projects have been ongoing. Government, business,
T he c ommuni t y is al s o de eply involve d, t ak ing
and the community have all been striving together to save the unique
initiatives that are specifically designed to promote
environment that makes Koh Samui the dream vacation destination for
Koh Samui internationally as a ‘green’ destination.
people from all over the world. And the years of hard work are paying off.
Local communities and community leaders work at
Several resorts, for example, have been created from the ground up with
available on hotel and restaurant menus, which
having locally grown fresh fruits and vegetables
The local government has made it a priority to have Koh Samui awarded a low-carbon distinction
‘Green Sustainability’ in mind. From the selection of local building materials
reduces the negative effects of transportation upon the
to reduce environmental impact, to strategies to best utilize the land and
environment. Regional handicraf ts, made locally
Samui is a tourist island, and that will not change.
minimize the effects on water drainage patterns, increased recycling,
and using local materials and traditional techniques,
What can change, however, is how this tourism
planning of eco-friendly transportation, and reduced energy-use schemes
reduces the influx of products to the island, while at
effects and interacts with the environment and the
and programs, these resorts strive to lessen their ‘footprint’ on Samui’s
the same time helps the local economy.
on for all the island’s resorts to increase their sustainability activities.
local community. By taking proactive steps to reduce the effects of future development, and by educating
surroundings. Visitors to Samui are often eco-savvy, and the pressure is
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private sector are uniquely in-step on these efforts, which bodes well for Samui and its inhabitants.
well under way, and have been for years. Even before it was ‘popular’ in
The reduction of energy used is also an important part
visitors, locals, and businesses in positive practices that
of any green plan strategy, as increased population
they can each take to reduce their impact, the future
The Thai government is al so heavily involved, both federally and
puts a strain on the power grid, and it is clear that
is looking bright and green for beautiful Koh Samui.
provincially, as well as locally. The Tourism Authority of Thailand
the population of Samui will continue to grow for the
aims to encourage corporate tourism partners to pledge their support
foreseeable future. All electrical power on Samui
for the “7 Greens” plan. This plan hopes to urge tourists and visitors to
comes from the mainland, but there are plans to
the island to be environmentally aware; to increase the availability of
increase this power by 5%, which should be adequate
environmentally friendly forms of transportation; to promote conserva-
to supply the island for the next 10 years. While
tion and traditional ways of life; to promote tourist destinations that are
increased power output is important in any long-term
eco-aware; to advance tourist attractions that are respectful and mindful
preparation, energy c onsumption must al so be
of local communities; and to encourage corporate partners to refrain from
reduced wherever possible. Energy conser vation
any activities that might prove harmful to the environment.
education, as well as eco-friendly alternatives to
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Fisherman’s Village A Taste of the Old and New Words by andrew creadie
Nestled in the crown of Koh Samui’s land-
the distance. There are over 30 bars and restaurants
If clothes shopping is more your thing, Fisherman’s
scape, Fisherman’s Vill age - a seafront
to choose from, so you can rest assured that whatever
Village is an unexpected and refreshing change from the
section of Boput on the beautiful north
you are in the mood for, Fisherman’s Village will gladly
tacky T-shirts and neon-shorts shops you will usually
coast - is a must-see for anyone visiting the
accommodate. Of course seafood is plentiful and
find at tourist destinations (although you can find those
island. This shopping and dining mecca combines
the main culinary draw to the area, being fresh and
here as well). Vintage boutiques such as Bonjour, or
the quaint authenticity of a traditional Thai fishing
available in many national traditions, from Thai to
bohemian-chic Amrapalli, feature local designer-wear,
village with a selection of some of Koh Samui’s best
French to Italian.
much of which is hand-made. There is a sensation of
international cuisine options. Upscale, midscale, and
elegance at Fisherman’s Village that is unique in
affordable restaurants, all housed in traditional Thai
But if you are not a seafood lover, or if you are simply in
Thailand, and you will be forgiven if you suddenly sense
and Thai/Chinese buildings; an exciting weekly night
the mood for a choice cut of Australian or New Zealand
you have stepped into a Mediterranean village. It is here
market; and, the opportunity to sample a wide variety
beef, or some savory Indian delights, Fisherman’s
that you will also find quality jewelry and accessories
of local fashion, arts, and crafts makes this one of Koh
Village will not disappoint. Friendly owners, hosts, and
that you won’t see anywhere else in Thailand, making it
Samui’s premiere tourist attractions.
hostesses will entice you by their restaurant’s door-
the perfect destination for putting together an effortless,
way to check out their menu, but the sales-pitch is
sophisticated island ensemble once you arrive.
Fisherman’s Village is quite compact, consisting
usually low-key and friendly, being more informative
mainly of a single street that runs along the beach for
than coercive. If you aren’t hungry when you first arrive,
just under 700 meters. Restaurants on the north side
their descriptions of the menu items might cause you
of the street, of which there are many to choose from,
to become so rather quickly. If you are not in the mood
all back directly onto the beach, offering stunning
for a full meal but need to sit down and take a load
views for a family lunch or a perfect romantic moonlit
off, there are coffee shops and bars ready to delight.
dinner for two, sipping wine and watching the green
Try a healthy smoothie at Woody A Shop & Bar or opt
lights of the fishing boats bobbing along the ocean in
for sophistication with a tea at the Namcha Teahouse.
There are over 30 bars and restaurants to choose from, so you can rest assured that whatever you are in the mood for, Fisherman’s Village will gladly accommodate. The single biggest draw to the area, however, is the fant astic Friday Night-Market . T he entire area becomes a pedestrian-only zone and the center for trinket shopping; sampling of delicious foods from car ts and street vendors; and par taking in some refreshing beverages from one of the many ad-hoc impromptu bars that line the street from one end to the other. From traditional Thai favorites like chicken satay, to fair-style food like spiral fried potato on a stick, there is something for every taste. The atmosphere is friendly and relaxed, even during the busy season when the street can be very crowded. No matter what time of day or year you decide to visit, or whatever your initial interests, Fisherman’s Village will be sure to delight and surprise you, and should be a compulsory item on every visitor’s itinerary to the beautiful island of Samui.
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Weekend Away: Railay
Thailand’s Unspoiled Gem 036
One of Thailand’s most beautiful get-away
The beaches here are breathtaking. You will be hard
destinations is Railay, a peninsula in the
pressed to resist the urge to pull out your camera the
K r a bi prov ince on the country ’s w es t
moment you first step onto the fine white sand. The
coast. Lapped by the blue waters of the Andaman
crystal clear waters of the Andaman Sea will seduce you,
Sea, Railay consists of a strip of land situated between
and you will soon find yourself slipping into the water,
two beaches, a short 5 minute walk separating the two.
noting instantly how perfect the water temperature is.
In addition, several smaller, more secluded beaches
Words by Jennifer Watts
serve as home to some of Thailand’s most beautiful
The nor th-facing beach is the stuf f of dreams.
and exclusive resorts. The scenery here is astounding
Approximately 70 0 meters of fine white sand is
and unforgettable, and the quiet, peaceful atmosphere
bracketed on both ends by impressive limestone cliffs.
makes Railay the per fect romantic destination.
Far off in the distance, small islands - little more than
The clientele here is generally composed of upscale
giant boulders - poke out of the surface of the water like
couples seeking the perfect place to gently unwind.
stone mushroom caps. The beachfront is lined by a variety
No trip to Thailand is truly complete without a weekend
of hotels and hotel restaurants, offering every imaginable
spent at Railay.
type of cuisine just steps from the sandy paradise.
While it is attached to the mainland, Railay’s beaches are
From here on the north beach you can hire a long-tail
only accessible by a short, 10 minute long-tail boat ride
boat to visit the surrounding islands. Poda Island, with
from Krabi town as Railay is separated from the rest
iconic scenery featured in The Man With a Golden
of Thailand by tall, stunning cliff-faces. These long-tail
Gun, is a photographer’s dream. Not to mention the
boats are readily and easily available. Your resort will
snorkeling, which is guaranteed to present you with
happily arrange transportation for you, but if you prefer
the opportunity to see hundreds (if not thousands) of
to take care of these details yourself, be assured that
tropical fish darting about the abundant coral.
these arrangements are easily made upon arrival.
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If you are of adventurous spirit then you might consider taking rock-climbing and repelling lessons. The lime-stone cliffs are the perfect place to learn, and the scenery at the top must be stunning… only those who are brave enough to attempt the climb will ever know! Lessons and climbing happen every day, all year round, weather permitting. Fortunately, the weather usually permits. Night-life on Railay is exciting, but ver y relaxed. There are various entertainment options at your disposal. The fact that Railay has no large dance-club or disco is a positive feature rather than a criticism. If you are looking for bright and loud, Railay is not your place. You can ‘slum it’ with the bohemian crowd at the far end of the south beach, and enjoy some live reggae, or enjoy the more sophisticated entertainment at the luxury resort bars. But, almost assuredly, you will want to spent part of your night quietly strolling the beach, admiring the stars, wondering at the giant cliffs (beautifully lit up at night from below) and taking in the beauty that is Railay. While definitely not as stunning as its northern neighbor, the south beach is
Rayavadee Resort
If you r e a lly wa n t to m a k e your v isit to R ail ay a truly memor able, once in a lifetime e xperience, consider checking into the luxury Rayavadee Resort. This is luxury at its most natural. On its own private beach, this resort is nestled between stunning cliffs, blue seas, and green palm forests. It truly is one of the most beautiful places on Earth.
well worth a visit. At low tide it becomes a large mud flat, with a small bluff of fascinating mangrove trees perched atop their exposed roots. When the
The facilities here are second to none. Hire yourself
tide is low the long-tail boats are unable to reach the shore, and a wheeled
one of their exclusive private villas, complete with
landing-dock is driven out onto the flats, pulled by an ancient tractor,
Jacuzzi, private swimming pool, and personal butler,
to meet new arrivals. A unique and memorable mode of transportation
or try one of their many two-story pavilions, either on
that will be one of the topics of discussion over drinks later as you sip a
the beach or hidden away amongst the palm trees.
cool cocktail at one of the many hotel bars or restaurants. Af ter rela xing in your own private, beautif ully There are many resorts here in Railay to choose from, each offering their
appointed suite, take your relaxation to the next level
own distinctive take on the natural serenity that the local environs evokes.
with a visit to the world-class spa for an aromatic oil
There are hotels fronting both of the larger beaches, as well as several
massage, or a traditional Thai massage. An impeccably
resorts inland, off the beach. Don’t necessarily write off those resorts
manicured private garden and an impressive outdoor
that do not have beachfront, as many of them have stunning mountain and
Jacuzzi surround this beautiful spa.
cliff-face or jungle views, and wonderful facilities. And no resort is further than a five minute stroll to the beach.
Kayaking, snorkeling, tennis, squash, rock climbing, and lounging pool-side are all among your recreational
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Even with the variety of resorts and its increasing popularity, Railay
choices. You can spend your afternoon partaking in high
remains an unspoiled natural gem, combining sea, sand, mountains and
tea, and your nights listening to live entertainment in
jungle forest in a unique and perfectly blended arrangement. You will be
the piano bar or having a romantic private meal by the
glad you came, and sorry to leave. And you will return.
beach followed by drinks at the beach bar. This is living!
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City break: Bangkok the city that never sleeps Words by Mark wright
Shimmering Golden Buddhas, glistening
These complexes, including the buzzing plaza of MBK
mosaic temples, bustling designer malls,
for median shoppers, are located in the city’s Central
palate rousing cuisine, pulsating night-
Business District, which forms one of the largest
life, serene l andscaped hideaways and
intersections in the capital known as Ratchprasong.
a rchit ect ur a l m a s t er pieces. Ba ngkok
This is where multi-hued taxis snake their way among
– Thail and’s capital. The nation’s political,
swarms of motorbikes as far as the eye can see.
social, economic hear t and soul. Considered one
Just a couple of dozen meters above the streets’
of the most prolific cities in the world, almost 12
kaleidoscope of colors, the city’s sky train system
million people jostle for space in this ever expanding
streams in commuters to the downtown center from
modern metropolis.
outlying suburbs.
Often considered the central hub of Asia, Bangkok
On the other side of town, boat taxis and private long-
provides trouble-free access from most major cities,
tail boats roar up and down the expansive artery known
including 700 flights a day to and from the city’s
as the Chao Phraya River, allowing passengers to
international airport, Suvarnabhumi. Prominent sites
experience riverside views and stop at countless points
such as the National Museum, the majestic Wat
along the waterway and network of intersecting canals,
Pho, and the resplendent Grand Palace, are just a
including the well-known floating markets.
few showpieces of which the city boasts. The latter is arguably the most opulent jewel in Bangkok’s
Massive, distinct, quirky, diverse, hot, bustling, yet
awe-inspiring array of gilded attractions.
magnificent. It may overload your senses when you first arrive but, due to its extraordinary identity, Bangkok’s
Also known as a shopping-mecca, Bangkok hosts a
unique appeal will gradually have you in its grasp.
number of world-renowned malls. The megalithic malls of Paragon and Siam Discovery offer many high-end Western brands, whilst Siam Center and Siam Square introduce a number of boutiques run by Thailand’s best design talent.
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Afternoon Tea at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Words by kirsty turner
T he ci t y of Ba ngkok i s fa mou s for i ts
extra surprises. As with any afternoon tea set, the main
decadent dining opportunities, but few
event here is the plate of scones, served fresh out of
experiences come close in terms of luxury
the oven and accompanied by fresh clotted cream and
and elegance to enjoying afternoon tea
preserves such as pomelo marmalade, raspberry
at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Afternoon
preserve and the intriguing ‘mystic rose petal jam’.
tea is served in the sophisticated Author’s Lounge, which is decorated in the Colonial style and hung with
The set al so includes an array of delicacies to
portraits of some of the famous writers that have
accommodate diverse tastes - whether it’s the simple
Pastry Chef Claus Olsen: the inspiration behind afternoon
stayed in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel over the years.
but flavorful ham and cheddar cheese sandwiches; the
tea at the Mandarin Oriental.
sugarcane smoked ‘Barbie duck in butter brioche roll’;
Claus Olsen was born in Denmark and has worked as a pastry chef for
The traditional afternoon set features all the standard snacks that you would expect, with a few extra surprises
or the mushroom and spinach turnover’s perfect blend
the last fifteen years. He started his career with the Mandarin Oriental
of ingredients. The potted crème brûlée was also a
Hotel Group in Las Vegas before transferring to Bangkok three years
real triumph, while it is easy to see why the Mandarin
ago. He says that one of the things that makes afternoon tea at the
Oriental is celebrated for its macaroons.
Mandarin Oriental Hotel really stand out is the fact that “the hotel staff are excellently trained and have full knowledge of all our teas, products,
For those wanting to sample some of the more local
development and the personal service,” and “the experience of having
flavors, the Thai afternoon tea set comes loaded with
tea in a hotel which was founded more than 137 years ago, surrounded
The Mandarin Oriental Hotel is celebrated for its
delicacies such as honey crisp vermicelli in rice flour
by images of the people who have spent time in the Author’s Lounge.”
excellent ser vice and, upon arrival, guests of the
shells, Thai curry and lotus seed puff, and pandanus
While many of the products used in the afternoon tea sets are sourced
af ternoon tea experience are immediately shown
leaf chiffon cake. This innovative afternoon tea set
locally, Claus says that they also import high quality ingredients such as
to their table in a st ylish room overlooking the
really stands out as it features both traditional Thai
butter and chocolate from countries like Denmark and France to ensure
hotel’s garden and the Chao Phraya River. Af ter
desserts, dating back more than fifty years, as well
that they meet the highest possible standards. While many of the
selecting their drink from an extensive tea, coffee
as Western tea treats with a Thai twist such as a
delicacies that you will find in the afternoon tea sets follow Western
and fruit juice menu, guests are given a moment to
soft and crumbly pandanus leaf and coconut scone;
classics, Chef Olsen says, “The Thai set was inspired by a mixture of
unwind in style before their treats arrive.
a lemongrass and Thai spiced tea sandwich; or turmeric
Bangkok’s renowned street food and more traditional Isaan dishes and
chicken and roasted chili jam in a wheat croissant.
flavors that can be found in the North.”
T h e t r a di t ional a f t er n o on s e t f e a t ur e s al l t h e standard snacks that you would expect, with a few
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The Patravadi Theatre has developed widely since its creation
The Patravadi Theatre Words by kirsty turner
No matter how long you spend in Bangkok, you will constantly discover new experiences and unknown treasures. One such gem
The Cheese Room at the Millennium Hilton hotel Words by kirsty turner
is the Patravadi Theatre. Located on the far banks of the Chao Phraya River, this special theatre serves as
Catching up with friends at the Millennium
a training ground for Thai artists and also showcases
Hilton hotel while enjoying a selection
both classical and contemporary work.
of fine cheeses is a deliciously decadent e x per ience t h at should not be mis sed
Situated in a beautifully ornate Thai-style garden,
while visiting the city of Bangkok. Cheese
from June to Februar y the space doubles as the
lovers will really be in their element as they are
open-air Patravadi Theatre, where up to 450 people
offered unlimited access to the Millennium Hilton
can enjoy weekend performances. This is Bangkok’s
hotel’s perfectly chilled and excellently presented
only open-air playhouse and offers a unique experience
Cheese Room.
for people who are looking for cultural entertainment. The experience begins with an atmospheric trip across In one corner of the garden, a photography gallery
the Chao Phraya River aboard the Millennium Hilton’s
displays images of past performances, whilst further
private boat. After stepping inside the Millennium
along is a large restaurant, of fering picturesque
Hilton hotel diners will catch their first glimpse of the
views across the river. Known as Studio 9, this dining
Cheese Room through tinted glass windows.
theatre by the river offers entertainment as well as tasty, affordable Thai food.
Diners who opt for this unforgettable experience will be shown to a table at the Flow restaurant, which is
The theatre itself was founded in 1992 by Patravadi
situated on the ground floor of the Millennium Hilton
Mejudhon, who also serves as the theatre’s artistic
hotel. The restaurant is surrounded by exquisite works
director today. The main goal of the theatre is to
of art, while glimpses of the Chao Phraya River in the
provide Thai artists with training and performance
distance provide the perfect setting for what is sure to
experience, whilst theatre workshops are provided
be a truly memorable evening.
to both professionals and students of the Mahidol Universities. In addition, the theatre’s exchange
Under the guidance of the Millennium Hilton hotel’s
programme brings directors and choreographers from
cheese and wine expert, diners are invited to choose
all over the world to train in Thai classical folk dancing.
from a selection of sixty different cheeses. There are cheeses here to suit all tastes, from rich and creamy
The selection includes some of the most expensive and rarest cheeses in the world and diners are given full reign of the Cheese Room during the experience
The Patravadi Theatre has developed widely since
Brie Royale aux Truffles to hard and full-flavoured
its creation. Its blend of traditional Thai decoration
cheeses. The selection includes some of the most
The Millennium Hilton’s Cheese Room is open every
and culture with the addition of contemporary styles
expensive and rarest cheeses in the world and diners
evening from 18:00. In addition to unlimited access
makes it a unique experience. Now, with an extra five
are given full reign of the Cheese Room during the
to the Cheese Room, the hotel offers a special seven
art centres located around Thailand, the Patravadi
experience.
course wine and cheese dinner that consists of seven
Theatre continues to grow, occasionally performing
specially created cheese-based dishes, each served
on behalf of the Thai Government in cities such as
The cheeses are presented alongside a selection of
London, Paris, Milan, Frankfurt and Kuala Lumpur.
fresh fruit as well as freshly baked bread, preserves
with a different glass of wine.
and dried fruit. The hotel’s wine exper t is also on hand to help diners select a wine that will perfectly
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Visit www.patravaditheatre.com to find out about
compliment their favourite cheeses and bring out their
current and upcoming events.
subtle flavours.
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Take a stroll in the heart of Bangkok in the inner Sukhumvit area and you’ll notice various sights and sounds: there’s the American tourist, camera in hand, absorbing Thailand’s rich culture with each snapshot of the magnificent Erawan shrine in the shopping district of Rachaprasong; the Chinese Thai jewellers selling their sparkling, luminous gems at the popular MBK Center; the Indian businessmen selling high-end formal wear in boutiques dotted throughout Asok, Bangkok’s financial district; and, a little further down in the trendy area of Thong Lor, the young, affluent crowd from all over town gather around a plethora of sushi bars and bistros. Rich in diversity, Bangkok is but a microcosm of the melting pot that is the Land of Smiles - a country where skyscrapers rub shoulders with antique temples; a land where East meets West. But where does this diversity and rich cultural heritage come from and how does it affect modern life? Is the globalization of Thailand really a recent phenomenon, or does it have more ancient origins?
Rich in diversity, bangkok is but a microcosm of the melting pot that is the land of smiles - a country where skyscrapers rub shoulders with antique temples; a land where East meets West The internationalization of Thailand started back in the 13th century when ethnic Thai (or ‘Tai’) people migrated from China’s Yangtze valley and
The Land of Smiles:
A Melting Pot of Culture Words by Birat Lekhak
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settled at the banks of the Chao Phraya River. At the time, there were Khmer (who are a majority in present-day Cambodia) and Mon people (minority in present-day Myanmar) based in the area. The ethnic Thais intermarried with the aforementioned groups and established their hegemony as the dominant ethnic group in what is now Thailand. Today they are a sizeable majority and make up around 75% of the population. Naturally, ethnic Thais have made a long-lasting impact on modern Thai culture. The abundance of golden-roofed Buddhist temples across the country and the creation of the Thai alphabet are attributable to them, for both were established and popularized by King Ramkhamhaeng, an ethnic Thai king of Sukhothai, in the late 13th century. The Ramakien, one of Thailand’s most prominent literary and cultural spectacles, was adopted by the ethnic Thai under King Rama I’s reign from the Hindu epic, the Ramayana. Names were modified to suit the Thai vernacular and the Ramakien grew in popularity over the centuries. The play was usually performed for a royal audience in the form of Khon, a genre of Thai dance drama involving silent actors in vibrant masks and costumes accompanied by narrators and musicians. Today, Khon involving Ramakien are popular among tourists and theatre aficionados, making it an icon of Thai culture. If you ever have a chance to go to Bangkok’s famous Temple of the Emerald Buddha, be sure to check out its walls, which are decorated with vivid, ornate murals of 178 scenes from the Ramayana.
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Aside from the ethnic Thai, another key segment of the population is the Thai-Chinese, who make up around 14% of the population and are well-represented in all levels of society. In fact, the founder of the currently ruling Chakri Dynasty, King Rama I, was partly Chinese. It must be noted that the ThaiChinese are relatively more recent arrivals to Thailand than the ethnic Thai and largely did not intermarry with the Mons and Khmers. As such they have different cultural and physical characteristics to the modern-day ethnic Thai. Initial repression meant that the Thai-Chinese lived in close-knit communities and held on to their customs and traditions dearly, some of which have sur vived today. Nonetheless, the Thai-Chinese have been largely successful in Thai society, which is reflected by the fact that 23 of the 25 leading entrepreneurs in Thailand are of Chinese origin. While most modern Thai Chinese have assimilated
Chinese community here is over 200 years old and
under the reign of King Chulalongkorn, that Thailand
has incorporated a significant amount of English
into Thai society and speak mainly Thai, one trip
signs are bilingual throughout the street. The path of
initiated state reform and modernization efforts in
words, especially among teenagers and young adults.
to Yaowarat Road in Bangkok shows that the Thai
the road is said to resemble the curves of the dragon,
order to help preserve the sovereignty of Thailand as
It is common to hear phrases such as “get mai? ”
Chinese community is well and truly alive. The
signifying auspiciousness. Judging by the success of
neighbours fell to colonial powers. During this time,
(Do you get it ?); or “work rue pao? ” (Does it / this
Chinatown of Bangkok, Yaowarat is a sea of red
the Thai-Chinese in Thailand, perhaps they do indeed
a number of American, British, and other European
work?). Globalization has come full circle; just as its
with bright neon signs, intermittently-glowing lanterns,
have the blessings of the dragon.
architect s, engineers, and policy advisors were
forces affected the development of the Thai language
employed as Thailand entered the modern era.
in olden days, it is moulding the Thai language today.
and narrow alleyways with shops selling all kinds of goods ranging from shoes to Chinese snacks. The
The Thai-Chinese have been largely successful in Thai society, which is reflected by the fact that 23 of the 25 leading entrepreneurs in thailand are of Chinese origin
Just a stone’s throw away from Yaowarat is Phahurat, a
For some, the influx of foreign settlers is problematic,
bustling neighbourhood home to the Indian community.
During the Vietnam War in the 60s, 50,000 troops
The Indian influence in Thailand goes back to the 3rd
were stationed in the country. Those who stayed
century when King Asoka sent monks to promote
behind gave rise to the American expatriate commu-
Buddhism in Thailand. The previously mentioned
nity in Bangkok. A number of these troops settled near
adaption of the Ramayana into the Thai cultural epic
bases upcountry and it is common to find former vet-
Ramakien and the incorporation of Sanskrit words into
erans settled in places such as Chiang Mai, Nong Khai,
the Thai vocabulary are notable Indian contributions.
and Udon Thani.
The first Indian settlers to arrive in the modern era
for they claim Thailand’s cultural heritage is being
In addition to the expected influence of its Asian neighbours, Thailand has also had a history of significant Euro-American presence
settled in Phahurat, with speculation suggesting that
Today, Thailand’s recent rise as one of the ‘East Asian
it was due to its similarity with the Hindi name for
Tiger’ economies and its popularity in tourism have
India, Bharat. The aroma of Indian sweets fills the air
brought in a number of foreigners who have decided to
eroded due to foreign influences. Others, however, see
and the area is littered with textile shops. Red, yellow,
settle in the country for work, retirement, or leisure.
it as an opportunity for economic and cultural growth
green, blue; silk, cotton, chiffon, wool – you name it –
Some have invested in local businesses and opened
as the nation adapts to the 21st century. After all,
Phahurat is textile central. The area is also home to
bars and restaurants; some have bought luxury condo-
culture is but a fluid and dynamic concept. The advent
a massive Sikh community and houses a gurudwara
miniums and manage their time between continents;
of the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) brings a
(a Sikh temple) with a magnificent golden roof, a
whilst others have entered the teaching profession
further influx of foreigners who will bring their hopes
landmark of the neighbourhood. Although initially
alongside those who work for multinational companies
and aspirations as well as their cultural traditions. And
based in the Little India that is Phahurat, the Indian
and NGOs. A number of foreigners have married into
they, too – like many before them – shall patch them-
diaspora has scattered throughout the city as well as
Thai families, giving rise to luk krung (half and half
selves into the multicultural mosaic that is Thailand.
the country and have expanded from the textile sector
child). Gaining the best of both gene pools, some luk
to real estate and teaching professions.
krung have gone on to have successful careers in mainstream Thai media as models, actors, singers,
In addition to the expected influence of its Asian neigh-
and TV entertainers.
bours, Thailand has also had a history of significant
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Euro-American presence. The first Westerners to
Though the substantial Chinese and Indian cultures
arrive in Siam were the Portuguese in 1511. They were
remain present in Thailand’s capital and borders, the
followed by the Dutch, English, Danes, and French
burgeoning Western expatriate population continues
in the ensuing centuries coupled with the American
to grow and influence modern-day Thailand, where
arrival in the mid-1820s. All of these nations established
the ship of the Land of Smiles is firmly being led by inter-
trading posts in the country. It was during this era,
national winds. Nowadays, modern Thai vernacular
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Moonshad ow villa
Words by Katy Thomas Images by Anne Sophie Maestracci-Samuipics.com
Winner of Thailand Property Award’s ‘Best Villa Architectural Design’ 2013
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Moonshadow commands Koh Samui from the summit of Chaweng Noi as an island queen, looking out over coral
Perfect for families and entertaining hosts alike, Moonshadow was made for guests to enjoy her ample endowments
coves and endless white sands. The villa’s elegant curves seamlessly wrap the apex of a stunning tropical hillside, infusing sustainability with impeccable luxurious design. Billowed ceilings and walls echo the sails of the yachts circling the coral coves, just meters below. Privy to a 180-degree panorama of sapphire and emerald waters lapping at the feet of the most desired destination on Samui, this award-winning villa (Thailand Property Awards 2013’s ‘Best Villa Architectural Design’) captures the hearts and minds of every passer-by.
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To really immerse in the surroundings, floor to ceiling glass walls can be slid away from the front and rear, allowing the garden and sea to meet your bedroom floor
A cascading waterfall welcomes you to the Moonshadow proper ty, flowing under the walkway to the front door alongside a plethora of Thai flora. Once at the property, a second stunning water feature runs down semicircular stairs to a translucent grand entrance where glass walls, doors and gables allow uninterrupted views through the entertaining areas to the sea. Crescent moon arches of paneled white bamboo capture both sun and moonlight to maximum effect; a luminous space that invites the mind to transcend tranquility. Perfect for families and entertaining hosts alike, Moonshadow was made for guests to enjoy her ample endowments. Glassed mezzanine dining elevates cuisine and conversation, opening into a multi-leveled reception area feeding into private guest wings and lower terraces. An elegant kitchen accentuated with rare white Thai porcelain handmade dinnerware nods to other exquisite hand-crafted art and sculptures that are sewn discreetly into the fabric of the house.
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Moonshadow uses creative minimalism to let every function be a statement of style
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Living blends seamlessly with lounging in the down-
Sunset and sunrise over the ocean are a spectacle
stairs area, where custom couches recline equidistant
to enjoy from anywhere in the villa, with magical
between flat screen and pool. Stunning white terrazzo
views of the moon at night giving this villa its name.
floor and decking are divided by floor to ceiling glass
With 3 guest rooms in an antipodean wing, the master
doors that simply tuck away to leave an uninterrupted
bedroom is an isolated haven. To really immerse in the
vista of the infinity pool, ocean and beyond. Poolside,
surroundings, floor to ceiling glass walls can be slid
sundeck and bedroom balconies alike are adorned with
away from the front and rear, allowing the garden and
polished terrazzo benches, handmade rattan daybeds
sea to meet your bedroom floor. Even the bathroom
and Thai teak sun loungers to capture every possible
offers stunning views, with a generous tub positioned
moment of idyllic bliss.
directly adjacent to the feature glass wall looking out upon the infinite ocean.
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Amidst tropical gardens, waterfall entrances and flawless white terrazzo sundecks, Moonshadow uses creative minimalism to let every function be a statement of style. Capturing the full beam of natural light with raw local materials crafted to perfection by hand, Moonshadow infuses traditional crafts with modern design. To stay at Moonshadow is a refreshing experience offered by the island queen who lets all her guests live royally. For sales and rental enquiries please call +669 3581 3251
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glittering, mirror-glass inlaid, gilded wood carvings
Burma is also a source of the ever-popular richly-carved
as it is for its bronze depictions of the Sakyamuni
colonial style teak furniture, with the larger pieces
Buddha, with both seen in all their glory in major
merging surprisingly well with the modernity of
temples across the land and equally lovely in a home
architect-designed homes. For a practical and elegant
setting.
highlight now found occasionally in Thai antiques stores, a pair of Chinese cinnabar-colored lacquered,
The most iconic treasures from Thailand’s past are its
tapered armoires is well worth searching out, espe-
ancient cast bronze or lacquered wood Buddha images,
cially if you’re visiting the Ban Tawai ‘furniture village’
sought af ter by collectors and home decorators
outside Chiang Mai. These are essentially country
across the world for their gentle, peaceful features
pieces, but glow with their subtle color and polished
and pleasing forms. The oldest and rarest come from
brass fittings.
Northern Thailand’s Hariphunchai culture based in Lamphun around the 13th century, and the Northern
A unique but rare ornament to any wall is an antique,
Thai 14th century Chieng Saen bronze images are
fully-costumed, traditional puppet. Puppetry is an ancient art found all across Asia, with older, larger examples difficult to find but impossible to resist for their character and intricate embroidery. The equally
antiques in the home
intricate rural hill tribe embroideries make great hangings if you can find large enough pieces, and Thailand’s glowing silks bring grace and beauty to any setting via luxurious cushions, bed-coverings and more. It doesn’t take much to combine the old and the new in an elegant display of design and color, as the dramatic impact of Southeast Asian antiques is such that gilding the lily isn’t necessary. A few, well-placed, artefacts bring a
Living history amidst stunning modernity
new dimension to even the best-planned interior.
Words by elena edwards
The st yle of architect-designed vill as
the world. The heart of Thai culture is Buddhism, with
known for their beauty. Thai Buddha images in bronze
in Thailand is now at its iconic peak and
its glittering temples and gilded images, and the country
or gilded wood are often large, perfect as the highlight
makes full use of the country’s glorious
is known for its amazing, traditional woodworking,
of an elegant room. Whether genuine antiques or the
light, lush green settings and stunning
weaving, painting and sculpting skills. Sadly, many
excellent copies still made today, Thailand’s Buddhist
views. Spaciousness, innovative shapes, angles and
fine antiques left the country in earlier times to be
images add an indefinable ambience to your home.
cool, elegant colours are the highlights of creations
sold in the West and many were destroyed during the
such as Koh Samui’s Moonshadow Villa, winner of this
centuries-ago years of war with neighbouring Burma,
For less exalted decoration, the rich black or cinnabar
antiques mall, the largest in the city, is possibly the
year’s Thailand Property of the Year Awards’ ‘Best Villa
but genuine artefacts are still found, celebrating the
red, antique, lacquerwares found here are mainly of
best idea, especially if you’re simply educating your
Design’ category, and our feature property this issue.
country’s centuries of craftsmanship.
Burmese origin, made either as offering dishes, con-
eye as to which artifacts will suit your style in your
To view a wide choice of both antiques and modern, decorative copies, a visit to Bangkok’s River City
tainers or small tables, and make stunning features
new home. Admittedly, it’s difficult to tell whether the
settings and the talent of its new breed of architects,
Decorating your Thai home with atmospheric remnants
in the home. Exquisite, small black lacquer cabinets
piece you’ve fallen in love with is antique or a mod-
ultra-modern homes here are now as spectacular as
of the past brings together traditional and modern
lusciously inlaid with mother-of-pearl designs also
ern copy, but the price may give a guide, as genuine
in any scenic hotspot worldwide.
styles and gives a unique ambience, atmosphere
originate in Burma, as do the exuberant embroidered
heritage pieces are expensive. In the end, the only cri-
and beauty to your environment. Most antique Thai
hangings depicting dragons, elephants and mythical
terion is whether you ‘connect’ with the piece enough
In complete contrast, it’s the fascinating culture and
artworks, whether they’re carved, cast in bronze or
creatures. The majority of wall-hangings nowadays
to place it in your home.
history of Thailand which draws many visitors to
sculpted from marble, almost invariably represent
don’t have great age, but are incredibly successful as
become residents in its rural regions, whether they’re
Buddhist images, and the charming two-dimensional
focal points in a room. If you find one with less flam-
refugees from the traffic and overcrowding of Bangkok,
paintings depict legends and folklore as well as
boyant colors and a less extravagant all-over pattern,
or retirees and business owners from countries all over
religious celebrations. Thailand is as famous for its
it’s a true antique.
Drawing on the natural beauty of Thailand’s island
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...many fine antiques left the country in earlier times to be sold in the West and many were destroyed during the centuries-ago years of war with neighbouring Burma.
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Bangkok’s Nightlife King A look behind-the-scenes at the man behind a plethora of Bangkok’s latest nightlife creations. Words by Adam Kohut
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Ashley Sutton should probably have been
Sutton’s establishments are like movie sets. They
designing spacecraft. That might have been
are surrealism in physical form: like gin-soaked Dali
his real calling. If only he cared enough. “I wish I was
paintings or whiskey-scented Disneylands. Barbie
really passionate about physics and rocket science,”
dolls hang, introverted, from the ceiling in Clouds,
he says. “I used to draw in math class when I was like
like a child’s mobile gone insane – something that
ten. It was the most boring f—ing thing I’ve ever heard.
Sid – the bad kid with braces, a shaved head and the
And I failed it. I always ask myself, ‘Why are you so
skull T-shirt from Toy Story - might have rigged up,
dumb? Why couldn’t you have had the same passion
had he been of drinking age. As unsettling as it may
[for science and math] you have for bending steel
be, Sutton’s style has a dark charm to it, and it’s one
and knowing about building materials?’ If I was really
that leaves you needing a drink.
passionate about that, I would be on the f—n’ moon right now. I know I could build [something like that],
In Mr. Jones’ Orphanage, wooden train tracks snake
I just wish I was that clued up. It would be so exciting.”
throughout the seating area. Above, on the ceiling, hangs an intricate assortment of gears and cogs
And, truth be told, he quite likely would be. When
(also of the wooden variety), the guts of a clock, or
Sutton sets out to accomplish something, it gets done.
the bowels of a gigantism-struck childhood plaything.
He is a man who knows exactly what he’s doing – and
Toys – stuffed bears, plastic army men, you name it
exactly how to do it. The 39-year-old Australian native
– litter the areas that aren’t filled with Wonka-esque
has made a career creating ‘theme’ bars and restau-
varieties of cakes, cookies and brownies topped with
rants in the Bangkok area. Maggie Choo’s in Silom,
fruits, nuts and candies.
for example, has an early 1900s Chinese cabaret motif, with vault doors, dim lights, a cabaret-style
These aren’t your ordinary dine-and-drink establish-
swing in the center of the room, and a piano in the
ments. They are intricately designed and complex,
corner. Alternatively, across town is the Dickensian-
each with an original ambience. They are, quite simply,
styled Iron Fairies, with its iron spiral staircases
art - sculptures that come alive each night as steady
and old-time medicine bottles lining the windows in
crowds filter in and out. “I can see something to the
Bangkok’s trendy Thonglor. Elsewhere, Sutton also
last rivet before it’s built within about twenty minutes,”
had his hand in the creation of Bangkok mainstays
Sutton says. “Then it’s so easy to build the f—n’ thing.
such as Fat R’ Gut’z, Clouds, The Bookshop, and Mr.
I like to build a place and walk in and feel the expe-
Jones’ Orphanage. His latest venture, Bangkok Betty,
rience. I’m so passionate about building. I’m up early
is set to open in the coming weeks on Sukhumvit Soi
every morning because I’m building.” It’s a passion that
22, resembling an assembly line in a bomb factory.
started an early age, with wooden forts, underground
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with the help of a small staff, to sell in his New Yorkbased storefront, where curious passersby began to gawk. “I’d decorated [the workshop] to give my designers inspiration. People used to look in the door and see this workshop and say ‘this is amazing. Do you have any drinks?’ so I’d have to run to 7/11 and get some wine. then they wanted food. In a few months, it was full, and I had to put a little bar in,” sutton says. Thus, Iron fairies – and sutton’s food and beverage career – was born. In person, sutton is calm, collected, and classically handsome, except for the tattoos that nearly cover each arm, which are visible only because his shirt – one part of his three piece suit – has its sleeves rolled up. for a savvy businessman and entrepreneur, it’s also quite difficult to elicit a quote that doesn’t contain at least some form of profanity. Sutton has stuck around the bar scene so long not because of a love of cocktails or alcohol or the high-societal life – he didn’t have his first drink until he was 30, and when it comes to the actual mixology of his establishments, it’s left in the hands of New Yorker Joseph Boroski (“I give him the concept of the restaurant and let him go,” Sutton says) - but because of an industrial pull. It’s magnetic, like a drug, and once you’re hooked, it’s hard to get away. “It’s an addictive business,” Sutton says. “You can make a serious amount of money; it’s very social.” Nonetheless, in Sutton’s eyes, he only has about eight years left before he’s worthless, at least in a business sense. “I think I will lose my passion,” he says. “By the time you’re 50, you’re probably going to get cancer or be f---ed anyway.” It’s not exactly a bright vision of the future, but it’s not bleak in any sense, either – Sutton detests the business side of things. He likes the sense of creating, building, selling, and then moving on. It keeps him busy, fresh. And when all of that’s finished
“I can see something to the last rivet before it’s built within about twenty minutes“
cubbies and tree houses. “I was the master of the tree houses for all my
– or he needs to get away – he always has his boat.
For now, though, Sutton still has time for his career left on the clock.
friends,” he says. But it’s drawing, too, Sutton says, that’s helped him
“It’s my escape; it’s on a remote island in Northwest
At least until the year 2020. Af ter Bangkok Betty opens its doors,
turn his passion into a career – and a fairly lucrative one at that. “After my
Australia,” he says. “I want to sail around the world
Sutton has his sights set on designing a high-end restaurant. Sutton says
ideas happen in my mind, I will draw sketches to fine tune the ideas,”
alone one day.” And that’s what he needs, Sutton
he also has designs for, amongst others, a boutique hotel, an airplane…
he says. “Barbie dolls and bombs are just something to make the concept
says, is to be alone. He doesn’t believe in marriage,
even tentative plans for a submarine. “I’d like to move more in the way
and though he’s currently in a relationship, he lives
of design,” he says. “I want to be able to sleep at night and think that
different and exciting.”
on his own. When he’s alone, he has time to build,
I’ve done something with my life. Right now I’m a f---ing bar owner.
Before he was designing full-time, though, Sutton operated a crane deep
to create. “I don’t think anyone could live with me
What is all the fuss? What a disgrace.”
inside the iron-ore mines in Northwest Australia. It was there he first
anyway,” he says. “That’s one thing I’m really terrible
began to experiment with creating toys and knickknacks out of iron. It was
at, is being with people. I’m the happiest when I’m
there where iron fairies – the tiny fantastical objects from which Sutton’s
alone. That way I don’t piss anybody off. I’m just a
arguably most famous institute took its name – were first constructed.
nightmare to be around.”
Although, truth be told, Sutton doesn’t really know why it was, out of all things, fairies. “I don’t [even] like fairies; I don’t believe in fairies,” he says. After working as a miner, sutton moved to Dalian, China where he began manufacturing various iron trinkets – fairies, mostly - on a larger scale. he then opened a workshop in bangkok, where he created his odds and ends
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stepping forward:
Thailand’s Infrastructure development and economic opportunities
Words by birat lekhak
However, the country faces numerous challenges in
One of the most exciting projects is the construction
infrastructure development which need to be addressed
of four high-speed railway lines: Bangkok to Chiang
if it is to realize its full potential within the AEC. In a
Mai (the country’s northern logistics hub and tourist
report commissioned by the World Bank, it ranks 38th
destination); Bangkok to Nong Kai (which connects to
in the Logistics Performance Index. Similarly, it ranks
Laos and China), Bangkok to Rayong (the country’s
36th in road quality, 57th in railway quality, 43rd in port
eastern seaboard industrial hub and deep-sea port),
quality, and 28th in air transport quality.
and Bangkok to Hua Hin (tourist destination and gateway to the south). The trains can travel to a speed
Given the poor quality of the railway system, most
between 250-400km / hour. A trip from Bangkok to
freights are transported in Thailand by road (86%) as
northern Thailand, which generally takes 12 hours,
compared to countries like Japan where about half
is thus reduced to a mere 4 hours. In addition, people
(54%) is transported by road and the rest by sea and
living in areas within a 300km radius of Bangkok can
rail. This is a relatively inefficient mode of transport
commute to the capital within 90 minutes.
compared to sea or rail transport systems. As such, logistics costs in Thailand are considerably high, at
Having made tremendous strides in the
The ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) is on the
around 15.2% of GDP when other developed countries
“The Land of Smiles is set to make tremendous gains if it can manage to develop into a logistical hub in Southeast Asia”
1990s by rising like other ‘East Asian Tigers’
horizon and is set to be underway by 2015. Among
are in the range of 5-10% of GDP and it has hurt the
who followed export-driven development
other things, the AEC promises the free flow of goods,
country’s competiveness.
models, Thailand has developed manifold in
services, investment, capital, and skilled labor. Tariffs
the last two decades. The percentage of people
on all intra-ASEAN goods as well as non-tariff barriers
living under the national poverty line has decreased
are set to be removed, standardized trade practices
government has recently unveiled a highly ambi-
from 65.26% in 1988 to 13.15% in 2011. From 1980
established region-wide, and liberalized investment
tious, long-term 2.2 trillion baht ($60 billion) plan to
Apart from the development of high speed rail lines,
to 2012, the Thai economy has expanded nearly
policies implemented through the ASEAN Investment
enhance regional connectivity and establish Thai
the existing train system is set to be upgraded with
sixteen-fold, from 913.70 billion baht to 4,898 billion
Agreement (ACIA).
cities as regional hubs before the implementation
the construction of dual train tracks. The expansion
of the AEC. Under the play, 55 infrastructure projects
of the motorway as well as road networks connect-
baht. The country has risen to a ‘newly-industrialized,
To meet these infrastructure challenges, the Thai
middle-income’ status and its remarkable devel-
Thailand is in a geostrategic position because it borders
are set to be completed by 2020, with 64% of the
ing ASEAN economic corridors, sea ports, and border
opment is exemplified by the fact that EuropeAid
four other ASEAN member states including Cambodia,
total budget being spent on 31 railway projects,
trade points have been planned.
now deems Thailand “too prosperous to qualify for
Laos, Malaysia, and Myanmar. Therefore, the Land of
24% on road project s, and 12% on water and air
development donations”.
Smiles is set to make tremendous gains if it can manage
transportation infrastructure.
to develop into a logistical hub in Southeast Asia.
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The benefits that Thailand stands to gain from these
Given the massive developments that have been
infrastructure projects is tremendous. According
planned for implementation by 2020, it would be
to the Fiscal Policy Research Institute Foundation,
wise to invest in real estate in the vicinity of transport
it could increase per capita income to $10,000 per
links. Prices are set to rise as new stations are added
year from the present $5,000 within the next decade.
and, with some foresight, considerable gains could
The shift from road to rail will significantly reduce
be made if one moves early. In Bangkok, a number of
the cost and time for the transportation of goods.
commercial developments have already commenced
Furthermore, better transportation linkages will lead
in the vicinity of new BTS and planned MRT stations.
to the development of new towns and regional hubs in
The government has also planned on investing in new
other parts of Thailand – especially those neighbouring
economic areas in the East-West and North-South
other ASE AN countries. According to Transpor t
Economic corridors. Cities such as Nong Kai near the
Minister Chadchart Sittipunt, “the key goal of the
Lao border offer investment opportunities for people
high-speed train link is to build and to develop new
looking to get a head start before the AEC kicks in.
cities which will benefit the public… the network will
And let’s not forget the tourism industry, which is one
strengthen economic development and products will
of the highest revenue-generating sectors in the Thai
have increased value as people will be able to transport
economy. With the improvement in transportation
their products to the provinces by train.”
networks, it is estimated that domestic and interna-
Given the massive developments that have been planned for implementation by 2020, it would be wise to invest in real estate in the vicinity of transport links.
Demand is set to increase due to the linkages between
tional tourists will increase considerably, especially from the ASEAN countries. Investors in attractive destinations such as Phuket and Koh Samui would be wise to ensure their business ventures are ‘ASEANf r iendly ’, with multilingual s t af f and ser vic es. Furthermore, property prices are expected to surge – those involved in real estate could make considerable gains when the AEC kicks in if they invest now.
The ambitious infrastructure investment undertaken
various revenue-generating zones ranging from
indicates a bright future for Thailand. If all goes to
industrial to agricultural and tourist. In addition, the
plan, there are numerous benefits for all sections
government expects to create 500,000 jobs as well
of societ y, from the minimum-wage labourer to
as increase the level of GDP by about 1% each year.
the millionaire investor. The landscape is set to be
Logistics costs are expected to be reduced by 2% and
transformed by 2020 as Thailand looks to establish
Thailand hopes to save 100 billion baht annually on
itself as an economic and logistical powerhouse in
energy costs.
Southeast Asia and take another stride in development as it did when it rose as an ‘East Asian Tiger’.
Meanwhile, improvement in transportation infrastructure in the capital, where only 4% of people use mass transit and 56% use cars, is making headway. Average speeds during rush hours in Bangkok can reach as low as 16.3km / hour, with inner Bangkok reaching around 12km / hour. As such, an expansion of the subway line has been planned, with the goal of expanding the MRT to 10 lines and from the existing 80km network to 465.8km by 2020.
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Starting a Business in Thailand Words by TOM MATTHEWS
The fundamentals of business may be the same in
There are many types of visa, but thankfully, there is help
every country but the Thai style of working is
available at the Board of Investment of Thailand and other
unique, making it important that foreign business-
government departments which are mentioned below.
people adapt to its culture and customs. However, once you have a clear understanding of how business works in
The Board of Investment of Thailand is an excellent source
the Land of Smiles, you can soon fall in love with the Thai culture
of information and provides a range of investment incentives
whilst watching your business grow from strength to strength.
including tax holidays and assistance with industrial estates in economic zones for factories and export companies. The One
In Thailand, cultural etiquette goes a long way, so practicing local
Start One Stop Investment Center (OSOS) in Bangkok helps
customs and showing respect for the local culture will benefit you
investors with various applications to make sure they understand
and your business in many ways. Relationships are more important
what they need to register a company. The OSOS also helps
in the East than the West, and this is especially true in Thailand.
investors obtain investment promotion privileges, foreign business
Thai people value fun (sanuk), politeness, and a relaxed demeanor.
licenses, environmental impact assessments, permission to use
In business meetings, it always pays to keep the tone light.
land for industrial operations, and utility arrangements. Work Permits and Visas can also be processed within the same building.
As a foreign businessperson, your most important relationship may be with your Thai legal advisors. Such engagements may
To reduce your business risk, you may consider buying a franchise
determine the destiny of your business because laws and
in Thailand and benefit from the franchisor’s established brand
administrative procedures are constantly changing, and vary
and centralized support. However, it is still necessary to conduct
from province to province. Therefore, it is imperative that your
due diligence on your prospective franchisor. If you take the
key advisors have their fingers on the fiscal pulse wherever you
franchise route you would normally still have the same choice
decide to base your work.
of business registration options, including Thai limited company and limited partnership. There is at least one franchise exhibition
Lifestyles vary enormously between the cities. Bangkok boasts
in Bangkok every year.
more Facebook subscribers than any other city in the world, while Pattaya is known as a 24/7 party zone. Phuket, Hua Hin
If you are thinking about starting a small business such as a restau-
and Thailand’s other islands attract high-end investors, whilst
rant with a Thai business partner, you may consider registering
Chiang Mai in the North attracts many tourists and backpackers
a limited partnership. At least one of the partners must accept
due to its relaxed nature.
unlimited liability for the partnership’s debts, but joint unlimited liability is usually permissible.
Think carefully about your role in the business. Do you want to be active in the business, or would you prefer to review your monthly
Finally, there are numerous business networking clubs, profes-
accounts while you sunbathe on the beach? This question
sional associations and chambers of commerce open to expats
may seem obvious, but many investors ask themselves this
across Thailand’s major cities, most of which can be found online.
question after they obtain their work permit. Don’t forget, there are many keen and educated Thais willing to work for you! If you decide to come to Thailand to develop a business concept and build contacts, you may find it worthwhile obtaining a non-immigrant B (business) visa from a Thai Embassy back home.
// Tom Matthews (tmfinancial@consultant.com) is a British financial services representative who loves Thailand.
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How to Avoid Investment Scams in Thailand Words by Elena edwards
For many expats, deserting the sinking ship of their
seeking low-risk are all well-used scams. Promising a quarterly
home country and washing up onto the shores
review of the investment is another, as the salesman, after he’s
of Thailand seems like a passport to par adise,
received his commission, has no intention of ever visiting you
even if you’ve done your online research and noted
again. He’s got what he wanted and it’s time to move on to the
a few cracks in others’ dreams. Your expectations,
next victim unless, of course, you’ve more money to invest.
borne of reading travel guides, expat club newsletters and forums, include a new community with new friends full of helpful
All the above are cause for regulatory action in your home
advice, new cultural experiences and a magically-low cost of
country, but here in Thailand there’s little you can do. Thai
living, all bathed in eternal sunshine. The minefields of everyday
regulators have no interest in claims of misselling made by
life in your home country are just a memory, and you’re safe here.
expats and, even if your IFA informed you he was licensed in his home country, this bears no weight here, leaving you unprotected
Many of the above dreams can come true if you’re careful and
with an expensive civil lawsuit being your only redress. Living
ease gently into your new culture but, due to a disregard for and
in Thailand cuts off any redress through your home country’s
lack of application of laws regulating expats working as financial
regulatory body, and any IFA who claims you are protected
advisors, the safety of your hard-earned nest egg will be at risk
through his home country license is making a fraudulent claim.
unless you watch out for scams and misselling. Of course, this issue doesn’t just apply to expat hubs in Thailand – it’s an ongoing
The vast majority of FAs here are unlicensed by the Thai
scandal across Asia, the Middle East and in European expat havens.
Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC), have no work permits and are working illegally. If you are approached by one, a request
Here, for many years, it has been a practice of commission-hungry
for sight of his work permit, the name of his employer if any and
salesmen to pose as legitimized, qualified financial advisors after
his SEC licensing number should be your first response. Shell
creating themselves a position within the community via expat
companies registered in the Caymans and other offshore havens
clubs and other seemingly trustworthy groups. Their modus
don’t count, however convincing they sound. Of course, if you’re
operandi is straightforward and aimed mainly at new arrivals with
subject to cold calling by any individual or company, putting the
no definite investment plans, and all they’re interested in are the
phone down fast is the only way to go.
inflated commissions they receive by selling certain, often very risky, investments.
If you’re looking to invest through a Thai-based FA or company, you have a very small choice of SEC licensed, reputable set-ups,
A good example is the now notorious ‘LM Property Bond’, sold
most of which are asset managers and require substantial sums.
to expats as the best investment ever all over Thailand until
One such is Aberdeen Asset Management, fully regulated by
just days before the administrators were called in, carrying a
the Thai Ministry of Finance and SEC licensed and authorised.
commission rate of up to 15 per cent. Favourite ploys include not
Newly launched SKFM, in association with Siam Knight, is a
mentioning that the salesman will receive a commission, either
partnership of three advisors committed to a policy of fair
by not explaining charges in a transparent way or ignoring the
dealing, whatever the amount invested. Whilst investing wisely
subject entirely if selling to complete financial novices. Triple
in Thailand can undoubtedly reap big rewards, taking care
charges, management fees and trading fees can decimate an
financially is the only way to see your dream come into fruition
investment even if it’s marginally profitable. ‘Forgetting’ to explain that the investor is locked into the investment for a number of years unless a high penalty is paid at withdrawal, promising the same annual return as, say, a bank deposit account, and selling a high-risk investment to those
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Samui Real Immobilier Villa with spa
Thai house
Tong Krut, Samui Internal area: 2100 sqm Land: 6400 sqm 6 bed, 6 bath Seaview Infinity pool 25 x 8 m with 3 seats jacuzzi, sala thai integrated bar. Staff quarters: 5 bedrooms
BOPHUT,Samui Sea view Surf . area: 814 m² Surf . plot: 6222 m² Number of rooms: 5 Number of bathrooms: 5 Private pool
(currently 10 employees live locally)
Price: 135 000 000 THB
Price: 280 000 000 THB
Covered parking area with four parking spaces.
Modern villa
beach villa
chaweng noi, Samui Internal area: 570 m2 External area : 470 Swiming pool 64 m2 Land : 804 m2 4 bed 4 bath Seaview
Choeng mon, Samui Internal area: 200 sqm Land: 450 sqm 3 bed,3 bath private pool
Price: 58 000 000 THB
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www.samuirealimmobilier.com
Price: 25 000 000 THB
+66(0)935813251
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Karl’s Villa
Lamai Hill
Chaweng, samui
Lamai, Samui
• Karl’s villa
• External Area 240 m2
• Villas from 3 - 5 bedrooms/
• Seaview
• 4 bedrooms
• Swimming pool 60m2
bathrooms
• 5 min from the beach
• seaview
• Villa Already in construction
• Starting at 11.400.000 thb per villa
• Villas already in Construction
• Internal Area 289 m2
• 41,900,000 thb
website: www.stk-immo.com
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Phone: +66 (0)91 835 0684
079
Nakara
The Wave Pool Villa
Chaweng, samui
Samui
• Private or shared swimming pool
• Seaview • Appartments from 1 to 3 bedrooms • Starting from 8,800.000 thb
depending of the units
• Starting at 11.0000.0000 thb
• Construction in progress
website: www.stk-immo.com
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• Seaview Villas 3 to 5 bedrooms
Phone: +66 (0)91 835 0684
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High Moonrise
chaweng noi, samui
• 5 Bedrooms with bath
• Can be built anywhere on samui
• 5 bedrooms, 5 bathrooms
• External Area: 350 m2
• Internal Area: 858 m2
• Sustainable Construction
• 39.000.000 thb
• seaview
• Extenal Area: 559 m2
• Differed Payment
• Internal Area: 350 m2
• Swimming Pool: 120 m2
• Construction Cost: 45,000,000 THB
website: www.stk-immo.com
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Maeva Villa
Phone: +66 (0)91 835 0684
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dreamland samui
+66 (0) 935813251
VILLA papaya
Bedroom: 3
Lot size: 275 m²
Bathroom: 3
Land size: 698 m²
Bophut Samui
Price: Thai Baht 14.900.000
Bophut Samui
Bedroom: 3
Private pool
Bathroom: 3
Price: Thai Baht 14.350.000
VILLA Tamarine
FLASH SALE: 12.900.000 THB
Lot size: 250 m² Land size: 1000 m²
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085
dreamland samui
+66 (0) 935813251
VILLA nirvana
086
Bedroom: 5
Seaview
Bathroom: 4
Price: Thai Baht 37.500.000
Bophut Samui
FLASH SALE: 33.750.000 THB
Bophut Samui
Bedroom: 3
Private pool of 35 m²
Bathroom: 2
Price: Thai Baht 11.800.000
Lot size: 550 m²
Lot size: 220 m²
Land size: 2350 m²
Land size: 900 m²
VILLA mango
FLASH SALE: 10.590.000 THB
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