FOOD

TOMATO CEVICHE — local heirloom tomatoes in a yuzu and sudachi ponzu sauce, pickled strawberries, cucumber, red onion, herbs.

NOVEL A New Narrative in the Crossroads.

Emily Lane: Have you ever heard someone say, “change your location, change yourself”? This adage has bits of truth, but only in the best way possible, when discussing Novel, the new American restaurant that is the brainchild of chef Ryan Brazeal. After having been housed in the old Lill’s on 17th space on the Westside for the past five years, Brazeal and his crew relocated Novel to a new, contemporary space in the East Crossroads this past spring. We couldn’t wait to check out the new feel for a place, which not only has become beloved in Kansas City, but that is nationally recognized and lauded.

Stewart Lane: We arrived on a warm summer night that required a refreshing beverage, and the mixologists at Novel have curated an incredible menu of re-invented cocktails and house creations. I had the Queen Bee, comprised of Rieger Gin, mead,

PORK TOAST— braised pork belly, shoulder and ham breaded and fried, avocado, smoked tomato hoisin sauce, red onion and cilantro.

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AGNOLOTTI - braised duck neck and foie gras, port wine syrup, pickled cherries, herbed bread crumbs.

dandelion juniper cordial, and lemon. Light, refreshing with a touch of sweetness and herbal backdrop, it was a perfect segway to our meal. We started with the tomato ceviche, which is accompanied by pickled strawberries, cucumbers, and red onions, and finished with a yuzu and ponzu sauce. Each bite was a taste of summer and a nod to the chef’s seasonality of his menus. Next was the pork toast, a substantial dish of shredded ham, pork belly, and shoulder, all deep fried and served with rich avocado and a sharp smoked-tomato hoisin sauce. Each bite was crispy and soft, rich yet acidic, hearty yet herbal. The balance of bold and subtle flavors leaves you thoroughly satiated after your plate is clear.

EL: While we opted to sit in the dining room, you could easily make a night of sitting at the new 18-seat bar, which is located at the front of the restaurant. Stewart and I were fortunate enough to be seated near the open kitchen, complete with a chef’s counter, so we could observe the flurry of the behind-the-scenes activity. Going from the tiny house on 17th Street to the 3,300-square-foot restaurant that feels more like a contemporary art gallery allows for a greater sense of community as you dine. I suspect it would also work well for larger dinners or events.

SL: New to the Novel menu are house-crafted pastas, which show another layer of chef Brazeal’s skill. Tender Agnolotti pasta filled with rich, braised duck necks and foie gras served with a port wine syrup, tart pickled cherries, and herbed breadcrumbs was a huge hit with us (and we’re told, everyone who tries it). We were impressed by the texture of the crisp breadcrumbs along with the delicate pasta and rich filling, accentuated by the acidic, yet sweet, pickled cherries and port syrup. This was a perfect way to move into our main course: halibut, pan-seared to a golden crust, topped with a cucumber-based tartar sauce with celery, capers, and briny trout roe. Chef Brazeal took extra care to ensure his vegetable sides stood on their own on this impressive menu; so we enjoyed several of those, as well. Fried cauliflower dressed with walnut vinaigrette and smoked raisins twisted the traditional flavors of a cauliflower salad into a unique experience. The seasonal wild mushrooms sautéed with ginger and green onions were expertly caramelized to enhance their flavor while still being plump and delicate. I was so enamored with a particular side, the creamed spinach with celery root puree, that we had to order a sample. Of course, longtime fans of Novel will be happy to know the famous Duroc pork chop is still on the menu, and it is as satisfying as ever.

KEY LIME CHIFFON PIE — passionfruit caramel, coconut.

EL: One of the best assets to chef Brazeal’s restaurant is his pastry chef (and lovely wife), Jessica Armstrong. She made a name for herself in Kansas City as the pastry chef at Bluestem, and she has incredible skill when it comes to creative and satiating desserts. Although I could have ordered one of each item offered on the dessert menu, the warm evening called for a cool dessert – the Key lime chiffon pie. I devoured every bite in record time. It was light, citrusy, with a perfect crust and just the right amount of sweetness. And it was enjoyable to watch her artfully prepare the dessert at the chef’s counter as we waited.

Needless to say, Novel, has established itself on the Kansas City culinary landscape, and this relocation has given it all the tools to continue growing and bringing new, inventive classics to our community.

Novel is located at 1927 McGee, Kansas City, Missouri 64108, and is open Tuesday–Saturday starting at 5:00 p.m. Reservations are strongly recommended. Emily and Stewart Lane are natives to Kansas City. Stewart is the research and development chef for Lon Lane’s Inspired Occasions catering. Emily’s career has been designing marketing and events for various arts and sports organizations. Together, their lives are surrounded by food, culture, and friends. The incredible accompanying food photos by Anna Petrow are both indulging and captivating works of art. Anna is a freelance photographer whose work has been seen in The New York Times.

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