There’s No Place Like Noka.

Emily Lane: In most cities, there is an ongoing effort to create something new in the food scene. Sushi burritos! Molecular gastronomy! Cronuts! Noka is no exception, but in the most sincere way. If you’re looking for an intimate date night, look elsewhere. But if an expertly curated, highly aesthetic communal dining experience appeals to you, Noka is it. Even from the street, you can tell Noka is something different than your normal dining experience. The stonegray painted exterior and heavy-dark wood doors welcome you into a space unlike any other in Kansas City. Stewart and I were eager to see what all the buzz was about.

We were seated at one of three large communal tables in the center of the restaurant. The only other seating option is bar seating, so be prepared to rub elbows with a stranger. The heavy, concrete tables, set with neutral colors, clay jars, and unique plants leaned into the Japanese farmhouse theme the restaurant identifies as. The design is as distinct as the menu.

Stewart Lane: After getting settled, I started the experience with a Gin #1, a light and crisp cocktail of yuzu, salted honey syrup, lemon, and sparkling wine. The viscosity was perfect and the hint of salt in the honey created a warmth on the tongue while the cocktail was, itself, cool and refreshing.

The menu, like the dining experience, is meant to be shared. The opening bounty from Chef Amanté Domingo is both a feast for the eyes and tongues. Each dish was an invigorating production, bursting with life, color, and textures. The Hamachi sashimi with a popcorn crust, shiso oil, and roe was accented with the thinnest of shoestring crisp potatoes, sliced jalapenos, shaved red onions, and fennel fronds that was a visual trick of the mind. Served on a gray stone, the thin slices of delicate fish lay on a bed of crumbled popcorn reminiscent of powdery snow. The bright colors and contrasts of the herbs, the plate, and the popcorn created a beautiful and fun introduction to our meal. We also could not pass up the house-famous octopus tostada, combining crispy tiny octopi and slices of tender tentacles on locally made tortillas with wood fire-roasted vegetables, a smoky yam puree, fresh arugula, and dressed with a jalapeno vinaigrette. Black squid-ink crackers, resembling a wild coral reef, finished the presentation and provided a crisp taste of the sea adding a dynamic flourish to the dish.

EL: As his first solo concept, Chef Amanté wanted to pay homage to his father, a farmer who raised organic produce and ran a small restaurant in St. Joseph, Missouri. He even used many parts of the 150-year-old family barn in the construction and design. Massive earthenware pots line the main walls, creating the feel of being in a natural history museum. You can also dine at the 10-seat chef’s table, which overlooks the culinary team as they dance between searing binchotan charcoal grills, roaring sauté stations, and plating lines. While some diners may prefer to stick to the company they came with, we reached out and chatted with tablemates as we watched plates being delivered all around us.

SL: Scallops are jewels of the sea and at Noka they present them in a fanciful interpretation of nature. Juicy jumbo scallops were seared and served on a smoky root puree and topped with umami rich blackgarlic and spicy microgreens. The puree was a vivacious and rich orange, mimicking the natural scallop roe, while bringing a complexity of sweet and savory to the delicate scallops. The miso-glazed black cod showcased the culinary skills of Noka’s kitchen team.

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?tab=rm&ogbl#inbox/FMfcgzGsnBgXWMbXpdfcLVTDfclZgfdF?projector=1&messagePartId=0.1 can be very difficult to work with, but in the right hands, incredible flavors can be created. The Blu Hwy chefs did not disappoint. Crispy outside skin with tender, juicy meat laid on a bed of mashed English peas, crunchy sweet hazelnuts, spicy Fresno chilies, and a simple lemon vinaigrette were crafted with knowledgeable hands. The English peas were the perfect textural and flavor complement to the bold octopus, chilies, and tart vinaigrette.

Perfectly cooked cod with a rich glaze of miso and black garlic paired with a bright and tangy shaved radish and cucumber salad. As a play to the yakitori style of cooking, a skewer of crispy sticky rice added a fun and unique texture to the plate as a foil for the delicate fish.

The sides were far from afterthoughts and showed Chef Amanté’s expertise in crafting and enhancing subtle flavors. The wok-fried local wild mushrooms in a fermented black-bean sauce were as savory as any meat dish. Deep rich flavors with a touch of smoke and char were accentuated with the savory glaze. Wood-fire-grilled asparagus on a sweet and vibrant green nettle puree and topped with puffed rice noodles created a beautiful expression of spring in vibrant colors and flavors. The smoked beets were a highlight for me, incredibly tender and sweet with a kiss of smoke, paired with an herbed goat cheese spread and pickled mustard seeds, creating a complex and engaging dish. A sheet of crispy rice paper added whimsy and crunch, making every forkful dynamic and exciting.

EL: Much like my daughters, I cannot say no to ice cream. The team partnered with High Hopes Ice Cream, on 55th and Troost, to create one of the best flavors I’ve ever enjoyed. The Cream & Corn ice cream was smooth and rich, with dark flavors of caramel corn and toasted rice and sassafras. The dish was nostalgic and comforting, while being new and exciting all at the same time. Don’t miss it to conclude your meal.

EL: So whatever plans your summer holds, we hope you add a visit to Blu Hwy to your list, and take a journey through their menu without leaving the city limits.

When it comes to the Noka experience, come prepared to ask questions, share space with others, and take in a meal that you’ve certainly never had before. It’s great to see new concepts not only surviving but thriving our beloved city. If your summer doesn’t include travel plans, visits to local restaurants like Noka will give you feeling of a mini-escape, even if just for a few hours.

Blu Hwy, located in the South Plaza area at 5070 Main Street in Kansas City, is open Monday through Friday for lunch, happy hour, and dinner, and Saturday and Sunday for brunch, happy hour, and dinner. More information and reservations can be found at BluHwy.com.

Noka, located at 334 E 31st Street in Kansas City, Missouri, is open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday.

Reservations are highly recommended, and can be made at nokakc.com

About The Authors

Emily and Stewart Lane are Kansas City natives who have an affection for hospitality. Stewart, a former executive chef, makes his career in business development and loves to cook for friends and family, and Emily is a communications strategist with an arts background. Along with their daughters, Evie and Catharine, they live a life filled with food, culture, and creativity.

About The Authors

Emily and Stewart Lane are Kansas City natives who have an affection for hospitality. Stewart, a former executive chef, makes his career with SMG and loves to cook for friends and family, and Emily is a marketing communications manager with an arts background. Along with their daughters, Evie and Catharine, they live a life filled with food, culture, and creativity.