4 minute read

Mediterranean Comfort in the City Market.

Emily Lane: There is nothing quite like spring in Kansas City. The farmers’ markets are bustling with new life from their long winter hiatus, patio umbrellas bloom open, and warm air scented with flowers and grasses permeate neighborhoods. It’s a time for growth and new adventures, and that is what Enzo Bistro & Wine Bar is all about.

Stewart Lane: Situated next to the gates of City Market is the newest creation of Laura and Grant Norris. Enzo is sleeker and more contemporary in its design than Ragazza, her sister restaurant, but the feelings of hospitality and neighborhood charm are unchanged. From hostess to server and bartenders, we felt like old friends who have stopped by their house for dinner. I even saw the bar lead, Missy Koonce, pass her eyeglasses off to a patron that needed a little reading help.

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EL: The French Restoration cocktail features a blend of Tom’s Town bourbon, Cointreau, and brandy with a torched orange. It’s light, refreshing, and accompanied by plenty of bar options for whatever beverage suits your desires. We sat and chatted with Laura at the bar and heard more about the genesis of Enzo. It was her pandemic project and how she kept her staff working. They built out the kitchen, the décor, and fully prepped the space while Ragazza was closed. It’s deeply personal, and you can feel it.

SL: Greek and Mediterranean influences guide the menu at Enzo, and, so, we had to start with the Greek salad. Large oblique cuts of hot-house cucumber with torn chunks of salty feta mixed with kalamata olives, grape tomatoes, and thinly shaved red onion dressed with herbs, lemon, and olive oil made for a beautiful presentation and vibrant flavors. I loved the large cuts of cucumber; each bite had a bright and refreshing crunch with the perfect amount of dressing. Mixing with the salty feta and olives, sharp red onion, and sweet tomatoes, this dish should not be missed. We followed with the Arancini: risotto balls stuffed with a pork and beef ragu with creamy mozzarella and red sauce, then deep fried. To say these are popular would be an understatement. I think every table we saw had an order of these, and they routinely sell out before service has ended. Crispy, creamy, and hearty, there is no better snack to pair with a glass of wine or beer.

EL: Cioppino, with its roots in Northern Italy and made famous in San Francisco, shines brightly in Kansas City at Enzo: a rich and spicy tomato broth, emboldened with white wine, onions, and fennel, and finished with a menagerie of seafood including jumbo shrimp, clams, mussels, calamari, and flaky cod. This fisherman’s stew is served with grilled house-made ciabatta for dipping, which we couldn’t get enough of. I always love reminders of the amazing seafood dishes you can find right here in the Midwest, and this cioppino tops the list.

SL: Simplicity done well was exemplified in our next dish, the herb-roasted chicken over goat cheese and kale risotto with a dark and succulent pan jus. There is nothing more satisfying, or more difficult to execute in a restaurant setting, than a perfectly cooked, tender and juicy roast chicken. The chicken was succulent, and the risotto was creamy with knobs of tangy goat cheese and tender kale surrounded by a dark and unctuous pan sauce. I will be coming back for this one.

EL: According to Enzo (and our four-year-old daughter) donuts aren’t just for breakfast! Here, they are the perfect way to end a night out. The fluffy, powdered-sugar-dusted donuts are served on a pool of house-made tart and sweet lemon curd, and we devoured every bite. With its welcoming atmosphere, top-notch staff, and satiating menu, we know you’ll find so much to love about Enzo Bistro & Wine Bar.

Enzo Bistro & Wine Bar is located at the corner of 5th and Walnut at the Gates of City Market in Kansas City. Open Tuesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Reservations are recommended. More information can be found at enzokcmo.com.

SL: The Spanish Octopus was a must try for me. Octopus can be very difficult to work with, but in the right hands, incredible flavors can be created. The Blu Hwy chefs did not disappoint. Crispy outside skin with tender, juicy meat laid on a bed of mashed English peas, crunchy sweet hazelnuts, spicy Fresno chilies, and a simple lemon vinaigrette were crafted with knowledgeable hands. The English peas were the perfect textural and flavor complement to the bold octopus, chilies, and tart vinaigrette.

EL: So whatever plans your summer holds, we hope you add a visit to Blu Hwy to your list, and take a journey through their menu without leaving the city limits.

Blu Hwy, located in the South Plaza area at 5070 Main Street in Kansas City, is open Monday through Friday for lunch, happy hour, and dinner, and Saturday and Sunday for brunch, happy hour, and dinner. More information and reservations can be found at BluHwy.com.

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

Emily and Stewart Lane are Kansas City natives who have an affection for hospitality. Stewart, a former executive chef, makes his career in business development and loves to cook for friends and family; Emily is a communications strategist with an arts background. Along with their daughters, Evie and Catharine, they live a life filled with food, culture, and creativity.

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

Emily and Stewart Lane are Kansas City natives who have an affection for hospitality. Stewart, a former executive chef, makes his career with SMG and loves to cook for friends and family, and Emily is a marketing communications manager with an arts background. Along with their daughters, Evie and Catharine, they live a life filled with food, culture, and creativity.

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