the peninsula. At some, including Danco Island and Neko Harbour, we hike up the ice for panoramic views across the glistening continent. At others, such as Jougla Point, we get to admire the blubbery masses of Weddell, crab-eater and elephant seals. Everywhere we go, thousands of penguins and their chicks are there to meet us. A stop at an Antarctic military station, the Chilean Gonzalez Videla base, is an unexpected highlight. Having not had visitors for a couple of months, the 13 residents are over the moon to welcome us, plus our largely Chilean crew, who hit the shore waving their flags and singing the national anthem. Soon enough, they’re handing out the Pisco sours and showing us around. Still, best of all are our trips on the water, zooming between the icebergs aboard the Zodiacs. At Neko, we chance across a group of dozing humpback whales, bobbing sleepily
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We gape in awe at the kaleidoscope of blues
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on the surface, one using its giant pectoral fin to maintain its balance as it drifts so close we could practically touch it. At the Melchior Islands we head out with blue skies all around us, but this time it’s the ice that is the star. As the sun glistens through the bergs and onto the pure Antarctic waters, we gape in awe at the kaleidoscope of blues, hardpushed to think of a more beautiful sight. It’s often said that while the wildlife brings people to the Antarctic, it’s the ice that brings them back, and now I understand. Which is why later, pulling myself from my sub-zero Antarctic bath and preparing for the journey back to South America, I’m ready to pay whatever price the Drake demands. ❚ Beds on board the MV Ushuaia’s 10-day Classic Antarctica Expedition start at £3150. Book direct with the ship at antarpply.com For more information, see specialist tour operator Polar Cruises polarcruises.com
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