WAGUIDE
WORD FROM THE STREET
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whales and their calves (for more information contact Nullarbor Traveller, Ph: +61 8 8687 0455, the-traveller.com.au). About 550km north-east of Perth are the Kalgoorlie, Boulder and Coolgardie goldfields. Imposing public buildings in “Kal” – on the broad tree-lined streets – are a testament to the short-lived goldrush of the 1890s. Today, mining is limited but the area has a busy tourist trade. Some 150km south of the Perth-Kalgoorlie Hwy is the spectacular vision of Wave Rock in Hyden. This 15m high rock formation, striped with coloured bands, is in the shape of the surfer’s ultimate wave. Nearby are other curious natural formations such as Hippo’s Yawn, some ancient Aboriginal rock paintings and a wildlife sanctuary.
South coast
Tom Shadwell, UK FAVOURITE WA DAY SPOT? “The Ningaloo Reef. I swam with whale sharks off Exmouth, dived with manta rays off Coral Bay and snorkelled with reef fish off the Cape Ranges.“ AND NIGHT SPOT? “Viet Hoa restaurant in Northbridge, Perth. The best tasting pork wonton noodle soup ever! And it’s affordable.” ANYWHERE STILL ON THE WISHLIST? “Penguin Island off Rockingham, because fairy penguins are awful cute.”
The east North-east of Perth are the goldfield towns of Kalgoorlie-Boulder and Coolgardie, an interesting stop-off on the gruelling drive across the outback to Alice Springs, a trip that should only be undertaken by the most prepared adventurers. Despite its remote location, Esperance is one to mark on your route. It’s a lively, fast-growing resort town, set amid rolling green hills and farmland, offering great fishing, white sandy beaches and stunning coastal scenery. If you have your own wheels, make The Great Ocean Drive. The Nullarbor Plain links the west coast with the return of civilisation in Adelaide with a roadtrip that at 3,900km is just 80km shy of London to Moscow and boasts the longest completely straight stretch of road in the world at 178km long. It is also the world’s largest single piece of rock. Like a honeycomb underneath, it is also the longest underwater cave system, which attracts divers from across the globe. You’ll see soaring cliffs, remote beaches, caves, seal colonies and from June to October, southern right 62
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WA’s south-west is dotted with giant trees, lush hills, world-famous vineyards and gorgeous surf beaches. It’s said this is some of the oldest land in the world. From the second largest town in WA, Bunbury, to Margaret River, renowned for both its surfing and wine (not recommended together however) to the chilled-out Denmark and all the national parks, the south coast is definitely worth the venture. Bunbury is a coastal city easily accessible from Perth. Set in a rich, green farming region, the town’s main attraction is the Dolphin Discovery Centre at Koombana Beach. The friendly mammals swim right up to the beach. An equally beautiful south-western destination is Margaret River – an alternative lifestyle town, and favourite with surfers, sailboarders and wine buffs. It’s an excellent location, with easy access to picturesque forests. Ensure you taste the produce of this acclaimed wine-producing region. Margaret River is bang in the middle of Capes Naturaliste and Leeuwin, the latter being the place where the Southern and Indian Oceans meet. Pop into one of the show caves that dot the cape region – you’ll never look at a stalactite the same way again. Over 200km south-east from Margaret River is WA’s first European settlement, Albany, overlooking some of Australia’s most spectacular coastal scenery, where it’s possible to snorkel with seals. Nearby Torndirrup National Park, the Stirling Ranges and Porongurups (said to be the oldest hills in the world) offer excellent bushwalking, mountain scenery and also camping areas if you want to stay overnight. Close to Albany is happy, hippie-influenced Denmark, a back-to-the-land, arts-and-craft town, with a flourishing reputation for good wine. William Bay National Park has some brilliant coastal views.