November 5-11 2012 Issue 706 tntdownunder.com
IN W T EE BUNCH
A SW IAN OF TASMAN TR AVEL S EXPERIENCE
FEAST OF THE EAST Road tripping in Bosnia
HOUSE THAT BEER BUILT Sinking a few on XXXX Island
E R I F Y M T H LIG
aby! t Tasmania, b u o b a e v lo e gs w of all the thin n o ti ra b le e c g month lon We kick off a + NEWS & SPORT WHAT’S ON FILM REVIEWS TRAVELLERS’ TIPS
Oz Fly to Cairns then enjoy guided travel down the East Coast with Oz Experience and top it off with some awesome adventure activities! Brisbane to Cairns *nDMVdes 0ne XBZ ĂšiHIt CetXeen #risCBne Bnd CBirns one XBZ onMZ
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Visit www.ozexperience.com for bookings. Terms & Conditions Â? TIe ĂšiHIt is not BVtomBtiDBMMZ CooLed XIen tIe QBDLBHe is CooLed Â? CVstomers .64T DBMM (" TrBWeM on Bt MeBst dBZs Qrior to trBWeM to DonĂ™rm tIeir seBt Â? TIe ĂšiHIt inDMVded is Gor one XBZ trBWeM to CBirns onMZ Â? 'MiHIts Bre sVCKeDt to BWBiMBCiMitZ *G tIe GBre tZQe QVrDIBsed in tIe QBDLBHe is not BWBiMBCMe Gor tIe QreGerred trBWeM dBte BnotIer dBte XiMM need to Ce DIosen Â? 0nDe tIe ĂšiHIt is DonĂ™rmed tIe CooLinH is VnDIBnHeBCMe Bnd nonreGVndBCMe Â? TrBWeM *nsVrBnDe is stronHMZ reDommended Â? 1MeBse note tIBt DBrrZ on CBHHBHe is inDMVded in tIe ĂšiHIt DomQonent oG tIe triQ IoXeWer DIeDLed in CBHHBHe is not inDMVded
ALEX HARMON EDITOR email@example.com
EDITOR’S LETTER Some of you neglect the little state of Tasmania, but we’re here to tell you that’s a big mistake. We’re so passionate about the Emerald Isle we are dedicating a whole month to exploring it. If you’re not convinced by December, then I’m afraid we’ve got problems. We also spend some time on the island that beer built (pg26) and chat to a travel writer who is living the Eat Pray Love dream (pg20). Happy travels!
THIS WEEK OZ DIARY
LISTINGS NEW ZEALAND
FEATURES GO SOUTH
We kick off Tassie month with a top 10 list of great things to do down south
FROM THE CRADLE
We check out beautiful Launceston and take a trip around Cradle Mountain
Whoever decided that a beer company should run an island is a genius
Checking out Bosnia’s white water rafting, war monuments and capital city
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EDITORIAL Editor Alex Harmon Staff writer Hugh Radojev Contributors Clare Vooght Interns James Beasenvalle, Amelia Gray, Caitlin Stanway
DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Design and production manager Lisa Ferron SALES Account manager Justin Steinlauf Sales Executive Mike Ramsden MARKETING & EVENTS Business development manager Tom Wheeler DISTRIBUTION Lee Sutherland ACCOUNTS Financial controller Trish Bailey Accountant Hannah Waters
TNT MULTIMEDIA LTD CEO Kevin Ellis Chairman Ken Hurst PUBLISHER TNT Multimedia Limited PRINTED BY Rural Press NEWS AAP PICTURES Getty Images | Thinkstock | AAP | TNT Images | Tourism Australia | Tourism Victoria | Tourism New South Wales | Tourism NT | Tourism Queensland | Tourism Tasmania | South Australia Tourism | Tourism Western Australia | Tourism New Zealand | Tourism Fiji | COVER Tourism Tasmania TNT Magazine , 126 Abercrombie Street, Chippendale, Sydney, NSW 2008 tntdownunder.com General enquiries Phone 02 8332 7500 Fax 02 9690 1314 Email firstname.lastname@example.org SALES ENQUIRIES
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NORTHERN TERRITORY AND QUEENSLAND Few people who have witnessed a total eclipse of the sun have managed to come away from the experience without being moved by it. One of nature’s most awe inspiring sights is scheduled to take place in the far north of Australia, with the eclipses’ shadow path set to pass overheard Cairns in far north Queensland. If you really want to celebrate this momentous astral event in style, though, you can always head to the Eclipse Festival where a host of bands and DJs will make the experience all the more special. Nov 14. Cairns, North Queensland
HARVEST FESTIVAL 2012
Summer in on its way and one of Sydney’s trendiest suburbs is putting on its own festival. There will be a bunch of live bands, markets and even a writer’s booth to keep everyone entertained. Bring your refillable water bottle though, or you’ll go thirsty
This year’s festival of contemporary art and Indian culture kicks off with a Bollywood themed block party. Legendary figure Kamahl will be the MC while a whole host of some of the finest Indian musicians and dancers in Australia will be taking part.
The Harvest music festival brings top acts like Grizzly Bear, Santigold, Beck and Sigur Ros to Victoria. Summer is in the air and nothing says summer quite like a music festival – and Harvest is one of the first of the new season. And what a line up.
Nov 11 Camperdown Park, Newtown newtowncentre.com
Nov 8 Parramatta, Sydney parramasala.com
Nov 10 Werribee Park, Vic harvestfestival.com.au
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Head to the
%#,)03% 3% &%34)6!,
s #AMPERS FROM PER DAY !53 s #AMPERS FROM PER DAY .:
Now till 10 November
Sydney to Cairns 6-8 days with $450 towards fuel Brisbane to Cairns 4-6 days with $300 towards fuel Adelaide to Cairns 7-10 days with $450 towards fuel Melbourne to Cairns 7-10 days with $450 towards fuel Alice Springs to Cairns 5-7 days with $450 towards fuel Darwin to Cairns 6-9 days with $450 towards fuel
25/10/12 8:54 AM
Simply put: Tassie rocks!
A devilishly good state Australia’s very own emerald isle encapsulates the finer things in life: great food, wine and friendly people – and in a pristine package too WORDS HUGH RADOJEV
Tasmania is, simply speaking, completely unlike anywhere else in Australia. The cities and towns, the landscapes, the climate and even the people are unique to this little green island floating in the frigid waters of the deep south. Tasmania’s grim convict past, with all of its bloody tales of death, cannibalism and horror are reason enough for history buffs to visit, whilst the brilliant local food and wine to be found in the unique regions hold their own distinct pleasures. Tasmania’s mild, year-round climate and rich soils have yielded wonderful and world renowned vintages, particularly sparkling wines and pinot noir, whilst its pristine rivers and big yields of natural grain and apples have seen some of Australia’s best beers and 6
ciders brewed in the state. Perhaps Tasmania’s biggest tourist draw card, though, focuses on the state’s breathtaking natural beauty – around a third of the state is made up of protected national parks – and has become something of a hallowed area for bushwalkers and naturalists in equal measure. From the sweeping, weeklong adventure afforded by hiking the Overland Track, to walks around the beautiful Freycinet National Park and the Bay of Fires, the state’s amazing abundance of natural beauty rivals that of stunning New Zealand. Once considered somewhat isolated (and backwards) by mainland Australians, Tasmania has pushed itself to the forefront of Australia’s artistic and cultural landscape. The Museum
of New and Old Art (MONA) in Hobart rivals anything to be found on the mainland, or even in the world, with contemporary and classic artworks, sculpture and installations to dazzle the eye and reward the soul. In fact, the city of Hobart recently caught the attention of the world with Lonely Planet rating Hobart as one of the top 10 cities in the world to visit in 2013 – the only Aussie city to make the grade. Something Tasmanians have been saying for years. Speaking of top 10’s, we’ve picked out our 10 favourite things to do in Tasmania. This might not be a definitive list but it’s a start, a beginning to try and surmise this wonderful and beautiful state which you simply have ›› to experience for yourself.
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MUSEUM OF OLD AND NEW ART (MONA)
Since first opening its doors in 2011, this huge gallery conceived as the brainchild of an eccentric millionaire has become Tasmania’s single largest tourist attraction. MONA, described as a “subversive adult’s Disneyland” is a three level monolith hewn into the living rock around the Berriedale peninsula, and is almost a work of art in itself. Inside, the art is predominantly showcased underground, where ancient antiquities rub shoulders with new works from young, contemporary artists from all across the world. The museum has been compared favourably with Bilbao’s famous Guggemheim Museum as being a truly world class attraction in a small city. MONA is a must-visit regardless of whether you’re a serious fan of art or whether you’re just keen to experience something unique and wonderful.
Australia’s second oldest city is also one of its most picturesque. With the historic city dappled between the snow-capped peak of Mount Wellington and the harbour, Hobart has enough activities day and night to keep everyone entertained. With delicious seafood and fresh dairy products, as well as award-winning wineries and breweries, the foodies will love Hobart’s quaint restaurants and café’s, particularly those found around Victoria and Constitution Docks, while there are plenty of pubs, cool bars and nightclubs to whet one’s whistle after dark. The city also has a host of beautiful heritage-listed buildings to visit and is minutes away from nature, with wonderful trekking provided by the dominant Mount Wellington. Hobart was recently voted the 7th most recommended city in the world to visit next year by Lonely Planet and it comes as no surprise given that the Tasmanian capital is unlike any other city in Australia.
This beautiful curve of dolomite rock jutting above a glacial lake is considered something of the jewel in the crown of the 1262 sq-km Lake St Clair National Park. Towering 1545 metres above sea level, this rugged series of peaks perhaps best captures the allure of Tasmania’s rugged alpine heart. Despite being less than a two hour drive from Devonport, one of Tasmania’s larger regional centres, the mountain itself takes the best part of seven hours to get up and down and is exposed to the elements and the wild weather that can often change quickly and without warning. Despite this though, the breathtaking views offered at the summit, the beautiful natural scenery of the area, and the national park in general make this another hugely popular tourist attraction and another unique opportunity offered by Australia’s southern island.
The row of four heritage-listed sandstone warehouses marks Salamanca Place’s history, which dates backs to the 1830s when Salamanca served as the centre of the city’s whaling trade and its overall commercial hub. While the area fell into ruin and disrepair throughout much of the 20th Century, the revival of Tasmania’s sense of “heritage” in the 1970’s saw the area become redeveloped. Now the east end of Salamanca Place has become the subject of a number of expensive and large redevelopments, and is the centre of a large and vibrant art crowd. The non-profit run Salamanca Arts Centre occupies several of the old warehouses and is home to over 70 works of art. The well renowned Salamanca markets also operate every Saturday and play host to, not only the regions beautiful natural produce, but also its growing community of alternative artists and new-age hippies. .
THERE ARE PLACES IN
Tasmania WHERE THE TR AILS LE AD TO
. . . A N D I T ’ S O N L Y A D E E P B R E A T H A W A Y. Sydney Melbourne TASMANIA
Just a short flight from Melbourne or Sydney you can uncover our extraordinary island, where there’s no such thing as rush hour and space isn’t divided into cubicles. Come visit the southern island state of Australia where wide expanses of World Heritage Area wilderness will ignite your adventurous passions. Raft the legendary Franklin River, breathe in the beauty of the Tarkine, climb majestic Cradle Mountain or kayak beneath the pink granite mountains of the Freycinet Peninsula. Visit www.discovertasmania.com.au or www.backpacktassie.com for local backpacking info.
This is a six to eight day journey through Tasmania’s incredible Alpine wilderness through the Lake St Clair National Park. It is a wonderfully challenging, yet definitely achievable, odyssey for anyone stout of heart and possessed of a solid pair of hiking boots. The 65-80 kilometre hike has become perhaps the most definitive bushwalk in any of Australia’s states. Hikers must traverse sheer mountain terrain, temperate rainforest, wild rivers and snow-capped alpine plains in the protected World Heritage Area. In the warmer summer months tour groups and large numbers of experienced walkers tackle the track, whilst in the colder, winter months, the numbers of people walking the track lessen due to the frigid temperatures and low levels of sunlight during the day. (This actually makes the walk longer and more difficult.) Yet, even in summer, don’t expect the walk to be all sunshine and t-shirt weather – the region is well known for its unpredictable storms and cold snaps.
The home of the beautiful South Bruny National Park, Bruny Island provides the ultimate Tasmanian wilderness experience. On land, you can venture into the wilderness on one of the many Bruny Island bushwalks. On sea, you can catch an eco-cruise exploring the stunning coastline of the island. Bruny Island is home to fur seals, fairy penguins, and white wallaby and provides excellent opportunities for Birdwatching. This Island is actually almost two islands, joined by a narrow, 5km sandy isthmus called ‘The Neck’. Brunny’s coast can be described as magical and there are endless amounts of swimming and surfing beaches. Bruny is a brilliant island for touring, you can drive north to the sheltered beaches of Dennes Point and Killora; head south to Adventure Bay, the Cape Bruny Lighthouse and Cloudy Bay, where there is a great surf break. Bruny Island is building a reputation for top quality, local produce food and premium quality wine. You will find handmade fudge, chocolate, truffles, berries, cheese and fresh oysters, so get your taste buds on standby when you get off the ferry. Bruny Island Cheese Company is a great first stop. Another brilliant food experience will be had at Get Shucked Oyster Farm; you can wash down half a dozen oysters with a bottle of nonalcoholic chilli beer, which will defiantly help warm you up. And to satisfy your sweet tooth, Island Berry Farm where you can ‘pick your own’ or enjoy the farms juicy seasonal produce with ice-cream, scones or pancakes. AG
FREYCINET NATIONAL PARK/WINEGLASS BAY Half way down the east coast of Tasmania you’ll find this beautiful area, described as a laidback, salt-tousled holiday town. Coles Bay sits at the foot of the Granite Mountains known as the Hazards, and on the edge of the worldrenowned Freycinet National Park and Wineglass Bay (about two and ½ hour’s drive from Hobart and Launceston). Famous for the pink granite mountains rising straight from the sea. Also famous, according to the travel bible Lonely Planet, for Wineglass Bay which was named one of the top 10 beaches in the world. If you’re game enough, a very quick dip in the aqua blue clear sea is a must-do. It all looks rather tropical until you remember you are almost at the southern end of the globe! The Wineglass Bay Walk is one of the most popular routes in Tasmania, you can make the steep climb to Wineglass Bay Lookout to get magnificent views over the bay and peninsula. If you consider yourself a bit of a Bear Grylls wannabe then you will be spoilt for choice with bushwalking, fishing, rock climbing, mountain biking, snorkelling and surfing – the activity list is endless. AG
BAY OF FIRES The Bay of Fires is a 29km sweep of powdery white sand, crystal clear seas and granite splashed with orange lichen. It has been called one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. In 2009, this area was named one of the world’s hottest travel destinations by Lonely Planet and once you experience it first hand, you’ll understand why. Amongst the ‘Fires you’ll find quaint villages that are popular for fishing, boating, swimming and kayaking. The bay was named by Captain Tobias Furneaux in 1773 in response to the many Aboriginal fires he saw burning on its shore. People visiting the area today often believe that the name refers to the play of light on the water. It’s a good guess – the light in Tasmania has a crystalline quality which contrasts well with the white sand on the shores. AG
PORT ARTHUR This small settlement has a very interesting history. In 1830 Governor Arthur chose the Tasman Peninsula to confine prisoners who had committed further crimes in the colony. A ‘natural penitentiary’ – the peninsula is connected to the mainland by a strip of land less then 100m wide – Eagle hawk Neck is where ferocious guard dogs and tales of shark infested waters deterred escape. It was hell on Earth for the 12,500 prisoners who served hard, brutal time between 1830 and 1877. Australia’s first railway literally ‘ran’ the 7km between Northfolk Bay at Taranna and Long Bay near Port Arthur, where convicts pushed the carriages along the tracks. Many say that Port Arthur is a quiet a somber place, with most sights carrying this darker theme. Convict history is well documented throughout many of the landmarks, including The Port Arthur Historic Site, which is one of Tasmania’s busiest tourist attractions. Downstairs is an interpretative gallery where you can follow the convict’s journey from England to Tasmania. The Port Arthur Museum contains many displays; it was originally an asylum, housing patients from throughout the colony. Another fascinating place to visit is The Separate Prison which was built as a place of punishment for difficult prisoners, following a decision to ‘reform’ prisoners by isolation and sensory deprivation rather than flogging. If you enjoying getting spooked and things that go bump in the night then Port Arthur offers a range of ghost tours as well as the Isle of the Dead Cemetery Tour, Point Puer Boys’ Prison Tour and a Paranormal Investigation Experience. AG
FOOD AND WINE The food and wine in Tassie is so good it deserves a special mention. Visitors are treated to prime cheeses, mouthwatering berries, crisp apples, stone fruits, herbs, premium beef, specialty honey, mushrooms, cool-climate wines and some of Australia’s leading boutique and production beers and whiskies. Quench you thirst in Hobart, where you can tour the historic Cascade Brewery with its magnificent sandstone Georgian facade, located at the foot of Mount Wellington. Moorilla Estate, to the north of Hobart, creates boutique beers based on classic German traditions – the best hops, pure water and no preservatives. In Launceston, James Boag’s Premium Brewery, on the banks of the Tamar River is also open to visitors. Tasmania now produces such elegant cool-climate wines as pinot noir, riesling, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, pinot gris and sparkling wines. You would be mad not to visit the Cadbury Visitor Centre in Claremont and enjoy tasting some of the raw materials. Tasmania’s cool clean waters grow Atlantic salmon as the clean waters mean their diet is natural, free from antibiotics and hormones. You will find the best oysters, abalone, mussels, scallops, crayfish, snapper, blue-eye trevalla, and much more at punts and direct from trawlers at many places around the state. There is also several food and wine festivals and markets held throughout the calendar year, like Taste Tasmania in late December, while beer-lovers will be spoilt for choice with more than 100 boutique beers on offer during Tasmania Beer Festival. AG
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PORT ARTHUR WINEGLASS BAY RUSSELL FALLS MT. WELLINGTON TAHUNE AIRWALK HASTINGS CAVES CRADLE MOUNTAIN MT. FIELD
W ILLIAM R ILEY
WAS A CONVICT
WHO WAS ABANDONED AS A CHILD
AN ‘ INOFFENSIVE , ORDERLY ’ BOY
TRANSPORTED AT FOURTEEN , A DRUNK BY SIXTEEN , A MURDERER
He was in a most dreadful state to pass from this world to another.’ –R W R ’ T C T EPORT OF
ILEY S TRIAL IN
BY TWENTY - NINE TO
W ILLIAM R ILEY ?
AMAZING STORIES, EPIC HISTORY Discover more for yourself! – www.portarthur.org.au
Port Arthur, Tasmania Tel: 1800 659 101
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Go to tntdownunder.com and click on the WIN page. See webpage for terms and conditions. Winners will be selected at random.
CURIOUS ABOUT TASSIE? No doubt you’ve ticked the crazy east coast off your list, perhaps you’ve even been to Uluru, maybe even explored the west, but have you been to Tasmania? The little green state down under sometimes gets forgotten, but we’re here to tell you that you are crazy to neglect Australia’s Apple Isle. Tasmania is great for escaping the everyday. It’s an unspoilt playground for abundant wildlife, with scenery unlike anywhere else on Earth, certainly not a place that you should skip on past. Which is why TNT has teamed up with a whole bunch of our Tassie friends to put together this fantastic package allowing you and a mate the chance to sample some of 12
what the state has to offer. We’re offering one lucky reader and a friend a chance to win one of the following terrific prizes: GRAND PRIZE TOTAL VALUE $2,857 Return flights from Sydney/Melbourne to Hobart courtesy of Tourism Tasmania for two ($600 value) Under Down Under Explorer 6, multi day tour (6 days/5 nights) tour for two, Including Tasmania’s best national parks, Hobart, Launceston and much more. ($2,190 value) Pickled Frog One night private room for two in Hobart. ($67 value) RUNNER UP PRIZE WORTH $450 Port Arthur Historic Sites Paranormal
Investigation Experience for two. ($250 value) Tours Tasmania Wineglass Bay Day tour for two. ($200 value) THIRD PRIZE WORTH $308 Fun Tassie Tours Cradle Mountain Day tour for two. ($278 value) Gunns Plains Cave VIP Guide cave tour for two. ($30 value ) Competition closes: December 16th 2012 Terms & conditions apply. Visit tntdownunder.com for all entry details.
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Cradle Mountain TASMANIA
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Rocking the cradle Escape the Dystopian mainland for the rugged north west of Tassie. The crisp mountain air, and even crisper cider will add colour to your life WORDS ALEX HARMON
There is a beautiful scene in the 1998 film WHAT TO DO: Cradle Mountain day tours with Tours Pleasantville where the townsfolk begin Tasmania depart from Launceston to feel emotion for the very first time and (three or four times/week), briefly the whole place comes to life with bursts stopping in Sheffield (the ‘Town of colour. The little town of Sheffield in of Murals’), and Cradle Mountain Tasmania a little bit like that. National Park. From $115pp. See: After driving 90 minutes west of Launceston, through quiet winding roads tourstas.com.au looking at fields of green, dotted with ACCOMMODATION: white sheep and country houses we arrive Dorms at Launceston Backpackers in what is commonly known as the ‘Town start from $24p/n. See: of Murals’ and see colour so extraordinary, launcestonbackpackers.com. it’s as if this town in the middle of nowhere au. Arthouse Backpackers have has come to bloom. dorms from $23/night. See: It was in 1986 when Sheffield, with arthousehostel.com.au a population of less than 2,000 people, GETTING THERE: Virgin painted its first mural. Since then, over 60 flies from Sydney to Launceston murals portraying the area’s rich history and daily. See virginaustralia.com.au stunning natural scenery have been painted on walls scattered throughout the town and buildings along the roadside. Now the town attracts over 200,000 people a year who come to be swept away by the colour and beauty on every corner. Almost every shop has a wall depicting one aspect of the town’s past. There’s the old blacksmith, the printing press, farmers with their horse and carts, the kinds of things that have been lost throughout history. Sheffield got the idea from the small logging town of Chemainus in Canada which resurrected itself through murals when the old mill was shut down. (Although, these days, the tiny Tassie town has more murals than its Canadian cousins.) There’s also a park that showcases the very best from the town’s annual ‘Mural Fest’. Here we ponder some more modern pieces articulating consumerism and lost Aboriginal heritage – at least that is my interpretation. Even if you’re not an art critic, grab yourself a coffee from one of the quaint cafes and make your way around the town, annoying your friends with Instagram posts from this outdoor art gallery. Even the local skate park is beautiful, with graffiti in positive, swirling pastel colours.
With the inspiring Cradle Mountain looming in the background, you could say Sheffield has an artistic hold over all those who pass through. Going the whole hog The peak of Cradle Mountain had been with us for some time, recognising it is easy. Its iconic shape is like spotting the Eiffel Tower when flying into Paris. Although it is named after its resemblance to a miner’s cradle, an old 19th century device used to separate gold or other heavy minerals from soil, from where I’m standing, the brilliant peaks come together like an old, jagged comb. Some even say it looks like a baby’s rocking cradle, but surely that is the eponym putting ideas in their heads (I sound like the repressed Mayor in Pleasantville).
If these walls could talk...
Cradle, or comb? You be the judge
Many of the buildings that lead to up to Cradle Mountain are made from dolomite which is taken from the mountain, so it’s almost like you’re getting a taste of the mountain before you arrive. This reminds me of the way the Spanish consume a whole pig, letting no hoof or offal go to waste. The heritage buildings we pass are like Cradle Mountain’s chorizo. Not having time to do the Overland Track, a six day hike, (the whole hog, you could say) we opt for a day tour of the World Heritage area of Cradle Mountain National Park. We commence by doing the ‘Enchanted Walk’ a short stroll into the dense rainforest. “Lord of the Rings was almost filmed in this area, but they couldn’t rely on the ever-changing weather,” our guide tells us. It could easily be the Forest of Fangorn with the Misty Mountains in the background, but as we know, leading lady Queenstown snapped up that role. What was filmed here was a James Boags’ beer ad with a couple of kayakers who threw themselves off a gushing waterfall. No trick cinematography here, the men in the commercial actually cascaded over the edge in their narrow little boats. I’m pretty impressed by that. At the base of Cradle Mountain we are presented with the magnificent, deep blue Dove Lake. There’s a 6km track that will take us right around the lake and beneath the towering spires of Cradle Mountain. Even though it’s spring, the peaks are dusted in snow and we’re told to be prepared for all conditions. The guide isn’t exaggerating, during the two hour walk around the lake, we experience wind, rain, a light 16
splattering of snow and some sun. The tour is completely self-guided (it’s not hard to get lost, even for directionally-challenged people like myself) so you’re able to walk at your own pace. This allows us to stop and take photos of the centerpiece and snack on the crisp Tassie apples our guide sent us packing with. It’s not the most strenuous of walks, but it allows you to take in all of the mountain’s brilliance. The round trip allows you to see the mountain in so many different shades, and the dynamic weather ensures that you will see it in many different colours. She’ll be apples When life gives you apples – make cider, right? This could be the unofficial motto of Launceston, as I find out later that night. After a long day on the mountain, we arrive back in ‘Launie’ (as the locals call it), to go in search of the nightlife. We’re a little underwhelmed by the first pub we step into, as we are clearly the youngest people to step foot into it in years and our out-of-town aura attracts many a stare from people who look like they’re part of the furniture. The old Boags’ advertisements on the walls are almost like a walk down beer marketing history, but I can’t figure out if this is irony, or lazy housekeeping. We decide to move on, rather uninspired by the town’s atmosphere on a Friday night. That is until we stumble upon a tiny bar bursting with people. On the ghost-like main streets, this bar appears to be a mirage, so imagine our surprise when we walk in to find
Yes! Thatâ€™s a wolf* on the bar! FREE wolf pats @ The Pickled Frog Backpackers, Hobart
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Extended tour packages from 3 to 7 days with quality accommodation and day tours to Tasmaniaâ€™s popular destinations are offered from Hobart and Launceston. Itineraries are designed to include a combination of heritage, nature and wildlife. Private charter tour can also be customised to your interests and requirements. Travel is in comfortable and safe minibuses with reclining seats and safety belts. Fun Tassie Tours specialises in guided small group tours ideal for couples, friends and individual travellers at moderate price, and with personalised service. As an accredited tour business since 2005, it is committed to quality assurance and customer service.
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6 days and 5 nights Explore the whole island with local guides who will show you the very best Tasmania has to offer!
>C8AJ9:H/ Â™ Wildlife Sanctuary entry fee Â™ 5 nights accommodation using inc Tasmanian Devil feeding Hostels with shared facilities Â™ Meals as indicated (5 Breakfasts Â™ Entry to Port Arthur Historic Site inc Guided Walk and Harbour Cruise & 1 West Coast BBQ Dinner) Â™ Hotel and Hostel pickups Â™ All National Park entry fees and drop offs Â™ Entry to â€œThe Ship That Never Wasâ€?
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Enjoy spectacular shawl formations, stalactites, and stalagmites. In this mysterious subterranean world witness GlowWorms. Maybe spy Freshwater Lobster and Platypus in a rushing underground stream. Open Daily. Closed Christmas Day Guided tours @ 10am, 11am, 12pm, 130pm, 230pm & 330pm Entry only $15 per person. Caves Rd Gunns Plains TAS 7315 Phone 03 64291388 firstname.lastname@example.org www.gunnsplainscaves.com.au
What if the best cider in Launceston created a bar? out that it’s a fully-fledged bar dedicated to cider. Dickens Bar has only been open a few months but it’s got a strong fan base in town. The young blonde bartenders, who happen to be cousins, coax us into sampling the four ciders on tap. This isn’t your average cider, but then again, Tasmania doesn’t grow your average apples, it grows the country’s best. On tap at Dickens you’ll find pear cider, old English cider, cloudy cider and a cider made from Pink Lady apples mixed with Pinot Noir. I opt for the latter, which is stronger than I expect. Perhaps it was all the walking around Cradle Mountain I’ve done but it has me trolleyed. John Dickens, one of the co-owners just happens to be sitting next to me at the bar and we chat about his business bottling apples. “We’re a wholesale company who have made ciders for years and we’ve always loved doing the stalls at festivals,”
says John. “Opening the bar just seemed like a natural extension of that.” Looking around, the crowd seems very Sydney, lots of well-dressed hipsters with designer moustaches taking photos of their drinks with their iPhones, some of them are even playing the old board game Connect Four. It feels like I’ve stepped into a trendy Sydney bar. The only difference is, the lights are shining very bright – if this were Sydney, there would be dark mood lighting to hide our red-flushed faces, I think to myself. “We actually hope to one day open a cider bar in Sydney,” John tells me, as if to read my mind. I tell him it’s just what cider-loving Sydney needs. Just remember to dim the lights, I suggest. If Tassie has taught me something on this trip, it’s that we live a monochrome life on the mainland. ❚
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Becky Wicks The hilarious writer who lifted the burqa on Dubai in her debut novel Burqalicious has just written a book on Bali. She tells us about life as a Balinese local and why she looks like Lassie INTERVIEW ALEX HARMON
manner (and maybe to bag a hot Brazilian man). But seriously, I met some of the most powerful, strong, intelligent and fascinating women in Bali, which is strange because Bali, and in particular Ubud, which takes its name from its surrounding jungles and medicinal plant offerings, is allegedly a vortex of healing and feminine energy. Who would play you in a Balilicious film adaptation? Probably an unwashed dog at this point, like Lassie after falling down a mine for four weeks. I’m a bit of a wandering gypsy at the moment, but in human terms… God, that’s hard. I would hope for someone like Natalie Portman but I’d probably get an extra from Home and Away.
Living the dream: “I might get a massage, go to a cock fight, do some writing”
Hi Becky, tell us, why Bali? To be honest I flew from Sydney to Bali on a holiday with no plan and was just totally romanced by the island. The hot yoga instructors in Ubud were one thing but not being a fan of yoga myself I was intrigued by the stories of magic and mystery in both the expat world and the local culture. I pitched another book, (this one’s my second travel diary) and luckily the publishers let me stay there to write it! Describe a typical day in Bali A day doesn’t start without being rudely awoken by a rooster, probably around 4am. Then, just as you’ve fallen back to sleep, someone will start sweeping around your door with a giant broom. A fresh coconut and egg-on-toast for breakfast is key, then comes a zoom around on your motorbike (which you can rent for $50 a month). I might get a massage, go to a cock fight, do some writing, or I might forget all that and go for a vaginal steam before a past life regression session with a psychic called Galactica Blanco. What do you miss about Bali? God, everything! Seriously I’m like a broken record. I miss the sunshine, the cheap, healthy organic food, the way the Balinese are so smiley
and kind, my motorbike, partying in the Gili Islands, talking to spiritual nutters, scuba diving. And the worst thing about Bali? The traffic. You can’t go five metres in Ubud these days without ramming into the back of someone’s motorbike and getting tangled in a hippy’s dreadlock. And the litter is pretty bad. The Balinese used to eat from palm leaves and just discard them on the floor, but doing the same with plastic bags is causing a huge problem. Still, there are lots of organisations taking actions to clean up the island, which is great. Did Bali ‘change’ you? I should probably say yes, I’m way more spiritual and I really ‘found myself’ whilst sitting crosslegged on a mat, chanting om. But I wasn’t really changed by any of that. I guess I’m calmer, I take my time to do things because that’s the Balinese way, and I appreciate the little things now, the moments that used to just get drowned by city noise and lost in chaos. I think we can all learn something from spending time in Bali. Tell me about the ‘Julia Roberts Syndrome’? Well, after Eat Pray Love thousands flocked in to contemplate their lives in a more existential
Travel writing seems like a dream job, how did you get to where you are? Well, I wrote a lot of other stuff before the travel writing thing happened. Sometimes about nothing. I blogged about my mental time in Dubai as a celeb editor dating a rich Muslim man, which became my first book, ‘Burqalicious – the Dubai Diaries.’ Things just grew from there. Any advice for aspiring travel writers? I think you have to be willing to write even when you don’t feel like it. Put your name out there by blogging travel related topics and your sense of adventure will shine. Then pitch stories about the places you want to go. Update your blog regularly, even if it’s just a photo and a small paragraph every day. Keep your eye on upcoming, hot destinations and approach relative mags, bloggers and publishers with your ideas for stories. Whereabouts in the world are you now? Right now I’m sitting at a tapestry covered table in a hostel in the tiny town of Purmamarca, northern Argentina. Tomorrow I’m crossing into Bolivia. I’m working on my third book, ‘Latinalicious – the South American Diaries’ so it’s a lot of moving about, but it’s fun! Becky Wicks’ second novel, Balilicious, The Bali Diaries is out December 1st. harpercollins.com.au
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Gypsy and the Cat One half of the celebrated Aussie electro-pop duo, Xavier Bacash, talks to us about the new album, The Late Blue, leaving Sony and making music for the cows of the sea INTERVIEW HUGH RADOJEV
How was working with producer David Fridmann? We‘d never really sat in a studio with someone, so it’s really good to have someone help us make our choices. It’s important having another person’s ear on things. When you’re recording there are obviously a lot of sounds going on and it was interesting to hear his perspective of things. He was absolutely integral in drawing it out, making it as good as it could be. He helped toughen the shit out of a lot of stuff as well.
Not pop: “It’s supposed to be euphoric and dreamy”
The new album is less full of singles than the last, was that deliberate? Yeah, I think the kind of thing we’re doing now is what we always wanted to do. The first record was really ghost written for films, it wasn’t necessarily written to be released as part of a band. We toured it a lot obviously but by the end I couldn’t really relate to it [Gilgamesh] anymore and nor could Lionel. I guess we just both needed a change. So I guess part of it was conscious, but another part of it was just what we’ve always wanted to do.
Initial reations to the new album have been good, is that a relief? Well yeah, I think a couple of people literally previewed thirty seconds of our new songs on iTunes and hated it, wanted another Jona Vark or whatever and I guess those are the kinds of fans we can afford to lose. If they don’t want to listen to the record that’s fair enough but we didn’t want to make the same kind of album as Gilgamesh. Lots of reviewers are getting it, because they listen to it intently, I don’t think it’s a record you can just skim over, you have to listen to all of it.
Was the song writing process much different back then? Yeah, because I think we sort of rushed through the last record in a sense. Everything on that record was programmed and now everything is live. We’ve obviously played live a lot in the last two years and that had an effect on the way we came to write the new record as well.
So you can’t relate to anything from the first album now? There are some good tunes on that record, but they’re surrounded by pop. I don’t hate Jona Vark, I’m quite grateful to that song in a way but yeah, most of the others I have a really tough time listening to.
You guys originally met as DJs in Melbourne? Yeah, I mean not like serious DJs, that kind of thing got blown out of proportion a little bit in the early days of the press interviews. We just played at the same club together and met there.
You’ve used pop in a negative way there, the new album’s still poppy They’re supposed to be euphoric and dreamy but at the same time it’s pretty tough, with the live drums and stuff. I guess when I say pop I mean it’s not like Rihanna or anything.
Why did you leave Sony? At the end of the cycle for the last album the guy who signed us for Sony got fired, then they replaced him with someone else who we got on alright with, but then he got fired as well. It just got to the point where we couldn’t get money for the video clip for Jona Vark, everything just came way too late. Like we were booked for Lollapalooza and Coachella, these huge international music festivals and they wouldn’t even pay for us to go over there. It was preposterous that a label would deny a band those opportunities. So it got to the point where it was like, no way. Have you guys had a chance to play the new songs live yet? Well at Splendour in the Grass this year we played four of the new songs, but we’ve not played all of them. Yeah, it’s going to be interesting. Do they sound bigger live? Yeah, because of the last record being all programmed we maybe didn’t get great dynamic on stage, as much light and shade within the songs themselves. With live drums, you can really get that dynamic happening. Are you going to take up the offer to make music for Sydney’s Dugong Island? Probably (laughs) I don’t know. I’d rather do the aquarium proper, but we’ll see. Well, hopefully after this little Australian run we get a chance. Catch Gypsy and the Cat at the Metro Sydney on Nov 8 and the Hi-Fi in Brisbane on Nov 10 gypsyandthecat.com
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SKYFALL FILM review by Alasdair Morton STARRING: Daniel Craig, Naomie Harris, Javier Bardem | MA | 142min
PITCH PERFECT FILM preview. Released December 6 Anna Kendrick, Brittany Snow, Rebel Wilson | M | 112mins
Beca (Anna Kendrick), a freshman at University, is cajoled into joining ‘The Bellas’, an all-girls singing group. adding new energy into the group, The Bellas take on their male rivals in a campus competition. It sounds like Glee graduates highschool, watches The Breakfast Club and injects some campness into it. Aussie Rebel Wilson, once again, plays the ‘fat’ character.
Daniel Craig is a great Bond, but he’s not had a great movie yet. That’s all changed with his third outing Skyfall, which is, simply, the best Bond in decades. Much as Connery had to wait until his third Bond, Goldfinger, for the Broccolis to nail the formula, it is Craig’s third outing, and his first with Bond newbie director Sam Mendes, that pulls all the pieces together. Ditching the Quantum story arc from the previous two films, thankfully, it’s a story in its own right, with a beleaguered Bond struggling with age and to protect MI6 from an assailant wreaking chaos over the intelligence service. Mendes, above all, brings an emotional honesty to the film; Bond’s journey touches on his heritage, emotional issues, and paints 007 as a real human being. Craig (the “bland character actor” said the naysayers when his casting was announced in 2005) shades Bond with regret, a sense of humour and fear, even, bringing a sense of danger and jeopardy that had been previously lacking. While the Bond Babes (Naomie Harris’ agent and Berenice Marlohe’s femme fatale) are given little screentime, Javier Bardem’s villain Raoul Silva is a freakish, violent force of nature and an adversary deserving the fear and anarchy he births. It is, fittingly, a most British of Bonds – much of the story’s set in or around London – and Mendes delivers the action in a pulsating bike-car-train opening sequence and thrilling London Underground chase especially. It’s current, yet aware of the series’ past – it is, essentially, the Bond Craig and we have been waiting for.
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Room with a brew No man is an island, but XXXX Island comes pretty close. We talk to the clever bunch who have brewed this beery island to fruition WORDS ALEX HARMON
Photos: XXXX Island
An island created by a beer company, specifically for beer lovers may seem like a beer lover's wet dream, but on the southern Great Barrier Reef, XXXX Gold have made this a reality. The six hectare island, formally known as Pumpkin Island on the Capricorn Coast in central Queensland has been taken over by the ingenious beer company, and now goes by the name XXXX Island. “This is not Club Med – it’s more Club Shed. We’re not offering up a five star resort, but rather one of the most perfect places on earth to simply kick back with nature and enjoy a beer with your mates,” says Anna McMillan, XXXX’s marketing manager. In a clever piece of marketing from ‘Queensland’s favourite beer’, XXXX Island is only accessible by competition prize winners with each winner allowed to bring three mates. Therefore each weekend there will only be 24 lucky people living the good life. As, Caroline Masterson XXXX GOLD brand manager explains, “The prizes are worth $10,000 but it’s not actually about the monetary value, it’s more about the bragging rights. We only have 1,000 consumers who get to experience XXXX Island every year so it’s very much money can’t buy experience.” In what appears to be a world first, this ‘mate's only experience’ was created when XXXX asked their beer drinkers what their ultimate fantasy island would consist of. Over 25,000 people voted on their personal favourite ideas and XXXX Gold put their tools to work. Naturally, on an island created for beer lovers, there are no day spas but there are most certainly pool tables; there’s no room service, but fishing for your dinner is encouraged; and beer is served by a board short wearing ‘beer bulter'. The island's pièce de résistance, the beach bar, overlooks the stunning reef and serves only XXXX Gold ("what else would you want?" asks Masterson). Touches of ingenuity include the floating footy posts 20 metres off shore where mates can play a bit of beach footy, a one-hole golf course for the lazy golfer, a pully system that delivers you beer (for the lazy drinker), or my personal
It's not about the money, it's about the bragging rights
favouite, the ‘loo with a view' – so you can release yourself with a beautiful view of the ocean (one-sided glass ensure there won't be any stage fright.) “We have also been busy fitting out the cabins which have slightly different themes,” says Masterson. “We have a fishing themed cabin, a footy cabin., we’ve got one called the house of rock which is a music theme and we’ve also got the motor shack. “ For those that think cabins are for the soft, there is also a camp ground, called ‘base camp’ which as Masterson says, “is located on the most beautiful part of the island, looking back to the mainland. Guests have the most amazing views of the sunset. It’s got these two large semi-permanent tents that are very safari style.” “These are ideas that our drinkers have had, they tend to be an ingenuous lot," explains Masterson. "They certainly have thought of everything. “But if there’s something they think the island is missing, we are open to evolve, we want to keep the island fresh,” Masterson assures. If the ad campaigns are anything to go by, the island takes a very tongue in cheek approach to what men want on holiday. From billboards with men relaxing on the beach with their feet in foot spas made from Eskys, to the TVC campaigns of ‘real Aussie men’ hanging together in a land where “bean spouts and salads are banned," XXXX Island appears to be the ultimate man-cation. “XXXX Gold is a brand that doesn’t take itself too seriously," adds Guyder. But it's not just for the love of beer, Capricorn Enterprise
Teeing off in the world's shortest golf game
CEO Mary Carroll says the island has already injected hundreds of thousand of dollars into the local economy. “This is the single biggest marketing campaign this destination has seen since Get Wrecked on Great Keppel in the 1980s. “A thousand people each year, from all over Australia, who wouldn’t normally have visited the Capricorn Coast will be exposed to our area,” said Ms Carroll. Carrying the XXXX Gold flag is TV personality Jules Lund (below), recruited as one the island’s ambassadors.
Jules on XXXX Island
“It’s awesome to be a part of this fantastic campaign. I’ve been there and as far as islands go, it’s just about perfect. I’m looking forward to working with this great group of ambassadors to help tell Aussies how they have a chance to get themselves to XXXX Island,” said Lund. The island was bought by John and Sonja Rumble in 2003 for $1.3 million, and they gave it to their son Wayne, for his 27th birthday. He now runs it with partner and views the XXXX Island stunt as a "great opportunity for the island that will only bring more people to the area". Rumble ensures that XXXX will respect the eco-friendly nature of the space. “We're all about the sustainability – a lot of the power is brought from solar," says Masterson. "We’re conscious of maintaining the environmental integrity of the island so all of our water is from enactments, from rainwater. We’ve got a couple of generators as back up but we want to rely on the natural resources form sun, water and wind. Part of the appeal is, at the end of the day, you’ve got this perfect location on the Barrier Reef, but you really want to showcase it and ensure that people respect the island too." But surely an island full of testosterone, competitive sports and an endless supply of beer is a recipe for disaster? “Well it’s a mid strength beer, so it’s lower in alcohol and we serve it along side water and non alcoholic beverages. For us it’s very important that we’re being responsible with consumption and we need to comply with RSA as would any venue back on the mainland. We’re very conscious of that and we want to promote responsible consumption. “So far, so good.” ❚ To read more about XXXX Island, see: xxxxisland.com.au
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SUNRISE SALUTE Nicolas Espeisse, 29, France
WE SAY: “Easily the top photo we saw this last month. The lighting, composition and overall feeling of this photograph is great! Love the way the light shows through the tree stump!”
MONTHLY RUNNER-UP CITY OF SAILS Howard Harrison, 24, UK
WE SAY: “The Opera House is one of the single most photographed buildings in the whole world let alone Sydney but this photograph is excellent. We love the way that Howard has framed the city and juxtaposed it against the Opera House and the gardens in the foreground. Great photograph and a worthy runner up.”
HOT TIPS: Framing Good framing is fundamental to great photography, and makes the difference between boredom and fascination. Bear in mind that what you leave out is as important as what you include. When shooting, you should think about what it is that makes this scene interesting to you. Experiment with different lenses and angles and see how things turns out.
THREE DAYS CAR HIRE Photos were judged by the TNT editorial team at their own discretion. Send high-res (300 dpi) jpegs with name, age, nationality and a description, to: email@example.com Monthly winner Nicolas wins three days campervan hire from Mightyn Campers Australia (mightycampers.com.au)
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TALK RITA PIZZINI 25, ITALY
YOU ASKED FOR IT... WE ANSWER YOUR TRAVEL QUESTIONS
the best place to purchase Q Where’s authentic, good quality, fair trading Aboriginal art and didgeridoos? Matthew Hunt, UK looking to buy indigenous Australian A When art, the closer you are to the source, the more likely you are to purchase an authentic work and help out indigenous communities at the same time. In that case, you’re best off buying from the communities themselves or from a gallery owned and operated by one, which you’ll find mostly near outback towns such as Alice Springs. Otherwise, seek out products sold with a ‘Label of Authenticity’ tag, provided by the National Indigenous Arts Advocacy Association and guaranteeing that the artwork you’re buying is genuine and the money you spend is directed back to the artist or their community. As for didgeridoos, those you see for sale in souvenir shops throughout Australia are usually mass-produced and not made using traditional methods, although you can still belt a decent tune out of one. Authentic didges,
again purchased from a community outlet if possible, are painted with traditional designs and are fabulous artworks in themselves. Visit aboriginalart.com.au for more information. Sydney but want to go away Q Iforlivetheinweekend somewhere remote.
This award-winning hostel is about to celebrate its ten year anniversary and you can tell why it does so well. Modern, clean, spacious and with a sense of fun at all times. You only need OVERVIEW
WHERE IS YOUR FAVE PLACE IN OZ? Ningaloo Reef and Cape Range National Park in WA. SCARIEST EXPERIENCE? I almost got stuck driving my old car on the beach near the Pinnacles Desert. But what a wonderful landscape!
What do you suggest? Yu Jones, Korea along the coast north from Sydney A Drive and you’ll go through endless suburban housing estates before reaching anywhere remotely... remote. Port Stephens is pleasantly under-developed for somewhere so close to Sydney, while further north Myall Lakes is a peaceful, low-key coastal lake system with opportunities for surfing, boating, fishing and rainforest hikes. The coast south of Sydney is less developed, with smaller towns and empty beaches backed by a rainforest. Narooma and Bateman’s Bay triple in size during summer but the smaller coastal hamlets like Durras, Moruya Heads and Cong manage to retain a pleasant atmosphere during the busy season.
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WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN IN OZ? The west coast, from Perth to Darwin. Then took the Ghan to Adelaide, then Melbourne, Tasmania and Sydney.
to visit their bar downstairs any night of the week to know why. ROOMS Mixed or all-female dorms as well as private rooms with and without an en-suite. Very secure. BILL PLEASE Dorms start from $34/ night for an 10-share. 509 Pitt St, Sydney (opp Central Station) wakeup.com.au
MOST MEMORABLE EXPERIENCE? Waking up under heavy snow at Cradle Mountain in Tasmania. I never knew it snowed in Australia! DONE ANYTHING UNUSUAL? Three days without a shower, in the wild west of Tasmania. But the Aussie lifestyle is so relaxed! MET ANY AUSSIE ANIMALS? A platypus in Tasmania, quokka at Rottnest Island and crocodiles in the Northern Territory are my favourite. YOU WISH YOU’D BROUGHT... A 4WD fully equipped to go anywhere in remote areas.
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www.kiwiexperience.com Terms and conditions: Discounted rates apply to standard brochured rates on the Sheepdog pass only. Bookings must be made between 2 Nov-29 Nov 2012. Standard 12 month travel validity applies. Offer not valid in conjunction with any other offer. Kiwi Experience reserves the right to withdraw this offer at anytime and without notice. Prices are in Australian dollars. Standard Kiwi Experience travel and booking terms and conditions apply. KX1050-10/12-AUDTNT
TRAVELLERSTALE Briton VICTORIA LOGAN discovers diamonds may be a girl’s best friend, but pearls pay the rent in Darwin... While travelling, I have found myself doing jobs I wouldn’t normally do at home due to wanting to make my time here that little bit more memorable. From tree planting in Perth and car washing in Cairns, Darwin was to prove just as unique. Me and my travel buddy Chloe, who I met in Sydney seven months ago and has become my BFF ever since, signed up for work on the pearl boats. Fully aware of how demanding the job is and of how difficult it is to actually get the work, we jumped at the chance when we got the call. We flew on the smallest plane known to man and my nerves were shot to bits. Chloe’s observation of “there’s only one pilot, what do we do if he has a heart attack?!” didn’t really help the situation. But soon enough we arrived safely on Crocker Island. We were picked up by Bear, a larger than life character who had no hesitation in asking, “Are you girls a couple?” With the important things out of the way, we learned a bit more about our role for the next 10 days. Bear explained we would be living at Point David, with a crew of about 10 guys. Everyday at 6am we would go out to meet the boat and process the shells – 31,000 shells to be exact. We would work until 4.30pm every day, then come back to the island where we would have the evenings to ourselves. Although we weren’t sure what was exactly involved in the “processing”, we were more than happy to become part of the team. We were introduced to the boys and put straight to work. If we were in any doubt of our job description, it became clear the moment we stepped onto the boat. Obvious that every team member would inevitably finish work each day covered in what can only be described as “fish goo”. Regardless of this, we pulled on our overalls and stepped up. There were apparently six easy steps. Open the shell; remove the pearl; scrape 36
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the meat out; scrub the shell with a metal brush until it gleams; rinse the shell in salt water and finally, put the shell in buckets marked either A, B or C, dependent on size and shape. That process was repeated from 6am until 4.30pm everyday in 35°C heat and 100 per cent fish stench! With about 15 backpackers and 10 crew already working on the boat, it was good to know we weren’t the only crazy people in town. We got through it though. We learned to live with the constant smell of fish guts, finding new ways to keep ourselves entertained. Thomas, our new Dutch friend, told us stories of how he was related to Elvis, while the skipper Steve told very inappropriate jokes. Every so often during the day we would wash down the boat of all the fish remains and bad pearl meat and watch the assortment of fish and sharks that would come to the surface for their daily afternoon feast. This in turn led us to a new found hobby, fishing. After work the boys would sit on the end of the pier, watch the sunset
and fish. I use the term “fish” loosely – we didn’t catch any fish throughout the duration of the trip. We grew more and more attached to island life and also to our group. But after 10 days it was time to go back to Darwin and get a proper job. Crocker Island, however, will always have a very special place for these two wandering travellers.
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Orchid Guest House offers backpackers the option of staying in a cosy, clean and friendly “home away from home”. Relax in a tranquil setting amongst the palm trees and orchids. All Rooms air/con and fan, TV & fridge, beds made up with linen. Free washing machine. Fully equipped kitchen. Cleanliness guaranteed - Free pick-up from bus, train and ferry during ofﬁce hours or by arrangement.
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Just five hours from the east coast of Australia and across the glistening Pacific lies the Treasured Islands of Samoa – voted the best value destination of the South Pacific. Make your way around the islands and you’ll discover spectacular waterfalls, dramatic blowholes, stunning coral reefs and crystal clear lagoons where you can swim with turtles. Samoa boasts the most pristine beaches with dazzling white sand beaches and sparkling turquoise waters. Life ambles at its own measured pace and it’s not just because of the balmy tropical weather. With the average temperature at 30 degrees Celsius, no wonder there is a smile on every face that greets you. In Samoa, the smiles are infectious and come from within – a sense of security that stems from a nation that is both politically and economically stable.
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Balkan road tripping Bosnia is a riot of incredible mountains, secret caves, spiritual spots and locals who really know how to party WORDS CLAIRE VOOGHT
Bosnia has had more than its fair share of conflict, especially in the past 20 years. Bullet holes and bomb damage in cities and villages across the country serve as a reminder of the war that killed 100,000 people and displaced 2.2 million. But despite the deep-seated scars of battle and genocide, Bosnia has managed to retain plenty of natural beauty and charm. The historic capital, with its unique mix of Eastern and Western culture, contains stories that will make your jaw drop. And, as for the countryside, its lush green mountains and clear rivers make it the perfect destination for sporty adventures on a seven-day road trip. Chilly waters, Kravica Waterfalls
Photos: Clare Vooght; Amy Adams; Thinkstock, Getty
While many tourists head straight for the Plitvice waterfalls, those in the know say that the best cascading whitewater experience in Bosnia is at the Kravica Waterfalls. This southern spot in the Herzevgovinian part of the country (it’s officially Bosnia-Herzegovina), has rapids, a natural plunge pool and a waterside bar where you can sit in the shade with a beer and a barbecue lunch. It’s a baking hot day when I visit, but after dipping an exploratory toe in the water, I’m decidedly chilly. Even so, the braver members of our group dive straight in (before shrieking), but I make no secret of being a wuss when it comes to freezing water – and what might be lurking in it. And anyway, lying on the banks under the sun and the cooling spray is far from a bad deal. When I ask our guide, Mustafa, why he’s not swimming either, he pokes fun at me: “I survived the war, why would I want to swim in there with all the fish?” I’ve just discovered Bosnian humour, and it’s drier than the Sahara. The big smoke, Sarajevo “Want to go to a bar that used to be a Communist cinema?” That’s not an invitation I receive very often, so I have no intention of turning it down. As soon as our group arrives in the capital, we head to Kino Bosna (Alipasina 19, 71000). Every Monday, a traditional Bosnian folk band plays on the stage where the screen used to be, while students and locals sit back on old cinema chairs or chat around tables in the
middle. The super-hip venue is part warehouse rave, part museum. Pictures of old movie stars line the walls, mostly from black-and-white flicks, and there’s also a rogue shot of Sacha Baron Cohen as Borat – but it’s still in black and white, of course. The beers are some of the cheapest in the city, and we’re drinking our new favourite, Sarajevska, which costs only about £1.50 a pop. In every box of the brown-bottled, light beer, there’s one green bottle that’s supposed to be lucky, so we’re keeping our eyes peeled. Before long, the band members are jumping off the stage to serenade the crowd, who are singing along at full blast – it’s a wonderfully chaotic night out that proves Sarajevo’s taste for a rollicking good time. Sore heads are soothed by a hearty hostel breakfast the next morning, and then it’s time to find out about Sarajevo’s vast and complicated history. The city’s name means “castle in the field”, but now, “mountains around a city” would be a more apt appellation – Sarajevo sprawls right up to the feet, and sometimes halfway up, of its surrounding mountains. A walk around the city shows very different cultural influences – you can hear the Muslim call to prayer and the bells from Christian churches at the same time. The Old Town’s cobbled streets, Persian rug stores and a covered bazaar lie on one side of the city, while on the other are more Westernised buildings and malls. Of course, Bosnia has struggled under the control of many different powers – the Ottomans, Austria-Hungary, Nazi Germany and Yugoslavia, to name a few. In 1914, when it was under Austro-Hungarian rule, Sarajevo saw the First World War begin with the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria on the banks of the river Miljacka in the centre of town. More recently, it was under siege in the Bosnian War between 1992 and 1995. Mustafa was a teenager in Sarajevo during the war. He remembers hearing foreign news reporters had dubbed one of its streets “Sniper Alley” when Serb soldiers were positioned in the mountains surrounding the city, and thinking: “‘Which one?’ There wasn’t one sniper alley, they were all sniper alleys.” He takes us past the main market, which was devastated during the war when a shell landed in the middle of it. SixtyTNTDOWNUNDER.COM
hearing how many people badly bashed their foreheads on the wood and steel beams while walking through the dark, we’re super-careful. Whitewater rafting, Konjic Out of the city and into unspoilt countryside, we’re back on the road to Konjic for some whitewater rafting in the mountains. It snowed a couple of days ago, so the water is extra cold. I knock back a few shots of rakija – the local spirit smells a little bit like paint stripper, but I’ve developed a taste for it. Then I’m wetsuited up, on the raft and not feeling the cold quite so much. After a relaxed drift, the river starts to narrow and our guide shouts from the helm: “Everybody paddle!” We cut our oars into the white river as the waves splash up into our faces. It’s freezing, but the adrenaline makes up for it, and every time we pass another section of rapids the buzz grows and the waves get bigger. When we reach the local house that’s our destination, an enormous lunchtime feast of hearty Bosnian soups, beef-stuffed peppers and roast potatoes is waiting for us.
Adrenaline-pumping rafting in Konjic
Getting spiritual, Blagaj six people were killed and 200 wounded. Today, life goes on, and unlike other parts of the city that bear bullet holes and bomb damage, there aren’t many signs left of the tragedy here – the market is crammed with people buying their fruit and vegetables. Shopkeepers in the Old Town have even turned copper bombshells into beautiful ornaments – people have made the best of what life has delivered. Cool cafes and coffee houses are the big new trend. Seek out Mash (Branilaca Sarajeva, Bascarsija), which often remains open until past midnight. Or there’s Morica Han (Saraci 49
Shopkeepers have turned bombshells into beautiful ornaments
Sarajevo, Bascarsija) in the Old Town, which serves some of the best Bosnian coffee (it’s as strong and dark as the Turkish stuff) around. Just opposite is Ulica Bravadziluk, which Mustafa tells me makes the tastiest burek around. He eats one of these local fried pastry pies at least every other day from various counters across the city, so I’m confident he’s more than qualified to judge. War Tunnels, Sarajevo A short drive out of the bustle are the war tunnels, built to provide an alternative route out of sniper-surrounded Sarajevo, when the airport was controlled by the UN. The onsite museum tells the survival stories of those who braved a journey through the narrow passages to pick up food and supplies. Visitors can venture through one section; after 42
On the drive back down south, we explore Blagaj City, the site of a pretty, powerful spring, where fresh water shoots from a cave at 330 litres per second. It’s the home of Tekija, a Muslim monastery, also known as Blagaj Tekke, or Dervish House. The three floors of the 15th-century house are stacked on top of each other and jut from the rocks right next to the gushing water source. We cover up with headscarves to go inside, where the floors are covered with Persian rugs and the ceilings are ornately decorated. In the bathroom, stars are cut into the dome-shaped roof – you can see the cliffs from below and rain can stream in from above. Blagaj is also famous for its freshwater trout, fished from waters just downstream. So we settle in on a restaurant terrace opposite as the blue water gushes past for a meal of trout stuffed with Mediterranean vegetables. True to Bosnia’s generous culinary form not one, but two of the tastiest trout I’ve ever had come out on my plate ten minutes later. It’s at this point we realise we’re all going to leave a stone heavier. Secret lair, Vjetrenica Caves Our last stop is this dark mountainside cave, which is 700m long and close to the border with Croatia. “The people who lived in here had the earliest form of air conditioning,” jokes our guide. It is a wind tunnel, and stays at 10ºC all year round. Inside, stalagmites, stalactites and other swirling, gnarled and smooth rock formations hang from the walls. We’re happily checking out the caves until our guide tells us a leopard’s skeleton was found just next to where we’re standing. Looking nervously back into the darkness, we hurry on, until we reach a calm, sheltered lake which is home to the slithery human fish – a blind amphibian named so for its fingers and pinky skin. Yick. This cave certainly isn’t somewhere I’d like to get stuck, but outside in the open air, surrounded by the towering green mountains and brilliant Herzegovinian sunshine – well, that’s a different matter entirely. ❚
The Redeemer This is Christchurch in 48 hours WORDS HUGH RADOJEV
DAY 1:xUnfortunately the bustling city of Christchurch in New Zealand's South Island has come to be associated with the terrible series of earthquakes which damaged the city in early 2011. Despite this adversary, the city of Christchurch and the region of Canterbury as a whole have rallied together, showing great strength, character and a fierce determination to repair their city and to propel it into the future. Christchurch is still here and has so much to offer travellers for weeks, let alone just a weekend. Get ready! 8:00: Arrive and drop off your stuff at your home base for the weekend – Dorset House this 145 year old villa is wonderfully equipped, but it's time to get amongst it. Have a cup of coffee and a very light breakfast (trust us) because you're going jet boating. 10:00: That's right Jet Thrils Christchurch (jetthrills. co.nz) run adrenalin fuelled half hour jet boat tours on the Waimakarri River, just 20 minutes out of the city centre. Meaning 'Cold Water' in the Maori language you'll feel the rush as the specially designed boats, spin and twirl at high speeds in barely centimetres of crystal clear water. Aren't you glad you didn't have a full-English fry up now? 12:00: Back into town and it's time for a little tour. While also being the city's major domestic bus provider Red Bus (redbus.co.nz) run guided tours of the areas of Christchurch's CBD that were worst affected by the earthquakes. Despite being a sobering experience, the tour also discusses the positive plans for the future.
13:30: Head back into town and have a quick bite to eat. If you're feeling particularly carnivorous you should go to Burgers & Beers Inc (bugersandbeerinc.co.nz) where the menu reflects the establishment's name. Think plenty of grilled animal and tall glasses of a beverage brewed from malt, hops and barley. Delicious. 15:00: Work off that lunch with some retail therapy. ReSTART: Mall (restart.org.nz), built in the wake of the earthquake which badly damaged the old Cashell Mall, has become something of a tourist hot spot. A bunch of shops, cafes and retail outlets have sprung up in the spot, housed in brightly coloured shipping containers. A truly unique shopping experience. 19:00: Dinner time and we can't recommend the Bodhi Tree (bodhitree.co.nz) enough. Another business badly damaged in the earthquake, a new premises doesn't mean the quality of the food has changed. After that cap it off with a few cocktails at Cartel, this fascinating little bar is one of the city's secret gems. Don't drink too much though, there's so much to do tomorrow. DAY 2: 9:00: After a good night’s sleep, it's up and at 'em! You're setting out on a little day trip. 12km southeast of Christchurch lies the city's port town of Lyttleton. Black Cat Cruises (blackcat.co.nz) run two hour wildlife cruises which include seabird and penguin sightings and a chance to swim with the smallest and rarest of the world's dolphins – the Hector's dolphin. As with any tours of this nature, dolphin
Coffee in a shipping container?
Hamner Springs for your mineral needs
sightings/swims cannot be guarenteed but the success rates in the last 12 months stand at about 81 per cent. I like those odds. 12:00: Back into Lyttleton and a late brunch/early lunch at Governor's Bay Hotel (governorsbayhotel.co.nz). This is one of only two hotels in the region to still be operational after the earthquake, unfortunately. This beautiful and meticulously restored building is full of delicious food and a friendly atmosphere. 13:30: Now head northwest, to the little town of Hanmer Springs and the world renowned thermal springs in the area. Treat yourself to a relaxing soak in the warm mineral waters or swim some laps in the 25 metre pool. 17:00: Head back into Christchurch and as it's your last night, why not start drinking a little early. Brew Moon (brewmoon.co.nz) is one of the city's many craft breweries producing beautiful beers from local produce. Why not take the tour and sample a few? 19:30: Chinwag (chinwag.co.nz) is open and provides delicioius food with a real Thai quality. Then it's time to get the night started with a trip to Tap House for a few delicious local and international beers. 21:00: You've probably had a few by now, so if you're feeling game head to Double Happy which has twice been voted NZ's best club. With its acclaimed mixture of different dance music genres and styles, as well as local and international DJs, this is the perfect place to finish up at.
Double your fun at Double Happy
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Fright night: zombies perform during a world record attempt at the most amount of people dancing to Michael Jackson’s Thriller in Coburg, Melbourne
How Jetstar staff could have looked after being released
JETSTAR PASSENGERS HOLD CREW HOSTAGE CHINA
Furious passengers held the crew of a Jetstar flight hostage for more than six hours after the plane was delayed. The flight, carrying Australian and Chinese nationals, was heading to Beijing from Melbourne when diverted to Shanghai. Passengers held the crew hostage at Pudong Airport, upset over the delay and concerned Jetstar would not honour their promise to put them up in hotels. The pilot managed to get some of the crew released, but he stayed to calm the passengers until alternative arrangements for their travel were made. A Jetstar spokesman said: “Our captain and crew assisted passengers in a calm and professional manner.”
NZ ON TRACK FOR 4,444,444 POPULATION NEW ZEALAND
New Zealand’s population was set to reach 4,444,444 on Nov 1. Analysts predict the citizen will be born in Auckland and could arrive at 4.44am. Kim Dunstan, a senior demographer, said: “It’s just a good opportunity when these milestones come about to think about our population and how it’s changing and how it’s likely to change in the future.” The last recurring number reached was in the Eighties, when the population reached 3,333,333. It is believed that the figures won’t reach 5,555,555 for dozens of years. And the milestone will be short-lived – with the population reaching 4,444,445 within 15 minutes, as the current growth of NZ’s
population is around 100 people a day..
FOUL-MOUTHED BIRD SEEKS NEW HOME
A parrot that turns the air blue with bad language is looking for a new home. Beaky says naughty words such as fuck, arsehole and stupid. Now the RSPCA is searching for a tolerant new owner to take care of the colourful bird. An RSPCA spokesman said: “Beaky
is an intelligent and playful bird who is a good mimic. “Unfortunately, this talent means that he picked up some rather colourful language from his previous home.” Beaky is said to enjoy the company of people but has been known to bite at first until he has formed a bond with someone. Sounds like a keeper. fridges used to store bodies as beds, would “attract the unusual” and described the dissection table as “our main suite”.
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IN NUMBERS 177
Amount, in pounds, the average drinker pays a year in beer tax in the UK, 10 times that of other European countries
Winnings, in millions of pounds, Greg Merson, 24, scooped after playing 12 hours at the World Series of Poker in the US
Hiding: snakes in a bag
SNAKES IN A PARCEL SHUT POST OFFICE
37 Shonky: the Samsung SW70SP
The age men reach the happiest time of their lives, after raising family and climbing the career ladder, says a US survey
It was the last thing clerks at a South African post office expected when they opened a mail bag. A one-metre-long white python came slithering out from an express parcel, while three smaller reptiles were found inside. The staff ran for safety as the snake fell on to the floor in the Sabie office, about 300km northeast of Johannesburg. “This was the most traumatic experience ever in the post office,” branch manager Mthobisi Duba said. The snakes were collected by the local parks board. And the receiver of the parcel was charged with the illegal transport of animals.
TOBLERONE TOPS SHONKY AWARDS
Photos: AAP; Thinkstock; Getty
Toblerone chocolate has been named and shamed with an award for claiming its 400-gram bar serves 16 when there are only 15 segments. Ticket retailers Ticketek and Ticketmaster and a four-star water-efficient washing machine were also given Shonky awards at the seventh annual event organised by consumer group Choice.” Ticketek and Ticketmaster were shamed over the AU$5 fee for buyers to print tickets at home. And the Samsung SW70SP 7kg front loader washing machine was awarded for using a shocking 224 litres of
Cost, in pounds, a threebedroom semi-detached house in a dodgy area of Middlesbrough was sold for at auction
water for a 3.5kg load of washing.
QUOTE OF THE WEEK
NEW ZOO FOR GIRAFFE As a performer it’s IS A TALL ORDER AUSTRALIA
What is it with Aussies shifting animals around? Last week we told you about the sharks, this week it’s giraffes. Ten-year-old Tanzi endured an 18-hour road trip, travelling from Melbourne to Mogo Zoo in New South Wales. The long-necked animal was happily ensconced in a tall crate with a great view of passing trees and traffic. She is leaving her parents behind but will be reunited with her little sister, Shani. “It’s a massive job,” zoo spokesman John Warriner said. “As you can imagine, a big shipment like this takes a lot longer to do. We have to stop regularly so she’s in good health and we’re looking after the welfare of her all the time.”
go-go-go-go-go then stop. And stay indoors and do nothing and almost have a minin depression Kylie Minogue sets the record straight on what life is like as a world-famous pop star
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Photoshop doth make fools of us all
Common sense was swept away with Hurricane Sandy Sandy has left some social media fiends with egg on their faces Photoshop is a wonderful thing. But in the wrong hands, it can be a bit like the dark side of the Force in Star Wars. Wookieepedia outlines mind control as one of the great powers of the Force, stating: “the weak-minded have ever been ready to obey one who wields great power.” Much like mind control in Star Wars, Photoshop has a profound effect on the masses. And the Dark Lords of Photoshop have been hard at work with the advent of Hurricane Sandy in the US. Last week social media exploded with images of unimaginable natural phenomena. But that’s just it – they’re unbelievable because they’re not real. You may have seen the photo of the huge storm cloud towering over the Statue of Liberty in New York. According to a story on Mashable entitled, 7 Fake Hurricane Sandy Photos You’re Sharing on Social Media, the photo is a “Photoshop job, combining a photo of the New York harbour with a 2004 shot taken by photographer Mike Hollingshead.” Kind of anticlimactic, right? Also, trending on Twitter was a photo of a shark swimming down a New Jersey street. Yes, another Photoshop job. It was even used during Hurricane Irene in 2011. The rise of social media means that breaking news is spread at breakneck speed, but it’s up to us to filter out what’s just plain wrong. So how do we combat this avid sharing of outrageously unrealistic photos? Well, Google has a camera button in the images tab to search for photo sources from either a URL or a file on your computer. But common sense is hopefully the first port of call for anyone questioning the legitimacy of photos. It’s easy to see a shocking photo and be the first to re-post it to friends, but it’s also easy to forget that Photoshop fiends are always looking to capitalise on your gullibility. So what’s the lesson of the story? In the words of Yoda, “The dark side clouds everything. Impossible to see the light, the future is.” Or, you know, just investigate the pictures you see before you re-post them. » Have you been guilty of sharing photo hoaxes? Email firstname.lastname@example.org
SWIFT HANDS DOES IT AGAIN “Country-pop star Taylor Swift’s latest album Red has notched up the highest first week US. sales figures in a decade,” Reuters reports. This makes her the only female singer to have seen two of her albums sell more than a million copies in the United States in one week. Her songs about love and break-ups clearly speak to a lot of people all over the world but what makes her so special? People are obsessed with her songs, but the break-up theme has to get old
a break up, “singAfter into a mic ” sometime, right? (Adele hopes not.) Well, the hilarious Will Ferrell thinks so. He posted a parody on Twitter that went, “Taylor Swift waved at a boy yesterday and he didn’t wave back... So she will have a new album coming out tomorrow.” So instead of crying into your pillow after a break-up, sing into a mic. The international fame is sure to cheer you up.
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Quade cops penalty on the chin
COOPER CONTRITE AFTER ‘TOXIC’ FINE RUGBY
The road to redemption for Quade Cooper began last week when he was slapped with a AU$40,000 fine for his five-day social media rampage against the game and the Wallabies. Cooper called the Australian side’s environment “toxic”, said he’d turn down Australian team honours and even bagged the ARU-licensed computer game. He was contrite in copping his fine from a three-member panel: “It was a very fair hearing and I am very happy with the outcome. I fell well below par of what it means to be a Wallaby.”
MESSI EUROPE’S BEST – NEXT, THE WORLD FOOTBALL
Barcelona’s Lionel Messi has won the Golden Boot for the top scorer in Europe and is hot favourite to beat Cristiano Ronaldo again for the Ballon d’Or for world player of the year. Messi paid tribute to his teammates after scoring a record 50 goals in the Spanish domestic La Liga last year, edging out Real Madrid’s Ronaldo by four goals.
PEC DELAYS SONNY V BOTHA DECKING BOXING
New Zealand heavyweight champ Sonny Bill Williams will now fight South African Francois Botha in February, after the All Black had surgery on an injured pec muscle. The fight’s promoter Thinus Strydom wished Williams a “speedy recovery” after calling off the slated November 24 date. Botha is confident of a win: “I’ll knock
And you thought Lance Armstrong was on fire winning seven Tour de France titles – Kent artist Frank Shepherd made this 30-foot effigy for Edenbridge Bonfire Society’s Guy Fawkes Night on Saturday him out with one hand behind my back.”
DAY/NIGHT TESTS NOT IN THE PINK JUST YET CRICKET
The ICC may have given the green light to day/night Test matches, which has cricket’s beancounters and broadcasters licking their lips, but players say the key component that makes the games possible – a pink ball that can be seen in day and night – isn’t ready. South African batsman Alviro Petersen said that when he played with the ball in a game for Glamorgan it wasn’t up to scratch. “I’m sure from a spectator point of view, it will be nice,” he said at the SCG ahead of the first Test. “We used a Kookaburra and a Tiflex and they never lasted.” Former Lords official Keith Bradshaw said pink balls are “ready” for Test matches..
BIG WEEK FOR ... Champion jockey Damien Oliver, who picked up a Melbourne Cup ride on heavily fancied French horse Americain after its connections sacked their rider, Frenchman Gérald Mossé. A victory on last year’s winner on Tuesday would be Oliver’s third in the Cup – the last was in 2002 on Media Puzzle four days after his older brother, Jason, died in a fall. Oliver was available for Americain after losing his Cup ride when he was accused of betting on a horse in a race in which he had another mount. “It’s just business as usual for me,” he said.
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QUOTES OF THE WEEK Ch Choosing h the best pla l player in the world should be banned. They m are two players from another planet One of 23 players could win football’s Ballon d’Or, but as Jose Mourinho says, it’s really a two-horse race – Messi v Ronaldo
Andy Murray’s in career-best form
PREVIEW ATP WORLD TOUR FINALS – LIVE EIGHT OF THE BEST IS ENOUGH What a way to wrap up a season – head-to-heads between the eight best players and doubles pairings. The line-up comes straight from the South African Airways ATP Rankings, which has Roger Federer, Novak Djokavic, Rafael Nadal, David Ferrer and Tomas Berdych in its top six and guaranteed a spot. But with injury ruling out Spaniard Nadal, Argentine Juan Martin Del Potro is now in the fray. At time of print, Jo-Wilfried Tsonga and Janko Tipsarevic were the likely two to round out the eight and vye for a possible
US$1.76m in prize money for the player who can win every round robin match and take out the final. It’s hard to go past Federer, who’s won the tournament six times in 11 attempts, showing his dominance over a decade. The doubles will be absorbing, too, with defending champions Max Mirnyi and Daniel Nestor and doubles specialists the Bryan brothers (Bob and Mike), up against at least three combinations making their first appearance at the tournament. November 5-12
THE CHAT | Bigger than Brazil
Amazing A m how things w wo work – you hurt yourself and then come to the most hilly course in the world. I basically did a Glenn McGrath Saffa golfing legend Ernie Els stepped on a tennis ball and bust his ankle but will play in Mission Hills, Hong Kong
FOOTBALL Real Madrid v Borussia Dortmund
it more than caipirinhas and bikinis combined?
UEFA Champions League group D action Tuesday 11.45am, Fox Sports 1
say this without explanation, right now, you would A Ifbeyou right – maybe not on bikinis. On average, after four
Photos: Getty Images
Two years, 13 games and AU$4m after defecting from rugby league, Israel Folau dumps AFL’s GWS Giants
What do you mean football’s bigger in Q Australia than it is in Brazil? Don’t they love
rounds of the A-League season, the average crowds of 15,460 are above the average 14,693 in Brazil’s premier league. Even when said tongue-in-cheek it’s an amazing stat. Brazil has 170 million more people than Oz and boasts world famous clubs such as Vasco de Gama, Corinthians and Sao Paulo. Oz’s crowd figures, buoyed by the messiah-like entrances of Emile Heskey for Newcastle and Alessandro Del Piero for Sydney, are 4000 off being in the world’s top 10 most attended leagues.
The T Th he passion wasn’t q qui qu u quite there. In the end, if I stayed, I felt like I would have been cheating myself
RUGBY England v Fiji The awesome autumn Tests begin Saturday, 9am, Fox Sports
MOTOGP Valencia Grand Prix Del Piero
Casey Stoner’s last race ever Saturday, 9.45pm, Eurosport 2
OZLISTINGS TRAVEL AGENTS Adventure Travel Bugs 07 3236 3266, adventuretravelbugs.com Backpackers World Travel 1800 997 325 backpackersworld.com Peter Pans Adventure Travel 1800 669 424, peterpans.com.au Travellers Contact Point 1800 647 640, travellers.com.au Tribal Adventure Travel 1800 984 484, tribaltravel.com.au YHA Travel 02 9261 111, yha.com.au
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Bottom Bits Bus Tours around Tasmania 1800 777 103, bottombits.com.au
Maxi Ragamuffin Whitsundays sailing 1800 454 777 maxiaction.com.au
Bunyip Tours Tours around Victoria 1300 286 947, bunyiptours.com
Mojosurf Sydney to Byron surfing tours 1800 113 044, mojosurf.com
Cool Dingos Fraser Island Tours 1800 072 555, cooldingotour.com
Nullarbor Traveller Tours from Adelaide and Perth 1800 816 858, the-traveller.com.au
Explore Whitsundays Whitsundays packages 1800 675 790, explorewhitsundays.com
Ocean Rafting Whitsundays tours 07 4946 6848, oceanrafting.com
Groovy Grape Getaways Tours linking Adelaide, Alice Springs & Melbourne 1800 661 177, groovygrape.com.au Heading Bush Adelaide to Alice Springs outback tours 1800 639 933, headingbush.com
Oz Experience Hop on-hop off Australia-wide tours 1300 300 028, ozexperience.com Surfcamp Sydney to Byron surfing tours 1800 888 732, surfcamp.com.au The Rock Tour Red centre tours 1800 246 345, therocktour.com.au
Wildlife Tours Tours around Victoria 1300 661 730, wildlifetours.com.au
RENTAL FIRMS Apollo Motorhomes 1800 777 779, apollocamper.com Mighty Cars and Campers (Formerly Backpacker Campervan Rentals) 1800 809 944 mightycampers.com.au Boomerang Cars 0414 882 559, boomerangcars.com.au Hippie Camper 1800 777 779, hippiecamper.com Kings Cross Car Market For buying and selling vehicles. 110 Bourke St, Woolloomooloo. 02 9358 5000, carmarket.com.au
TRANSPORT CO Greyhound Australia Buses around Australia. 13 20 30, greyhound.com.au Jetstar Airline. 131 538, jetstar.com.au Premier Transport Group Buses along the east coast. 13 34 10, premierms.com.au Qantas Airline. 13 13 13, qantas.com.au Regional Express Airline. 13 17 13, rex.com.au
Spaceships 1300 132 469, spaceshipsrentals.com.au
Spirit of Tasmania Ferries to Tasmania. 03 6336 1446, spiritoftasmania.com
Standbycars.com 1300 789 059, standbycars.com
Tiger Airways Airline. 03 9999 2888, tigerairways.com
Western Xposure WA tours 08 9414 8423, westernxposure.com.au
Travellers Auto Barn 1800 674 374, travellers-autobarn.com.au
Wilderness 4WD Adventures Top end tours 1800 808 288, wildernessadventures.com.au
Wicked Campers 1800 246 869, wickercampers.com
Redline Coaches For getting around Tasmania. 03 6336 1446, redlinecoaches.com.au
Adventure Tours Australia-wide tours 1800 068 886, adventuretours.com.au
Jump Tours Tours around Tasmania 0422 130 630, jumptours.com
Airliebeach.com Whitsundays packages 1800 677 119, airliebeach.com
Kakadu Dream Kakadu tours 1800 813 266, kakadudreams.com.au
Under Down Under Tours Tours around Tasmania 1800 064 726, underdownunder.com.au
Autopia Tours Tours around Victoria 03 9391 0261, autopiatours.com.au
Kangaroo Island Adventure Tours Adelaide to KI tours 13 13 01, kiadventuretours.com.au
Awesome Adventures Oz Whitsundays packages 1800 293 7663, awesomeoz.com
Kangaroo Island Wildlife Adventures South Australia 1800 786 386, surfandsun.com.au
Topdeck Tours covering all of Oz 1300 886 332, topdeck.travel
Virgin Australia Airline. 13 67 89, virginaustralia.com
S S O R C KINGS RKET A M R A C NT BUY, SELL & RE WE ARE HERE s "59).' 3%,,).' 2%.4).'. Good selection of Cars, Wagons, Vans & Campervans. 7$ 30%#)!,)343. Over 50 vehicles in stock with up to 50% BUY BACK. All with camping gear. s All vehicles for sale have a Government approved Roadworthy Certiﬁcate (Pink Slip) issued by ).$%0%.$%.4 -%#(!.)#3, not company employees like most car dealers. s &2%% information with tips for buying, selling and travelling. Transfer & Registration forms for all States. s &2%% Advice on Registrations, Transfers, which States are cheapest/easiest to Transfer and Register. s &2%% 12 Months Australia Wide Warranty (guaranteee) with (2 2/!$3)$% !33)34!.#% available on most vehicles.* NOT a 5000km warranty which gets you about 25% of your way around Australia. *Conditions apply
INSURANCE CE FREECALL: LL 1800 808 188 We sell the only known ‘No Excess’ 3rd Party Property Insurance available to travellers from $230* For 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 12 months. Insurance available even if you buy a car from another place and without you having to tell lies to get it.
NOW IN OUR 20TH YEAR OF
PUTTING TRAVELLERS ON THE ROAD
#534/-%23 #!.4 "% 72/.'
NOT COMING TO SYDNEY? THEN BUY AND SELL ONLINE @ www.carmarket.com.au OR CALL 02 9358 5000 52
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Base Sydney 477 Kent St. CBD. 02 9267 7718 stayatbase.com Big Hostel 212 Elizabeth St. CBD. 02 9281 6030 bighostel.com Bounce Budget Hotel 28 Chalmers St. CBD. 02 9281 2222 bouncehotel.com.au Easy Go Backpackers 752 George St. CBD. 02 9211 0505, easygobackpackers.com.au
City Resort Hostel 103-105 Palmer St. Woolloomooloo 02 9357 3333 cityresort.com.au
The Hi-Fi. Dec 7. $50.10 Mayday Parade are in Australia to promote their new debut album A Lesson in Romantics. This is pop-punk at its finest!
Sydney Central YHA 11 Rawson Place. CBD. 02 9218 9000 Sydney Harbour YHA 110 Cumberland Street. The Rocks. 02 9261 1111 yha.com.au Westend Backpackers 412 Pitt St. CBD. 1800 013 186 nomadshostels.com
Boomerang Backpackers 141 William Street, Kings Cross.02 8354 0488, boomerangbackpackers.com Dlux Hostel 30 Darlinghurst Rd, Kings Cross. 1800 236 213 dluxbudgethotel.com.au Kangaroo Bak Pak
665 South Dowling St. Surry Hills. 02 9261 1111 Avalon Beach Hostel 59 Avalon Pde, Avalon Beach. 02 9918 9709, avalonbeach.com.au Bondi YHA 63 Fletcher Street.
Tamarama. 02 9365 2088, yha.com.au
Rear 63, The Corso, Manly. 02 9977 3411 boardrider.com.au
Lamrock Lodge 19 Lamrock Ave. Bondi. 02 9130 5063, lamrocklodge.com
The Bunkhouse 35 Pine St, Manly. 1800 657 122, bunkhouse.com.au
Lochner’s Guesthouse 8 Gowrae Ave. Bondi. 02 9387 2162,
Manly Backpackers 24-28 Raglan St. Manly. 02 9977 3411 manlybackpackers.com.au
Aegean Coogee Lodge 40 Coogee Bay Rd. Coogee. 04 0817 6634, aegeancoogee.com.au
Cammeray Gardens 66 Palmer St, North Sydney. 02 9954 9371 sydneyboardinghouse.com
Coogee Beach House 171 Arden St. Coogee. 02 9665 1162, coogeebeachhouse.com
Wake Up! 509 Pitt St, CBD. 02 9288 7888, wakeup.com.au
Coogee Beachside 178 Coogee Bay Rd, Coogee. 02 9315 8511, sydneybeachside.com.au Surfside Backpackers 186 Arden Street. Coogee. 02 9315 7888, surfsidebackpackers.com.au Glebe Point YHA 262-264 Glebe Point Road. Glebe. 02 9692 8418, yha.com.au Boardrider Backpacker
SYDNEY DO Manly Surf School Manly Beach. 02 9977 6977, manlysurfschool.com Maritime Museum Darling Harbour. anmm.gov.au My Sydney Detour Unique city tours. mysydneydetour.com Oceanworld Manly West Esplanade. oceanworld.com.au
o Scan hUeTrMe OtREÒ NDO CAMPERS FROM
52 $156 AU
FOR 3 DAYS*
CARS ALSO AVAILABLE
*Van price based on a Lowball Camper, 3+ day rate, for travel 26/11/2012 – 01/12/2012. Prices correct at time of print, rates change weekly so contact our Reservations team for the best daily rate. Minimum hire applies, offer subject to availability and liability reduction cover is additional. For full terms and conditions contact Mighty Campers.
02 4925 3544, yha.com.au
Skydive the Beach Wollongong. skydivethebeach.com
Terrigal Beach YHA 9 Ocean View Dr, Terrigal. 02 4384 1919, yha.com.au
Sydney Olympic Park Darling Harbour. sydneyolympicpark.nsw.gov.au
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Powerhouse Museum Darling Harbour. powerhousemuseum.com.au
Sydney Tower and Skytour 100 Market St, CBD. sydneyskytour.com.au
Skydive Central Coast Warnervale. skydivethecentralcoast.com.au
Sydney Harbour Bridge The Rocks. bridgeclimb.com Sydney Aquarium Darling Harbour. sydneyaquarium.com.au
BYRON BAY Backpackers Holiday Village 116 Jonson St 1800 350 388, byronbaybackpackers.com.au
Sydney Wildlife World Darling Harbour. sydneywildlifeworld.com.au Taronga Zoo Mosman. zoo.nsw.gov.au
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Backpackers Inn 29 Shirley St 1800 817 696 ackpackersinnbyronbay.com.au
Waves Surf School wavessurfschool.com.au
SYDNEYMUSIC Hordern Pavillion playbillvenues.com
Byron Bay Accom 02 6680 8666, byronbayaccom.net The Arts Factory 1 Skinners Shoot Rd. 02 6685 7709, nomadshostels.com
Oxford Art Factory oxfordartfactory.com Sydney Opera House sydneyoperahouse.com
Nomads Byron Bay Lawson Lane. 1800 666 237, nomadshostels.com
The Annandale annandalehotel.com The Enmore enmoretheatre.com.au
Byron Bay YHA 7 Carlyle St. 1800 678 195, yha.com.au
The Metro metrotheatre.com.au
BLUE MTNS Blue Mountains YHA 207 Katoomba St, Katoomba. 02 4782 1416, yha.com.au
CENTRAL COAST Newcastle Beach YHA 30 Pacific St, Newcastle.
The Entrance Backpackers 2/56 The Entrance Road, The Entrance, 2261 02 4334 5005 theentrancebackpackers.com
Skydive the Beach Byron Bay Kingsford Smith Park, Ballina 1800 302 005 skydivethebeachbyronbay.com
COFFS HARB Coffs Harbour YHA 51 Collingwood St. 02 6652 6462, yha.com.au
PARKWAY DRIVE Newcastle Panthers. Dec 17. $43 Parkway Drive will embark on their most ambitious Australian tour this December to coincide with the release of their hugely anticipated fourth album, Atlas.
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BRISBANE STAY Aussie Way Backpackers 34 Cricket St. 07 3369 0711, aussiewaybackpackers.com Banana Bender Backpackers 118 Petrie Terrace. 07 3367 1157, bananabenders.com
Base Brisbane Embassy 214 Elizabeth St. 07 3166 8000, stayatbase.com Base Brisbane Central 308 Edward St. 07 3211 2433, stayatbase.com Brisbane Backpackers Resort 110 Vulture St, West End. 1800 626 452, brisbanebackpackers.com.au Brisbane City Backpackers 380 Upper Roma St 1800 062 572, citybackpackers.com Bunk Backpackers Cnr Ann & Gipps Sts, 1800 682 865, bunkbrisbane.com.au The Deck 117 Harcourt Street, New Farm. 04 3377 7061 Tinbilly Travellers Cnr George and Herschel Sts. 1800 446 646. tinbilly.com
BRISBANE DO Australia Zoo Glasshouse Mountains, Tourist Drive, Beerwah. 07 5436 2000, australiazoo.com.au Gallery of Modern Art 07 3840 7303, qag.qld.gov.au Riverlife Adventure Centre Kayaking & rock climbing. Lower River Terrace, Kangaroo Point. 07 3891 5766, riverlife.com.au
Coolangatta Kirra Beach YHA Pl, 230 Coolangatta Rd, Bilinga. 07 5536 76442, yha.com.au Coolangatta Sands Hostel Cnr Griffiths & McLean Sts, Coolangatta. 07 5536 7472, coolangattasandshostel.com.au
Islander Backpackers Resort 6 Beach Rd, Surfers Paradise. 1800 074 393, islander.com.au
XXXX Ale House Brewery tours. Cnr Black & Paten St, Milton. 07 3361 7597, xxxxalehouse.com.au
Sleeping Inn Surfers 26 Peninsular Dr, Surfers Paradise. 1800 817 832, sleepinginn.com.au
Aquarius Backpackers 44 Queen St, Surfers Paradise. 1800 22 99 55, aquariusbackpackers.com.au Backpackers in Paradise 40 Peninsula Drive, Surfers Paradise. 1800 268 621,
Pippies Beach House 22 Spectrum St. 1800 425 356, pippiesbeachhouse.com
Dreamworld Theme park. dreamworld.com.au Get Wet Surf School 07 5532 9907
Skydive Rainbow Beach 0418 218 358, skydiverainbowbeach.com
Seaworld seaworld.com.au Wet â€˜nâ€™ Wild Water World wetnwild.myfun.com.au
HERVEY BAY Aussie Woolshed 181 Torquay Rd 07 4124 0677 woolshedbackpackers.com
Warener Bros Movie World movieworld.com.au
Gold Coast International BP 28 Hamilton Ave, Surfers. 1800 816 300, goldcoastbackpackers.com.au
Story Bridge Adventure Climb 170 Main St, Kangaroo Point. 1300 254 627, storybridgeadventureclimb.com.au
Zorb 07 5547 6300
Next at Hervey Bay 10 Bideford St. 1800 102 989, nextbackpackers.com.au
SUNSHINE CST Mooloolaba Backpackers 75-77 Brisbane Rd, Mooloolaba. 1800 020 120 mooloolababackpackers.com
Surfers Paradise Backpackers Resort 2837 Gold Coast Highway, Surfers. 1800 282 800, surfersparadisebackpackers.com.au Surfers Paradise YHA Mariners Cove, 70 Seaworld Drive, Main Beach, Surfers Paradise. 07 5571 1776, yha.com.au Trekkers Backpackers 22 White St, Southport. 1800 100 004, trekkersbackpackers.com.au
Nomads Hervey Bay 408 The Esplanade. 1800 666 237, nomadshostels.com
Nomads Noosa 44 Noosa Dr, Noosa Heads. 1800 666 237, nomadshostels.com
Palace Backpackers 184 Torquay, 1800 063 168, palaceadventures.com.au
Halse Lodge YHA 2 Halse Lane, Noosa. 1800 242 567, halselodge.com.au
RAINBOW BEACH Dingos Backpacker Adventure Resort 20 Spectrum St. 1800 111126, dingosresort.com
Eurong Beach Resort 07 4120 1600, eurong.com.au Palace Adventures 184 Torquay St, Hervey Bay, 1800 063 168 palaceadventures.com.au
7/2+%23 7!.4%$ &RUIT AND 6EGETABLE PICKING JOBS AVAILABLE s 4RANSPORT TO FROM WORK s &2%% COURTESY BUS PICK UP s ,AUNDRY FACILITIES s )NTERNET FACILITIES s 0LEASANT AND FRIENDLY STAFF s "ISTRO AVAILABLE AT "ANJOS TAVERN NEXT DOOR