Protected by ancient walls and a moat, the old town and its temples are a magical delight old town, protected by ancient walls and a moat, is serene, beautiful and best visited on foot. It is packed with temples, and wandering from one to another is a near magical delight. On this trip, however, I based myself in the exceptionally laid back Chiang Rai, opting for the peace and tranquillity of the Legend, a boutique resort gently nestled on the southern banks of the hypnotic Mae Kok river. While not really able to compete with the cultural wealth of Chiang Mai, the “new city” that replaced it as a capital of the Lanna Kingdom in 1296 is actually the older of the two and boasts some notable temples of its own. The town also possesses a wonderfully temperate climate and an ambience so welcoming that it soon had me thinking of moving there permanently. Moreover, Chiang Rai also has an exceptional golf course: Santiburi.
spring 2015
I teed off early one morning with dew on the grass and with a thin white mist floating across the course like a silk sheet on a gentle breeze. Designed by Robert Trent Jones II, the club opened in 1992. It appears entirely natural with mature trees, a flowing layout, and a clubhouse sitting proudly at the apex of the property, but an enormous amount of work, cost and shaping went into Santiburi. Owned by Thailand’s most famous brewery, Singha, and despite the fact that no expense has been spared, rates to play and join the club are more than reasonable. The par 72 course features plenty of wet stuff, mainly on the flatter front nine. I was particularly taken by the hillier back nine with its sweeping views from the tees, rolling fairways and trickily positioned sand traps. Over 7,000 yards in the length, Santiburi is a true championship course, tough
but honest. Birdies are hard won and bogeys your own fault. The par-3 17th is the nominated signature hole, but I thought it was eclipsed by the testing par-5 18th, which starts with water along the left of the fairway before you cross over and approach the green with water and bunkers all along the right. Although none are quite at the professional standard of Santiburi there are a number of other courses in and around Chiang Rai. The best, in my opinion, is Waterford. Upriver some 30 miles from town, I arrived there mid morning with the place near-deserted. I was just beginning to contemplate whether I had turned up at a country junior school during summer recess rather than at a golf club when a caddy bedecked entirely in canary yellow came fluttering into view. She kindly showed me where to pay the (modest) green fee before expertly accompanying me for my round. Although an 18-hole layout, the score card shows two 9s: A and B. Driving south to Chiang Mai provides the golfer with further opportunities to play. There are over 15 courses within an hour’s drive of the city, but if I were to pick only one to experience it would have to be Chiang Mai Highlands. Situated some 40 minutes east of the city, the par 72 course winds its way along the base of the adjoining hillside and provides players with tantalising views of the dreamy mountains and steamy tropical vegetation. The Highlands is only a decade old but, in addition to the obvious quality of the facilities, what sets it apart from other courses is its inherent naturalness. It is built in an area of great spiritual heritage, which perhaps explains why the design team clearly set out to put together a course that is in close harmony with the truly exceptional surroundings. They not only succeeded in staying close to nature but they also created an exceptional golf course in an exceptional country. Visit if you can—just watch yourself on those motorbike taxis.
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