FOOD + DRINK ISSUE A MAGAZINE OF THE TAMPA BAY TIMES
JUNE 2018
DELECTABLE
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4 Bed | 3/1 Bath | 4,869 SF | Offered at $2,199,000 Mary Pond & Ed Gunning 813.690.7902 3403westsannicholasstreet.smithandassociates.com
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4 Bed | 3/1 Bath | 3,720 SF | Offered at $1,399,000 Ed Gunning & Mary Pond 813.294.8867 2907westhawthorneroad.smithandassociates.com
Starting in the $2.3M | 3,495 - 5,926 SF The Sanctuary Sales Team 813.213.0212 SanctuaryBayshore.com
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BEACH PARK WATERFRONT
4 Bed | 3/1 Bath | 3,989 SF | Offered at $1,450,000 Traci Burns 813.833.7510 2904westhawthorneroad.smithandassociates.com
5 Bed | 5/1 Bath | 5,246 SF | Offered at $2,950,000 BG Holmberg 813.220.0643 36westspanishmainstreet.smithandassociates.com
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NEW SUBURB BEAUTIFUL 5 Bed | 4/1 Bath | 3,462 SF | Offered at $1,199,000 Mary Pond & Ed Gunning 813.690.7902 2521westjettonavenue.smithandassociates.com
LAKE MAGDALENE 5 Bed | 4 Bath | 4,392 SF | Offered at $675,000 Doug & Nancy Wood - The Wood Team 813.957.3941 1803bellacasacourt.smithandassociates.com
WESTCHASE 4 Bed | 3/1 Bath | 3,731 SF | Offered at $785,000 Doug & Nancy Wood - The Wood Team 813.957.3941 12306marbleheaddrive.smithandassociates.com
HARBOUR ISLAND WATERFRONT 5 Bed | 4/1 Bath | 4,464 SF | Offered at $2,550,000 Traci Burns 813.833.7510 traciburns.smithandassociates.com
BEACH PARK 4 Bed | 3/1 Bath | 3,668 SF | Offered at $1,199,900 Ed Gunning & Mary Pond 813.294.8867 4425westculbreathavenue.smithandassociates.com
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HARBOUR ISLAND
4 Bed | 3/1 Bath | 4,027 SF | Offered at $1,225,000 Doug & Nancy Wood - The Wood Team 813.957.3941 15521lakemagdaleneboulevard.smithandassociates.com
2 Bed | 2/1 Bath | 1,626 SF | Offered at $649,500 Traci Burns 813.833.7510 450knightsrunavenue415.smithandassociates.com
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GULP COAST: FLORIDA’S LARGEST CRAFT BEER TRAIL
June July WELCOME TO THE FOOD + DRINK ISSUE
ON THE COVER
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Delicious dishes
Our critic Laura Reiley provides a guide to Tampa Bay’s best restaurants. Look for it inside Bay.
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Buffalo Style Things Cauliflower, cukes, cashews, radish, blue cheese prepared by chef Lauren Macellaro at Reading Room, St. Petersburg.
HE FOUND ANOTHER WAY TO DONORS’ HEARTS
Cover photograph by Eve Edelheit
Hint: Through their stomachs.
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KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL:
FACES: HE KNOWS WINE From Bern’s best to two-buck chuck.
What do chefs eat for breakfast?
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BEING THERE, DOING THAT
RESTAURANT TRENDS What’s on and off the menu.
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JUST BRING YOUR SPECIALTY, PLEASE Reliable stand-bys everybody knows.
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GIFTS FOR THE HOSTS Try one of these instead of wine.
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CHEF WHITES & SUMMER LOOKS Five Bay area chefs make cameos in the fashion spread.
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CATCHING OR JUST FISHING? Food critic Laura Reiley is on the hook for her own dinner.
Tampa General Hospital Foundation Alice in Wonderland, Mad about TGH American Stage Gala Under the Stars American Heart Association Tampa Bay Heart Ball Opera Tampa Opera Tampa Gala WUSF Public Media The Longest Table Moffitt Cancer Center Magnolia Ball
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TAMPA’S PREMIER SHOPPING AND DINING DESTINATION
Discover shopping, dining and nightlife on Bay Street, International Plaza’s vibrant outdoor village.
Enjoy our exciting collection of restaurants. Bar Louie - Your neighborhood bar, where you can kick back and be the real you, with the help of an amazing staff, great music, handcrafted martins and cocktails, 48 local and regional drafts, incredible wines and a huge selection of bar bites, snacks, burgers, flatbreads and sandwiches. Bay Street. 813.874.1919 Brio Tuscan Grille - The food is all simply prepared using the finest and freshest ingredients. The menu features prime steaks and chops, homemade pasta specialties and flatbreads prepared in an authentic Italian wood-burning oven. Brio’s villa-like interior features arched colonnades, hand-crafted Italian mosaics, Venetian plaster walls and marble countertops. Bay Street. 813.877.3939 California Pizza Kitchen - A casual-dining restaurant serving up California creativity through its innovative menu items. CPK provides a range of inspired dishes, from hearth-baked pizzas, to creative salads, pastas, entrees, soups and sandwiches. Lower Level, near Nordstrom. 813.353.8155 The Capital Grille - Nationally acclaimed for dry aged steaks, chops and seafood. Guests enjoy an award-winning wine list of more than 400 selections, mouth-watering appetizers and irresistible desserts. Gracious service and premier private dining. Bay Street. 813.830.9433 The Cheesecake Factory - Renowned for its signature dessert (available in 50 varieties!), this destination dining experience offers a selection of 200 delicious dishes to satisfy any appetite and please any palate – creatively concocted appetizers, entrees, sandwiches, pizzas, pastas, salads and more. Bay Street. 813.353.4200 Doc B’s Fresh Kitchen - Offering a casual and comfortable setting. They’re all about innovation, convenience with a focus on fresh, housemade, and locally minded dishes. You’re busy, but you deserve the best. Doc B’s proudly cooks for people who appreciate a great meal prepared by great people. It’s like an extension of your own kitchen. They also carry an extensive craft beer, wine and spirits selection. Bay Street. 813.498.6200
Nordstrom Bazille - Full-service restaurant with a casually sophisticated atmosphere featuring bistro cuisine and a full bar. Fresh salads, specialty entrees, signature cocktails, wine list, and house-made desserts. Level 2, Nordstrom. 813.356.7916 Ocean Prime - The Modern American Supper Club. Enjoy the freshest seafood and prime steaks, wine list and handcrafted cocktails, complete with an outdoor patio, cocktail lounge and piano bar. Serving lunch weekdays and dinner nightly. Reservations accepted. A Cameron Mitchell Restaurant. Adjacent to Crate & Barrel at West Shore and Boy Scout entrance. 813.490.5288 Pelagia Trattoria - Zagat-rated for fresh, flavorful modern Italian cuisine made with a twist, Pelagia Trattoria features seasonal menus, handmade pastas and made-from-scratch appetizers to entrees. Chef Brett Gardiner uses only the highest quality ingredients available, including locally sourced foods. Lobby level, Renaissance Tampa Hotel, just steps from Bay Street. 813.313.3235 The Pub - Inspired by classic British pubs, this gathering spot serves high quality pub fare, as well as authentic dishes from across the British Empire including Fish & Chips, Shepherd’s Pie, English Pot Roast and London Broil. Enjoy a wide range of draught, bottled and cask-conditioned beers along with a great wine list and comprehensive selection of the finest spirits available. Bay Street. 813.443.5642 Rocco’s Tacos and Tequila Bar - Offering a true taste of Mexico within a fun casual environment. Prepare for a treat, with the authentic Mexican flavors of Rocco’s Tacos. Whether you’re looking for a tasty lunch or late night fun. TAPS Restaurant & Bar - Proudly offering a ‘from scratch’ menu focusing on quality, taste and health. Enjoy over 300 of the world’s finest beers, 40 wines by the glass, and hand crafted cocktails featuring many small batch liquors. Perfect for lunch, dinner or happy hour! Bay Street. 812.463.1968
Frankie’s Lobstah Trap Raw Bar and Grill - Fresh and local clams, lobster and quahogs sit atop shaved ice in the raw bar while guests enjoy a full bar inside the restaurant located on Bay Street. LifeCafe - Offering only real, wholesome ingredients free of artificial additives, LifeCafe takes the hard work out of eating well. Eat from the menu with total confidence because, truly, if it’s at LifeCafe, it’s healthy. Life Time Athletic Tampa. 813.262.1300.
S H O P I N T E R N AT I O N A L P L A Z A . C O M
TAMPA’S PREMIER SHOPPING AND DINING DESTINATION BAR LOUIE • BRIO TUSCAN GRILLE • CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN THE CAPITAL GRILLE • THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY • DOC B’S FRESH KITCHEN FRANKIE’S LOBSTAH TRAP RAW BAR AND GRILL • LIFECAFE • NORDSTROM BAZILLE • OCEAN PRIME PELAGIA TRATTORIA • THE PUB • ROCCO’S TACOS AND TEQUILA BAR • TAPS RESTAURANT & BAR
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EDITOR Katherine Snow Smith kssmith@tampabay.com
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Pegie Stark pstark@tampabay.com
PHOTO EDITOR Patty Yablonski COPY EDITOR Peter Couture GENERAL MANAGER
Christopher Galbraith
Bay is published eight times a year by Times Publishing Co. and delivered to Tampa Bay Times subscribers in select neighborhoods in Pinellas, Hillsborough and Pasco counties. Copyright 2018. Vol. 11, No. 7. THE TAMPA BAY TIMES CHAIRMAN AND CEO Paul C. Tash MANAGING EDITOR Jennifer Orsi EXECUTIVE NEWS EDITOR/BAY Ellen E. Clarke VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES AND MARKETING ADVERTISING MANAGER
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TAMPA ADVERTISING MANAGER
Dawn Philips
National / Major Retail Advertising Manager Kelly Spamer St. Petersburg Retail Advertising Manager Andi Gordon Clearwater Retail Advertising Manager Jennifer Bonin Brandon Advertising Sales Manager Tony Del Castillo Classified Real Estate Manager Larry West Pasco Retail Manager Luby Sidoff Automotive Advertising Manager Larry West FULFILLMENT MANAGER Gerald Gifford IMAGING AND PRODUCTION Gary Zolg, Brian J. Baracani Jr., Ralph W. Morningstar, Patsy Boatright, Greg Kennicutt DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Jim Thompson REGIONAL HOME DELIVERY MANAGERS Diann Bates, David Maxam
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from the editor
ENDLESS COURSES OF CONVERSATION
Have comments, questions? Let us know. Contact Katherine Snow Smith at (727) 409-3642 or kssmith@tampabay.com.
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JUNE 2018
I’ve met a lot of new people while working on this Food and Drink issue, including five of Tampa Bay’s best chefs and a stranger who became a friend over an authentic Egyptian lunch at her home. With everyone, the conversation flowed easily because the topic was food. Not everyone can make it as well as the men and women appearing in these pages, but we can all talk about it. Everybody has opinions, questions and stories about food. I asked Cleo Ekladyous if we could photograph her stuffed grape leaves for the feature on the trusted standbys people bring when invited to a dinner party. She quickly agreed, then insisted on making a full lunch based on her native Cairo after learning that my oldest daughter is spending a semester abroad there. I wasn’t going to argue with the chief of protocol at MacDill Air Force Base, who suggested I bring a friend to share the experience. Cleo and her husband, retired Rear Admiral
Jon W. Bayless Jr., served a fabulous lunch by the water of their Tierra Verde home for my friend Elena Coundouriotis and photographer Lance Rothstein. We dined on tzatziki and bread, shish kabob, tandoori chicken and, of course, stuffed grape leaves. Cleo told us she buys grape leaves from Mazzaro’s Italian Market and usually stuffs them with pork and beef, which is the standard in Cairo. She uses risotto instead of rice — that’s how her mother taught her. Then Elena described the rice her mother used to make in Spain. It was sticky and thick. Her mother wasn’t a great cook, but the whole family loved her rice. The conversation veered to travel and work, but seemed to always come back to food. Lance talked about some of the foods he enjoyed when he was living in Rotterdam and how he loves to combine Boursin cheese and chicken when cooking at home.
After two hours, I hugged Cleo goodbye and said we’d connect again soon. A few days later, I was in Tampa meeting chefs and thanking them for taking part in our fashion shoot. Even though our area’s top chefs aren’t on television or dominating social media (yet), they still seem like celebrities to me. They are revered around Tampa Bay and have achieved success in one of the toughest businesses. So how did I nervously break the ice? Food. Noel Cruz and I talked about the numerous vegan options at his Ichicoro Ane restaurant in St. Petersburg, because it’s one of the only places my family members (which include a vegan and a picky eater) all love. It’s a great addition to downtown. Cruz’s two other restaurants are in Seminole and Tampa. I talked with Lauren Macellaro from The Reading Room about the garden next to her restaurant and how quickly organic produce grows. Had I read food critic Laura Reiley’s story on food trends, these conversations would have segued perfectly into what she’s seeing on the local and national restaurant scene. There’s a lot more healthy eating going on, including more
interest in nonalcoholic “mocktails.� As with all of her writing, this story in Bay will make you more aware of what you eat. She has another piece in this issue that’s a funny tale of fishing for her own dinner. Along with sharing what folks take to eat when they break bread at a friend’s home, our Found It coordinator Whitney Cohen offers ideas for host and hostess gifts. WhencreativedirectorPegieStarkpaintedapictureof whatsheateforbreakfasttoaddoriginalarttothisissue,that gotuswonderingwhatchefseatforbreakfast.Weaskedthe chefsfromourfashionshootandgotanarrayofmenus. Not only did five chefs add a new element to our fashion shoot, stylist Sandra Davila added some whimsy with foodinspired clothes, shoes and pocketbooks. We shot it at Armature Works, Tampa’s new public market that has 14 different places to eat and drink. There is plenty to see and read in this issue, whether you’re a great chef, a great foodie or just enjoy great conversation. Thank you for reading, — Katherine Snow Smith
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A
Food Lover’s
Paradise!
ET I TA L I A N M A R K
, N O TI A N TI ES D Y R A N LI CU E R TU A TAMPA BAY’S SIGN deverythingyou need forthe perfect meal. where you’llfin
BREAD AND PASTRY Crusty loaves of Bread hot out of the oven every day. Pastries, Cookies and Cakes all made from scratch in the old world style.
CHEESE Hundreds of Imported, Domestic
PREPARED FOODS Five chefs prepare
SPECIALTY GROCERY We carry gourmet
a variety of dishes daily – including Italian specialties, appetizers, salads and a whole lot more.
MEAT AND SEAFOOD Our full-service
butcher shop carries the finest Prime and Choice Beef, Veal, Pork, Lamb, and Poultry. All Sausage is house-made daily for freshness. A variety of fresh seafood is brought in daily from local and domestic waters, so freshness is guaranteed.
and Artisanal cheeses to choose from, with two professional cheese mongers to help you select the right cheese. ingredients and hard to find items like Truffles, Caviar, Bee Pollen, Spices, Herbs and Pastas.
COFFEE AND TEA The finest beans from
around the world are hand-selected and roasted in small batches by our Master coffee roaster. A selection of finest-quality teas, bagged and loose, is also available.
PRODUCE From Apples to Zucchini and
everything in between you’ll find what you need for the perfect meal.
WINE AND BEER Over 3,000 wines to
choose from with a focus on Italian wines. Our certified sommeliers can help you find a favorite bottle at any price. We also carry a large selection of craft beers, from popular favorites to hard-to-find limited-production beers. Let our “Certified Cicerone,” a beer sommelier, make recommendations.
CHARCUTERIE Prosciutto, Porchetta,
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Breakfast, oil on cavas. Pegie Stark.
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JUNE 2018
The art of
BREAKFAST BY KATHERINE SNOW SMITH
M
onday through Friday, breakfast often is gobbled down as the school bus heads up the street, eaten at a desk amid computers and coworkers — or skipped altogether. But on the weekends, it turns into a meal
that’s lovingly prepared and consumed with ease and pleasure. So what does someone with a vast knowledge and passion for food put on their table on Sunday morning? Several local chefs were asked what they like to make, not for the masses at their restaurants, but for friends and family at home. LAUREN MACELLARO
NATE HARDIN
A HASH BROWN AND SOFT SCRAMBLED EGG SANDWICH My partner and I have that with a seasonal fruit salad. (Trader Joe’s frozen hash browns are her go-to.)
CHOCOLATE CHIP PANCAKES A fat stack of chocolate chip pancakes, with a cold rub of butter slowly melting over the top. I’d definitely use brown butter in the pancake batter, because butter is best served brown. The chips must be semi burnt on the bottom, so they are crispy and magical.
Reading Room, St. Petersburg
NOEL CRUZ
Ichicoro Ramen, Seminole Heights Ichicoro Imoto, Armature Works, Tampa Ichicoro Ane, St. Petersburg ARROZ CALDO A traditional rice porridge dish called Arroz Caldo or another version is called Lugaw. Super savory perfumed with ginger and garlic. For breakfast I like to top it with chicken, fried egg, toasted garlic, scallions, lemon, fish sauce and chilis.
JEFFREY JEW
Stillwaters Tavern, St. Petersburg Bella Brava, St. Petersburg The perfect breakfast for me is European style. SMOKED FISH (SALMON) WITH ALL THE ACCOUTREMENTS: hard-boiled eggs, salad greens, fresh fruit and mixed nuts — almonds, cashews and sunflower seeds— with a nice, crusty bread.
Steelbach, Armature Works, Tampa
BREAKFAST TACOS There must be a savory component as well, otherwise we’re just eating dessert to start our day. Ever since going to Austin City Limits a year or so ago, I’m infatuated with breakfast tacos. Fresh chorizo rendered down until nice and crispy. I’ll save the fat to cook the eggs and tortillas. Eggs will be scrambled, flour tortillas will be slightly crisp on one side and uncooked on the inside so they are soft and warm. The eggs are piled on first, then the chorizo, followed by grilled corn, pickled red onions, cilantro and queso fresco. If we’re feeling real frisky, I’ll make a chipotle lime crema.
B.T. NGUYEN
Restaurant BT, Tampa Bistro BT, Tampa BT To Go, Tampa For friends and family, I make three dishes so everyone can have a little bit of everything. SEAFOOD OMELET A seafood omelet with Maine lobster sous vide, gulf prawns, sea scallops, caramelized leeks, roasted sweet pepper, shiitake mushrooms, sundried tomato and goat cheese, finished with fresh chives and basil from my garden. A CLEANSING CREPE A cleansing crepe with diced apple, raisins, mixed berries, grapes, organic yogurt, sunflower seeds, cinnamon, Tibetan goji berries and fig compote, finished with local honey drizzles and Meyer lemon zest. SALMON AND BRIE House-cured King salmon and brie cheese on a toasted croissant, micro citrus-mixed greens, heirloom tomato and horseradish aioli.
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WHAT’SON (ANDOFF) THEMENU BY LAURA REILEY TIMES FOOD CRITIC
The amateur prognosticators weigh in on Jan. 1. Really, the best predictions come in June: You’re halfway through the year, how wrong could you be? You’ve had a six-month runway to get your wheels up and soar confidently into the future. Herewith are my top eight predictions for what the Tampa Bay food scene has in store.
FAKE MEAT
Impossible Burgers have started showing up in area restaurants, and Beyond Meat patties are available in some grocery stores. These are not bean burgers, nor grain burgers, but scientifically engineered plant-based proteins that required millions of dollars of tech-food start-up money. Heme (pronounced HEEM), an iron-containing compound, is responsible for giving these new products their essential meatiness. The target market? Maybe not vegans (most vegans aren’t looking for a non-meat burger that bleeds just like the real thing), but the rest of us who may choose to eschew red meat a couple days a week for health or environmental reasons. In a similar vein, tofu, tempeh, quinoa and other plantbased proteins have gone mainstream in many restaurant kitchens.
POT FOOD
This doesn’t mean crock pot, or one-pot meals. With 29 states legalizing medical marijuana and eight states with legal recreational marijuana, stay tuned for a tidal wave of foods augmented with THC and CDB, properties found in marijuana. You’ll find it in beef jerky to snack bars. And some high-end chefs around the country are putting on marijuana and food pairings and cannabis-infused tasting menus. Maybe not around the corner in Florida, but if medical marijuana advocate Joe Redner has his way ...
THE NEXT SRIRACHA
Some folks are still stunned at the speed with which sriracha (you know, the chile sauce with the rooster on the label) has gone mainstream, in many contexts nudging out ketchup at the table. It is predicted that the Korean chile paste gochujang is spreading with similar speed through restaurant kitchens, but for home chefs I’m forecasting a tube of harissa in the refrigerator has just as many last-second pick-me-up applications, from a quick chicken rub to an aioli razzle-dazzle.
NO-WASTE MOVEMENT
Tampa Bay chefs embraced the snout-totail cooking movement, then the trash fish movement (celebrating bycatch and lesserknown seafood species). The trend is clearly toward using the whole animal and minimizing waste. Consumers are getting into the swing of things, requesting lesser-known cuts of meat (move over, ribeye and New York strip, it’s time for the bavette, the merlot cut and the Vegas strip steak to shine), and chefs have turned their attentions to “root-to-stem” cooking, finding ways to use a whole plant (don’t toss those carrot tops, honest).
LESS FUSION CONFUSION
We are at the end of the era of Asian fusion restaurants that execute a mashup of Thai, Japanese and Chinese. Diners are increasingly sophisticated, demanding greater verisimilitude and even more specificity: Look for the rise of things like regional Chinese (hey, it’s a big country) and regional Mexican.
Photographs by Shutterstock
JUNE 2018
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STRAW WARS
We’ve already seen it, a brewing brouhaha about drinking straws. This is the year consumers really start to consider the consequences of all that plastic that ends up in landfills, or worse, in our oceans and the bellies of sea creatures. Not far off will be a serious reexamination of plastic cutlery, Styrofoam to-go containers, singleuse grocery bags and bottled water. Ask any millennial: Reusable stainless steel straws and water bottles are the accessory of choice.
GUT-FRIENDLY FOODS
Americans have been late to the probiotic game — we were scared of the sound of live cultures, weren’t big advocates of all things fermented. The gut biome has captured our attention, and with it all the things we can do to encourage the good microorganisms and discourage the bad. Look for more kimchi, kefir, miso, sauerkraut, kombucha, apple-cider vinegar and tempeh. It’s all in the name of seeking out things like lactobacillus acidophilus, streptococcus thermophilus, saccharomyces boulardii and a whole lot of unpronounceables to improve digestion and strengthen your immune system.
BE GONE, BOOZE
Sophisticated mixers (housemade tinctures and tonics, fresh juices, artisanal teas, botanical mixes, etc.) have been employed in the growing repertoire of craft cocktails. Mixologists and consumers have begun to think about using those same building blocks in non-alcoholic “mocktails,” part of a more health-conscious approach to quaffables. (Oh, but spiked seltzer is another trend — 3 Daughters Brewing just started canning theirs.)
Photographs by Shutterstock
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JUNE 2018
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What can I bring? BY KATHERINE SNOW SMITH AND AMY SCHERZER
It’s the question guests ask when invited to someone’s house for dinner as well as the name of a cookbook by Mississippi caterer Elizabeth Heiskell. Some, however, don’t have to ask because it’s a given they will bring their signature dish. (In fact, it’s so good that’s why they were invited in the first place.) Feast your eyes and appetite on some of the standbys gracing tables at Tampa Bay gatherings.
I’ve become incredibly protective of it. It’s part of my heritage. Let’s say it was a piece of jewelry or a string of pearls. You don’t just give that away. I’m more emotionally attached to it than anybody I would give it to.” VELVA HERATY
St. Petersburg resident Velva Heraty’s great-grandmother immigrated from Ireland with a hand-written family recipe for soda bread pinned inside her bra. As a young girl, Heraty typed the recipe onto this card, which is now several decades old. “I’ve become incredibly protective of it,” she says of the recipe. “It’s part of my heritage.” Photograph by Dirk Shadd
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One recipe’s journey VELVA HERATY WhenayoungBridgetteHobanfinallycompleted atumultuouscrossingoftheAtlantictoimmigrateto Americainthe1850s,shewas15poundslighterthan whensheleftIreland. HercousinDeidretookherin,andBridgetteproudly producedapaperthathadbeenpinnedinsideherdress forweeks. It was a recipe for Lace Curtain Irish Soda Bread that she snuck from the church rectory in County Mayo, where she was a housekeeper. At least, that’s according to family lore. “She was accused of stealing it after she got over here. Somebody tasted it and said, ‘That’s Father Flannagin’s recipe’ or whatever his name was,” explained Velva Heraty, Bridgette’s great-granddaughter. “They recognized the bread that was served at the rectory. The Irish are very competitive and very gossipy.” Heraty, who lives in St. Petersburg but grew up in Chicago, has known the story of the soda bread since she was a child. At 7, she saw to it that the recipe continued to thrive. “My father brought home a typewriter when I was 7 or 8, a little Olivetti. I was playing with it one day and my mom was complaining about not being to read the recipe,” she recalled. “So I offered to type it up for her. That’s the recipe card I have now. It has to be at least 50 years old.”
She’s not sure what happened to the original that was pinned inside Bridgette’s dress, but by the time she copied it onto the recipe card, it was yellowed and the words — written in pencil — were faded. Soda bread in Ireland was commonly made for “lads and lassies,” Heraty explained, for a dense, hearty food in lunch pails at school. Lace Curtain Soda Bread meant more expensive ingredients were in play: butter instead of lard, buttermilk instead of regular milk. It was named after the Irish custom of hanging lace curtains to show status. Likemostlong-lovedrecipes,thisonehasevolvedover thegenerations.Heraty’sgrandmotheraddedbrown raisins.Hermotheraddedgoldenraisins.Sheaddeddried cranberries. Beyond that, Heraty doesn’t reveal the recipe. “I’ve become incredibly protective of it. It’s part of my heritage,” she said. “Let’s say it was a piece of jewelry or a string of pearls. You don’t just give that away. I’m more emotionally attached to it than anybody I would give it to.” Well, what about this photo in Bay magazine? “If somebody can take that picture and read the card,” Heraty laughed, “then God bless them.” Katherine Snow Smith
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Documented deliciousness BOB DEVIN JONES
Bob Devin Jones serves his blueberry and walnut coffee cake. The blueberries are his modification of the recipe that’s from LaBelle Cuisine, by Patti LaBelle. Photographs by Scott Keeler
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If Bob Devin Jones’ word alone isn’t enough to make you believe he’s known for his blueberry and walnut coffee cake, then the notes jotted on the well-worn pages of his LaBelle Cuisine cookbook are added proof. “Every time I make this, I write the date and who it’s for,” he explained as he documented a coffee cake for Bay magazine on April 27. “It’s also to note what time it goes in the oven because, if not, then I’m trying to remember later ‘was it 2:30 or 2:35?’” On Aug. 7, 2011, it went in at 8:22 a.m. for Diane Bailey Morton. On March 2, 2014, at 8:43 a.m. for Astrid, Dave, Mariam, Andy, Mark, Howard and Sandra. On Easter 2015 at 9:45 a.m. for Derek and Karen and other lucky friends. The scribbling has spread to subsequent pages over the years. Jones, artistic director for Studio@620 in St. Petersburg, is already known around town for selling his homemade Bobs Cookies (no apostrophe) at the Saturday Morning Market. Closer friends know him for the coffee cake. The recipe is from singer Patti LaBelle’s cookbook, but Jones has put his own spin on it. “Instead of a full cup of sour cream I use a half a cup and a half of cup a buttermilk,” he said. He also adds blueberries. “Everything I learned about cooking, I learned from my mother who never used a cookbook,” Jones said. He usually flips the cake right in front of guests so they get to enjoy the natural steam heat that makes it so moist. “If you get it just right,” he said, “you need a napkin to dot the tears.” Katherine Snow Smith
Sharp and sharable MARY ANNA MURPHY The recipe for Mary Anna Murphy’s pimento cheese came from her sister in Uvalde, Texas. The town of 16,500 sits at the intersection of the two longest roads in the United States: Highway 90, which runs from Jacksonville to Los Angeles, and Highway 83, which goes from Mexico to Canada. Murphy grew up there, so it’s fitting that her signature dish has plenty of Texas kick along with smalltown shareability. She adds the special ingredient, smoked hot-pimento powder “to give it an edge.” “I grate the cheese (extra-sharp cheddar) in the food processor,” said Murphy, who lives in St. Petersburg but designs exhibits for museums and other educational facilities around the country. “I save about a third of it out before I mix in the pimentos and mayonnaise (Hellmann’s). Then I add that back in at the end so it’s got some texture. Some people will do all of it in the food processor and then it’s too creamy.” Murphy hands over her spicy, golden creation when she arrives at a dinner party and tells the host or hostess they can share with guests or keep it for later. Pimento cheese is great melted on toast the morning after. Katherine Snow Smith
Mary Anna Murphy takes a traditional Southern favorite, pimento cheese, and spices it up. Photographs by Scott Keeler
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This marriage’s motto: Mangia! JOE CAPITANO Ybor City native Joe Capitano Sr. cooks linguine and clams with broccoli the Sicilian way — with love and tradition. And improvisation. “Go ahead, add mussels and tomatoes,” says Gilda, his wife and teammate in the kitchen for 59 years this month. And, if you dare, cheese. “On seafood? Now that’s an absolute mortal sin in Italy,” she says, laughing, before adding a generous sprinkle of Pecorino Romano. The parents of six and grandparents of 11 — lucky for them, all Tampa residents — never lack for family around the dinner table. “Onlynowtheywantustobringittotheirhouses,” Joesays.The president of Radiant Group oil marketers, Joe is revered for far more than his cooking. His support of L’Unione Italiana— the Italian Club — restored the 100-year-old mutual-aid, social, cultural and education center, making him, literally, a Renaissance man. The Capitano family put hundreds of hours — and dollars — into the historic building, replacing windows, doors and roofing, and installing air conditioning and an elevator. More recently, Joe’s dedication to preserving Italian culture was frying and sugaring 80 pounds of Pignolata honey balls for the annual Festa Italiana celebration. “Now that’s a labor of love,” he says. Amy Scherzer
Joe Capitano with his family recipe for linguine and clams with broccoli at his Tampa home. Photographs by Monica Herndon
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A lot of this and a lot of that
SANDY FREEDMAN
Sandy Freedman, former mayor of Tampa, at home with her recipe for marinated shrimp. At left, Freedman’s cookbook Specialties of the House. Photographs by Monica Herndon
Two-term Tampa mayor Sandy Freedman’s family-famous marinated shrimp wins the popular vote by a landslide. “It’s just a great summer dish ... a bit messy for hors d’oeuvres but beautiful on a bed of lettuce for lunch or with steamed asparagus and a pasta salad for dinner. “It’s pretty and portable, you just have to keep it cold,” said the first woman elected to run Tampa (1987-95). Freedman’s grocery list of accomplishments include completing the Tampa Convention Center, opening the Florida Aquarium, launching citywide recycling and staging Tampa’s first march against hate crime. Clients of her husband, attorney Michael Freedman, get credit for inspiring her version of the marinade 50 years ago. “They served something similar at a party,” she recalled. “I came home and messed around trying to recreate it. Lots of sweet onions, lots of garlic. I think mine is actually better.” These days, Freedman’s forum is the kitchen and her campaign is winning over three adult children and eight grandchildren, ages 9 to 25, with her cooking. Like governing, the prep work must be done in advance, so the shrimp can marinate for two to three days. “And it keeps for up to a week,” said Freedman, 74, “although there’s never any left.” Amy Scherzer
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Tried and true
Rhonda Sanderford with bread pudding and deviled eggs — her go-to dishes. Photographs by Scott Keeler
RHONDA SANDERFORD
Sanderford makes her bread pudding with a coconut-rum sauce.
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Rhoda Sanderford has two signature foods. She always takes deviled eggs to dinner parties and brings bread pudding to open houses for fellow real-estate agents. She and business partner Marian Yon Maguire usually host a so-called “brokers open” several times a month. “IstartedtakingbreadpuddingandthenwhenIdidn’thaveit,ifIhadsomethingelse,peoplewould askmewherewasthebreadpudding,”sherecountedfromherkitchennearSt.PeteBeach.“Whenyou servesomethingpeoplelike,theycome,andtheycomebackandtheytelltheirfriendstocome.” As for the deviled eggs? In her native Savannah, Tenn., they were a simple staple. Something moms fed children. But over the years, deviled eggs became a gourmet item served at fine restaurants in New York, L.A. and, of course, Tampa Bay. Sanderford has three favorite variations: traditional, with pickle relish, jalapeno and pimento. She’s always on the lookout for pretty egg platters, whether round or elongated. “When I go to a party, I tell the hostess the dish is hers to keep,” she said. “The worst thing is having to hunt down people after a party to return the dishes.” Katherine Snow Smith
Crowd-pleasing protocol CLEO EKLADYOUS In Tampa, where Cleo Ekladyous is chief of protocol at MacDill Air Force Base and in Tierra Verde, where she lives, she’s known for bringing stuffed grape leaves to share with friends. But in her native Egypt, she would never take them to a dinner party. “Oh nooooo,” Ekladyous said. “In Arab homes it’s improper to bring something like this. You would insult the chef.” A dessert is appreciated, but that’s all. She moved from Cairo to Dearborn, Mich., when she was 7. Her mother, who was a pharmacist, got a degree in engineering at Wayne State University and landed a job with Chevrolet. “She designed the T-tops for all the Corvettes. She always drove a red T-top,” Ekladyous recalled. Along with helping to create the iconic sports car, her mother taught her how to make stuffed grape leaves. They include a combination of pork and beef, mint, dill and risotto, instead of rice, which most people use. In her homeland, a lot of foods are stuffed, not just grape leaves. “We stuff everything. Squash, cabbage, eggplant,” Ekladyous laughed. “We’ll stuff you if you let us.” Katherine Snow Smith
Cleo Ekladyous loves to share the stuffed grape leaves that her mother taught her how to make. The secret? Risotto instead of rice. Photographs by Lance Rothstein
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Almost as good as Mom’s DALLAS COFFIELD Lemon tea sandwiches, that’s what everyone hopes Dallas Coffield will bring to church gatherings. They’re filled with a mixture of lemon juice, eggs, sugar, cream cheese and pecans. “My mother made something similar when I was growing up,” he said. “You need a whole loaf of white bread — that’s about as Southern as it gets.” Coffield, managing principal of Keller Willams Realty Tampa Central, grew up in the Florida Panhandle but spent plenty of time with his maternal grandparents in Tampa. “Meemaw cooked Southern and Spanish, some of the best fried chicken and great paella. I loved sitting in the kitchen and watching her cook,” he recalled. Later, he would roost in the kitchen of his ATO fraternity house at the University of Mississippi while the cooks prepared dinner. And as a Mise en Place waiter for three years at the South Tampa restaurant, he absorbed even more kitchen lessons. “What I like about these petite finger sandwiches is that you make them in advance and stick them in the fridge until just before serving,” he said. “They always remind me that I’m a Southern gentleman.” Amy Scherzer
Dallas Coffield with a plate of his homemade lemon tea sandwiches at his home in Tampa. Photograph by Monica Herndon
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Sotheby’s International Realty® and the Sotheby’s International Realty logo are registered service marks used with permission. Each office is independently owned and operated. Equal Housing Opportunity. Property information herein is derived from various sources including, but not limited to, county records and multiple listing services, and may include approximations. All information is deemed accurate. *Marine View With a Sunset by Claude Monet.
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Thanks for the
invite BY PETER COUTURE PHOTOGRAPHS BY EVE EDELHEIT COORDINATION BY WHITNEY COHEN
Youjustreceivedadinnerpartyinvitation.Afterconsultingyour calendarandpossiblyyoursignificantother,thenextquestion confrontingyouis:WhatshouldIbring?Yourgracioushost oftenisofnohelp:“Justbringyourself!Youdon’tneedtobring anything.” Well,youdo.Andbecausewe’veallbeenthere,here aresomeimaginativeideasforgifts—manyofthemhandcrafted —thatbypassusualgo-tossuchasthatmoderatelypricedbottle ofwine.Someoftheseitemsareeclecticandevenwhimsical,but allarepractical.Andwecanguaranteethatyourhostwillhave themoutwhenyouvisitagain.
Proclaim your city love with country flair through this jute wine bag, $17; seashell bathroom and bedroom nightlights bring the beach into the home, $28. Juxtapose Apparel and Studio, Sundial, St. Petersburg and Hyde Park Village, Tampa.
Everyone needs a nook for keys, coins and those little things that clog pockets and purses. Color Dunes’ canvas hex valet trays have a nautical theme and come in assorted colors; $24 small, $45 large. Texture, 1029 Central Ave., St. Petersburg.
Acacia serving ware is handcrafted from a single piece of hardwood in Hawaii. Olive tray, $15; salad bowl, $56; serving spoons, $18. Bring even more of the natural world inside with a granite flower vase, $30. Petal and Vine Garden Shop and Market, 596 Indian Rocks Road, Belleair Bluffs.
Raise the art of gifting through the gift of art with an individual hand-painted canvas, $35 small, $55 medium, $75 large. Flameless candles are perfect for dinner parties. Plus, they have remote controls and come in three sizes, $125, $63, $44 set of two. Laura Katz Home, 566 N Indian Rocks Road, Belleair Bluffs.
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Left: The ceramic deviled egg plate with serving fork seems made for passing around a table, $28. Bamboozle and etc., 105 8th Ave., St. Pete Beach. Succulents designed to fill antique serving pieces can brighten a room no matter where you hang them, $18 each. Lemon Tree, 596 N Indian Rocks Road, Belleair Bluffs. Above: Food + Art cookbook is an exquisitely photographed work that might give your host dinner ideas, $35. Museum of Fine Arts, 255 Beach Drive NE, St. Petersburg.
A galvanized tin appetizer tray lets bottles do double duty, $28, while a wooden bowl, $48, with matching serving spoons, $28, dresses up any salad. Pair with a wicker basket of cocktail napkins, $14. Bamboozle and etc., 105 8th Ave., St. Pete Beach.
Proudly pour your local pride into area code old-fashioned glassware, $15; shot glass, $6. Zip code and South Tampa hand towels, $15. Hazel + Dot, 3714 Henderson Blvd., Tampa.
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155 Bayview Drive, Belleair
This spectacular 5/4/2 estate, designed in the style of luxury homes in the Hamptons, sits on a high bluff overlooking Clearwater Harbor. A Pebble Tec salt water pool and spa highlight the sprawling back yard.The spacious great room provides a gas fireplace and wet bar. The kitchen offers two islands and chef’s appliances. The master retreat includes a sitting room with domed ceiling and lavish bath. Magnificent design elements, handsome cabinetry and trim add top-notch amenities that complete this unique custom home. www.155BayviewDrive.com Offered at $6,950,000
429 Saint Andrews Drive, Belleair
This gated Belleview Island 4 bedroom, 7.5 bath waterfront home boasts sprawling luxurious interiors and lavish custom features. The superb master suite features his and her baths. The study boasts custom built-ins and a bonus hobby room. Outstanding outdoor amenities include a new dock with lifts, heated pool and spa and a “Pool House” with outdoor kitchen and bath. www.429SaintAndrewsDrive.com Offered at $3,550,000
Over Half a Billion Sold So Far! We consistently sell a home every 2.3 days ~ yours could be next. The Thorn Collection | 1-877-MT-SELLS (1-877-687-3557) | www.TheThornCollection.com © 2017 Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. All Rights Reserved. Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Each Office is Independently Owned and Operated. Coldwell Banker, the Coldwell Banker Logo, Coldwell Banker Global Luxury and the Coldwell Banker Global Luxury logo are service marks registered or pending registration owned by Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC.
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Black jumper, $321. Gold tassel shoes, $110. Braided-tassel necklace, $80. Jaguar earrings, $223. All from Boho Hunter, Tampa.
FEAST + FASHION BY KATHERINE SNOW SMITH PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRIS URSO
Five of Tampa Bay’s top chefs stepped out of the kitchen and into the camera’s lens for the fashion spread in Bay’s Food & Drink issue. It was shot at the Heights Public Market, a 22,000-square-foot collection of restaurants in a restored warehouse known as Armature Works. Sitting just north of downtown Tampa along the Hillsborough River in historic Tampa Heights, it’s old and a bit gritty as well as sleek and modern. BT Nguyen, a longtime leader in Tampa Bay’s dining scene, poses in the Armature courtyard with our model. The reflection gives the illusion of two chefs. There are probably times when Nguyen wishes there was more than one of her to oversee all the highly successful restaurants she has opened. And yes, she is as cool as she looks.
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cclaimed chef Lauren Macellaro is luring foodies from all around Tampa Bay to a little place called the Reading Room at the west end of Central Avenue in St. Petersburg. It’s fitting that she joins our model, who’s wearing a shirt that reads “Always Fresh.” While the garden next to Macellaro’s restaurant doesn’t grow donuts, it offers a bounty of vegetables that make a short trip to the kitchen and diners’ plates. The pineapples on the dress to the left look fresh, too. It’s made by local designer Odalys Marino, who sells her custom creations at Nory’s Design Boutique in Tampa. She makes clothing for women and children and counts celebrities as clients. Our model poses in a frame of succulents that’s become a popular backdrop on social media for devotees of Armature Works.
At left, pink-and-yellow ruffle pineapple dress, $250. Nory’s Design Boutique, Tampa. Yellow dangle earrings, $145. Boho Hunter, Tampa. At right, blue jeans, $180. Always Fresh Donut Pullover, $218. Paris Isabella, Pinellas Park. Multi-cork sandals, $180. J9 Shoe Salon, St. Petersburg.
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W
hile many of the restaurants at Armature Works serve a variety of drinks, Fine & Dandy is the main bar. Our model helps bartender Solomon Sohn stock the shelves and, perhaps, inspires him to create a craft cocktail with some apple accents.
Red apple dress, $250. Nory’s Design Boutique, Tampa. Adam’s Apple red pumps, $600. J9 Shoe Salon, St. Petersburg.
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oel Cruz and Nate Hardin are our featured guests with restaurants at Armature Works. For the much lauded Cruz, it’s Ichicoro Imoto, one of three Cruz hot spots where sharing plates of Asian-influenced cuisine can’t come to the table fast enough for excited diners. Hardin is the chef at Steelbach, the only sit-down restaurant at the food hall. He’s getting great reviews for focusing on interesting cuts and cooking techniques at the chophouse, which has its own herd of Wagyu cattle naturally raised in Kenansville, south of Kissimmee. All of the animal is cooked and consumed at Steelback or its sister restaurant Boca in an effort to reduce the carbon footprint. (Food critic Laura Reiley highlights this growing trend in the restaurant industry on Page 24.) More than a half-century before Hardin sat at this window, a street car conductor was stationed there directing traffic on and off the tracks. Before Armature Works was a heavy machinery warehouse, it was the headquarters for Tampa Electric’s street-car system. The company’s safe is now Steelbach’s wine cellar.
At left, black silk pants, $310. Red ruffle top, $166. Cream fringe and red earrings, $95. Straw basket with red handle, $210. All from Boho Hunter, Tampa. Multi-cork sandals, $180. J9 Shoe Salon, St. Petersburg. At right, off-white wide-leg pants, $174. Off-white bow top, $334. Blue fringe yoyo bag, $229. All from Boho Hunter, Tampa. Watermelon pink sliders, $100. J9 Shoe Salon, St. Petersburg.
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t’s rare that former Top Chef contestant Jeffrey Jew sits back and relaxes. The chef at BellaBrava and Stillwaters Tavern on St. Petersburg’s bustling Beach Drive always has plenty on his plate. On the day of the shoot, he discussed scouting sites for two new restaurants in Tampa — as well as an upcoming trip to Italy for research on cuisine.
Midi drawing dress, $250. Black sunglasses, $45. Nory’s Design Boutique, Tampa. Yellow pumps, $600. J9 Shoe Salon, St. Petersburg.
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his is not a to-go box from Armature Works, but it wouldn’t be surprising if one of our chefs created a beautiful multipurpose vessel in the future. Can you envision it? A stylish, reusable doggy bag. Insulated at the base for uneaten morsels of lamb or curried cauliflower while the top holds lipstick and a credit card.
STORES REPRESENTED: Boho Hunter 1625 W Snow Ave., Tampa Nory’s Design Boutique 4023 W Waters Ave., Tampa (All clothing made by local designer Odalys Marino) Paris Isabella 4930 Park Blvd., Pinellas Park J9 Shoe Salon 212 2nd St. N, St. Petersburg
FASHION STYLIST: Sandra Davila MAKEUP AND HAIR: Monique McLaughlin MODEL: Valerie Orca PHOTOGRAPHED AT: ARMATURE WORKS 1910 N Ola Ave. Tampa armatureworks.com
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Blue tassel bag, $165. Boho Hunter, Tampa.
Why we’re quitting Plastic. Recently, our restaurants ended a long relationship with plastic. And we’re relieved. This simple and convenient product we knew wasn’t good for our community. But we couldn’t stop. Plastic has undoubtedly made our lives more convenient. But at what cost? Our family has been involved in the community of Clearwater Beach for over seventy years. We welcome all of you to join us in saving our beautiful beach. We plan to be around for least another seventy years. Sincerely, The Heilman Family
727-442-4144
447 Mandalay Ave. x Clearwater Beach, FL bobheilmans.com
From the boat to your plate.
Fresh Florida Shrimp
Fresh Florida F F Grouper G
Fresh O F Oyster Casino C Raw Oysters also Available
Fresh Sea F S Scallops S Dinner D
Award-Winning Seafood since1972 Stone Crab & Seafood
From the freshest grouper and Gulf seafood, Billy’s Stone Crab in Tierra Verde is an Old Florida Seafood House. Built of native cypress and pine, the waterfront restaurant has been serving Tampa Bay’s finest seafood, crab, steaks and fresh fish since 1972.
Great Food, Great Sunsets!
VOTED #1
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1 Collany Road • Tierra Verde • 727-866-2115 • www.billysstonecrab.com
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Congratulations Shorecrest Grads! 73 Graduates will attend 47 colleges in 19 different states + DC, Canada, and the UK; 14,167 Service Hours; 10 Recognized by National Merit Program; 3 NCAA Signings; 2 Presidential Scholars Semi-finalists; $5.7 Million in Scholarships*
To the Shorecrest grads, and all of the Tampa Bay Area students in the Class of 2018, congratulations! Meet the Class of 2018 at www.shorecrest.org/2018
*as of May 10, 2018.
HOOK TO
TABLE
BY LAURA REILEY, TIMES FOOD CRITIC PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRIS URSO
G
oingfishingislike doingyourtaxes. If it’s something you dive into just once a year, you end up relearning the whole thing every time. Jake Whitfield eyed me, no judgement, and decided to cast for me the first time, my little wriggling greenbackzingingwayoutintotheflatsnotthat far from the Courtney Campbell Causeway. He handed me the rod and I started slowly reeling, visions of ginormous redfish and snook inmyhead. Not long into the trip we reeled in a beauty, a silvery snook with pale yellow fins and a dark lateral line arched like a painted-on eyebrow. Alas, only 22 inches (keepers are 28 to 33 inches). The next one was just shy, 27 inches, and then we hooked a huge one, one that set my jaws and cramped my thumb a bit from reeling. Before I could get him in the boat, that sandpaper mouth frayed the line and he slipped away.
At left, Capt. Jay Plastic throws bait fish during a hook-to-table fishing charter. Food critic Laura Reiley, above, examines a snook that was too small as Capt. Jake Whitfield watches.
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Honeymoon, bachelor party or just an oh-so-Florida vacation experience, it’s a beaut.
Plastic holds a snook while Whitfield fillets a sea trout below. Guides clean the fish and put it on ice.
By this point I was doing my own casting, nothing too pretty, as I listened to Whitfield and fellow guide Jay Plastic talk about this new venture. The Godfrey Hotel & Cabanas Tampa has partnered with Top 5 Fishing Charters for what they are calling a hook-to-table experience. Guests go out, fish for four hours, and bring their catch back to the hotel’s restaurant. Maybe bartender Danny Franco will shake up a sly spin on a classic cocktail like a Scofflaw or a Mai Tai, and then executive chef Joe Garcia, executive sous chef Sean Champe and their team will consult with you about your fish: How do you feel about sea trout tacos? What’s your thought on pan-searing with a mango pear salsa? And then it’s chow time. Honeymoon, bachelor party or just an oh-so-Florida vacation experience, it’s a beaut (but not cheap: it starts
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at $600 for up to four boaters, plus a dining room charge of $14.95 per person). Capt. Frankie Diaz of Inshore Rush Fishing Charters was staying at the Godfrey and thought, “Hmm, this looks like something we could do.” Banding together with Whitfield (who runs Florida Outdoor Adventures), Plastic (Stealth Fishing Charters), Tim Whitfield (Swift Fish Charters), Justin Lofaro (All American Charters) and Wes Burns (Gulfside Fishing Charters), Diaz met with the Godfrey’s chef Garcia and worked out the details. It can be for lunch or dinner, can be combined with an eco or sunset tour, and guests can embark from the 3,200square-foot pier at the Godfrey, or, if the weather’s a little choppy, from the boat ramp at the Courtney Campbell. Guides clean the fish and stick it on ice for guests to bring back to the hotel restaurant. But back to me and my snook. My casts got better. I got in the groove. Nonetheless, redfish eluded me (Plastic, who has been a guide for 12 years, says it’s been a pretty paltry year for redfish) and snook taunted, fighting me, dipping under the 22-foot Pathfinder only to wriggle off the
hook with my baitfish in tow. Was I mad? Nah, there’s still nothing better than spending a four hours on the water on a glorious Tampa Bay spring day. Of course, for Whitfield and Plastic, the day started at dawn with a 10- to 12-foot cast net collecting 300 to 400 baitfish. One charter trip in the morning (they were either luckier or more skilled and brought in loads of keepers), then awobblyjournalistintheafternoon. Trips run through 6 or more gallons of gas, they need new rods and reels every year or so, there’s marketing, motor servicing, insurance, truck payments and all that chum. Whew, a lot of work, but for Whitfield, Plastic and the rest of the Top 5 Fishing Charters team, it still means they’ve escapedthegrindand“gonefishing.” Fishless but happy, I depended upon the beneficence of that day’s earlier charter: Luscious trout tacos, then a snapper dish with citrus vinaigrette and crisp-tender broccolini. And I knew better than to bore anyone with my “one-that-got away” stories.
At The Godfrey Hotel & Cabanas Tampa, the WTR Pool & Grill bartender prepares a drink. Despite her dismal luck on the water, Laura Reiley enjoyed sea trout tacos and pan-seared snapper served with mango pear salsa over broccolini.
To book, call (813) 609-8675 or visit FishingCharters.guide/tampa
JUNE 2018
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HELPING thehomeless HELP themselves BY AMY SCHERZER
Giveamanafish,andyoufeedhimforaday.Teachamantofish,andyoufeedhimfor alifetime.Nowteachhimtoscaleandsautethatfishandwatchhimfeedthewholevillage. ChefCliffBarsimakesthatproverbtrueeverydaywiththeblessingofexperienceandan abundanceofcreativity.Christianfaithcommittedtheself-taughtchefto“usemypasttogive peopleafuture.”Hiscalling:Acookingschoolwithaspiritualprogramandhousing. “Because youcan’tfocusonyourstudiesifyoudon’tknowwhereyou’regoingtosleeptonightorgetyour nextmeal,”Barsisaid.ThesearchfortherightlocationledtoMetropolitanMinistries,the downtownTampashelterofferingpoorandhomelessfamiliesfood,jobtrainingandhousing assistancesincetheearly1970s.
(and feed the rest of us)
Two of the first six residents still work for me today,� Barsi said. Enrollment has since tripled, with almost all of the 175 graduates finding employment within 45 days.
Cliff Barsi at the Inside the Box location at the Armature Works food hall in Tampa. Barsi is the chef behind Inside the Box and Dough Nation. Photograph by Monica Herndon
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“CEO Tim Marks and I made a deal,” Barsi said. “I would fix his kitchen and he’d help me start a school. I did mine in 90 days; it took him 3 1/2 years to do his part.” Barsi bided his time as executive chef overseeing 3,000 meals a day in four counties — at the shelter and at 30-plus partner sites. At last, the school project moved onto the front burner in 2012 when Barsi entered a social-enterprise competition. His business plan for Inside the Box Catering — box lunches made and delivered by shelter residents to nearby offices — won a $25,000 grant. “We fed the judges lunch,” Barsi joked, then seriously noted the plan “aimed for executives, a niche of potential donors.” Catering sales reached $200,000 in the first year. The next year, Barsi welcomed the first students to the 16-week ITB Culinary Arts Program, teaching basic to advanced techniques along with hundreds of hours of high-volume production at the shelter and restaurants. Funding is provided by JPMorgan so there is no cost for the students. “Two of the first six residents still work for me today,” Barsi said. Enrollment has since tripled, with almost all of the 175 graduates finding employment within 45 days. “You don’t have to have a passion for cooking; it doesn’t have to be a career,” Barsi, 55, tells his classes, “but you can always get a job. “And there’s no better way to get a girl than to cook them dinner,” said the married father of two sons, whose eldest is an executive chef in Washington, D.C. Barsi’s kitchen confidence arose when he was working banquets and met Culinary Institute of America students interning at Innisbrook Resort. A car accident had detoured Barsi’s college plans, but the interactions with the CIA students inspired him. He began entering — and winning — cooking competitions. “The cool thing about cooking is the instant feedback,” said Barsi. At 19, he started supplying meals to private planes, launching Red Baron Catering in his parents’ Clearwater garage. “We served 800 private aircraft during the two Super Bowls played in Tampa,” he said. Barsi came of age in the food and hospitality business, including managing the Alessi’s Farmers Market in Carrollwood; running Bella’s Italian restaurants at two Tampa locations, creating a dessert line for Joffrey’s Coffee & Tea Co., and developing protein shakes and bars for a sports-nutrition business. In 2013, restaurateur Bob Basham expanded Metropolitan Ministries’ outreach when he offered free use of a downtown Tampa storefront. Inside the Box could now
Store manager Michael Calliham of Tampa, serves Melissa Gerrity her cookie dough at Dough Nation. Photograph by Octavio Jones
sell healthy Grab & Gourmet sandwiches, salads and snacks on the busy Tampa Street. Basham’s idea for edible cookie dough sent Barsi to the kitchen to test recipes made with a special, heat-treated flour. The result, Dough Nation, Divine Cookie Dough & Ice Cream, took over the storefront so successfully last year that Barsi’s newest endeavor is wholesaling and franchising the brand. Additional enterprise and training keep coming. ITB supplies food to several newsstands at Tampa International Airport and a self-serve cafe in the Tampa Bay Times building in downtown Tampa. For the newest outlet, a rent-free space at Armature Works food hall, Barsi knew he had to kick things up a notch. “We smoke our own meat — turkey, lamb, pork loin, New York strip steak, salmon,” he said. “Our salmon spread with siracha, capers and onions is better than any New York deli.” In May, Barsi moved the culinary school into the Show + Tell space in the Heights Public Market at Armature Works to increase visibility and proximity to jobs at the 14 dining spots. “Overall, our social enterprise has created 60 jobs, many of them filled by former Metropolitan Ministries residents or culinary students,” said Barsi. He projects revenue of $4 million this year. And the grateful chef is just beginning. “Now we take what we’ve learned,” he said, “and share it with other nonprofits.”
CENTURY 21 – The #1 InternationalBrandinRealEstate –offices –off ffic ff ices iin ic n 78 count countries ntri ries ri
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Located in a highly desired boati community rests this 5 bedroom, 3 ½ bath, 4405 total sqft waterfront home with wide open intracoastal waterviews and the beautiful skyline of downtown Clearwater. Massive great room with towering 18ft ceilings opens to a stunning pool deck overlooking the waterfront. Offered for $1,550,000.
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Located on beautiful open water, this gorgeous 4 Bedroom 3 Bath 4130 total sqft residence offers luxurious finishes and a fine, spacious everyday living appeal. Lush landscaping, alluring cherry floors, sumptuous chef’s kitchen and an inspiring master suite. Wonderful covered pool deck complements superb boat dock configuration. Offered for $1,349,000.
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Belleview Island – Belleair
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Spectacular ectacular 18,670Total 18,670 Total Sqft Palatial diterranean Estate on impressively Mediterranean aped grounds delivers breathtaking views of the Gulf of Mexico. landscaped hs 10+ Car Garage, this one-of-a-kind original offers 5 Bedrooms 6.2 Baths, a stunning French Riviera interpretation of a timeless classic. Magnificent k with dual boat lifts. 6,000 sqft pool/spa deck with gazebo and pergola. Dock Luxurious and so much to see! Offered for $4,199,000.
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Located in an exclusive gated oasis overlooking Clearwater’s beautiful intracoastal waterway, this magnificent palatial waterfront estate is one of Tampa Bay’s finest. Spectacular ceilings, scintillating marble floors, regal columns, custom inlaid woodwork, elegant crystal chandeliers and impressive flying staircase adorn this stunning 5 bedroom, 5.5 bath 12,389sqft (under roof) home. Offered for $4,395,000.
Harbor View Drive – Dunedin
A MASSIVE LUXURY ESTATE WITH STUNNING OPEN WATER VIEWS!T owering designer ceilings and astounding marble/granite finishes adorn this colossal 6 bedroom home with 5 ½ lavishly finished baths and 12,242 sqft under roof. Elegant formal areas, exquisitely themed spaces, dual master suites, dual kitchens, spectacular 14-seat theater, 200 sqft observation deck, dazzling travertine pool/spa deck with 10ft waterfall & integrated gas firepit. Offered for $2,999,000.
Bath Club Estates – North Redington Beach
This exceptional 4 bedroom 4 ½ bath coastal contemporary luxury estate with a huge 12,050 total sqft under roof offers an unforgettable island ambiance. Stunning gourmet kitchen, beautiful wide covered balconies, remarkable master wing and a superb pool/spa. Wide 135ft seawall supports a deep water dock, dual boat lifts and separate floating dock. Offered for $2,899,000.
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© Belleview Place, LLC 2014
Your Fabulous, New Lifestyle Awaits I
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magine yourself in a place like no other. Where, just a short walk to the Belleair Country Club and iconic Belleview Inn, an unparalleled social life awaits. Exclusive, maintenance-free living in an elegant two-story townhome residence that boasts a private elevator, two-car garage, and all the spaciousness of a single-family home — without any of the work. All within a prestigious gated community set atop a majestic 35-foot bluff, so no flood insurance is required. Visit our new Carriage Home “C” model to get a new perspective on luxury living. Call 727-469-7070 to arrange a tour today.
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faces Michael Rugers, the former wine director at Bern’s Steak House, at Bern’s Fine Wines & Spirits in Tampa.
A well-poured career P
BY AMY SCHERZER PHOTOGRAPH BY LUIS SANTANA
our a glass of Two Buck Chuck or Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Michael Rugers won’t judge you. But he has judged hundreds of wines during his 30 years in the industry, including a decade as the first wine director at Bern’s Steak House, where he maintained the worldrenowned wine cellar and helped create the holy grail of restaurant wine lists. Over the past dozen years, as a fine-wine specialist for the largest U.S. wholesaler, Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits, Rugers, 73, has helped private collectors stock their cellars and appraised wines for insurance policies. “I’ve advised people who spend $1 million a year on wine,” Rugers said. “I have been to every wine-growing region in the world.” Rugers’ career ripened slowly, after years as a Washington, D.C., police officer, a U.S.
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government investigator and the owner of a New Jersey radio station. After selling a television station license he partly owned, Rugers took eight years to travel extensively, learn voraciously and sip wine consummately. Florida ultimately became home so Rugers could golf all year round, but he still spends his summers in Europe. “Paris is my favorite city and Burgundy is my favorite region,” he said. The South Tampa resident has hosted wine dinners, seminars and judged varietals, from California to Chile to Australia to, yep, the Florida State Fair. The nose knows. “About 85 percent of what you taste is in your olfactory glands,” Rugers explained. “I can usually tell by smelling a wine if I will like it.”
A lot of people are too snobbish about wine. We call them ‘cork dorks.’ They want to pontificate. It’s a beverage, folks. It’s meant to be consumed.” MICHAEL RUGERS
Have you always been a wine connoisseur, training your palette all your life? I’ve done many things in my life but didn’t even drink wine until I was 40 years old. I was moving out of Washington, D.C., and they were having a party for me, so I thought I should bring a bottle of wine. I bought Chateau Margaux 1977. The guy seated next to me brought the same thing but a 1978. The difference was phenomenal. How did you meet Tampa’s legendary restaurateur, Bern Laxer? I had a lot of free time and started learning. I went to all the wine-tastings I could, visited France and dined at Bern’s. He and I became friendly and would sit in his office and talk about wine till 2 a.m. He would ask me, “Why don’t you help me with the wine?” and I would say, “I’m retired.” After a year or so of being offered to manage the world’s biggest wine cellar, (it) was too intriguing to say no. So I came to work as the wine director in 1991. Bern was the most unique man I ever met. He made it on guts and willingness to take chances. I can’t speak highly enough of him, although in many ways, his son David may be a better businessman.
Where have you worked besides Bern’s? I left Bern’s around 1998 to work for LeRoy Adventures as corporate wine and spirits director at Tavern on the Green in Central Park, which was the highest-grossing restaurant in Manhattan at the time. Warner LeRoy was the son of Mervyn LeRoy who produced The Wizard of Oz and the grandson of Harry Warner, one of the founders of Warner Bros. What a character LeRoy was — the exact opposite of Bern Laxer. One day he called and asked me to bring a Gaja Barolo over to his apartment. When I got there, he was having lunch with Kurt Vonnegut and Christie Brinkley and invited me join them. Can you explain the difference between a wine director and a sommelier? A wine director is very rare, you have to have a huge program to warrant that. A director does the purchasing, trains the servers, updates the restaurant’s wine lists. The sommelier works the floor making suggestions, serving, pouring. … In 1997 Wine Enthusiast magazine named me the best sommelier in the United States even though I wasn’t a sommelier.
As the wine market has exploded, especially the high-end luxury brands you promote, more people like to consider themselves experts. Yet, you say you’ve become more reticent to offer opinions? Why? I don’t like talking about what a wine tastes like. Everyone tastes differently. If you like it, that’s all that’s important. My best friend loves this wine that’s $9 a bottle. How can somebody tell you your taste is wrong? Some wines sell really well and the quality doesn’t warrant the price. I like to imbibe in wine that represents good value. Americans tend to follow what’s in style because we are a new culture when it comes to enjoying wine. A lot of people are too snobbish about wine. We call them “cork dorks.” They want to pontificate. It’s a beverage, folks. It’s meant to be consumed.
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Belleair & The Beaches 727.581.9411 | Central Brandon 813.662.1610 | Clearwater 727.442.4111 | Clearwater Beach 727.443.3320 | Downtown St. Petersburg 727.821.3322 Island Estates 727.447.0040 | New Tampa 813.977.3500 | North Tampa 813.962.0631 | Palm Harbor 727.781.3700 | South Tampa 813.253.2444 St. Pete Beach 727.360.6927 | St. Petersburg Central 727.381.2345 | St. Petersburg Northeast 727.822.9111 | Tampa Westshore 813.286.6563 *Based on closed sales volume information from MarketQuest for all Florida counties for homes sold for $1 million or more as reported on Jan. 19, 2018 for the period of Jan. 1-Dec. 31, 2017, calculated by multiplying the number of buyer and/or seller sides by sales price. Source data is deemed reliable but not guaranteed. The property information herein is derived from various sources that may include, but not be limited to, county records and the Multiple Listing Service, and it may include approximations. Although the information is believed to be accurate, it is not warranted and you should not rely upon it without personal verification. Real estate agents affiliated with Coldwell Banker Coldwell Banker Residential Real Estate are independent contractor agents and are not employees of the Company. ©2018 Coldwell Banker Residential Real Estate. All Rights Reserved. Coldwell Banker Residential Real Estate fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Owned by a subsidiary of NRT LLC. Coldwell Banker, the Coldwell Banker logo, Coldwell Banker Global Luxury and the Coldwell Banker Global Luxury logo are registered service marks owned by Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. 333370FL_4/18
being there, doing that Tampa General Hospital Foundation Alice in Wonderland, Mad About TGH Cheshire Cats, Mad Hatters and more than a few Queens of Heart frolicked at Alice in Wonderland, Mad About TGH, the 21st annual Tampa General Hospital Foundation Gala benefit for the hospital’s Children’s Medical Center and the Fund for the Future. Even the Bay Kings Band dressed for the playful theme at the Marriott Waterside.
Co-chairs Tammy King and Tom Bernasek.
Co-chairs Laura and Joe Williams.
Honorary chairs Patsy and Gene McNichols
Queen of Hearts McIver Berner, left, and Nancy DeWaart.
Standing, Brittain Pinckney and Jodi Jacolow; seated Elizabeth Frazier, Patty Jurinski and Penny Vinik.
John and Dianne Couris, and Dr. John Sinott. Photographs by Amy Scherzer
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HIGH QUALITY BEST PRICES
Customer
Satisfaction
Since 1955, Ward’s Seafood Market has been providing locals and visitors with the freshest fish in town. Our specialty is fresh Florida seafood that is caught and delivered daily by local fisherman we have known for years. We also receive daily shipments of your favorite seafoods from around the world. Our experienced staff will custom cut any whole fish to your specifications. They will gladly prepare, explain how to store and provide cooking suggestions for any seafood selection. Ward’s Seafood Market Takeout Eatery has a set menu or will prepare your seafood selection while you wait.
FAMI LY OW SERV ING C NED AND LEAR OPERAT WATE ED R, FL FOR O VER
62 YR S
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COOKED SEAFOOD Take-Out Eatery • You Pick It, We Cook It Heat & Serve • Specialty Salads Gourmet Hot Soups • Custom Catering
1001 BELLEAIR ROAD | CLEARWATER, FLORIDA 33756 (800) 556-3761 | (727) 581-2640 | FAX (727) 518-8731 Visit www.WardsSeafood.com RETAIL STORE HOURS: Mon-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 10am-5pm • TAKEOUT EATERY HOURS: Tues-Sat 10am-7pm • NATIONWIDE SHIPPING
being there, doing that American Stage Gala Under the Stars Patrons at American Stage’s opening-night fundraiser and premiere of The Producers might as well have been watching the musical on Broadway. The acting, costumes, sets, choreography and direction were the same caliber. But if they’d been in New York, there wouldn’t have been a strong breeze blowing off the bay or the occasional small plane flying overhead in a starry sky toward Albert Whitted Airport.
Alyssa Roti, Matt Walker and Dino Pyatt.
Walker Willis and his father, Bob Willis.
Dressed up as a big-time producer and flanked by actresses, Hal Freedman, chairman of the Gala Under the Stars fundraiser for American Stage, displays a collection of lottery tickets, which were one of the live-auction items.
Dermot Tatlow, Indira Lakshmanan and Sally Willis.
Cathy Swanson, Mary Frances Peredy and Gretchen Letterman.
Cynthia Samaha and Cristina Meeham. Photographs by Katherine Snow Smith
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An Exceptional Trio Best Dining Any Time of Day”
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being there, doing that Tampa Bay Heart Ball American Heart Association Five-time heart-attack survivor and former Vice President Dick Cheney joined a Q&A session at the 60th anniversary Tampa Bay Heart Ball hosted by the American Heart Association. After dinner, State Sen. Aaron Bean auctioned 10 exceptional experiences and co-chairs Ken and Jenny Jones and Todd and Karen Wanek watched as the gala raised $2.5 million for cardiac research. Paul and Rose Reilly will chair the Tampa Bay Heart Ball 2019.
Heart Ball co-chairs Jenny and Ken Jones and Todd and Karen Wanek.
Patrick and Veronique Dussault and Nina and Trey Traviesa.
Bill and Joanne Edwards.
Former Vice President Dick Cheney, left, Dr. Debbie Rinde-Hoffman, Kathleen Shanahan and former Ambassador Mel Sembler.
Photographs by Amy Scherzer
Nancy and Robert Watkins.
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TRADE TIRED
for inspired
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Prepare to be amazed at Palm Court, rated #1 on Trip Advisor.
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Stay and play where culinary sensations come in waves. Dig into delicious mid-week rates and value-packed packages at JustLetGo.com/Foodies or call 888.266.1232.
Create the perfect s’more around the beach campfire.
being there, doing that Opera Tampa Opera Tampa Gala Mezzo-soprano superstar Denyce Graves was delighted to receive the Anton Coppola Excellence in the Arts award at the Opera Tampa Gala. The honor is presented to those who love the art form as much as the 101-year-old maestro himself. Many patrons dressed as a character from a favorite opera for the formal “fete on the set” of Verdi’s Macbeth at the Straz Center for the Performing Arts.
Keith and Judith Maurer.
Cookie Simmons and Charles Simmons congratulate mezzo-soprano Denyce Graves, center.
Zena Lansky dressed as Lady Macbeth and Warren Rodgers came as Rigoletto.
Ernie Lisi and Straz Center president/CEO Judi Lisi, whose hair style models La Tosca. Larry Harris, David Graves and Todd Wickner wore kilts.
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Photographs by Amy Scherzer
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being there, doing that WUSF Public Media The Longest Table At 500 feet, this year’s Longest Table really was the longest table yet for the annual WUSF fundraiser. That’s 200 feet longer than last year. More than 1,100 supporters of the radio station ate dinner at the table stretching between the Museum of Fine Arts and Vinoy Renaissance Resort & Golf Club along Bayshore Drive NE in St. Petersburg.
Robert Mata, Lara Day and Sandy Bolestra.
Diners raise their glasses for a cheers toast before the event begins. Bruce Terri and Ashley Thunderlowe.
Bobbi Lee Rhodes and Lisa Hill. Photographs by Jorden Pompey
St. Petersburg Mayor Rick Kriseman listens to a guest at his table.
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being there, doing that Magnolia Ball Moffitt Cancer Center Moffitt Cancer Center and generous supporters went surfin’ for a cure with a private Beach Boys concert at the 25th annual Magnolia Ball. Co-chairs Pam and Les Muma chose one of the most successful bands of all times to rock Tampa’s most successful fundraiser. The $1,500-ticket bash at the Marriott Waterside added $2.5 million to the $40 million previously raised for cancer research and treatment.
There were some Good Vibrations for a good cause at the annual Magnolia Ball.
Les and Pam Muma.
Magnolia Ball founder Marty Couch and husband Ted.
From left: Barb and Army Gen. Tony Thomas, Master Sgt. Art Enriquez and Col. Cary Harbaugh.
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Moffitt Cancer Center director and executive vice president Tom Sellers, left, Barb Sellers and former Olympic skater/Moffitt national board advisor Scott Hamilton
Moffitt Cancer Center Foundation board president Bill Brand, left, and Chis Nolte.
Marsha Droste, Melanie Reader and Sandi Sullivan.
Photographs by Amy Scherzer
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calendar FEBRUARY
MARCH
APRIL
MAY
JUNE
JULY
AUGUST
SEPTEMBER
6.21
OCTOBER
NOVEMBER
DECEMBER
JANUARY
8.18
MARTINIS FOR MOFFITT: Benefitting Moffitt Cancer Center’s Advanced Prostate Cancer Collaboration and Moffitt’s Adolescent and Young Adult Program. 7 p.m. Straz Center, 1010 N Macinnes Place, Tampa. $150, Tickets and information: bayareaadvisors.org/martinis-for-moffitt
MOUSQUERADE: Benefitting The Kind Mouse, which feeds needy children in Pinellas County. Pasadena Yacht Club, 6300 Pasadena Point Blvd. S, Gulfport. 6:30 p.m. Tickets are $75 through July 18, $85 July 19 to Aug. 15. thekindmouse.org
8.5
GOURMET FEASTIVAL: Benefitting the Helen Gordon Davis CentreforWomen.ArmatureWorks,1910OlaAve.,Tampa. 5p.m.VIPreception,$75;6p.m.generaladmission,$50. Earlybird general admission $25 until July 13. thecentre.org/workshops-events/gourmet-feastival
RAYS ON THE RUNWAY: Annual fundraiser hosted by the wives of the Tampa Bay Rays for the Children’s Dream Fund. The night combines fashion and baseball with players, spouses and kids who benefit from the Dream Fund walking the runway. 6:30 p.m. Hilton St. Petersburg Bayfront, 333 First St. SE, St. Petersburg. General admission, $125. Reserved seating, $250. childrensdreamfund.org/event/rays-on-the-runway
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next time COMING AUGUST 12
LOCALADVENTURES
The next issue of Bay will pay tribute to the home team. Not the beloved Rays, Bucs, Lightning or Rowdies, but some of the wonderful places to visit in our own back yard. The issue will feature icons everyone treasures, from historic hotels to beautiful beaches. It also will highlight outings and destinations that aren’t so well known. There’s a giraffe ranch that offers safari tours of exotic animals living on almost 50 acres. Guests can view them from fourwheel-drive vehicles, on a camel’s back or from a Segway. Readers will be introduced to St. Petersburg’s Warehouse Arts District, where more than 100 artists create and show their work in renovated spaces. These and plenty more local spots will be highlighted in our Destination Tampa Bay issue, coming Aug. 12.
— Katherine Snow Smith
An adventurous — or relaxing — getaway can be as close as our own Tampa Bay back yard. This view is at The Don CeSar in St. Pete Beach. Photograph by Lara Cerri
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