Aussies and Kiwis late breakfast enjoying the mountain views across Lake Wakatipu from our room and from our breakfast table. Observing the clouds across the lake this morning made it easy to understand why the early Polynesian settlers first referred to New Zealand as Aotearoa, translated to mean Land of the Long White Cloud. In the early afternoon we walked down the hill to the commercialized waterfront of Queenstown, where we boarded yet another boat. This time it was the 101-yearold coal-fired steamer called TSS Earnslaw. During the hour-long cruise we enjoyed the fresh air, lakeside mountain scenery, and a visit to the engine room, where we could watch the twin fireboxes get stoked with coal, watch the huge piston rods thrust in and out and watch the exposed cam shaft raise and lower the valves. OSHA would have a stroke! But it was refreshing to see an operation that was being managed safely within the realm of common sense and not encumbered by over-the-top, unreasonable safety restraints. At the north end of the lake we disembarked for an exploration of the Walter Peak High Country Farm. Red deer, alpaca, several variety of sheep, Scottish Highland Cattle ~ we petted them, we fed them, we photographed our-
TSS Earnslaw. selves with them. King, a friendly black and white sheep dog, seemed proud to entertain us by running up the hill, into the woods and, after a few minutes, returning with half a dozen adult sheep. Demonstrations in sheep shearing and wool spinning completed our farm experience. Halfway through the farm stay, we were invited to the patio of the farmhouse for tea and crumpets. By chance, we settled at an umbrella table where we met a couple from Lewes, Delaware. Back aboard the steamboat, we gathered around the piano and sang American folk songs all the way back across the lake. A leisurely stroll through downtown Queenstown, a bite to eat and it was time to climb the hill back to the St. Moritz. Tomorrow we f ly to Rotorua. Tuesday, February 19: The second f light of the morning was aboard a twin-engine propeller plane. The f light path took us north across the South Island of New Zealand, passing over the gulf that
184