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FOOD & DRINK
THE WEST END NEWS | MAY 2020
THE PORTLAND PALATE
Dining Out: Musings during a Pandemic Review and Photos by James Fereira We are living in frightening and uncertain times. While there is little consensus on much of anything else, at least on this it seems we can all agree. It is remarkable to me how intensely a virus can disrupt an entire system.The spotlight has revealed what a beautiful and broken world we live in: the displays of love and kindness, the heroes and the hacks, the turpitude of human nature and the extent of our divide—and connectedness. We are seeing it played-out daily in a continuous procession of overlapping events. In the coronavirus vortex, we feel and live its consequence unabatedly. We have battened down the hatches as best we can, not knowing what the storm will bring in the next day or the next hour.
are being forced to adjust. To not be able or willing to adapt would mean certain collapse… And so, we are challenged to rethink matters from literally soup to nuts. Enter the upsurge of delivery, take-out, and curbside pick-up praxis. Will this be the new normal? For now, it is. And it has not been easy.
For food writers, our approach has also been turned on its head. By example, take a well-lauded local influencer, Andrew Ross. As Dine Out critic for the Portland Press Herald/Maine Sunday Telegram, Ross recently, from tutelage by this pandemic, resolved to switch-up his writing angle. In his wisdom, he decided it was in our colHARDSHIP & ADAPTATION lective best interest to forego critique of restaurants in this aptly stamped “brittle One clear vulnerability has been, and economic environment.” Instead, he is focontinues to be, the impact of COVID-19 cusing on his personal experiences within on our tourism, hospitality, and restaurant the culinary scene. sectors. There is great creativity coming In following suit, this review is difout of this, as evidenced by the morphing ferent than every other I have previousof practices in how Americans dine out, or ly written. While I am not pillorying the more accurately—dine in. virtues of any one place, I am also not For now, gone are the days of calling appraising the product in any depth. I am or clicking for a restaurant reservation, or humbly showing my appreciation for the making an impromptu stop-by for lunch. privilege of still being able to enjoy good In the food world, as in nearly every other local food, albeit consuming it in an adappart of society, customers and businesses tive manner.
KITCHENS MATRESSES LAUNDRY REFRIGERATION
Drunken Noodle with beef from Mi Sen with Stewart’s key lime soda enjoyed at the gazebo on the grounds of the Reiche Community School.
MI SEN
OTTO PIZZA
My trifecta of meals began with delivery via www.GrubHub.com from Mi Sen. Friend Alex and I took our stash and dashed over to sit at the gazebo at Reiche Elementary School on a warm-enough day to sit outside. Honoring physical-distancing rules, we nevertheless enjoyed our bounty over social time: for him a chicken and vegetable Pad Thai and for me the Drunken Noodles with beef and veggies—each two stars spice right on the money.
My final outing was again enjoyed al fresco. Back to the Reiche School, but this time with friend Deb for Otto Pizza delivery. The friendly delivery man was a little early and, understandably, seemed happy to be working. We attacked (my favorite) Otto pizza: a large butternut squash, cranberry and ricotta.
Our food came with plastic utensils and serviettes, in recyclable containers, and in total for food, delivery, taxes, and tip it came to under $32.00. Mi Sen always serves up delicious, healthy meals. We appreciate them and the nice delivery guy In a short time, it completely disapwho brought it… and arrived early. peared from view. Including taxes, delivery fee, and gratuity, again via GrubHub, our FIGGY’S order came to just over $37.00. Next up was the afternoon my “Franned” and I met at Figgy’s for preordered take-out. A 2019 “Chopped” champion, Natalie DiBenedetto keeps hours from 3 to 8 p.m., Tuesday to Saturday, and she often runs out of items on the later side—so order early. We met chef Figgy when she steppedout to take a stretch and put some sunshine on her face, while we occupied a provided picnic table outside.
CLOSING THOUGHTS Such is the state of affairs in Portland’s dining-out scene, with more adjustments to follow. It is reassuring to visit www.PortlandFoodMap.com to see the regular postings on the long list of places that have changed their modus operandi and their offerings. Communally, we will get through this: I suspect with deeper connection, appreciation, and prudence. In the meantime, support your local eateries and other food purveyors. When you can no longer stand one more Saturday night frank and beans dinner… order delivery or take-out.
Fran had a half order of the skillet fried chicken, with biscuit and pint of buttermilk Maine mashed potatoes. For me, it was the half order of Korean wings, cup Live large, be generous, and go gently of mashed, and a pint of the soup du jour: a carrot, curry, and sweet potato. Includ- out there. All our lives literally depend on ed was both a side of coleslaw and some it. pickled vegetables. James Fereira has a background in At just over $42.00 inclusive, Fran grant-writing, sea kayaking, and volunteerkept left-overs to take home for later. I de- ism. In his spare time, he enjoys singing to voured mine on the spot. Everything came his cat and questioning authority. James in compostable and recyclable containers. can be reached at ThePortlandPalate@ gmail.com. We love Figgy’s!
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