food! fashion ! unleash this season’s monochromes in delectable style
PENN COURSE REVIEW
fnar 284/684-401: photography and fashion
DOES THE DEVIL WEAR PRADA? L I F E O F A FA S H I O N I N T E R N S P O K E N WA R D R O B E
MEET THE EXCELANO PROJECT
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Brilliantly Affordable Beauty
HAIR | SKIN | NAILS | All services provided by supervised students. | Chestnut Street at 40th | www.JeanMadelineInstitutes.com
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Jocelyn Teece Editor-in-Chief
Shayna Monahemi Creative Director Lauren Rothberg Editorial Director
Erica Sachse Style Director Josy Blair, Maegan Cadet, Sabreena Jackson, Mandi Liu, Elonia McHenry, Alex Moritz, Robyn Rappaport, Alexis Richards, Alee Schwartz, Quinn Werner Stylists Chloe Heckman Beauty Director
Alaina Urbahns Fashion Editor Melissa Schall Features Editor Sabrina Shyn Copy Editor
Ayasha Guerin Photography Director Alex Remnick, Erica Sachse, Max Wang Photographers
ART AND DESIGN
Emily Sherbany Art Director Jacqueline Lem Assistant Art Director Melanie Appleby, Emma Baiada, Josy Blair, Kayla Fuchs, Grace Guan, Monika Haebich, Natalia Juncadella, Margot Konig, Tiffany Lu, Irene Manousiouthakis, Paula Mello Ferber, Alison Nadel, Daniella Sakhai, Tina Xie, Cindy Yuan Layout Team
Monta Ozolina Operations Coordinator Lynn Nguyen Professional Apparel Coordinator Tania Vasilikitov Social Media Coordinator
Eillie Anzolitti, Jane Bender, Elena Corda, Sophia Fischler-Gottfried, Sharon Friedlander, Chloe Heckman, Kate Hoblitzell, Sabreena Jackson, Tiffany Lu, Erica Ma, Nicole Malick, Whitney Mash, Nicole Ripka, Erica Sachse, Vinita Saggurti, Jim Santel, Amanda Shulman
Editor-in-Chief Jocelyn Teece Website Director Jason S. Mow Editorial Director Jordyn Shaffer Website Operations Coordinator Monta Ozolina Senior Fashion Editor Elonia McHenry Senior Features Editor Hannah Bender Senior Shopping Editor Whitney Mash Writers Lara Berns, Rachel Besvinick, Maegan Cadet, Sophia Fischler-Gottfried, Mae Hochauser, Sabreena Jackson, Erica Ma, Mariam Mahbob, Nanette Nunu, Leah Pellegrini, Alexandra Roman, Elisa Stroh, Ashley Welch Blog Director Emma Baiada Blog Managers Gunarat Lorn, Nicole Malick, Lynn Nguyen, Camille Reyes, Erica Sasche Blog Managers Monika Haebich, Erica Ma
D2S Executive Board
President Lauren Haas Vice President at Large Anita Saggurti Vice President of Fashion Shows Joanna Ehrenreich Vice President of Marketing Romelie Coriolan Vice President of Finance and Corporate Sponsorship Ibie Longjohn Vice President of External Affairs Lisa Erwin Vice President of Internal Affairs Rashana Trim The WALK Editor-In-Chief Jocelyn Teece
Questions? Comments? Want to get involved? Email us at firstname.lastname@example.org.
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winter 2012 ARTS & STYLE
How four Penn seniors have forged their own fashion paths
the it bag
The backpack’s rise to “it” status as a fashion accessory
fnar 284/684-401: photography and fashion
An exclusive interview with fashion photographer Tony Ward and his students
beauty and the brains
the things they wear
Use accessories to express a balance between brains and beauty
spoken wardrobe: a fashion shoot featuring the excelano project Don't miss the beat and keep it to the streets. This story is a poetic take on the visual art form of dressing and messing with words, shirts, shoes, and skirts. Call it what you want: urban, alternative, or hipster. We don't care; we just want the letters to match the sweaters.
philly's got game, boy Artists are using digital instruments to create sounds like never before
four internships in 4 takes Students share their experiences working in the magazine and fashion industries
a moveable feast: OUR TAKE ON THIS SEASON'S MONOCHROMES Green, grapes, gowns. Red, raspberries, rings. Purple, plums, purses. This shoot is a monochromatic rainbow of fashion and food. From Whole Foods to Joan Shepp we’re taking a bite out of this season’s ripest foods and styles.
remembrances of clothes past The perils of associating popular brands with private memories
old city love story Shot in black and white, this Old City love story captures the essence of a modern downtown romance.
what's in your makeup bag? Get the most out of the season’s top make-up products
a fashionable read A selection of the year’s best coffee table books
ON THE COVER: Mimi Owusu ’12 is wearing a Blugirl Blumarine fur coat (Knit Wit, $1951); a Haute Hippie cardigan (Knit Wit, $245); a Haute Hippie bead chessorie (Knit Wit, $495); J Brand snakeskin jeans (Knit Wit, $242); a Chanel pin and vintage earrings (stylist’s own). Photographed by Erica Sachse ’14 Edited by Ayasha Guerin ’12 Styled by Erica Sachse ’14 and Jocelyn Teece ’12 Beauty by Chloe Heckman ’13 Hair by Brittiany Cunningham of the Studio CL
unleash this season’s monochromes in delectable style
PENN COURSE REVIEW! fnar 284/684-401: photography and fashion DOES THE DEVIL WEAR PRADA? L I F E O F A FA S H I O N I N T E R N SPOKEN WARDROBE
MEET THE EXCELANO PROJECT!
PHILADELPHIA LOVE STORY! A MODERN DOWNTOWN ROMANCE
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Behind the scenes at The WALK winter fashion shoots. Photographed by Ayasha Guerin ’12, and Max Wang ’15.
12/2/2011 6:49:39 AM
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR They say the best way to impart knowledge is to tell a story. I’m no Stephanie Meyer, but if I were to tell anyone a story, it would likely be about The WALK. For every day that I work on this magazine, I’m inspired by someone’s creativity, someone’s dedication, someone’s sheer madness-tingedbrilliance. Take our monochromatic food shoot (“A Moveable Feast”). It began with a basic premise: food, models, clothes, color blocking. The idea was simple; the results were anything but. When I arrived on set, crispy leaves of purple cabbage had been turned into edgy shoulder pads, shoes were adorned with Twizzlers, and a clutch had been created out of Eggo waffles. Chili pepper necklaces and raspberry ring-pops accessorized an avant-garde red pantsuit. The student models (Joanna Karaman ’12 and Shannon Leon ’12) were quite literally giggling at the ludicrous loveliness of this culinary feast for the fashionably inclined. I dedicate this letter to the army of enthusiastic volTop left: Joanna Karaman ’12 models a look from our “A Moveable Feast” shoot. Photographed by Alex Remnick ’12. Top right: Maddie Macks ’12 and Anthony Diepenbrock ’13 model looks from our “Old City Love Story” shoot. Photographed by Ayasha Guerin ’12. Below: Lace. Photographed by Max Wang ’15.
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unteers whose work lies behind the pages of this magazine. It’s truly an unique concept, and not for the faint of heart: a fashion magazine drawn from the resources of a college campus, featuring student models, student photographers, student layout designers, and clothing pulled entirely from local Philadelphia boutiques (and occasionally Frogro). Yet, somewhere along the road from brainstorming sessions to the printing press, these humble beginnings are transformed into something exemplarily and sublimely authentic. As I pass down my editor’s hat like I wish my mother would her vintage Chanel handbag, I do so with the confidence that my story will be but one of many told in the enduring legacy of The WALK. And, should you ever doubt the power of fashion in all its creative and transitory brilliance—as it lies here for you to enjoy on the pages of our Winter issue—remember the wise words of Mark Twain: “Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence in society.”
Jocelyn Teece, Editor-in-Chief
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things they WEAR By Erica Ma
Hasbrouck Miller effortless sophistication
Hasbrouck’s accessories include a vintage satchel, a hand-woven scarf from Northern India, a T. Anthony wallet, Persol sunglasses, and a Rolex watch.
Alaina wears her Sandro Paris blouse, Vince Camuto shoes, Zara skirt, and vintage jewelry and tights.
College senior Hasbrouck Miller describes his fashion as “more interesting than what you would find in a J. Crew catalog…but I still play it pretty safe.” Don’t be fooled, though. He may “play it safe,” but his look is always stylish. With his signature tan suede bucks and a camelhair blazer as his must-have piece for fall and winter, Hasbrouck definitely has a solid knowledge of style. For the rest of us, we all experience lazy days where we throw on sweats and trudge to class sans chic accessories save for perhaps the Starbucks latte we’re clutching. Not so for Hasbrouck, who on lazy days will “just casually throw on [a] kurta, a blazer, a pair of jeans and some brogues.” His wardrobe comes from a variety of places he has travelled to and includes a number of vintage items and designers like Marc Jacobs and DKNY. When asked whether maintaining his look is difficult, Hasbrouck says, “Not at all. It takes me longer to eat breakfast.” And for all the aspiring trend-setters out there, his advice is: “You don’t have to spend a lot…but invest in a good haircut and some good shoes; both should reflect your personality. Everything else in-between should W fall into place.”
uptown chic If you see College senior Alaina Urbahns around campus, she’ll likely be wearing her signature diamond stud earrings, diamond pendant necklace, and black Chanel watch. All family heirlooms or vintage items, these pieces perfectly sum up Alaina’s “feminine and classic with a twist” style. Her favorite designer is Karl Lagerfeld, who she believes does “an incredible job of translating classic Chanel house ‘codes’ such as the camellia flower into a modern and wearable piece for today’s woman.” And if she could raid anyone’s closet, it would be Marion Cotillard for her classic French girl look and the amazing pieces she wears in her Dior ad campaigns. For Alaina, maintaining her style is not a challenge; she believes anyone can have great style if they make it part of their daily routine. For everyone who loves the classic look, take notes from Alaina. When she doesn’t know what to wear, she reaches for a dress. “It’s an instant outfit,” she says, “no coordination required!” For all your other fashion crises, Alaina advises, “When in doubt, wear heels.” W
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The WALK interviewed four Penn seniors with intriguing personal style. We asked them about the things they wear: those items that define not only personal style, but also who they are or aspire to be.
Natalia Reina downtown cool College senior Natalia Reina takes inspiration from The Man Repeller blog and wants to raid Alexa Chung’s closet, but her style is all her own. Natalia describes her look as “really relaxed but edgy. I like to be prepared for anything coming my way.” Her friends describe her look as “Miami meets London.” Her style, which is a mix between grungy and earthy, is unique because she combines trends from the different places she’s lived. “I grew up in Miami and I think I’ve been able to incorporate that into my style now that I live in the Northeast,” says Natalia. She does most of her shopping at home in Colombia, where Zara is 10 minutes from her house. Although her must-have piece for winter is her Zara fur sweater, her favorite item is her Columbian black combat boots, which she claims “were made to be mine.” Still, Natalia has days where she feels like she has nothing to wear. “It’s funny but every day I change about five times and I always end up wearing the first thing I try on.” Her advice for readers are words to live by: “Be yourself. And comfortable. And once in a while, go W all out.”
Natalia wears her Zara fur sweater, Topshop black sweater, Chanel glasses, Swatch watch, shoes from Columbia, and skirt from a boutique in SoHo.
bruno golombek tailored classic
Bruno’s accessories include Oliver Peoples sunglasses, Guido shoes made in Argentina, a Timex watch, a Longchamp bag, a Pringle of Scotland scarf, and Calvin Klein and Pantherella socks.
Wharton senior Bruno Golombek describes his style as “phenomenal” and embodies the classic look of tailored fashion. Despite his eye for style, Bruno claims he doesn’t try to stand out with his look, stating instead that his wardrobe is unique in that most of his clothing is tailored. For Bruno, “whether it’s a $30 shirt or a $300 shirt, it has to fit properly.” When it comes to shopping, Bruno is drawn to old time favorites in different colors. He currently owns eight J. Crew pocket tees in colors ranging from navy to yellow. His favorite designer? Tom Ford, for his immaculately-cut menswear designs. And as for his signature piece? “My Oliver Peoples sunglasses. They’re vintage, so I don’t see any hipsters running around wearing the same ones. It’s somewhat satisfying.” For readers trying to establish their own style, Bruno emphasizes the importance of tailoring, asserting that proper fit is crucial. He also advises against mindlessly imitating trends, stating, “Don’t pick up a GQ W and try to pull off everything they suggest in there. You’ll look like a Christmas tree.” THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM
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We take an inside look at the backpack.
By Whitney Mash
THE IT BAG
our daily backpack may seem mundane and uninspired, but it is one of the most useful accessories out there—even if it ends up on the floor every day. In ancient times, a variation on the backpack was used to carry heavy loads, and the bag itself was constructed out of various animal skins and sewn together using the animals’ intestines (sounds like a backpack made by Lady Gaga!) Although the backpacks that followed used different materials, they continued to have the same necessary function: to carry the contents of daily life. Thus backpacks quickly became essential for military outfitters and outdoorsman. In fact, backpacking as a recreational activity dates back to the early 1900s. Today, this staple accessory is associated internationally with student life, and Penn is no exception to the trend. While in recent years tote bags – such as the classic Longchamp model, le Pliage – have become increasingly popular, the backpack seems to be making a comeback. Not only have students reinvented the concept of the schoolbag, but designers are getting creative
too. The fashion world gave a nod to utility when backpacks first entered the runway scene in the spring of 2010. Designers such as Alexander Wang, Marc Jacobs, and Lanvin embellished their versions with studs, sequins, and exotic skins. Although it may seem excessive, some styles can be just as expensive as designer handbags. The Olsen twins made it a point to include a $39,000 alligator skin backpack in their new fall collection for The Row, as did Ralph Lauren with his $5,750 fur-covered creation in this winter’s collection. Celebrities, models, and style mavens have all been spotted sporting “luxury” backpacks. With so many options available, the backpack is a genius yet chic way to show off your personal style on a daily basis and relieve your body from the pain of carrying a heavy shoulder bag, as it can actually put a dangerous amount of strain on your body. So the next time you head to a 9 a.m. recitation and feel the farthest thing from fashion forward, just know that you are the proud owner W of an “it” item: the backpack.
The Row Black Alligator Backpack, elleuk.com
Ralph Lauren Shearling Backpack, RalphLauren. com
Givenchy studded-strap backpack, Glamour.com
Left: Mary-Kate Olsen wearing a Pendleton leather backpack; Huffingtonpost. com. Middle: Rihanna with a vintage lambskin Chanel backpack; sandrarose.com. Right: English fashion model Daisy Lowe with Louis Vuitton Bosphore backpack; coolspotters.com.
THE WALK / WINTER 2012
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Still traveling home to See your
Scan the Qr code and become a fan for a chance to win a haircut and color with alexey valued at $150
the Studio cl workShop rittenhouSe SQuare 128 S. 19th St. 215.496.0604 alexeykatS.com Photo courtesy of Shira Yudkoff
Studio WALKCL Winter Ad Indesign 2012.indd New.indd 11 1
Alexey Kats is a senior stylist and creative director at the Studio CL, a hair studio located right on Rittenhouse Square. Alexey has worked as a platform educator for companies such as Goldwell, Sahag and his own venture Fountainhead Beauty. While working on many of the cityâ€™s fashion shows he has also worked on feature films and produced and contributed to photo shoots for TV personalities, magazines, boutiques and universities. He designed his own line of cutting tools and educates both hairdressers and clients on hair cutting and styling. In addition to doing custom color and Keratin treatments, Alexey has been perfecting his dry-cutting technique for years and considers haircutting a form of sculpture.
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FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401 R284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401 FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401 4/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401 FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401 R284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401 LOVE YOUR MIND…” was the man- and advertising through the lens of contempoFNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401 tra for last week’s lecture in Photogra- rary artistic expression. 84/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401 /684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401 There is also a twist on the course’s objecphy & Fashion, the Penn course taught 401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401 284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401 by professor and established fashion tives as Ward pays particular attention to the 84-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401 photographer Tony Ward. The purpose of the implementation of fetish in fashion photog/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401 401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401FNAR284/684-401 lecture was to highlight the importance of raphy. Here, the photographer becomes not
uniting concept with image. While projecting raw cuts from his own recent shoot, Ward demonstrated how photographers seeking work could use a concept or tagline to select works for an advertising campaign, gallery space, or even portfolio for prospective clients. Along with the presentation, he included a Photoshop tutorial on detail and lighting corrections used to achieve more professional results. The class meets for three hours on Monday evenings and is geared towards students who are interested in exploring the relationship between fashion and photography while also developing an individualized sense of style. Through a series of weekly assignments, the students are encouraged to develop a strong understanding of branding, marketing,
only the observer, but also the provocateur of his subject. This framework challenges students to produce works that convey their own interpretations of fetish by altering its stylistic presence in their pieces. This element can be seen in the variety of creative approaches to the class’s most recent self-portraiture assignment. Students’ interpretations of fetish range from nudity and sexuality to texture, color, and pattern. The goal is to find one’s voice and ultimately be able to communicate that vision to the public. In an interview with Ward, he emphasized the importance of a balance between artistic expression and commercial appeal in fashion photography. Here Ward gives The WALK an exclusive commentary on the complex role of fetish within his own works. W
Alex Remnick achieves a unique look with the use of a dark background and dramatic lighting. Bonnie Arbittier decides to showcase her love of patterns and texture.
Ayasha Guerin’s silk gray dress plays off of the grays found in the design on her bedroom wallpaper.
I've always thought of the fashion industry as a foreign concept: unreachable, impossible to be involved in, and difficult to see the underbelly of the fashion world. However, Tony Ward has taken the fashion industry and opened it up for our eyes to see. We have seen models, designers, makeup artists, and many more walk through the doors of our classroom and give us their own insight to the fashion world. I have been inspired in countless ways, and the inspiration is really causing progression in my photography. The fashion industry is no longer a stranger to me: it is an accessible world, and it only gets more enticing with every bit of knowledge I learn from this class.” —Bonnie Arbittier
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PHOTOGRAPHY & FASHION
An exclusive interview with fashion-fetish photographer Tony Ward and a behind-the-scenes look at his students’ work process.
BY elena corda
Using a bedsheet she found in her room as a backdrop, Bonnie Arbitter is able to capture a colorful play between light and movement.
q&a with THE PROFESSOR The WALK: What is the best piece of advice you would give someone who plans to go into this industry? Tony Ward: Study art and photographic history, politics, business, and current events. It is also very important to be driven by an unrelenting passion or obsession to become the very best in the field. As the great Alexey Brodovitch used to say: “Astonish me!” The WALK: Which designers have been most inspirational to your work? What about these designers resonates most with you and your personal voice? TW: The first designer that was most inspirational early on was Emilio Pucci. He was one of the first artists that I recognized who became a master of his craft and the art of branding – by the application of his signature to his textile designs. I loved his sense of style, his choice of fabric and palette. His scarves for women and ties for men were commonplace in my parents’ wardrobes. In recent times, Calvin Klein has always impressed me for pushing the envelope of eroticism and fashion. Sam Shahid, the man behind CK’s sexy ad campaigns - designed the original layout for my second book, Tableaux Vivants.
Erica Sasche plays with jewlery and dramatic lighting to create an edgy effect.
The WALK: What recurring themes appear most often in your work? TW: People of all types, shapes, and sizes. The WALK: What does the word "fetish" mean to you? How do you encourage students to incorporate the concept of fetish into their fashion photographs? TW: Fetish means a penchant or obsessive interest in a particular thing, often related to sexual desire. Any student that endeavors to incorporate the concept of a particular fetish in a body of work is encouraged to understand the law as it applies to what is commonly referred to as the censorship of obscene material. Working within the framework of the law, is important for the production of any photograph that may be considered lewd or lascivious in nature.
Above: Using fabric and light, Claire Din produces this luscious look. Below: A dynamic composition and fun props draw the viewer in to Ayasha Guerin’s self-portrait.
The WALK: At what point do you believe that nudity in art crosses the line into pornography? Is there such a distinction? TW: I don’t believe there is a distinction. Nudity in art is about context and sometimes the subject area of the artist’s oeuvre has a very compelling erotic component. Pornography is primarily defined by politicians and legislators.
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THE BRAINS The stylish Penn student doesn’t just bring a backpack to class (see our feature “The It Bag”) – she polishes off her look with a plethora of accessories to achieve the perfect mélange of geek and chic, of beauty and brains.
MODELED BY SOPHIE GRIGGS ’12 PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALEX REMNICK ’12 ASSISTED BY MAX WANG ’15 DIRECTED BY SHAYNA MONAHEMI ’12 AND ERICA SACHSE ’14 STYLED BY QUINN WERNER ’12 AND SABREENA JACKSON ’15 HAIR AND MAKEUP BY CHLOE HECKMAN ’13 00 THE WALK / WINTER 2012 14
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GEOMETRY: SHAPING UP Geometry sends us straight back to the basics; taking inspiration from circles, squares and hexagons to create bold statement pieces. On Sophie Griggs (opposite): Glasses, Lafont; earrings, Dannie Jo, Knit Wit, $200; gold necklace, Madewell, stylist’s own; blue and gold necklace, J. Crew, stylist’s own; black chain necklace, Barneys, stylist’s own; color block necklace, Bonded, $45; three triangle necklace, stylist’s own. Blue and gold necklace, J. Crew
Earrings, Dannie Jo, Knit Wit, $200
“The Studio” by Pablo Picasso
Black chain necklace, Barneys
Background pattern inspired by the work of Piet Mondrian
Color block necklace, Bonded, $45
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“Au Salon de la rue des Moulins” by Henri De Toulouse-Lautrec
english: the classics
Silver and triangle rhinestone bracelets, Janis Sadit, Knit Wit, $265
Gold knot necklace, Janis Sadit, $465
Armour full finger ring, BCBG, $148 On Sophie: Gold signature necklace, Chanel; pearl necklace, Chanel; black pearl necklace, Janis Sadit, Knit Wit, $460; gold knot necklace, Janis Sadit, Knit Wit, $465; necklace, Fendi; pink gem ring, Sugarcube; black rhinestone bracelet, Lanvin; No. 5 pin, Chanel; all other items, stylist’s own.
Sophistication and glamour incite the classics of shakespeare and fitzgerald as pearls and fine chains hang loosely around her neck with grace. 16 THE WALK / WINTER 2012
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anthropology: uncovered secrets skull motifs are NOTHING NEW TO THE STUDENT OF anthropology. “Woman Sleeping in Landscape” by Salvador Dali
Skull necklace, Charles Albert
Skull necklace, Roberto Cavalli
On Sophie: Multiple hanging chain necklace, Basia, Knit Wit, $540; Skull necklace, Roberto Cavalli; brown pouch purse, Henry Beguelin, short skull necklace, Charles Albert; snake ring, Bijules, Bijules.com; all other items, stylist’s own.
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12/2/2011 7:20:06 AM
GEOLOGY: constant change
Rock ring, Ankasa, Knit Wit, $100
Cuff, Paige Novick, $520
Lee $175 ts
Teardrop earrings, Coralia Leets, $175
GEOLOGY BRINGS US PRECIOUS ROCKS Set in gold THAT dazzle in the sunlight.
Green stone and gold chain necklace, Bonded, $48
Above: “Mount Williamson, The Sierra Nevada” by Ansel Adams. Below: “In the Red Rock Canyon” by Birgir Sandzén.
Brown stone and chain bracelet, Sugarcube
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Educating thE nExt generation of retailers
the Jay H. Baker retailing Center at Wharton is committed to being the global leader in retail knowledge. With access to world-renowned academics, industry, and c-suite executives, the Baker retailing Center is your source for everything retail-related.
UpComing events 2012 marC ConferenCe Friday, January 28, 2012 huntsman hall WHarton leadersHip leCtUre WitH Ken HiCKs, CHairman, president & Ceo of foot loCKer, inC. Thursday, February 9, 2012 dhirubhai ambani auditorium (JMhh g06) 2012 WHarton international program (Wip) trip May 9, 2012 - May 20, 2012 hong Kong & Shanghai
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ContaCt Us 4th Floor, Vance hall 3733 Spruce Street email@example.com 215-898-0235 http://www.wharton.upenn.edu/bakerretail/
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wardrobe Modeled by Ivy Sole '15 and Tiffany Kang '14 of the Excelano Project Photographed by ayasha guerin '12 directed by shayna monahemi '12 styled by erica sachse '14, alexis richards '15, and mandi liU '15 coordinated by lynn nguyen '14
MEET THE EXCELANO PROJECT: Penn’s first and only spoken word group. They were “Real Cool” in Spring 2011 and “Lords of the Fly” in 2010; their alumni have performed on Broadway, at the White House, and on HBO; and as member Tiffany Kang avows, “They teach you how to be fly.” Give some snaps to Tiffany and Ivy Sole as these masters of creative expression share their insight on the intersection between personal style and poetic identity.
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On Ivy Sole: Tank, stylist’s own; mesh tank, Stephanie Seibel, stephanieseibel.com; skirt, Vagabond, $18; jewelry, stylist’s own. On Tiffany Kang: White dress, Vagabond, Indah, $98; kafta, Stephanie Seibel, stephanieseibel.com; shoes, Jeffrey Campbell, stylist’s own.
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You gotta believe in what you're wearing. That element of owning your outfit really just ups your confidence, your self-esteem, and also the way other people perceive you.
BY TIFFANY LU
On Ivy: Sweater, Vagabond, $12; dress, Vagabond, $28; belt, Urban Outfitters, stylist’s own. On Tiffany: Pants, Vagabond, $70; cross tank, Stephanie Seibel, stephanieseibel. com; vest, Zara; socks, stylist’s own; shoes, Jeffrey Campbell, stylist’s own.
here’s a certain set of parameters that seems to define members of the Excelano Project: passion, character, and integrity of style. Oh—and occasionally being mistaken for a hipster. But hey, it’s perfectly understandable (provided you consider that a compliment, which neither Tiffany nor Ivy does… no offense to actual hipsters). As Tiffany noted of her fellow poets, “They all dress so well, it’s pretty inspirational to go to meetings. It’s kind of like a given: If you’re in EP, you should come dressed in a way that’s distinct.” That search for a unique style parallels a poet’s search for his or her own distinct voice. It’s all about finding one’s identity, which Ivy pointed out is really the main point of college. “That’s one of the things I love about Excelano,” she added. “There’s no way you can’t grow.” Citing their own experiences, Ivy revealed that EP was her first time writing poetry collaboratively, while Tiffany credited the workshops with helping her write more honestly. Whether it was through performing intensely personal pieces or attending workshops like the ones above, the emphasis on baring one’s soul made self-discovery, and creativity, pretty much a given. Interestingly enough, fashionistas seem to cite the exact same things when reflecting on their passion for clothing. Could it be that writing style and sense of style stem from the same source? Might the way you express yourself actually carry over between literature and fashion? It’s an interesting notion, and these two artists delved into the topic with as much eloquence and insight as they would their performance pieces. Ivy began by labeling both her clothing style and her poetry as “free form. I’m really simple,” she reflected. “I like really clean-cut and classic-cut things, like Oxford shirts, boot cut jeans. But then there are days when I just do my own thing, mixing and matching.” She described her passion for prose poetry as a forum “where I let myself have free reign. Because of the free form that I like, not having stanzas per se or things like that, I think my clothing represents that a lot. On any given day, two days in a row, you’ll never see me in
a similar outfit.” Tiffany, on the other hand, expressed a love for combining colors in unusual ways. “I like doing a lot of neutrals with pops of colors,” she enthused. “On certain days I’ll go all black, other days I like doing bright neons with classy neutrals. People [call it] old school sometimes with a touch of bohemian.” In fact, she remixes colors the same way she uses language in her poems. “I have a very fractured, fragmentary metaphor-aftermetaphor-type style,” Tiffany explained of her writing. “I like distorting language; I like to be surprising.” She added, “I also like building around one idea. With poetry I’ll usually start with my ending line and then build around that. [For clothing] I won’t decide my outfit as a whole; I’ll decide one thing I want to wear for the day and I’ll build my outfit around that, so everything is driven towards that goal.” For Ivy and Tiffany, style translates smoothly from text to textile. So does something else: the confidence factor. The same way a spoken word poet needs to believe in what she’s spinning, “you gotta believe in what you’re wearing,” Tiffany urged. “That element of owning your outfit really just ups your confidence, your self-esteem, and also the way other people perceive you.” The Excelano Project is all about finding and expressing one’s voice. After all, voice is one of the most poignant things about a writer. In the same way, fashion is a means of making a powerful statement. If both literature and fashion can be catalysts for revolutionary social change—and, really just look at Jackie Kennedy—then the eight EP poets have limitless potential. All it takes is standing by your style, Tiffany shared. “Committing to something is empowering, whether it be an outfit or a poem or anything you do in life.” So take a page out of The Excelano Project’s book and their (supposedly) Latin derivation: “We march forth.” Whatever your style, whatever the medium, seek to find and express yourself. Whether you choose to lead with your words or your runway presence, all W the world’s a stage. Own it.
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11/28/2011 6:20:44 AM
On Ivy: skirt (worn as cape), Stephanie Seibel, stephanieseibel.com; dress, Aryn K, Vagabond. On Tiffany: Beaded dress, Shoreroad, Vagabond, $190; shoes, stylistâ€™s own.
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11/28/2011 6:21:04 AM
DRESSED by Ivy Sole
There is a bouquet in the hands of mourning. The flowers are glories, of the sunrise The sun lies to the dewey decimal system of humanity. Falsehoods of light ever truly leaving our world. It seems like yesterday we lived the lives of gymnasts, Making balance beams out of curbs, Where enthusiasm lied in the cracks of the sidewalk; A rose in the handlebar. Now petals are turning in the wind, Gracing corners turned séance. Candles among skid marks, Eyes laden with oceania. Memorials to an ideal, the last song. You are gone, for naught for long. Laid down like a lover, The metal and concrete brought You to your knees, and sipped The song from your bones. Your spine, your fingertips, And now the sidewalk is singing, Yet still singing and The rhythm of your heartbeat halted, Piano fingers rendered without melody. Pitter patter of rain is the only notion Of how you were taken from me. My unfinished symphony. But I feel you, you live on and I am becoming more in tune, With the music of my soul. The chords that keep me intact, In fact, I’ve realized I’m clothes-minded. Indeed, my cloth laden brain is escaping Saddening venues for suit and tie, Casket affront a naked eye, and my failed Tries at humanity. I daresay I’m stumped. And until now, I’ve avoided the answer. But now I know, and will disrobe. When caretakers leave, and shoelace remains undone, Knowing the value of tying the knot Tripping and falling in hate, lust, or love Searching for people cut from a different cloth Yet too afraid of pursuit for it to unravel Dreading the thread, the stitch in time Treading on the brink of tomorrow Silk of throat, pairs of dice to be thrown away Like fantasies of paradise with age I say, that until people turn the page And dogear peace and praise, The world will never cease to take, Lives rightfully our own. And for those in empty pools, Waiting for your toes to prune, Embrace nectar of forgiveness. Even silence speaks volumes.
Committing to something is empowering, whether it be an outfit or a poem or anything you do in life. On Ivy: skirt (worn as cape), Stephanie Seibel, stephanieseibel.com; dress, Aryn K, Vagabond. On Tiffany: Beaded dress, Shoreroad, Vagabond, $190; shoes, stylist’s own.
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11/28/2011 6:21:17 AM
FORGIVENESS by tiffany kang
forgiveness, brown sugar sprinkled on your lips from a heaven that licks the plates of the homeless because no one else has an appetite for them. you didn’t deserve the sweet of all things, but it crawled in your lap anyways, mistaking guilt for an apology. forgiveness, the species of a mutilated god whose descendants are few but have hands big like hearts and hearts open like hands, its hands are open. like the rim of a beggar’s cup inviting you in, the upturn of heavy pockets, the Nile of change that runs ear to ear between seasons. we collapse at its mouth and drink mercy from the deep end. forgiveness is the blind child who doesn’t know he is, but wouldn’t care if he knew -he has seen enough to dig the blindness out from all of us. tell me, forgiveness, when they threw your body under the schoolbus did you think the children inside were laughing at you? when they blamed you for the war, did you speak and sleep easy? how does peace fall from broken jaws? where the does the stink of guilty breath go after it has raped the city air? and why does its whistle blow so carelessly into throats already silenced? do the doves cough blood when we twist each other’s necks? tell me, forgiveness why does your king still bother to spill fistfuls of perfume into our pores asking us daily if we have remembered him? so let us forget everything that comes easily, and remember instead, the choir of invisible children whose music wants nothing more than to bully the world into believing they still exist. remember the bombs erupting in your mother’s eyes the night you were born. how violently her universe shook as she heaved you from the rubble. but forgiveness is not a mother whose reason is to love you. forgiveness, in its past life, was a prisoner executed for a crime he did not commit. in this life, he knows best that you don’t always get what you deserve, but gives himself to you anyways.
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11/28/2011 6:21:22 AM
PHILLY’S GOT GAME,
BOY BY NICOLE RIPKA Top: The audience gets into the music at Studio 34’s 8static concert. Bottom: New record label, Data Garden, hosts a concert for band Cheap Dinosaurs at the Switched-On Garden in Philadelphia.
We take an inside look into Philadelphia’s underground Chip Music scene. As music and technology fuse together, artists are discovering their abilities to use digital instruments to create sound like never before. Philadelphia’s own Chiptunes movement is gaining recognition as local artist, Chipocrite, helps fuel the local scene. um the “Super Mario Brothers” theme song. Chances are if you’re over the age of eight, you know the tune. These songs that emanate from our gaming systems are not only unforgettable, they’re actually enjoyable. They fuel us throughout a game, and become the backdrop through our cyber journeys. In fact, there are some people who are more drawn to the background music than to the game itself. No, these people are not geeks; they’re the brilliant and innovative founders of Chiptune. Chiptune, or Chip Music, evolved from the idea of people using their childhood Game Boys as instruments. When you imagine music technology of the future, the last thing that probably comes to mind is your original black and white Game Boy. This isn’t the case in the world of Chipocrite, otherwise known as Paul Weinstein, a prominent “chip kid” in the city
of Philadelphia. About seven years ago, Weinstein was introduced to Chiptune at a seminar. After learning how to use the Game Boy music making program Little Sound DJ (or LSDJ), Weinstein was immediately hooked. Once he understood how people were making the music, he knew he had to try his own hand. To understand the LSDJ software, Weinstein tells us to imagine a DJ set. Instead of mixing with the standard DJ turntables, the DJ uses a Game Boy. While many believe you create Chip Music by hacking into hardware, the LSDJ software is the actual game cartridge itself. This cartridge may look like any typical Game Boy game such as Tetris or Pac-Man; but LSDJ provides an interface for a DJ to play with instrumentals and composition. When playing for a live audience, Weinstein likes to write out his songs in advance, and then add transitions later. Though he happens to be a loyal retro
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Chipocrite performing live at 8static in Philadelphia. All photographs courtesy of BenMasonPhoto.com.
gamer, he prefers to compose with original Game Boys – ironically, the black and white old-school models get the best sound. Chipocrite first took off when Weinstein’s high school band “MJ Project” broke up. Now 28, he has been playing guitar since the 6th grade. He claims that his musical background is weird; he started out more interested in rock than electronic music. Weinstein says his favorite band is Phish, which he considers “totally random,” but he can’t run away form his “jamband” past. In terms of Chip Music, Philly artists are his main influences. Two prominent bands that dominate the chip music scene in Philly—Animal Style and Chief Dinosaurs—offer Weinstein inspiration. He was recently asked to join Chief Dinosaurs, and has enthusiastically accepted the offer, thrilled to be playing with a band again. In a city that fosters such a variety of music scenes, it’s preordained that creative musicians may spring from any Philly nook or cranny. “Chip Music embodies the type of organic creativity that the Philly music scene is all about,” Weinstein said. He anticipates that Philadelphia’s underground Chip Music scene is becoming more and more well known. The music is about rendering the obsolete: preserving a medium in a world on technological
overload. Our very own Philadelphia “chip kids” try to collaborate with others who want to do the same. Chief Dinosaurs recently played a show put on by a new local record label, called Data Garden. Rather than releasing CD’s, the label releases a card with a download code. The card is made out of seed paper – once the code is entered, the card can be planted to sprout flowers. Weinstein believes that in a world of downloadable music, this gives people an incentive to actually buy something renewable. While Chipocrite has performed at conventions across the U.S., Weinstein’s home base is still Philly. He finds himself most frequently in West Philadelphia hanging out with his 8static community. “There is more of an artist kind of feeling in West Philly. It’s a collaborative energy of people who as kids didn’t understand how gaming technology works, but now have the ability to mess around with it.” Weinstein thinks the fact that most of the 8static shows are monthly lends credibility to the growing following in Philadelphia. He excitedly reflects on the power of the medium: “People can’t imagine hearing the familiar Game Boy sounds through a concert size PA but when they do, they can see how the music is truly unique and quite mind blowing.”
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12/2/2011 7:21:55 AM
Four internships Ever wonder about what goes on behind the scenes at one of the top fashion magazines in the world? Behind the fabulous clothes, trendy accessories, fantastic beauty products, and glitzy celebrities are real people.
Daily Life at The Daily News Walking into the glossy marble lobby, heart pounding from the buzz of the subway and from nerves, I wondered what I was doing at the Associated Press building in midtown Manhattan. I had sent in my application for a Features and Fashion Internship at the New York Daily News on a whim, not thinking I had a real shot, but simply hoping that at the very least I’d be able to practice my interview skills. But the editors must have seen some promise in my newly written resume because all of a sudden it was my first day as an intern. My boss told me later on how I’d looked that first day – wide-eyed and panicked, trying to take in all the instructions at once. But over time, I grew more confident. I soon realized that interning at the Daily News was a far cry from The Devil Wears Prada – my bosses reminded us that they used to be interns them-
A men’s fashion photo shoot I helped out on. Photos courtesy of The New York Daily News.
This was an article I edited featured in Nylon Guys. It can take a while because you have to fact check sentence-by-sentence.
selves, and always treated us with respect. Despite my initial nerves, interning at the Daily News turned out to be one of the best and most exciting experiences I have ever had. What did I do, you might ask? I assisted my boss with styling on multiple fashion photo shoots, helped pick out merchandise, and went to showrooms. I wrote actual stories for the paper, too! I went out on the streets with a Daily News photographer to interview women on their personal style and also got to interview a successful New York children’s clothing design team. I learned so much from all of my experiences: sitting in on reporters’ pitch meetings with editors, handling Public Relations communications and keeping up with the quick pace of a daily publication. I am so happy I took a chance in applying, and grateful for such an amazing opportunity! W
The women I interviewed for a personal style piece. Photos courtesy of New York Daily News.
Better Than Fetching Coffee Jackson
It’s an arctic winter day. I got up and braced myself for the hour-plus commute from Stamford to SoHo. I braved the slushy dirt puddles and runny noses, because I knew that what I was about to do was worth more than learning about it in a classroom. I was a Nylon intern, and I was excited to be there! Sheer luck – that’s the only way I can describe how I landed an internship at a fashion magazine as a high school student. While I had no connections, and no prior experience in fashion, I knew that I wanted to learn the ins and outs of how a fashion magazine functioned. This was the perfect opportunity. As an office intern, I had my daily duties (sorting and distributing mail, answering phones, walking the dogs, taking out the trash…), but every
This is what it looks like behind the desk in the morning. I went to Dean and Deluca daily for coffee to fuel my day. This is the first thing you see when you walk into the office. I greeted messengers and other visitors here at the front desk.
by Sophia Fischler-Gottfried
single day was different. Many of the editors had too much work, so I was able to help out in various departments. I ran errands for the fashion closet and the art department, aided with Diesel’s Be Stupid campaign, and edited feature articles. By the end of my internship, I knew what everyone did, and how their role contributed to the finished product. In the beginning, being an intern is like being a fly. You can get in the way, and annoy those above you. While this can feel a little demeaning, it’s also the biggest perk. Since people expect you to slip-up here and there, you can explore by “mistakenly” finding your way into places you don’t necessarily belong. It’s not all glamorous, and it can be intimidating at times, but an internship in the fashion world is extremely rewarding. Take a risk and be a fly. You’ll W see what I’m talking about.
One of my jobs included cleaning the front closet. I had just finished when I snapped this photo.
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11/28/2011 6:21:39 AM
Sharon InSide Scoop on InStyle by Friedlander
The 26th floor of 1271 Avenue of the Americas is silent. Aside from the huge shrine to InStyle Magazine when you first walk in, you would never know that hundreds of people are hard at work churning out one of the most well-renowned fashion magazines in the world. I was lucky enough to occupy cubicle 2611E on InStyle’s intern row for ten weeks last summer and got to work with some of the best editors in the country. I learned the ins and outs of the magazine business, while picking up some expert fashion tips along the way. Every day was an exciting experience and instead of throwing on shorts and a T, I had an excuse to get dressed up in the mornings (thank you air conditioned offices, for allowing me to wear cute blazers in July). Most days I would sit at my desk, patiently waiting for an email to arrive or my phone to ring with my assignment for the day. As an “edit intern,” my daily activities ranged from researching articles, to writing blurbs, calling publicists, or even transcribing celebrity interviews (ahem, Beyoncé!). Some days I worked in the fashion closet – which, for anyone interested in clothes (like me!) – is a dream come true. Thousands of designer gar-
Top: An interior shot of the Los Angeles store boutique Zainab. Bottom: Shoes sold at Zainab by Jerome C. Rousseau.
ments and accessories (most of which aren’t even in stores yet) are strewn across the floor, hanging on racks, or being perfectly styled into outfits that are then printed in the magazine. Other days, I got to work on an intern project to create InStyle’s next venture onto a digital platform. It wasn’t uncommon to see high-profile celebrities walking the halls (hey Brad Goreski!) or getting the chance to run downtown to pick up garments from some of the world’s most fabulous designers (Jason Wu anyone?). The highlight of my summer, though, was getting to work on creating the video ads for each issue that are shown in the back of New York City taxi cabs. As underappreciated as they are, so much effort goes into making them perfect. Getting to work in a place where everyone is as passionate about fashion as you are is one of the best experiences in the world. No outfit is too over-the-top, no fashion statement is too bold, and no style experiment is too far-fetched. Though the work behind the scenes isn’t as glossy and glamorous as the pages that get printed, being a part of one of the top women’s fashion magazines is truly tres chic!
I got to transcribe the cover story interview with Beyoncé! It took almost three hours to transcribe twenty minutes of conversation.
InStyle’s office is located in the Time Inc. Time & Life building at 1271 Avenue of the Americas in New York City. It was an amazing place to come to work everyday.
An Intern's Night Out “Hmm, I’d offer you some champagne if you were eighteen…seventeen seems like a stretch, no?” I laughed in agreement, “Next year, I guess!” but my employer Zainab had already returned to her party guests with their drinks. That night, I didn’t need liquid courage; I was high off of the adrenaline of Fashion’s Night Out – and focused on balancing in my 5-inch platform pumps. It was the last night of my internship at Zainab Boutique in Los Angeles, and certainly the most rewarding. The store was more packed than I’d ever seen it (never more than two customers at a time) and I was busier than I had been all summer (it was a nice break from blogging about new arrivals, straightening the clothing racks, and hearing about my employer’s ideas for future endeavors). I loved it. The majority of my internship was, for lack of a better word, dull. Both the atmosphere and the merchandise were impeccable, but a sporadic trickle
By Nicole Malick
of customers was anything but stimulating. So I organized, took inventory, and learned to distinguish Ohne Titel from Alaïa and Nina Ricci. There was the afternoon I helped pull pieces for Ke$ha’s stylist, who needed accessories for a Grammy ensemble, but there were also the many afternoons that I sent emails, dressed mannequins, and tweeted about markdowns. It wasn’t until Fashion’s Night Out that I finally felt the rush I wanted – the sensation of truly being a part of the fashion world. After confirming with musicians and finalizing invitations, the lively crowd of excited, stylish shoppers (which I expertly pointed in the right direction, being so familiar with the inventory) was exhilarating. While my internship didn’t lead to a paid position or illuminate my ideal career, I experienced, albeit briefly, the fun of working in fashion.
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11/28/2011 6:21:45 AM
Channel the creativity of Hemingway's Paris in this seasonâ€™s delectable monochromes.
On Joanna Karaman: Purple dress, Hapi by Hapiru, Sugarcube, $84.
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11/28/2011 6:22:19 AM
On Joanna: Red fedora, Christys’ Crown Series by Tony Merenda, Sugarcube, $48; red sweater, H&M, stylist’s own. On Shannon Leon: Red blazer, Forever 21, stylist’s own; sweater, A.P.C., Sugarcube, $265.
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11/28/2011 6:22:31 AM
On Joanna: Jacket, twelve by twelves, stylistâ€™s own.
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On Joanna: Fedora, Christy’s Crown Series by Tony Merenda, Sugarcube, $48; sweater, H&M, stylist’s own;Piper, shoes,$82. Steve Madden, model’s own. On Joanna: Dress, C. Luce,
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11/28/2011 6:22:48 AM
On Joanna: Dress, Hapi by Hapiru, Sugarcube, $84; heels, Fioni, model’s own. On Shannon: Dress, Hapi by Hapiru, Sugarcube, $84; heels, Banana Republic, model’s own.
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11/28/2011 6:22:54 AM
By Jim Santel
Remembrances of Clothes Past
ne sign of an immature mind is an inordinate fascination with authenticity. Among a certain type of person (white, male, overeducated), an entity—usually a band or a filmmaker, sometimes even a writer or artist—is worthy in inverse proportion to the amount of people who know about this entity. If you meet one of these people, you’re apt to confront a statement like, “Yes, I went through my Hemingway phase too, in seventh grade, but now I enjoy Nathanael West.” I used to be one of these creatures, scouring Pitchfork for obscure bands to wield like bludgeons against the ignorant masses, usually the pretty girls who ignored me. It took me a long time to notice that scoffing at their philistinism only gave them more reasons to ignore me. I also realized, as many young angry snobs do (and just as many angry snobs do not), that I didn’t actually enjoy many of these Pitchfork darlings, and that the first person to discover a band hears the same songs as the last. I take it as a positive sign of growth that I’ve left these attitudes behind, though they linger on in an unexpected realm of my life: clothing. Now, I like clothing, and try to dress in a way that suggests I give a damn, but I spend far more time thinking about Jonathan Franzen than I do shawl-collar sweaters. But in recent years, as two of my favored brands have become more and more ubiquitous, some of that old elitism is creeping back, though this time, the stakes feel higher. I discovered Penguin right before I began high school, when I saw a picture of my dad from the mid-seventies, sporting a cream-colored shirt with brown piping. “What is that shirt?” I asked. “That’s awesome.” “It was a brand called Munsingwear. It’s out of business, and that’s probably a good thing, because they made shirts out of colors and materials not found in nature,” my dad replied. A week later, I was doing some back to school shopping with my mom, and there, on a Nordstrom mannequin, was my dad’s shirt—albeit made from cotton, not polyester, and without the ridiculous 1970s lapels. But the spirit of the thing was intact, and the tag confirmed that the once-defunct company had been revived. In whimsical fifties font, it read: “An Original Penguin by Munsingwear.” I bought a polo in a dark shade of mustard. My dad couldn’t believe the coincidence. In the seven years since, I’ve bought countless Penguin
shirts, sweaters, and ties. This is in largely because Penguin’s items fit my two major criteria for clothing: they fit my skinny frame, and they make me look like I stepped out of the Kennedy administration. But on a deeper level, I’m a loyal Penguin customer because wearing their shirts reminds me of my dad. If from one angle it’s an entirely frivolous part of our relationship, from another it’s impressive to consider that something so simple can serve as a repository of shared history between father and son. Penguin’s tags often read, “A small price to pay for a lot of attention.” For me, it’s a small price to pay to be reminded of my dad every time I button up an oxford in the morning. Before I knew Patagonia as the nexus between hipsters, prepsters, and granola munchers, it reminded me of my grandmother. Here’s how: in the early 1990s, before its ubiquity, Patagonia was a relatively small West Coast niche company. In those years, my uncle, who had recently moved to San Francisco, would bring my parents and grandparents Patagonia fleeces from an outlet store near his house. When I think of my grandmother, it’s often of her taking her evening nap on the sofa, bundled up in a teal or red Patagonia. When I wear a Patagonia fleece now, it’s not because it’s the knowing alternative to the North Face (though this doesn’t hurt). It’s because Patagonia is a very tangible link to a childhood that passes further behind me each day. Patagonia is now a major brand, and Penguin has gained a lot of ground since 2004. When I see a sloppy bro wearing a Penguin polo shirt, or when Locust Walk seems like a Patagonia runway, that old elitist rage comes back. Find your own damn brand, I want to say. I was here first. I tell myself that my snobbery about these two brands is justified. The only thing of mine that the Black Keys’ growing popularity encroaches upon is my own foolish pride; but each Penguin shirt intrudes on my relationship with my dad, and each Patagonia vest offends my memories of my grandmother. Hallowed ground is being trampled, and I have a right to be angry about this. But my anger contains its own refutation: If I’m lucky enough to associate my clothes not simply with looking good or the madness of acquisition, but with something far more profound—with love—than what could possibly dilute that? The answer, of course, is nothing. W
Clockwise from top left: The store in Palo Alto where the author’s uncle bought early Patagonia fleeces; A vintage how-to-golf LP sponsored by Munsingwear; Clint Eastwood sporting a Penguin polo; Richard Nixon hitting the links in a Penguin shirt in 1961
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11/28/2011 6:23:32 AM
On Maddie Macks: Dress, For Love Of Lemons, Sugarcube, $129; Shoes, Stylist’s own.
stepping out on a crisp Philadelphia morning, she takes in the Old City splendor
MODELED by MADDIE MACKS ’12 AND ANTHONY DIEPENBROCK ’13
PHOTOGRAPHED by AYASHA GUERIN ‘12
DIRECTED by Shayna Monahemi ’12 and Erica Sachse ’14 STYLED by ALEX MORITZ ’15, ROBYN RAPAPORT ’15 AND ALEE SCHWARTZ ’14 hair anD MAKEUP by Chloe Heckman ’13 THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 37
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a refined young man taps her on the shoulder
and asks her for the hour.
On Maddie: Dress, For Love of Lemons, Sugarcube, $129. On Anthony Diepenbrock: Jeans, Sugar Cube by Dunderdon, $179; jeans, modelâ€™s own.
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12/2/2011 7:24:21 AM
On Maddie: Dress, For Love of Lemons, Sugarcube, $129; shoes, stylist’s own. On Anthony: Jeans, Sugar Cube by Dunderdon, $179; jeans, model’s own. Credit: Old City Coffee, Ruth Isaac Treatman, 221 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA, 19104, 215. 629. 4879, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.oldcitycoffee.com.
she says she isn’t wearing a watch...
so he asks her for her time
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12/2/2011 7:25:02 AM
On Anthony: Jeans, Dunderdon, Sugarcube, $179; shirt, model’s own; boots, model’s own; hat, Christies, Sugarcube. On Maddie: Shorts, stylist’s own; bustier top, MM, Sugarcube, $52; necklace, Janis Savit, Knit Wit, $460; shoes, stylist’s own.
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they spend the day together drinking rare seasonal sunlight
time is still
the air is cold
in exotic prints and fur she reclines.
On Anthony: Jeans, Dunderdon , Sugarcube, $179; Shirt, model’s own; Boots, model’s own. On Maddie: Printed Maxi skirt, stylist’s own; Ramey Brook White Blousey Tank, Knit Wit, $375; Fur vest, stylist’s own; Bangles, stylist’s own; Beaded bracelet, Kissique.
00 THE WALK / FALL 2010
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12/2/2011 7:26:12 AM
their silhouettes remain clean and glamorous against the urban sunset
though the day may be over the magic of old city end ures
On Anthony: Jeans, Sugarcube by Dunderdon, $179; Shirt, model’s own; Jacket, model’s own. On Maddie: Dress, Herve Leger; Imposter Signature Fur Jacket, Knit Wit, $796; Necklace, stylist’s own; Shoes, stylist’s own.
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experience modern style
00 THE WALK / WINTER 2012
ABStd-Walk-Ads.indd WALK Winter 2012.indd 144
138 South 34th Street | www.AdolfBieckerStudio.com 11/15/11 1:06 11/28/2011 6:26:30 AMPM
WHAT’S IN YOUR MAKEUP BAG?
AN INTERVIEW WITH CARIE BRESCIA BY CHLOE HECKMAN
The stunning Carie Brescia showing off her signature look.
This month, I sat down with Philly’s own celebrity make-up artist and beauty expert, Carie Brescia, to pick her brain about careers in the cosmetics industry and to get the inside scoop about what you should have in your makeup bag this season. Carie has created a new standard in the beauty industry, appearing regularly on Philadelphia’s Lifestyle and Entertainment Show, The 10! and Good Day Philadelphia. In addition to having her own line of cosmetics, Carie is also a spokesperson for Olay, Covergirl and Maybelline. With her bubbly personality and positive energy, Carie’s interview with The WALK went nearly an hour over because we couldn’t get enough of her! The WALK: How do you define beauty? CARIE BRESCIA: I look at beautiful women and I look at beautiful men. There is the physical beauty like an 18 year old model, but real beauty is when people can say “wow, you look so great” and it doesn’t really matter if they have makeup on or not. If you are in a good place in your head, in your life, and in your heart – to me, that is beauty. The WALK: What is your favorite part of your job? CB: I get to work with my hands and put something creative out there into the world. I love empowering young women. I don’t think you need to wear makeup to feel confident, but I meet a lot of people who need a pick-me-up: There is something about putting on a pair of Louboutins that makes you walk differently and hold yourself to a higher standard. The WALK: What make-up item is your must-have? CB: Eyebrows! I can’t live without eyebrow powder and a brush. Brows, crème blush, and mascara. If you really want to do it up, curl your lashes first. The WALK: What is the most common mistake women make with make-up?
CB: They don’t know how to apply bronzer. A lot of people apply bronzer like you apply a blush; but, in reality, bronzer should halo the face. Literally, trace around the outer edges of your face to warm everything up. A lot of people use bronzer without blush, but it makes your face look one-dimensional. More often than not, I would say get rid of the bronzer and just use a good blush. The WALK: What is the best trend in the industry right now? CB: Trends schmends. Every winter, it’s like let’s do the cranberry lip and the dark smoky eye. The best trend is knowing who you are. I always wear my makeup the same way, and I don’t care. If that is what works for my face and it’s not broken, I’m not going to fix it. The WALK: What kind of products are worth buying designer brands and which are worth sticking to the drugstore? CB: Mascara is mandatory in the drugstore because they are all pretty much the same, and made in the same factory somewhere in Germany. Also, lipstick and lip glosses. Spend a little more on foundations and eye shadows, because the drugstore brands tend to dry out quickly.
1. Hide every flaw with Carie’s recommended concealer, Benefit Erase-Paste; 2. Although Carie sticks to the original Burts Beeswax moisturizer, from the look of her, you can tell that there’s nothing old-fashioned about having great skin; 3. Carie’s favorite NARS Crème blush in Cactus Flower.
After we finished up with Carie, we convinced her to spill the beans about the best brands and products to buy right now (besides her own of course!). MASCARA: Falsies from Maybelline and Loreal Volumnious – always in black. CONCEALER: Benefit ErasePaste. It only comes in three colors but most women are shade #2. BLUSH: NARS crème blush. Use Cactus flower for fairer skin and Lokoum for more olive skin tones. MOISTURIZER: Carie thinks fancy moisturizing crèmes are crap and still sticks to the original $12 old school, Burts Beeswax. EYELINER: Almay black liquid eyeliner. Carie loves this one and it “stays on like gangbusters.”
Mulberry Cosmetics Bag, Net-A-Porter.com, $140.
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A fashionable 1
VOGUE COVERS $50, Abrams Image
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN $45, Metropolitan Museum of Art
JIMMY CHOO $75, Rizzoli
My personal favorite coffee table book of all time (and the first one I ever bought!) is Vogue Covers: On Fashion’s Front Page. This book brings together 230 of the most famous and beautiful covers of Vogue magazines from all over the world since 1916. There is no text, just gorgeous and inspiring images featuring some of the most famous women and designers from the last hundred years. This book is also the perfect place to find inspiration for classic fashion and vintage style. The only flaw in this fashion bible? You’ll have to resist a strong urge to tear the book apart and hang the pages all over your walls.
One of the most interesting books to come out this year is Savage Beauty, the accompaniement to the smash success Alexander McQueen show this summer at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. For those unable to make the trip to see the show in person, this book is your visual tour guide to the amazing work of this brilliant artist. Beyond the images, this book provides insight into McQueen’s process, as well as many of his most memorable quotations. Plus, the cover includes a holographic skull – this is definitely a one of a kind book!
Let’s face it – every girl loves Jimmy Choos. They are fun, sexy, elegant, and always beautiful. This book is a celebration of the company’s 15th anniversary, and features their most iconic shoes, sketches, and advertisements. The book is available now in Jimmy Choo stores, and will be available for purchase worldwide in February. While it’s on the more expensive side at $75, it is a lot cheaper then a collection of his shoes!
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HARPER'S BAZAAR $65, Abrams Image
A gorgeous fashion coffee-table book is an essential accessory for any styleconscious student. It provides endless inspiration, and will never go out of style. This year marks the release of some new and very interesting books – here are some of my favorites.
by Kate Hoblitzell
the 20th century art book
WHAT TO WEAR, WHERE! $18, Abrams Image
$50, Phaidon Press
For those looking to start their coffee table book collection, I recommend Harper Bazaar’s Greatest Hits. Released just last year, it includes over 300 pages of gorgeous pictures that will feed your fashion cravings for weeks. Glenda Bailey, the Editor-in-Chief of Harper’s Bazaar, describes the magazine as “a can’t miss party where everyone’s invited.” This book is indeed a celebration, and highlights the very best from the magazine from 2001-2011. A personal favorite is the Demi Moore shoot from the April 2010 issue with the giraffe and some fierce Alexander McQueen shoes. Its coverage of contemporary content is particularly inspirational to any modern fashion follower.
For those of you looking for an art coffee table book this is a must have. It is basically a visual history of modern art! It has big, glossy pictures of work from 500 of the greatest artists from the 20th century. You’ll find everything from Claude Monet to Jackson Pollock and work in every kind of medium imaginable. Additionally, this book lists the galleries and public museums where you can see your favorites in person! So it is a perfect companion for art seekers on trips to New York, London, or Paris.
A self-described “how-to handbook for any style situation,” this book is must for any girl about town. It features descriptions and pictures as outfit inspiration for every occasion, from weddings to the job interviews. The book is written by Hilary Kerr and Katherine Power, the creators of the celebrity style blog whowhatwear.com. Their classic style is timeless and appropriate for all seasons. The book is smaller then the average coffee table book, but its invaluable advice makes it a must-have for any fashion book collection. Consider this book your constant source for inspiration and style.
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For more information visit macys.com or call 1.800.289.6229. Available only at Macyâ€™s.
ALL TIME LOW wears
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Published on Jan 16, 2012
The WALK is the University of Pennsylvania's only fashion magazine. It is completely student-run, and our Winter 2012 issue was awarded "Mag...