16 | The Tribune | Weekend
Friday, June 25, 2021
gardening
Pineapple time!
A
h, the pineapple. The pineapple (Ananas cosmosus) is an herbaceous perennial that grows with little to no attention needed in our climate, in full sun or part shade. Pineapple plants are in the Bromeliaceae family, and hence, are a bromeliad, just like any of orange, purple, striped, blushed or speckled bromeliads in the garden (Billbergia spp. etcetera), on the table (Neoregalia, etcetera.), or in the tree (typically referred to as “air plants”, Tillandsiaspp.) and even Spanish Moss which is also a Tillandsia species (T. usneoides). Many variations exist and if you go walking in a coppice (typically mixed broadleaf, often near some small to large body of inland fresh or brackish water) you will likely come across native Tillandsia, if the area hasn’t been poached already. Some bromeliads prefer full shade, some prefer full sun, some do best somewhere in between. Pineapple will fruit (on an inflorescence), despite the amount of love or neglect that they are given. If in shade conditions, they will take longer to mature the fruit than if in the sunlight. Pineapples are very tolerant of soil conditions, except when the soil base retains excessive moisture levels, this causes not enough airspace to be available and the roots will easily rot and not serve any function. While the pineapple has a relatively shallow and small root system, the roots are used to stabilize the plant. As with any bromeliad, the roots are not the only way that pineapples get their water or nutrients, as with many other plants. All bromeliads retain and utilise water and nutrients in the “cups” within the leaves or crown of the plant. Coppice bromeliads (pineapple is happy underneath the edge of a tree) benefit from the detritus of trees, coppice insects, and bird or reptile droppings that may fall into the crown. I have grown pineapple with good to great results in the dappled shade of a broadleaf tree, as equally as in the full sun. If you are a condo or apartment dweller and you have a window or porch facing east, south, or west, you can likely grow your own pineapple(s) with ease. The myth that the red soils of Eleuthera make for the best pineapples is great for business for Eleutheran pineapples, but as with most gardening tales, it is only as true as the person telling the tale believes it to be. This is not to say that some of the best pineapples in the world are not grown in Eleuthera, they very well may be. I know for certain that I am a huge fan and I make sure to keep a stock of pines (as we tend to call them, no need for the whole word) on hand for propagation, that I sourced many years ago from the very fields from a pine farmer near Gregory Town.
Flavour, size, colour, and the texture of the fruiting body and the core are far more dependent upon variety (or cultivar, more accurately), than on growing conditions. Minimal nutrient amendments are necessary, but some amendment will yield far greater results than none. When in the first year or so of growth, I apply minimal amounts of a higher nitrogen fertilizer. My go to nutrient amendment during the growing stage is 12-6-8 with minor nutrients, to promote bigger and stronger growth of the plant. After a year or so, I switch to a fruiting fertilizer with higher potassium levels, 5-5-15 with minor nutrients, or similar. Watering patterns and the correct nutrient levels (often dependent upon soil pH) are the key ingredients for larger fruit production, more so than light levels or the type of soil. Pineapples can be grown in the ground
or containers. My best results are achieved when grown in a seven-gallon (14” diameter) container or larger, pineapples do prefer well drained soils. Fruit size is directly related to water and nutrient availability coupled with the particular cultivar grown. ‘Sugarloaf’, ‘White Jade’ and ‘Elite Gold’ are a few of the cultivars that I am currently growing. All are spectacular in their own ways. If you are dealing with smaller than expected fruit size this year, then when you plant the top or suckers (for even better results) next time around, provide nutrients at the right time and give that plant some more water! Water use will increase with higher amounts of sunlight and wind exposure. Leaves are a nice medium green colour when provided the correct amounts of water and nutrients, and when they are pale, more nitrogen is needed along with magnesium and iron, they are key components of any complete fertilizer. So, good luck. As always, I wish you happy gardening, and enjoy those fruits of your labours regardless of the size this time around. Get into the garden! • Adam Boorman is the nursery manager at the Fox Hill Nursery. You can contact him with any questions you may have, or topics you would like to see discussed, at gardening242@gmail.com.
