Local
FOOD & WINE, RECIPES, FEATURES & MORE
Oct. 11-24, 2018
LOCAL FLAVOR
flavor
Chef David Blair
TA S T Y TIDBITS
T H E W I N D I N G PAT H T O F I N E F R E N C H C U I S I N E S T O R Y & P H O T O S B Y K AY L A A N D E R S O N
O
Mix up a
classic
cocktail Ritz-Carlton Lake Tahoe offers the Art of Mixology every Sunday from 3 to 4 p.m. at Manzanita. This entertaining, educational experience will teach participants how to use freshly cut herbs, classic ingredients such as bitters and infused liquors to create three unique cocktails that will be paired with appetizers. The cost is $60 per person. Participants must be age 21 and older. Reservations are required 24 hours in advance. | (530) 562-3050, manzanitalaketahoe.com
Crazy Good
Bakery opens
South Lake Tahoe has a new bakery in town – Crazy Good Bakery Cafe – offering gourmet pies, doughnuts, cakes and bagels. Crazy Good is located at 2040 Dunlap Drive and is open Wednesday to Monday from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. | crazygooddoughnuts.com
Tahoe City Farmers Market Commons Beach | Tahoe City | Oct. 11
Thursday mornings through Oct. 11. Enjoy fresh local produce, delicious food and incredible lake views. 8 a.m.-1 p.m. Free | (530) 583-3348, tahoecityfarmersmarket.com
Reno Bite’s Restaurant Week Area Venues | Reno | Oct. 11-21
Reno Bites shines a spotlight on a multitude of mouthwatering local restaurants and the diverse dining experiences they offer. It encourages curious culinarians to find a new favorite, revisit some that have long been loved, or mingle with other like-minded food lovers at a fun event. | renobitesweek.com
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n a cool September evening a handful of diners are tucked into Le Bistro in Incline Village, Nev., to enjoy delicious contemporary French-fusion cuisine. Back in the cozy kitchen, owner and chef David Blair is at the helm with a variety of sizzling sauces, soufflé potatoes and meats cooking to perfection. When Blair visited the Tahoe Sierra as a youngster, he never thought that 40 years later he’d own and cook at a finedining restaurant on the North Shore. Blair came here for the skiing and took a job in the casino at Harrah’s Lake Tahoe. Yearning for stable hours that still allowed him to play during the day, Blair ended up at Timber Cove in South Lake Tahoe serving prime rib dinners and dressed baked potatoes. Blair also became a wine writer for the
LEFT: Chef David Blair in the kitchen at Le Bistro; RIGHT: King Salmon with saffron with baby shiitake.
“Some people have a photographic memory with faces. I feel that way about flavors. I have a vivid memory of tastes and flavors.”
–Chef David Blair
Tahoe Reader, a free publication sent to local mailboxes. In the early 1990s, he moved to Tahoe City and worked for Gar Woods Grill & Pier, continuing to learn about food and wine pairing. Blair then transitioned into wholesaling wine while also spending a five-year stint at Swiss Lakewood Restaurant learning how to make French fare under then-owner Albert Marty. In the mid-1990s, Blair became more interested in French wine and started working at Le Bistro while skiing 100 to 120 days a season and run trails in the summer with his chocolate Labrador retriever Yogi Blair. In 2006, Blair formed a local bluegrass band called The Rusty Strings, which included Kerry Andras, now a bassist in Sneaky Creatures and Jenni Charles of the Dead Winter Carpenters. Through his wine distribution job, Blair accumulated a massive French wine collection, yet sold a lot of it to buy a new mandolin. “I have always been good at food and wine pairing and talking to customers about what they like to drink,” he says. “Some people have a photographic memory with faces. I feel that way about flavors. I have a vivid memory of tastes and flavors.” Even though Blair wrote about wine, distributed it and served it at various Tahoe restaurants, he never really thought about being a chef. However, at one point in time he paired up with Michelle Rintala of the Yogurt Factory, now called The Dam Café in Tahoe City, and they ended up taking
third at the Lake Tahoe Autumn Food & Wine Festival with a yogurt sauce lamb gyro creation. “I was surprised when she brought back the medal,” he says. However, even though Blair may not have realized it at the time, he always had a natural propensity for cooking. “It’s always been a knack of mine to think about flavors and how they work together. Just like the very best wines should have a lot of flavor and identity, the goal is knowing how to make that food and pair it well with wine,” he says. “Food should have opulent flavor — balanced, harmonious and savory.” After working at Le Bistro for more than 20 years, Blair took over the reins in 2016. He had a few interesting and talented chefs come through, including a Culinary Institute of America graduate. But the job seemed to appeal to a transient workforce. Blair eventually took over the role with local dessert chef Liesl Panke who handcrafts all of the baked goods at Le Bistro’s, including the loaves of rustic artisan bread served with every meal. “I thought about running a restaurant for a long time. One of my best friends is Ed Coleman [known for Truckee establishments Pianeta, Bar of America and Cottonwood, and who manages Tahoe City’s Christy Hill] and I spent a lot of time eating at local restaurants. I’ve always been comfortable with a lower volume establishment that’s more quality driven, a place that takes a hands-on approach to the operations.”
With Le Bistro, he’s kept a similar five-course format, added his own twist on certain items and has integrated Asianinspired dishes. One of his favorite foods to make is coq au vin. “I enjoy the science, working with numbers, doing things in order and by the book. I use a timer for everything. I want to create an environment that’s an oasis of food and wine in the area,” Blair says.
COQ AU VIN 12 chicken thighs ¼ yellow onion, diced 2 pieces lean bacon, crumbled 3 ounces brandy 1 bottle Pinot Noir 6 medium carrots, diced 24 oz. mushrooms, diced 12 Cipollini onions, diced Salt & pepper Sage, Thyme, Garlic & Italian parsley
Heat the Pinot Noir to a boil and ignite until the flame expires. Slowly sauté the onions in butter and bacon. Season the chicken with the herbs, and add it to the pan, skin side down, until browned. Pour brandy over the chicken and ignite, turning the pieces skin side up. Pour the reduced Pinot over the chicken until covered with liquid. Place in a 300-degree F oven for 90 minutes covered loosely with foil. Separate the chicken pieces, remove bones. Allow the liquid to cool in a container and remove the fat from the sauce. Service the sauce over the chicken and vegetables.
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