June Outturn 2023

THE ROBOTS ARE COMING!

If there’s one topic we’ve all heard ad nauseum in the mainstream press lately, it’s of the advancements in artificial intelligence, and the great strides it has made recently. Words like “Chat GPT” weren’t anywhere near our lexicon even just six months ago, but are now in wide use. Something that’s been puzzling me amongst all this chatter about AI is just how that might play a role within the world of whisky? How might AI change the whisky game? Let’s dig a bit deeper…

The whisky industry has a long history of artistry and tradition. But as technology advances, it’s becoming more and more obvious that artificial intelligence (AI) will be a major force in the future of the sector. AI has the ability to completely transform the whisky industry in many ways, from distilling, maturing

the spirit, to even how we host and present whisky experiences.

The distilling process is one of the most important areas where AI is anticipated to make an impact. Distillation is a complicated process that calls for meticulous observation and regulation of numerous factors, including temperature, pressure, and flow rate. As AI continues to evolve beyond just chat-based prompts and funny photoshop images, AI-powered sensors will be able to keep a precise eye on these factors in real time and make adjustments to maintain the whisky’s high quality. This might be through ultraprecise measurements of the new make, to fill rates, and much more than current distillery management software can handle. A ‘quantum leap’ if you will.

AI can also potentially be utilised to accelerate maturation. Whisky traditionally ages in barrels for a number of years to produce its unique flavour profile. To anticipate how various whiskies will age over time, AI can model the ageing process using machine learning methods. AI can assist distillers in optimising the ageing process to create whiskies with particular flavour profiles and characteristics by analysing data from various barrels. The level of opportunity here for AI to integrate with the maturation of stock is immeasurable.

Hosting whisky events is another area in which AI might be useful. AI has the potential to improve the experience for attendees as virtual events continue to hybridise and change. For instance, AI-driven chatbots can provide information about the whiskies being tried, respond to participants’ enquiries, and suggest further whiskies depending on

their tastes. The way in which AI can then further understand your individual tastes and preferences is quite remarkable, and would open avenues for personalisation, even connected to barrel profiles, in ways we’ve never seen before. Essentially this opens a more tailored whisky experience and can provide a level of appeal to members that examines data in ways that humans can’t — ultimately broadening our palates and discovery in new ways.

On the other hand, there are genuine worries that AI might hurt the whisky industry. The disappearance of the human touch is one potential problem. Since whisky is frequently connected with handcrafting and tradition, the prospect of automation taking over the process may turn some off the whole idea, both from a consumer and producer level.

The potential uniformity of the whisky business due to AI is another issue –something that many Australian distilleries for instance already grapple with! Artificial intelligence (AI) may make it simpler to produce whiskies with very comparable flavours by streamlining the distilling and ageing procedures. The whisky market may become less diverse as a result of smaller distilleries finding it difficult to compete with bigger, AI-powered ones.

In conclusion, although the function of AI in the whisky business is still developing, it is obvious that it has the potential to fundamentally alter the sector. AI can help to produce whiskies that are of consistent quality and catered to consumers’ preferences by optimising the distilling and maturing processes and improving the consumer experience. There are of course worries that AI can cause the whisky market to become more homogenised and lose its human touch. The future success of the whisky business depends on distillers finding the right mix

between tradition and innovation, and of course, always listening to its customers who enjoy this marvellous ‘uisge beatha’ (water of life).

Whatever the future may hold, it’s an exciting one to navigate, and that mix of tradition and technology will always be at the fore.

Matt Bailey* ~ Branch Director, SMWS Australia

*This article about AI taking an active role in whisky, was almost entirely written by AI. That’s just how wild this all is… anyway, back to humans…

Happy Champs month!

“The future success of the whisky business depends on distillers finding the right mix between tradition and innovation, and of course, always listening to its customers who enjoy this marvellous ‘uisge beatha’ (water of life).”

BLIND FLAVOUR, BLIND FOLLOWING

June is here and Champs is just around the corner. In fact, this whole month is centred around the AMWTC, which, in itself, is so much more than just a guessing game. It’s a personal flavour journey using nothing but your own senses. Sure, it pays to know what the drams on the possible 50 list are, but it’s your own senses that do all the hard work at the end of the day. The idea of blind tastings and flavour journeys — partnered with some words in May Unfiltered that one of my Society colleagues at The Vaults, Julien Willems, wrote — got me thinking about preconceptions, and how much they can really influence people’s decisions.

The Society is all about flavour — it’s our motto, it’s what we try our best to instil in members and the wider whisky community, and it’s the truth. A name is just a name. In many cases, some names deserve hype to a certain level (as there’s usually a reason said names have reached such a level of prestige), but as of late — with the likes of social media and the urge to show off/compete with others’ collections halfway across the world — so much of the so-called hype is inflated with no logical reason at its core.

If you’re wondering where I’m going with this, I’ll share with you Julien’s words from May Unfiltered #81:

“I remember some remarks about mildly boring Outturns, when the only sources of peat was a monthly release from distilleries 3, 29 and many older refill barrels and hogsheads. The lesson is to enjoy and appreciate what is available while you can, or at least lay down some stocks for the future during times of plenty. There will come a time when you’ll congratulate yourself for planning ahead.”

These words were in reference to 2016 when Julien was behind the bar at The Vaults — imagine being bored with constant 29 releases? In fact, even closer to home, I’ve heard Matt and other members frequently talk about the same era in The Society when 33s were steadily featured in Outturn. That just doesn’t happen anymore, and that’s probably a good thing. A 29 was nothing special back then, and neither was a 33 — it kind of reminds me of a bunch of other codes we’re seeing a lot of right now like 66, 68, 35.

The 66s and 68s we’ve been getting through as of late have been astoundingly tasty. And who knows, in 5+ years we may see a shortage of these codes, it wouldn’t take much, and we’ll have members reminiscing and murmuring that we don’t see many of them anymore, ascending them to a hyped-up, cult status.

The point is, if you take away the codes, the labels, and the brands, you just have your senses, and only by using those alone will you be able to determine what you like or dislike. June is Champs month, but it’s also a celebration of flavour discovery the oldfashioned way — using the tasting notes and your senses. There’s so much incredible whisky out there, and quite a lot of it isn’t from the big hype brands.

Adam Ioannidis ~ Resident Marketing Coordinator and South

Park aficionado

CHOCOLATE BODEGA

Welcome Cask 41.145 Hola Roso! We mentioned a few Outturns ago about just how much development goes into whiskies like this one. Direct bodega relationships, rich meaty spirit from Distillery 41, and funky extra maturation with the use of Cask 108.14 to change this spirit around. A Society cask, extra-maturing a Society cask. Our own wood policy and this big sherried 41 make for a warming and sweet option for our Malt of the Month in June!

HOLA ROSO!

DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS

CASK No. 41.145

$185

REDUCED FROM $210

Limit of one bottle per Member

REGION Speyside

CASK TYPE 1st fill Spanish oak Oloroso hogshead

AGE 11 years

DATE DISTILLED 18 March 2010

OUTTURN

Cinnamon, cumin and turmeric beautifully integrated with dark chocolate, marmalade and banana skin while the delightful oiliness of glazed pork and chorizo coated antique wood in a Spanish bodega. Fruitcake emerged on the palate with sour cherries, cranberries and prunes, topped with burnt moscovado sugar, ground coffee beans and slithers of orange skin. Water combined coffee with cream as dried fruits merged mint chocolate and wood char in the most sophisticated way. On the tongue a joyous amalgamation of cocoa nibs, orange oil and brown sugar complimented chocolate covered brazil nuts, praline and walnuts crushed with a linseed coated cricket bat. After spending 9 years in an ex- bourbon hogshead this was transferred to a 1st fill Spanish oak oloroso hogshead.

SPRING IS IN THE AIR

SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW

CASK No. 9.217

$235

A CHEERFUL SOUL

SPICY & SWEET

CASK No. 72.107

REGION Speyside

CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel

AGE 17 years

DATE DISTILLED 11 September 2003

OUTTURN 210 bottles

ABV 56.2%

AUS ALLOCATION 42 bottles

The nose is a welcome waft of fragrant spring air– golden syrup, mashed banana, barley sugars, honey, fresh linen, flowers and lemon furniture polish on varnished oak. The palate’s main message is sweet lemon – lemon drizzle cake, sherbet lemons and lemon curd, with additional rainbow drops and meringues; the lingering finish has tobacco strands, ginger biscuits, chilli chocolate and liquorice sweets. Leafy notes hit the reduced nose –dandelions, nettles, basil, lemongrass and black tea. The palate now combines iced gem, foamy banana and almond croissant sweetness with hints of apricot, orange, juniper and quinine – memories of Thai curry to finish.

REGION Speyside

CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel

AGE 10 years

DATE DISTILLED 23 June 2011

OUTTURN 237 bottles

ABV 57.9%

AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles

A cheerful mix of aromas like lemon sherbet sweets, cedar and pine scented candles, runny honey and buttermilk scones with lemon curd made us smile. The taste was that of a vanilla bourbon lemonade combining the creamy, slightly floral flavours of fresh vanilla beans with oaky bourbon and a tart lemonade. Adding water, it was just perfect for kicking back and relaxing with friends on a warm summer’s evening on the new wooden deck patio with slices of lime mascarpone cheesecake, peppermint tea and for the wee hours later a sea buckthorn daiquiri blending rum, lime juice, sugar syrup and sea buckthorn jam garnished with a rosemary sprig.

WANDERING WESTWARD

SPICY & SWEET

CASK No. 78.57

$185

REGION Highland

CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel

AGE 12 years

DATE DISTILLED 3 September 2009

OUTTURN 159 bottles

ABV 62.4%

AUS ALLOCATION 42 bottles

A lovely initial nose that suggested to us olive oil mixed with flower honey, rich, textural and wonderfully inviting with further notes of soft waxes, mineral oils, menthol resins and dried exotic fruit chunks. Reduction brought out barley sugars, orange and coriander marmalade, toasted fennel seed and bergamot. The mouth was naturally sweet and oily in texture. Many notes of pollens, fruit curds, lime sweets, hessian, apples baked in calvados, flower honey and vanilla custard. With water we got heather ales, malt loaf, exotic fruit teas, hardwood resins, soft wood spices and cough mixtures.

ADMIRE THE ARCHITECTURE

SPICY & DRY

CASK No. 77.72

$185

REGION Highland

CASK TYPE Refill bourbon hogshead

AGE 12 years

DATE DISTILLED 7 April 2009

OUTTURN 236 bottles

ABV 59.4%

AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles

A familiarly firm, ‘highland’ style aroma from this one to begin. One which included cooking and mechanical oils, tool box rags, aromatic hessian, nettles and a touch of manzanilla sherry style salinity. We also noted pine wood, mineral oil and shoe polish. Water brought out aged mead, salted honey, dried flowers, aniseed and malty shilling beers. The neat palate was richly textural and waxy. Lots of herbal medicines, bandages, hardwood resins, putty, lanolin and cough mixtures. Water brought out notes of new leather, mentholated tobacco, dried herbs, bouillon stock, orange peel and various fruit teas.

PEACHES FIT FOR A PRESIDENT

What would you think if a whisky literally tasted like rich peach syrup in a glass? What on earth is going on here?! Cask 128.17 is not just one of the most intriguing fruit bombs we’ve ever seen, but also one of the oldest whiskies ever bottled from this distillery which revived the Welsh whisky world back in 2004. Imagine pouring the peach syrup from an SPC tin over a pavlova, at Christmas, out the back on the lawn, surrounded by family and friends. This is THAT whisky. Otherworldly flavours.

MILLIONS OF PEACHES

SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW

CASK No. 128.17

$240

REGION Wales

CASK TYPE 2nd fill bourbon barrel

AGE 11 years

DATE DISTILLED 8 September 2010

OUTTURN 167 bottles

ABV 58.2%

AUS ALLOCATION 48 bottles

Aromas of white chocolate buttons, caramel toffee and apricot Danish, before one panellist piped up “I have that song ‘Peaches’ in my head, by The Presidents of the United States of America.” No surprise on the palate then, ‘Millions of peaches, peaches for me’, or indeed us, a Bellini cocktail par excellence. After adding a drop of water other fruits made a guest appearance, strawberries, pineapple and mango but on the taste we all agreed peaches, in the form of a tart, cobbler, jam or from a can as we went back to the song with part of the lyrics ‘‘peaches come from a can, they were put there by man.’’

WHAT DREAMS ARE MADE OF

OLD & DIGNIFIED

CASK No. 35.287

$775

A DREAM OF CHOCOLATE AND CREAM

JUICY, OAK & VANILLA

CASK No. 71.86

$185

REGION Speyside

CASK TYPE 2nd fill PX hogshead

AGE 29 years

DATE DISTILLED 25 October 1991

OUTTURN 69 bottles

ABV 51.1%

AUS ALLOCATION 24 bottles

We visited the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art in Jerez and walked through the immaculate stables. The aroma of polished leather boots and saddles mingled with the light breeze of sweet fragrant orange groves. We sat outside and enjoyed a cigar out of a well-waxed wooden box, and after a sip of water, we got served jamon serrano extremely thinly sliced direct off the bone. Fabulously rich, sweet, juicy and velvety – “what dreams are made of” it is that which we imagine or fantasise about. After 27 years in an ex-bourbon hogshead we transferred this whisky into a second fill PX Sherry hogshead, which previously matured whisky from Society cask 5.69.

REGION Speyside

CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel

AGE 13 years

DATE DISTILLED 10 October 2007

OUTTURN 155 bottles

ABV 55.1%

AUS ALLOCATION 24 bottles

Freshly baked banana bread arrived with a topping of walnut icing and nutmeg while the juiciness of lemon zest and apples joined pineapple sherbet and pear schnapps. The palate carried delicious creamy textures with coconut and vanilla. Pears served with ginger and clove syrup mellowed into lemon drizzle cake and after dinner mint chocolates. A subtle floral aroma of heather arrived with water before the fruitiness returned with pears, pineapples and limes mixed together in a sorbet. The palate again embraced vanilla cream but now with orange zest, quince jelly and hints of sage while chocolate flavoured breakfast cereals lingered on the finish.

PREMIUMBOTTLING

THE SWEET KISS OF LEATHER SPLINTERS

JUICY, OAK & VANILLA

CASK No. 105.40

$185

FIFTIES MOUTHWASH

JUICY, OAK & VANILLA

CASK No. 19.65

$250

REGION Speyside

CASK TYPE 2nd fill heavy toast medium char hogshead

AGE 9 years

DATE DISTILLED 26 June 2012

OUTTURN 277 bottles

ABV 66.2%

AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles

The initial nose suggested heather honey, dried flowers, hibiscus tea, malt loaf and natural liquorice. We also got winter herbs, bouillon stock, candied hazelnuts and treacle on brown bread. A wonderful sense of richness and texture. With water we found rapeseed oil, turmeric, cherry-scented nail polish and freeze dried raspberry. A wee pouch of menthol tobacco left lying about somewhere in the background. The arrival in the mouth was warm and rich with spices. Also thick notes of cod liver oil, waxes, black tea, miso paste, wintergreen and lemon cough drops. Extremely satisfying. Matured for 5 years in a bourbon hogshead before transfer to a 2nd fill heavy toast medium char hogshead.

REGION Highland

CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel

AGE 18 years

DATE DISTILLED 17 February 2003

OUTTURN 201 bottles

ABV 57.5%

AUS ALLOCATION 48 bottles

A typically rich and satisfyingly deep aroma to begin, lots of malt syrup, mothballs, cough mixtures and herbal resins all betray this is an older style highland malt. We also noted toasted nuts, bergamot, citronella wax and tea tree oil. With water we found milk bottle sweets, cold cubes, vanilla sponge cake and dusty waxy tones. The neat palate opened in classically waxy and syrupy form, lots of tinned fruit juices, myrtle, wintergreen, herbal teas, ointments and spiced custard. With water emerged lemon oils, fir wood, hardwood resins, furniture oil, camphor and honeyed brioche toast.

CLAIM YOUR $50 VOUCHER IN JUNE!

From Friday 9 June until Friday 30 June, EVERY new member who joins the club, and EVERY existing member who refers a friend or family member to join, will automatically qualify for a $50 voucher to spend on their first bottling/tasting kit/event ticket!

No draw, no chance, no limits to the prize pool: just a straight up $50 for every new member and referral! PSST: members, there’s no limit to the number of new members you refer either, we’ll just keep giving you a $50 voucher for each one.

The small stuff: offer strictly runs between Friday 9 June and Friday 30 June. All $50 vouchers are valid for 14 days only and must be redeemed on smws.com.au/shop by Friday 14 July 11:59pm. No exceptions. The referring member must have joined SMWS no later than 31st May 2023. Vouchers are not redeemable for cash or any other offer running. Any memberships purchased with any other promotion or offer will not qualify, including any ‘welcome’ codes. Vouchers can be used on any bottle/ticket/merchandise product on smws.com.au. Offer is not open to any membership renewals or gift memberships.

COME TAKE PART IN OUR BIGGEST VOUCHER BONANZA EVER AT THE CLUB…

$89 PER PACK

VIRTUAL TASTING

A MASTERCLASS IN CASK

We’re stepping things up a notch in June with our Masterclass in Cask Virtual tasting, where we taste through a series of 5 x 30ml Society single casks, from 5 x distinctly different types of cask usage, and 5 x different flavour profiles. We’ll also be chatting with an expert on wood and whisky maturation on the night, to be revealed closer to the date. AND we’ve thrown in a 30yo Vaults Collection single cask from distillery 53 that just recently picked up some top accolades and awards at the Luxury Masters in the USA. Don’t miss this woody exploration into what the Society does best: maturation of great single malt whiskies!

Goes live on sale along with Outturn, Friday 2 June at midday AEST, and will be hosted live Tuesday 20 June, at 7pm AEST on Facebook & YouTube. Packs strictly limited to one per member.

GRAB YOUR VIRTUAL TASTING KIT AND JOIN IN THE FUN! SMWS.COM.AU/SHOP

SOCIETY EXPERIENCES

MELBOURNE THE ARTISTS

EDITION: THE ART OF CANAPES & FINE PAIRINGS

Melbourne foodie and State Manager Alex Moores is at it again for a special evening at Estelle, Northcote. July is all about art, artists, and in this case the art of canapes and pairings in flavour that will blow your mind. Join us for this limited-seating session at Estelle, and let’s explore flavours in food and whisky like no other.

27 July 2023, Estelle Bistro, 243-245 High St, Northcote

WOLLONGONG THE GRAND TOUR OF SPEYSIDE WITH ANDREW DERBIDGE!

Andrew’s famous Grand Tour is making its way to Wollongong after a hugely successful Sydney & Melbourne outing. Take a trip up the River Spey with the most in-depth exploration of the Speyside region, its style, casks, and wondrous spirit. Six unique single casks from the region, supper, and a presentation from our very own NSW State Manager — all included in this fun tour.

4 August 2023, The Fraternity Club, 11 Bourke St, Fairy Meadow

BRISBANE QUEENSLAND FESTIVALS INDULGENCE

Join your local State Manager Scott Mansfield as he guides you through six of our exclusive and rare 2023 festival casks. Accompanied by a scrumptious cheese and charcuterie board, and welcome beer, sit back and be regaled, entertained, and taken on a flavour journey through the five Scotch whisky regions as we celebrate the whisky festivals.

Sunday 11 June 2023, The Tailors, 16 Logan Rd, Woolloongabba

ORCHARD BEEHIVES

JUICY, OAK & VANILLA

CASK No. 70.41

$729

REGION Highland

CASK TYPE Refill bourbon barrel

AGE 29 years

DATE DISTILLED 25 July 1990

OUTTURN 165 bottles

ABV 49.5%

PREMIUMBOTTLING

Rich, golden honey trickled from honeycomb onto bruised apples and pears that lay scattered beneath. Floral notes of blossom and sandalwood combined with linseed oil and the fragrance of armagnac before fresh tobacco leaves and macaroons merged with apple crumble. The palate combined ginger spice with spearmint for a fresh appeal before moving to figs, gooseberries and digestive biscuits. With water we found light olive oil and flowers arranged in a church with the aromas of incense and cedar wood. Then apricot jam was served on brioche bread before grilled pineapple arrived with whipped cream.

THE PERFECT INTRODUCTION

Distillery 12 has had something of a single malt revival of late, thanks to a change in ownership a few years back. It’s also fair to say that their distillate and our casks have shown it to be some of the most versatile spirit we’ve ever seen. Upon recently tasting this, our ambassador calls this the most approachable and “whisky discovery” of casks we’ve seen lately. By that, he means this is a crowd-pleaser. Bring Cask 12.71 along to the next dinner party you’re hosting and share this lovely, charry red-wine-casked gem along. It’s a winner.

A CURE FOR CURIOSITY

SPICY & DRY

CASK No. 12.71

$190

REGION Speyside

CASK TYPE 2nd fill charred red wine barrique

AGE 12 years

DATE DISTILLED 8 December 2008

OUTTURN 225 bottles

ABV 58.4%

AUS ALLOCATION 42 bottles

At first we noted scented hardwoods, resins, fir wood, strawberry jam and after dinner chocolate mints. An aromatic and playful nose we thought. Water brought out an earthy potting shed vibe with mossy aspects, varnished furniture and some lovely leathery notes. In the mouth we found it immediately creamy in texture with a good level of warm spiciness. Curious notes of engine oil, ointments, herbal lozenges, liquorice and dandelion & burdock cordial. Water brought out firm notes of heather ales, miso, seasoning herbs and bergamot. Matured in a bourbon hogshead for 10 years before transfer to a 2nd fill charred red wine barrique.

DON’T OPEN IN PUBLIC…

It can cause birds to drop dead out of the sky, it’s banned by airlines, and a Japanese study into flavour called surströmming to be the most offensive odour on earth. Thankfully, Cask 151.3 is NOT from an ex-herring cask, but some of the peaty aromas from this unique peated Swedish whisky will evoke the flavours of salted fish and Scandinavian toast. This is not a whisky for the faint of heart, or those who dislike big flavours. Smoked fish, almonds, and olive oil by the beach campfire with seaweed and butter. Take a dip into the surströmming and you’ll never smell peated whisky the same again. You’ve been warned!

SKINNY DIPPING IN SURSTRÖMMING

No. 151.3

A big and expressive nose that brimmed with grubby coal smoke, herbal bitters and savoury smoked fish. Also herby pork sausages, charred bacon and burnt heather with hints of antiseptic cream and carbolic soap. The waft of a freshly creosoted fence. With water we noted gooseberries, elderflower, burning gorse and various varieties of smoked fish and rollmop herring. The neat palate showed a big initial slick of extra virgin olive oil, smoked almonds, campfire on a beach and seawater. Reduction brought out savoury hickory smoke, charcuterie, a waxy mouthfeel and punchy medicinal tones.

BREAKFAST IS READY

Welcome back to Distillery 135! Probably the most versatile distillery in all of Scotland. So much so, that we’ve had to allocate them five different SMWS codes for all their diverse spirit runs. While we’ve recently seen some wacky releases like G15.14, and 122.42, it’s nice to see a really solid 10-year-old classic example of great Scotch whisky like this. A single cask, unique offering from the ‘double pot still’ configuration of code 135. Expect notes of chopped hazelnuts, fresh cream, muesli, pineapple jam and melted butter. Just a fantastic drinker.

LAST SEEN WANDERING INTO THE WOODS

SPICY & SWEET

CASK No. 135.44

REGION Highland

CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel

AGE 10 years

DATE DISTILLED 5 May 2011

OUTTURN 230 bottles

ABV 60.1%

AUS ALLOCATION 24 bottles

A distinctly firm and rich aroma that invoked to us chopped hazelnuts, lemon curd, eucalyptus resins, freshly rolled linoleum, hand cream and white marshmallow. Some water brought nectarine, salted caramel, linseed oil, pinewood and herbal teas. Complex, characterful and unusual. The neat palate was oily and sweet initially. Some syrupy limoncello vibes along with fingerlimes, fruity muesli, dried apricot and pineapple jam. Water brought marzipan, lemon cough drops, olive oil and melted butter on a croissant.

TEXTURAL TAIWAN

How many distilleries around the world can lay claim to being government owned?

A state-owned single malt, no less. Distillery 138 has been in operation since 1978 but didn’t start producing single malt whisky until 2008 after they saw the (privately owned) success of Distillery 139 doing so. Cask 138.15 hails all the way from Taiwan, from one of the two whisky distilleries on the island. Every 138 we’ve seen has been a masterclass in texture and mouthfeel, and this cask is no different. After a fascinating peated expression a couple of months ago, we’re now excitingly offering up this unpeated, Juicy Oak & Vanilla single cask which just oozes with damp tobacco leaf, melon liqueur, French furniture polish and cherry syrup.

TEMPTATION’S TENDRILS

JUICY, OAK & VANILLA

CASK No. 138.15

CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel

We encountered a nose full of dusty pollens, sandalwood, oily rags, camphor, aged mead, white pepper, damp tobacco leaf and hints of melon liqueur, rose syrup, Battenberg cake, lemon curd and fruit salad juices. With water we found a waxier element of furniture polish and beeswax. Putty, lime infused olive oil, chai tea, camphor, aged muscat wines, kumquat and cherry syrup. The palate displayed super richness and texture. Bright fruits, warm, toasty spices, paprika, spiced dark teas, aged cheng pi orange peels, heather flowers, marzipan and pear cordial. Water brought rose syrup, citrus curds, grapefruit peel, dried herbs, orchard fruits stewed in old calvados and muscovado sugar caramelising with oatmeal.

NO VIKINGS NEED APPLY

OILY & COASTAL

CASK No. 4.315

$200

REGION Highland

CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel

AGE 13 years

DATE DISTILLED 28 January 2008

OUTTURN 234 bottles

ABV 61.4%

AUS ALLOCATION 30 bottles

The initial aroma suggested flapjacks, blueberry muffin and Bakewells but all wrapped up in whiffs of ashy smoke and wet rigging. Wind-lashed harbours, pebble beaches, sand and seaweed crackers. Reduction offered us wintergreen and other medicinal herbs. Citrus scented candles, lime oil, creel nets and crushed aspirin. With water we got hessian, throat lozenges, Bonjella, aniseed and hints of camphor. At 9 years of age, we combined selected casks from the same distillery. We then returned the single malt into a variety of different casks to develop further. This is one of those casks.

A CORNUCOPIA OF CURIOSITIES

PEATED

CASK No. 108.43

$170

REGION Speyside

CASK TYPE 2nd fill bourbon barrel

AGE 11 years

DATE DISTILLED 4 March 2010

OUTTURN 204 bottles

ABV 62.1%

AUS ALLOCATION 42 bottles

The nose is a cornucopia of curiosities – gooey chocolate fondants, coconut and mango to start, then cured meats, and finally mustard, horseradish and bonfire embers. The palate brings together sweetness and peatness – cherry chocolates, brown sugar on a smoking side of salmon, rauchbier, liquorice, burning tarry driftwood and bacon sizzling in a skillet. The reduced nose combines custard and banana loaf with sugar-coated fennel seeds, coconut sun cream and a mediaeval turnbrochie’s chimney smokeinfused tunic. The palate still welds together sweet foamy shrimps, pink wafers and chocolate éclairs with more bitter notes of dark chocolate, brine, road tar and acrid smoke.

CHARISMATIC FUNK

RUM

CASK No. R2.15

$250

REGION Guyana

CASK TYPE 2nd fill barrel #4 char level

AGE 17 years

DATE DISTILLED 30 June 2003

OUTTURN 180 bottles

ABV 58.8%

EXTRA MATURED

The epitome of charismatic rum agreed the Panel. A nose bristling with fermenting pineapple and Elastoplast bobbing in a swimming pool. Leathery funk, bike grease and a Pisco sour with abundant lime juice. A lick of caramelised brown sugar smeared on a bicycle inner tube. Washed down with pure WD40. Water gave us seawater, squid ink, langoustine shells and green olives in their pickling juices. Previously in a bourbon barrel for nine years before being transferred to a second fill barrel constructed from 24-month air seasoned oak, with a number four char and new toasted heads.

WORDS BY ADAM IOANNIDIS

On the West Coast of Australia sits Perth City. It’s a lovely city. Oddly quite empty on a Saturday night, even though there are a number of fantastic little bars nestled within walking distance of each other. One of those bars is the recently opened (well, recent-ish, July 2022 it opened its doors) Terrarium: a bit of a hidden gem with an unassuming entrance, floor-to-ceiling windows, and greenery-covered interior and exterior. The twist? This lush and pumping venue is Perth’s newest SMWS Partner Bar. Adam Ioannidis journeyed across Australia (literally flew over most of it) to explore the new bar and chat with our new WA Brand Ambassador, Xander Stucken

Owned and managed by David ‘Xander’ Stucken — who also happens to be Perth’s current SMWS Ambassador — Terrarium is a gorgeous haven that, like the name implies, is like being in an actual Terrarium. Just off St George’s Terrace is Howard St, where you will find Terrarium’s entrance, highlighted by a white, neon-lit dragonfly against a background of lush (artificial) greenery. Follow the short hallway lined with plants behind glass on one side and carefully curated sketches on the other, up a few steps and past the open kitchen, swing a left, up a few more stairs and you’re in the actual Terrarium.

“We spent all lockdown coming up with the concept, because the space was just an empty slab.

DAVID ‘XANDER’ STUCKEN

The bar lines most of the wall on your left with a few stools to sit, whilst booths are placed against the windows on the right and back wall (wall, being wall-to-ceiling windows). The middle of the floor is occupied by several high tables and stools for larger groups to occupy. It’s worth mentioning that all the tables inside were made by Xander (the grains and shapes of several of them actually line up when you placed them side-by-side) from Marri wood slabs, and the blue velvet/wood loungers were custom-made to spec.

No matter where you look, there is greenery all around, a good mix of artificial and actual plants; you may even notice some of the real plants in different spots as their sun and nurturing requirements are constantly being considered and tended to. The bar also boasts a terrace/balcony where a wall of plants and lush greenery resides, keeping a number of tables and chairs company.

“The labour hours of actually keeping stuff alive. It’s not as simple as chucking a bit of water and stuff,” Says Xander. “You can over water, under water, deal with root-rot and pests, and just making sure the plants actually get enough sun. Because some plants get too much, some get too little.”

THE VENUE

Xander has about 14 years of experience behind the bar, coming from a previous management position at The Society’s other Perth Partner Bar, Bar Lafayette. Throw in a variety of other venues into the mix before and after Bar Lafayette, and you’ve got a culmination of skill and trade knowledge that makes Terrarium such a well-balanced, yet diverse venue.

It’s quite an Instagram-able bar — everything from the décor to the cocktails demand to be photographed and shared, and that’s done wonder for their online presence. It’s the surprising back bar that is easy to overlook, however. Not only is there a steadily growing collection of Society malts behind the bar from both recent Outturns and past Outturns that Xander has been collecting over the years with the express purpose of cracking them open once his own bar came to be (and that goes for several other bottlings, too).

“We try not to be too stuffy, or too formal. We are a bar,” states Xander. The bar knows what it does and does it well. There’s a massive focus on service and delivering a pleasant, and memorable experience. This goes beyond the knowledge of the bartenders and extends well into their personality and presentation, which plays a big part in the bar’s image. “I try to make sure everyone has a bit of bounce in their step and personality. (Guests) just want to enjoy themselves, have a good dram, have a good drink, and have a laugh. When you go to like some luxury hotel bars and they just have a stuffiness to them and it’s like ‘how am I supposed to relax when everyone around me feels like a robot?’”.

That ethos is certainly reflected in practice as you’ll commonly find Xander waving freely to newcomers coming up the steps and greeting them as if they were familiar faces, and the same goes for the staff. Their main specialty is their cocktails — a dazzling array of carefully chosen concoctions all put together by Xander. There’s a mixture of weird, wacky, experimental cocktails, and the fun, Instagramable and delicious “crowd-pleaser” cocktails.

There are two menus — one for cocktails, and one for spirits; both are well-fleshed out, and meticulously arranged, with the spirits menu detailing aspects such as region, ABV, cask and vintage, amongst others.

“If something’s not right, I won’t put it on the menu until I deem it’s right.”

(Their Gin menu even has a recommended garnish column). And the spirits menu itself is quite broad, with everything from Agave to Armagnac to sherry. There is quite literally something for everyone! The in-depth menu makes sense, Xander had a bit of time to methodically build out everything during lockdown. The site that would become Terrarium was found in February 2020 — mere weeks before the lockdown came into effect. This gave him plenty of time to flesh out the idea and create the concept around the site.

“We spent all lockdown coming up with the concept, because the space was just an empty slab. The cool thing is, this tree that you see behind you (right outside the venue), this tree has obviously been there for…God knows how long. But it was just these massive windows and an empty slab in here. Quite ironically, that’s how the concept came about. If it wasn’t for that tree, we probably wouldn’t have come up with that concept. And it was like, if we start putting more trees inside to match it, and artificial plants in certain places where things would die, just to give it more lushness.”

BEING A PARTNER BAR

Whilst this might seem like an unlikely place to find a single-cask, cask-strength Society malt (or some other lesser-seen drams), members and guests will be pleasantly surprised by the offering. Terrarium is probably one of the most naturally well-lit Partner Bars we have in Australia, in part to its second-story position, and floor-to-ceiling windows. The lively (and it definitely gets lively in the evenings) and sun-drenched environment can deliver a different whisky-tasting experience that you will seldom find in other venues. It all ties into Xander’s approach to whisky, and that you don’t have to be in an undergrown, dimly-lit bar, or sitting on a Chesterfield to enjoy whisky — there’s nothing wrong with either of those examples, but the preconception that you must be in a certain setting, or act a particular way to be able to drink whisky is one that’s only now slowly beginning to be broken across the industry.

As the local State Ambassador, Xander is also responsible for hosting Society events in WA (taking over from Jason Davies in 2022), the last few of which have been hosted at the bar — a perfect location for hosting 40 or so in a seated fashion with welcome drinks being served on the terrace during pre-tasting mingling. Groups of members have even banded together for regular tastings at the bar in what they call ‘Terrarium Tuesdays’, where a dozen or so members get together at the bar and taste through Society malts on offer. In true Terrarium fashion, some SMWS malts are even used by Xander to make some impromptu, exquisite-looking cocktails that may cause some to utter “heresy”.

Xander says “It was always the plan” to be a Partner Bar. He’s been involved with The Society since working with Varnish (an ex-Partner Bar) around 2015. The bar has recently also completed a third room on the ground floor which will act as a smallscale tasting room, a room that Xander hopes will play host to more specialised and concentrated tastings with The SMWS and wider spirits community.

Terrarium is located at 99 St Georges Tce, Perth, Western Australia 6000. Just look for the neon dragonfly signage and follow the passage.

Don’t forget to flash your SMWS membership card for discounts off Society drams and be sure to say hi to Xander and the team when you pop in!

“Part of the reason I wanted this to be a Partner Bar was a) I live here, and I wanted to do more with The Society. And b) I wanted to prove that you don’t have to be in a dark, dingy basement to enjoy whisky.”