November Outturn 2021 by The Scotch Malt Whisky Society

NEW RELEASES WILL BE ONLINE AT MIDDAY AEDT, FRIDAY 12TH NOVEMBER

Outturn Landing: Friday 12 November Issue 10, 2021

YOUR ULTIMATRE SUMME G DRAMMIN GUIDE

CELEBRATE AT SMWS.COM.AU

Contents OUR BOTTLINGS

SPICY & SWEET

LIGHT & DELICATE

Cask No 108.34....................................... 50

Cask No 28.50.......................................... 11

Cask No 128.13........................................ 50

JUICY, OAK & VANILLA

MALTS OF THE MONTH Cask No 35.292....................................... 6 Cask No 4.266........................................ 12

THE VAULTS COLLECTION Cask No 24.143....................................... 16 Cask No 31.38......................................... 20

YOUNG & SPRITELY Cask No 112.82....................................... 54

SPICY & DRY

Cask No 80.20.......................................... 11

Cask No 24.143........................................ 16 Cask No 28.54......................................... 50

DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS

Cask No 48.123........................................ 11 Cask No G15.10........................................ 11

OILY & COASTAL

Cask No 35.271........................................ 25

Cask No 18.33.......................................... 40

Cask No 30.113........................................ 47

Cask No 26.164........................................41

Cask No 1.241........................................... 47

Cask No 93.160........................................41

Cask No 107.22........................................ 47

Cask No 4.264..........................................41

Cask No 24.148....................................... 47 Cask No 130.5.......................................... 52

SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW Cask No 73.121....................................... 54 Cask No 35.282...................................... 54 Cask No 9.187......................................... 54

PEATED Cask No 149.1............................................14

OLD & DIGNIFIED

Cask No 42.63..........................................41

Cask No 31.38......................................... 20

Cask No 53.366....................................... 55

NOTES FROM OUR TEAM

More browsing the shelves: Classic Whisky Books Murray Hassan........................................

2021... Matt Bailey................................................. 3

Art & the Society Alex Moores..............................................

30 42

Nostalgia - it's a thing of the past Andrew Derbidge.................................... 4

Festive Spirits & Cheeses Jenny Forrest...........................................

My Summer Serve Miranda Lidgerwood............................

5 Questions Jeremy Yung............................................. 5

The Slow Drinker Matt Wooler.............................................

Great Southern Dram Scott Mansfield.......................................

YOUR SOCIETY

Society Crossword Test your Society knowledge..............

Festive gifting Gifts for all................................................

The year that was Our 2021 shared together...................

Events Celebrate the close of 2021.................

Society Advent Calendar 25 casks of Christmas...........................

Virtual Tasting The Ultimate Vaults Collection.........

Competition Win Santa's Dram Sack!......................

AMBASSADOR’S ADDRESS

2021… Hands up if in 2020 you really thought, “Hey let’s leave Covid in this year, 2021 will be a breeze!” I guess we could call that ‘hope’, and it’s something we definitely need more of.

e’ve all had a rough year. Rolling lockdowns, stay at home orders, vaccination waitlists, and occasionally walking past your favourite restaurant or bar that has all the chairs up and lights out. We’ve all scanned a million QR codes, thrown away endless disposable masks, and had our sunnies fog up under a mask and stood in line a bit longer… But… we’ve all come together even closer this year. We’ve all learnt, changed, frustrated, overcome, and been a part of this whisky community that the Society brings together. As I’ve said numerous times before, that’s what a ‘whisky club’ is. A global community, a local branch, a coming together of spirits and minds and places, no matter what’s happening around us. It’s sometimes escapism, but we sometimes need that amidst Covid case numbers as daily headlines. Like seeing a new Star Wars film, the excitement you had the first time you tried a great whisky prevails each new dram as your journey morphs and evolves. The escapism and enjoyment onwards and upwards. We’ve had some incredible experiences this year that have really brought us together as a club: the release

of our single cask beers in collaboration with Hop Nation, our first Australian whiskies, a chocolate and whisky pairing that was out of this world, our first ever Vaults Collection virtual, an incredible ‘game changers’ month in March, our massive Whisky Festivals month in May, our ‘mystery malts’ series, our Gathering in September, and of course I’ll count this double bumper issue of Outturn that’s in your hands right now. Yes, we’re mailing a copy of this issue to every member, even if you normally only get the digital copy, as we really feel as though this is more than just an Outturn, but Australia’s summer dramming guide to sit down with on a warm afternoon with a dram in hand; pick out some casks, and really dig into the articles written exclusively for this issue. A big shout out to all the contributors who helped make this happen. I need to single out one person in particular here though: Huge kudos to artist and friend Jeremy Yung who hand-painted the artwork for this year’s cover. I’ve constantly looked at our wintery Christmas covers in years prior and thought we need to have our own identity as a club over the summer months. Jeremy took this artwork brief by the horns and really captured what the Society and sharing whisky and experiences is all about in summer, then the aftermath on the back cover.

I also want to take this opportunity in our final formal Outturn for the year to thank Andrew for putting up with me messing with his casks, Donelle for understanding I sometimes lose a receipt, and Suzy for being yet again the beating heart of this branch and putting up with my relentless nonsense! It goes without saying that I’m immensely looking forward to the experiences, places, casks, and fun experimentation we’ll come up with in 2022, but really none of this is possible without you, our amazing members and your enthusiasm for the shared community of the SMWS, so a huge thanks to you. Kick your shoes off, grab a glass, and dive into our festive season Outturn for 2021, or what I’d like to dub your ultimate summer dramming guide! Cheers, Slainté, Kanpai.

Matt Bailey ~ SMWS National Ambassador 3

CELLARMASTER’S NOTE

Nostalgia it’s a thing of the past

If I’ve done my sums right, this is now the sixteenth time I’ve sat down at the end of the year to write an “end of year piece” for the Society. For many years, my end of year review took the form of a personal letter that was mailed out to members, and for a while it appeared within the year’s final quarterly newsletter. More recently, it’s been via this column in Outturn. Needless to say, such change and evolution is but a microcosm of the overall change that the SMWS has experienced in Australia over those ensuing years.

ur branch’s change and growth has been a bit like watching a child grow up between the ages of 10 and 18. You don’t notice the change from week to week; in fact, there might not even be much change noticeable across a year. But if you took two snapshots eight years apart and compared them, the differences are incredible. Changes? From the whiskies (and other spirits!) available, to our events, to our social media, to our member offerings, to our communications, to our State Managers / staff; not to mention the sheer size and scale of what we’re doing: As I write these

words, we’ve just despatched a single shipment from Scotland that has more bottles onboard than what we used to bring in over five or six shipments. It doesn’t seem that long ago that we had four Outturns a year (one for each season!) rather than monthly offerings. The tentacles of COVID have also driven change, such as virtual tastings. Our message has also changed (thankfully), simply due to the growth and awareness in the category… for example, 18 years ago, it was necessary at the start of every tasting event to devote the first 10 minutes to explaining what a single cask was, and to warn attendees that our malts were cask-strength. Such products and terminology were virtually unknown in Australia at that time!

But that was then; this is now. Moments of nostalgia can give us warm and fuzzy feelings, but then nostalgia often goes hand-in-hand with rosecoloured glasses and remembering things in a better light than they really were. With but a handful of small exceptions, the changes and development we’ve seen in the Society over the years have all been for the better, and the only nostalgia I afford myself is to lament that we can no longer get old sherry butts of Distillery 7 from 1968! (Anyone remember 7.28 and its sister casks?) So there’s not much to be gained from looking backwards. Rather, the Society is always looking forward. In an industry where you typically wait seven to ten years to market your product after you’ve actually made it, such forward thinking and projection comes with the territory! Here at SMWS HQ, we plan ahead for our Outturn themes; for our tastings and events; for our next shipment; for our next campaign. We’re so “into” next year already, I have to work hard to reflect on 2021. But I’ll give it a go….. If 2021 was a whisky, it would be an unbalanced, cantankerous, unwanted blend that we all had to unfortunately experience. It smelled awful; it was disjointed and rough on the palate; and it left a bad taste in our mouths. Fortunately, calendar years are a bit like distilleries in Speyside….there’s usually a good one just around the corner. So here’s hoping 2022 is a good ‘un, and I trust we’ll catch up at some point for a dram and a chat. I sincerely wish you a safe and enjoyable Christmas, a relaxing summer break, and we look forward to some great Society moments with you next year. Slainte.

Andrew Derbidge ~ Director, Cellarmaster & NSW Manager

5 Questions for Jeremy Yung Our artist-in-residence for our bumper Outturn, Jeremy Yung (@dramanddraw on Instagram) created the artwork for the front and back cover of this issue of Outturn. We sat down with Jeremy to ask him five quick fire questions: What's in your glass? I've got a little dram of 26.145 'Mood Lifting Sanctuary' from the 2020 The Gathering. I don't remember which distillery this is; but it's light, grassy and musty. Unripe granny smith apples and chewing on a bundle of hay. Bourbon casks aren't normally my thing but this one is growing on me. Where did your whisky journey begin? In 2018 I was out of a job. Naturally, I was drinking at the pub and I bumped into a couple of friends of mine who worked at Lark. They said they were looking for people at the cellar door. I applied, did a job interview and in the interview they asked me what my favourite day-today whisky was. I told them "I don't drink whisky but I can if you want me to". They hired me and I drank every single one of those whiskies on the back bar. I fell in love with whisky and from there, it's history. Where did your passion for drawing begin? Not really sure. I've always drawn stuff. I just remember it was the only thing I was actually good at. I went to art school and got a degree in painting but fine art wasn't for me. I stopped painting and spent

a few years doing random jobs. I started drawing again when I started drinking whisky. What's the connection between whisky and art? When I worked at the Lark Cellar Door I would go in on my days off and get a dram of something I thought was awesome and do a sketch of the bottle. People that work in the industry started asking for commissions and I would charge them a bottle of whatever I was sketching. It was like drawing whisky that would become real. And then I would drink it. How did you come up with the cover for this Outturn? I spent a day coming up with ideas that were way too conceptual. One of the ideas was to draw the names of 2021 SMWS releases. I pitched the ideas to Matt and he said "Keep it fun, light, festive and throw in some of those summer aspects of Australian life here and there so we know it's Australian". So I drew some Aussie animals having a good time at the beach and an Ibis on the back for the SMWS. You can see more of Jeremy’s work on Instagram as @ dramanddraw

MALT OF THE MONTH

NO. 1

Welcome Cask 35.292 Crackers and breeze! Summer dramming is all about lighter styles, summery casks, garden cocktails, or some cheese and crackers and a dram to share. Cask 35.292 is from a distillery that’s no stranger to the Society, but rarely seen in this flavour profile and at this age. Notes of white pepper, toasted cereals, crushed green leaves and a kind of summery sea breeze with some downtime by the beach.

CRACKERS AND BREEZE LIGHT & DELICATE CASK NO. 35.292

$135.00

REDUCED FROM $165 Limit of one bottle per Member

T MALTHE OF NTH MO

REGION

Speyside

CASK TYPE

1st fill bourbon barrel

AGE

7 years

DATE DISTILLED

1 August 2013

OUTTURN

188 bottles

ABV

59.2%

AUS ALLOCATION 62 bottles A brusque and lively youngster, the nose bristled with white pepper, toasted cereals, canvas, pollens and warm greenhouses. Lots of crushed green leaves, rapeseed oil, water crackers and leavened bread. Water brought out touches of miso, butterbean hummus, grassy olive oil, starched linens and bouquet garni of dried herbs. The neat palate displayed the richness of buttered oatcakes, digestive biscuits, flower honey, cut grass, yellow wildflowers and sharp young calvados. With reduction we got green, cider apple acidity along with more pollens, honey and nectars, then mineral oils, cereals and sweet barley extract.

JENNY FORREST, SA MANAGER

njoying an aged cheddar with a peated or rich and mellow whisky is a flavoursome end to an evening many of us have frequently savoured. The addition of dark chocolate and dried fruits also enhances our contentment, especially during the cooler months. I’ve found though that not as many of us reach for a whisky and cheese pairing for summer brunches or festive aperitif occasions. I’d like to challenge you to change that! The Society has many whiskies in the Young and spritely or Juicy, oak and vanilla flavour profiles that come into their own when enjoyed with a soft cheese. These lighter cheeses, with their soft creamy textures and flavours have become regulars on my cheese boards. I believe the coming festive times and balmy summer days are ideal for these pairings. The SMWS barrel aged gins also offer an enjoyable and lighter style of spirit for the summer months. I encourage you to indulge in what, for many of you, may be something new.

One of my favourite soft cheeses is the incredible Brillat Savarin. This white mould cheese from Ile de France is made from cows milk and is aged for only about 6 weeks. This triple-cream cheese was created in the 1930’s by Henri Androuet and named after the renowned 18th century food writer, Brillat-Savarin. The cheese is mild in flavour when young, but develops rich, complex flavours that

pair brilliantly with whisky or even the Society’s barrel aged gins. Unlike many camemberts or Bries, which have very buttery flavours that often don’t pair well with whisky, the Brillat-Savarin is clean and fresh on the palate. When served with crisp wafers and summer fruits, like fragrant strawberries or luscious figs, this cheese is a really delicious way to start any social occasion.

The cheese is mild in flavour when young, but develops rich, complex flavours that pair brilliantly with whisky or even the Society’s barrel aged gins.

Expand your horizons Enjoy the warmer weather, some lighter whiskies, like our Malt of the Month, and a couple of delicious, gooey cheeses or a stunning naturally smoked Australian treat with those you love.

And if you love your chocolate, this white mould cheese is a stunning centre piece when you slice the round in half horizontally and slather a soft chocolate ganache (roughly equal parts melted dark chocolate and cream - add a slurp of whisky if you like, too!) onto the cheese, before topping it with the other half of cheese. Do this while the cheese is cold from the fridge, then let it come to room temperature for maximum flavour, by removing it about an hour before serving. I promise you, it looks and tastes sensational; an unusual departure from your regular cheese and crackers! With a whisky, this is surely a match made in heaven. 10

I’ve also found Creameux D’Argental, another cow’s milk white mould cheese from the Rhone-Alps region in France, pairs wonderfully with Society whiskies and our barrel-aged gins. This cheese comes from a company that pioneered the use of ultra-filtration in cheese making. This process has various outcomes, including accelerating cheese maturation and removing some water. This concentrates the milk and also helps create a lusciously creamy mouthfeel. Aged for approximately two months, this cheese exhibits an oozing creamy texture with delicate mushroom aromas when ripe. It becomes silky and super spreadable with a hint of nutty sweetness - perfect with a whisky cocktail or dram. Serve with wafers or crusty bread or even snow peas or vegetable crudités. Have some fun experimenting with your whiskies and these two soft cheeses over the coming months. Another cheese, available not only in specialty cheese outlets, but also in many supermarkets, is the King Island Dairy’s Stokes Point smoked cheddar. This hard cheese is produced from some of the sweetest milk in the world produced by the King Island cows that graze on the wind-swept pastures. They supplement

their rich diet with the occasional nibble of kelp washed ashore after heavy storms. The cheese, named after the most southern tip of the island, closest to north-western Tasmania, is matured for around 9-12 months, then naturally smoked with Tasmanian hardwood. The golden rind created during smoking acts as a natural preservative. The cheese has an open smooth texture, light smoky flavour and creamy mouthfeel. It is a wonderful accompaniment to a whisky from the oily and coastal or sweet, fruity and mellow flavour profiles. It also pairs well with lightly peated whiskies, especially any cask from distillery 53. Be assured, our cheese platters here in Adelaide will be celebrating the ancient crafts of cheese and whisky this summer.

Jenny Forrest ~ SA State Manager, Scotch Malt Whisky Society

BRAZILIAN BEACH HAMMOCK SUNDOWNER LIGHT & DELICATE

EASY-PEASY, … ! JUICY, OAK & VANILLA

CASK NO. 28.50

$205.00

CASK NO. 80.20

$155.00

REGION

Highland

REGION

Speyside

CASK TYPE

Refill bourbon barrel

CASK TYPE

1st fill bourbon hogshead

AGE

15 years

AGE

8 years

DATE DISTILLED

24 March 2005

DATE DISTILLED

16 January 2012

OUTTURN

226 bottles

OUTTURN

268 bottles

ABV

55.1%

ABV

59.7%

AUS ALLOCATION 24 bottles

The nose was fresh as a scrubbed-up cherub – we were transported to a summer picnic– cut grass, lush green foliage, green apples and lemons, Vinho Verde, lilac blossoms and vanilla fudge. The palate had fabulous tongue-tingling zestiness – cart-loads of summer fruits – peach, nectarine, cherry, Pimm’s Cup and lemony chamomile tea on the lawn – complicated by sweet malty notes, cinnamon and eucalyptus. The reduced nose continued with floral and fruity perfumes – lemonade, ginger beer and mint tea by the lakeside – or a sundowner Caipirinha on a Brazilian beach hammock. The palate now found pineapple, sweet chilli, marzipan and a satsuma citric tang.

We were busy in the kitchen making lemon confit using olive and canola oil with a pinch of salt as well as white chocolate coconut fudge and vanilla custard. Well rounded on the palate neat, a beautiful sweetness; vanilla cream, marshmallows and coconut candy while in the finish a ginger Jaffa cake trifle. With a drop of water we were transported to a meadow in summer picking berries and a gentle breeze carried aromas from nearby gorse bushes and the pine forest. The taste was like ginger turmeric lemon cream slices; so delicate, fluffy, lightly sweet and incredibly creamy, coupled with the tart and zingy lemon bottom layer it was a perfect accompaniment.

CAKE BENEATH A PEACH TREE

OKAY OAKY

JUICY, OAK & VANILLA

CASK NO. 48.123

CASK NO. G15.10

$155.00

REGION

Speyside

REGION

Highland

CASK TYPE

1st fill bourbon barrel

CASK TYPE

2nd fill bourbon barrel

AGE

8 years

AGE

10 years

DATE DISTILLED

12 November 2012

DATE DISTILLED

17 December 2009

OUTTURN

220 bottles

OUTTURN

201 bottles

ABV

60.8%

ABV

57.1%

AUS ALLOCATION 30 bottles

AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles

Welcomed by a sweetly fragrant nose of jasmine, rose petals and lily of the valley we gently moved towards tinned peaches in syrup, vanilla sponge cake and rhubarb and custard sweets. A tingly mouthfeel of crystallised ginger and strawberry sherbet surrounded nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves before the arrival of green apples, gooseberries and fresh sawdust. Fragrant aromas remained with water but were now joined by the juicy fruits of pineapple, dried mango and pears in golden syrup. Fresh coconut and oak combined with a green sourness as we moved onto the palate bound by popcorn, vanilla and tropical juice. However, care should be taken with water as we found it to accentuate the firm grip of dry and woody tannins.

This gives an initial characteristic collection of aromatics – banana chips, bubble-gum and glue, which slowly deepen to pastis and menthol; it also has sweetness (white chocolate) and citrus notes (orange barley sugars, lemon zest). The palate is lovely and sweet with rich textures– hazelnut chocolate spread, condensed milk and mashed bananas, with notes of bourbon and menthol-scented wood on the finish. On the reduced nose, syrupy fruit salad, Jaffa cakes, honey and marzipan are contrasted with crystallised ginger, coconut and fresh oak. The palate becomes totally mouthwatering, with peaches, pear juice, pineapples and melon balls. The afterglow is oak and vanilla.

MALT OF THE MONTH

NO. 2

Distilled at the turn of the millennium, Cask 4.266 The dark lord of Stromness is an Orkney beast from a distillery rarely seen in single cask form. After 20 years of ageing in a 1st-fill ex-bourbon barrel, this sphagnum moss and heathery example of complexity was approved by our tasting panel as a phenomenal example of Orcadian peat and complexity. With an astonishing aroma that will transport you to another world, the full tasting notes on this include fragrant bonfire embers, sandalwood, gorse flowers and an old-school charm of this distillate’s delicate yet powerful heart.

THE DARK LORD OF STROMNESS LIGHTLY PEATED CASK NO. 4.266

$429.00

REDUCED FROM $499

M MIUING E R P T TL BO

REGION

Highland

CASK TYPE

1st fill bourbon barrel

AGE

20 years

DATE DISTILLED

2 June 2000

OUTTURN

202 bottles

ABV

58.1%

AUS ALLOCATION 54 bottles Frankly, an astonishing aroma. Dense, powerful, controlled and vividly complex. A collision of medicines, honey and pure, churning seawater. We noted putty, lime curd, natural tar and ancient herbal extracts and ointments. Cough syrups, fragrant beach bonfire embers, sandalwood, gorse flowers. Dazzling, old style and profoundly beautiful. Water sharpened the minerality and brought a pure, brilliant streak of seashore freshness. Then new leather, salted liquorice, rooty Orcadian peat and fragrant waxes. The palate opened with a rush of gloriously sweet, oldschool peat. Thick, oily and tinged with herbs. Beyond that natural tar, anthracite soot, wintergreen and bog myrtle. With water it disappears into a perfect event horizon of power, complexity, depth, texture and poise. Smoked teas, dried seaweed, horseradish, black pepper, gauze, heather honey and camphor. Recalls to mind an ancient style of Orkney malt - even flashes of a long lost legend…

WELCOME DISTILLERY 149! It’s been yet another year of firsts at the Society as we continue to break new ground for members…and it’s always exciting when a new distillery enters the Society family. Distillery 149 is one of the more remote and difficult distilleries in Scotland to travel to, although the journey, scenery, and spirit are well worth the effort. Although the parent company has whisky roots back to 1826, distillery 149 only started up in 2014 – and yet it has already earned a strong and enviable reputation for developing well-matured whiskies at younger ages. Our first offering from 149 – yes, a “dot one” – is a peated and sherried affair that punches well above its weight. With tasting notes of beech-smoked beer, sourdough bread, salted caramel cheesecake, and strawberry fruit rollups, this is a textural dram unlike any other. After this year’s .1 releases of 147 and 148, we’re super excited to present to Aussie members Cask 149.1. This bottling will be by ballot entry and only available to SMWS members. To enter the ballot go to the bottling on the shop page.

SMOKY, SALTY AND MALTY PEATED CASK NO. 149.1

$199.00

ONE DOT ASK C

REGION

Highland

CASK TYPE

1st fill Spanish oak Oloroso butt

AGE

5 years

DATE DISTILLED

14 September 2015

OUTTURN

636 bottles

ABV

61.5%

AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles Smoky, salty and malty – a beech smoked beer with fresh lime zest, orange peel, coriander seed and a pinch of sea salt. On the palate, big on the peat smoke but nicely balanced by mixed spices, blackberries, sourdough bread and sweet potato gnocchi with samphire. With a drop of water, we could literally smell the sea with a trawler and a Clyde Puffer in the distance as well as the ferry coming from Tobermory to the slipway at Kilchoan. An amazing texture - creamy salted caramel cheesecake, homemade strawberry fruit rollups and in the long finish an exciting exotic smoky incense combined with sandalwood and coconut.

VAULTS COLLECTION Bare-boned, vivid, tautly structured and hauntingly complex. Distillery 24 has earned a cult-like status in the Scotch whisky world which has resonated for decades as one of the most desirable single malts on earth. Small stills, tight cut points, and long maturation make for some of the most revered spirit on earth reserved for special occasions. Cask 24.143 passed by the expert tasting panel and placed in the Spicy & Dry flavour profile is a 30 year old single cask in the rarest of configurations: a long-aged, un-sherried example of this legendary make. Popping this after lunch this festive season might be what you need after a wild year.

SUBSTANCE OVER STYLE SPICY & DRY CASK NO. 24.143

$2,950.00

REGION CASK TYPE AGE DATE DISTILLED OUTTURN ABV AUS ALLOCATION

Speyside Refill bourbon barrel 30 years 11 October 1989 169 bottles 48.6% 12 bottles

We found ourselves very close to the naked heart of this traditionally sherry-cloaked distillate. A world of crushed oatcakes, buttermilk, barley water, pollen-laden yellow flowers, greengage plums, plush cereals, velvety white fruit jams and longaged dessert wines. Fragrant, complex and extremely beautiful. With water we noted freshly milled grist, cooling wort, autolytic sourdough starter, honey cake and an elevated floral complexity. The palate opened with heather honey and milk bottle sweets. A natural, spirit-driven sweetness full of mango pudding, lactic stout ales, brioche, sultanas and flambeed banana drizzled with vanilla extract. With dilution came thicker and stodgier notes of olive oil cake, Victoria sponge, the warmth of English mustard powder, spiced custard, orange blossom, dried mint and a mouth-filling waxiness.

The T sl w drinker BY MATT WOOLER

here is an abstract phrase I use often in tastings. "Be the slow drinker". Slow down. Drink better. Drink less. This is not some evangelistic preaching of avoiding a good tipple. Hell no. Neither is it to say you actually should buy less (especially when it comes to SMWS releases because, come on, is that even possible?), and or spend more coin on subjectively viewed better quality (take the current prices of recent SMWS Malt of the Months which are priced almost ridiculously low in comparison to other well known brands). No, what it hints at is by slowing down and applying appreciative enquiry you simply don't need anything else but what it is in your glass for satisfaction. Let's put this in perspective and round back on the discussion later.

Have you had those moments early in your whisky journey when a whisky just stops you in your tracks? Bam! It (the whisky) has not even made it to your lips and you find yourself just slowing down. Sure you have. Have you asked why? The earliest time I genuinely remember having this experience was with the Octomore 1.1. I was blown away by it. I did not want to taste the whisky incase I lost that moment. The sheer complexity of youth. Yes, you heard it right, I said complexity of youth. It was not the peat. It never was and I wager peat is secondary in what that whisky offered. Peat was the marketing but sensory engineering was the crowning achievement. At the time of tasting I had little concept of what peat was at that stage, truly. It was an experience from end to end. It slowed me down. I fretted at the concept this experience was going to end and it was only at a tasting! That was a moment. The moment that changed my entire approach to alcohol but it did not change what I drunk, how I spent my dollars, or what I chose to consume on a regular basis. We see the newbie at tastings all the time. Determined to taste as many things as possible, as quickly as possible, as often as possible. That is an exciting time for the whisky grommets so don't begrudge them for diving in head first. Hell, I did. The concept of the "whisky smorgasbord" at a spirts expo... mind blowing! Take it to the next level and we certainly see our share of the SMWS gromms wrangling in their first Outturn haul. Gotta open em' all. At some point though we all find ourselves slowing down even if we do not notice it. We take

ABOVE: Whisky fairs might be fast paced, but take your time and pace yourself.

our time and not just because we get technical with our spirits. Our knowledge is expanded, sure, and our palates are developing and we even use the term “smooth” less but that still is not it. What is going on is simply start taking notice of when, where and how we enjoy our whisky and by realising that we become "the slow drinker". Boss level achieved. Don't go shaving your heads, though, just because you have reached enlightenment. I mean, who wants to be Tripitaka when you can be Monkey "Great Sage, Equal of Heaven" instead. Even Gokū slowly edged towards enlightenment. Hand me a bottle of Jack Daniel's and I will make it last as long or

as short as a Society cask from distillery 66. Build your own appreciative enquiry into what you drink. Care less for where it came from and spend more time with what it is saying to you. I'll finish by reflecting on what matters most in this Outturn. SMWS is about flavour. We see this not only in the way the colour codes work but also in how they are chosen, to how they are named. Age? Well, you can take it or leave it, as it is just the background noise, as is the distillery name itself. This by engineered nature is slowing down the experie.nce and driving enquiry to what actually matters (at least to me). So I say it again "be the slow drinker”.

BELOW: A cask that necessitated slow drinking, C2.1 from a few years ago.

Matt Wooler ~ Matt is a long-term member and appreciator of the Society and has regularly showcased the Society at his own tastings through Dramnation as well as regularly hosting Society events in Sydney.

VAULTS COLLECTION Can you see the paps of Jura from here? You just might be transported to the deer island on the inner hebrides of Scotland with a dram of 31.38 in your glass. Something truly magical happens to the spirit from distillery 31 with considerable age in the cask. Younger core-range examples often come across with notes of bitter cheese, or can be described as being lactic or even metallic. However, after 32 years in oak, more specifically a special extra-maturation in ex-Sauternes, that bitey cheddar becomes an old wine cellar. Soft ripe fruits, mystical smoke, incredibly mellow and delicate earthy dried apricots and almond flakes. This is really special. A contemplative dram from another era rarely seen at this age. Pop this one open after the family have left the lunch scraps on Christmas day and take it all in.

SLIPPERS BY THE FIRE OLD & DIGNIFIED CASK NO. 31.38

$999.00

REGION CASK TYPE AGE DATE DISTILLED OUTTURN ABV AUS ALLOCATION

Highland 1st fill Sauternes barrique 32 years 27 September 1988 124 bottles 43.5% 18 bottles

The nose made us smile – marzipan, Medjool dates and Turkish delight sweetness, salted spiced nuts, distant smoke from a croft chimney and an artist’s paint-spattered palette. The taste was incredibly mellow and delicate – ripe mango, sweet smoke, earthy dried apricots and almond flakes, with a leather and grape skin, slightly tannic finish. The reduced nose had one panellist picking strawberries, another entering a deli, while a third was in slippers, enjoying buttered crumpets and dark honey. The reduced palate was amazingly gentle and subtle, with tropical fruit syrupy sweetness. After 27 years in ex-bourbon wood, we transferred this into a first-fill Sauternes barrique.

More browsing the shelves

Classic Whisky Books MURRAY HASSAN

Like bottlings, books on whisky are now so numerous it is hard to keep up. Every month another whisky book is released, or so it seems. While these new titles are often interesting and valuable, just like rediscovering an old favourite dram, I think it’s always worth revisiting (or taking a first look at) some of the classics of whisky literature.

o, why have I chosen these three books? Many whisky writers have mentioned or referenced these books in articles, blog posts, or other books. But people often wonder if they have any relevance to the whisky scene of today, given they were written long ago. Although many recent publications get deep into technical or specific details about whisky, books published in the late 19th and early 20th Century drew attention to the cultural side of whisky and its role in Scottish identity. Two titles here are very much in this vein. One such book is Whisky by Aeneas MacDonald. First published in 1930, it has been through multiple reprints and re-publications. It is a concise yet emotive tribute to the national drink of Scotland, revealing how whisky evolved into a keystone of Scottish culture. In explaining this evolution, MacDonald weaves fascinating tales of whisky makers, whisky drinkers, and many other characters. The author clearly loves his whisky and is deeply passionate about Scotland and what it means to be Scottish. For someone with such enthusiasm for Scotland and its drink, one might expect him to have written more in this area. There is only one book with his name, and in looking for more on Aeneas MacDonald…his name disappears, much like the angels’ share. For there was no Aeneas MacDonald; rather, it was the

pseudonym of one George Malcolm Thomson, born of Leith (like the SMWS) and Edinburgh. Thomson was a journalist and one of the founders of the publishing house Porpoise Press. Aside from Whisky, Porpoise Press published works on Scottish culture, literature, and poetry. The story goes that he chose the name Aeneas MacDonald in a patriotic move, as the real Aeneas was a real and notable person in Scotland’s past. However, there is another side: Thomson had relatives who were vehemently opposed to alcohol; disguising his identity may have avoided some awkward conversations! Why then should someone pick up and read this classic of whisky literature? Although the language may seem antiquated, or perhaps a bit over-the-top for our cynical times, Whisky describes a time in Scotland’s history when whisky was at the heart of many communities. Sketches of characters who chanced and sometimes won, sometimes lost. Whisky is a window into the places and distilleries we know by name…and of course, the whisky they made.

Porpoise Press also published Whisky and Scotland, by Neil M. Gunn in 1935. Neil Miller Gunn was born in Caithness, an area of north-east Scotland that also hosts Pulteney distillery. Distilleries featured in his life and his writing; although he wrote short stories and novels from around 1910, his day job for many years was as a customs and excise officer stationed in distilleries across the Highlands. Neil M. Gunn wrote about Highland life as he lived and observed it, aspiring to document the unique people and varied places of the Scottish Highlands. Whisky and Scotland is in three parts: part one is a brief early history of Scotland and the evolution of Uisgebeatha into whisky. As Gunn was a novelist, it is not written like an essay or a timeline history; rather more like a conversation, placing the reader as an unseen witness to these events. Part two continues this conversation, this time turning attention to the spirit, the people who make it and why they make it. He invites you into the homes and lives of anonymous families,

Although many recent publications get deep into technical or specific details about whisky, books published in the late 19th and early 20th Century drew attention to the cultural side of whisky and its role in Scottish identity.

In effect, Barnard pioneered whisky tourism, taking his readers on a journey around the UK’s whisky distilleries.

presumably based on people he met and knew in his travels. Part three, titled “Whisky”, is about the production side of whisky and the places he knew well as an excise officer: the distilleries. Less conversational here, he writes of the process, methods and choices made by different distilleries. The storyteller is never far away though: in one anecdote about tasting a whisky claimed to be 104 years old, Gunn is rather prosaic (and sceptical) about said claim! So, to ask again: why read this classic of whisky literature? Simply, it’s one of the most entertaining books on whisky to pick up and read. As he was an excise officer, Neil M. Gunn was uniquely placed to write about the production of whisky at a detailed level; for that alone it is valuable. Gunn is not short of opinions and political views, and freely 24

peppers them throughout Whisky and Scotland. But that opinionated spice makes this book more interesting; as a work that portrays whisky-making, the places, and critically, the Scottish people and identity between the wars, this is indeed a classic. The last book is different to the first two, in that it is less about the Scottish people and culture, and more about the places where this magical liquid is made. Its place in whisky literature is such that the full title is rarely used, and is often referred to by only the author’s last name: Barnard. I am referring to The Whisky Distilleries of the United Kingdom, by Alfred Barnard. This considerable work, first published in 1887, is a comprehensive review of the distilleries producing whisky across the United Kingdom at that time, including Scotland, Ireland, and England. Alfred Barnard had a diverse career, holding jobs selling soap, working in the wine trade, and journalism. In 1885, Barnard was the secretary for Harper’s Weekly Gazette, a journal used by the wine and spirit trade. He was determined to visit all whisky distilleries across the United Kingdom, documenting for the readers of Harper’s Gazette the expanding whisky industry, providing what we might now call a “deep-dive” (although I despise that term!) into the production, distillery operations and the bottlings produced.

To that end, he toured every distillery in operation at that time, and described in immense detail the capacity, buildings, people employed, even process specifics like fermentation times. This was the first time that this level of detail about the whisky industry and its operations had been documented by anyone. In effect, Barnard pioneered whisky tourism, taking his readers on a journey around the UK’s whisky distilleries. He also came along at just the right time: the late 1800s was a boomtime for the whisky scene, almost like a whisky dot-com boom. However, all good things come to an end, and by the early 1900s the whisky industry, especially in Scotland, was greatly altered. Barnard detailed many distilleries that are now lost forever. Why would a modern reader want to take in this considerable book, noting that it is 450 pages? Well, apart from being a veritable goldmine of whisky history and details, Barnard was an eloquent and descriptive writer and being a journalist, he understood how to keep a reader’s attention. In these uncertain times where travel is curtailed, Barnard is enjoyable armchair tourism. If you are looking for this book, may I suggest the most recent reprint from 2008. There are some excellent illustrations and other articles written by Barnard. I hope you’ve enjoyed a meander through a few classics of whisky literature, and why they still hold relevance to readers and whisky lovers today. There are many other titles considered to be classics, and I’m keen to know what whisky books people have found useful or insightful. You can find me on social media, @MuzzMan78. Happy dramming and reading to everyone!

Murray Hassan ~ Long-term member, panelist, and book geek. You can catch Murray on our YouTube channel regularly talking books on livestreams, or at one of our Sydney events.

ENCASED IN LEATHER DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS CASK NO. 35.271

$450.00 REGION

Speyside

CASK TYPE

1st fill toasted hogshead

AGE

25 years

DATE DISTILLED

24 November 1994

OUTTURN

230 bottles

ABV

56.4%

AUS ALLOCATION

36 bottles

M MIUING E R P T TL BO Y USL O I V R PRE ARTNE LY P ON BAR

Soft leather wrapped around toasted pine nuts, almonds and praline before teasing us with dried prunes, bruised apples and a silky layer of linseed oil. Then notes of coffee and molasses combined with dark chocolate on a bed of baked orange skin and walnuts. A dash of water brought a sensual synthesis of plums, pine nuts and salted caramel between silky sheets of cinnamon butter and fudge. Figs, prunes and hazelnuts suggested dry oloroso sherry with a rich complexity that balanced fine oak with oxidised orchard fruits. An everlasting finish wrapped us in nutmeg and allspice, tingling the tongue with cloves and ginger biscuits before falling back into soft leather and oak.

SANTA’S DRAM SACK! Here’s something we kept quiet this year: We’ve been squirrelling away just about one of each dram from every virtual tasting this year. Yes, that’s literally DOZENS of samples we’ve secretly been keeping aside from each monthly set, to give away to one lucky member. It’s Santa’s ultimate advent calendar bag of goodies to enjoy over summer or the full year ahead.

This one-of-a-kind massive red gift bag absolutely heaving with samples could be yours, and someone has to win this!

HOW TO TAKE THIS HOME:

Join the Society between 01/11/21 and 31/12/21. Already a member? Refer a friend to join and you’ll also go in the draw. Simple as that! Winner will be randomly drawn on a livestream in the first week of January 2022.

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3. A hashtag used to celebrate a cask type 4. The name of our new Partner Bar in Hobart 6. The first name of the artist who created this month's cover 7. Seen most weeks on our YouTube channel 8. Our big live music & drams livestream earlier this year 12. The brewery we created a special beer with in 2021 13. The Society was founded in 1983 in... 15. The distillery that started it all 16. The first Australian distillery bottled by the SMWS 17. Melbourne Partner Bar Whisky & .......

1. Our members-only digital magazine 2. The rarest SMWS range on offer 5. The chocolatier we partnered with in 2020 and 2021 9. The founder of the SMWS 10. Our monthly offering of casks is called 11. The spiritual home of the SMWS 14. The colour of our bottles

THE YEAR THAT WAS

OUR 2021 SHARED TOGETHER 28

TAG US @SMWS_AUS

WRITTEN BY ALEX MOORES

The Society’s history is written in whisky, and introducing the world to high quality single cask spirit. However, hand in hand with the creative approach to whisky was a creative approach to many things, including member engagement and the promotion of bottlings. Not surprisingly, fine arts played an important role in the development of the Society, not just in branding but also in collaborations and partnerships that greatly enhanced the overall experience.

The Early Years

one will argue that the Society’s history with art began with Mr Bob Dewar. When the Society formally began in 1983, Bob was a political cartoonist for The Scotsman, as well as an iconic illustrator. After being introduced to the Society by a colleague, his involvement began as a result of something else that would become emblematic of the SMWS: the code system. Much like unique bottle names being introduced to give members an idea of what was in the bottle, Bob began illustrating the Bottling Lists (the precursor to Outturns) to provide a visual representation of the whisky’s character. Each one was based on a flavour note plucked from the Panel’s comments and sat next to the cask code for members to enjoy, something he referred to as a visual mnemonic. Bob became a sort of artist-inresidence, short of actually living in the Vaults. His style became quite synonymous with Society livery, and all literature and packaging had a touch of Dewar. The Society turned 15 in 1998 and decided it was time to

immortalise both Bob’s legacy and the art itself with the painting of the Vaults ceiling. Such was the trust they had in the artist that he was given carte blanche to create his Sistine Chapel and worked up a history of whisky from illicit distillation to the formation of the Society lacing its way around the cornices of the historic building. Originally hand drawn, after the roof was damaged the original work was digitised and reprinted in 2015, and visitors can be seen to this day pacing around the main Members’ Room staring skyward with a dram in hand.

ABOVE: The newly redesigned Queen St with new art on the walls.

Out of One, Many From one artist to many in a single brushstroke, in 2005 the Society embarked on an ambitious project to pair writers with artists and present them with Society casks to inspire a collaboration piece known as the 26 Malts Collection. The sets were accompanied by a book that featured the text and illustrations showing the incredible variety of designs, from stylised fonts and whisky glasses to a Venus de Milo and burlesque pin-up girls. One bottle was adorned with the words of a well-known contributor to the Society, Mr Charles Maclean, and another had both art and script by the same creator.1 Bob Dewar was still very much in the picture, providing the bottle design for the “With” series released in 2007.2 These bottles followed the design of a standalone released to mark the opening of the Queen Street venue in 2004,

which depicted a highly detailed drawing of the Georgian townhouse façade that has become like a beacon to members in Edinburgh.3 The box that accompanied the bottle was fully decorated with drawings of the interior and the roof. BELOW: Queen St member rooms artwork.

With cartoons, architectural drawing and the breadth of styles through the 26 Malts, the Society was embracing almost everything that the art world could offer. Around this time, the Society adopted a very Lewis Carroll approach to its literature, with mad tea parties, march hares, flamingos, pocket watches and top hats throughout the publications, which was predominantly under the art direction of Mr Charlie Gordon. Taglines related to being curious and discovering flavour, all part of an overarching message that Society members were on a journey together experiencing these drinks together. When it wasn’t through the looking glass, the Society would further emphasise the journey concept with cartography and tall ships to promote the importance of endeavour. This would remain prominent well into the future but would shift to astronauts and mountaineering at various points (the latter being very appropriate given Pip Hill’s history as a climber).

2.62, with words by Will Awdry and design by Rodney Mylius & Kyn Taylor; 2.63, with words by Richard Medrington and design by Chris Allen; 3.105, with words by Nick Copland and design by Gillian Thomas; 3.108, with words by Stuart Delves and design by Alan Ainsley; 3.109, with words by Alan Black and design by Ultan Coyle; 3.110, with words by Charles Maclean and design by Graham Scott; 4.104, with words by Victor Brierley and design by George Craigle; 24.86, with words and design by Aird McKinstrie; 26.40, with words by John Simmons and design by Harry Pearce; 26.42, with words by Neil Urquhart and design by Paul Sudron; 27.60, with words by Sara Sheridan and design by David Freer; 29.44, with words by Nick Asbury and design by Craig Barnes; 37.26, with words by Jamie Jauncey and design by Lucy Richards; 37.27, with words by Kate Patrick and design by Ron Burnett; 41.33, with words by Jules Horne and design by Nina Gronblom; 41.34, with words by Matthew Fitt and design by Damian Mullan; 44.29, with words by Ben Braber and design by John Tafe; 45.16, with words by Danny O'Rourke and design by Davinder Samrai; 53.92, with words by Chris Miller and design by Susanna Freedman; 55.15, with words by Martin Lee and design by Jeremy Scholfield; 64.8, with words by John Allert and design by Patrick Bergel; 64.9, with words by Sarah Burnett and design by Prem Reynolds; 66.19, with words by Elspeth Murray and design by Iain Valentine; 77.10, with words by Karen McCarthy and design by Chris Harrison; 77.11, with words by John Ormston and design by Mark Noë; and 122.10, with words by Roger Harberry and design by Rob Andrews. 2 7.36, representing “with words”; 39.58, representing “with food”; 125.11, representing “with music”; and 29.53, representing “with friends”. 3 114.3.

Bold Move on a Bold Code The ability to display art on the labels of SMWS bottles generally didn’t manifest until the changes to the Bold Code label in 2008. This provided a canvas for special editions to display illustrations and designs that related to the liquid within. It was a natural extension of the weird and wonderful names for bottlings to depict these concepts in a visual way, not generally but as an exception to the rule so that they really stood out among the other bottles.

The first of the zany Far Flung Flavours series was released in 2009, and the Society elected to channel the Rolling Stones tongue logo designed by John Pasche in the 1970.4 This may have been a nod to the rebelliousness of the Society’s approach to whisky as the logo has long stood as a statement of anti-authority and free expression. While very different in design, all were unified by the tongue and bright red lips. This was followed in 2010 by the second instalment of the Far Flung Flavours subtitled the “Pioneering Spirits”. This time there was no common theme other

BELOW: Cask 7.84 with Japanese artwork exclusive to the Japanese branch of the SMWS.

than big bold designs, with wacky images to represent the bottle names.5 The Japanese branch of the Society was one of the first to benefit from the new format label, with their twentieth anniversary in 2013 being commemorated by the release of four casks adorned with beautiful traditional art representing the four seasons. An excerpt was displayed in a vertical stripe on the left side, and frieze of the artwork around the neck of the bottle. The pieces were a collaboration with the Adachi Foundation for the Preservation of Woodcut Printing, which was acknowledged in different locations on the four expressions, and included fragments from prints by Hiroshige. Hiroshige was a Japanese artist who depicted many scenes with iconic Japanese cultural elements in the ukiyo-e style of printing. The four Society bottles selected prints from ‘One Hundred Famous Views of Edo’ and ‘Famous Views of the Sixty-odd Provinces’. Interestingly, the former collection was also divided into seasons and the bottles aligned with this, but no summer print was selected and the Society went instead to the Awa Province of the latter collection for the final bottle.6 These commemorative bottles began a long tradition in the Society of celebrating international branch anniversaries with bespoke and appropriately themed releases.

The ability to display art on the labels of SMWS bottles generally didn’t manifest until the changes to the Bold Code label in 2008. This provided a canvas for special editions to display illustrations and designs that related to the liquid within.

28.22, representing a sumo wrestler surfing a tongue wave; 4.136, representing a tongue pinball machine; and 24.108, representing a racecar careening down a tongue freeway in front of a cityscape. 53.142, representing a feminized knight’s helmet; 76.77, representing a witches brew and lollypops; and 27.84, representing a mirrored western canyon. 7.84, representing “Maple Trees at Mama, Tekona Shrine and Linked bridge”; 72.33, representing “Fukagawa Susaki and Jumantsubo”; 1.167, representing “Cherry blossoms in the Grove of Suijin Temple and View of Massaki on the Sumida River”; and 29.133, representing “Naruto Whirlpools at Awa Province”.

Further to the high prominence of Japanese art, the “ART Colours” series featured exclusively Japanese artist collaborations. Artwork was contributed by Ryosuke Yasumoto, Toshio Yanase. Chiaki Horikoshi and Junji Yamashita.7 The style of these artists is very different. For example, Yasumoto was born in 1954, lost his hearing as a child and went on to win both the Showa Award and the Yasui Award, and his contribution to the bottles was Miro the cat who watches him paint in his studio. Horikoshi on the other hand was born in 1943 and was influenced by both psychedelia and geometric form, so his contribution is a creative fusion of bright colours and bold lines. The Feis Ile special releases have always adorned some impressive artwork and, as the first two years were single releases only, they were in very different styles. The first an intricate dancing gypsy wreathed in flame and

the second a dark representation of a Mexican Día de los Muertos mask.8 The true importance of whisky festivals in the growth of bottle art did not truly become apparent until the following year.

In 2016, rather than commemorate a branch anniversary, the Society in Denmark launched the Danish Art Collection, and put a real focus on the artists themselves.

BELOW: Some of the 'red code' era artwork regularly seen in member communications.

7.110, 39.102, 3.214 and 53.204. 2.243 and 127.44. 35.167 and 66.149. 10 29.226 and 9.177. 8 9

In 2016, rather than commemorate a branch anniversary, the Society in Denmark launched the Danish Art Collection, and put a real focus on the artists themselves. To date the works commissioned have come from Jacob Rantzau9 and Michael Kvium10, taking it in turns to capture the essence of the whisky with their respective styles. Jacob Rantzau, a student of the old Danish masters, focuses on the immersion into whisky whether it be the barley or the water source, which are also themes explored in his non-Society works. Michael Kvium, whose style is more comic and parodies everything from Baroque masterpieces to western culture, required a little more interpretation for his first work. However, in his second instalment, also drew from nature as the guiding influence. All original pieces are proudly displayed in the SMWS venue in Vejle.

There were the occasional special editions for world events, with perhaps the most colourful label being in celebration of the 2014 FIFA World Cup in Brazil, very aptly named “Goooaaalll!!!!”

ABOVE: Current era special label design for the Glasgow venue launch.

Not be outdone for commemorative anniversary bottles, the Taiwan branch, which had only had a single special bottling released for its eighth anniversary (eight having special meaning in Chinese culture and the numeral itself forming the basis for the bottle design),11 revealed a special ten-bottle set for its tenth anniversary in 2016. The art pictured on each bottle was very different, ranging from an antique map of Formosa to a Lanyu canoe in traditional decoration of the Tao people of Orchid Island.12 There were photographs of floating lanterns, a dragon sculpture and Yushan, which is the regional home of Nantou Distillery that the Society would later bottle.13 In the field of graphic arts, there was a stylised zhao cai jin bao banner, cartoon zodiac year of the monkey and hand drawn landscape of Taipei 101.14 Finally, there were paintings of peony roses and plum blossom as flower emblems of Taiwan.15

There were the occasional special editions for world events, with perhaps the most colourful label being in celebration of the 2014 FIFA World Cup in Brazil, very aptly named “Goooaaalll!!!!” and drawn as a homage to both the FIFA official illustrations of that year and the famous Carnival.16 Sadly, for all efforts, the wonderful artist remains unknown. To further celebrate flavour, the Society engaged the services of Mr Steve Reid to create still lifestyle fantasy creations that were used throughout Society venues. Trees made of cotton candy and mountains of inverted ice-cream cones with campfires of fig and cinnamon sticks. A transition from Charlie Gordon’s hand drawn adventures in Wonderland, the Society went further down the rabbit hole into surrealist photography. Photos had been a big part of the SMWS venues for a while, but these would showcase more traditional imagery of whisky production, barrels and tastings.

29.156. 1.201 and 121.92. 39.129, 3.282 and 37.80. 14 29.193, 85.41 and 7.140. 15 35.160 and 50.86. 16 95.17. 17 10.113, 3.299 and 29.211. 18 3.307, 3.308, 10.141, 10.146, 29.241, 29.244, 53.248, 53.252, 9.143 and 107.13. 12 13

Colourful character creations The growth of the interest in (nay, demand for) Feis Ile special bottlings blossomed under the character label design rebrand, and allowed for more releases and more creativity. Under the stewardship of Helen Stewart, the Society’s senior brand manager, 2017 saw three Islay festival bottles showing some black and white scenes of Scottish nature with splashes of colour reminiscent of a Holi celebration, showing a flock of birds on the beach, a loch and a pair of sparring bucks respectively.17 This was followed by eight Feis Ile bottles in 2018, and two Spirit of Speyside festival bottles were introduced. All featured beautiful photography in a close up style to emphasise shapes and colours, rather than be immediately obvious as to the subject of the photo.18 These included boat rigging, fishing nets, peat bricks and the matted hair of a highland cow. Away from the festivals, the Japanese branch returned with some wonderful full artworks under the character label era, in commemoration of their 25th anniversary in 2018. There were four bottles, but in two unique styles. All were inspired by traditional Kabuki, but the first two were examples of 35

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bass, drums and piano respectively.23 A ritzy and Gatsby experience for all members fortunate enough to try the rare bottlings. The artwork style for the Nanatsumen masks was repeated for the Hong Kong branch, with the Four Heavenly Kings collection.24 These represent various legendary figures, and the facial makeup for each design Appeal, attraction, pull, draw, enticing yet unobtrusive. is taken from Peking Opera "Naotian pull, draw, enticing yet unobtru When Appeal, listeningattraction, to Niels-Henning Ørsted Pedersen, I am Appeal, Palace". The first was for the Chinese at When listening to Niels-Henning Pedersen, I immediately drawn into the music whenØrsted he sophisticatedl When li traction, pull ,d New Year special bottling in 2019, the stening immediately into thedram musicdoes when sophisti to Niels raw, enticing pulls the strings on drawn his bass. 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The monarchs themselves are g its w he way e s Peterson once said about Pedersen accompanying h Peterso ame. onderf bu n once named on the label in Mandarin. ul char said ab t is definitely acter, it there – out Ped China’s interest in meaningful ersen a just as Oscar ccomp artworks continued into special bottles anying him. for Chinese New Year that depicted lts ne ABOVE: Distillery 24 'Jazz Trio' from 2018 artwork. gle ma in 25 s g specific traditional paper cut, several fe ndin ife and m e astou threL! dneadrinwg singrlewh e y s festivals such as Whisky and Whisky e m h , u t y o ste Becke ast rivilegdee, afo r wife to tasome she thregrto able and tckpy, my sked f,o the Nanatsumen masks worn in Noh exclusive was released that echoed thsteer twhiteexclusive eaethe etsimply g o To beLuxe, t a a , a B s r g a e ege , wr withtookappeenain 19 able toy CoTaiwan t privailm m uopgle eTaonboethbranches. The second were sepia and the style the 2017 Feis Ile bottlings, to onvarious h etheagain r t g a t k Totheatre. be able to taste these three astounding single maltsofnext a h , t is s r d e a h e s w an ing a W noth h ouur pleo, n Yoand OkfycCoexclusives, uthTautbheappecnh: Od oftoTlion’s the brown lobster crates by the sea.22 halfthe of these oene ashare sc l.is u f k to calligraphic, one another,with together with colour Becky,ofmy dearrepresenting wife and female n e h a s it df cour seTaurbe an ryofth he W g. styles tou ul.nO e s T o v f ju e I r – A big year for the Japanese branch the Kumadori symbolizing a suddenly a had many different of design lf u Y ll a f n we h half of The Whisky Couple, was a great privilege, for which etytin youunda it o3z thankis ear t s5s wg.itIhfo lillnm usicrealvsersign juskb ?v5=oBuera7v – S_ teht.c ch wasasked as a big Yokai (a Japanese folk representation of at ht m e in r /w 8 t wea astreet a om 9 weappearing are very thankful. Of course that happening foryear the for the Society globally, rigfrom h 1 s s be y e l tou .ysou icatu w with atch?v5=B3z - tLto linmS_ wpwym p isom 20 er7v hiv ht tshhoantu ns:h// and am 2018 was celebrated with many monster andsetting. common Kabukiittrope). twelve flavour profiles rebe athe /w roa.y raight o aw thtp .cflowing 198 ood 30 m right musical I found on YouTube and more M e t ou iv lo L y w p S w g p n nans: a a stohtp hoThere ht terht Ins:the two bottles specialOscar bottlings for the 35th anniversary. Pestreams t tp ofh// abstract colour. arat26 ew for //wsame than happy to.yyear, share thisexclusive with you all – just search: ww outube 1985. oId Solo M and Dr n .c n om o nwin e s /w s e r r h at for a gowi e e ch t w d e standalone ?v=Berlin for Japan represented and Raijin One such set was the Macallan Jazz some fun bottlings for more e e k P 3z7vmS_ r P c , a D Peterson Solo MarathonFujin - Live 1985 ly kb5s ay b and seamle terson ,w esns in 1y9 ersenpartner Bne,rliPned njoy Pereasons, respectively, the gods of thunder and Trio, a rare departure from not naming including some Eeclectic in ewrasyfitback wdhistilm e ler o v m s r li r o e f g t r , e erlin afit sea le y Peands tone rEmnin einpB m 21 e o o jo f r r r f h s e Their depictions are slightly wind. the distillery openly. Each bottling was bar exclusives celebrating the r d p e e e Enjoy Peterson, Pedersen and Drew for a good 30 minutes, nd itg liv kies, eseouprecrform be sam id abois seic u oarminSdecisions yed fro a d fglobal r m is a r h e h t m h p altered versions of the deities as drawn done in a roaring twenties style of a w s landmark in respect of t e c it performing live in Berlin, way back when in 1985. I think sa , sou27r sic anrdless’. Thhiseksieasm g SM uW in may be the m eaW Tawaraya Sōtatsu. another traditional jazz band featuring a double stunnLove Equal bearing rainbow S w banner. thebymusic and its three Finally, performers fit seamlessly with three it ‘peM e same

A SWEET A SWEETSEDUCTION SEDUCTION

TION

! JJazaziznigngitiut pu!p! stunning SMWS whiskies, sourced from a distillery that calls its spirit ‘peerless’. The same may be said about this 19 wonderful trio! 73.100 andjazz 53.256. 20

Th spiring S ! ioit ‘peerless’. calls itsstunnja r t z z ir rful s sp wondecalls it z trio!r 2018 s & Ja rful jaz d Malt n18 wonde ga – Octobe a ) 9 0 0 0 ffrin z (2 er 2 alt y g&aJ–azOctob 2009) and M Hans O Whiskin r ( f f f z o z O r a AuthoHans ky & J of Whis Author

5.68 and 13.62. 35.195 and 9.136. 10.131. 23 24.134, 24.135 and 24.136. 24 24.131, representing Liu Tianjun; 66.152, representing Wen Tianjun; 30.107, representing Ma Tianjun; and 35.244, representing Zhao Tianjun. 25 7.190 in 2018, 53.260 in 2019, 95.30 in 2020 and 68.45 in 2021. 26 35.188, 39.164, 76.134, and 73.90 which was exclusive for membership renewals. 27 96.21. 21

Hans Offringa – October 2018 Author of Whisky & Jazz (2009) and Malts & Jazz (2012) 22

ABOVE & BELOW: Music and malts theme from 2021 plus Whisky With Character series from 2019.

Modern Days not Modern Art In a move which is pleasingly full circle, the Society engaged the services of Mr Mike Hall who possesses a unique and enthralling illustration style. Much like the resident artist feel of Bob Dewar, it was not long before Mike was illustrating the front cover of every Outturn and supplying characterful representations of the Tasting Panel names to be brazened across the front of almost all special edition bottlings. To date, Mike has done creations for the Festival releases (including all Feis Ile bottlings) from 2019 to 2021. Speaking finally of closing the circle, Japan had another exclusive bottling in 2019, this time with a more realist image of the Kamiiso-no-Torii on a rocky

outcrop by the sea, one of three gates making up the Oarai Isosaki Jinja Shrine (meaning the Gate of the Seashore God, this torii is in the myōjin or possibly hachiman structural style). Although in a more modern style and not the same location, the position and nature of the torii is reminiscent of the Yugasan torii on the Tanokuchi coast, which was the source of inspiration for the Bizen Province frieze by Hiroshige. Not to be left out, the American branch had several special releases, some very patriotic and playing off lines of the national anthem for their 25th anniversary,28 and some just representing the joys of friendship, flavour and sharing drams together, which were all beautifully high definition photographs.29 In recent years, the USA special editions are more commonly in

46.63. 3.315, 93.114 and 93.140.

the form of exclusive releases, and follow the design of the other releases allocated to different branches. The Society’s blended malt range, affectionately known as the Heresy Series, took label art to a new level, as all caution was thrown to the wind along with tradition, and full bottle labels with elaborate images were created to immediately distinguish

the vatting from the single malts. The first two, sequential editions of Exotic Cargo, were an elegant throwback to the designs of tall ships in members packs throughout the 2000s. The mandate for everything to follow would appear to be “go as bold and eye-catching as possible”, and the creative team at London-based Frank Design Associates and the three principal minds Andy

BELOW: Some of the stunning artworks selected for The Vaults.

Hall, Rick Webb and Lizzy Barnes have certainly met that brief. The venue special editions, previously identifiable by an underlying picture that had been overlaid with a refracting prism design as if viewed through a diamond30 (which was also used for the design of the Whisky Luxe 2017 bottling exclusive to Taiwan31), were replaced by Mr Hall’s creations. The new approach was twofold, either character based tableau with little Easter Egg references to the flavour notes for landmark occasions,32 or a tessellating image of all the key tastes and aromas for the annual releases.33

A Venue with a View It is tempting to focus on the labels and the designs of the promotional material as they are so ubiquitous in the lives of Society members, but it would be remiss not to discuss the great venues of the Society and more traditional art adorning the walls. For those who have been to the current Members’ Room at the Vaults, some of the most eyecatching pieces are the work of Mr Ron Chadwick. Two very different pieces, they have quite a lovely connection. The first is more obvious to most comedy fans, being the unmistakable form of the legendary John Cleese in the Ministry of Silly Walks sketch from Monty Python’s Flying Circus. A black and white piece painted in 2001, it celebrates Cleese midstep in a moment that became one of his most regretted characters in his career but instantly iconic.

...it would be remiss not to discuss the great venues of the Society and more traditional art adorning the walls.

4.228, 35.174, 73.85 and 84.19. 3.303. 7.227 and 35.243. 33 37.124, 68.42, 73.116 and 108.24. 31

The second is quite different, a man with his back to the artist inspects a Jackson Pollock-style painting on the wall of a gallery (already impressive as being a painting within a painting). The Pollock representation seems to be Chadwick merging the styles of “Convergence” and “Shimmering Substance”, as opposed to a more obvious era such as the painting which appears more like “No. 5” in Chadwick’s large format “Bikini Girls” in a very similar style. This may not seem to have much of a connection to the zany madcap humour of Monty Python, but on closer inspection of the bottom left corner is the name Anthony Aloysius St John Hancock adjacent the artist’s signature. Those fans of British comedy will recall that as the full name of Tony Hancock’s character in Hancock’s Half Hour, a formative comedy show from 1956. It is not known what the Society paid for this piece, but likely that it was very nearly an armful. There are some other beautiful pieces in building that used to be named the Whisky Museum, including a coastal village landscape by Mr Grant Boyd painted in 1988 and a large format 2.3m2 skyscape by Giddes Watt. The other venues are not to be left out, but generally have a more whiskyfocused subject matter. Some are overtly Society, with the iconic green bottle circular sculpture, defying gravity on the wall of the Queen Street dining room. The new Bath Street venue in Glasgow echoes this form in the pyramid of green bottles at the main bar, which serve a

BELOW: Bottlings in the shop at Queen St.

ABOVE: Artwork surrounds the downstairs bar in Queen St.

very practical purpose unlike its Queen Street counterpart. Glasgow also has decorative styles linking the Vaults and Greville Street, with cabinets for member-owned bottles and a consistent interior decoration style. Some members will recall the hunting lodge motif that was temporarily present at Devonshire Square. There is another lovely connection between Queen Street and Bath Street, which is the small-scale mural work of home-grown artist Robert Stevenson. Robert had no formal training as an artist being in the pub trade for over 25 years, but was identified by the Society and originally asked to design some wall art to coincide with the launch

of the Character Label and emphasis on the twelve flavour profiles. Woven into these colours are pencil drawing examples of famous Edinburgh landmarks and some apposite quotes. When Bath Street opened, it was natural for Robert to be asked to create similar works celebrating both whisky and Glasgow, with one such major piece depicting one of the unforgettable recumbent white granite lions guarding the George Square cenotaph carved by Ernest Gillick.

Trailblazing The beauty of a whisky bottle, or line-up thereof, has always been known in bars and households across the globe. The Society certainly emphasises this on the labels, but has a deeper connection to the art and the people who create it. Importantly, as a community of enthusiasts, the SMWS has been at the forefront of showcasing art and whisky since the beginning. Notwithstanding the value this has added to the membership, time will no doubt tell the contribution this has had to artistic design in the spirits industry.

Alex Moores ~ VIC State Manager, Scotch Malt Whisky Society 39

ONION TART AND YOUNG WHITE WINE OILY & COASTAL CASK NO. 18.33

$199.00 REGION

Speyside

CASK TYPE

1st fill rye hogshead

AGE

13 years

DATE DISTILLED

18 September 2007

OUTTURN

299 bottles

ABV

58.2%

AUS ALLOCATION

30 bottles

CIAL SPE NISH FI

We got ready for a hearty breakfast, salted caramel oats with mashed banana and chia seeds drizzled with a sweet caramel sauce and freshly pressed grapefruit juice. This was followed by olive and rosemary dark rye bread served with a cucumber yoghurt dip and a lemon and red chilli fiery relish. Diluted the aromas of salted caramel, cloudy old fashioned lemonade while on the palate salted brown butter Financiers and Zwiebelkuchen with a glass of Federweißer (onion tart and a young white wine from the recent harvest). After eleven years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, we transferred this whisky into a 1st fill hogshead which previously matured rye whisky.

THE DARK GOES OUT

GAMBAS A LA PLANCHA

OILY & COASTAL

CASK NO. 26.164

$170.00

CASK NO. 4.264

$199.00

REGION

Highland

REGION

Highland

CASK TYPE

1st fill bourbon barrel

CASK TYPE

1st fill bourbon barrel

AGE

7 years

AGE

12 years

DATE DISTILLED

16 October 2013

DATE DISTILLED

28 January 2008

OUTTURN

226 bottles

OUTTURN

254 bottles

ABV

63.0%

ABV

61.4%

AUS ALLOCATION 18 bottles

AUS ALLOCATION 24 bottles

A more tempestuous example of this legendary distillate. We found the nose initially prickling with antiseptic, bubble-gum, wind-lashed linens and canvass. Citronella wax, tutti fruit, dried seaweed in ramen broth and coal tar soap. Hefty but soothing and superbly ‘zen’. With water we got heather flowers, pollen, sooty coal hearths, wood embers and scrunched newspapers. Some bone dry riesling and wet beach pebbles. The palate was initially bright and awakening with tar acidity, zippy minerals, lemon-scented candles and cough medicines. A squeeze of herbal toothpaste and touches of beeswax. Water made it more herbal and wonderfully mouthcoating. Rich, malty fatness, mineral oils, custard made with sweet wines and a saline kiss of ozone in the aftertaste.

We cooked rainbow trout with lemony caper butter on the beach over a peat fire while we nibbled on slices of toasted coconut bread spread with a creamy pineapple jam made from singed cloves, thyme and sage. Water added more of the lemon juice and salt with barbequed pineapple slices drizzled with smoked Scottish seaweed. On the palate we were served gambas a la plancha – Spanish style grilled shrimp tapas, whole unpeeled shrimps salted then cooked quickly with lemon juice – pure, simply delicious! At nine years of age, we combined selected hogsheads from the same distillery into a variety of different casks to marry. This is one of those casks.

EXTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINE OILY & COASTAL

THIRST AID KIT PEATED

CASK NO. 93.160

$170.00

CASK NO. 42.63

$199.00

REGION

Campbeltown

REGION

Highland

CASK TYPE

1st fill bourbon barrel

CASK TYPE

Refill bourbon hogshead

AGE

9 years

AGE

13 years

DATE DISTILLED

4 October 2011

DATE DISTILLED

21 February 2008

OUTTURN

227 bottles

OUTTURN

164 bottles

ABV

59.2%

ABV

58.3%

AUS ALLOCATION 48 bottles Mint-tainted petrol and coconut oil provided high octane fuel before being joined by vanilla, cocoa nibs and clotted cream to oil the gears. Citrus oils and creamed coconut levels were high on the dipstick as we prepared apple juice, fresh lime and sea salt. After adding water and using cut peat for ignition, a bang and a splutter sounded an explosion of nutmeg, eucalyptus and camphor. The outburst detonated spicy medicinal notes and herbs on the tongue where they found balance among creamcovered fruit and vanilla. A fresh menthol character remained, cooling the exhaust fumes and merging with clams cooked in a white wine sauce on the finish.

AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles The initial nose was all about purity. A vivid and pin-sharp sea air and coastal character. Full of rock pools in the sun, dried kelp, seawater, beach sand, surf froth and fresh shellfish. Oyster sauce, grilling mackerel, mixed olive tapenade and smoked sea salt. Water brought a wealth of medical embrocations and citrus inclusions. TCP, dental mouth gel and antiseptic cream. The palate was initially dominated by black pepper, camphor and petrol. Then a fug of pure crystalline blue peat smoke. Some smoked chilli sauce, salty Dutch liquorice and Fisherman’s Friends. Reduction made it very saline with brine and fresh oysters smothered in lemon juice. Also flint smoke, crushed aspirin and mercurochrome.

My Summer Serve BY MIRANDA LIDGERWOOD FROM WHISKY & ALEMENT, PARTNER BAR

Where did your whisky journey begin? What started it all for you? It all started with a Laphroaig 10. Like many other whisky lovers out there, a heavily peated Islay single malt is what got me to really stop and think “how in the world did they get this to taste like that?!” I’ll be honest, I was (and sometimes still am) a smoker. I wanted to know why, and how, my whisky tasted like cigarettes - I loved it. My journey into peat had begun, and this lead me down a flavour-driven rabbit hole. I became utterly obsessed with understanding how different flavours were created in whisky. What different casks could do, cask treatments, different spirit cut points, fermentation techniques, the list goes on. The moment I realised that all the notes I had been hearing “Fruit cake, chocolate, rose petals, vanilla etc” are very real. They are chemical compounds, esters, derived from choices made during production and maturation, subjective to individual

palates, but very real. This was the moment. And excitingly, I was finally able look closer and begin to distinguish them myself. It was during my time at a bar in Melbourne’s north (George’s Bar) where it all started to kick off. I have been in the hospitality industry for over 10 years now, bars, since 2012, and this was the first time I had worked with a team who really encouraged my love of whisky. Unable to afford all the cool whiskies that I was curious about (we don’t get into bartending for the pay packet do we) this meant a lot. The Bar Manager, Brent had the job of trawling online auctions and stocking the backbar with unique whiskies, so when the bottles would arrive, Brent would take the time to sit with me, take me through the notes and train me on them, I’ll always be grateful for Brent and his generosity with his time and knowledge.

2021 has been one strange year, and W&A have managed to really adapt with you leading the events side. How has that been?

I have felt like one of the lucky ones this whole year, very lucky, but oh – the anxiety. I was able to continue working! But I’m working in an industry that is on its knees… In a bar that I love SO much! But that bar that is struggling through every week… It has been heartbreaking, but it has shown us that we are strong, and that the love for whisky, and for Whisky & Alement is stronger. We recognised very early on what needed to be done, and because of that we were one of the very first (if not the first) venues to offer virtual whisky tastings, all the way back in April 2020. 2021 has been incredible on the events side, the community is just unreal, and we have not stopped adapting. With a new audio visual set up, we are excited to launch hybrid events when the bar re-opens. This event format will see your presenter projected on the big screen, live in the Melbourne Whisky Room, to a room that is full of attendees! This means we will still get to enjoy the same high calibre of presenter we have had on virtual tastings, in the venue, and with friends.

03 Gathering and creating special experiences has morphed completely. What has been one of the unexpected positives to come from this? 44

One of the unexpected positives: the personability of people you always perceived as industry enigmas, untouchable and unreachable. Being able to connect with incredible whisky-minds from all over the world, and sharing these connections with our amazing whisky community. The most renowned personalities and producers in the world are only an email away from jumping online and sharing what they know. I have been shown that these people – people I have only read about - are just people, people that love whisky and the whisky industry, and want to do whatever they can to help. These virtual tastings have broken the ice, conversations usually reserved for the in-crowd sat in the back room of a cool bar, are being had online between all.

You've crafted your 'perfect summer serve' for members to try at home. What have you gone with and why?

148.1 APERA FOR EVERYONE! TALL, OVER ICE, WITH FEVER TREE SODA. Build like so: 45ml of whisky, ice to the top, then soda, leaving two fingers of space at the rim of the glass. I wanted to keep my Summer Serve honest, and simple. This is really what I drink in summer, and anyone can make it. From light, unpeated ex-bourbon cask matured whiskies, to heavily peated, cask driven brine-bombs. I’d wager that a highball made with almost any Scotch Malt Whisky Society single malt will be delicious, but when I saw this release on Outturn with notes of cherry chocolates and strawberry balsamic, it was a no brainer. Here are a few tips that will ensure your drink is delicious, no matter the base. • Mix with a soda water like Fever Tree, they use spring water with a low mineral content (avoids chalky aftertaste). • If you’re using a soda stream for at-home soda water, carbonate it to the highest degree, the oils and esters will dance on your tongue, you’ll thank me, • Try to go for a whisky with a higher ABV, this avoids ‘drowning’ it. • Play with the proportions of soda / spirit. Start with 30ml of soda and work up, you can always add but you can’t take away. • Keep the stirring to a minimum, and fill the glass to the top with ice. It may seem like less ice in your glass means your drink won’t dilute, right? This isn’t the case, more ice = colder everything = slower dilution.

What are you most looking forward to in 2022 and any other message for members traveling far and wide to again sit at the bar at Whisky & Alement?

I’m looking forward to the resurrection of my beloved hospitality industry. To spring after a long winter. To a crowded bar. To Friday night service when there is so much excited whisky-chatter that it turns into a low hum. To hear Lachie’s work playlists again, ‘Quiet and Warming’ all the way to ‘Packed to the Rafters,’ and to catch up with everyone

who I’ve been squinting at through a screen all year. My advice? Try to get a seat at the bar, and ask for recommendations from the friendly team. There were so many amazing whiskies added to the backbar during lockdown that we cannot wait to share and talk about. Also, I highly recommend booking in advance!

Miranda Lidgerwood ~ Whisky & Alement for the Scotch Malt Whisky Society

EFFORTLESSLY BOLD DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS CASK NO. 24.148

CIAL SPE NISH FI

MENTHOL MARMALADE DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS CASK NO. 1.241

CIAL SPE NISH FI

$175.00

$220.00

Limit of one bottle per Member

REGION

Speyside

CASK TYPE

1st fill Spanish oak Oloroso hogshead

AGE

12 years

DATE DISTILLED

13 October 2008

OUTTURN

335 bottles

ABV

63.4%

The colour was dark as was the aroma with the main scent of dark fruits such as blackberries, plums and black cherries next to a sweet tobacco note. Big on the palate like a prune porridge topped with toasted walnuts and plenty of cinnamon. Took water well but be careful with the amount. We were rewarded with violet flowers, leather and cocoa powder on the nose as we got served glace confit blood oranges chopped through a creamy coffee semifreddo tart with sweet figs, raisins and molasses. In 2018 we combined selected Oloroso butts before returning the single malt to a variety of different casks to develop further. This is one of those casks.

DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS CASK NO. 107.22

Speyside

CASK TYPE

1st fill Spanish oak Pedro Ximenez hogshead

AGE

7 years

DATE DISTILLED

26 February 2013

OUTTURN

200 bottles

ABV

61.2%

AUS ALLOCATION 60 bottles

AUS ALLOCATION 42 bottles

A DARK ABYSS OF BLISS

REGION

RA EXT URED MAT

$175.00

Aromas hit the nose faster than the senses could comprehend, as rich fruits merged with sweet fragrance. Tangerine, marmalade and apple crumble with custard danced alongside liquorice, creme brûlée and prunes soaked in armagnac before cinnamon and tobacco finally joined poached apricots. A big, chewy and rich palate embodied cloves, ginger and flambeed banana with molasses and hints of menthol. With water came an explosion of red cherries, wild strawberries and juniper berries wrapped in oils and waxes. Geraniums and tinned fruit salad morphed into pineapple and lemongrass on the palate with a fresh streak of wintergreen, cloves and menthol while brandy notes returned with coconut and heather honey on the finish. After spending five years in an ex-bourbon hogshead this was transferred to a first fill Spanish oak PX hogshead for the remainder of its maturation.

DRAGON’S BLOOD FRAGRANCE OIL DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS CASK NO. 30.113

CIAL SPE NISH FI

$160.00

REGION

Speyside

REGION

Speyside

CASK TYPE

2nd fill toasted butt

CASK TYPE

2nd fill Pedro Ximenez butt

AGE

9 years

AGE

7 years

DATE DISTILLED

4 April 2011

DATE DISTILLED

3 June 2013

OUTTURN

585 bottles

OUTTURN

595 bottles

ABV

66.1%

ABV

67.8%

AUS ALLOCATION 48 bottles

AUS ALLOCATION 54 bottles

Rich and toasty aromas of teacakes and toffee combined with cinnamon, nutmeg and star anise in a heavy fruitcake topped with molasses and dates. The palate was equally as sumptuous with oozing dark treacle, Manuka honey and brittle toffee over prunes, raisins and coffee beans in dark navy rum. With water came a wave of bitter orange marmalade, black forest gateau and slightly charred hot cross buns full of sweet spice. The palate continued with burnt orange peel, chocolate malt and cocoa powder but now with coconut flakes, tobacco and liquorice stick. After spending five years in an oloroso butt this was transferred to a second fill toasted oak butt for the remainder of its maturation.

We all agreed in an instant - autumn leaves and bonfire followed by toffee apples and s’mores – such an evocative scent. The palate moved seamlessly on to pumpkin soup with a twist, some chillies to give it a zing as well as spiced rum-soaked grilled pineapple. Water opened another chapter of this wonderfully complex dram(a) - fresh plums, dried cranberries, honey, hessian sacks and to top it all, dragon’s blood fragrance oil. To taste truly scrumptious, a chocolate yule log sprinkled in ‘snowy’ coconut. After five years in an ex-oloroso butt, we transferred this whisky into a second fill PX butt.

Great Southern Dram BY SCOTT MANSFIELD, QLD STATE MANAGER

Guarani lore has it that if a jacaranda flower falls on your head, good fortune will come your way. A point certainly confirmed with the arrival our first Australian cask 147.1 ‘Jacaranda Jam’. Although the good Paraguayan folks would be somewhat surprised that traditions concerning their native tree were being applied to a spirit most commonly associated with far off Scotland. Yet here we are and 147.1 is neither an everyday dram nor Scotch. BELOW: Arthur Streeton's Mt William (Land of the golden fleece) artwork.

ull credit to our local tasting panel. For me, the nose of 147.1 is most evocative of the subtly sweet lilac flowers of the Jacaranda which, incidentally, means fragrant in Guarani. Here in Brisbane, a cityscape polka dotted purple marks the coming swelter of summer. For Don Walker, of Cold Chisel, memories of the Jacarandalined streets of his hometown Grafton inspired the sweet nostalgia for love lost in the classic pub ballad ‘Flame Trees’. For all that, these connections may not resonate for you and that’s perfectly fine. The power of the spirit to take you a different place and time is entirely personal and subjective. For the scientifically inclined, whisky is heady brew thousands of combinations of lactones, phenolic compounds, aldehydes and esters and that’s just the start. To say that the unique marriage of certain sequences of molecules can be definitively characterised by a label, e.g. cake, defies credulity. All the scientific analysis in the world cannot factor in the most important variable: You!

We are all the end result of our own story. Somewhere indexed deep in the recesses of the hippocampus, our limbic system stores millions of our memories. Frequently all it takes is a certain aroma or flavour to unlock a powerful memory. ABOVE: John Glover's Launceston and the River Tamar artwork.

Consider a Society tasting. How often do discussions turn to our different interpretations of the tasting notes. “Wow, there really is a hint of lavender in 3.269 ‘Bouquets and Spades’. “Yup, I get the boozy rum trifle in G7.17 A Grain of Wood. Yet, just as often we can hear musings on different notes discerned. “For me, its more plum than rhubarb in 7.234 Appealing Apricot Jamboree. One person’s jaffa cake is another one’s bergamot. Each of us come to a whisky with our own blend of biology, biography and culture. Our palates are as unique as other aspects of our biology. For example, some of us are biologically conditioned to be more sensitive to fatty foods. It’s no coincidence that some flavours can be quite divisive. Coriander? ‘Yes please’ or ‘Yuck, I’d rather eat soap’. Liquorice jelly beans; love it or loathe it. With over 10,000 tastebuds it’s natural that our tastes differ. This is not to neglect that just like muscles can be trained, our tastes can be conditioned through life experience. We are all the end result of our own story. Somewhere indexed deep in the recesses of the hippocampus, our limbic system stores millions of our memories. Frequently all it takes is a certain aroma or flavour to unlock a powerful memory. The limbic system also regulates

our emotions so it’s no surprise that strong emotions can trigger specific memories. Therefore, we often associate a significant life event with the scent, flavour or sound occurring at the same time. It’s no coincidence that so many of us still love the music we listened to in our teens. Whilst personal tastes reflect our lived experience we should not neglect the power of culture in affecting our points of view. Many of us remember the days when an Australian whisky met with scepticism. “It’s okay but it’s no (insert name of Scottish single malt).” That things have changed reflects not only the development of the Australian whisky industry but also a growing appreciation of the intrinsic merits of our own drams. We’ve travelled the highways and byways in our Australian whisky. No longer a novelty our local drops hold a mirror to this wide brown land. It’s no surprise as this type of metamorphosis has happened so many times before. What once was exotic is now the essence of what is Australian. The Australian art scene is a classic example. Look upon the works of John Glover. In a leap of faith, the 64 year old Englishman migrated to Tasmania. His depictions of the Tasmanian countryside in shape, form and hue suggest a manicured English pastoral. Skip

forward sixty years, the works of Arthur Streeton, Tom Roberts and others of the Heidelberg school celebrate a distinctly Australian landscape, baked under a cruel sun suffuse with grey greens and ochre. It all feels more like home. A world seen through Australian eyes. More than a century on, our whisky - like our Society - is immensely diverse, a kaleidoscope of cultures from here and around the globe have transformed our palat(t)e. The SMWS’s whisky journey continues. As members of our Society we are singularly placed to celebrate the massively varied flavours of each unique single cask of Scotland’s finest whiskies but to also embrace the delights of our own cask strengths whiskies. So, go find a table to sit with old friends, raise a toast. “Australian whisky for everyone” and, “may a Jacaranda flower fall on you.”

Scott Mansfield ~ QLD State Manager, Scotch Malt Whisky Society 49

Distillery 148 is barely two decades old and has already made an indelible mark on the whisky world. Cask 128.13 hails all the way from Wales, where this distillery re-started Welsh whisky distilling in 2000 after a century of silence. Most of their casking is into ex-bourbon barrels, but some of their exotic offerings of exPort, ex-rum, and in this case ex-sherry bring some considerable heft and wild flavours to the glass. Members around the world rightly jump on these syrupy monsters at every opportunity, and you'd be mad not to consider this for your festive lunch this year!

WELSH COBBLER SHERRY COCKTAIL SPICY & SWEET CASK NO. 128.13

$230.00

Limit of one bottle per Member

REGION

Wales

CASK TYPE

2nd fill Oloroso butt

AGE

7 years

DATE DISTILLED

8 June 2013

OUTTURN

637 bottles

ABV

62.2%

AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles Have you ever filled your empty PET plastic bottle with young amontillado sherry at a petrol station? If you haven’t, head to Jerez de la Frontera as soon as you can! The palate neat started off with plenty of heat and a bit of salt but then soon evolved into a strawberry and banana flambé with butterscotch sauce. When we added plenty of water and gave it a little time to rest an almost perfect classic sherry cobbler cocktail emerged – oloroso and PX sherry, ‘blackstrap’ rum, maraschino liqueur, fresh pineapple and lime juice. Refreshing, long and fruity with a hint of that salty-savoury-earthy note typical for that kind of rum.

A DREAMY NIGHTTIME DRINK SPICY & SWEET

THE YELLOW FAIRY SPICY & DRY

CASK NO. 108.34

$185.00

CASK NO. 28.54

$140.00

REGION

Speyside

REGION

Highland

CASK TYPE

1st fill bourbon barrel

CASK TYPE

1st fill bourbon barrel

AGE

14 years

AGE

8 years

DATE DISTILLED

9 May 2006

DATE DISTILLED

21 May 2012

OUTTURN

194 bottles

OUTTURN

209 bottles

ABV

64.4%

ABV

59.7%

AUS ALLOCATION 42 bottles

AUS ALLOCATION 30 bottles

One panellist opened secretly a tin box full of simple butter cookies (Plaetzchen or Gutsle as they are known in his part of Germany), different shapes and sizes all with a glaze and sprinkled with sugar pearls. On the palate, an initial spicy hit of lime chilli coconut chicken and salted spicy popcorn was soon followed by a creamy butternut squash custard. After dilution we enjoyed vanilla custard, blueberry muffins, pear confit in cloves and cocoa syrup on the nose while the taste was warm milk flavoured with honey, vanilla and cinnamon sprinkled on top - a wonderfully dreamy nighttime drink.

We walked through a cliffside lemon grove along the Amalfi coast with the sea breeze carrying aromas of sweet hay, cut green grass and shaved oak. On the palate, not surprisingly, lemon curd to start with followed by green peppercorns, white pepper, sweet ginger and sugared almonds. Diluted we detected herbal green notes of nettles, river reeds, eucalyptus and a distinct rustic scent of tobacco and hay flowers found in that mountain gentian spirit called eau-de-vie de gentiane, also known under the nickname, la fée jaune. To taste a mixture of earthy notes such as hyssop and myrtle with the sweetness of sugar and the sharpness of quinine like in herbal tonic water.

A FAMILY STORY Cask 130.5 Harmonious as a barbershop quartet is an incredibly complex whisky hailing from Japan. Distillery 130 is a story of family lineage. Ichiro Akuto's continuation of a family tradition of brewing and distilling that starts all the way back in 1625 with his ancestor Akuto Shuzo making sake. Some time later the 'golden horse' brand of blended whiskies, and later Hanyu, would continue that tradition. Today, Ichiro continues his family legacy with distillery 130, which we're proud to offer up to members on a ballot for our bumper Outturn. Matured for 9 years, with an extra-maturation in a 1st-fill Imperial stout cask, this is quite possibly one of the most desirable modern Japanese whiskies on offer in the world. Limit 1 per member, ballot only entry. This bottling will be by ballot entry and only available to SMWS members. To enter the ballot go to the bottling on the shop page.

HARMONIOUS AS A BARBERSHOP QUARTET DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS CASK NO. 130.5

$499.00

REGION

Japan

CASK TYPE

1st fill Imperial stout barrel

AGE

9 years

DATE DISTILLED

16 April 2011

OUTTURN

208 bottles

ABV

58.8%

AUS ALLOCATION 12 bottles

M MIU PRE T TLING BO CIAL SPE NISH FI

Harmonious as a barbershop quartet – the nose combined savoury (soy, nori, red bean paste) with sweet (mocha, Demerara, honey) and woody spice (cinnamon, cigar box, polished oak). The palate also held sweet-savoury harmonies – maple pancakes, Christmas pudding and treacle tart; grilled yakitori and octopus okonomiyaki with sweet glaze (but with more spice) mulled wine, ginger, clove, Victory V’s, liquorice. The reduced nose seemed fruitier – tangerine, home-made lemonade and Anton Berg chocolate marzipan with plum. The palate’s complexity sent panellists off in different directions – e.g. American cream soda, brandy snaps and orange blossom. After three years in first-fill bourbon wood this was transferred into an Imperial stout cask.

I’LL BEETROOT TO YOU YOUNG & SPRITELY CASK NO. 112.82

$170.00

MEEMAW’S MOONPIE SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW CASK NO. 73.121

$160.00

REGION

Highland

REGION

Speyside

CASK TYPE

2nd fill Madeira hogshead

CASK TYPE

1st fill bourbon barrel

AGE

13 years

AGE

9 years

DATE DISTILLED

21 May 2007

DATE DISTILLED

17 October 2011

OUTTURN

262 bottles

OUTTURN

251 bottles

ABV

57.6%

ABV

58.1%

AUS ALLOCATION 18 bottles

AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles

The nose arrived with a woody abundance that mixed furniture polish with fresh cut timber and varnish on teak. Brown sugar and burnt caramel then moved though orange skin and onto earthier realms that wrapped us in beetroot and rhubarb. Waves of spice dominated the initial palate but quickly softened to cola, black cherries and dark chocolate covered ginger biscuits. A dash of water brought coconut yoghurt and candied orange segments with key lime pie and fermenting apples and pears. Then deeper notes of cedar wood and linseed oil moved us towards old tea chests, sandalwood and a return of beetroot.

The nose is a breath of fresh air – burgeoning spring foliage, cut meadow grass, flowers and a basketful of tropical fruits (melon, pineapple, kiwi, orange). The fruits, especially citrus, are vibrantly present on the palate, along with coconut cream, Irn Bru milkshake, condensed milk and fudge, Wagon Wheels; the finish picks up Indian spices and coffee. The reduced nose finds a sherbet zing, full of homemade lemonade, kumquat and lychee and a sweet hint of vanilla fudge. The palate now has chalky sweets (like Edinburgh Rock), macarons, petits fours and barbecued pineapples; warm spices, fresh oak and matcha green tea haunt the finish.

MEDITATING MANGOS

NAILED IT! SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW CASK NO. 35.282

$190.00

SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW CASK NO. 9.187

$235.00

REGION

Speyside

REGION

Speyside

CASK TYPE

1st fill bourbon barrel

CASK TYPE

1st fill bourbon barrel

AGE

12 years

AGE

16 years

DATE DISTILLED

2 November 2007

DATE DISTILLED

11 September 2003

OUTTURN

208 bottles

OUTTURN

214 bottles

ABV

57.1%

ABV

53.3%

AUS ALLOCATION 30 bottles

AUS ALLOCATION 42 bottles

A fruity, floral perfumed aroma reminded us of a fruit salad with vanilla ice cream, shisha tobacco flavoured with green apple and pineapple as well as a fresh flower bouquet. On the palate neat -amazingly smooth and sweet with a wonderful texture like Chantilly cream, vanilla custard, banana bread and chocolate praline cupcakes. Water added, on the nose, nougat, fudge and hazelnut crème next to pears poached in white wine and a Manhattan cocktail. Even more balanced now, if that is possible, with flavours of juicy mango, creamy coconut and a custard lemon pie while in the finish -chewy fruit flavoured fresh mint sweets.

Soft fruits swirled around dried banana, mango and dragon fruit as a little limey zing summoned peppermint, cloves and cardamom pods. Flavours transcended the conscious realms as heather blossom and agave syrup joined fragrant Indian spices over charred pineapple and mango coulis. Water brought us to a place of inner content with an abundance of juicy fruit, marshmallows and lemon meringue pie. Vanilla slices joined soft buttery notes and strawberry milkshake as ripe melon brought a sense of mellow around perfumed sandalwood, cinnamon and toffee. Divine flavours of honey and fudge lasted well onto the finish as this gentle nature demanded careful use of water.

LICKING A COAL SCUTTLE PEATED CASK NO. 53.366

$175.00 REGION

Islay

CASK TYPE

2nd fill Oloroso hogshead

AGE

8 years

DATE DISTILLED

16 March 2012

OUTTURN

276 bottles

ABV

55.4%

AUS ALLOCATION

60 bottles

CIALH E P S NIS FI

Shifting this from ex-bourbon wood to an oloroso hogshead after six years has produced an intriguing combination of flavours and aromas. The initial nose had bacon-wrapped dates, brinjal pickle, plum chutney, hoisin sauce, salty peanuts and ‘licking a coal scuttle’. The palate balanced sweetness and smoke with side orders of liquorice, lavender oil, citrus and memories of ‘lighting a fire with newspapers, wearing a wetsuit’. Sherry notes appeared on the reduced nose – along with raisin jam, maple-glazed bacon, pickled walnuts, scorched rosemary, fresh donuts, seaweed and lemon. The palate had salty tang, glazed gammon, marmalade, blackcurrant and a spicy finish (ginger snaps, clove).

9 9 $3

Do you remember getting one of those Christmas Advent calendars as a kid and being more excited than anything to open the door on each new day? Maybe it was a fun message, maybe a piece of chocolate, but it sure was fun either way. Why stop having fun just because you’ve grown up? The most diverse whisky Advent calendar available in Australia (or indeed the world) is available in limited supply for members to enjoy a new single cask every day of December leading up to Christmas Day.

25 X UNIQUE SINGLE CASK SAMPLES WITH A FULL 25ML DRAM OF EACH IN A FUN AND EXCITING BOX OF FLAVOURS FOR YOU TO ENJOY. Jump in, pop a dram each day, and enjoy the world’s most unique Advent calendar. Stocks are limited so don't delay! 56

GIVE THE GIFT OF THE SOCIETY Introduce a friend to the Society and bring them along a journey of the world's most colourful whisky experiences. For this special bumper Outturn offer, we're proud to offer up a full gift membership with over $199 extra value, completely free! From today until 31/12, use the code XMAS21 for $120 off the full package price of gift membership which includes: • • • • • • • •

$349 SAVE

$120 31/12 UNTIL

A full membership to the SMWS valued at $120 Our membership discovery pack valued at $299 A complimentary 3 x dram pack for both the giftee and yourself valued at $79 each A full video tasting of the 3 x dram pack Access to all Society bottlings Access to our Unfiltered Magazine Members rates on all events + all the other benefits of membership included.

Use code XMAS21 on a gift membership this festive season and give the ultimate unique gift this year.

SOCIETY HIPFLASK Shetland Tweed classic multi-check pattern, inspired by our venue hosts’ uniforms: A wee dram (on hand for those purely medicinal purposes) should be carried in something replete with dignity and poise. Designed by Walker Slater. $69 each.

SOCIETY GLASSWARE $2EA0CH $1F0OR06

$6EA9CH

SMWS.COM.AU/SHOP All prices are including GST and excluding shipping

EVENTS PERTH

ADELAIDE

FESTIVE FLAVOUR PARTY

FUN FESTIVE FINALE

Helvetica look out! A proper send off for 2021 for our WA members in the inviting atmosphere of Helvetica Bar welcoming us for our debut appearance!

Dust off your party clobber. It’s time to celebrate some awesome whiskies from the SMWS cellar at our final tasting of the year. Prepare yourself for fun, some frolicking and fabulous food from the Seven Stars kitchen team.

THURSDAY 25 NOVEMBER, 6.30 FOR 7.00PM Helvetica Bar, Howard Lane, Perth Host: Jason Davies, WA Manager

FRIDAY 19 NOVEMBER, 6.00 FOR 6.30PM Seven Stars Hotel, 187 Angas St, Adelaide Host: Jenny Forrest, SA Manager

MELBOURNE STEAM TRAIN TOUR Choo choo! The Society Steam Train takes off on Sat 27 Nov with an entire steam train journey of food, whisky, and regional loop for a twilight experience.

SATURDAY 27 NOVEMBER, 3.30 FOR 4.00PM

Twilight Train, Southern Cross Station, Melbourne Hosts: Matt Bailey, National Ambassador & Alex Moores, VIC Manager

SYDNEY FESTIVE STEPS The steps are back! Taste your way around the flavour wheel and celebrate the end of 2021 with us back at the RAC.

SATURDAY 4 DECEMBER, 2.00 FOR 2.30PM

Royal Automobile Club, 89 Macquarie St, Sydney Hosts: Andrew Derbidge, NSW Manager & your SMWS team!

BRISBANE FESTIVE WHISKY DINNER 4 DEC 2021 A full whisky paired dinner and celebration of seeing the year out back at the Brisbane Club with the Oak Room to ourselves. Join us on a full dinner, drams, and convivial evening.

SATURDAY 4 DECEMBER, 6.30 FOR 7.00PM

The Brisbane Club, 241 Adelaide St, Brisbane Host: Scott Mansfield, QLD Manager

HOBART CHRISTMAS IN THE PARK Come to Parliament House Gardens just next to Salamanca and share drams, food, and the camaraderie of the world’s greatest whisky club! Bring a picnic rug, we’ll look after the rest!

SATURDAY 11 DECEMBER, FROM 2.00PM

Parliament House Gardens, Parliament Dr, Hobart Host: Tom Rofe, TAS Manager

WOLLONGONG THE GONG FESTIVE WHISKY DINNER Let’s end the year with a Gong gathering at the Fraternity Club. Great drams, a delicious dinner and some good old community spirit!

CANBERRA

Keep an eye on our website and socials for further event details as they are confirmed and released.

FRIDAY 19 NOVEMBER, 6.30 FOR 7.00PM

The Fraternity Club, 11 Bourke St, Fairy Meadow Host: Fred Apolloni, Wollongong Manager

TO BOOK To book in for an event, please visit our website at

SMWS.COM.AU/EVENTS 58

E VAULTS COL T A L TIM

THE UL

TION EC

VIR TASTI TUAL NG $299 SET *

VIRTUAL TASTING IS BACK

JOIN US LIVE! FRIDAY 3 DECEMBER

We’ve had an incredibly lucky run of Vaults Collection bottlings in 2021, so to celebrate we want to end the year on a bang with our biggest and rarest tasting yet. 5 x single cask, cask strength, rarities from the deepest archives of the Vaults, tasted, shared, and discovered on one big night to round the year out for our virtual tastings. Casks include:

97.23

38.27

70.40

24.143

53.333

SEDUCTIVE WHISPERS OF OAK

EARL GREY TEA TREE OIL

ELOQUENT SILENCE

SUBSTANCE OVER STYLE

BANDAGES ON A MERMAID’S FLIPPER

(OUTTURN RELEASE)

(FUTURE PREVIEW)

$2,950

$850

$1,399

$749

$995

hosted live on Friday 3 December 2021 on Facebook & YouTube, or you can watch it back later at any date that suits you

GRAB YOUR VIRTUAL TASTING KIT AND JOIN IN THE FUN! SMWS.COM.AU/SHOP *Includes 5 x 30ml drams, two tasting mats and full tasting notes.

SMWS.COM.AU

FESTIVE ORDERING For delivery in time for Christmas, we recommend placing your order by Friday 3rd December. For faster/priority delivery by Australia Post, select Express Post in the online store, or contact our office.

FESTIVE SEASON OPENING HOURS The Society’s office will be closed from Friday 24th December, re-opening on Tuesday 4th January. Orders placed online between Christmas and New Year will be dispatched as usual excluding public holidays.

WE WISH YOU AND YOURS A SAFE AND HAPPY HOLIDAY SEASON! 02 9974 3046 Mon-Fri 9.00am - 5.00pm AEDT

@SMWS_AUSTRALIA

AUSTRALIANSMWS

SMWS_AUS

Society whiskies are offered and sold through The Artisanal Spirits Company Pty Ltd, Liquor Licence LIQP770017428.