Outturn Catch: Friday 2nd August Issue 08, 2019
WHISKY BOILERMAKERS Flavour hunters rejoice, we’re exploring the pleasures of whisky and beer matching. Enjoy fizzy new heights with our new collection of casks and pairing recommendations. FOLLOW US AT SMWS.COM.AU
CONTENTS Glenlossie Distillery
Malt of the Month
Andrew Derbidge.............................. 3
PTD.M02 Peat Faerie.................... 10
Cellarmaster’s Note
Shades of Amber Matt Bailey............................................ 20
Andrew Derbidge.............................. 4 Brilliant Boilermakers Matt Bailey............................................ 6
Events Check out the latest listings........ 22
Special Release 46.79 Chocolate, cream and malted Bali.................................. 8
OUR BOTTLINGS SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW
JUICY, OAK & VANILLA
Cask No. 46.79 Chocolate, cream and malted Bali...................................
8
Cask No. 123.30 A cheeky little number.............................................................
10
12
SPICY & DRY Cask No. 1.209 Waxing a hot woodsman.......................................................
13
DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS Cask No. 73.107 Cherry chocolate and chutney ...........................................
2
16
LIGHTLY PEATED Cask No. PTB.M02 Peat faerie (Malt of the Month)..........................................
13
Cask No. 66.131 Full steam ahead!.......................................................................
16
PEATED
13
OLD & DIGNIFIED Cask No. 50.108 Darkness of the edge of brown...........................................
14
OILY & COASTAL Cask No. 93.99 Drambletown Loch....................................................................
SPICY & SWEET Cask No. 113.19 Thyme for a banana.................................................................
Cask No. 51.14 Alluring fruits and spices.......................................................
14
Cask No. 53.281 A day at the seaside...................................................................
17
Cask No. 66.123 A strong personality.................................................................
17
RUM AND ARMAGNAC Cask No. R12.2 Dreams are made of these.....................................................
18
Cask No. A5.3 Fully loaded sweet trolley......................................................
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GLENLOSSIE DISTILLERY As much as the whisky scene is booming, there are still a number of distilleries that don’t bottle or market their product as a single malt – content to remain anonymous and exist purely to supply the blenders. Glenlossie is one such distillery. Established in 1876 at the top end of Speyside (not far from Elgin) and operating independently for its first few decades, in 1919 it joined the stable that we know today as Diageo. It has thus been part of the Haig and Johnnie Walker portfolios for most of its working life and remains a contributor to those blends. Like many of the Victorian-era distilleries, it was upgraded and expanded in the 1960’s. Today, the original kiln still fronts the site (see photo), although the maltings were decommissioned many years ago and the production areas have been modernised. Glenlossie’s spirit has a fascinating character, being one of several distilleries to employ a purifier on the lyne arm. (Ardbeg is perhaps the most well-known distillery with a purifier in place). Purifiers encourage and capture the heavier alcohols that have made it over the lyne arm to condense and then return these heavier distillates back into the still where they are re-distilled. The result is a lighter spirit that is oily in texture and better allows the floral, grassy character produced during fermentation to shine through. A sister distillery, Mannochmore, was built immediately adjacent to Glenlossie in the 1970’s on the same site (the two buildings are separated by just a few metres), although the two distilleries produce very different spirit.
I toured both distilleries in 2014 by appointment (they are closed to the public and don’t have visitor centres) and it would be fair to describe them both as workhorse plants built for function and not form. They are no-nonsense distilleries on a no-nonsense site that also incorporates a dark grains processing plant which deals with the draff, pot ale and spent lees from Diageo’s other distilleries in the region. (Draff is the husks and barley residue left behind after mashing; pot ale and spent lees are the byproducts of distillation. They are processed to produce both animal feed and a soil nutrient respectively). Despite being very highly regarded by the blenders and known for the quality and appeal of its spirit, Glenlossie is rarely bottled, even by the independents. The Society is perhaps the most regular and frequent advocate for the distillery, bottling more single casks than any other company – 79 now, to date.
46.79 IS BEING OFFERED UP WORLDWIDE THIS MONTH FOR OUR BEER & WHISKY OUTTURN AND YOU CAN FIND OUT A BIT MORE ABOUT IT ON PAGES 8-9. Andrew Derbidge ~ Director, Cellarmaster & NSW Manager
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COMPARE THE PAIR
Dear Members,
Whisky – as I’m sure you’ve discovered by now – is a very versatile drink. It can be enjoyed any number of ways (neat, over ice, with a mixer, etc); it’s a key ingredient in many cocktails; and it can be paired beautifully with a large number of foods and other beverages. Such culinary matchings are now the norm, and whisky dinners are almost passe. But it wasn’t always this way. Attitudes to and experiences with whisky were once fairly narrow in their vision. In fact, it was only as recently as 20 years ago that matching whisky to food became a “thing”. Internationally, it was probably the work by Martine Nouet through Whisky Magazine that brought attention to the craft and skill of matching whisky to food. Indeed, courtesy of our founding Director, John Rourke, some of the earliest Society events in Australia in 2003 and 2004 were whisky dinners that broke new ground, relying on John’s gourmet flair developed from his long association with the Wine and Food Society. The baton would subsequently be carried further by Society member, Franz Scheurer, who organised some of the most game-changing and exceptional whisky dinners for the Society (and plenty of other organisations) across the country. The Society’s whisky dinners with Neil Perry, Darren Robertson, Tetsuya, Federico Zanellato, and others are now in Australia’s whisky folklore. It is no exaggeration or stretch of the truth to assert that the Society forged new ground in Australia with some of the whisky pairing events we subsequently conceived and delivered. ‘Cheese & Whisky’ was virtually an unknown 4
delectation, and it was the SMWS in Australia that executed some fantastic events in the mid-2000’s that proved high-ABV malt could work a treat with cheeses when expertly paired. Similarly, we conceived and delivered Whisky & Chocolate nights (with Australia’s leading and most awarded chocolatier, no less); and Whisky & Coffee nights (with one of Australia’s most respected independent, family coffee roasters); Whisky & Beer nights (with Dr Chuck Hahn and the Malt Shovel Brewery – all long before boilermakers gained popularity). More recently, we’ve explored Whisky & Ice-cream to good effect. About the only pairing I’ve struggled with is the concept of Whisky & Music. It’s admittedly a far less tangible concept than pairing whisky to food and beverages, not to mention a more subjective pursuit. After all, people’s tastes and preferences in music cover a far more diverse (and sensitive) spectrum, and it’s difficult to assign objectivity to the applicability or success of any match. For example, who’s to say a 10 year old Talisker is lifted or enhanced by drinking it to Beethoven’s Third Symphony any better than it would if paired with ‘Uprising’ by Muse? Having said that, I do like the idea of bringing the last of the senses into whisky appreciation. We already exercise sight, smell, taste, and touch. (We admire the whisky’s colour with our eyes; we smell its nose/bouquet; we taste its flavour on our palate; and our tongue, cheeks, and gums feel the whisky’s texture and heat). But pairing whisky and music lacks objectivity – what is the yardstick and how do we account for personal
musical taste? It is thus an individual pursuit. I assume a successful match relies more on mood than it does on, say, rhythm and melody. Whisky certainly has a mood and a character – a malt can be soft or aggressive; it can be bombastic or it can be contemplative. It can be vibrant and awakening or it can be calming/soothing. And, thus, there are musical genres and certainly songs that share those characteristics and an appropriate pairing can yield a result that is better than the sum of the parts. Interestingly, I believe Scotch whisky is more difficult to match to music than other whiskies or spirits. Other drinks seem to have natural musical partners. For example, there’s something intrinsic about, say, bourbon and blues. Chicago blues or the slow drawl of southern roots blues – even gospel – just cry out to be paired with a fat tumbler filled with Wild Turkey or Jack Daniels. Perhaps it’s simply because the bagpipes aren’t the most universally appreciated instrument, but – outside of a Burns Supper – there’s less of a link between Scotland’s national drink and its national music. If pairing whisky and music is something you’ve explored, we’d love to hear what you’ve tried and what you reckon works. Share your experiences with others – why not post your thoughts on our members’ Facebook Group and we can all learn and try it out. I’ll start the ball rolling – I reckon any Society bottling of Caol Ila goes well with Steel Panther’s first album… ;-) Cheers, Andrew
Andrew Derbidge ~ Director, Cellarmaster & NSW Manager
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BRILLIANT BOILERMAKERS It’s the month of celebrating boilermakers! Let’s talk a bit about what they are, where they come from, and how much fun can be had in finding ‘perfect pairings’ between beer and whisky. BY MATT BAILEY
T
he history of the boilermaker dates back to 1890 in Montana USA, where coal miners would finish their shifts in the mines and be served a knock-off called a “Sean O’Farrell” with a cheap whisky washed back with a local ale. If you were from Pittsburgh, however, you were more likely to enjoy a boilermaker by cracking a raw egg into your beer, then dropping the shot of whisky into the pint glass, creating a big foamy mess. It’s not a story with a lot of romance, it’s one of requirement for steel workers and miners to wash the taste of the factory or mine out of their mind after work, and it was almost certainly cheap whisky and even cheaper beer. So what’s the relationship between beer and whisky that makes a nicely paired boilermaker so appealing? To make a great single malt, you have to start with essentially a beer. Single malt whisky is, in essence, a distilled beer that’s then matured in oak casks. Let’s talk beer for a moment then, to make those comparisons: malted barley (or rye, wheat, etc.) is milled and crushed up to create a grist. That grist is then moved to a mash tun and mixed with heated water to create a mash. That mash is then pumped into a lauter tun where a sweet liquid (wort) is separated 6
from the grain husks. All sound familiar so far? At this point, a steel kettle is used to bring the wort to a controlled heat at which point hops will be added. Following this is fermentation, maturation, filtration, carbonation, bottling (or canning) and enjoyment. The enjoyment part is where I want to go next: how would you enjoy your boilermaker? You can enjoy the beer first, or the dram first, and find your flavour pairings. Sometimes they might complement each other perfectly, other times they might nicely contrast. So with a shared production in grain and history, we now look to how the Society can completely reinvigorate what we think a boilermaker can be, and bring it from the realm of cheap knock-offs, to truly mind-blowing flavour combinations. Some suggestions I’ve personally put together you might like to try yourself:
91.21 SWEET SIMPLICITY + PHILTER XPA 76.139 SPEYGERMEISTER + RIVERSIDE 44 93.99 DRAMBLETOWN LOCH + LORD NELSON BREWING DARK ALE 53.284 SMOKY, MALTY MINERALITY + COLONIAL INQUEST
FIND YOUR BOILERMAKER PAIRING WITH SUGGESTIONS LIKE THIS, OR TRY YOUR OWN!
YOUNG & SPRITELY + PHILTER XPA The often overlooked Young & Spritely category can make for a brilliant pairing with an equally bright and refreshing XPA. A few combinations later, the 91.21 Sweet simplicity and Philter’s XPA, an award-winning Sydney extra pale ale make for some sweet and bright boilermaking!
DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS + RIVERSIDE 44 A rich and complex sherried whisky deserves an equally complex and spicy beer to find its match. The 76.139 in the Deep, rich & dried fruits category seemed to bounce together nicely with this American amber ale from Parramatta-based brewery Riverside. Their 44 has that lovely balance of malt against our 76. Looks like 44 can go into 76!
OILY & COASTAL + LORD NELSON BREWING DARK ALE When you want that delicate farmyard palate of a great Campbeltown single cask to be accompanied by a dark ale that isn’t going to bite your tongue, the Lord Nelson is a cold night ace up the sleeve to pair with that 93.99 Drambletown Loch in this month’s Outturn. Warming and syrupy, complex and dark.
PEATED + COLONIAL INQUEST Boom! When you have a massive festival cask and an equally massive beer from the team over at Colonial Brewing in Port Melbourne for some delicious slow dramming of high proof meets high proof. The minerality of the 53 from Islay against the demonic darkness of the Inquest’s flinty and chocolate notes makes for some dangerously good pairing. 7
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SPECIAL RELEASE
It’s boilermaker month, and we’re bringing a whole new standard to pairing incredible single casks to tasty beers. For a special release this month, we’re proud to be able to offer this 21 year old from distillery 46 for your consideration in pairings. Distillery 46 sits upon the same site as distillery 64 and produces an elegant single malt that is obscure, yet excels at older ages like this cask did. Expertly finished in a toasted oak hogshead for over three years, expect notes of brazil nuts, cocoa powder, old refined tobacco, banana, guava, and banoffee pie! Something well worth savouring and sharing with good friends.
CHOCOLATE, CREAM AND MALTED BALI
REGION
Speyside
CASK TYPE
2nd fill toasted hogshead
AGE
21 years
DATE
18 September 1997
SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW
OUTTURN
231 bottles
CASK NO. 46.79
ABV
55.6%
AUS ALLOCATION
30 bottles
$330.00
L SPECIAH S FINI
A hedonistic profusion of dried tropical fruit crashed onto the beach amidst coconuts, brazil nuts and dark chocolate that had melted onto the golden sand. Bobbing in the tide we spied an old tea chest packed with jars of golden syrup and tobacco whilst on the warm breeze came the evocative aromas of ground coffee beans and vanilla pods. We were sipping mugs of hot chocolate, lavishly adorned with cream and a dusting of cocoa powder that paired very nicely with the ginger and rhubarb crumble that was drizzled with custard. Through the creamy and velvety textures more tropical fruit appeared as banana, guava and ripe melon combined on layers of banoffee pie and toasted pine nuts. Finally a sprig of mint brought a fresh sensation that merged with apricot yoghurt and pineapple dipped in dark chocolate on the lasting finish. After spending 18 years in an ex-bourbon hogshead this was transferred to a toasted 2nd fill hogshead for the remainder of its maturation.
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MALT OF THE MONTH THE FAERIE IS BACK! After the success of our award-winning bottling of Peat Faerie, there’s a sequel! Introducing our latest ‘heresy’ bottling, Peat Faerie batch 2. A blended malt from hand-picked Islay casks that is rich, approachable, and ultimately a fun sharable peated malt. A positively smoky bottle of fun will keep you warm this winter and who knows, you might even find that ideal beer to pair it with this month!
PEAT FAERIE
REGION
Blended Malt
LIGHTLY PEATED
CASK TYPE
1st fill ex-bourbon barrels & refill hogsheads
CASK NO.
AGE
7 years
DATE DISTILLED
12 October 2010
$149.00
OUTTURN
2172 bottles
REDUCED FROM $165
ABV
50.0%
AUS ALLOCATION
42 bottles
PTB.M02
10
The nose enticed with vanilla, pineapple and white chocolate, while a sweet dustiness reminded one panellist of chalk board dusters. We found a distinct maritime edge, smoked salted butter and old fashioned straw pressed cider. The peat smoke lead on the palate accompanied by salty peanut brittle, caramelised red apples and watermelon jelly. A splash of water brought toasted (borderline smoky) coconut, while soft minty notes gave way to lightly smoked white fish. The palate was slightly drying at first with a building sweet intensity. Flakes of sea salt were lightly sprinkled onto tropical fruit making for a sweet and savoury crescendo fitting of this regional marriage.
11
REGION
Highland
A CHEEKY LITTLE NUMBER
CASK TYPE
1st ex-bourbon fill barrel
AGE
9 years
DATE DISTILLED
29 August 2008
SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW
OUTTURN
194 bottles
CASK NO. 123.30
ABV
61.7%
AUS ALLOCATION
24 bottles
$175.00
An exuberant nose of juicy fruits provoked a sense of excitement as ripe pineapple and gooseberries flirted with pomegranates in a flower garden. Papaya arrived with a squeeze of lime juice whilst poached pears offered a softness that crumbled into chalky sweets. A sprinkling of ground cinnamon delivered a pleasing spice on top of glazed apple tart with sticky fudge and walnuts that blended into soft new leather. The palate tantalised the tongue with chilli and ginger before a hefty deliverance of butter pastry indulged us with Danish pastries laden with raspberries, blackcurrants, maple syrup and pecans. Strawberry tarts and lemon sponge cake directed us further towards fruity delights before the finish arrived bound in orange skin, spice and dry wood.
THYME FOR A BANANA SPICY & SWEET CASK NO. 113.19
$150.00
12
REGION
Speyside
CASK TYPE
Refill ex-bourbon barrel
AGE
7 years
DATE DISTILLED
01 November 2010
OUTTURN
254 bottles
ABV
62.2%
AUS ALLOCATION
30 bottles
Attractive aromas of dried flowers and lavender joined the delicate yet woody spice of sandalwood that had been polished with linseed oil. Complex notes of mixed herbs initially suggested herbs d’Provence but later condensed into rosemary and thyme on roasted parsnips. Soft fruit jelly sweets mixed with apple and pear tarts on a palate that embraced the sweet spice of chilli jam and camphor. Then came the distinctive character of ripe bananas baked with milk chocolate and a sprinkling of cocoa powder. The finish returned to herbal domains, embracing fennel seeds before cooling tones delivered a pinch of peppermint.
REGION
Speyside
WAXING A HOT WOODSMAN
CASK TYPE
Refill ex-bourbon hogshead
AGE
7 years
DATE DISTILLED
08 June 2011
SPICY & DRY
OUTTURN
242 bottles
CASK NO. 1.209
ABV
64.9%
AUS ALLOCATION
36 bottles
$180.00
Herbal toothpaste and cough medicine strike first. A great big battering ram of aroma right up the schnozz. Then it’s coconut, lime oils, lemon bonbons, camphor, English mustard powder, dry earth, aged pinot noir, liquorice and fennel seeds. A good slug of water brings out smoked paprika, strawberry jelly, pine extract, hardwood resins, hot workshop wood shavings, graphite oil, spicy bourbon cocktails, charred wood and butterscotch drizzled red liquorice. The palate is hugely spicy, full of fruity chilli heat, black coffee, old rum, strong mojitos, new leather, crushed mint, tiger balm, chamomile, black tea, cherry throat sweeties and mulling spices. H2O reveals cherryade, toasted pink marshmallows, cola cubes, a strong dark ‘n’ stormy and buttermints. Mental!
REGION
Speyside
CHERRY CHOCOLATE AND CHUTNEY
CASK TYPE
1st fill Oloroso hogshead
AGE
20 years
DATE DISTILLED
29 May 1998
DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS
OUTTURN
256 bottles
CASK NO. 73.107
ABV
55.3%
AUS ALLOCATION
24 bottles
$319.00
CIAL SPE NISH FI
Aromas opened with the juicy combination of pear chutney and plum tarts. The spice of cloves merged with oranges whilst oily notes coupled walnuts and fresh doughnuts with extra virgin olive oil. Suggestions of cocoa delivered praline and cherries in chocolate with a square of chewy fudge. The fragrance of Turkish delight danced with mandarin skin on a desk of antique oak whilst the palate took to tangy territory as ginger marmalade arrived with slices of madeira cake. Boundless sweetness unified brandy snaps and black cherries before pancakes came served with maple syrup and cinnamon. After spending 18 years in an ex-bourbon hogshead this was transferred to a 1st fill ex-oloroso hogshead for the remainder of its maturation. 13
DARKNESS OF THE EDGE OF BROWN
REGION
Lowland
CASK TYPE
2nd fill ex-bourbon barrel
AGE
28 years
OLD & DIGNIFIED
DATE DISTILLED
26 January 1990
CASK NO. 50.108
OUTTURN
95 bottles
ABV
56.6%
AUS ALLOCATION
18 bottles
$499.00
A wonderful aroma, redolent with spiced honey, fruit chutneys, animal hide, apricot jam, golden syrup, green pepper, soft waxes, foie gras on toast, shortbread, jasmine tea and orchard blossom. With water it continues on old medicines, rosewater, Turkish Delight, ancient dessert wines, mineral oils, aged Loire Chenin Blanc, white truffle, earl grey tea, strawberry wine and glazed fruits. The mouth is rich and syrupy as expected. Pear liqueur, tart tatin, apple compote, fruit oils, kiwi, guava, melon and star fruit. Hints of rancio with lemon oils, tiger balm and herbal resins. A little water and we get more old sweet wine qualities like vintage sauternes and plum wine. Then dried mango, pineapple syrups, cloves, orange oils, tarragon, cocktail bitters and camphor. The finish is full of polished oak, amaretti biscuit and fragrant waxes.
REGION
N.Ireland
ALLURING FRUITS AND SPICES
CASK TYPE
1st fill ex-bourbon barrel
AGE
16 years
DATE DISTILLED
16 October 2001
JUICY, OAK & VANILLA
OUTTURN
215 bottles
CASK NO. 51.14
ABV
56.2%
AUS ALLOCATION
42 bottles
$299.00
14
The alluring nose starts with honey and cereals, pain au raisin and a fruity onslaught of banana, mango and peach with vanilla. Hints of herby savouriness (bay leaf) develop as well. The taste is very sweet. Intense fruits, plum jam, mango and vanilla are joined by subtle new wood and sap notes. To finish it becomes herbal and slightly minty. Add water and the fruitiness (and intense sweetness) suggests sherbet lemons and boiled sweets with fruit salad and vanilla. Dried ginger and white pepper spice round it off. It’s still sweet and spicy with big flavours to taste – fruit salad, vanilla, rhubarb, tobacco and ginger heat with a little pleasant butteriness.
15
REGION
Campbeltown
DRAMBLETOWN LOCH
CASK TYPE
Refill ex-bourbon hogshead
AGE
15 years
DATE DISTILLED
07 February 2003
OILY & COASTAL
OUTTURN
274 bottles
CASK NO. 93.99
ABV
55.3%
AUS ALLOCATION
36 bottles
$249.00
The panel felt as though we were tucking into a bacon wrapped venison haunch on a pier at first with these combinations of medical, meaty and farmyard qualities. Notes of black olives in brine, cider washed cheese wheel, quince chutney and syrupy peat oils. With water we found grilled tuna, snuff, tobacco, fresh leather shoes, smoked mussels, bonfire smoke, an antique writing dresser and a hearty dose of sea air. Pure Campbeltown! In the mouth we found salt water, old medicine, aged muscat wine, fruit pastilles, vapour rub, shellfish and lemon balm. With reduction we found lemon cocktail bitters, cherry bakewell, ash-rolled goat’s cheese, pineapple juice, peat embers, sea salt, barley smoking in an active kiln and mouthwash.
REGION
Highland
FULL STEAM AHEAD!
CASK TYPE
Refill ex-bourbon hogshead
AGE
12 years
DATE DISTILLED
06 March 2006
LIGHTLY PEATED
OUTTURN
247 bottles
CASK NO. 66.131
ABV
57.5%
AUS ALLOCATION
18 bottles
$199.00
We were inside a classic steam locomotive cab with the train driver and the fireman crossing the Glenfinnan viaduct on our way to Hogwarts, no, in fact Mallaig. Cold, coal dust and ash was all around us but we were snug in a soft cashmere blanket. When taking a sip neat it felt like the stoker feeding coal into the firebox of the boiler. After we replenished water, we passed ‘the silver sands of Morar’ at full steam and arriving at Mallaig where we had smoked mussels as well as ‘burnt’ carrots and parsnips enjoying the view to Eigg, Rum and Skye. 16
REGION
Islay
A DAY AT THE SEASIDE
CASK TYPE
Refill ex-bourbon hogshead
AGE
11 years
DATE DISTILLED
24 September 2007
PEATED
OUTTURN
269 bottles
CASK NO. 53.281
ABV
60.1%
AUS ALLOCATION
30 bottles
$199.00
You are at the seaside – by the pier, lobster pots, tarry ropes, scallop boats – the tide is out, exposing seaweed – there is an ice-cream van, vanilla and wafers – a café nearby, serving seafood and walnut cake – someone is smoking a cigar and a child has hurt her knee – antiseptic cream and bandages. The palate combines chalky sweets and ginger snaps with savoury notes (salt and pepper squid, prawn cocktail) and smoke and ash; there is also the medicinal stimulation of liquorice lozenges, smokers’ tooth powder, Buckley’s cough syrup and Fernet Branca. Its cocky youthfulness leaves lip-smacking satisfaction and fire in the belly.
A STRONG PERSONALITY
REGION
Highland
CASK TYPE
Refill ex-bourbon hogshead
AGE
12 years
PEATED
DATE DISTILLED
06 March 2006
CASK NO. 66.123
OUTTURN
259 bottles
ABV
57.3%
AUS ALLOCATION
48 bottles
$185.00
We imagined sitting on a shingle beach. Nearby, heather burns over moorland and we opened a leather satchel to get out a few bags of pork scratchings and Thai sweet chilli crisps. Intense sweet peat smoke on the palate neat at first was soon followed by salty liquorice as well as medicinal flavours of iodine and gauze. Careful when adding water! Fresher aromas now appeared, violet leaves and citrus combined with Fisherman’s Friend lozenges and Vichy pastilles, made from the mineral water of the spa town Vichy in Auvergne, whilst to taste, smoked haddock and sweet potato fishcakes. 17
REGION
Refill ex-bourbon barrel
DREAMS ARE MADE OF THESE
CASK TYPE
Refill ex-bourbon barrel
AGE
11 years
DATE DISTILLED
17 October 2007
RUM
OUTTURN
249 bottles
CASK NO. R12.2
ABV
65.7%
AUS ALLOCATION
12 bottles
$210.00
We first noticed the deep red mahogany colour and then we sniffed wood glue followed by an abundance of further ester aromas like peaches, apples, pineapples, pear drops and desiccated coconut – smiling faces all round. Smouldering heat on the palate combined with strawberry jam and whipped cinnamon cream and a mouth-drying finish made this an experience to be savoured. With water, saffron crème brûlée with poached pears in spiced brown sugar and plenty of polished oak on the nose, whilst to taste - charred pineapple margarita with sage and a ‘blooming’ hibiscus flower in syrup at the bottom of a flute filled with Champagne – the stuff that dreams are made of!
REGION
Bas Armagnac
FULLY LOADED SWEET TROLLEY
CASK TYPE
Armagnac barrel - Gascon black oak
GRAPE VARIETY
Baco
AGE
11 years
ARMAGNAC
OUTTURN
562 bottles
CASK NO. A5.3
ABV
65.0%
AUS ALLOCATION
24 bottles
$225.00
Deep rich and opulent, the very quintessence of a Gentleman’s club. You settle comfortably into folds of warm leather armchairs, which mingle with wafts of cedar wood and tobacco, with crème brûlée being served. The palate has subdued, quiet low tones where barley sugar discusses the baked custard with orange citrus fruit and toasty spice. The conversation fades very slowly as it resonates at length along polished oak corridors of flavour. From the Baco grape.
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19
SHADES OF AMBER
Last month’s article from Andrew ‘For what its worth’ really struck a chord with members, online and offline, and it gave me pause to think about a topic that I’ve seen in probably equal measure when it comes to discussion online and at events. That topic is colour, or the shades of amber. It was Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw who once said “whisky is liquid sunshine”. I tend to agree! But a fundamental error I see even some of the most seasoned whisky drinkers still make and perpetuate is a strange obsession with colour. That misconception that ‘darker is better’, or even that pitch-black casks are somehow ‘better’ than others. Let me debunk a few things here. All the colour in a whisky you could ever need is imparted to the spirit during maturation via the cask. The wood leeches flavour, character, and colour to the spirit. However, after a Scotch whisky has finished maturing in an oak cask, the only thing that can be added post-maturation is colouring. It’s often referred to as either ‘distillers caramel’ or e150a colouring. It’s a caramel colourant that changes the colour of a finished whisky. Why would distilleries and blenders use this? The answer can be distilled into one word: consistency. Colour plays a huge part of our buying decisions, even if we like to think it doesn’t. If a whisky looks lighter, or brighter, or not the same as others on a shelf, it risks being considered “inferior” or doesn’t fit our 20
expectations. I still believe colour and perception of such is one of the strongest determiners in whisky. Many, if not most of the commercially available whiskies you know and love today have that caramel added. That consistency is key to the brand, to the output, to the image of what they are bottling. I don’t begrudge them for doing so, but I still like to again state that this isn’t something the Society has ever done, nor would ever do. This might seem like such a small part of what we’re about as a club, but it’s something I should mention as it’s something that always makes way for some interesting discussion. What do we do instead? While we don’t care for consistency of colour, we deeply care about consistency of quality. The quality from the panel, from our warehouses, and from the widest breadth of distilleries on earth. What’s more important in the end: the quality of the spirit in your glass, or how it looks? Take a moment this month to ignore colour, focus on spirit, and discover flavour like no other on earth. That’s the SMWS. Cheers, Matt
CO WITHNNECT MATT bail ey@ sm
@sm ws.com ws_ . mat au t
Matt Bailey ~ SMWS National Ambassador
THE SOCIETY SPIRIT GLASS We are excited to bring you the new Scotch Malt Whisky Society Spirit Glass. This is the ultimate companion in your Spirit discovery adventure.
$30. Inspired by the original 00 sherry copita used by professional sherry blenders, our hand-blown tasting glasses have been specifically designed to maximise your nosing and tasting experience. This elegant tasting glass with Society monogram comes with a luxurious presentation box. $30 per glass inclusive of a beautiful presentation box.
HAVE YOU SEEN OUR NEW T-SHIRTS? The official member T-shirt, with logo on front and ‘A whisky club like no other’ on the back. Presented in black on high-quality AS colour cotton stock and a nice contoured fit.
AVAILABLE IN SIZES S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL. $35.00 EACH
ALL MERCHANDISE IS AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE ON OUR WEBSITE: SMWS.COM.AU/SHOP
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M. S.CO TS W M S /EVEN AU
EVENTS WINTER FESTIVAL FEASTS: SYDNEY & MELBOURNE
It’s summer in Scotland, which means it’s festival time where all the limited festival bottlings get released and shared around with members. Speyside Festival, Campbeltown Malts Festival, and of course Feis Ile, the festival of malts and music in Islay. Your ambassador Matt Bailey has arrived back from Scotland with a bag full of goodies and festival bottlings to share around. Come join us in Sydney or Melbourne, to celebrate festival fever by tasting through a broad selection of festival bottlings as hosted by your national ambassador with some supper, and winter warming drams you’ve not seen or tasted yet. Included in the ticket: 6 x Society pours including some proper rarities and tasty new casks, supper, and an entertaining time for all. A cash bar for beers / extra serves will be available on the night.
SYDNEY
MELBOURNE
Steps-style social evening of festival casks and more.
Festival casks masterclass plus other new casks.
THURSDAY 1 AUGUST 6.30PM START SHIRT BAR SCOTCH ROW, BARANGAROO
SATURDAY 17 AUGUST, 4:00PM STARWARD DISTILLERY 50 BERTIE STREET, PORT MELBOURNE
Tickets: $99 (inc GST) for Members, guests and non-members. All welcome.
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Tickets: $79 for Members & guests, $99 for non-members (inc GST). All welcome.
COMING TO AUSTRALIA
SEPTEMBER 2019
PERTH
SMWS x BLASTA BREWING BOILERMAKERS
Our August Outturn is all about boilermakers, so let’s get together in Perth for some perfect pairings between craft beer and single cask whisky. Those magical moments where two or more flavours come together and either compliment or contrast while enjoying the company of both our illustrious State Manager Jason Davies and other members and guests. Come down to Blasta on the 30th of August for an evening of new single cask whiskies, tasty craft beer, and a light supper. Whisky boilermakers like no other on earth.
ADELAIDE
WATER, COLOUR, MAGIC: THE OTHER ELEMENTS OF WHISKY. We’ve had some fun in recent times looking at the myth and magic surrounding whisky production. So why not continue to explore some of the entertaining elements of the world of whisky by coming to our next Adelaide tasting? Water and the implications of its use have fuelled debate in our community, but as a whisky drinker, have you ever wondered about water and your favourite tipple? Join us for a fun and entertaining tasting where you’ll get to share other elements of whisky: water, colour and magic.
FRIDAY 27 SEPTEMBER, 6.00 FOR 6.30PM THE ROB ROY HOTEL 106 HALIFAX STREET, ADELAIDE Host: Jenny Forrest, SA Manager Tickets: $85 for Members, Guests & Partners. $115 for non-members. Pricing inc GST. Tickets inclusive of whisky & food. All welcome.
FRIDAY 30 AUGUST, 6.00 FOR 6.30PM BLASTA BREWING COMPANY 84/88 GOODWOOD PARADE, BURSWOOD Host: Jason Davies, WA Manager Tickets: $79 for Members, Guests & Partners. $99 for non-members. Pricing inc GST. Tickets inclusive of whisky & food. All welcome.
NEW EVENT LISTINGS FOR CANBERRA, BRISBANE & WOLLONGONG WILL BE ONLINE SOON. TO BOOK IN FOR AN EVENT, PLEASE VISIT OUR WEBSITE OR CONTACT OUR OFFICE.
SMWS.COM.AU/EVENTS
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GO TO FIZZY NEW HEIGHTS SMWS.COM.AU
02 9974 3046 Mon-Fri 9.00am - 5.00pm AEST
@SMWS_AUSTRALIA
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Society whiskies are offered and sold through The Wine Empire Pty Ltd, Liquor Licence LIQP770010175.