Best New England Coastal Destinations

The Salem Witch Museum, in Salem, Massachusetts, especially packed during October each year.

Photo: Andrew Collins

Maine's Mid-Coast region, Salem & Cape Ann

By: Andrew Collins* TRT Travel Writer

With foliage in full splendor, crowds more manageable than in summer, and the air generally crisp but not frigid, autumn— and particularly October—might just be the most enchanting time to travel through coastal New England. Here's a look at two of the region's most alluring and LGBTQ-welcoming ocean getaways: Maine's Mid-Coast region, which is perfect if you love tranquil small towns and gorgeous natural scenery, and Massachusetts' North Shore, a spirited October getaway in part because of Salem's fervent embrace of Halloween camp and spookiness, and because the bustling coastal towns of Cape Ann offer colonial charm and spectacular maritime scenery within an easy drive of Boston.

North Shore Massachusetts Settled in the early 1620s, Cape Ann and the small city of Salem contain a trove of fascinating historical sites, but this scenic stretch of coastline that extends north from Boston to the New Hampshire border also abounds with stunning beaches and verdant woodlands, and a string of charming towns in which old-time storefronts have been converted into lively restaurants, indie boutiques, and bric-a-brac-filled antiques shops, and where imposing sea captain's houses now offer overnight bed-and-breakfast accommodations. As you venture around Cape Ann (capeannvacations.com), you'll find a pleasing mix of historic sites and wildliferich nature preserves—must-sees include the Essex Shipbuilding Museum, Rocky Neck Art Colony, and Halibut Point State Park. In Essex, which is famous as the home of the fried clam, tucking into a plate of fresh seafood is de rigueur—good bets include the handsome Boat House Grille and casual

Essex Seafood, which is also a market. Favorite picks for tasty breakfasts include the cozy Red Skiff in Rockport and Sugar Magnolia's, which is set along downtown Gloucester's lively Main Street. Later in the day, relax with a glass of wine and a romantic dinner at the Market Restaurant in Ipswich, with its sweet water views, or dapper Duckworth's Bistrot in Gloucester. Or—just steps from Front Beach in Rockport, consider Feather & Wedge—which turns out well-crafted, globally inspired contemporary fare, both for dinner and Sunday jazz brunch. There are enough compelling diversions in Salem (salem.org) to keep you busy for days, from campy oddities—the Bewitched statue of Elizabeth Montgomery as Samantha Stevens, Count Orlok's Nightmare Gallery of cinematic monster memorabilia, the Omen: Psychic Parlor & Witchcraft Emporium—to fascinating historic attractions, including the Salem Maritime National Historic Site, the House of the Seven Gables, and the world-renowned Salem Witch Museum. Downtown Salem has dozens of inviting restaurants, including sophisticated Stella's Restaurant and Wine Bar and healthful Organic Garden Vegetarian. Artsy Front Street Coffeehouse is a cheerful stop for a latte, while Little Depot Diner—set in a 1920s rail car in nearby Peabody—is a favorite for filling breakfast fare. For socializing and decent pub fare, both Brodie's Seaport and the Derby are convivial spots, and both have been event venues during the area's North Shore Gay Pride celebration each June. For stellar craft beer, head to Notch Brewery.