NEW YORK Benno’s olive oilpoached sea trout
RELAX AND REVIVE Even the most committed keto connoisseur has a hard time resisting carbs during a long, cold, East Coast winter. To the rescue come New York’s buzziest eateries, offering carb-loading options that actually deliver wellness benefits. BY JULIA SZABO
An American steak house with a raw bar doesn’t sound like a welcoming place for a wellness warrior, but chef Efrén Hernández (formerly of Brooklyn’s Faro and current chef at Mimi) extends the warm hand of hospitality to vegetarians. “When it’s colder out, that comforting feeling you get from carbs is nice to have,” says Hernández, who promises meat-free pasta options, making brilliant use of fresh, seasonal produce sourced from Oyster Bay’s Valentine’s Farm. Handmade tagliatelle with mushrooms and Swiss chard gets a gentle kick from sweet, salty, antioxidant-rich, immune-boosting fermented Calabrian chilis. 72 MacDougal St. (opens late January)
BENNO AND LEONELLI TABERNA Fans of authentic Italian cuisine need not book a trip to Italia; simply visit Man-
ash folded into the dough to create a very unique flavor and color,” the chef adds. Meanwhile, over at the Taberna, “Spaghetti” is simple perfection, with shrimp—“Florida shrimp that are naturally chemical-free, harvested in pristine waters in the South Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico”—and Sicilian oregano (which is anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antifungal, in addition to delivering vitamins A, C, E and K) plus lemon, fennel pollen and scallion. 7 E. 27th St., bennorestaurant.com, leonellirestaurants.com
hattan’s Evelyn Hotel, home to chef Jonathan Benno’s magnificent Mediterranean eatery, Benno, as well as his Roman-style Leonelli Taberna and bakery, Leonelli Focacceria e Pasticceria. At both destinations, pasta is packed with equal parts nutrition and flavor—certainly not your grandmother’s spaghetti. “Pasta should not be assumed to be unhealthy—it’s all about the quality of the ingredients you use,” says Benno. “Our spaghetti is made in-house, with high-quality semolina flour. I do not like to over-butter my pastas, because that will take away all of the flavor we’re trying to achieve.” Inspired by the area where Italy and France meet (Liguria and Provence), the Benno menu presents a concert of coastal flavors perfected in the Spaghetti di Grano Arso, with steamed clams, raw razor clams, uni and scallion. “The spaghetti that we do at Benno has a leek
HILL COUNTRY FOOD PARK Renowned for its decadent barbecued brisket and fried chicken, Hill Country Hospitality expands its repertoire, tempting vegans and vegetarians with memorable meat-free options at its just-opened, 10,000-squarefoot court of six food stalls in downtown Brooklyn, all 158
tastefully tipping a Stetson to the fine food trucks of Austin, Texas. The Bluebonnets stall commemorates music icons: a ciabatta sandwich named Bonnie (as in Raitt) hot-presses a medley of spiced eggplant, arugula, red pepper spread and hummus. 345 Adams St., Brooklyn, hcfoodpark.com
IL PICCOLO RISTORO The art world is abuzz with the galleries of High Line Nine. After taking in the visual art, don’t depart without indulging in an edible artwork at the just-opened Il Piccolo Ristoro; it’s the newest venture from Via Quadronno’s Paolo Della Puppa, panini pioneer of the Upper East Side. Here, the masterpiece is the Piadina: thin, soft, unleavened flatbread that originates from the Emilia-Romagna region of northern Italy, near Bologna, for centuries one of the world’s great gastronomic destinations. Il Piccolo Ristoro is one of the
Evan Sung
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