The Improper Vinophile
The Spirit World
Adventures in Wine
Commentary on the Potent Potables
Anthony Frasca
Jim Bliss
In Memoriam: Palmer and Wölffer
The Long Island wine industry lost two icons recently. 70 year-old Christian Wölffer died on New Year’s Eve in a tragic boating accident while vacationing in Brazil. Robert Palmer died of septicemia in Huntington, N.Y. on January 16th. Palmer was 74 Both Palmer and Wölffer had established thriving wineries on the North and South forks of Long Island. Palmer Vineyards in Aquebogue on the North Fork paved the way for North Fork wineries as a tourist and day-tripper destination. The establishment of Wölffer Estate Vineyards in Sagaponack on the South Fork was the culmination of a life-long dream for Christian Wölffer, a banker and venture capitalist. Wölffer enjoyed swimming in the waters of the ocean near his vineyard and The Long Island wine inwas swimming at the time of his death. dustry will certainly miss Robert Palmer forged a career in advertising without the benefit of a college these two visionaries. education and went on to become the chief executive of the Manhattan based advertising firm Kelly Nason in 1970. After selling his interest in that company, Palmer’s entrepreneurial nature led him to purchase an Aquebogue farm on which he established the Palmer Vineyards in 1983. The Long Island wine industry was in its infancy at the time but Palmer was undeterred and opened the winery and tasting house three years later. The patron-friendly establishment paved the way for other wineries and laid the groundwork for other investors and oenophiles. The tasting room at Palmer was designed after an authentic English pub. The winery’s 90 acres produce14,000 cases of wine annually with varietals that include: Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Although Palmer was not much of a wine enthusiast he did say in a past interview that he strived to produce quality wines because his name was on every bottle. Palmer’s 2004 Cabernet Franc Proprietor’s Reserve won a gold medal at the New York Wine and Food Classic. In addition, the 2004 Merlot won a silver medal and the 2007 Sauvignon Blanc and 2006 Pinot Blanc both won bronze medals. Robert Palmer also served as President of the Long Island Wine Council, an organization dedicated to promoting Long Island wines. Palmer’s enthusiasm for Long Island wines was exemplified by his message in the Long Island Wine Press. He wrote, “For the past three decades, we’ve had to learn what varieties will grow in our cool climate, how to train our vines and the best way to protect them from birds, deer and disease. It was certainly worth the effort, because our vineyards are now considered world-class, and their product – our grapes – is at the top of its form. The result of all the care and attention that have gone into the growing process is a collection of excellent wines.” In contrast to the English pub-like atmosphere at Palmer, the Wölffer Estate Vineyard in Sagaponack is nearly monastic and decorated with a Tuscan motif. The fiftyfive acre farm includes a vineyard and an equestrian facility. Wölffer was established in 1988 and winemaker Roman Roth makes 16,000 cases of wine annually. Christian Wölffer enticed Roman Roth to come to Long Island from his native Germany in 1992 and they forged a relationship dedicated to producing the finest wines Long Island soil could muster. The Wölffer estate boasts the first Long Island wine to sell for $100, the 2002 Premier Cru Merlot, sold individually in an elegant wooden box. The winery also houses a wine cellar where a number of Wölffer wines are aging gracefully, a common practice among the great wineries of France. The climate of Long Island and the variety of grapes produced have been compared to the gold standard of Bordeaux. Wölffer was trying to prove it by meticulous vineyard practices such as sacrificing as much as 40% of the grapes to reduce yields and concentrate flavors. The wine library may one day prove him right. In addition to Merlot, the Wölffer winery produces Rosé, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and a Sparkling Cuveé Brut Méthode Champenoise. The 2005 Caya Cabernet Franc, 2005 Cassango Cabernet Sauvignon and 2007 Late Harvest Chardonnay all won Silver medals at this past New York Wine and Food Classic. The Long Island wine industry will certainly miss these two visionaries. However, their legacy will be the wines of the future and the wineries they both worked to establish and promote through many years of hard work and dedication. Anthony Frasca is a freelance writer and photographer. He lives in Setauket with his wife and three children. Comments to the wine editor can be made at mnkymn1956@gmail.com
Irish Embellisher
What could he be possibly thinking? I’m referring, of course, to my good friend Douglas McKaye Harrington, of the newly renamed North Shoreian magazine. “I think that you should do this month’s article on Scotch he opined.” It was one of those moments you take the phone away from your ear and look at it as though you had just heard something so unbelievable that certainly the speaker’s body must have been taken over by an alien being from outer space. Write about Scotch in the month of March? The Month in which we celebrate Saint Patrick’s Day, by the wearing of the green, watching the parade, or visiting our local public house for a yearly Guinness or two, not on this Mick’s watch. Maybe when in the month of March we have a Saint Angus day, a Martin Luther MacDuff or an Abraham MacDougal Day. Nay Laddie, not until then will I do an article on Scotch in the month of March. However, his desperation for consideration was quite well put when he suggested that “Scots are Gaelic too.” Can you think of any brand of spirit that has been named after a hero indigenous to his or her country? Pepe Lopez Tequila not a hero, Louis X111Cognac not a hero, Johnnie Walker Scotch not a hero, John Jameson Irish whiskey not a hero, Shakespeare Vodka, should you consider William to be a hero of literature can’t possibly qualify because its country of origin is Poland (Made from 100% Polish rye). That being said if, the “Big Fellow” knew the distinction that has been bestowed upon him I wonder what he would say. Michael Collins Irish Whiskeys are blended, distilled, aged and bottled by the only independent Irish owned distillery in Ireland. Michael Collins hand crafted whiskey comes in two styles, the first of which is a refined blend of double-distilled malt Irish whiskey, carefully blended to be well balanced and flavorful. The second selection the “Big Fellow” is a single malt which is doubled distilled in copper pot stills from 100% malted barley, some of which is Can you think of any brand of spirit dried over peat fires to give a unique, that has been named after a hero lightly peated flavor. indigenous to his or her country? Over the last forty or so years the liquor industry has gone through some remarkable changes. The age of the purist, although not over, has been rapidly making room for the embellishers of liquor products. While nursing his Bushmill’s whiskey, I remember one such purist of obvious Irish descent saying “If I wanted my vodka to taste like orange, I’d put orange juice in it”. Today we have vodka infused and blended with spice, fruit and in some cases even with vegetable. Is it fun or has it gone too far? Tequila and kiwi, cognac and passion fruit, I don’t want it to sound like I don’t appreciate the efforts of those who want to do the embellishing but can we draw the line at this beauty, Wide Eye MANGO CHILI SCHNAPPS? The reason that I wanted to bring this embellishment of products to your attention is to have you know that yes I’m guilty. I’m guilty of being an embellisher. I believe that I, alone, have improved upon the traditional Irish coffee. Order it anywhere and you’re going to get Irish whiskey, coffee, sugar and cream served in a glass. The purist wants Jameson’s or some other notable Irish whiskey, fresh hot coffee, and this is the most important part, “real whipped cream”, along with sugar on the side to be added as desired. From the purist point of view any other version is considered to be, at the very least, totally unacceptable. The word sacrilegious came to mind but I thought it was a little harsh so I didn’t use it. The embellisher probably from England, Scotland or Angola wants to take the liberty of improving upon this traditional beverage, he or she wants to dribble green crème de menthe or Irish Mist over the top of the hopefully “fresh whipped cream”, Others have been known to substitute Irish Mist for the Irish whiskey in an effort to improve the sweetness factor. Up until now it’s obvious that I’m taking the side of the purist, however I did pompously state that I alone have improved upon this traditional Irish beverage. It’s all about the sugar, the sugar, the presentation of the sugar, before the basic components go into the glass I want the glass to be frosted with sugar. What do you think? The hot coffee being slowly sipped through the melting sugar as it marries with the fresh cream and Irish whiskey? Yeah baby! That’s what I’m talking about. I’m an embellisher. I know that I’m not the only one out there with too much time on their hands. I know that some of you have had your Irish coffee in this manner either by family tradition or through a little inventive thought process, and I’m sure there are those of you that add your own little embellishments. Whatever your fancy to be, be it a whisky, liqueur, wine or beer, make sure you raise your glass this month of March and wish (Slainte Mhath) Good Health and (Sonas) happiness to those you hold dear. Here’s my toast to you, “May you have the hindsight to know where you’ve been, the foresight to know where you’re going and the insight to know when you’re going too far”. Jim Bliss is a 35 year veteran of the liquor business on Long Island. You would be hard pressed to find a restaurant or bar owner on the North Shore whose hand he hasn’t shook.
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