Fife Larder
21/5/10
12:23
Page 39
Where to Eat
■ The Seafood Restaurant Bruce Embankment, St Andrews 01334 479475, www.theseafoodrestaurant.com Mon–Sun noon–2.30pm, 6.30–10pm £22 (set lunch) / £45 (set dinner)
This eye-catching, glass-walled landmark sits right beside the Old Course and overlooking the West Sands. Elegant yet unstuffy, with contemporary cooking that’s assured at every turn, chef Craig Millar has put sustainability on the menu with clear descriptions of provenance. Find Skye scallops sweetly paired with a bolognaise-filled cannelloni and parmesan foam, or halibut from Gigha in oriental garb, whilst stone bass from the French Med has a perfectly crisp skin and rests on velvety linguine with mussels and sage.
■ The Seafood Restaurant 16 West End, St Monans 01333 730327, www.theseafoodrestaurant.com Mon–Sun noon–2.30pm, 6.30–10pm £22 (set lunch) / £38 (set dinner)
The pub atmosphere of the pre-dinner drinks area doesn’t prepare you for the delight of the light-filled contemporary restaurant beyond, with its Forth-filled views. The menu is mainly fish (sustainability and provenance noted), but there are other options, such as the firm-textured ham hock terrine accompanied by a bright piccalilli. Grey mullet from the English channel is fresh as can be, simply grilled with a well balanced lentil salsa, while elsewhere an equally simple chunk of perfectly cooked cod tops a creamy risotto. A foil to its younger sister restaurant in St Andrews, but no less appealing.
■ The Ship Inn The Toft, Elie 01333 330246, www.ship-elie.com Mon–Thu noon–2.30pm, 6–9pm; Fri/Sat noon–2.30pm, 6–9.30pm; Sun 12.30–3pm, 6–9pm £15
On a sunny day the Ship Inn is the focal point of Elie, with the cosy, wood-lined interior abandoned for the outdoor terrace with its bay views and ideal vantage for beach cricket. Top notch haddock and chips and pies are staples on the menu, with chalkboard specials and home-made burgers for Sunday barbecues. Owners Richard and Gill Philip have recently taken over the Golf Tavern across the bay in Earlsferry – again, expect spot-hitting bar food and real ales.
■ The Tailend
Set next to the Old Course and overlooking St Andrews’ Chariots of Fire beach, the Seafood Restaurant is Fife’s most striking and glamorous dining spot.
130 Market Street, St Andrews 01334 470070, www.tailendrestaurant.co.uk Mon–Sun 11.30am–10pm [fish counter open: Mon–Sat 9am–5pm]
A new arrival in St Andrews as this guide went to press, the Tailend has a promising pedigree, having turned heads in the past two years in Edinburgh with a fish and chip restaurant and takeaway serving a wide range of fish (not just haddock and cod) cooked not just in batter but also in breadcrumbs or simply grilled. The new venture will include a wet fish counter.
■ The Vine Leaf Restaurant 131 South Street, St Andrews 01334 477497, www.vineleafstandrews.co.uk Tue–Sat from 6.30pm. £23.50 (set dinner)
Chef Morag Hamilton’s lengthy menu displays a huge variety: scallops come with Balbirnie black pudding, while fillet of sea bass is wrapped in banana leaves with lemongrass and sweet chillies. Seasonal vegetarian dishes include butternut squash stuffed with Indian spiced vegetables and yoghurt raita, while an eight-hour, slowcooked lamb grabs the attention elsewhere. Home-made bread and icecream, plus husband Ian’s wellsourced cellar, confirm the individual touch. The Fife Larder 39