Fife Larder
21/5/10
12:23
Page 37
Where to Eat
Looking down over sloping fields to the towers and spires of St Andrews’ skyline, the Grange has the feel of a discerning local’s escape, whether squeezing into the snug back bar with its flagstones and crackling fires, or glancing at the view from the dignified main dining room. The menu doesn’t stray far from the tried and tested modern Scottish, served with friendly ease and no overdue fuss.
■ Haven Bar & Restaurant 1 Shore Street, Cellardyke 01333 310 574, www.havenrestaurant.co.uk Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5.30–8.30pm; Sun 12.30–3pm, 5.30–8.30pm £7.95 (set lunch) / £17.50 (dinner)
Set right beside Cellardyke’s old stone harbour, the Haven’s local reputation goes from strength to strength with a friendly welcome, summer barbecues, live music nights and, centrally, a strong line-up of better-than-average pub grub featuring dishes such as chowder, home-made chicken liver pate, scallops with potato rosti and vegetarian options including mushroom and beluga lentil moussaka. Children and Coastal-Path walkers are also made to feel welcome.
■ The Inn at Lathones Largoward, by St Andrews 01334 840494, www.theinn.co.uk Mon–Sun noon–9.30pm £27 (dinner)
This unassuming, white-walled inn is home to Scotland’s smallest music festival and the main dining room’s food is pretty glamorous too. Chef Richard Brackenbury changes his offering three times a year to follow the seasons. A tian of potted crab with lobster butter, crayfish tails and herb salad is a light contrast to the luxurious foie gras crème brûlée. Baked turbot with hand-dived scallops and leek and potato crumble is a comforting combo, as is the no-nonsense, mixed game steamed pudding on a slice of Stornoway black pudding.
■ The Peat Inn Peat Inn, near St Andrews 01334 840206, www.thepeatinn.co.uk Tue–Sat 12.30–1.30pm, 7pm–9pm £16 (set lunch) / £32 (set dinner)
The Peat Inn has existed on this spot since the 1700s and with chefproprietor Geoffrey Smeddle picking up a Michelin Star in 2010 has become (once again) one of Scotland’s most cherished destination restaurants. There’s little that’s ostentatious about the place, with a series of charming small dining rooms making up the restaurant. A variety of menus offer remarkably good value dining for this level of cooking and service.
■ Road Hole Restaurant Old Course Hotel, Golf Resort & Spa, St Andrews 01334 474371, www.oldcoursehotel.co.uk Tue–Sat 7–10pm £46 (set dinner)
Head chef Paul Hart, who has had a wide range of experience at top restaurants around the UK, offers an eight-course tasting menu also available for vegetarians. Interesting dishes such as ragout of Glen Isla hare bring Scottish ingredients to the fore. This is all prepared in an open kitchen, allowing culinary theatre in addition to the views of the St Andrews coastline. For a more informal meal, Sands Grill is a traditional grill house, whilst the Jigger Inn serves more familiar pub food dishes.
■ Rocca Bar & Grill
CHEF’S CHOICE IAN MCEWAN ON GREAT LOCAL VEG I’ve been dealing with my fruit and vegetable supplier, Ivan Wood & Sons, for 15 years now and we have a great relationship. Everything is brought in daily, and cooked daily, so it’s always fresh and great to work with. In winter I’ll roast their parsnips with a bit of heather honey, and in spring I’ll get rhubarb which we serve roasted with duck. One of the best sellers in the restaurant is scallops with black pudding and fennel purée – that’s fennel from Ivan and Malcolm Wood again. It’s all delivered fresh to the door and sometimes it feels that we can’t get it out on the tables quick enough. ■ Ian McEwan is head chef at Fabric in Dumfermline (see p.44). Ivan Wood & Sons are fruit and vegetable wholesalers based at Navity Farm, Ballingry, Fife, www.chefspride.co.uk
Rusacks Hotel, Pilmour Links, St Andrews 01334 472549, www.roccagrill.com Apr–Oct Mon–Sun 12.30–2.30pm, 6.30–9.30pm; Nov–Mar Mon–Sat 6.30–9.30pm; Sun 12.30–2.30pm £14 bar; £26 grill
This smart new restaurant and champagne bar is essentially Italian but uses Scottish produce where The Fife Larder 37