Where to Eat
Tormaukin Hotel Glendevon FK14 7JY 01259 781252, tormaukinhotel.co.uk Mon–Sun 7.30–9.30am, noon–2pm, 6–8.45pm.
During their recent refurbishment owners David and Lesley Morvy kept the 11-room hotel in peaceful Glendevon true to its roots with oak beams and roaring fireplaces still intact. The menu features what you might expect in a traditional, cosy, country inn with crowd-pleasing favourites such as steak and Guinness pie alongside more contemporary options such as pan-seared scallops, crispy pork belly and cod loin with Parma ham.
The Tower Gastro Pub 81 East High Street, Crieff PH7 3JA 01764 650050, thetowercrieff.com Sun–Thu 11am–9pm; Fri/Sat 11am–9.30pm.
This first venture for Bob and Annie Anderson is housed in an impressive former hotel, now with self-catering apartments upstairs, and separate bar and lounge on the ground floor. Utilising local produce, the menu offers familyfriendly dishes, from light lunches of sandwiches, soup or salads to pizzas, grills and pub classics. They also have one of the best beer gardens around, with children’s play area, chicken coop and veg allotment.
HIGHLAND PERTHSHIRE
CHEF’S CHOICE WILLIE DEANS ON HIGHLAND VENISON
Ardeonaig Hotel South Road, Loch Tay FK21 8SU 01567 820400, ardeonaighotel.co.uk Wed–Sun noon–10pm. (Residents only Mon/Tue.)
Dinner at this 17th-century coaching inn is a six-course tasting menu, while lunch is a short selection that could take in lobster with smoked salmon and apple puree. Maintaining the hotel’s longstanding reputation as a dining destination is head chef David Maskell, who learnt his trade under Andrew Fairlie. Typical of his dinner menu are hay-smoked salmon, or wild venison wellington, and he makes good use of the local and foraged larders for ingredients.
Atholl Arms Hotel Bridgehead, Dunkeld PH8 0AQ 01350 727219, athollarmshotel.com Mon–Sun noon–9pm.
The whitewashed Atholl Arms Hotel fills Dunkeld’s fine-dining niche with its elegant Riverview Restaurant overlooking the Tay. Well-heeled travellers are welcomed with a hearty repast including Cullen skink, crispyskinned yet pink duck breast, wild mushrooms and Puy lentils flourished with colourful beetroot jus. The less pricey Inn @ The Atholl bar serves pub grub throughout the day.
Yann’s at Glenearn House The Auld Smiddy Inn
Perth Road, Crieff PH7 3EQ 01764 650111, yannsatglenearnhouse.com Wed–Sat 5–9pm; Sun noon–2pm, 6.30–9pm. Closed Mon/Tue.
154 Atholl Road, Pitlochry PH16 5AG 01796 472356, auldsmiddyinn.co.uk Mon–Sun noon–2.30pm, 5pm–9pm.
Frenchman Yannick Grospellier, a former chef for Malmaison and Hotel du Vin in Edinburgh, and his Scottish wife Shari have run this Victorian guest house since 2008, turning it into a local institution. Yann’s steak frites are the stuff of legend – a lean, tender, 28-day-dried ribeye cut, served with fries or dauphinoise potatoes and peppercorn sauce. Finish with apple crumble made with fruit picked from Glenearn House’s own garden.
The Auld Smiddy Inn was once, as its name suggests, Pitlochry’s old blacksmith’s forge. Now the whitewashed restaurant fashions menus of contemporary Scots classics including game terrine with red onion marmalade or chargrilled Angus sirloin with melted Dunsyre Blue cheese. Seasonal seafood is on the specials board, while seafood weekends and other themed food nights are detailed on its website.
In Perthshire I have grown accustomed to having worldclass ingredients all around me and at my doorstep. From using microherbs grown by Scotherbs in Longforgan and hand picking the season’s chanterelles and berries, we are truly spoilt for choice. We have had a great relationship with our venison supplier, Highland Game, who are based in Dundee but source from all over the Highlands. My tip to serving tender and juicy venison is not to overcook it and always allow the meat to rest for about 10 minutes before carving and serving. This will work wonders for the texture and taste. Cook venison until either rare or rosy to ensure maximum flavour and tenderness. ■ Willie Deans is head chef and proprietor of Deans at Let’s Eat Restaurant in Perth (see page 33)
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