Where to Eat
Q Esperante Fairmont Hotel, St Andrews 01334 837000, fairmont.com Wed–Sun 6.30–9.30pm.
The brilliantly lit, Hockneyesque mural of a sun-drenched vineyard Àlls one side of the bar of this opulent, top-end eaterie. The main seating area is out to impress: huge polished wine glasses, immaculate linen and large tables. The restaurant is aiming to build a reputation based on sound ingredients but with a southern European and international Áair to suit the cosmopolitan clientele of this Fairmont operation.
Q The Glass House Restaurant 80 North Street, St Andrews 01334 473673, houserestaurants.com Mon–Sun noon–10.30pm
What was once a Salvation Army hall is now a split-level, contemporary space with a regularly buzzing atmosphere. Locals come back for the evening specials which emphasise well-sourced seafood and venison, and the students enjoy keen pricing deals (£5.95 for a two-course lunch) and reliable Italian classics based on good ingredients.
Q The Golf Tavern 5 Links Road, Earlsferry 01333 330610, golftavern-elie.com Mon–Thu noon–2.30pm, 6–9pm; Fri/ Sat noon–2.30pm, 6–9.30pm; Sun 12.30–3pm, 6–9pm.
Don’t be fooled by the Golf Tavern’s quaint village pub-like exterior, for beyond the bar lies a substantial restaurant serving quality food to rival any regular pub grub. It’s affectionately known as the ‘19th Hole’ by locals, given its proximity to the golf course. Diners can expect hearty cooking with portions to match while the Tavern also runs regular wine promotions.
Q The Haven Bar & Restaurant 1 Shore Street, Cellardyke 01333 310 574, haven-restaurant. co.uk
Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5.30–8.30pm; Sun 12.30–3pm, 5.30–8.30pm.
Set on Cellardyke’s scenic harbour, you can imagine the Haven as a well-worn haunt of smugglers, sailors and Àshermen. While it still has the reassuringly comfortable air of an old-fashioned public house, the décor and dining options suggest a more gentriÀed target market. The upstairs bar and lounge is snug but comfortable, and the menu offers a similarly warming take on old pub food favourites and is equally conÀdent at sea or in the Àeld.
Q Honeypot Guest House and Tearoom 6 High Street South, Crail, Anstruther 01333 450935, honeypotcrail.co.uk Thu–Mon 10.30am–4pm
Within walking distance of Crail harbour, Honeypot is a friendly, informal tearoom that stretches breakfast into afternoon tea with a familiar lunch offering and chalkboard specials sandwiched in-between. While the rooms in the connected B&B grab the available sea views, the café is nonetheless fresh and bright with a smattering of tables alongside the open servery counter. Local butcher Penmans supplies the meat for rolls or plated breakfasts, while there’s a steady supply of home-made cakes and traybakes.
Q The Inn at Lathones Largoward, by St Andrews 01334 840494, theinn.co.uk Mon–Sun noon–9.30pm
This unassuming, white-walled inn is home to Scotland’s smallest music festival and the main dining room’s food is pretty glamorous too. Chef Richard Brackenbury changes his offering three times a year to follow the seasons. A tian of potted crab with lobster butter, crayÀsh tails and herb salad is a light contrast to the luxurious foie gras crème brûlée. Baked turbot with hand-dived scallops and leek and potato crumble is a comforting combo, as is the no-nonsense, mixed game steamed pudding on a slice of Stornoway black pudding.
CHEF’S CHOICE CHRISTOPHER TROTTER ON KALE
I rediscovered kale when I returned to Fife some 20 years ago and feel it needs to be better recognised. Its available in most forms here: the ubiquitous curly, asparagus, red and the rich sounding cousin cavolo nero (which is, of course, simply black kale to you and me). It’s a year-round vegetable – I stir fry it cooking the stalks first and then throw in the colourful, crunchy shredded leaves at the end, as they take no time to cook. One variety not grown commercially in Fife is sea kale, although it is possible to find it growing wild. It’s cultivated successfully in Angus. It is high time an innovative Fife farmer stepped up to the mark and provided us with this wonderful vegetable in February! Q Chef, writer and consultant Christopher Trotter is co-author of The Whole Hog (2010).
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