FISH
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EDINBURGH
FISH For a city by the sea, Edinburgh has only a few restaurants specialising in fish and seafood, ranging from formal dining experiences offering extravagantly priced shellfish to simple mussel and chips places. Most source their seafood from Scotland, advertising the provenance of their produce and sometimes even namechecking individual fishermen. Though the quality is generally high, the variety on offer is quite conservative. Nevertheless, a fish-centred meal is usually a rewarding experience, whether you’re seeking a high-end experience or a more casual catch-up with friends. Reviewers: Yana Thandrayen
NEW Cadiz First Floor, 77b George Street, City Centre, 0131 226 3000, cadizedinburgh. co.uk | £14.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)
Opened in the summer of 2016, Cadiz is housed in the previously unused space above its more casual sister Café Andaluz. They’ve done a great job of creating an elegant bar and restaurant: the lighting is soft, colour palette blue with natural wood and exposed stone, and there’s also a cosy mural-covered room that can be hired. You could just as happily sit at the marble-topped bar tables shucking briny Cumbrae oysters and sipping cocktails as move to the comfortable leather seats for a meal. The food is a fusion of Scottish, Spanish and Mediterranean dishes but mainly sticks with faultless, if familiar, dishes such as fried calamari or grilled prawns. The main menu is split in to small and large plates, the latter ranging from grilled sea bass enlivened by a lemon and green olive sauce to fish and chips with delicious minty pea purée. There’s a short list of puddings, the standout of which is the crème catalane which arrives at the table ablaze, the flames
caramelising the sugar topping. + Lovely setting and seriously good drinks list - Pity there are not more ambitious seafood options
✱ Fishers in Leith 1 The Shore, Leith, 0131 554 5666, fishersbistros.co.uk | £15 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)
Fisher’s in Leith has a formidable reputation for cooking consistently good fish and seafood sourced in Scotland. It’s one of those places known as ‘an Edinburgh institution’ and is ever-popular with tourists while still attracting a loyal local clientele. Opened in 1991, this is the original Fisher’s restaurant and has a homelier atmosphere than its larger city centre sister, as well as a different menu. What’s on offer is shaped by the best, freshest produce available on the day, so you may find a delicate whole grey sole or a meaty seabass paired with Eyemouth crab. Starters can range from a light squid salad to a substantial smoked haddock risotto. The cooking is unfussy, letting the flavours of the main ingredients shine. It’s not all fish – steaks are always available on the Fishers favourites menu and there’s a meat choice on the à la carte. For vegetarians, there’s a separate menu but you need to request it. Housed in a 17th-century watchtower on the Leith waterfront, this informal restaurant is also a fine location for summer outdoor dining. + One of the best for simply cooked whole fish - Can get noisy
Fishers in the City 58 Thistle Street, New Town, 0131 225 5109, fishersrestaurantgroup.co.uk | £15 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)
For a large city centre restaurant, Fishers has a surprisingly intimate feel, with its low lighting, neutral colours and fishing bric-a-brac. Split into three areas, the most popular seats are by the tank of fish (purely ornamental and not destined for dinner). This is the younger, bigger sister to Fishers in Leith, and though the menu is different, the casual bistro-style dining
is the same. The Fishers favourites are an unchanging list of popular choices such as hefty fishcakes, smoky chowder or fish and chips. Things get more interesting on the à la carte with fillets of firm-fleshed brill on a bed of bacon-spiked cabbage or hake paired with dense, rich morcilla. Puddings are well-executed staples such as sticky toffee pudding or a crème brûlée. The cooking is reliable rather than adventurous making it a safe bet for visitors and locals alike. It can get very busy, and it’s not unusual for corporate clients to book out whole areas at certain times, so check in advance. + Winning formula that keeps the customers coming in - Flaccid chips
The Mussel and Steak Bar 110 West Bow, Grassmarket, Old Town, 0131 225 5028, musselandsteakbar. com | £12.50 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)
With its Grassmarket location, you’d be forgiven for thinking this inviting white and blue-fronted restaurant could be something of a tourist trap. But there’s no complacency here – it’s a place that prides itself on doing the simple things well. And those things are mussels and steaks. The air is heavy with the scent of garlic as pots of blue shell mussels are delivered to expectant diners. They don’t disappoint: these Shetland-grown shellfish are sweet and fleshy and come with a choice of four sauces. Various chargrilled steaks are on offer, from 38-day aged Scottish beef to a mighty 1kg Tomahawk steak. Besides the eponymous options, other seafood such as grilled langoustines, scallops and oysters form the core of the menu, and their beef dripping chips deserve a special mention, perfectly crunchy on the outside and fluffy within. Desserts, such as a spongy sticky toffee pudding, are crowd pleasers rather than inventive confections, and though a Mellis cheeseboard is served too cold, the addition of honeycomb and quality thick oatcakes redeems it. + Stunning surf and turf of mussels, crevettes and 8oz ribeye - Distracting TV on the wall showing nature footage
✱ HITLIST
FISH ✱ Fishers in Leith One of Leith’s survivors, its longevity is based on a rock-solid reputation for showcasing Scottish fish. ✱ Ondine Sophisticated modern restaurant serving some of the finest seafood in Edinburgh. Mussel Inn 61–65 Rose Street, New Town, 0131 225 5979, mussel-inn.com | £7.95 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)
With a menu reminiscent of Belgian moules-frîtes places, this bustling city centre restaurant is all about simple tasty food. Two shellfish farmers and a chef set it up in 1998 with the ambition of bringing Scottish seafood back to local tables. The precise location from where the mussels are picked is chalked up on the daily specials board highlighting the restaurant’s direct relationship with producers. Black
Passionate about Seafood 61-65 Rose Street Edinburgh EH2 2NH Reservations 0131 225 5979 157 Hope Street Glasgow G2 2UQ Reservations 0141 572 1405
www.mussel-inn.com The Mussel and Steak Bar: it's all about the seafood and meat at this Old Town all-rounder The List Eating & Drinking Guide 61
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11/04/2017 15:39