Eating & Drinking Guide 2017

Page 142

FRENCH

list.co.uk

GLASGOW

INDIAN Glasgow has a wealth of traditional curry houses that cater for all tastes, palates, and wallets. But there’s also a trend towards more authentic Punjabi cuisine picking up pace, too. Whether you prefer the former or the latter, there’s an abundance of choice, in a city that boasts a burning passion for, and perhaps some of the country’s best, Indian food. What ties them all together is an emphasis on warm welcomes, friendly service and big flavours. Reviewers: Marta Matvijev, Robbie Armstrong

Ashoka • 19 Ashton Lane, West End, 0141 337 1115, ashokaashtonlane.com | £7.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner) • 9 Kirk Road, Bearsden, 0141 570 0075, ashokabearsden.info | £17 (dinner) • 268 Clarkston Road, Southside, 0141 637 0711, ashokasouthside.info | £17 (dinner) • 1284 Argyle Street, West End, 0141 339 3371, ashokawestend.com | £17 (dinner)

Côte Brasserie: French classics at this sophisticated city centre brasserie

TIPLIST FOR PRE-THEATRE • Amarone 146 A relaxed yet sophisticated city centre restaurant with outstanding menus and an interesting wine list. • Bo’Vine Meats 162 and Wines Smart, hotel-based steak restaurant on Byres Road specialising in quality Scotch beef and fine wines.

137 • Gamba Sophisticated, creative two AA rosette-winning restaurant that has championed sustainable Scottish fish and seafood for two decades. 158 • Number 16 This relaxed West End bistro draws on Scottish seasonal ingredients and global inspiration to deliver something out of the ordinary. 122 • Red Onion Impressive city centre bistro committed to local produce and catering for specific dietary needs with extensive gluten-free and vegan menus. • Two Fat Ladies 138 in the City Buzzy, confident city centre restaurant with consistently good cooking and some contemporary flourishes on the plate.

Le Chalet Beaumartin 518 Great Western Road, West End, 0141 237 3363, lechaletbeaumartin. co.uk | Closed Sun/Mon | £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Step off Great Western Road, into what feels like a small chalet in the French Alps. It’s a cosy space with just a handful of pine wood tables, skiing equipment hangs on the wall, while French radio plays in the background. A concise menu consists of raclette, charcuterie and a couple of salads but fondue is what they are all about. Cheese comes from Mellis next door and changes depending on what’s on offer that day – a combination of three French cheeses and one Scottish is said to provide the most appeal to the local palate and may be a combination comté, tomme de savoie, gouda and reblochon. Bread is of the sourdough variety – slightly stale, as should be, to ensure no disintegration when dipped into the gloopy thick molten cheese pot. Milk chocolate fondue finishes the meal as it started – rich and full of flavour, with diced fresh fruits adding the necessary juice and acidity. BYOB helps to keep prices reasonable, with the £5 corkage donated to charity. Le Chalet Beaumartin is comfort eating at its best. + A quaint setting and cheese lovers’ paradise - Limited options if cheese is not your thing

the background while formally dressed waiting staff offer a discreet service. Peruse the menu while nibbling on a piece of pissaladiére – a warm flatbread originating from Nice, spread with a generous amount of caramelised onions and melted reblochon cheese. Elsewhere, spinach and mushroom crêpes make a tasty light main, baked with a selection of earthy wild mushrooms and nutty gruyère cheese, the iron-laden spinach balancing the dish well. Veal, lamb, duck and a bouillabaisse-style fish dish all feature, plus a grill section that includes reasonably priced steak, cooked to blush over chargrill and very tasty indeed, the quality of the 30-day aged, grain-fed meat is evident. Save room for a pudding, there are a few treats to be had, from the classic crème brûlée and tarte au citron through to a cracking chocolate fondant, oozing and rich, a simple vanilla icecream allows the fondant to shine. + Feels like a little bit of Paris in Glasgow - Food slightly predictable

The Honours Malmaison, 278 West George Street, City Centre See Bistros & Brasseries

Hotel du Vin Bistro 1 Devonshire Gardens, West End See Scottish

111 by Nico Côte Brasserie 41–43 West Nile Street, City Centre, 0141 248 1022, cote-restaurants.co.uk | £10.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Bringing a little Parisian charm to the city centre, Côte Brassiere’s formula works up and down the UK, serving trusted Gallic dishes amid stylish surroundings – chequered flooring, plenty of wood, muted lighting and leather banquets set an intimate scene. Soft music plays in

111 Cleveden Road, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

Restaurant at Blythswood Square 11 Blythswood Square, City Centre See Scottish

The Western Club Restaurant 32 Royal Exchange Square, City Centre See Scottish

In a city with a richly spiced history in curry cuisine, the Ashoka chain has stood proud with a presence here for over 40 years. While a common thread of dependable, mainstream and crowd-pleasing curries connects all the branches there are variations, particularly in age and appearance, starting with the original West End venue (opened 1973) close to Kelvingrove Park, with later branches opening on the cobbles of Ashton Lane, in suburban Bearsden and in Muirend on the city’s Southside. Once all under the Harlequin umbrella, they were put up for sale in 2016, yet so familiar are they to Glaswegians, it’s doubtful any new owners will make sudden changes. Starters typically range from pakoras (including the very popular haggis variety) and bhajis to the sweet and spicy chicken chaat drumsticks and big platters offering variety tasters. For mains, North Indian favourites rule (dhansaks, bhoonas, kormas, dopiazas) with the occasional dosa from southern India or Himalayan hotpot making appearances at some branches. Tandoori grill selections are common and popular, offering meaty treats such as blackened, succulent lamb chops, lamb tikka and kebabs. + Dependable curries, available to most Glaswegians - Few surprises on the menu

✱ Babu Bombay Street Kitchen 186 West Regent Street, City Centre, 0141 204 4042, babu-kitchen.com | Closed Sun | £18 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

This basement space has been specialising in authentic Indian street food, Mumbai-style, since way before street eats became the latest culinary buzzword. The menu breaks things down into cold and hot street food, and homestyle curries. There’s a rotating selection of hawker-style specials made fresh – but always a dhal, veg curry and non-veg option on offer. Expect a whole spectrum of taste and colour to come out of a tiny kitchen that clearly respects authenticity, quality of cooking and ingredients. Although there’s a focus on the humblest of vegetables like

140 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

EDG17 Glasgow Listings.indd 140

11/04/2017 15:54


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