MEXICAN
In association with
GLASGOW
MEXICAN Mexican food dropped onto the plates of grateful Glaswegians two decades ago with joyful piles of nachos and fajitas, served with ranch-style beans, cheese, jalapeños and sour cream. It is a natural fit for Glasgow, plenty of carbs and a macho zing of chilli, all washed down with margaritas. But in recent years, a little more care has introduced the city to regional and Caribbean variations, a more varied approach to the cuisine and subtle new flavours. But some good places have come and gone already. Hopefully, the city can continue to support the remaining stalwarts and encourage them on to even greater things. Reviewer: Andrea Pearson
NEW Barburrito • 138 Queen Street, City Centre (Map 6: F4, 124) 0141 221 9330, barburrito.co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner) • 5 Gordon Street, City Centre (Map 6: E5, 99) 0141 248 3364 | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner) • 115 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: D4, 85) 0141 243 2321 | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)
Formerly Pinto Mexican Kitchen, the three Glasgow city centre branches of this local chain were taken over by Barburrito in late 2015. The Manchester-based group, who opened their first burrito bar in 2005 and now have over a dozen Mexican eateries across the UK, plans to rebrand the Scottish Pintos (including Edinburgh) in April–May 2016. Expect much the same style of casual Tex-Mex offerings, delivering fast and fresh food in an ‘uno, dos, tres’ ordering process – choose burrito (including classic, loaded and a ‘superfood’ version giving you four of your five-a-day veggies), tacos or nachos; pick a filling such as pulled pork, shredded beef or veggie; and add salsa
on an incremental heat scale. Additional Barburrito touches planned include more rice options and featured ‘limited edition’ fillings to pack into those handy holdalls of Tex-Mex goodness. [Not open for a full review at time of going to press – check list.co.uk/food for updates.]
Bibi’s Cantina 599 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: A3, off) 0141 579 0179, bibiscantina. com | £6.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)
Bibi’s is a cosy, neighbourhood restaurant that has been trumpeting the Mexican cause longer than most. Now, thankfully, the little cantina with the big heart – friendly staff table complimentary mini margaritas and tortillas on arrival – is thriving. The menu varies a little with the season but some popular starters are guaranteed to make an appearance – among them are the rich and spicy Mexican meatball soup and the chilli rellenos, delightful deep-fried jalapeño peppers stuffed with a soft white cheese. Some of the main tortilla and burrito fillings incorporate traditional ingredients and techniques; these include a classic chicken mole made with chocolate, and shredded pork, baked slowly in banana leaves. Fish and seafood is fresh and confidently cooked and despite the inevitable battering and frying, the accompanying salsa, pickled veg and chopped chillies help to assuage the cholesterol guilt. Every course does seem to feature tortilla chips – even dessert where they appear with cinnamon, honey and ice-cream – but they are good, and with a range of choice high-end tequilas to accompany, who’s counting? + Chilli rellenos - Tortillas with everything
Pancho Villa’s 26 Bell Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 28) 0141 552 7737, panchovillas.co.uk | £8.50 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)
Pancho Villa’s deserves recognition as a member of the early wave of Merchant City food and drink establishments having arrived nearly two decades ago. It is still going strong despite the fact that its generous two-storey premises would no doubt appeal to chains or breweries eyeing up the hospitality-focused destination. That said, the once cheerful-
looking interior with its bright murals (including a large homage to Frida Kahlo) and wooden cantina-style tables and chairs, is starting to show it’s age a bit. The no-fuss cantina feel permeates other aspects too – food arrives swiftly, portions are large, and there is a slight lack of subtlety in some of the dishes – the house special chipotle chicken is big on creamy, garlicky sauce but rather too light on the delicate chipotle flavour. However, there are some good flourishes to be found – the tender lamb barbacoa tacos, for instance, just melt in the mouth. An ideal spot for large groups and celebrations with tapas deals, student discounts and party extras. + Swift service and big portions - Seems hurried
Taco Mazama • Central Station, City Centre (Map 6: D5, 91) 0141 230 8127 6 Renfield Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 91) 0141 248 8940, tacomazama. co.uk | £7.99 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner) • 263 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C1, 44) 0141 337 3399, tacomazama. co.uk | £7.99 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)
When Taco Mazama opened its first branch on Renfield Street back in 2010 it wasn’t just a breath of fresh air, it was a large, zesty lungful of Tex-Mex deliciousness. It brought us bulging burritos and crispy tacos rammed with slow-cooked beef and silky, spicy fresh veg and all served in a funky, friendly atmosphere. Taco still does all that, in three easy ordering steps – tortilla or bowl, filling, salsas and sauces – while also catering really well for both spicelovers and the more palate-cautious with add-on sauces providing a choice of heat intensities so they can be applied or avoided as desired. The expanding family of branches – the original was joined by a Byres Road venue, then a branch in Central Station and now they’re in Edinburgh as well – makes one feel that the original vision is perhaps in danger of being diluted. That said, the fresh flavours conjured up make it still one of the best dinner-insilver-foil options in town. + Freshly made and extra heat if desired - US mall-style production line
✱ HITLIST
MEXICAN ✱ Topolabamba Lively Tex-Mex bar and diner that serves Mexican classics and offers great £1 and tasting deals. ✱
Topolabamba
89 St Vincent Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 72) 0141 248 9359, topolabamba.com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)
Topolabamba is that all too rare find – a lively city centre bar/diner that serves fresh food at great prices. The menu mixes tapas dishes (around a fiver each) such as tacos and quesadillas with blokey Tex-Mex ‘Big Boys’ of ribs, burgers and burritos while intolerances and chilli strengths are clearly indicated. Wings, ribs and fish tacos are go-to dishes and the latter do not disappoint. Crispy hunks of the day’s catch, wrapped in soft tacos with a drizzle of Mexican crema are dreamy for anyone with fondness for these posh fish finger sandwiches. Intriguing combos such as the guacamole and black bean tostadas or the quesadillas with cactus and smoked chilli also feature. Among the ‘Classics’ is a cheese fundido, or fondue, served with tortilla chips – they are very salty, so do have a Caipirinha cocktail or a chilled Dos Equis beer to hand, or follow swiftly with a horchata ice-cream. There is certainly an attempt to bring a taste of real Mexico to Glasgow and the jovial staff make you feel as if you have been specially invited along for that purpose. + Great value and helpful, jolly staff - Very salty tortillas
Bibi’s Cantina: a lively neighbourhood cantina with the big heart, confident traditional cooking and a range of tequilas The List Eating & Drinking Guide 161
EDG16-Glasgow listings PM.indd 161
12/04/2016 12:56