SOUTHSIDE CITY GUIDE
a bit unusual, and do it for blindingly good value. Roast bone marrow, Borders hare and surf clams are typical of an unpatronising, inventive menu. And with its muted, relatively un-styled appearance, it feels very much like the kind of authentic, laidback place where the focus is on the food, rather than the interior design brief.
El Quijote SPANISH 13a Brougham Street, EH3 9JS, 0131 478 2856, quijotetapas.co.uk | Mon–Thu 5–10pm; Fri–Sun 12.30–10pm. £20 (lunch/dinner)
The happy bustle of the well-fed diners clustered into El Quijote’s snug interior tells you all you need to know about this unassuming Tollcross tapas bar. Maria Giminez and head chef Oscar Mateos show off a different side to Spanish cuisine, eschewing predictable tapas in favour of Andalucian specialities such as salmorejo, a chilled soup garnished with salty ham and grated egg or tender pork cheeks stewed in an intense peppery liquor.
Indaba AFRICAN/SPANISH/SOUTH AMERICAN 3 Lochrin Terrace, EH3 9QJ, 0131 221 1554, edindaba.co.uk | Tue–Thu 5–10pm; Fri/Sat 5–11pm. Closed Sun/Mon. £16 (dinner)
Cosy little Indaba is tucked around the corner from the Cameo Cinema in Tollcross, and offers tapas with a difference and truly something for everyone. People with gluten and wheat intolerances will be delighted with a menu that fuses Spanish, South African, Venezuelan and Scottish cuisine. Meats include a spattering of chorizo dishes alongside haggis a la murciana (with spinach and pine nuts). Del mar dishes include a lovely gambas pil-pil with Indaba’s own chilli tomato sauce, and vegetarians should enjoy pisto murciano, an aubergine, tomato and pepper stew.
Kampong Ah Lee Malaysian Delight MALAYSIAN 28 Clerk Street, EH8 9HX, 0131 662 9050, kampongahlee.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–3pm, 5–11pm; Fri–Sun noon–11pm. £10.50 (lunch/ dinner)
A compact, canteen-style restaurant with a menu demonstrating the fusion nature of Malay cooking with multi-ethnic influences, such as Hacka, Hokkien and Hai Nan from China; Indian curries; tom yum from Thailand; and Indonesian rendang alongside Malay classics such as nasi lemak and mee goreng. The dishes are based around rice, noodles and soups, with mixed meats, seafood, tofu and plenty of vegetarian options available. With lower prices than its sister restaurant in Tollcross, this is the no-frills version of the Kampong / Kampung experience, but it’s satisfying all the same.
Mezbaan South Indian Restaurant INDIAN 14/14a Brougham Street, EH3 9JH, 0131 229 5578, mezbaan.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–3pm, 5–11pm. £12 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)
South Indian restaurants offer a refreshing change from the Punjabi-based menus normally on offer in Edinburgh. Old favourites are still available for the less adventurous, but for anybody looking to experiment, Mezbaan is a great place to start. Wheat or gluten intolerant diners will be enjoy giant dosas made with rice and lentil flour. Although offering a range of meat and vegetarian dishes, the restaurant specialises in seafood. The benefits of having a chef who spends four days preparing his own garam masala spice blend are obvious.
Nonna’s Kitchen ITALIAN 45 Morningside Road, EH10 4AZ, 0131 466 6767, nonnas-kitchen.co.uk | Tue–Sun 10am–2.45pm, 5–10pm. Closed Mon. £13 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)
Owner Gino Stornaiuolo named his establishment in tribute to his two grandmothers, but it is the contribution of his parents that brings the restaurant to life. While father works his magic in the kitchen, mother charms regulars, tourists and drop-ins. Traditional starters, such as baked aubergine and mozzarella in a flavour-packed tomato
sauce, are enhanced by options that could include scallops, black pudding and pesto on a specials list equal in length to the menu. The nonnas would surely approve.
Peter’s Yard
Passorn THAI 23–23a Brougham Place, EH3 9JU, 0131 229 1537, passornthai.com | Mon 5–11pm; Tue–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5–11pm. Closed Sun. £9.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)
Cindy Sritsotorn has carved out a niche by holding true to her passion for good cooking and uncompromising commitment to quality ingredients. The mains selection includes an appropriately celestial angel curry, and fresh-spiced choo chee sea bass in a fragrant coconut and lemongrass sauce is good enough to cause a socially inappropriate episode of plate-licking. The food is done simply, but very well, and the exceptional quality of the meat and fish produce – delivered daily by local suppliers – speaks volumes about the attentive and precise approach.
Rhubarb SCOTTISH Prestonfield House, Priestfield Road, EH16 5UT, 0131 226 2303, prestonfield.com | Mon–Thu noon–2pm, 6.30–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–2pm, 6–11pm; Sun 12.30–3pm, 6.30–10pm. £16.95 (set lunch) / £43 (dinner)
Prepare to be transported to a place of indulgence, located in the grand setting of Prestonfield House, where Rhubarb wows from start to finish. Pure decadence is reflected in the rich fabrics, evocative fragrances and delightful service. The à la carte menu is equally grand, showcasing tender slow-cooked lamb smoked with rosemary and served with crisp sweetbreads, liver royale and buttermilk potato mousseline. This is a unique experience, perfect for a special occasion, but the sumptuous surroundings can also be sampled with a reasonably priced table d’hote menu.
Rice Terraces FILIPINO 93 St Leonard’s Street, EH8 9QY, 0131 629 9877, rice-terraces.com | Tue–Fri 5–11pm; Sat/ Sun noon–11pm. Closed Mon. £12 (lunch/dinner)
Edinburgh’s only Filipino restaurant is a family-run affair with an informal, homely ambience. A welcome recent addition is the excellent value kamayan set menu, which features an array of meat and seafood dishes, while the à la carte options reflect the ‘East meets West’ fusion nature of Filipino cuisine. Starters include spring rolls with a garlic vinegar dip and chicken, and for the main course a whole squid comes stuffed with a faintly sweet concoction of minced pork and vegetables.
Sweet Melindas FISH 11 Roseneath Street, EH9 1JH, 0131 229 7953, sweetmelindas.co.uk | Tue–Sat noon–2pm, 6–10pm. Closed Sun/Mon. £13.50 (lunch) / £23 (dinner)
Being located a few doors down from Eddie’s hallowed Seafood Market means the freshest fish is literally on the doorstep. This, plus the fact that practically everything is homemade using some serious kitchen skills, means Sweet Melindas punches well above its weight. Mains show skilful handling: fillets of bass and bream are beautifully cooked, served on a tangle of spaghetti with crab and pecorino, while the soy, ginger and lemongrass sauce on the hake is a firm favourite.
Tanjore INDIAN 6–8 Clerk Street, EH8 9HX, 0131 478 6518, tanjore.co.uk/ | Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 5–10pm; Sat/Sun noon–3.30pm, 5–10pm. £11 (lunch/ dinner)
When you head to Tanjore, there are two reasons to bring an appetite. First, this is where to sample the finest Southern Indian cuisine in Edinburgh. Second, you’ll be tempted to order everything on the enticing, extensive menu. Giant, theatrical dosas dwarf the plates they’re served on, stuffed with your choice of fillings and accompanied by several chutneys that range from hot, garlicky tomato, through tart mint, coconut and chilli, to the majestic sambar.
Voujon INDIAN 107 Newington Road, EH9 1QW, 0131 667 5046, voujonedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Sun 5.30–11.30pm. £18 (lunch/dinner)
Despite its setting away from the heart of town, Voujon has a decidedly slick, city-centre feel, with white table cloths and angular contemporary crockery. The primarily Bengali and North Indian menu features a solid number of usual suspects alongside a scattering of adventurous options. There’s a precision in the cooking that makes the dishes more fresh than fiery. Vegetarians are well catered for across the board and the accomplished selection of bread and rice options leave no stone unturned – the ghee bat basmati rice, fried in Indian butter and fresh onions, is a particular highlight.
Wing Sing Inn CHINESE 147–149 Dundee Street, EH11 1BP, 0131 228 6668 | Mon–Sun noon–2.30pm; 5–11pm. £12 (lunch/ dinner)
Pork lung, jellyfish and preserved eggs all feature here: popular standard fare for the many Chinese customers who visit, less so for the Scottish ones. Adventurous diners are rewarded richly: tender frogs’ legs come à la crispy chilli squid with the lightest of batters, while slivers of meat are served with crisp fungus and a glossy mahogany sauce in the deeply savoury Yu Hung pork. The food is interesting, unusual and seriously good, and really is the only reason to visit, as the Wing Sing is remarkably unremarkable otherwise.
surpassed by the grain at 56 North. Burgers are a big deal on the menu here, while for those after something a little lighter, there’s also a wide range of salads and topped flatbreads.
Greenmantle 133 Nicolson Street, EH8 9JP, 0131 662 8741, greenmantlepub.co.uk/ | Mon–Sat noon–1am; Sun 12.30pm–1am. £11 (lunch/dinner)
Priding themselves on their selection of single malts, the full range of whiskies is always changing, as are the four guest ales, which customers are welcome to taste before making up their minds. The food on offer is uncomplicated, traditional pub fare, the slight twist being that the burgers are made from buffalo meat from Puddledub in Fife. With a multitude of toppings available, customers can create their ideal buffalo, chicken or falafel burger.
Henricks Bar & Bistro 1 Barclay Place, EH10 4HW, 0131 229 2442, henricksbar.com | Mon–Sun 10am–1am (food till 10pm). £10.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)
This bistro bar on the edge of the Meadows has carved a niche between formal dining and local pub grub. It attracts a pre-theatre crowd with the King’s nearby, as well as lunchtime couples, those seeking brunch at weekends, late-night drinkers and many in between. The compact menu covers the basics well without trying too hard and the wine list leans heavily to Australia, where the manager did a harvest in 2007.
The Royal Dick Bar & Bistro Summerhall, EH9 1 PL, 0845 874 3000, summerhall.co.uk/bar-cafe | Mon–Sun noon–1am (food till 10pm). £18 (lunch/dinner)
DRINKS The Blackbird 37–39 Leven Street, EH3 9LH, 0131 228 2280, theblackbirdedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Sun 10am– 1am (food till 10pm). £12 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)
The orange bicycle riding high above the door would tell anyone who has been away from Leven Street for a while that the Auld Toll is no more and The Blackbird has taken flight. This gastro-influenced bar has a bright, contemporary interior which matches the sunny disposition of the staff, its menu offering up the likes of wild mushrooms on toast, pan-fried halibut fillet and a braised Scottish lamb shank.
56 North 6–8 West Crosscauseway, EH8 9JP, 0131 662 8860, fiftysixnorth.co.uk | Mon–Sun 11am–1am (food till 9pm). £10 (set lunch) / £16.50 (dinner)
With a drinks menu dominated by cocktails, spirits feature heavily in the arsenal of bottles behind the bar of this Newington establishment. From vodkas flavoured with kiwi, marmalade and vanilla, to gins sourced from the UK, Europe and USA, the grape is definitely
Summerhall’s Royal Dick bar/bistro is about adventure, and it’s an adventure just finding it: head through the grandiose entrance hall that once welcomed veterinary students, and it still feels like you shouldn’t run in the corridor. Out through a courtyard, and there’s the bar, with its (disinfected) operating table, animal bone wall art and enormous model ship. It feels like a house party thrown by an eccentric collector, with a drinks cabinet that includes highly recommended exclusive craft ales made by resident micro-brewery Barney’s Beer.
The Southern 22 South Clerk Street, EH8 9PR, 0131 662 8926, thesouthern.co.uk | Sun–Thu 10am–midnight; Fri/ Sat 10am–1am (food till 10pm). £12 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)
A hot spot for beer drinkers, the Southern houses a great range of beers, both bottled and on tap, and many are from Scottish breweries. The food menu is weighted towards burgers, with a cornucopia of topping combos to grace the beef, chicken, venison and haggis patties.
list.co.uk/festival | Edinburgh Festival Guide 2013 | THE LIST 143
EFG13 cityguideCR.indd 143
02/07/2013 22:43