ROUND THE WORLD
In association with
EDINBURGH Riverlife
Sabor Criollo
CARIBBEAN
SOUTH/CENTRAL AMERICAN
84 Dalry Road, West End, EH11 2AX See French
36 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge, EH4 1LY (Map 1A: B1, 9) 0131 332 3322, saborcriollo.co.uk | Sun–Thu 5–11pm; Fri/Sat 1–11pm. HW £12.95; Kids; T/A. £14.90 (lunch) / £14.90 (dinner)
Russian Passion RUSSIAN 5 Canonmills, Inverleith, EH3 5HA (Map 1B: A2, 7) 0131 556 9042, russianpassioncafe.co.uk | Mon/Tue & Thu–Sun noon–3.30pm, 6–10pm. Closed Wed. Veg; BYOB (no charge); T/A. £7 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)
Challenging preconceived notions of her native cuisine, Russian owner Maria has brought across fistfuls of traditional recipes and enough entertaining chat to span an enjoyable evening. Small cheery café and takeaway by day, the open kitchen and three corner tables support a bookingonly dinner service where pre-ordered choices keep the ingredients fresh and the preparation spot on. Influences stretch to include Georgian adjika sauce, which adds a spicy kick to popular Siberian pelmeni dumplings, with rye bread mopping up chicken satsivi’s crushed walnut sauce. Tomato-rich kharcho spicy soup arrives alongside a well-composed borsch and a multi-layered pickled herring salad. The extensive menu is pared down at lunchtime to bring a selection of wellflavoured hearty soups, together with a range of salads, cakes and freshly baked piroshky pasties. Dishes are invariably clean-tasting and healthy, with plenty of vegetarian choice, served in simple surroundings by a friendly and knowledgeable patron. Offering more than just a welcome alternative to the floppy lunchtime sandwich, this quiet Canonmills corner becomes a cosy and fun night out, with shot glasses supplied and recommendations given on the best vodkas to bring along. + Plenty of pride and Russian passion from the owner - No last-minute wavering with preordered choices
Busy and buzzy, Stockbridge’s own ‘taste of Creole’ – Sabor Criollo – is a cosy and colourful gem of a neighbourhood restaurant. It boasts red walls, trompe l’oeil murals, a thatched bar, South American flag bunting, a fake tree with a Virgin Mary statue in its hollow, and several wooden parrots. The mainstays are steaks and well-prepared Mexican classics like enchiladas, fajitas and quesadillas. Also on offer is a handful of Venezuelan dishes such as arepa rellena – corn cakes stuffed with a choice of fillings – or the very delicious pabellon margariteno, poached fish with peppers, coriander, parsley and garlic served with black beans, rice, fried plantain and a tangy avocado salad. There’s an ongoing deal of two courses for £15 and with a good selection of inexpensive cocktails to get the party started, you’ll very likely be dancing to the Latin beats by the end of the evening. + Delightfully kitsch décor - Underwhelming desserts
Shebeen SOUTH AFRICAN 8 Morrison Street, West End, EH3 8BJ (Map 4: C2, 36) 0131 629 0261, shebeenbar.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon– 10pm
‘Welkom to meat heaven’ declares a chalkboard at the entrance of this South African-themed restaurant. It’s no idle boast either – simply looking at the menu is enough to induce the meat sweats. Meatballs, ribs and giant steaks all vie for your attention, each prepared on the venue’s braai. Having upped sticks from Dock Place and decamped to Morrison Street, Shebeen has made the transition from bar to restaurant (although punters can still stop by for beers and snacks
imported from the Rainbow Nation). For those that used to frequent the Leith incarnation, the new premises offer an element of familiarity, with some of the seating, furniture and trinkets surviving the relocation. The setting however, is a little more rustic and homely now, swathed in earthy tones and tribal colours. And if the old location was popular with the ex-pat community, the new version is likely to be even more so, providing Saffers a taste of home, including own-recipe boerewors sausage, pap en vleis (lamb chops and maizemeal) and bunny chow – a Durban curry served in a hollowed-out loaf. [Not open in time for full review at time of going to press.]
Spoilt for Choice AFRICAN/CARIBBEAN 19 Marionville Road, EH7 5TY See Takeaway & Home Delivery
Tupiniquim BRAZILIAN The Green Police Box, Middle Meadow Walk, Lauriston Place, Old Town, EH1 9AU (Map 2A: C5, 36), tupiniquim.co.uk | Mon–Sat 10am–7pm. Closed Sun. Veg; T/A. £8 (lunch)
Swapping Sao Paulo for Middle Meadow Walk, husband and wife team Fernando and Gardenia bring bucket loads of Brazilian sunshine to their Tupiniquim police box. Every inch of space is put to good use with a vegetable plot nearby and herbs growing on the roof, underlying a commitment that stretches from fresh ingredients to responsible packaging. Sweet and savoury glutenfree crepes are the main event, all generously filled, well composed and packed full of flavour. Gently spiced chicken piri piri comes flecked with pecans, avocado and optional hot sauce alongside apples, pears and caramel combining in a decadently delicious dessert pancake. Saturday brings the earthy, rich black bean feijoada, laden with smoked pork rib and bacon and well supported by cassava and wilted greens.
Keep an eye out for the equally splendid coconut-infused fish stew appearing on summertime Sundays and the occasional transformation into cinebox with earlyevening soup and short films. Rest assured, if Dr Who was serving food this tasty from his police box, he’d have been far too busy to rid the world of Daleks. + Bags of passion and delicious fare from sunny-disposition owners - Good things come to those who wait
Turkish Kitchen TURKISH 120–122 Rose Street South Lane, New Town, EH2 4BB (Map 1A: B5, 53) 0131 226 2212, myturkishkitchen.co.uk | Mon–Thu 11am–2.30pm, 5–11.30pm [Takeaway until 1am]; Fri/Sat 11am– 11.30pm [Takeaway until 3am]. Closed Sun. HW £12; Kids; T/A. £6.50 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)
Tucked away on a lane off Rose Street, Turkish Kitchen is unassuming but full of heart. A garlic and herb aroma fills the air and whets the appetite – an appetite that’s much needed for the more than generous portions. Start with a selection of mezze, prepared while you wait. Thick, nutty hummus, grilled hellim cheese with a red cabbage salad, prawns baked with mushrooms and tomatoes, all mopped up with as much hot, oily pitta bread as you can eat. If you’re not full to bursting after this, there’s a wide selection of lamb, chicken, kebab and vegetarian mains to choose from. The hunkar begendi, chargrilled marinated lamb served with creamed aubergine and topped with roasted vegetables, is hearty and tasty, and paticlan sarma, aubergine baked with feta, tomato and herbs, is juicy and fragrant. All mains are served with a portion of brown rice and salad, and if they prove too much for you, chef Seyhmus Aslanalp will pop any leftovers into a doggy bag. Try, however, to save a little room for some baklava; it’s worth it. + Lovingly cooked and presented food - Uninspiring décor
Yeni TURKISH 73 Hanover Street, New Town, EH2 1EE (Map 1A: D4, 88) 0131 225 5755, yenirestaurant.com | Mon–Sat noon– 9.30pm. Closed Sun. Veg; Pre; HW £13.95. £9.90 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)
Pomegranate: Middle Eastern mezzes by the Playhouse Theatre at Hanam’s new sister restaurant
Yeni occupies premises which were formerly home to the popular Nargile and is run by the same husband and wife team, Ruya Iridag and Stuart Anderson. The menu still shows predominantly Turkish influences, but the format has been updated – as has the décor – with a new pale mint and cream paint job making the dining area appear lighter and more modern. Riding the trend of selecting smaller dishes to share, Yeni is now branded as a Meze Bar and they recommend choosing 3–4 small dishes each to share, although a selection of main course style dishes are also available in small or large portions. Hot food is freshly prepared and cooked to order, with felafels and crispy borek pastries both crunchily satisfying. Hummus with lamb and pinenuts is superbly smooth and creamy, though perhaps a little light on the lamb. There’s a refreshing fattoush salad of crisp pitta, radish, cucumber and dried mint, garlicky sucuk sausage and a nicely seasoned baba ghanoush. You can finish off with sorbets, homemade chocolate baclava or specially imported Turkish delight, along with Arabic coffee or fresh mint tea. + Ideal city centre meeting point - The décor refresh doesn’t seem to have reached the bathrooms The List Eating & Drinking Guide 81