The List Eating and Drinking Guide 2013/4 20th Edition

Page 159

MEXICAN

In association with

GLASGOW of soups, sides and drinks, including beer and Margaritas. Pinto proudly claims that nothing is frozen or microwaved, and the slow-cooked shredded pork and chargrilled steak or chicken certainly taste fresh, particularly when drenched in Pinto’s light, sharp salsas. A concept from the Di Maggio group, the bright décor and efÀcient system looks ripe for rolling out as a chain – in fact the website talks about ‘our stores’ in the plural, though to date there’s only the one. It’s busy enough, so we may see more soon. + Genuinely fresh, tasty food - Possibly just too fast – unless you’re on your way somewhere

Taco Mazama Mexican Kitchen 263 Byres Road, West End, G12 8TL (Map 9A: C1, 46) 0141 337 3399, tacomazama.co.uk | Mon–Wed 11am– 10pm; Thu 11am–11pm; Fri 11am–1am; Sat noon–midnight, Sun noon–10pm. Veg; T/A; D. £8 (lunch) / £8 (dinner)

According to its website, Taco Mazama is ‘Glasgow’s Àrst Californian style burrito bar and taqueria’, and there’s a distinct street-food feel to the burritos, quesadillas, tacos and salads, all assembled before your eyes as they would be on a mobile kitchen truck. Thankfully – given Glasgow’s weather – the Byres Road branch has room for about 20 to sit down and eat inside, while RenÀeld Street is mainly takeaway (with limited room to perch). The third branch in just two years has recently opened in Strathclyde Union (for Uni staff and students), suggesting the format is working. It’s fast food alright, but fresh, light and relatively healthy. Fillings include a deliciously smoky shredded barbecue beef, and there’s a decent vegetarian offering including a hearty aubergine and mushroom chilli. At under six pounds for a generous combination of meat, rice, beans, cheese, salad and salsa all wrapped up in a burrito, it compares well in quality and value with other fast-food options – and for most Glaswegians, it’s a welcome change from the ordinary. + Fresh, tasty fast food - No licence, so no beer with your burrito See also Takeaway & Home Delivery

NORTH AMERICAN As their popularity has grown in the last couple of years, North American restaurants in Glasgow have become about so much more than a few unusual burger toppings and a Stars and Stripes flag on the menu. For those who believe a USA theme means glorified fast food, Glasgow is now capable of proving these doubters wrong with a handful of venues who have found inspiration in the Creole cooking of the Deep South, to bring tasty, unpretentious soul food to the city. With many of the dishes offered ideal for sharing, the possibility of ‘going American’ on a night out with friends is now a more serious option than ever before. Reviewer: Kevin Scott

Ad Lib 111 Hope Street, City Centre, G2 6LL (Map 6: D4, 81) 0141 248 6645, adlibglasgow.com | Mon–Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–2am; Sun noon–9.30pm. [Bar open: Sun–Wed noon–11pm; Thu noon–midnight; Fri/Sat noon–3am.] HW £14.95. £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Crafting the perfect burger is about more than simply grilling the patty properly; all elements need to combine to create something more than the sum of their parts. This is something Ad Lib knows well. Its burgers are a revelation, whether beef, lamb, chicken or specials like ox tongue. But that’s not the only reason to visit this Hope Street venue. Its American theme is literally plastered over the walls with a sprawling New York streetscape dominating one side of the long bar that leads through to a homely restaurant. The menu is typical US and Tex-Mex but the imaginative and creative specials board gives the chef a chance to explore

this world with a Scottish twist, while a decent beer selection helps wash down a meal and welcoming staff provide the sort of service for which North American restaurants are renowned. The recent addition of a late night Soul Kitchen, which sees DJs and food on offer until 2.30am on weekends adds another dimension to a bar that has always been more than the sum of its parts. + Unbeatable burgers - Toilets need an upgrade

Ad Lib 33 Ingram Street, Merchant City, G1 1HA (Map 7: D2, 15) 0141 552 5736, adlibglasgow.com | Mon–Sun noon– 10pm. [Bar open: Sun–Wed noon–11pm; Thu–Sat noon–midnight.] HW £14.50; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The former Àre station that is home to the Merchant City branch of this enduringly popular American restaurant is much larger than its ‘big’ brother on Hope Street, but doesn’t quite live up to its siblings achievements. The bulk of the menu is the same, but with a heavier focus on deals with lunchtime and early evening offers luring in ofÀce workers and couples – including a range of pastas, which doesn’t fully Àt the American model. The specials are more considered, with Scottish food from sea and Àeld. With Áames occasionally leaping from the open kitchen, the burgers are an easy sell, and there’s no doubting the quality, while various toppings allow for customisation with numerous meats, cheeses and sauces. Portions are generous but, whether you think you’ve got room or not, a side of jalapeño cheese cornbread is a must. Concentrating solely on the core cuisine would perhaps help better distinguish Ad Lib from the many bars, bistros and Italians on its doorstep. + Mouthwatering jalapeño cheese cornbread - Hope Street brethren is slicker

4 HITLIST NORTH AMERICAN

4 Ab Lib (Hope Street) For an authentic NYC experience offering a time-tested range of outstanding burgers along with a collection of Scottish-tinged American specials, Ad Lib continues to be a city favourite. 4 St Louis Café Bar With a warm welcome that makes you feel right at home, St Louis manages to offer both an exceptional American-themed daytime and evening menu with a breakfast range that attracts more than just locals. £11.50 (dinner)

Taking inspiration from New Orleans’ ‘Holy Trinity’ Cajun cooking, this American-themed venue has a combined focus on soul food, music and cocktails. Divided bar/lounge style, with one area focused on food the other on drinks, with décor that may feel somewhat inauthentic but the food most certainly does not. With no menus, customers scan the carefully positioned blackboards to view what’s on offer. Gumbo is densely packed with huge chunks of meat and a delicate yet spicy stock, while burgers

Bar Gumbo 71–77 Byres Road, West End, G11 5HN (Map 9A: B3, 24) 0141 334 7132 | Mon– Sun 11am–9.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 11am–midnight.] HW £13.95; Kids; T/A; D. £11.50 (lunch) /

TIPList FOR BURGERS • Bar 91 Merchant City champions 110 • Buddy’s BBQ & Burgers Southside soul food 166 • Café Hula Old-school and arty 129 • Cocktail & Burger Brioche badboys

115

• The Grill Room at the Square Elegance done up in a bun 164 • Ketchup Studentfriendly sliders

158

• Lebowskis Fit for the dude

116

• Moskito Brilliant basement burgers

117

• Mono Top veggies

170

• The New York Kitchen Newbie nourishment 158 • Nice n Sleazy Best in town? 118 Manhattan’s Bar and Diner (page 158): a new US-themed sports bar and restaurant in the Southside The List Eating & Drinking Guide 157


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