ITALIAN
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GLASGOW almonds. A fresh and uncluttered interior beÀts Lamora’s style, which is clear in its purpose and does justice to the highlights of Italian cuisine. + Creativity in daily specials - Lack of wines by the glass
La Lanterna
TABLE Talk MARIO GIZZI DI MAGGIO’S GROUP When I first launched Di Maggio’s with my uncle Joe Conetta in 1983, the landscape was very different. Nowadays, it’s not uncommon to eat out twice a week instead of twice a year, but back then going out for a meal was an occasion. I remember, as a kid, my mum dressing me up in my Sunday best before we headed out to eat. Restaurants were, on the whole, stuffy places and there was a lot of food snobbery. Waiters would look down their noses at you and could make you feel uncomfortable if things were unfamiliar (like some people still do with wine). Our aim was to make dining out a more casual experience, more accessible, especially for families. We did things differently. Nobody opened on a Sunday, nobody opened all day. We offered a kids menu, which was almost unheard of. A big difference is that these days there is much more competition. People are also better travelled and aware of the nuances of different cuisines, so the bar has been raised accordingly. They’ve also got a keener eye for a bargain. As a result, margins are tighter and if you take your eye off the ball, it could spell disaster. Not many businesses survive for 30 years, though, particularly in this industry, so we’re clearly doing something right. Part of that success is down to the loyal following we’ve worked hard to establish. We’ve watched our customers grow and develop, just like us. In some cases, we’re now welcoming the grandkids of those children we served back in the early days, and I take pride that they continue to choose to dine with us. Q Mario Gizzi is co-owner of the Di Maggio’s group (see page 152), which also includes the Café Andaluz (see page 168), Barolo Grill (see page 150) and Amarone (see page 150) brands. dimaggios.co.uk
154 The List Eating & Drinking Guide
35 Hope Street, City Centre, G2 6AE (Map 6: D5, 109) 0141 221 9160, lalanterna-glasgow.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sat noon– 11pm. Closed Sun. Pre; HW £14.95; Kids. £10.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)
If its location at the tail-end of Hope Street is a little dingy, stepping inside La Lanterna provides a welcome step back into an almost forgotten age of catering. In a scene that is predisposed to bringing a contemporary or modern twist to classic dishes to remain fashionable, La Lanterna’s understated commitment to tradition is a refreshing change. Since opening in 1970, the restaurant has remained in the same family, with Christopher Martinolli and Luca Conreno now carrying on its lineage. There is a clear conÀdence in this heritage, with suited waiters, carafes of wine and snippets of Italian shared between staff giving La Lanterna a recognisable identity. The menu is vast and throws up few unknowns. Specials are predominantly seafoodbased and illustrate the kitchen’s more creative side, with fresh, seared scallops encircling a lightly dressed king prawn salad, for instance. There is an impressive array of homemade pasta, with wild boar ravioli, topped with trufÁe, rosemary and butter, a clear stand-out. + Good regional specialties - Chairs not too comfy
Mediterraneo 159 Ingram Street, Merchant City, G1 1DW (Map 7: B2, 6) 0141 552 0460, medglasgow.com | Mon–Sun noon–10.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–1am.] Veg; Pre; HW £15.95; Kids; Wh. £7.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)
A smart, light, bright dining room with a stylish champagne bar attached, the place has an open kitchen where the chefs can be seen preparing dishes from the large menu. Deep-fried calamari are tasty and tender as are the prawns in the same characteristically light batter. The bean and lemon mayo salad accompanying is an odd addition however. Of the mains, the pastas and pizzas are probably the safest bets. Both are substantial and, while not out of the ordinary, are not half bad. The orecchiette mimosa deserves a mention, tasty and large, the quality and quantity of crumbled Italian sausage and pan-fried aubergine makes this a hearty dish. For afters, the focaccia coated in chocolate hazelnut spread will undoubtedly sort you out. Not for the faint hearted, this mega pizza surely goes down well with sweet-toothed locals. If you are not from around here, don’t worry, the pizza’s not deep fried. + A stylish space - No big surprises on the menu
O Sole Mio 34–36 Bath Street, City Centre, G2 1HG (Map 6: E3, 65) 0141 331 1397, osolemioglasgow.com | Sun–Wed 11am–10pm; Thu–Sat 11am –10.30pm. Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; T/A. £8.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)
Despite its position adjacent to one of Glasgow’s busiest thoroughfares, O Sole Mio provides far more than a pit-stop for hungry shoppers. The restaurant lays claim to introducing the Àrst real wood-
Àred pizza oven to Scotland, and is somewhat of a sanctuary for aÀcionados with a variety of authentic, thin-based pizzas on offer. As a consequence, the kitchen demonstrates a keen mastery over a secretly guarded dough recipe, with a light, rosemary-coated focaccia not to be missed. A generous selection of pastas, Àsh and meat dishes supplement mains, with spaghetti vongole – clams cooked with parsley and chilli – a notable standout, although the black ink pasta dish could pack a bit more Áavour. House speciality of grilled wild boar has a great depth of Áavour having been marinated in red wine, and is offset perfectly with a smooth parmesan polenta. Desserts require a revamp, with a cannoli arriving all too quickly and tasting as though it had spent too long in the fridge. + Stylish, modern setting - Menu changes little over seasons
4 Panevino 1075 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8LZ (Map 9B: D2, 34) 0141 221 1136, panevino.co.uk | Sun–Thu 11am–10pm; Fri 9am– midnight; Sat 11am–midnight. Pre; HW £15; Kids; Wh. £7.50 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)
Enter the plate-glass portal of Panevino and the Àrst thing you notice is the bar. It dominates the room, festooned with hanging cured meats and high shelves with cheeses and bread. At the back is a nitrogen cooler for keeping wine fresh – Panevino pride themselves on selling Àne Italian wines by the glass and hold wine tastings every couple of weeks. Diners are encouraged to eat at the bar, dropping in for a few slices of bresaola, a bite of Bastardo del Grappa cheese and a glass of Amaretto. The menu offers a variety of small plates and a fully itemised antipasti menu for diners to pick and choose from. But there is a full restaurant meal experience available for those who wish it. Tables are tucked around the room and cosy mezzanine. Main courses include pasta and risotto, scallops in anchovy butter and ‘salsiccia e fagioli’, beans and spicy sausage. With a weekend brunch menu and an in-and-out menu starting from £5 for course, Panevino is a Àne addition to Finnieston’s culinary amenities. + Antipasti prepared to order - Slim pickings for veggies
Papa Tony’s 332 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3HQ (Map 6: C2, 24) 0141 332 3800, papatonys.co.uk | Mon–Thu & Sun noon–10.45pm; Fri/Sat noon–11.30pm. Veg; Pre; Kids; Wh; T/A. £5.99 (set lunch) / £17.50 (dinner)
On the face of it not much has changed since Paperino’s oldest branch in town became Papa Tony’s. The restaurant looks much the same, albeit with a tidy-up and slick rebrand, with tables at the front, cosy booths further back and a nice rustic vibe from wood and tiles. It also attracts the same mix of suits, shoppers, families and tourists. The difference is that the Paperinoesque casual Italian menu, dominated by pizza and pasta, is now completely halal – a surprising Àrst for a city packed with Italian and Indian restaurants, and an obvious route for Papa Tony’s due to sisterly ties to Cafe India. There’s a tendency to drizzle dishes in a balsamic dressing, whether it be the mozzarella sticks with spicy tomato dip, the decent bruschetta, or a chargrilled chicken salad. Good-value lunch and pre-theatre deals keep the restaurant busy all day, with much the same crowd who patronised the previous place. + Nice booths - Uninspiring menu
Paperino’s • 78 St Vincent Street, City Centre, G2 5UB (Map 6: E4, 91) 0141 248 7878, paperinos.co.uk | Mon–Wed noon–3pm, 5–10.50pm; Thu–Sun noon–10.50pm. Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £8.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner) • 227 Byres Road, Glasgow, West End, G12 8UD (Map 9A: C2, 40) 0141 334 3811, paperinos.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10.45pm. Veg; Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £9.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)
Economic downturn? Not round at Paperino’s it isn’t. It’s been busy times for the restaurant group recently with a general upscaling of the mini-brand. They jettisoned the original venue on Sauchiehall Street – arguably their most personable with its cosy vibe, rustic wood and tiles – and blinged up the Byres Road branch with a prosecco bar positioned pathside so drinkers can get an eyeful of busy Byres Road while having a mouthful of Àzz. Things aren’t quite so dramatic at the City Centre branch which was an impressive and rather swanky ediÀce to start with. Food remains much the same – not joining in the general poshing up of things. A fairly dependable Italian offering of pizzas and pastas tend to keep people coming back for more, particularly in groups and families, to whom Paperino’s is uncommonly considerate. + Dependable food - No more Sauchiehall Street branch
4 La Parmigiana 447 Great Western Road, West End, G12 8HH (Map 9A: F2, 71) 0141 334 0686, laparmigiana.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon– 2.30pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sun 12.30–6pm. Pre; HW £19.40; Kids. £16.20 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)
This has been in the same family since opening in 1978, and whilst not the cheapest restaurant in town it’s one of the best. When the fresh butter, not portions wrapped in foil, and great Italian bread with delicious olives arrive on the table, it’s the Àrst clue you’ll get to the class of food you’re about to experience here. Quality in everything they do is very much in evidence. The MacDuff Scottish beef, for example, is served in a number of ways. To start, the carpaccio or raw Àllet, with rocket and parmesan is light, moist and allows the Áavour of the meat to shine. If you were to judge an Italian restaurant on its tomato sugo then you’d give the Parmy 10 out of 10 for the sauce that envelopes the homemade tagliolini pasta with prawns and courgettes. For a rich hearty main the Àllet of venison served on a porcini and sausage ragu packs a knockout punch. Chocolate fondant to Ànish is perfectly cooked, the chocolate sauce oozing from the centre of the light sponge. + The food - Having to leave
Pesto 57–61 St Vincent St, City Centre, G2 5TS (Map 6: E4, 93) 0141 204 0979, pestorestaurants.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10.30pm. Veg; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £7.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)
Italian tapas is the order of the day in this large airy restaurant. Given it’s part of a chain, it doesn’t feel like the cooking is terribly bespoke. It’s a busy place, though, with many in for a drink and just a couple of dishes rather than a full meal. The appeal here is the Áexibility available and the relaxed atmosphere. The chicken skewers are a little on the dry side as is the spicy Italian sausage, peppers and new potatoes. Calamari fritti are good – the squid not over cooked and served, as you’d expect, with garlic