FISH
list.co.uk
GLASGOW
TABLE Talk COLIN CLYDESDALE UBIQUITOUS CHIP The List’s Eating & Drinking Guide can’t be 20 years old because that would make me 45! Thinking back, we appear to be a serial one-trick pony. We’ve never had a concept; we’ve always just made it up as we went along and I know this was the same for my dad Ronnie. A core idea of quality Scottish food cooked with love and integrity. The quality of eateries in Glasgow has never been higher; we are spoiled for choice in a way that has never happened in the past. As quality across the board has risen, so have customers’ expectations. People are better informed about food these days. We have a culture of eating out as a right, not a celebratory treat. People have travelled and sampled far more exotic cuisines these days. Twenty years ago when I asked where the kiwis were at the Glasgow market, the stallholder thought I was asking what they were: ‘Wee green furry hings!’ was the reply. Forty years ago, dad had to specially import exotics. One vegetable that caused serious consternation at the market was the hugely specialised courgette. Nowadays folk will happily discuss galangal variants, fresh turmeric over dried and so on. We’ve had heated debates online about how a bowl of Vietnamese noodle broth should be made. As restaurants evolve, staying ahead of the game gets more difficult. Our original food ethos was so ‘on the money’ that it’s still totally apt today, and holds us in good stead for the future. Like any business, running restaurants has its ups and downs, but we Glaswegians are on a hugely exciting culinary journey. Who knows what the next 20 years will bring? Q Colin Clydesdale is the owner of Ubiquitous Chip (see page 168), Stravaigin (see pages 126, 168) and the Hanoi Bike Shop (see page 141). ubiquitouschip.co.uk
144 The List Eating & Drinking Guide
what one pays for. Dishes pair quality ingredients with classic touches: Àlo pastry surrounding remarkably sweet langoustines that taste like they were swimming in Dublin Bay that morning, or better still, a lemon sole served on the bone and cooked meunière: swathes of clariÀed butter, skilfully browned and nutty without detracting from the delicacy of the Àsh. Not cheap, but not easily done either, and that know-how’s another thing you pay for. So, too, service, from staff that are charming and at ease with Rogano’s history, its repute. They add to the occasion also. It’s unashamedly old-fashioned and maybe a tad safe, but its credentials as a ‘destination’ restaurant remain strong. And alongside the lobster and oysters, there are dishes of rabbit, venison, steak – allowing those who don’t appreciate the oceans’ produce to enjoy everything else Rogano brings to the table. + Design and one-of-a-kind experience - Uninspiring vegetable sides
Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery 652 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8UF (Map 9B: G3, off) 0141 221 8188, twofatladiesrestaurant.com | Mon– Sat noon–3pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sun noon–9pm. Pre/Post; HW £17.85; Kids. £16.50 (set lunch) / £29 (dinner)
The Buttery is the only ‘destination’ restaurant in Glasgow that actually feels like a quest to get to, hidden in noman’s land near the M8. Hushed tones, stained glass, ornaments everywhere – it’s full of character, as well as Àne food (and not just Àsh). Combinations are tried, trusted and skilfully made: an elegant risotto starter with gamey chicken meat packs in bags of citrus and cream Áavours while remaining delicate; Gressingham duck is juicy and pink, paired with poached plums. This is the old-fashioned swathe. But since taking over in 2007, Two Fat Ladies have gradually introduced the relaxed modernity of their other restaurants. And they know their seafood. Scallops are nicely Ànished with a hint of Asian soy and sesame, while the spike of sweet ginger cream punctuating each mouthful of king prawns is a brilliant touch. Afterwards, a dessert of marmalade ice-cream with a pot of gooey, rich
KEY Veg = 25% of main courses are vegetarian. Pre = Pre-theatre menu. Post = Post-theatre menu. BYOB = Bring your own bottle (corkage charge in brackets). HW = House wine cost per bottle. Kids = Children’s portions served and other facilities available. Wh = Wheelchair access and disabled toilet. T/A = Takeaway food. D = Delivery. Price in bold = Average cost of a two-course evening meal for one. The price of a set lunch is shown; otherwise we show the average cost of a two-course lunch for one. For full explanations see page 4.
and bitter fondant is like the ultimate Terry’s chocolate orange. There’s also the opportunity to see these delights being prepared at the ‘chef’s table’ in the kitchen. It’s a well turned-out operation all round. + An unpretentious way to experience formal dining - Location location location
4 Two Fat Ladies in the City 118a Blythswood Street, City Centre, G2 4EG (Map 6: C3, 47) 0141 847 0088, twofatladiesrestaurant.com | Mon–Thu noon–3pm, 5.30–10pm; Fri/Sat noon– 3pm, 5.30–11pm; Sun 1–9pm. Pre/Post; HW £17.95; Wh. £16 (set lunch) / £28 (dinner)
It’s nice to see roast salmon on a Glasgow menu, and even nicer to have thoroughly crispened, blackened skin that gives way to robust Áesh with heaps of Áavour. It’s typical of the Two Fat Ladies restaurants, where produce is high quality and cooking both skilled and sensible. That salmon comes atop a tomato risotto, just crunchy enough and with the faintest edge of fennel. Dishes are well-balanced. A starter of mackerel terrine uses apples and lemon juice to offset (not kill) the strength of the Àsh, rounded off with some Waldorf-esque walnuts, while the daily changing platter allows three different catches to be sampled – expect clutter-free presentation of baked, fried and/or poached delights from Scotland’s waters, and delicate garnish that won’t interfere. If spreads are your thing, there’s also one for dessert: all four à la carte options, where a jaw-narrowingly sharp citrus tart stands out. This site sits in the Ànancial district so it’s popular for lunch – but it’s even more appealing in the evening, when the light emanating hints at the comeliness within. + Concise menu makes it easier to choose - Uninspiring bowl of veg and potatoes with everything
Two Fat Ladies 88 Dumbarton Road, West End, G11 6NX (Map 9A: B3, 19) 0141 339 1944, twofatladiesrestaurant.com | Mon–Sat noon–3pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sun 1–9pm. Pre/Post; HW £17.95; Kids. £14.50 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)
The original Two Fat Ladies balances restaurant details with less formal, bistroesque qualities. The dark interior with its ornate golden border looks towards the former; an open plan kitchen and chatty ambience nudge things the other way – a classy meal venue that doesn’t require one’s Sunday best. The menu displays a similar duality. There are simple dishes like baked Cajun sardines, served whole, a dry and grizzly dusting of heat against an aioli of glossy sharpness. Then there’s scallop, black pudding and bacon salad – a well-worn combination (at the top-end of the price scale here), with deft touches of delicately smoky saffron butter and a sweet scattering of garden peas pulling everything together and elevating it from equivalents elsewhere. Ling – cod’s skinny brother – comes beside a cumin-loaded dhal with rice and raita. Dishes like this, or gravadlax with subtle curing from lime (citrus) and gin (tart), are typical of the eatery’s light and modern style. Not too Àlling – so your meal at No. 88 need not leave you feeling as rotund as the Two Fat Ladies on the doorsign. + Small, sensible and seasonally changing menu - The scary painting on the wall
Urban Bar & Brasserie 23–25 St Vincent Place, City Centre, G1 2DT See Bistros & Brasseries
FRENCH Glasgow surprisingly has just five French restaurants, but each of them takes a different approach to representing the best in Gallic goodness, proving the rich diversity of one of the world’s most famous and celebrated national cuisines. Sure, you’ll find snails, foie gras and, yes, frogs’ legs in here somewhere. But French food is essentially about elemental ingredients elegantly done: meat, fish, game and vegetables all cooked with real panache and flavour. Scotland, with its rugged, bountiful natural larder, is a comfortable home-fromhome for the signature dishes of its historic Auld Ally, prepared in styles – from homely to haute – to suit all budgets and tastes. The wine isn’t half bad either. Reviewer: Malcolm Jack
4 Le Bistro Beaumartin 161 Hope Street, City Centre, G2 2UQ (Map 6: D4, 77) 0141 226 4442, lebistrobeaumartin.co.uk | Mon–Sat 11am–9.30pm. Closed Sun. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–11pm. Closed Sun.] Pre; HW £16; Kids; Wh. £12.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)
Glasgow’s newest French restaurant celebrated its Àrst anniversary in March 2013, and has already established itself as a Àrm favourite with many. Run by Frenchman Richard Dupupet, veteran of several Paris bistros, together with head chef Andrew Stott, le Bistro Beaumartin is an independent with real strength of personality that prides itself on marrying the spoils of Scotland’s natural larder to authentic Gallic cooking techniques. There are plenty of cosy quirks in the mismatched chairs, black-and-white photos on the walls and wood-burning stove crackling in the corner, although the long, high-ceilinged space is a little awkward to fully convey the stylish-yet-homely feel. Salads, in starter and main portions, include an exquisite endive and roquefort combination with diced ham, cherry tomatoes and a mustard vinaigrette. The conÀt duck is served as a kind of pie, with heavily seasoned shreds of off-the-bone bird nestling beneath a Áuffy layer of herb crushed potatoes. You won’t taste many better desserts than their dark chocolate and cherry tartlet, its rich textures complemented by a drizzle of milky crème anglaise. With dishes that good, this place deserves to become an institution. + Intimate welcome and service - Oversized premises
La Bonne Auberge 161 West Nile Street, City Centre, G1 2RL (Map 6: F2, 33) 0141 352 8310, labonneauberge.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–2.15pm, 5–10pm; Fri/Sat noon– 2.15pm, 5–10.15pm; Sun 12.30–2.15pm, 5–9.15pm. Pre/Post; HW £17.50; Kids; Wh. £16.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)
Considerably nicer than a restaurant housed in the foyer of a middling chain hotel has any right to be, La Bonne Auberge has experienced a facelift in the last year, with previously fussy décor disposed of for a more contemporaryfeeling retro-modern aesthetic of red and blue striped Àtted sofas and smart red-backed cocktail lounge-style chairs. But it remains much the same operation – dependable and well-serviced, the kind of place well suited to tourists or Sunday