ITALIAN
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Edinburgh Jamie’s Italian
Assembly Rooms, 54 George Street, City Centre, EH2 2LR (Map 1: D5, 72) jamiesitalian.com | Mon–Sat noon–11pm, Sun noon–10.30pm. HW £15.35; Kids; Wh. £19 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)
Edinburgh Council faced criticism for introducing commercial tenants after spending £9 million refurbishing the Assembly Rooms, but no-one could dispute this A-listed edifice was criminally under-used. And given that Edinburgh’s relationship with prestige dining chains is still in its relative infancy, Jamie’s Italian is an intriguing addendum to the city’s dining culture. Opening in July 2012, just in time for the festival, it will occupy the groundfloor ‘Supper Room’ with seating for around 200 and another 50 able to dine al fresco. In terms of décor, they weren’t divulging much when we went to print, but previous projects – like the former GPO building on Glasgow’s George Square – suggest a stylish, but sympathetic, refit. Don’t anticipate spotting Jamie at the hotplate (he’s a rather busy man), but do expect all the Oliver ‘brand’ hallmarks – quality ingredients, trendy accessories and funky presentation. Dishes to look out for include antipasti sharing planks laden with cured meats and angel spaghetti with squid ink and scallops. Unlike the Glasgow site, they will be taking bookings from the get-go, but count on a long wait for a table otherwise. [Not yet open at time of going to press.]
Librizzi
69 North Castle Street, New Town, EH2 3LJ (Map 1: B5, 62) 0131 226 1155, librizzi. co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–2pm, 5.30–11pm. Closed Sun. LC; HW £14.90; Kids. £12.50 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)
Multi award-winning southern Italian cuisine by head chef Rosario Sartore
On the corner of Queen Street and North Castle Street, a mere stone’s throw from the shrill excesses of George Street’s style bars, Librizzi’s offers something that’s rare to find in the area: an old school Italian. Bow-tied waiters move between the respectfully distanced tables in the high-ceilinged main room, which is big enough to cater to large groups, the smaller adjoining area for select gatherings and an alcove for the more romantically inclined. Fish is owner Filippo Librizzi’s first love, and you could certainly do a lot worse than start with the smoked swordfish, which is as rich in the pleasant charcoal reek of bonfire as it is delicate in texture, the only downside being an over-generous hand with a garnish of red peppercorns. A main course of tuna steak in a piquant sauce is a refreshing blast of sweet and sharp, but the lamb cutlets win by a margin – deliciously chargrilled but tender within, and served with bountiful quantities of garlic and rosemary. Of the desserts, the pear poached in red wine and spices is a warming finish. + A deservedly popular Table D’Hote menu - Profiteroles seem to have come direct from the freezer
✱ Locanda de Gusti
7–11 East London Street, New Town, EH7 4BN (Map 1: F3, 122) 0131 558 9581, locandadegusti.com | Tue–Fri noon– 2.30pm, 5–10.30pm; Sat noon–11pm. Closed Sun/Mon in winter. Jul: closed first two weeks. Pre; HW £16.95; Kids; Wh. £12.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)
The restaurant formerly known as Bella Mbriana continues to choose the road less travelled by and offer what they describe as a genuine Italian experience as opposed to the more anglicised fare available elsewhere. Tucked around the corner from Broughton Street, it’s ideally placed to capitalise on the area’s foodie reputation and the growing appetite for authentic, locally sourced food. Owners Maria and Rosario Sartore avoid what they call the British-Italian cliches of lasagne and garlic bread. Instead, the menu is a tempting mix of the known and the new, offering delicate starters such as shallow-fried courgette flowers with a honey and chilli dip, as well as a more substantial Provolone fondue with a chilli honey bruschetta. The focus of the mains is firmly on fish, with even a fusion of paccheri pasta, olive oil, garlic, kale and ricotta receiving a dressing of anchovy oil. If you fancy something more overtly marine, the Scialatielle pasta with courgettes, cannellini beans and clams is a rich and creamy, if slightly gritty, alternative. Rich the mains may be, but don’t let that stop you trying the homemade panna cotta for dessert. + Adventurous and genuinely exciting menu - Not the place to go for pasta carbonara
Mamma’s American Pizza Company
30 Grassmarket, Old Town, EH1 2JU See North American
✱ Nonna’s Kitchen
7-11 East London Street, Edinburgh EH7 4BN Tel: 0131 558 9581 www.locandadegusti.com
45 Morningside Road, Southside, EH10 4AZ (Map 3: A5, off) 0131 466 6767, nonnas-kitchen.co.uk | Tue–Sun 10am– 2.45pm, 5pm–10pm. Closed Mon. Pre; HW £15.30; Kids; Wh. £12.50 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)
With a warm welcome from the Stornaiuolo family, this corner venue in Morningside is everything anyone could want in a neighbourhood restaurant. One thing certain is that you could never get bored of the menu – despite a short à la carte selection, the list of daily specials is so long you’ll have trouble remembering them as they’re read out. Fish and seafood dominate so expect revived classics such as tender lemon sole goujons with
home-made tartare sauce, or scallops the size of gobstoppers paired with black pudding. Clam linguine is exemplary, and the chef will accommodate to taste by adding fresh chilli. Pizzas from the main menu are enormous, with a doughier Neapolitan rather than crispy Romanstyle base. Topping combinations are old favourites, such as Parma ham with rocket and parmesan, or artichoke, ham and egg on their eponymous version. Desserts are a mixture of family-friendly and sophisticated – the ‘Coppa Cioccolato’ is their take on an ice cream sundae, and the pannacotta is perfectly wobbly, with fresh raspberries complementing the creaminess. Listen to stories of the ‘nonnas’ (grandmothers) that inspired this cooking and you’ll soon feel part of the family. + Exciting daily specials from a family kitchen - Pizzas not as exciting as the rest of the menu
Origano
277 Leith Walk, Leith, EH6 8PD (Map 1: H2, off) 0131 554 6539, origano-leith.co.uk | Mon–Thu 5–10pm; Fri 12.30–2.30pm, 5–10.30pm; Sat 12.30–10.30pm; Sun 1–10pm. Veg; BYOB (£3; Mon/Tue only); HW £12.50; Kids; T/A; D. £12.50 (lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)
Leith Walk is rich with Italian restaurants vying for a share of the passing custom in this busy part of town, so it was a brave move of Simon Fletcher and Dominik Blicharski to open Origano on a shoestring in mid-2011. The pair are aiming to bring a New York-style neighbourhood pizzeria into the mix and have got off to a very good start. The tiny venue looks the part with simple but modern décor, basic wooden furniture and blackboards listing the antipasto options. Beware of generous portions to start, with the large antipasto sharing platter including a selection of four meats, olives, ciabatta, garlic and pesto dips. Sharing is also the name of the game when it comes to the pizzas, which go up to 16-inch. If you like your pizza thin and crispy, a tasty Milano complete with salami, pepperoni, pancetta, garlic and parsley will hit the spot. For those not interested in pizza, there’s only a limited choice of pasta, including an rather oily arrabbiata. Origano concludes with aplomb, however, with a couple of really good home-made desserts, particularly a fantastically creamy and fluffy tiramisu. Word is getting out about this friendly, cosy, great-value neighbourhood eatery, ensuring it has every chance of success. + Great value in a cosy, convivial atmosphere - Uninspiring pasta dishes prove disappointing
Papoli
244a Morrison Street, West End, EH3 8DT See Round the World
Ristorante Ferrari
1 Merchiston Place, Bruntsfield, Southside, EH10 4NP (Map 3: A4, 29) 0131 622 0108, ristoranteferrari.co.uk | Wed– Sun noon–3pm; 5–11pm. Closed Mon/Tue. Veg; Pre; HW £no house wine; Kids; Wh. £10 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)
What was once the Bruntsfield Post Office has now been transformed into an airy oasis of tea lights and exposed stonework, chocolate brown walls and cream tablecloths. A correspondingly modern yet classic menu accompanies a stunning wine list, offering a generous number of wines by the glass. Father and daughter team Roberta and Annalisa are incredibly proud of their restaurant, and this shines through in the simplest of dishes. A starter of bruschetta is a real burst of sunshine: crisp and chewy, with a punchy, garlicky tang and oodles of tomato and basil. An
alternative of walnut tagliatelli with ricotta di bufala is mild, but far from anonymously so. It’s a generous portion – rich and satisfying, but surprisingly light. A main of risotto with hazelnut, pear and duck foie gras is well worth waiting for: welljudged, with the fruit just taking the edge off the richness of the dish. Similarly, a tagliatelli with ragu sings of simple, quality ingredients. Dessert is a little disappointing, and while a chocolate cake with cinnamon cream is fine, it seems a little anonymous after the care taken with the preceding courses. + A neighbourhood restaurant with gourmet ambitions - Not as much care has gone into the dessert selection
Santo’s Bistro
23 Canning Street, West End, EH3 8EG (Map 4: C3, 23) 0131 228 6298, santosbistro.com | Mon–Fri 7.30am–4pm. Closed Sat/Sun. Veg; HW £11.95; Kids; T/A; D. £8.50 (lunch)
In the context of the starkly oppressive high-rise offices off Lothian Road, this family-run café is a welcome retreat in which to linger over comforting daily specials or grab lunch to go. With its older sister Locanda De Gusti – one of Edinburgh’s best Italian restaurants – providing some of the food, mains are inevitably reheated to order, but are classier than standard café fare. Expect dishes such as chicken breast with sage and a buttery lemon sauce, or an extremely cheesy parmigiana, slow-cooked with layers of silky aubergine. Other offerings include pizzas, simple salads and baked potatoes. One thing certain is the enthusiasm for Italian home cooking – staff will by no means rush over the details of ingredients, preparation and origins of any dish, urging you to taste something for your own good. There is a simple selection of bought-in sweet treats in the form of cakes and tray bakes such as caramel shortcake to go with coffees, or if time allows, a glass of wine or beer. + A genuine enthusiasm for introducing you to the best of Italian comfort food - Desserts don’t match up to quality of the mains
Sprio
37/39 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge, EH3 5AH See Cafés
Strada
15 Castle Street, New Town, EH2 3AH (Map 1: C6, 58) 0131 225 2213, strada. co.uk | Mon–Sat 11.30am–11pm; Sun 11.30am–10.30pm. Veg; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)
Strada is the most upmarket in the range of Tragus Group restaurant chains which includes Bella Italia and Café Rouge. Situated in among the high street stores at the Princes Street end of Castle Street, it’s not an obvious target for an evening meal. Inside, however, it is stylish, clean and elegant with polished dark wood floors, grey walls and a red accent around a high-stool framed bar with a hint of 1950s American drug store about it. Differentiating itself from its sister chains, everything at Strada is made from scratch with fresh ingredients such as seafood, delivered daily. Thin and crispy garlic and rosemary pizza bread can be enjoyed while leaving room for big, soft king prawns well cooked in strong garlic, white wine and lemon or perhaps a fresh, tasty mozzarella with plum tomatoes delicately dressed with fresh basil and olive oil. Mains include a good choice of Italian staples, although a risotto verdure with a range of green veg including asparagus was bit on the salty side. Paper thin pizzas
78 The List Eating & Drinking Guide
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17/04/2012 23:37