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Jewish Journeys December 18/19, 2014
To Go Forth
Jewish Journeys
December 18/19, 2014
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T
T H E N E W YO R K
Jewish Week
ravel can be many things — a momentary Rica, complete with private chef. Other stories, though, are cultural journeys stay against a humdrum life; a journey that reveal new layers of the Jewish travel exinto the past (remembering Faulkner’s perience. Staff writer Steve telling line, “The past isn’t Lipman looks back on a dead; it isn’t even past”); an visit to Kazakhstan, where experiment in cross-cultural he conducted several Passexploration, food and wine over seders; the Central included. We offer a little Cultural journeys Asian country, it turns out, of each in the pages that is far more sophisticated follow. Grab a suitcase and that reveal new than it has been portrayed come along. in popular culture. On a trip From Kazakhstan to layers of the to southern France, Freema Costa Rica, L.A. to Eilat, Gottlieb, quite unexpectour inagurual Jewish JourJewish travel edly, travels to a Pyrenees neys special section roams spa town to find the ghosts the globe for travel stories experience. of French Jews caught in the of Jewish interest. Some are grip of the Nazis. And Hilary traditional if-you-go, tourLarson chronicles a rich culist-centered travel stories. Israel correspondent Michele Chabin and her tural story playing out in Berlin — the outsize family leave the cushy confines of their Eilat influence being crafted by a small but growresort hotel and light out for the surrounding ing number of Israelis; from hummus joints to territory, so to speak; they take in the Dolphin magazines to nightlife, these days it’s Tel Aviv Reef, the International Birding Center and in the Kreutzberg neighborhood of Germany’s the Eilat Botanical Gardens. And our regu- cultural capital. It’s travel — but with the power to surprise lar travel writer, Hilary Larson, reports on a new travel business that offers full-service, and inspire. Happy trails. family-oriented kosher getaways in Costa ROBERT GOLDBLUM
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Jewish Journeys December 18/19, 2014
December 18/19, 2014
Conducting Passover seders in the former Soviet Republic reveals a place that Borat wouldn’t recognize.
Leaving the hotels and shopping aside for dolphins, exotic plants and migratory birds. Spotlight on Poland Warsaw museum illuminates country’s millennium-long Jewish history, and is sign of country’s Jewish revival. Plus, the museum’s ripple effects across Poland.
The Israelification of Berlin.
Journey into the fictive underbelly of Israel’s cultural capital in short story collection ‘Tel Aviv Noir.’
Exquisite beaches, tropical scenery — and a private chef to cook for the kashrut-observant family.
Updated version of Kutsher’s documentary captures the eclectic legacy of a Catskills relic.
Remaking the city’s now-hip (and touristy) Grand Central Market, whose deep Jewish roots go back nearly a century.
Beautiful beaches, a welcoming Jewish community and even a ghost, all just south of San Francisco.
Aulus and the need to remember.
The Catalonian city and the reclamation of its Jewish past.
Israeli hoteliers remain upbeat ahead of Passover vacation season.
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December 18/19, 2014
Conducting Passover seders in the former Soviet Republic reveals a place that Borat wouldn’t recognize.
Almaty, the former capital of Kazakhstan, still the country’s largest city, lies in the foothills of the Zailiysky Alatau mountains. WI KI M EDIA COM MON S
continued on page 8
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December 18/19, 2014
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Since the fall of Communism, holiday gatherings of Kazakh Jewry have become a popular draw. WI KI M EDIA COM MON S
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Because seeing is believing.
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December 18/19, 2014
The Western Wall. The FSU. The Lower East Side. Have a life-changing experience and see how we change lives around the world.
December 18/19, 2014
continued from page 8
In recent years, Kazakhstan has developed tourist attractions and facilities up to Western standards. Birdwatching is a big draw for the ornithologically inclined; the country is home to 500 species. In Almaty, Kazakhstan’s biggest city, the Central State Museum (csmrk.kz) offers a look at history from the Bronze Age to the present. A reasonably priced four-star hotel there, with double rooms for $88.50 a night, is the Saraishik (saraichik-hotel.kz). In Astana, the capital, the yurt-shaped Presidential Cultural Centre (7 7172 22 33 19) is a museum whose highlights include national jewelry and historical artifacts. Double-rooms at the Hotel Mukammal (mukammal.kz/en) start at $73.50 a night. The Cosmonaut Hotel (cosmonaut.
kz/indexeng.html) in Karaganda, where the Soviet Union’s space heroes stayed, is a connection to history. The Shabanbai-Bi Village (http://visitkazakhstan.kz/en/guide/places/view/482) at the foot of the Kyzylarai mountain range offers a slice of traditional village life. No kosher restaurant is open in the country now, but Chabad in Almaty does kosher catering. Vegetarian restaurants there include The Green House (facebook. com/thegreenhousekz) and Govindas (http://restoran.kz/cafe/3002-govinda-s). To make connections with the Jewish community, contact the Mitzvah Association (mitsva.kz), or the Chabad Houses in Almaty (http://lubavitch.com/centers/ detail.html?id=2806) and Astana (chabad. kz/19045.html).
Photo: Itay Sikolski
December 18/19, 2014
The art of hospitality. The hospitality of art.
Imagine a place as uplifting for the soul as it is relaxing for the body. A place of understated luxury and utter comfort, where you are surrounded by beauty at every turn – a place that, in bringing together the finest art and the warmest hospitality, brings people together from all over the world to share and experience both.
Elma.co.il | Zichron Ya'akov, Israel
December 18/19, 2014
Leaving the hotels and shopping aside for dolphins, exotic plants and migratory birds.
The Coral Beach Nature Reserve (dock shown) is the best place to snorkel or dive along the coral reefs, with their magnificent assortment underwater life. P HOTOGR AP H S BY M ICH ELE CHAB I N/JW
The Dolphin Reef Nature Reserve is the only place in Israel to snorkel or dive with the dolphins.
December 18/19, 2014
The Eilat Botanical Garden is an actual oasis in the desert.
Experience Israel’s magic with Hal Linden. JNF’S SUNSHINE MISSION May 27 - June 4, 2015 FOR ACTIVE ADULTS 55+.
December 18/19, 2014
Warsaw museum illuminates country’s millennium-long Jewish history, and is sign of country’s Jewish revival.
A portion of the “First Encounters” gallery within the core exhibition f the new POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews. P HOTO COU RTESY OF M. STAROWI EYSK A, D.GOLI K/POLI N M U SEU M OF TH E H I STORY OF POLI SH J EWS.
Above: A portion of the “Paradisus Iudaeorum” in the POLIN Museum’s core exhibition. Top and bottom right: The “First Encounters” gallery and a wooden synagogue are parts of the core exhibition. M. STAROWI EYSK A, D. GOLI K, W. KRYSKI / POLI N M U SEU M OF TH E H I STORY OF POLI SH J EWS
A wooden synagogue that is part of “The Jewish Town” gallery within the core exhibition of the new POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews. P HOTO COU RTESY OF M. STAROWI EYSK A, D.GOLI K/POLI N M U SEU M OF TH E H I STORY OF POLI SH J EWS.
niques by volunteers and students under the leadership of the Massachusetts-based Handshouse Studio. A larger-than-life-sized painted animation of 24 hours in the life of the famous yeshiva in Volozhin (now Belarus) founded at the beginning of the 19th century by a disciple of the Gaon of Vilna. A cartoon-like animation telling the story of the Baal Shem Tov, the founder of chasidism. “The Jewish Street,” a multimedia mockup of a typical street in pre-World War II Jewish Warsaw with exhibits on Jewish life between the two World Wars. Its layout in the museum corresponds to the exact pre-war location of Zamenhofa Street, the heart of the prewar Jewish neighborhood of Muranow. Evocative shifting video installations of field and forest Polish landscapes where Jews settled. Hundreds of quotations by and about Jews culled from public documents, official decrees and intimate letters and diaries. Interactive installations that allow visitors to “mint” a medieval coin, “print” pages from historic books, and “trace” and translate the epitaphs of century-old Jewish gravestones. The Holocaust gallery, which narrates the story of the Shoah in the words of people who experienced it. Postwar images of the rebuilding of Poland and Jewish life.
December 18/19, 2014
The POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews occupies a shimmering, glass-walled building that faces a dramatic sculptural monument on the site of the Warsaw Ghetto and Warsaw’s main downtown Jewish district. Designed by the Finnish architect Rainer Mahlamaki, the building itself was opened to the public in April 2013. The core exhibition, which opened Oct. 28, uses state-of-the-art interactive technology to tell the 1,000-year-history of Jewish presence in Poland in eight galleries that cover 45,000 square feet of exhibition space. Its name, Polin, means “Poland” in Hebrew, but also derives from a legend that when the first Jews reached Polish lands they heard birds chirping the welcoming expression “Polin.” In Hebrew, Polin means “Here you should dwell.” The core exhibit’s galleries are arranged by both chronology and theme: Forest, First Encounters (the Middle Ages), Paradisus Iudaeorum (15th and 16th centuries), Into the Country (17th and 18th centuries), Encoun-ters with Modernity (19th century), The Street, Holocaust and Postwar. Described by its director, Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett, as a “theatre of history,” the exhibit contrasts the grand sweep of epochal events with intimate glimpses of individual joy, pain, fear and reflection. Highlights of the exhibition include: The dazzling “Jewish Sistine Chapel,” the reconstructed and elaborately painted ceiling and bima of the now-destroyed wooden synagogue in Gwozdziec (now in Ukraine), built by hand using traditional tools and tech-
Ruth Ellen Gruber/Warsaw/JTA
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Experience Israel with Women Only
December 18/19, 2014
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THE JEWISH JOURNEY
Exceptional Pesach Program in Jerusalem for Health Care, Technology, and Business Professionals & their Families Conference attendees will: - Participate in daily sessions pertaining to Israeli Health Care and technology innovations - Visit the world renowned Hadasit Medical Laboratory in Jerusalem at the Hadassah Ein Karem Medical Center - Attend presentations by leaders, startups, and innovators in the health care and technology field - Gain familiarity with health care and technology products of the future
Package price includes: April 3 - 11, 2015 To register visit bit.do/passover15 or e-mail Taire@JewishJourney.co.il or Michal@JewishJourney.co.il $ 3,750 per person sharing a double room | $ 6,050 per person in a single room $ 2,700 per third person in a room Children ages 3-12 $1,200 | Children ages 12-18 $1,750 2 children ages 3-12 in a second room $6,000
For Yeshiva High School Students JULY 2015 STEP is an innovative program for science and tech minded students STEP is geared for th th grade students STEP takes place in Israel s leading university in Israel the Technion Participants will learn about entrepreneurship business models development and the global high tech industry Students will enjoy exciting trips and fascinating activities throughout Israel meeting with local business and industry leaders and exploring the unique entrepreneurial and innovative Spirit of the Startup Nation International School
For further information please contact: Tel. 508-455-4456 | www.jewishjourney.co.il E-mail: taire@jewishjourney.co.il
Revelers dancing at the Jewish Culture Festival in Krakow, one of many Jewish culture festivals in Poland. WOJCI ECH K AR LI N SKI continued on following page
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December 18/19, 2014
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The Israelification of Berlin.
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Boca Raton Resort
Opposite page, top: Dancing at a “kibbutz” party sponsored by Habait. Below, the scene at Feinberg’s hummus restaurant. Top, a Habait Tel Aviv beach party. Above, Yorai Feinberg, owner of Feinberg’s restaurant.
• A Waldorf Astoria Resort • Gorgeous Private Beach • Thought-provoking Lectures • 2 Championship Golf Courses • 30 Clay Tennis Courts • World Class Spa • NK Glatt Kosher Supervision
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Assaf Gavron, left, and Etgar Keret have stories in the “Tel Aviv Noir” collection.
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December 18/19, 2014
Journey into the fictive underbelly of Israel’s cultural capital in short story collection ‘Tel Aviv Noir.’
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A rental in Guanacaste. “There is a niche, and there is a need,” says kosher rental broker. COU RTESY OF KOSH ER C ASAS
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at Hunter Mountain
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December 18/19, 2014
Updated version of Kutsher’s documentary captures a colorful chapter in the American Jewish journey.
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Remaking the city’s now-hip (and touristy) Grand Central Market, whose deep Jewish roots go back nearly a century.
Jewish Explorations takes you out of the classroom and into the places where Jewish civilization unfolded. See, hear, taste, and touch the rich history of our global community and its people and learn from outstanding Judaic Studies scholar-teachers as you take part in one of our extraordinary and meticulously executed experiential study tours and cruises.
Join our next study tour! March 12 to 20, 2015
The People Before the Book: The Great Judaica Manuscript Collections of England Micah Wexler at Wexler’s Deli, above. Opposite page, inside the Grand Central Market. P HOTOS BY ANTHONY WEI SS
Join Gary Rendsburg, a noted scholar of ancient Israel and early Judaism at Rutgers University, as he leads you behind the scenes of the British Museum, the British Library, Oxford and Cambridge. Meet with the curators of these world-renowned collections. Visit museum workrooms to learn about the painstaking efforts used in collecting rare artifacts and preserving Jewish history. See local sights of Jewish interest in each city, enjoying tea and scones along the way. Space is limited to 18 participants.
Other Upcoming Study Tours and Cruises Study Tour: The Golden Age of Spain Led by Jonathan Ray, Ph.D., Georgetown University May 28 to June 8, 2015
Study Tour: The Jews of the American South: Charleston & Savannah
Led by Hasia Diner, Ph.D., New York University June 14 to 19, 2015
Study Tour: In the Footsteps of Rashi: The Jews of France Led by Rabbi Lance Sussman, Ph.D. August 3 to August 13, 2015
Study Tour: The Birth of Modern Judaism:
The Rise of the Rabbis in Classical Israel Led by David Kraemer, Ph.D., The Jewish Theological Seminary August 18 to 30, 2015
Study Cruise: Cuba & The Jews of the Americas: 1492 to the Present Led by Ronnie Perelis, Ph.D., Yeshiva University December 25, 2015 to January 3, 2016
For more information
www.groupist.com/jewishexplorations or call (800) 833-2111
continued on page 40
JEWISH EXPLORATIONS
We can create custom study tours and cruises that enhance your educational programing and fundraising for your synagogue, organization or group. For more information, contact Executive Director Moshe Margolin at mmargolin@groupist.com or (800) 833-2111 ext. 217.
December 18/19, 2014
Discover Jewish Civilization Around the Globe
December 18/19, 2014
29 Years of providing the best way at the best price to experience Israel. If you want to have a fabulous journey and support Israel at the same time‌.. If you want to know more about Israel, its people and history while having an experience of a lifetime
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Bar/Bat Mitzvah Tours Synagogue Groups Day School Groups Call for Brochures and Prices Like us on Facebook
Daily tours throughout the country 2 Kosher meals a day Touring by air-conditioned bus with licensed English speaking guides Per Person/Double Occupancy
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Wildflowers color the scene on a hike to Mori Point. GEORGE M EDOVOY
December 18/19, 2014
December 18/19, 2014
33 years of experience and success in traveling the world the Jewish way!
Aulus and the need to remember.
ECUADOR GALAPAGOS CRUISE MID-WINTER BREAK FAMILY TOUR WITH CHILDREN/GRANDCHILDREN JANUARY 15 - 22, 2015
THE COSTA RICA EXPERIENCE SCHOOL MID-WINTER VACATION 8 DAYS – 7 NIGHTS JANUARY 15 - 22, 2015
CELEBRATE PASSOVER 2015 IN THE CARPATHIAN MOUNTAINS 5-STAR DELUXE SPA April 2-12, 2015
In conjunction with Shai Bar-Ilan Tours
WATCH FOR OUR NEW AND EXCITING TOURS FOR WINTER & SPRING 2015 t UI "WF 4VJUF /FX :PSL /:
A memorial plaque in Aulus telling the story of Jews who died trying to escape the Nazis. AVI D KOR AL
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A sign pointing the way to one of the area’s thermal springs. DAVI D KOR AL
www.koshercasas.com
Exquisite villas with private pools Kosher kitchens with dishes and cookware Full menus of glatt kosher food Private chefs available Personal concierges for all your needs US and Canada: 866.613.3618 • International: 914.278.9454 info@koshercasas.com
The Casade d’Ars waterfall in the mountainous Aulus region. COU RTESY OF SEIX TOU R I ST OF F ICE
Signoff:
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December 18/19, 2014
Introducing Kosher Casas in Costa Rica The ultimate hassle-free exotic vacation for kosher travelers
December 18/19, 2014
The Catalonian city and the reclamation of its Jewish past.
A winding alleyway in the “call,” Girona’s Jewish distict.
The courtyard of the Nahmanides Institute for Sephardic Studies and the Museum of the History of the Jews. P HOTOS BY AB BY M ETH K ANTER
In Tuleda’s archives, remnants of documents record the lives of the town’s 15th-century Jews.
passover & all year round! December 18/19, 2014
The mikvah in Besalu is one of only two ancient ritual baths discovered in Spain.
In the courtyard of Salvador Dali’s house in Cadaques, on Catalonia’s Costa Brava.
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December 18/19, 2014
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The Romanesque bridge of Besalu.
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December 18/19, 2014
December 18/19, 2014
Israeli hoteliers remain upbeat ahead of Passover vacation season.
Pesach at the Inbal Jerusalem Hotel.
From Jerusalem to the Galilee
The elegant King David Hotel in Jerusalem.
December 18/19, 2014
The lobby lounge of the new Waldorf Astoria Jerusalem Hotel.
L A I C E P S ENT EL V A E R S I O T J P I R N T N I OR E
UR O Y N A PL
ER H T H R IG
event service ael. l l u f a s Isr Plus+ i d in e a s i s a x b e t y d in Pro compan ionals, locate in vents g e n l i ia n s c e plan alize profes s & Sp s , speci am of Simcha edding A e t S W r U u e s O Unique as and th ah urs t Mitzv d simch and, nd in e a n l g ique To i e n s a Bar/Ba r e U l s d I s out the ble custom dation grams h o g o g r n u m i p t o m r y a o a e h ra t cc cr olid Hotel A urneys t memo vices s o up H r j o k e s e ic m t p u n a q t uni por agme r trip re! VIP air & man nce. ke you a uch mo entals m m r t d o experie t n n e l A u m f t r g a n Ap ani and me
Contact Shari Alter in ENGLEWOOD for more information: 973.715.8132 or shari@protexsiaplus.com Contact us in ISRAEL: 011.972.50.529.1629 or harvey@protexsiaplus.com
www.protexsiaplus.com
December 18/19, 2014
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A Kutsher’s postcard.
COU RTESY MAR K KUTSH ER
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The primary author of Grand Central’s latest chapter is Adele Yellin, the owner and hands-on manager of the market. ANTHONY WEI SS
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