Retail Beauty 76 Winter 2023

Page 42

TABOO to TREND

THE SEXUAL WELLNESS REVOLUTION IN RETAIL

GEN-Z FRAGRANCE FAVOURITE

HOW DEDCOOL IS BREAKING DOWN BARRIERS

AT YOUR

SERVICE

THE RISE OF PERSONALISED EXPERIENCES

76 WINTER 2023
Skincare
www.freeze-frame.com

Turn Up the Heat

I’m sure by now you have noticed that our latest issue features a sexual wellness brand, PlusOne, on the cover. Sexual wellness has been identified as one of the top 10 emerging health trends of 2023. In addition to the increasing industry growth and personal use of sexual wellness products, there is a growing recognition that sexual wellness is a crucial aspect of overall health.

Sexual wellness products are now stocked at many retailers including Sephora, David Jones, and major pharmacy chains such as Blooms, Priceline and Chemist Warehouse. This change is a testament to the growing acceptance and openness surrounding this important aspect of our lives.

As a result, in-store shopping for sexual wellness products is expected to become more normalised – as these products are increasingly becoming available at mainstream retailers, consumers can now easily grab a number of intimate commodities alongside their regular beauty and wellness purchases. Would you like a vibrator with that mascara?

For this issue, Elisabeth King interviews Jodie Phillips, Managing Director of Chemcorp, the Australian distributor of PlusOne, about introducing the number one sexual wellness brand into the local market, where the sexual wellness category has experienced significant growth in recent years due to the emergence of sexpositive movements that have challenged gender and sexuality stereotypes and societal constructs. See page 10.

At the core of the sexual wellness movement is the belief that everyone deserves to feel comfortable and confident in their own skin. Whether consumers are seeking to enhance pleasure, address medical issues, or simply explore new experiences, there are a wide variety of products available to help them achieve their goals.

I jumped at the opportunity to take a deep dive into the world of sexual wellness to find out what’s contributing to the buzz around vibrators and other products on shelves, and what this means for both retailers and consumers. See page 20.

I am excited to welcome a new contributor onboard this issue, Jo Anne Hui-Miller, who was previously Managing Editor, Premium, at Inside Retail Australia, Asia & NZ before taking up a role at The General Store. Jo-Anne chats to Adrian Norris, co-founder of Aje, who has unveiled a new skincare and wellness brand Ikkari, see page 58, and also finds out why skincare services are on the rise, see page 42.

I had the pleasure of catching up with Guy Sebastian, who has launched a new fragrance inspired by his wife Jules, see page 50 and also sat down with Carina Chaz, who visited Australia from LA and shared with me how she is pioneering her cult gender-neutral, sustainable fragrance brand DedCool, see page 54.

There is loads more in this jam-packed issue, and thankfully I was able to squeeze in some pictures at the eleventh hour before going to print from the Dream Ball, see opposite page. It was very inspiring to see more than 400 guests from the cosmetics and fragrance industries glam up and dig deep to make valuable contributions to the Look Good Feel Better community service program, run by the Cancer Patients Foundation, to support those undergoing cancer treatment. There wasn’t a dry eye in the house when industry veteran Danielle Lill shared her own experience with cancer, and the team at Retail Beauty wish her all the best in her recovery.

retail_beauty_ retail_beauty_ RetailBeautyMagazine retail-beauty
EDITOR’S LETTER
“At the core of the sexual wellness movement is the belief that everyone deserves to feel comfortable and confident in their own skin.”
4| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023
Nicci Herrera (left) and Michelle Ruzzene (right) from Retail Beauty with Carla from Bankstown (centre) and the PlusOne launch.

The Ball Dream

few snaps from the night that honoured 33 years of the Look Good Feel Better community service program, run by the Cancer Patients Foundation, to support those undergoing cancer treatment 01.
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Chair of the Cancer Patients Foundation Board Rosi Fernandez. The Dream Ball was held at The Star, Sydney. Guests on the Retail Beauty table at the Dream Ball Master of Ceremonies Kerri-Anne Kennerly. From left: Leigh Campbell, Danielle Lill and Zoe-Foster Blake.

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The #1 sexual wellness brand in the US is now available in Australia. plusOne is breaking down barriers and outdated taboos regarding sexual self-pleasure with its line of beautiful, high-performance, and affordable sexual wellness products. The plusOne® range includes several different types of products and styles fit for any need. No partner? No problem! your plusOne is here.

CONTACT DETAILS

RETAIL BEAUTY

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Craig Hawtin-Butcher

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E: craig@intermedia.com.au

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Michelle Ruzzene

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E: mruzzene@intermedia.com.au

Director of Partnerships Nicci Herrera

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E: nherrera@intermedia.com.au

Art Director Katy Brack

E: kbrack@intermedia.com.au

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RETAIL BEAUTY

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10 COVER STORY PlusOne 12 INDUSTRY NEWS Latest local and international news 20 FEAUTURE A sexual wellness revolution in retail 26 EXPO Naturally Good preview 28 TRENDS How important is sustainability? 30 INTERVIEW Sonia Amoroso, Selfcare 32 PHOTOSHOOT The Big Chill 34 TRENDS Anti-ageing skincare 36 TRENDS Opportunities in premium cosmetics 38 TRENDS What we can learn from Sephora UK 40 BUYERS LISTS Sephora 42 TRENDS Skincare at your service 44 LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER 48 PHOTOSHOOT Into the Woods 50 5 MINUTES WITH Guy Sebastian 52 FRAGRANCE Fragrances of the World – Amber 54 FRAGRANCE DedCool Founder Carina Chaz 56 FRAGRANCE Winter trends with Laura Curtis 58 AUSSIE MADE IKKARI 60 PHOTOSHOOT Travel essentials 62 HAVE YOU MET? Samantha Lee 64 INFLUENCER Winter skin with Michael Brown 66 INFLUENCER Icy Ling breaks down Chinese social media 68 OUT & ABOUT 72 BRAND NEWS 6| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 RETAILBEAUTYMAGAZINE @RETAIL_BEAUTY

Contributors

ASSOCIATE EDITOR BUSINESS FEATURES

ELISABETH KING

Winner of the beautydirectory Star

Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism 2012, Elisabeth is one of Australia’s leading lifestyle and business journalists and contributes regularly to newspapers and magazines in Australia and the UK. She has an economics honours degree from University College London and is a three-time winner of the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association) annual beauty writing award on ‘The Business of Beauty’, and has also won a CTFA award for writing about men’s grooming. In November 2001, Elisabeth co-wrote the best-selling book Secrets and Lies - All You Ever Wanted to Know About Beauty

CLAYTON ILOLAHIA

Clayton works in communication and evaluation for Fragrances of the World where he assists industry guru Michael Edwards with the collection and evaluation of fragrance data from around the world. He is responsible for the communication of data insights and trends from the company’s award-winning database. Clayton has over 10 years’ experience in fragrance journalism, learning and development and luxury retail. He has completed numerous summer schools at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery and has a passion for creative perfumery.

MICHAEL BROWN

brown lipstick were all the rage, Jo-Anne entered a Dolly competition to score a haul of Covergirl make-up – and won! It was one of the best days of her life. She had zero make-up skills and all the products were completely wrong for her, but she slapped it on her face anyway and took pleasure in showing it off to her best mate at a sleepover party that weekend. Now she’s content and insights director at retail strategy agency, The General Store, which helps brands find solutions from store design and brand ID to strategy and advertising. Prior to that, Jo-Anne led a 15-year-career in journalism and was previously managing editor for industry publication, Inside Retail Asia-Pacific.

BRANDEE MEIER

Growing up as a dancer, Michael Brown was quick to learn the ‘art’ of make-up artistry. His career as a travelling make-up artist for some of the industry’s biggest brands saw him leave Perth for Sydney where he became a national makeup artist and trainer. His creative flair and great communication skills gave him exposure within the Australian celebrity and media scene. Michael is now not only a celebrity makeup artist, but also presenter, educator and brand ambassador with regular appearances on Channel 9’s Today Extra. Michael is also co-host of the Nova podcast Skinfluence.

Brandee began her photography career straight out of high school and has been shooting beauty products and fashion flatlays for more than 20 years. Brandee has worked for a variety of brands on their advertising and product shoots including editorial work with Napoleon Perdis and Jane Iredale, is an expert at portraits and model shots, and has dabbled in numerous step-by-step make-up application shoots. brandeemeier.com.au

ACCORD AUSTRALASIA LIMITED

Accord is the national industry association for the Australasian hygiene, cosmetic and specialty products industry representing the full range of products from luxury cosmetics and fragrances to industrial specialties. In keeping with the strong scientific basis of this industry, Accord also adopts a principled, evidence-based approach to policy inputs and representation with governments.

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |7

Good

VIBRATIONS

Chemcorp Launches the plusOne Brand to Supercharge the Sexual Wellness Market.

Sexual wellness has been tapped as one of the top 10 leading health trends of 2023. But the category has enjoyed explosive growth in recent years in Australia and overseas. An internet search for vibrators shows that many leading Australian retailers are strongly backing sexual wellness as a huge opportunity from leading pharmacy chains to specialist beauty companies.

David Jones also entered the sector in 2021 and hosted a popup in Sydney for Valentine’s Day in February. The Iconic, one of Australia’s biggest online fashion and sports retailers, debuted its wellness portal in 2020. Adore Beauty premiered its sexual wellness offering in 2019 and has been promoting it over the past three years. While Priceline has also been stocking vibrators since 2016 and has been increasing its commitment to the sexual wellness category.

PHARMACY EMPHASIS/ GROUNDBREAKING BRAND

Pharmacy has long been the go-to destination for sexual health products such as lubricants and condoms. This strong positioning was one of the main reasons we launched the plusOne brand at the APP 2023 conference on the Gold Coast in March, says Jodie Phillips, Managing Director of Chemcorp. “The sexual wellness category bridges the gap between physical pleasure and the therapeutic and vibrators have also become integral to pelvic floor health. There has been an influx of Kegel-based products to support women in this area which offers retailers and pharmacies expanded opportunities for sales and education.”

PlusOne is a pioneering US brand designed and developed by beauty and personal care company, Beacon Wellness Brands. “The range of beautifully-designed, high performance, safe and affordable products has made strides in the industry toward breaking down barriers and outdated taboos associated with self-pleasure,” says Phillips. “While much of its initial growth was via online channels, plusOne is now ranged in leading mass retailers and drugstores in the US, including Target, Walgreens and CVS, and now holds a 70 per cent market share and is also available in other international markets. The brand is excited to be working towards similar positioning in Australia where the sexual wellness category has continued to grow over the past several years, following an increase during the Covid-19 pandemic and the rise of sex-positive movements that have helped to remove stereotypes relating to gender, sexuality and social constructs.

HUGE GROWTH FOR SEXUAL WELLNESS MARKET/ CLINICAL STUDIES STRONGLY BACK THE TREND

Estimates of the future growth of the global sexual wellness market vary, but all of them predict spectacular CAGRs through to the end of the decade. According to leading analysis firm, Market Research Future, the worldwide sexual wellness market was valued at US$84.89 billion in 2022 and is projected to reach US$115.93

10| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023

billion by 2030. North America is the largest market in the world, followed by Europe, and the Asia/Pacific region is also expected to see significant growth.

Sexual wellness is defined by the World Health Organization as a blend of physical state, mental state and social wellbeing connected with sexuality. A definition corroborated by clinical studies conducted by plusOne, which discovered a host of health benefits associated with improved sexual health.

In a four-week depression and anxiety study, researchers found that 64 per cent of women felt less bothered by anxiety, 64 per cent felt less bothered by feeling tired and having little energy and 82 per cent were able to relax and enjoy more alone time.

A good night’s sleep is crucial to overall health and wellness. A four-week sleep quality study by plusOne found that 71 per cent of women reported an improvement in sleep quality, 62 per cent felt more cheerful and energetic during the day and 62 per cent were better able to concentrate on their daily tasks.

Skin also benefits from boosting sexual wellness. In an eight-week skin condition clinical study, plusOne found that 56 per cent of women reported an improvement in

skin texture, 59 per cent said their skin felt tighter and firmer and 66 per cent reported and overall improvement in their skin.

PELVIC FLOOR HEALTH - A GROWING CONCERN AND OPPORTUNITY

Many vibrators have cheeky and suggestive names and they are a great way to spice up the sex lives of couples or when alone. But doctors and pelvic floor specialists are also recommending them to restore the sex lives of menopausal and postmenopausal women.

Nearly 25 per cent of Australians are aged 50 and over and this potential market is huge. With the onset of menopause and the accompanying decrease in hormones, vaginal tissue gets thinner and drier. Vaginal muscles atrophy and can lead to painful sex - the so-called use it or lose it effect.

Vibrators help to stimulate pelvic blood flow with or without a partner and help to increase vaginal moisture, according to US health studies. Many older women find themselves in situations where they are not as sexually active as they used to be - single, divorced and widowed to no longer having regular sex with long-term partners. Women of all ages can also suffer symptoms of pelvic prolapse after giving birth and others are looking to strengthen their pelvic floor through Kegel exercises.

“A key area that really showcases the connection between physical and sexual wellness is the rise in education around pelvic floor health,” says Phillips. “PlusOne offers a Kegel trainer to incorporate this element of physical/sexual health together with vibrators. The brand has also launched into the men’s sexual health space with a product designed for couples,

the Vibrating Ring and a pipeline of innovation to tap into this market, as it reemerges following the swing to female-led sexual wellness”.

Another key product in the plusOne range includes the Fluttering Arouser, designed to mimic the sensations of oral pleasure form a partner with a fluttering tongue which creates a tantalising experience with settings from low to “o”.

OLD-FASHIONED IDEAS HAVE BECOME A THING OF THE PAST

It’s been 20 years since the popular US comedy-drama, Sex and the City, took vibrators out of the shadows and the famous Vibrator episode created a lasting buzz. “The current interest in sexual wellness is here to stay and more important than ever,” says Phillips. “Whether women are looking to increase their sexual pleasure or want to reap the many benefits showcased by plusOne’s clinical studies, incorporating vibrators into their lives has become normalised for many women as we can see in the huge market growth rates.”

With more and more retailers offering sexual and intimate wellness products, oldfashioned ideas and beliefs are becoming a thing of the past. The plusOne brand is stocked by leading big box retailers in the US because they realise that the retail environment and their online businesses are important to redefining the category and consumer shopping behaviour as the sexual wellness market continues to go from strength-to-strength. As more affordable models of vibrators that don’t cost $200plus enter the market, the category is also on track to becoming more accessible with wider appeal. ■

https://www.chemcorp.com.au/ collections/plusone

Sexual wellness is defined by the World Health Organization as a blend of physical state, mental state and social wellbeing connected with sexuality.
03. plusOne vibrating wand–just one of the different products and styles fit for women, men, and couples to enjoy themselves however and whenever they choose. 01. plusOne the Mini Massager
01.
02. Dual Vibrating Massager. 02.
RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |11
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CLARINS FAMILY COMPANY TAKES MAJORITY STAKE IN PAI SKINCARE

Two years ago, Famille C, the investment arm of the Courtin-Clarins dynasty, led a US$9 million funding round in Pai Skincare. The British brand was founded in 2007 by Sarah Brown, a former public relations executive, and is now available in 900 doors in 30 countries. Products such as Rosehip Bioregenerate Oil, Love & Haight Avocado & Jojoba Hydrating Moisturiser and Century Flower Lotus and Hyaluronic Acid Barrier Defence Mist have built up a loyal cult following in Australia. Pai Skincare is available from leading retailers such as Sephora, Adore Beauty, Lookfantastic, RY.com.au and Nourished Life and its own dedicated local websitewww.paiskincare.com.au. Famille C’s original investment in 2021 helped to expand the brand’s manufacturing facilities and boost the R&D pipeline. Following an increase in sales during the Covid-19 pandemic, the family holding company has taken a majority stake in Pai Skincare to fast-track the brand’s growth and position it as

REVLON ANNOUNCES NEW BOARD TO GUIDE PARENT COMPANY OUT OF BANKRUPTCY

Retail Beauty recently reported online that Revlon’s US parent company started its journey back from Chapter 11 bankruptcy in mid-April, following legal approval of its future re-structuring plans. The company became private and no longer trades publicly and was given to the lenders of a 2020 loan, officially dubbed the BrandCo lenders. Longtime owner, Ron Perelman, is no longer in charge and Revlon has announced a new board of directors to steer its future fortunes. The major lenders now in control include Glendon Capital

a leading clean beauty player in selective distribution. It’s time for Pai to accelerate in its country of origin, which is the UK, and to develop in Europe, added Prisca Courtin, CEO of Famille C. She also highlighted that 98 per cent of the ingredients in the brand’s formulations are vegan, natural and organic. Famille C was created six years ago and 90 per cent of its investments are in beauty and personal care brands. Its portfolio includes Ilia (the US clean skincare brand exclusive to Mecca in Australia), Joone Paris, a skincare brand aimed at mothers and babies and the US haircare brand, Ceremonia.

Management LP, King Street Capital Management LP, Angelo Gordon & Co and Nut Tree Capital Management LP and they have appointed a seasoned new board with wideranging experience to guide Revlon’s comeback. Debra Perelman, the daughter of Ron Perlman, will remain CEO, in addition to being a board member for the restructuring process. Leading the board will be executive chair, Elizabeth Smith, the former CEO of Bloomin’ Brands, the leading US restaurant chain whose portfolio includes Outback Steakhouse. With proven experience over several industries, Smith was the former chair of the Federal Reserve Bank of Atlanta and former president of Avon. Her CV also includes 14 years at Kraft Foods and she is also currently on the boards of Hilton Worldwide Holdings and the Authentic Brands Group, whose subsidiaries include Reebok and Nautica. Talking to the Wall Street Journal, Smith acknowledged that Revlon had been under-resourced and burdened with too much debt. “For the first time in years, Revlon will have the resources to reclaim

its full potential”, she added. The company navigated the Covid-19 pandemic but tipped into Chapter 11 bankruptcy because of supply chain issues and cost-of-living pressures. Under the restructuring plan, the company will shed US$2.7 billion in debt, leaving US$1.5 billion outstanding. The rest of the board is a powerhouse elite group with extensive corporate experience. Key members include Martin Brok, former CEO of Sephora, Timothy McLevish, former CFO of Walgreens, Hans Melotte, who has held senior positions at Johnson & Johnson and Starbucks, and Paul Pressler, chairman of eBay Inc and former CEO of Gap Inc. Smith emphasised the independence of the new Revlon directors and the fact that they are unaffiliated with the group of lenders recapitalising the business. Holly Kim, a founding partner of Glendon Capital, noted that the new board members had a proven track record of revitalising and building consumer brands. The value of the Revlon business if on track to be worth US$3 billion going forward. Revlon Australia and New Zealand was not affected by the parent company’s woes and has continued to perform strongly. The Australian business holds the #1 position in the lip, foundation and eyeshadow categories.

Pai Skincare founder, Sarah Brown.
12| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023

Weleda Skin Food Range

Intensive nourishment for dry skin

Crafted with active botanicals including pansy, rosemary, organic chamomile, calendula and sunflower oil, Weleda Skin Food nourishes and protects dry skin, leaving it lastingly smooth and soft. The signature fragrance of sweet orange, aromatic lavender and warm vanilla notes supports the holistic experience.

Skin Food 75ml & 30ml

Weleda Skin Food is the ultimate moisturiser for very dry, rough skin. Developed in 1926, this best-selling rich, thick cream has becomes a cult classic, beloved by makeup artists, celebrities, aestheticians, dermatologists and consumers world-wide. The all-natural plant blend intensively nourishes, softens and protects, giving skin a healthy-looking glow. Perfect for body and face, knees, elbows and dry patches.

Skin Food Light 75ml & 30ml

This lightweight, fast absorbing lotion provides immediate comfort and instant moisture to dry skin. Your skin will feel lastingly smooth and ready for anything. Suitable for face and body.

1 WELEDA SKIN FOOD PRODUCT SOLD EVERY 4 SECONDS*

Every day body lotion for dry to very dry skin is ideal for skin that craves intensive moisture. This fast-absorbing, non-greasy formula leaves your skin feeling nourished and comforted with a silkly-soft feel.

v Skin Food Body Butter 150ml

Rich in organic shea and cocoa seed butters this velvety-smooth cream provides immediate relief and comfort for dry and very dry skin. The easily absorbed, biome friendly formula is ideal for sensitive skin too.

Skin Food Lip Balm 8ml

The all-natural botanical blend of sunflower seed oil, chamomile and calendula is perfect for chapped, cracked and dry lips leaving them sublimely soft.

Pharmacy enquires & orders (02) 9316 9810 or admin@havenhall.com.au Other enquires weleda@weleda.com.au v Vegan *Cubeware Net Sales (sell-in) Worldwide

L’ORÉAL TO ACQUIRE AESOP IN DEAL WORTH $3.7 BILLION

L’Oréal signed an agreement with Natura & Co to acquire Aēsop in a deal that values the Melbourne-founded beauty brand at $3.7 billion (US$2.5 billion). The sale represents the largest known price for a luxury brand established in Australia. Aēsop was founded by hairdresser Dennis Paphitis in 1987 in Armadale, Melbourne, and soon became known for its signature amber packaging, plant-based ingredients and sustainable vegan formulations. Just over 10 years ago, Natura & Co bought a 65 per cent stake in Aesop for US$71.6 million. At the time, the company had more than 60 stores in 11 countries and annual sales of US$67.4 million. In 2016, Natura & Co acquired total ownership of Aesop, following its rapid growth to 177 stores in 20 countries and 80 locations in department stores worldwide. Today, Aēsop currently operates around 400 points of sale across the Americas, Europe, Australia, New Zealand, and Asia, with a nascent footprint in China where the first store opened in 2022. Natura & Co is a Brazilian global personal care cosmetics group headquartered in São Paulo which also own Natura Cosméticos, The Body Shop and Avon Products. Nicolas Hieronimus, Chief Executive Officer, L’Oréal Groupe, said: “I am very excited to welcome Aēsop and its teams to the L’Oréal Groupe family. Aēsop is the epitome of avant-garde beauty, whose products are not only made with great care and exceptional attention to detail; they are a superb combination of urbanity, hedonism and undeniable luxury. Aēsop taps into all of today’s ascending currents and L’Oréal will contribute to unleash its massive growth potential, notably in China and Travel retail.”

Commenting on the acquisition, Cyril Chapuy, President of L’Oréal Luxe, added: “My team and I are thrilled to have Aēsop join the L’Oréal Luxe portfolio of iconic global brands. Aēsop holds a very unique positioning on the global luxury beauty market

thanks to its design led brand essence, its highly efficacious and sensorial products as well as its customer-obsessed retail philosophy. We look forward to welcoming Aēsop’s CEO Michael O’Keeffe and his experienced and passionate teams to continue to grow together the brand’s remarkable potential, by carrying on cultivating its uniqueness and its values. We have great confidence that this strategic acquisition will join the L’Oréal Luxe Billionaire brands club and therefore contribute significantly to the growth of the Division in the years to come.”

Fábio Barbosa, Chief Executive Officer of Natura & Co said: “The divestment of Aēsop marks a new development cycle for Natura &Co. With a strengthened financial structure and a deleveraged balance sheet, Natura &Co, exercising strict financial discipline, will be able to sharpen its focus on its strategic priorities, notably our investment plan in Latin America. We will also be able to concentrate on continuing to improve The Body Shop’s business and refocusing Avon International’s footprint. We are proud of the remarkable success of the Aēsop brand, and we are extremely grateful to all Aēsop’s associates, who contributed immensely not only to Aēsop’s success, but also to making Natura & Co what it is today. We are confident that Aēsop’s growth story will continue under the ownership of L’Oréal and wish Aēsop continued success in this new chapter.”

The closing of the deal is subject to certain regulatory approvals and other customary conditions.

the cosmetic treatment market and has made a bid for Silk Laser Clinics valued at $169 million.

WESFARMERS OFFERS $169 MILLION FOR SILK LASER CLINICS

It’s a bit of an understatement to describe Wesfarmers as a titan of the Australian retail scene. The owner of Bunnings, Officeworks, Kmart and Target became a major player in the health and beauty category with last year’s acquisition of Priceline parent company Australian Pharmaceutical Industries (API) for $764 million. The $70-plus billion conglomerate is poised to expand its presence in

Silk Laser Clinics has been on a tear in recent years as Australians have spent up big on injectables, anti-ageing and hair removal treatments. Founded in 2009, the network has expanded from one store in Adelaide to 140 locations nationwide. It’s not the first foray into the lucrative sector for Wesfarmers. As part of the API purchase, the company acquired Clear Skin Clinics, the leading skin and hair removal specialists, and created a new Wesfarmers Health division. The Priceline business has also seen significant growth in health and beauty over the first six months of the current financial year. Silk Laser Clinics share price soared 20 per cent following the offer from Wesfarmers. The board and a leading investor, Wilson Asset Management, are strongly in favour of the deal unless a better offer emerges over the next month. Founder Martin Perelman notes that Australia’s non-surgical cosmetics industry continues to perform well in spite of cost of living pressures. With the backing of Wesfarmers the company and its franchisees would have even stronger support to increase growth and profitability. Both Wesfarmers and Woolworths have intensified their presence in health and wellness. The supermarket chain’s Healthy Life division has been building increasing heft in the beauty supplies and vitamins sector. Just before API accepted Wesfarmers buyout offer, Woolworths were also in the running with a potential $850 million bid but decided to drop out of the race.

14| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 INDUSTRY NEWS
Aesop Sydney

Weleda Calendula Baby Range

Gentle care from the very first day

Thoughtfully composed with midwives, loved by babies and trusted by parents for over 30 years. Nourishing extracts of hand-picked organic calendula, protect baby’s delicate skin and support healthy skin functions, naturally and gently, right from the start.

Calendula Nappy Change Cream 75ml & 30ml

A deeply nourishing, protective barrier cream to care for the delicate skin of the nappy area. Lanolin and zinc oxide provide a protective barrier against excessive moisture, while almond oil, precious biodynamic calendula and chamomile extracts soothe irritated skin and reduce redness. Recommended by Paediatricians.

Calendula Shampoo & Body Wash 200ml

Designed for baby’s sensitive skin, this mild formulation gently cleanses whilst preserving the natural oils of the skin. Almond oil helps prevent dryness. Naturally extra gentle on baby’s eyes and hair is easy to comb through. Recommended by Paediatricians.

Calendula Body Lotion 200ml

Enriched with perfectly campatible lipids, this nourishing lotion provides lasting protection and hydration. It’s milky consistency absorbs quickly, leaving baby’s skin velvety-soft and supple.

Calendula Baby Oil, Fragrance free

200ml

This organic fragrance-free oil with just two ingredients, treats dry, chafed or irritated skin. Baby’s skin will feel naturally supple, comfortable and moisturised. Suitable for daily care, baby massage and cleansing the nappy area. Treats dry scalp and cradle cap.

Calendula Face Cream 50ml

Organic calendula extract, skinprotecting lanolin and organic almond oil moisturise baby’s delicate facial skin. Easy to use and quickly absorbed for velvety-soft skin.

Baby Teething Powder, Oral Powder 60g

Helps relieve the discomfort and restlessness of teething in babies and children.

v v
Pharmacy enquires & orders (02) 9316 9810 or admin@havenhall.com.au Other enquires weleda@weleda.com.au DEVELOPED WITH PHARMACISTS AND MIDWIVES
v Vegan *Cubeware Net Sales (sell-in) Worldwide
9 WELEDA CHANGE CREAMS MINUTE* BEST SELLER
BEST SELLER

LVMH Q1 2023 REVENUES TOP US$23 BILLION

The world’s appetite for luxury products continues to surge. LVMH, the world’s largest luxury goods group, posted a 17 per cent increase in revenues for Q1 2023 to US$23.075 billion. Fashion and Leathergoods sales exceeded US$11.79 billion to take the top position as usual among the multinational’s core divisions. But the Selective Retailing division, including Sephora and DFS, saw revenues spike 30 per cent over the first quarter to exceed US$4.35 billion. The world’s largest speciality beauty chain scored particularly well in the US, Europe and the Middle East and its first store in the UK following its recent return to the British market enjoyed “an excellent start”. The Perfumes & Cosmetics division also saw an 11 per cent hike in revenues in Q1 to US$2.32 billion. Christian Dior continued its run as a bullet performer, mainly due to its pillar fragrances Sauvage, J’adore and Miss Dior. Makeup and skincare sales also increased. Parfums Givenchy debuted its new fragrance - Gentleman Society - in the first quarter. While Benefit Cosmetics successfully expanded its Porefessional franchise. Fenty Beauty received a major shot in the arm from Rihanna’s appearance at the US Super Bowl in February. During her performance, the superstar turned product placement into an art form when she touched up her makeup with Fenty Beauty’s Invisimatte Instant Setting & Blotting Powder, increasing the brand’s searches by 833 per cent. Travel retail sales rebounded strongly with the relaxing of restrictions linked

PIERRE FABRE ACQUIRES MÊME, THE FIRST SKINCARE BRAND TO TARGET THE EFFECTS OF CANCER TREATMENT

The Pierre Fabre Group has long been a dominant force in therapeutic skincare as the second largest dermocosmetic company in the world and the second largest private French pharmaceutical group. Power brands in the company’s stable include Eau Thermale Avène, Klorane, A-Derma and Rene Furterer. Last year, Pierre Fabre reported a global turnover of 2.7 billion euros (AUD$4.42 billion), 69 per cent of which was generated in international markets including Australia. Five years ago, Pierre Fabre bought a 5 per cent stake in Même, the first dermocosmetic developed for people experiencing the side effects of cancer treatments. The multinational has now acquired the brand from its co-founders and investors. The distribution network of Eau Thermale Avène has been instrumental in creating a

to the Covid-19 pandemic, notably in China. Perfume & Cosmetics have become an even stronger focus for LVMH going forward. As reported by Retail Beauty in March, the luxury goods giant appointed Stephane Rinderknech as the new CEO of the division to reenergise its efforts in the category. Prior to joining LVMH, Rinderknech had a distinguished 22 year career at L’Oréal and was CEO of the multinational in both the US and China. Bloomberg, the prestigious financial media company, also recently reported that Bernard Arnault, the founder, Chairman and CEO of LVMH, has become the third billionaire to achieve a net worth in excess of US$200 billion. The duo already in this rarefied “club” are Elon Musk and Amazon’s Jeff Bezos. With net worth of US$201.1 billion, Arnault is the first person outside the US to reach this stratospheric milestone.

strong presence for Même in France and 10 other countries, including Germany, Spain, Italy and China. Currently sold in 4800 drugstores and pharmacies, the brand has

enormous growth potential as cancer rates increase worldwide. Même was launched in 2017 by co-founders Judith Levy and Juliette Couturier, who both suffered from the effects of cancer treatment on their skin, hair and mucous membranes. Levy and Couturier will continue to helm the brand following the acquisition. The naturally-based brand was developed in collaboration with leading oncologists and dermatologists and donates 1 per cent of its sales to cancer. In addition to skincare, Même’s 46 SKU range also includes makeup and nail products. Through this acquisition, we confirm our strategy of investing in innovative brands and products in our priority areas of oncology, dermatology and dermocosmetics, added Eric Ducournau, CEO of the Pierre Fabre Group. “Through its positioning, Même is at the very crossroads of these three strategic priorities. When I first met Judith and Juliette five years ago, I realised very quickly that we shared common values and that their project had strong development potential. We will now continue to write this meaningful story together in service to those affected by cancer.”

Judith Levy and Juliette Couturier.
16| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 INDUSTRY NEWS
Bernard Arnault, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of LVMH.

Weleda Mother Care Range

Natural pregnancy care you can trust

Support the body during pregnancy, birth and beyond with this 100% natural and organic range.

Stretch Mark Body Butter

150ml

A buttery-rich balm made with extracts of centella asiatica, organic shea butter and cocoa butter. In conjunction with regular massage, proven to prevent and reduce the appearance of stretch marks. Fast absorbing with a delicate floral scent.

Stretch Mark Massage Oil 100ml

Trust this smoothing, softening combination of nourishing oils, full of vitamins A, D and E and essential fatty acids. Regular use helps to increase skin’s elasticity and visibly reduce the appearance of stretch marks. Easily absorbed, with with a delicate, light fragrance. Mineral oil free.

Perineum Massage Oil 50ml

This unique formulation was developed specifically to assist in preparing for childbirth. Regular massage increases elasticity and flexibility in the birth area and thus helps reduce the risk of perineal tear and episiotomy. Mild almond oil, vitamin E rich wheat germ, and sweet almond oils are suited for this sensitive area.

Nursing Tea, 20 Teabags 40g

Delicious and refreshing organic herbal tea. Made with fenugreek, anise, fennel, caraway and lemon verbena help balance fluid intake, thus supporting natural milk production.

Nipple Balm 25g

This fragrance-free and mineral oil-free nipple balm provides care and protection for sore nipples, cracked skin and chafing. Suitable for frequent use and safe for both mum and baby. No need to remove before breastfeeding.

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WESTFIELD DONCASTER JOINS SCENTRE GROUP’S BILLION DOLLAR SALES CLUB

Westfield Doncaster in Melbourne has become the latest of Scentre Group’s major shopping centres nationally to exceed $1 billion in Moving Annual Total (MAT). 2022 was a landmark year for retailers as Australian consumers went on a national spending spree following the end of Covid-19 restrictions. Six Westfield centres

JULIE MATHERS AND HEALTHPOST RESCUE FLORA & FAUNA AND NOURISHED LIFE

In July 2021, BWX acquired online ethical retailer, Flora & Fauna, for $27 million. Founded by Julie Mathers and Tom Abraham in 2014, the company specialises in ethical, sustainable and vegan

achieved a MAT of $1 billion - Westfield Bondi Junction, Westfield Sydney and Westfield Miranda in NSW, Westfield Chermside and Westfield Carindale in Queensland and Westfield Fountain Gate in Victoria. The now “magnificent seven” positions Scentre Group as the operator/owner of seven of the 10 highest-performing shopping complexes in Australia. Donny, as loyal fans call Westfield Doncaster, is a major beauty destination. Leading brand stores include Aesop, Chanel Fragrance & Beauty, Dior Perfume & Beauty, Innisfree, Jurlique, Kiehl’s, L’Occitane and The Body Shop. Major beauty retailers on-site include Myer, David Jones, Mecca, Sephora and Priceline. Beauty and clinical services also have a significant toehold from Endota Spa to Australian Skin Clinics, Laser Clinics Australia and Clear Skincare Clinic. Last year, Westfield Doncaster pulled in 14.8 million customers and the centre targets a trade area of close to 750,000 residents. John Papagiannis, Group Director, Businesses, for Scentre Group noted that over the past 12 months, Westfield Carindale, Westfield Miranda and now Westfield Doncaster attained the $1 billion MAT milestone for the first time. “The growth of sales across the Westfield platform is due to our sustained focus on driving customer visitation and curating the right mix of brands, in the right locations for our communities.”

products across 10 categories, including beauty and personal care. The fortunes of BWX, the owner of brands including Sukin and Andalou Naturals, nosedived into a highly publicised voluntary administration recently and the company appointed KPMG as receivers and managers to seek out new owners for some of its brands. The professional services firm called for expressions of interest in mid-April for BWX Digital, the division including Flora & Fauna and Nourished Life.

Sweeteners to attract interested parties included revenues of $32.5 million in combined platform sales in FY22 and 337,000 loyalty program members. The new owners of BWX Digital are Julie Mathers, the founder of Flora & Fauna, and HealthPost, the NZ-based online retailer, who were keen to snap up its two Australian competitors. The two partners have created a new company, The Future Collective, to oversee the future of Flora & Fauna and Nourished Life. HealthPost is a family-owned business founded in 1988 by Abel Butler and his partner Lilani Rogers. It is a pure-play online retailer of natural health, beauty and eco products with a range of 6000-plus items from 350 brands. The company’s annual revenues are NZ$35 million (AU$ 32.74 million). The Future Collective is 70 per cent owned by HealthPost, 15 per cent by Abel Butler and Lilani Rogers and 15 per cent by Julie Mathers and Tom Abraham, who now run the baby brand, Snuggle Hunny. HealthPost approached Mathers to assist in the acquisition of Flora & Fauna and Nourished Life and future prospects looks brighter as both partners are proven players in speciality e-commerce. Terms of the acquisition were not disclosed but the deal included IP, goodwill, websites, data and stock. Nourished Life was founded by Irene Falcone in 2011 and was bought by BWX in 2017 for $20 million.

18| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 INDUSTRY NEWS
Julie Mathers, founder of Flora & Fauna

Is cosmetic advertising allowed?

‘I love the feel of my sunscreen!’ Well, that may be so, but if you have been paid to appear in an advertisement, I’m afraid you can’t make that statement. You love the feel of your moisturiser? Go right ahead and say it. ‘I love the feel of my moisturiser!’ is a perfectly acceptable statement in advertising, even if you were paid to appear in an ad.

Confused? You’re not alone. While ‘regulatory nerds’ like me are used to some strange practical outcomes of ‘regulatory boundaries’ that divide the regulatory treatment of one product from another, not everyone is cut out to be (or, shock horror, wants to be!) a regulatory nerd.

The regulatory boundary here is one that divides ‘therapeutic goods’ from ‘cosmetic products’. Some products that consumers perceive to be cosmetics are actually therapeutic goods. These include some oral care products, some hand sanitisers, and—most relevant for this article— sunscreens: all ‘primary’ and some ‘secondary’ sunscreens that are moisturisers1

A recent change in the Therapeutic Goods Advertising Code (TGAC) means that ‘incentivised’ testimonials are not allowed for therapeutic goods. That is where the person making the testimonial may feel compelled or encouraged to make the testimonial. A very obvious example is an influencer being paid to appear in an ad to talk about their personal experience of using the product.

Accord Australasia, as the peak body representing the cosmetics industry, has been arguing for the importance of maintaining sunscreen advertising. Including those ads containing testimonials relating to aesthetic aspects of sunscreen such as texture, skin feel and fragrance, as these factors can encourage people to try new sunscreens or to use them effectively as part of sun protection.

Accord is grateful to the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) and the Therapeutic Goods Advertising Code Committee (TGACC) for allowing us to present our case and deliberating the merits. However, the ban on incentivised testimonials has been retained. It seems that the actions of an unscrupulous few may have unfortunately eroded the trust in industry.

This does not mean that the advertising of sunscreens must stop. The industry should continue to promote the benefits of using sunscreen and encourage people to apply it correctly (as well

as encourage other sun-safe behaviours). It’s just that advertising cannot contain testimonials—statements that include the words ‘I’, ‘me’ or ‘myself’. Ads can still show people using the product and contain statements on the benefits of the product. For example ‘light skin feel’ is allowed while ‘I love the light skin feel’ is not.

What about cosmetic products you ask? Incentivised testimonials are still allowed for cosmetic products. Of course, as always, they must meet the Australian Consumer Law requirements including being truthful, not exaggerating the benefits of the product not misleading consumers, and including full disclosure of the commercial relationship.

If you are unsure of the full advertising requirements for your therapeutic goods or cosmetic products, a good place to start is the TGA’s Guidance on applying the Advertising Code rules2 and the Australian Competition & Consumer Commission (ACCC)’s Advertising and Selling Guide3, respectively. It’s also good to remember that the ACCC’s rules apply to therapeutic goods as well as to cosmetic products but the TGA’s rules do not apply to cosmetic products.

And while we are on the topic of advertising, check out the recently released ACCC report Greenwashing by businesses in Australia - findings of the ACCC’s internet sweep of environmental claims4 . It’s a good reminder of businesses’ obligations under the Australian Consumer Law with regard to advertising, particularly for environmental claims. ■ https://accord.asn.au

1The main purpose of a ‘primary’ sunscreen is as a sunscreen. The main purpose of a ‘secondary’ sunscreen is as a cosmetic product (e.g. moisturiser, lipstick, foundation) with a ‘secondary’ benefit of sun protection. 2https://www.tga.gov.au/how-we-regulate/advertising/how-advertise/advertising-guidance/resources/resource/guidance/ guidance-applying-advertising-code-rules 3https://www.accc.gov.au/accc-book/printer-friendly/29527 4https://www.accc.gov.au/publications/greenwashing-by-businessesin-australia-findings-of-the-acccs-internet-sweep-of-environmental-claims RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |19 BUSINESS
Of course! But there are some rules…

Why we are witnessing a FEATURE

In recent years, there has been a significant increase in interest in products related to intimate care and sexual wellness. Once considered taboo, these products are now being embraced by beauty consumers as a way to achieve a more complete sense of wellness.

Viv Conway and Jo Cummins, co-founders of Girls Get Off and coauthors of A Girl’s Guide to Getting Off
sexual wellness retail REVOLUTION IN 20| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023

The market for intimate care and sexual wellness products has grown exponentially in recent years. According to a report by Grand View Research, the global sexual wellness market is expected to reach $189 billion by 2026. This growth can be attributed to a number of factors, including increased awareness and acceptance of sexual health, the growing popularity of wellness and self-care, and a shift towards more natural and organic products.

One of the key drivers of this trend is the growing focus on overall wellness and self-care. Consumers are increasingly prioritising their physical and mental health, and intimate care and sexual wellness are becoming a more integral part of that. Many beauty consumers view these products as an extension of their self-care routine, recognising the importance of caring for all aspects of their body.

One area of growth in the sexual wellness market is in the area of sexual health and pleasure. Products such as sex toys, lubricants and condoms are becoming more mainstream as consumers become more comfortable discussing and exploring their sexual health and pleasure. These products are no longer seen as taboo or embarrassing, and are being found more frequently at mainstream retailers including department stores and pharmacies.

David Jones launched a sexual wellness category in 2021, and a major Valentine’s Day promotion this year saw the department store showcase Australian sexual wellness brand Frenchie with a pop up in their flagship Sydney store.

Meanwhile, more than 30 new brand and product launches were recently showcased at the House of Sephora including four new sexual wellness brands including Dame, Lelo, Vush and Smile Makers.

Frenchie’s Professor of Pleasure, Eleanor Hadley, said there was growing awareness of the importance of sexual health and its impact on both physical and mental health as well as its ability to enhance connection.

“Even the World Health Organisation recognises the importance of sexual health and wellness,” she said. Breaking down the shame and stigma related to sex has led to more people being curious about their pleasure and exploring how they can enhance their sex lives, leading to a rising interest in using a vast array of sexual wellness products. Culturally, we are becoming a more sex-positive society, and people are openly talking about sexuality more than ever these days.”

Hadley suggested retailing intimate products alongside other health and wellness ranges.

“Gone are the days of sex being shameful or taboo, with the products relegated to dingy corners and back room,” she said. “Now sexual wellness deserves to be out in the open, normalised and positioned to spark conversation. I would suggest having sexual wellness products in likeminded areas - around other wellness, health and beauty products and near sexually relevant areas with things like lingerie.”

Hadley also recommended retailers invest in relevant training for staff members.

“Given the overall lack of adequate sex and pleasure education in our society, the more access to educational resources with sexual wellness products, the better,” she said. “Many products will come with guides and brands will likely have their own blogs and resources, but if retailers can also provide some expert-informed resources and staff training, this would be extremely helpful. There are a lot of unknowns when it comes to sexual wellness, and it’s important that products be used correctly, so the more informed staff and customers are, the better.”

Hadley said today’s consumers were more inclined towards designfocused products.

“Customers are much more design focussed these days and drawn to sleek and stylish packaging over the outdated, inyour-face style of sex products in the past,” she said.

“Many people would like to use products and devices that could easily be left out on the nightstand - either on purpose or accidentally - because they are discreet and stylish. Opt for minimal, modern design, smooth lines and classic tones. Another consideration might be where the products may be merchandised, if on a classic shelf then the packaging should consider height and width as well as be able to stand up and have all information in an easy to read format.”

Lovehoney Group B2B National

Account Manager Vicki Freind said there was a growing appetite for sexual wellness products such as sex toys, lubricants, and personal care products due to the decreasing stigma around using such products and increasing awareness of the benefits of pleasure.

“We saw a huge uplift in sales during the Covid-19 pandemic with consumers seeking ways to maintain intimacy and connection with partners or themselves,” she said.

Vicki said it was important for retailers to position sexual wellness products with like-minded products in the wellness

“Gone are the days of sex being shameful or taboo, with the products relegated to dingy corners and back room.”
Lovehoney Group B2B National Account Manager Vicki Freind
RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |21
Frenchie’s Professor of Pleasure,EleanorHadley

category and in an accessible manner to help customers feel at ease and empowered while browsing.

“It’s essential to provide clear and informative packaging and displays that highlight the features and benefits of each product to help educate customers and allow them to make informed purchasing decisions,” she said.

“Additionally, incorporating diverse product options and educational resources can help create a welcoming and inclusive environment that encourages exploration and experimentation.”

Vicki said it was “essential” retailers offered educational resources alongside sexual wellness products.

“Providing access to accurate and relevant information and even trained staff onsite can help customers make informed decisions and feel more confident in exploring their sexual desires, which for some may be their first time exploring this category,” she said.

“Additionally, offering educational resources can help reduce stigma and promote a more inclusive and welcoming environment for all customers. By including resources such as product guides, sexual health information, and instructional

huge increase in male partners acting as an ally for their female partner’s pleasure”.

“We believe Millennials and Gen Z demographics are more interested in the self-pleasure, sexual wellness space which has seen further demand for these products,” Viv said.

Viv said packaging and design factors should be carefully considered.

“Making the products and packaging fun, playful and approachable is key,” she said.

professional treatments on the rise, but the biggest challenge was empowering people to openly discuss intimate issues.

“As a specialist dermatologist, since having a device to strengthen and stimulate the pelvic floor in both men and women as well as a gynae laser for the vaginal canal, I definitely feel it is an area where people potentially suffer as they are too embarrassed to have the discussion,” she said. “This is the biggest barrier: that people either are too embarrassed to discuss their needs and concerns and that they don’t realise that there are measures that can be taken to help them with their concerns. So, it is a twofold issue that really needs a raising of awareness and a discrete way to bring up the conversation so people are empowered to discuss it.”

materials, retailers can demonstrate their commitment to customer satisfaction and support overall sexual wellness.”

Vicki stressed the importance of education when it came to packaging considerations.

“Approachable packaging that still highlights the product’s key features and benefits is favoured by most consumers,” she said.

“Additionally, it’s essential to ensure that the packaging is informative and easy to understand, with clear instructions on how to use the product. Design elements such as colour, imagery, and font should be carefully selected to appeal to a broad audience and promote inclusivity.”

Viv Conway and Jo Cummins, cofounders of Girls Get Off and co-authors of A Girl’s Guide to Getting Off said there was an “increase in female self- pleasure and a

“We wanted to make Girls Get Off products that women were drawn to, similarly to the packaging of their favourite skincare.”

Jo agreed and said in designing the packaging and branding “we ensured that is was approachable and appealing to our target market”.

“We used our iconic pink to ensure that our brand was recognisable, whilst also being playful,” she said. “We use discreet packaging to ensure the privacy and discretion of our customers. We are aiming to show self-pleasure a less ‘shameless’ topic and encourage everyone to explore their own pleasure in a comfortable and safe way.”

Specialist Dermatologist Dr Ritu Gupta from Platinum Dermatology said the demand for sexual wellness’ treatments was also increasing in clinic with request for

She said a high intensity focused stimulation treatment of the whole of the pelvic floor was equivalent to 11,000 Kegel exercises in 28 minutes, and that this could be combined with strengthening of the abdominal core muscles with another device leading to a whole floor to core improvement for strength, improvement of urinary symptoms and sexual function. A vaginal laser can improve internal vaginal canal tightening and help combat vaginal dryness. “It’s great for post-menopausal symptoms and also just for women who want to improve sexual function with tightening and increased lubrication,” she said.

Clearly, the interest in products related to intimate care and sexual wellness is high, and this trend shows no signs of slowing down. As consumers continue to prioritise their physical and mental health, the importance of caring for all aspects of the body, including intimate areas, will only continue to (pardon the pun) grow. ■

“...the demand for sexual wellness’ treatments was also increasing in clinic with request for professional treatments on the rise, but the biggest challenge was empowering people to openly discuss intimate issues.”
22| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 FEATURE
Dr Rita Gupta

The top celebrityowned beauty brands worldwide

Following on from their 2021 edition of the most successful celebrity beauty brands, Cosmetify has delved back into the world of celebrity beauty to uncover the celebrities with the biggest beauty brands in the industry right now.

Although no Aussies made the Top 10 list, Zoë Foster Blake, founder of Go-To Skincare and Miranda Kerr, founder of Kora Organics, made it into the top 20, coming in at an impressive 15th and 16th respectively. (Troubled BXW is searching for a buyer for Go-To, which it owns a 50.1 per cent controlling stake, after Zoë sold it to the company in 2021 for $89 million.)

THE RESEARCH REVEALS:

• Rihanna’s beauty empire is the one to beat when it comes to successful celebrity beauty brands. Fenty Beauty has received an overall score of 9.76/10 with a whopping annual revenue of $903,672,996. It is the wealthiest brand on the list.

• Kylie Cosmetics ranks second with an overall beauty score of 9.64/10. The reality TV star has been creating makeup for nine years now and has over 25 million followers on Instagram.

• Selena Gomez’s Rare Beauty completes the top three with a score of 8.97/10. Recently involved in some drama with the Biebers, Selena has peaked on Instagram and is now the most followed woman on the platform and her brand has over four million followers.

FURTHER INSIGHTS FROM THE STUDY ALSO REVEAL:

• Kylie Cosmetics is the most popular celebrity beauty brand on Instagram with over 25,800,000 followers on the platform.

• With 7,708,000 Google searches in the past year, Rare Beauty has been hitting the headlines for all of the right reasons and is the most sought-after brand on Google.

A look at the full data can be found at www.cosmetify.com/celebrity-beauty

With an annual revenue of $903,672,996 and over 12 million followers on Instagram, Fenty Beauty is officially the most successful celeb beauty brand in the world!
RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |23

GOODNaturally

Your guide to

Naturally Good is so much more than an Exhibition - it is a place where a community of like-minded industry professionals come together to share valuable insights and knowledge across various platforms, such as the Naturally Good Awards, Summit and Pitch Fest. Retail Beauty rounds up everything you need to know about the two-day event, being held June 5 and 6 at ICC Sydney.

NATURALLY GOOD AWARDS

A celebration of all things natural, organic and healthy – the Naturally Good Awards recognise the products and brands that are moving and shaking the industry. The Naturally Good Awards Gala Evening is held on Monday, June 5, after day one of the expo. See the brands who are pioneering and shaping this ever-growing industry get recognised by a panel of industry judges. There are Best Product Categories awards, including Best Beauty & Cosmetics Product, as well as Best Brand Categories including Retail Leader.

Monday, June 5, Parkside Ballroom 2, Level 2, ICC Sydney, 7pm - 9pm, $89 +GST

NATURALLY GOOD SUMMIT

The new and improved Naturally Good Summit is a one-day event where thoughtleaders and industry powerhouses share their insights, knowledge and tangible tips for brands, retailers and businesses.

Monday, June 5, ICC Sydney, 7:30am2:00pm, Early Bird: $300+GST Full Price: $390+GST

SPEAKER SERIES

The Naturally Good Speaker Series is a free conference running across both days of the expo packed full of practical, tactical sessions to help attendees achieve their goals. Learn about key factors impacting the market, discover innovative new products with supplier spotlights, hear best practice case studies, and leave with actionable insights and tools to shape strategies and drive success.

26| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 CONFERENCE

PITCH FESTSPONSORED BY KADAC

Businesses have the chance to pitch live to an esteemed judging panel of industry professionals, and audience of buyers for a valuable prize package.

DISCOVER THE SHOW FLOOR

Discover an exhibition full of natural, organic and healthy brands and products. A unique opportunity to connect with industry leaders and innovative start-ups as they showcase the latest products and trends shaking up the industry. There are five zones on the show floor including Beauty & Personal Care, Food & Drink, Conscious Consumption, Health and the Start-Up Zone.

AUSTRALIAN ORGANIC ALLEY

Launched for the first time at Naturally Good 2022, the Australian Organic Alley is an exciting feature that hosts members in a dedicated area of the Exhibition Floor, showcasing a variety of entirely certified organic products. Consumers are more aware than ever of what they put in and on their bodies and are increasingly reaching for certified organic products. Discover the latest products and innovations in organic, supported by Australia’s most recognised certification logo.

AUSTRALIAN MADE PAVILION

The Australian Made Pavilion is a dedicated space, right on the centre of the show floor, showcasing authentically Australian made products all in the one place. With consumer demand for Australian grown and manufactured products on the rise, this pavilion presents an excellent opportunity to discover and source the latest products.

FOODBANK

Foodbank is the largest hunger relief charity in Australia. This year Naturally Good is partnering with the organisation to fight back against hunger. When registering to visit the Naturally Good expo, attendees have the option to donate $5 which can provide 10 meals to families in need. Plus, $5 from each Naturally Good Summit ticket sold will be donated to Foodbank. ■

BEAUTY EXHIBITORS 2023

Here is a full list of beauty exhibitors exhibiting at this year’s Naturally Good event.

Wisdom Brands

Hanako Therapies

Dr. Bronner’s & Grants of Australia

Indira Organics

Base Soaps

Mimi Haircare for Kids

Soodox

QCamel

AYURSCIENCE

Ena

Well Being Evolution

La Maxime Pure Luxury Skincare

Techpack

Little Valley Distribution

UCC Australia

Hebeloft Pte Ltd

Mitty

Skymatics Holdings

Cinnamon & Clove

The Australian Camel Milk Company

Mamakuskin

Swift Grow

Luminous Body

Cryo Remedy

More information about the conference at https://naturallygood.com.au

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |27

How important is sustainability to Australians? Not very...

NielsenIQ has released findings on consumers’ sentiment towards retail sustainability. The report found 69 per cent of global shoppers feel sustainability is more important than it was two years ago, but cost, ease of access and clarity prevent them from adopting a more sustainable lifestyle. Australia bucked this trend in the Asia Pacific region by recording the second lowest global ranking - India recorded the lowest - to say sustainability is more important than two years ago.

Looking closer at the Asia Pacific results, NielsenIQ (NIQ) reported Indonesia as the highest-ranking country in the global study to say sustainability is more important than two years ago (86%), followed by Thailand (74%), Singapore (72%) and South Korea (69%).

NIQ’s study confirmed the top two reasons Indonesians place such a high and growing importance on sustainability are their concerns for personal health and /or safety as a result of climate change, as well as physically seeing more pollution and waste. Australia bucked the trend in the Asia Pacific region by recording the second lowest global ranking (India recorded the lowest) to say sustainability is more important than two years ago – 58%.

100% 75% 50% 25% 0% Global Indonesia Thailand Singapore South Korea Australia 28| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 TRENDS
Chart 1. Thinking of the consequences of climate change and the role sustainability plays; how important or not is sustainability to you compared to 2 years ago?
Source:NielsenIQGlobalSustainabilityReport,2022

Justin Sargent, President, NIQ Asia Pacific, said: “Consumers across the Asia Pacific region are clearly feeling the personal impact of extreme weather events and are more aware and informed of the importance of sustainability - ultimately fuelling their demand and the urgency for corporate action and accountability.”

Justin said although “positive consumer sentiment toward sustainability has been growing for more than a decade, however, the impact of purchasing preferences has yet to inspire a green revolution within the retail industry”.

“These results indicate that now is the time for that to change,” he said.

Across the Asia Pacific region, shoppers in Singapore, Australia and South Korea are significantly less likely to say it is easy to shop for products in a sustainable way - 45%, 37% and 29% respectively - versus the global average of 50%.

Justin said although shoppers around the Asia Pacific region “are more committed to sustainability” that “many have found it difficult to make daily decisions that support true sustainability impact”.

“It needs to be easier for people to live and consume in a sustainable way that aligns with other daily pressures,” he said. “This is a huge opportunity for retailers and manufacturers to align to an urgent consumer want and need.”

DRIVERS OF CHANGE

NIQ’s global sustainability report also revealed that the growing importance of sustainability is being shaped by three pressures: increasing government mandates, spiralling costs related to extreme weather events and escalating consumer demand for more sustainable products. The impact of greenwashing is also key to the story, as due to regulations and greater consumer scrutiny, companies will no longer get away with vague/false claims.

The NIQ study revealed shoppers are actively living more sustainably, with one in two taking their own shopping bags, avoiding waste and minimising electricity usage. Global consumers say that cost (41%), access (35%) and a lack of clarity (26%) stop them from adopting more sustainable lifestyles.

Globally one in 10, (11.2%) people say environmentally friendly/sustainability is most important when choosing a brand - ranked fifth. Affordability/price tops the ranks at 18.1%.

Nicole Corbett, Vice President Global Thought Leadership, NIQ said we were now at “tipping point” where “companies who have been proactive and genuine about climate action will be at a massive advantage as industries grapple to meet requirements and mandated sustainable efforts”.

“The outlook of rapid change across the next five to 10 years that will force companies, manufacturers, brands, and retailers to transform and commit to real sustainable business models,” she said.

“To meet targets that become increasingly stringent over the next 10 years, we anticipate a great deal of scrambling from companies that now realise it’s crunch time. They will look for easy wins in the short-term but the game changer is the requirement to report and validate their footprint and gain visibility of emissions and resource use across their whole value chain. This will require a long-term shift and for many a departure from how they currently operate.” ■

Further information can be found at NIQ.com.

Positive consumer sentiment toward sustainability has been growing for more than a decade, however, the impact of purchasing preferences has yet to inspire a green revolution within the retail industry.
Chart 2. How easy do you find it to shop for grocery products in a sustainable way? (Very Easily/Quite Easily)
75% 50% 25% 0%
Source:NielsenIQGlobalSustainabilityReport,2022 Global Indonesia Thailand Singapore
RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |29 TRENDS
South Korea Australia

MAKING A DIFFERENCE

Real

Retail Beauty talks to Sonia

Amoroso about the continued success of freezeframe and her latest brand - KEEP IT SIMPLE SKIN.

With more and more celebrities lending their names to skincare ranges and a raft of new brands hitting the shelves, consumers are looking for effective, science-backed skincare more than ever. No one knows this better than Sonia Amoroso, the founder of freezeframe, Australia’s number one clinical skincare brand. “freezeframe is all about helping women to solve their beauty problems and we are the leading skin innovator in Australia,” she says.

Amoroso has been one of the beauty industry’s most dynamic entrepreneurs for over 20 years and is responsible for developing some of the best-selling products on the market. While studying at the University of Technology in Sydney, she took a deep dive into skincare research as part of a research project. “My first startup began whilst I was at Uni and brought to market two of Australia’s most iconic health and beauty brandsNaturopathica with its hero Fatblaster - which reached number one weight loss supplement status within a year, and Skin Doctors Cosmeceuticals,” she says.

Following the sale of the two brands in 2006, Amoroso founded Self Care Corporation. After identifying a gap in the market for clinical-grade skincare, she launched freezeframe in 2009 with a single SKU - INHIBOX - the breakthrough instant freeze and lift product which became a global sensation. “The freezeframe brand became the number one selling brand in its category in 2016. Another hero product REVITALEYES also became the number one eye cream in Australia for four years in a row, which is an incredible feat for an Australian brand,” notes Amoroso.

HIGH GROWTH RATE/ OMNICHANNEL APPROACH

I have loved every brand I have launched but freezeframe is a true powerhouse, she adds. “We initially started with Myer and then moved strongly into pharmacy. The brand has debuted numerous categoryleading products and won multiple awards. The innovative range targets an array of beauty problems across the eyes, face, body, lips and eyelashes providing alternatives to professional services which are clinically proven and can be used by women in the comfort of their own homes.

“freezeframe is still growing strongly in Australia and we have achieved growth

rates of 60 per cent YOY in some of our channels and significant gains of 15 per cent in our lowest channel.” People also love transforming body products such as freezeframe’s non-surgical BREAST ENHANCER and TUMMY TUCK, which became number one and number two in body products at Priceline.” freezeframe has long had a global focus. “The brand has been very popular in China and enjoyed enormous success when the daigou market was at its peak, and we still work with the larger daigous,” says Amoroso. “We have a strong consumer base in China and are in the process of appointing a new distributor.

Sonia Amoroso
30| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 INTERVIEW

We also launched into the UK with our e-commerce store in late May.

Retail has changed so much since I started and although pharmacy is one of the best channels for freezeframe, we are looking at an omnichannel approach. I love what the specialist beauty chains like Ulta in the US, Sephora and Mecca are doing, both in-store and online. More and more, the key to ongoing success is to establish solid relationships with select retailers, who back the brand and offer new environments to attract new customers and serve existing ones.”

A CLEAN BEAUTY BRAND WITH SKIN-CHANGING RESULTS/ PERSONALISED ROUTINE FOR SENSITIVE SKIN

The global clean beauty market is booming. According to ResearchandMarkets, the world’s largest market research store, global sales hit US$7.22 billion in 2022 and are expected to reach US$14.36 billion by 2028.

As one of Australia’s foremost skin innovators, Amoroso keenly tracks trends but also adds a point-of-difference. Her latest brand to launch is KEEP IT SIMPLE SKIN - a clean beauty brand with a conscience.

“KEEP IT SIMPLE SKIN is a true passion project as it was built on my personal skin and health struggles,” says Amoroso. “Armed with the knowledge of over 20 years researching and developing clinically effective skincare, and knowing which ingredients deliver results, I went to work to formulate products which I could use without fear of triggering a reaction as I suffer from debilitating chemical sensitivities. I was used to checking the safety of every ingredient I put on my skin, so I put this knowledge to work and painstakingly formulated a range that would be safe for even the most sensitive among us. My vision was to develop a range that was safe for people and the planet, but never compromises on

delivering skin changing results.

“Formulated for sensitive skin but made for everyone, KEEP IT SIMPLE SKIN delivers a curated selection of products that allows consumers to simplify their skincare routine without sacrificing results. Only essential ingredients made the cut, so that customers can reduce the overload of chemicals from multi-step routines. The range also allows people to personalise their skincare routine by adding a few drops of a serum targeting their individual needs, to a moisturiser or eye cream.”

KEEP IT SIMPLE SKIN targets younger consumers and has only six SKUs - SECRET AGENT probiotic moisture defence, WHIPPED CREAM powder to cream 2 in 1 cleanser & exfoliator, SHUT EYE anti-dark circle eye defence balm, IT’S ONLY FAIR get even anti-pigment brightening serum, THE WRINKLE IRON deep wrinkle repair serum and QUINOA FACE LIFT instant face lifting and firming serum.

The brand allows you to mix-and-match your skincare essentials with a treatment serum based on your own personal needs. It incorporates multiple proven, yet gentle ingredients like peptides and probiotics into a skincare routine to achieve amazing results, says Amoroso. “As a new brand, It has been a slower burn but has done very well online. We are looking for new retail partners to help us build KEEP IT SIMPLE SKIN into

a strong brand in the clean beauty category which has so much potential.”

That same vision also drives Amoroso’s oral care brand alfree, a flavour-free toothpaste which allows people with chemical sensitivities and allergies to clean their teeth without exposing themselves to harmful chemicals. Apart from the original, alfree also has a natural pear and a whitening toothpaste made with bamboo charcoal, as opposed to coconut as people with sensitivities tend to react to coconut’s high acid content. The range has done very well in pharmacy, adds Amoroso.

EXCITING NEW LAUNCHES/ MULTIPLE AWARDS

There’s plenty in the freezeframe pipeline as well. “We recently boosted our BB BLUR blurring skin tint with probiotics,” she adds. “It’s a four-in-one product that acts as a tinted moisturiser, air brush perfector, anti-aging serum, and now feeds the skin’s microbiome to repair barrier function. Vitamin C rich kakadu plum helps to prevent signs of ageing and brightening beads offer an instant glow.”

freezeframe also has a very exciting product launching in September. “The new product uses advanced technology for hydrating and wrinkle-smoothing,” she says. “The effects are instant but last for two days and it’s very different from anything else on the market. It’s also a first for an Australian brand.”

Amoroso’s guiding philosophy is - be bold and fearless - and she has lived it to the hilt. During her career she has been recognised by numerous industry awards including the prestigious EY Entrepreneur of the Year Award, the Business Woman of the Year Award and Sydney Graduate School of Management MBA Scholarship. Her groundbreaking products have also won multiple awards, both in Australia and internationally and she has appeared on numerous television shows over the past 20 years.

Health and beauty remain Amoroso’s central passions, but she has also found the time to run a fashion label, debut a range of designer shoes and even produced a movie. In 2020, she was the executive producer of the inspirational film, Penguin Bloom, starring Naomi Watts and there is a second film in the works. “I love being creative, whether it’s transformational skincare, fashion or films,” she adds. “It takes a lot of hard work and dedication to run your own race but the rewards are truly amazing.” ■

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |31 INTERVIEW

The BIG

Top skincare products for winter skin salvation.

Kiehl’s Clearly Corrective Dark Spot Solution & Corrector - www.kiehls.com.au

1000 Hour Skin Exfoliating Wand - https://1000hour.com.au

No7 Laboratories Line Correcting Booster Serum - www.priceline.com.au

La Roche Posay Toleriane Dermallergo Eye Moisturiser - www.laroche-posay.com.au

Keep it Simple Skin Whipped Clean - https://keepitsimpleskin.com.au

Finishing Touch Flawless Dermaplane Glow - https://finishingtouchflawless.com.au

Laneige Water Bank Blue Hyaluronic Cream - www.laneige.com

32| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 Photography: Brandee Meier. Concept and product curation: Michelle Ruzzene.
Chill The Quick Flick Beauty Fridge - https://thequickflick.com.au Ultraceuticals Ultra DNA3 Complex Recovery Night Cream - www.ultraceuticals.com Skin Physics 3D Deep Hydration Lifting Mask - https://skinphysics.com.au Boost Lab CicaPlus Repair Serum - https://boostlabco.com Avène Hyaluron Activ B3 Concentrated Plumping Serum - www.avene.com.au QV Face Hydrate and Renew Serum - www.qvskincare.com.au Software Vitamin C & Ferulic Serum - www.skin.software Kopari Moisture Whipped Ceramide Cream - www.sephora.com.au RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |33

Anti-ageing skincare: innovative ingredients to watch

Exploring the scientific ingredients and trends in the China and Asia-Pacific markets.

While the growth of China’s anti-ageing skincare market may present challenges for some local skincare brands, it also has the potential to open up new opportunities and increase demand for high-quality, innovative skincare products from Australia. Reiko Hasagawa, Mintel Senior Beauty and Personal Care Analyst, Japan, provides Retail Beauty with a breakdown of the trends we are seeing in skincare in Asia including the growth of China’s anti-ageing skincare market and the ingredient trends happening in beauty.

CHINESE CONSUMER RECEPTION

China’s anti-ageing skincare market has maintained steady growth, driven by consumers’ awareness on skin ageing together with the younger generation’s increasing consciousness on preventative measures, and the post-80s generation moving into the aged 40+ stage.

The anti-ageing market is growing strong with a high penetration and consumers’ rising awareness on preventative measures treating ageing skin. The age difference in product usage foreshadows the next growth potential.

INCREASE IN ANTI-AGEING CLAIMS

As local brands are eager to win the attention of younger generations, early anti-ageing is taking a strong hold in the mainstream market and is driving innovation. Innovations in product texture/formats and technology are the key strategies to be able to differentiate the offer.

The anti-ageing claim stayed steady in product launches over the past three years; among key sub-categories, it has the highest percentage of launches in eyecare.

Key markets: anti-ageing skin claims in facial skincare launches, by market China: usage of facial skincare products with anti-ageing benefits, by sub-category, by age Source: Mintel GNPD, January 2019-December 2021 Base: China 2,302 female internet users aged 18-49 who are using anti-ageing facial skincare products Source: KuRunData/Mintel. January 2021 China Facial suncare products Facial serum/ essence/ concentrate Facial emulsion/ lotion Facial mask Eye cream/ essence Facial cream % of launches % of consumers Japan South Korea UK US France 2019 2020 2021 18-24 25-29 30-39 40-49 34| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 SKINCARE
ThreeAimingLotion

INGREDIENT DEVELOPMENT

Mainstream ingredients

• Hyaluronic acid

• Retinol or vitamin A derivatives

• Peptides (led by acetyl hexapeptide-8)

• Vitamin E (tocopherol)

• Collagen

Retinol is a classic anti-ageing ingredient. However, consumers have some concerns about traditional retinol regarding stability, irritation and the need to build tolerance at the beginning of use. Due to this, HPR, a derivative of retinol, has been actively used over recent years.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 enjoys the highest share of all peptides and the most prominent growth. It’s quite typical for brands to communicate the number of peptides, and there are cases that introduce the combination of relatively new peptides and classic ones. Collagen is a well-known ingredient. Recently, recombinant (human) collagen has emerged in the Chinese market, claiming to be based on the original gene sequence of human type III collagen, which is considered advantageous in terms of water solubility and biological activity.

Approaching mainstream ingredients

• Pro-xylane

• Astaxanthin

• Fullerene

• Beta-glucan

• Resveratrol

Emerging ingredients

• Ergothioneine

• Carnosin

• Copper tripeptide-1

• Idebenone (hydroxydecyl ubiquinone)

• Haematococcus pluvialis extract

Brands are aggressively targeting the youth market with ingredients that do not directly target wrinkles and sagging, but rather those that have value-added benefits such as antioxidant and barrier repair. They leverage ingredients like ergothioneine, blue copper peptides and sea fennel extract, which are rapidly taking over ingredient lists. We are also seeing innovations in classic ingredients such as collagen.

Proya Elastic Brightening Youth Essence contains ergothioneine, EUK134 and Lipochroman to improve early signs of ageing, decarboxylised carnosine and Collrepair to improve roughness and fine lines for smooth, delicate skin.

EMERGING PLAYERS

Honeymate Beauty Naturalism (HBN)

Brand concept

Honeymate Beauty Naturalism

(HBN) is an ingredient-focused skincare brand with the concept of ‘embracing visible efficacy”.

Ingredients

• Retinol

• Panthenol

• Ergothioneine

• α-arbutin

Key strengths

• Multiple self-owned patents in ingredients and technology, including:

- Bioyouth-EGT, a patented ergothioneine obtained from fermented Tricholoma matsutak and Hericium erinaceus

- ACTCOCOON, a patented phospholipid encapsulation technology that promotes the efficacy of the formula

• Self-owned formulation by professionals with research backgrounds at the Chinese Academy of Sciences

MRVL Skin Solutions (US)

Brand concept

Scientifically backed and naturally sourced luxury antiageing skincare. Ingredients

• Blue Scorpion Peptide is a peptide that’s ethically extracted from blue scorpion venom.

Key strengths

• MRVL Skin Solutions is the only skincare line on the market that’s formulated with naturally derived and highly purified Blue Scorpion Peptide.

• It uses a nano delivery system to extend the release of targeted anti-ageing ingredients over time.

APAC VIEW

Japan: precise and holistic solutions to meet anti-ageing needs

As one of the top claims in skincare, anti-ageing appeals to consumers of different generations, and the market is expected to grow due to an ageing population and high life expectancy.

After the Covid-19 outbreak, innovations have targeted ‘mask ageing’, which are signs of ageing caused by the prolonged use of face masks. Beauty devices have been gaining more attention to boost the effects of skincare products, most noticeably in facial/ scalp muscle-stimulating devices.

Going forward, there are opportunities for brands to onboard a wider audience to anti-ageing or ageing-well products as we will live and work longer. The link between beauty, health and wellness will gain importance to satisfy consumer needs and help them find balance. Waphyto and Three’s new Aiming skincare range are representative brands taking a holistic approach to beauty. ■

Natura l ism
Honeymate
MarubiRecombinant
MRVL SkinSolutions Collagen Essence
RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |35 SKINCARE
Proya Elastic Brightening Youth Essence

Luxury Necessity: TO

EVOLUTION, TRENDS, AND OPPORTUNITIES IN PREMIUM COSMETICS

EVOLUTION OF THE PREMIUM COSMETIC INDUSTRY

• In the early stages, cosmetic brands were focusing on the development of quality products with attractive packaging. These brands frequently catered to affluent consumers and were only sold at departmental stores.

• As the market grew, premium cosmetic brands began to expand into new markets, such as Asia and South America. These brands adapted their products and marketing strategies to cater to the unique needs and preferences of these new consumer bases.

• In recent years, there has been a rise in the popularity of niche premium cosmetic brands that focus on specific segments of the market, such as clean beauty or personalised products.

• As consumers become more environmentally conscious, premium cosmetic brands are placing a greater emphasis on sustainability in their production processes and packaging.

Premium cosmetics have become the newest trend among beauty aficionados looking for the ideal beauty experience, from designer scents to high-end skincare products. The market for premium cosmetics was estimated to be worth $125.1 billion in 2023, and it is anticipated to expand quickly at a CAGR of 7.6 per cent over the ensuing ten years. By the end of 2033, the market for high-end cosmetics is anticipated to reach US$261 billion.

TRENDS IN PREMIUM COSMETICS

Clean Beauty and Wellness have become a major trend in this market

Clean beauty has become a major trend in the premium cosmetics industry, with consumers increasingly demanding products that are free from harmful chemicals and eco-friendly. Brands are responding by creating products that are formulated with natural and organic ingredients and are packaged in sustainable and recyclable materials.

Brands are responding to this trend by creating products that are free from harmful cosmetic chemicals, such as parabens, sulfates, and phthalates, and using sustainable and organic ingredients.

FROM
The need for high-quality products that deliver effects that go beyond superficial skin care has increased in the beauty sector at an unprecedented rate in the modern world.
36| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 TRENDS

Furthermore, wellness has become a major trend in the premium cosmetics industry, with brands offering products that are designed to promote holistic wellness and self-care. This includes products that contain adaptogens, probiotics, and other ingredients that are believed to promote overall health and well-being.

Technology to Foster Consumer Retention with Online Sales

Technology is playing an increasingly important role in the premium cosmetics industry, with brands incorporating innovative technologies into their products to enhance their efficacy and improve the customer experience. This includes tools such as facial scanning and virtual try-on features that allow customers to test products before purchasing them. As a result, online sales of cosmetics are expected to rise in the next decade, from 2023 to 2033.

The Presence of Counterfeits is Key Deterrent

However, the presence of counterfeit products is the major concern that may hinder the growth of this market. Over the next 10 years, it is expected that the availability of fake goods and the high price of luxury cosmetics would be the main factors limiting the growth of the premium cosmetics sector.

OPPORTUNITIES IN THE INDUSTRY

Men’s Personal Care - A Rapidly Growing Segment for Manufacturers

Over the years, there has been a shift in societal attitudes toward male grooming and self-care. Men are becoming more conscious of their appearance and are willing to invest in products that help them look and feel their best. As a result of the propelled interest of men in personal beauty, it’s expected to unlock many business opportunities for both existing and new premium cosmetics suppliers in the future.

Digital Marketing Can Unlock the Potential of Social Media

With the increasing use of social media and e-commerce, digital marketing offers a significant opportunity for companies to reach a broader audience and drive sales. Companies that can effectively leverage social media platforms, influencer marketing, and other digital marketing strategies can gain a competitive edge in the market.

Asia Pacific and the Middle East are likely to stand on manufacturer’s choices

The premium cosmetics industry is experiencing significant growth in emerging markets, particularly in Asia and the Middle East. Companies that can successfully penetrate these markets and cater to the unique needs and preferences of consumers in these regions have a significant opportunity to grow and succeed in the market. China and India are expected to remain dominant markets due to rising personal income in these countries. To create a product that is both safe and successful in the cosmetics industry, research, and development are essential. Unquestionably, the best approach to keep ahead of the competition and deliver better products is to constantly innovate better, more efficient, cleaner, and safer products. ■

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |37 TRENDS
“...the propelled interest of men in personal beauty, it’s expected to unlock many business opportunities for both existing and new premium cosmetics suppliers in the future.”

SEPHORA’S NEW UK STORE:

THREE TRENDS TO INSPIRE OTHER beauty retailers

Sephora’s new store in Westfield White City, which opened in March this year, marks its return to physical retail in the UK after it stopped trading in the UK in 2005. The opening follows the retailer’s takeover of FeelUnique’s website in October 2022.

38| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 TRENDS

Investing in physical space will help Sephora, a fascia more known internationally, to boost its visibility in the market, as more than three in five adults in the UK claimed they had never used or heard of Sephora, as of November 2022.

The retailer has clearly set high standards for its future store roll-out plans, and so what can store based retailers learn from the new Sephora flagship store?

LEADING WITH PROFESSIONAL TREATMENTS

The store is brought to life by the in-store Beauty Hub. Positioned in the centre of the store, it features a range of different services, carried out by both in-house Sephora experts and brand representatives.

The range of professional treatments is expansive, with an array of express skincare treatments on offer from specialists such as Dermalogica and Elemis. In terms of makeup services, the retailer has taken a tiered approach, with treatments ranging from £30 ($56) for a ‘Feature Focus’ appointment, up to £60 ($112) for ‘Full Glam’. Offering a range of price points will ensure that treatments are accessible for a wide range of shoppers, particularly relevant for the likes of Sephora, which attracts a younger audience.

ENCOURAGING EXPERIMENTATION

The store adopts the feel of a ‘beauty playground’, helping to foster a destination shopping experience. As well as private label options, Sephora offers a range of exclusive brands, such as Makeup by Mario and Ariana Grande’s REM Beauty. Whilst these may be available to buy online, one in four adults would typically visit a store to try a product before purchasing a premium/ luxury branded beauty and personal care product they hadn’t used before. Making these products accessible in a physical retail setting will enable shoppers to experiment with new products before buying, helping to drive footfall.

The store also features Sephora’s first ever lipstick bar, which covers an array of branded colours and finishes. An engraving service across fragrance is also available to in-store shoppers, offering a more unique experience for shoppers.

Maddie Malone is a Research Analyst for Mintel’s Beauty and Personal Care Reports team in the UK. Her responsibilities involve conducting research and writing reports that focus on the BPC categories within the UK market.

Beyond the product range, an array of in-store technologies, such as virtual try-ons and diagnostic tools, are on offer to help shoppers find the right product for them. Branded shade finders from the likes of Lancôme are available across colour cosmetics, whilst Sephora colleagues are also on-hand to offer advice to those less comfortable using these virtual tools.

ATTRACTING THE SEPHORA TARGET AUDIENCE

The new opening is well positioned to cater for the retailer’s target demographic: Gen Z shoppers. A Hot On Social Media corner will resonate with those in younger demographics who are avid users of platforms such as TikTok and Instagram, which are often key drivers behind beauty products going viral. Calling out trending products in-store will help shoppers in making the links between the physical experience, and what they’ve seen on social media.

A fixture which highlights ‘The Next Big Thing’ in terms of products, also illustrates how the retailer is catering for their target market, with younger shoppers typically more interested in keeping pace with beauty trends.

The store also includes a fixture dedicated to ‘Sephora Favourites’ which are value-orientated boxes containing a variety of beauty brands. Sephora calls out the RRP for the total contained products, benchmarked against the retailer’s cheaper price. These boxes are also themed, for example, an ‘Iconic Female Founders’ selection is likely to appeal to female shoppers. A combination of communicating value, combined with highlighting important causes, will resonate amid both a challenging economic setting, combined with one whereby ethical issues are at the forefront of shoppers’ minds. ■

To find out more about Mintel research, please visit mintel.com/spotlight.

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |39
2. 3. 1.

THE SEPHORA BEAUTY BUYERS’

Secret Product Picks

With more than 300 brands on shelves, along with its own private label, the Sephora buyers must have a tough - but incredibly amazing - job picking their favourite products.Michelle Ruzzene caught up with some key members of the Sephora beauty buying team who revealed the products they can’t live without. You’re welcome.

MADDISON

LE-MAY FOX

Makeup By Mario Softsculpt Transforming Skin

Enhancer, $49

Mario can do no wrong! I use this skin enhancer as a bronzer and it simply diffuses into gorgeousness wherever placed. Buff across the high points of the face for that ‘Did they just come back from a holiday?’ colour.

IT Cosmetics Confidence In A Cleanser, $53

I’ve gone through bottles and bottles of this. A sensitive skin dream! It deeply cleans the face and leaves it soft and supple like you’ve just moisturised! I love to follow up with the Confidence in a Cream for hydration on hydration.

beautyblender BOUNCE Always On Radiant Skin Tint, $47

I can no longer gatekeep my favourite skin tint! This lightweight foundation has a gorgeous glowy and blurring finish. My favourite part is the longevity which makes it perfect for every day.

Milk Makeup Hydro Grip Primer, $62

This is our best-selling primer for good reason! It’s my absolute go-to for those long days (or nights) where I need my makeup to stay on and look fresh all day, and it also gives you a glowy finish to your foundation. Once applied to the face, let it sit for a few seconds for the formula to become slightly tacky for maximum efficacy.

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum, $173 (50ml)

I first tried this in 2017 and have not stopped since. It is the single skincare product that will never be replaced in my routine, it always leaves my skin feeling more hydrated, plumper and helps fight the fine lines from ageing. I use it day and night, and if you’re an avid ANR fan yourself, you’d know the best tip is to add a drop or two into your foundation for a natural, lit-from-within finish.

Nudestix Matte all over face blush – Picante, $57

I love a good blush and the Nudestix range is one of the best in the business. You’ll find me wearing a Nudestix blush most days, but Picante is a fave of mine. The orangey-red hue really perks up my complexion and makes me look more awake. They’re super easy to apply and bring on the go, perfect for touch ups while you’re out and about.

MEI
40| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 BUYERS LIST

KAREN STYLES  Senior Manager, Category Management

Sephora Collection Vitamin C & E Super Glow Serum, $32

A new favourite of mine for bright and glowing skin, with a 7% Vitamin C+E formula, it is still super gentle and can be used every day morning and night. It leaves my skin so glowy and plump all day and is an amazing base for makeup!

Makeup by Mario Moisture Glow Lip Plumping Serum, $40

When it comes to the ultimate lip product, I love something fuss free, easy to apply and natural looking. Plumping? A bonus! This is the perfect finishing touch for that ‘no-makeup makeup’ everyday look.

Shape Tape Contour Concealer, $50

When it comes to concealing/contouring without a cakey finish, my go-to is Tarte Shape Tape. Known and loved for a reason, it is super easy to blend and brighten any of those dark circles!

CAMILLE SERISIER Category Executive, Skincare, Haircare & Wellness

Make Up For Ever - Ultra HD Light Capturing Self Setting

Concealer, $48

I’ve gone through about four tubes of this now, it’s my Holy Grail concealer and I often use it just where I need it, skipping foundation! It blends seamlessly and has enough coverage to tackle discolouration, blemishes and dark under eye circles without looking cakey.

Biossance Squalane + Phyto-Retinol Serum, $115

This serum is amazing for gently exfoliating flaky areas on my sensitive skin and clearing up any small patches of texture after I get the odd blemish! I use it two to three times a week at night after cleansing and before using a moisturiser. I also love that it features 100 per cent plant based squalane and is part of our Clean at Sephora range.

Vinergetic C+ Overnight Detox Oil, $66

With winter just around the corner this is a go-to for me! I know the label says Overnight but rules were made to be broken right? I usually apply three drops of this oil (forehead and one on each cheek) right after my serum morning and night - when my skin is a little damp still so it spreads super easily and sinks right in. It doesn’t mess with my makeup throughout the day or leave me feeling too oily but adds a gorgeous glow and helps calm down any areas prone to redness.

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |41
With winter just around the corner this is a go-to for me!

Skincare

AT YOUR SERVICE

“Since Covid, we have found our customers are craving more physical touchpoints, contact with experts and great experiences.”

In addition to Face Gym, Mecca has recently unveiled Mecca Aesthetica at Highpoint in Melbourne, focusing solely on tech-led services carried out by qualified dermal therapists. In-store, the beauty giant has also launched Skinspaces, dedicated areas where customers can enjoy skin consultations and express skin services.

It wasn’t long ago that consumers were wearing face masks and avoiding beauty treatments, too scared to get their nails or hair done. Fast forward a couple of years, and at Mecca, skincare junkies are now back in stores, getting their cheeks rigorously pulled and pummelled using techniques and products from LA cult brand, Face Gym. Never heard of it? Face Gym is an intense workout for the skin, using high-energy facial massage techniques like whipping, kneading and knuckling and cutting edge technology to tone and tighten.

“We launched Face Gym at our Sydney flagship earlier this year and the customer response has surpassed all expectations. We are already looking to expand the offer to meet demand and we would love to see more Face Gym locations in more Mecca flagships in the future,” says Maria Tsaousis, Mecca’s head of new concepts and services.

“Our skin services at Mecca are centred around what our customers want – access to knowledgeable and friendly experts, treatments that deliver results and the convenience of being able to get great service, high performance treatments and the very best in brands and products all in one place,” Tsaousis explains.

The strategy behind the success of Mecca’s services lies in offering a personalised experience for consumers through customisable skin treatments. New diagnostic tools capture high-resolution images that help customers understand

Thanks to innovative technologies and consumers’ hunger for personalised experiences, new skincare services are on the rise, whether it’s a lunchtime LED treatment or an intense Face Gym workout.
42| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 TRENDS

their skin concerns and create personalised treatment and product regimes.

The skincare category shows no signs of slowing down and by 2025, it’s estimated that the global skincare market will be US$189.3 billion.

According to global consulting firm McKinsey, some of the biggest trends in the post-pandemic beauty industry lie in the growth in brands offering both products and services’, consumers’ preferences for specialised experiences, and the increased centrality of customer experiences.

Executed well, services can lead to deeper customer relationships and increased in-store foot traffic, but according to McKinsey, “they will need to develop a clear strategic objective, build a unique customer experience, and carefully consider their capital expenditure requirements”.

“Recent upheavals and ongoing technological innovations are leading to innovative offerings in both products and services across the industry,” it said in an article. “Companies that are slow to

develop a robust services strategy that adapts to and capitalises on this new battleground are at risk of falling behind.”

MAKING FACIALS ACCESSIBLE TO ALL

Meanwhile, savvy entrepreneurs are tapping into new opportunities in the services space, like friends and industry experts Katelin Gregg and Ella James, who launched Fayshell in December, a subscription-based skincare clinic based in Bondi Junction, Sydney.

“When visiting a skin clinic, the treatment menus are often too overwhelming, expensive and time consuming,” says Fayshell co-owner, Ella James.

“This was the inspo behind our brand. We want to bring facials to the every day, educating our clients about their skincare needs and offering a customised experience, to ensure they put their best face forward.”

There are four tiers of membership at Fayshell, from the first-time customers who receive a skin analysis, consultation and skin plan, to the ultimate package, including skin needling, chemical peels,

hydrabrasion, herbal peels, unlimited LED treatments and more.

Fayshell attracts two types of key customers, explains James. The first are skincare fanatics who already have treatments but Fayshell provides them with cost savings, the convenience of having access to an LED bar, as well as other membership perks.

The second type of customers are those at the beginning of their skincare treatment journey and have no idea where to start. For them, the membership-based service is somewhere that they can show up regularly and be accountable, but with the help of a skincare expert to lead the way.

According to Gregg, consumers’ views of services are also evolving. Rather than focusing on injectables and using filler, they are now looking to skin treatments to improve skin laxity and volume. Many are also recognising the importance of starting an appropriate skincare regime and treatments at a younger age in an effort to get ahead of the ageing process.

“Another key thing we’ve noticed is that people are wearing less and less makeup. Skin is at the forefront of beauty at the moment and it’s kind of that dewy, clear healthy complexion that is really being portrayed as beautiful,” Gregg says.

Following on from consumers’ desire for personalised services, Fayshell’s services are also customisable and guests are guided by a skin expert who understands their concerns and goals and can tailor a complete treatment especially for them.

“When we did our market research, over 50 per cent of people only found the time to have a facial when they received a gift certificate. We’re trying to really shift the perception that facials are an indulgent luxury and help people understand the benefits of proactively looking after their skin,” says James. “We want to create a facial salon that you can visit with the in-and-out position of a nail salon…Facials shouldn’t be reserved for a big event or luxury spa. ■

The skincare category shows no signs of slowing down and by 2025, it’s estimated that the global skincare market will be US$189.3 billion.
RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |43 TRENDS

Brands and retailers partnering for purpose

For brands and retailers looking to have real impact, charity partnerships offer the opportunity to improve the lives of those in the community while engaging staff, customers, and stakeholders, and highlighting an organisation’s values.

Setting a stellar example of partnering for purpose, Revlon proudly joined forces with Chemist Warehouse for International Lipstick Day 2022, with a campaign in support of charity partner, Look Good Feel Better.

With the help of local brand ambassador Delta Goodrem, Revlon continued to deliver on its commitment to empower and support women through the purpose-led campaign, donating $2 from every Super Lustrous Lipstick sold exclusively through Chemist Warehouse. Results far exceeded expectations, with a total of $78,000 donated to the Look Good Feel Better program at the completion of the campaign.

Revlon General Manager, Kaitlin Rady says; “We create beauty innovations for everyone that inspire confidence and spark joy every day. Therefore, I am so proud of the partnership between Revlon, the Delta Goodrem Foundation and Chemist Warehouse to raise awareness and funds for Look Good Feel Better. As an organisation, Look Good Feel Better provides invaluable practical skills and knowledge to manage the side-effects of cancer treatment. Knowing that we help in a small way to empower women to feel more like themselves, and hopefully face the day with a little more confidence is very important.”

“For over 20 years Revlon has been supporting Look Good Feel Better and though we regularly donate product for their Confidence Kits for cancer patients, this is our big moment once a year where we encourage all Australians to get involved too,” says Kaitlin Rady.

For the charity, the goal of supporting 10,000 Australians undergoing cancer treatment each year is an impossible

undertaking without the commitment and generosity of the wider community.

Carol Kavurma, General Manager of the Cancer Patients Foundation and Look Good Feel Better says, “Partnerships like this are vital for the longevity of our program. The incredible contributions of brands like Revlon and retailers like Chemist Warehouse have meant cancer patients across Australia could access our program in a way that best supports them through the rigours of cancer treatment.”

Given the incredible success of the 2022 campaign, the brand, retailer, and charity will partner again this year with the purpose of helping even more Australians face their cancer diagnosis with confidence.

This year International Lipstick Day is Saturday, July 29, however, to maximise the support of the Look Good Feel Better program, Revlon’s International Lipstick Day campaign will run from July 6 until August 2, 2023. Occurring exclusively through Chemist Warehouse nationwide, $2 will be donated from every Super Lustrous Lipstick sale throughout the campaign period.

“We are so grateful that Revlon and Chemist Warehouse will be partnering in support of our program again this year, and we’re grateful to their compassionate customers for choosing to contribute to something so meaningful for those undergoing cancer treatment across the country,” Kavurma said.

To support Revlon’s International Lipstick Day campaign, visit www.ChemistWarehouse.com.au

For more information on Look Good Feel Better, the services offered, and partnership opportunities visit lgfb.org.au, follow on Facebook, Instagram and LinkedIn @LGFBAustralia, or email info@lgfb.org.au

With the help of local brand ambassador Delta Goodrem, Revlon continued to deliver on its commitment to empower and support women through the purpose-led campaign.

Celebrate WEARS SUPER LUSTROUS S UPPORTINGLOOK GOODFEELBETTE R TODELTAGOODREMFOUNDATION DONATED FROM EVERY LIPSTICK SOLD* *Valid From 07/07/2022 to 03/08/2022. Please visit the Revlon website for further information at of 22/30 Maddox St Alexandria NSW 2015, which administers the national Look Good Feel Better program.
How Revlon and Chemist Warehouse joined forces to support Australians with cancer through Look Good Feel Better.
44| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 CHARITY

Sign up to take on this year’s Dry July challenge, or support someone else who has, and you can help fund 200 Look Good Feel Better workshops across Australia.

You can participate alone, or take on the challenge as part of a team.

To register or donate, scan the QR code below.

https://www.dryjuly.com/beneficiaries/LookGoodFeelBetter

@LGFBAustralia

ROOM RUNWAY

Ethical Uncomplicated Ageless

ABOUT RUNWAY ROOM

Runway Room is authentically Australian, and is known for its uncomplicated, ageless and ethical products, with a commitment to inclusion, diversity & equality.

Our premium products are packed with natural ingredients and the latest technologies in makeup & skincare. Trialled and tested in Runway stores gave Alex first-hand insight into consumer behaviour.

The carefully curated range features core hero products that hold cult status, and hold an average rating of 4.5-5 stars. Customers have fallen in love with our sophisticated, weightless formulaswhich offer affordable luxury.

We have a fast-growing, loyal customer base, and we continue to strive to meet the growing demand of brand-lovers Australiawide who are looking to access our products in-store.

Runway Room is fastly becoming one of Australia’s favourite brands...
BECOME A STOCKIST enquiries@runwayroom.com www.runwayroom.com.au 46| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023

FIRST BASE HYDRATING PRIMER | $69.95

Silver in Global Makeup Awards 2023

First Base is the ultimate beauty fluid for glowy skin on the go! Bursting with hero ingredients, this luxe skin conditioner is the perfect daily skin essential that can be worn alone, or can be used as a skin-perfecting primer.

The formulation provides an instant moisture deposit and visibly reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in just 6 hours!

What’s in it for you?

Containing Kakadu Plum the richest source of Vitamin C, Pomegranate Extract to treat dry and dull skin, White Sapphire for a silky feel and subtle lustre & 2% Hyaluronic filling spheres for hydration & youthful looking skin.

FROM THE MOMENT FIRST BASE HIT THE MARKET, THE BEAUTY FLUID AND SKINCARE HYBRID SOARED TO BESTSELLER STATUS WITH AN OUTSTANDING 5-STAR AVERAGE RATING.

RUNWAY ROOM IS:

Australian Made & owned

• Not tested on animals

Sustainability always at the forefront of our product development

Founded by Australian Makeup Artist with 25+ years industry experience

An uncomplicated range; demystifying beauty & making it accessible to everyone

A complete mineral range & veganfriendly options

A salon-heritage brand; trialled & tested on real customers, allowing us to curate inclusive beauty solutions for everyone

• Clean, weightless and luminous formulas with no PFAs & suitable for all skin types

• Dedicated to creating carefully curated sets, paired with tools and education to remove the complication and decisionmaking from beauty buying

First base Hydrating Primer Beauty Station Glow Set - ‘Just like Magic’ RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |47
First Base can be used on its own to deliver a super hydrated, nourished, and radiant complexion, or underneath makeup as a primer.
THE WOODS The Best Woody Fragrances That Are Universal Crowd-Pleasers into Le Labo Santal 33 www.lelabofragrances.com.au Bvlgari Pour Homme https://cosmaxprestige.com Amouage Purpose EDP www.libertineparfumerie.com.au Jo Malone London Wood Sage & Sea Salt www.jomalone.com.au Maison Margiela Replica Jazz Club EDT www.mecca.com.au 48| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023
Photography: Brandee Meier. Concept and product curation: Michelle Ruzzene. Chloé Santalum www.coty.com Circa Amber & Sandalwood Candle https://circa.com.au Elie Saab La Collection Vetiver https://cosmaxprestige.com Santa Maria Novella Vetiver https://au.smnovella.com Moncler Pour Hommehttps://cosmaxprestige.com
RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |49
Givenchy Gentleman Society https://cosmaxprestige.com

Guy Sebastian

MINUTES WITH... 50| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 INTERVIEW
5

Guy Sebastian first shot to stardom in 2003 after winning the first season of Australian Idol. Since then, he has released multiple albums and won numerous awards for his music, but now the beloved Aussie singer has just launched his first perfume, Embrace for Her, into Chemist Warehouse. Michelle Ruzzene sits down for an intimate chat with the hugely popular and incredibly down-to-earth singer, songwriter, and musician to talk more about his debut scent inspired by his wife Jules.

TELL US ABOUT THE INSPIRATION FOR EMBRACE FOR HER:

I decided to create a fragrance for my wife Jules, who has a unique taste in scents, after being encouraged by my expertise in male fragrances. I am very familiar with male fragrances and knew it was time to expand my skills into creating a female fragrance. I incorporated my love for oud, woods, tobacco, and unique spices that aren’t commonly used in fragrances, which resulted in a scent that was both complex yet easy to understand. When you smell it, you know it’s nice, but it takes a while to figure out why. I wanted the scent to immediately captivate Jules’ attention, which is why I incorporated a sweet aroma that develops into something more with the subtle notes of cedarwood. The fragrance perfectly reflects Jules’ preferences and I am very proud of it.

WHAT ARE THE FRAGRANCE NOTES?

notes of red peony, rose damascene and jasmine grandiflorum before transcending into bottom notes of warm amber woods, patchouli indonesia and spicy and exotic vanilla orchid.

TELL US ABOUT THE CREATIVE PROCESS:

The biggest thing for me was that I can describe music and be very articulate when it comes to the technical terms. I can describe that to another musician. But to a nose, to someone who makes fragrance, I know what I want but I don’t know how to explain that. So, I had to use a lot of examples. I sent several fragrances through of what I love. I would say ‘I love the woodiness of this and the earthiness of this one and the grassiness of this. I do want a little bit of essence, not rose but oud rose’. I use tons of different examples and then we narrowed it down from there based on all of the samples we received and fed back on.

WHY IS IT CALLED EMBRACE?

HOW DID PASSION FOR FRAGRANCE BEGIN?

I’ve always loved fragrance. When I was little, I remember my dad leaving for work. He’s a geologist and would go away for a month at a time and I was always sad when he left because there was no mobile phones back then, so we weren’t able to communicate with him. We’d see him all dressed up and ready to go to the oil rigs and he’d give us a big cuddle with his stubble and I was left with the lingering smell of Drakkar Noir, the fragrance he always wore. I always loved the smell and I guess it’s something I became obsessed with. Even at school I used to lay on the aftershave and today I always wear a scent depending on how I feel every morning, and where I’m going and what I’m wearing.

The modern and romantic scent opens with top notes of aromatic and fruity red currant, davana and lychee, with middle

To embrace is very much my love language. I’m a very affectionate person and my kids know they can’t walk past me without cuddling me. It sounds a bit needy (laughing) but that’s how I receive love. Learning each other’s love languages is very important. When you give someone a hug, it’s physical. Touch is what defines an embrace. But a fragrance is the thing that extends the life of that embrace.

TELL US ABOUT THE BOTTLE:

The concept is the idea of two parts of one whole, coming together and completing one another. The two parts are the square and circle of the chic and strong Embrace fragrance bottle, representing Jules and I embracing one another. The intersection on the bottle forms the perfect shape, and is emblazoned in a fiery red, conveying the passion of our love and connection. ■

Embrace for Her by Guy Sebastian is available exclusively at Chemist Warehouse stores Australiawide and online via www. chemistwarehouse.com.au.

Jules is very into fragrances, and her tastes are quite unique.
RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |51 INTERVIEW

The evolution of iconic and noteworthy fragrances 1904-2022

Amber 1904 AMBRE ANTIQUE Coty 1921 EMERAUDE Coty 1925 SHALIMAR Guerlain 1932 TABU Dana 1994 MESSE DE MINUIT Etro 1998 LOUKHOUM Keiko Mecheri 2000 MUSC RAVAGEUR Editions de Parfums 2001 ’EAU D’AMBRE EXTRÊME L’Artisan Parfumeur 2014 ROSE NIGHT Montale 2015 AFRIKA-OLIFANT Nishane 2016 BLACK CALAMUS Carner Barcelona 2016 GOOD GIRL Carolina Herrera 1965 HABIT ROUGE Guerlain 2004 AMBRE NARGUILÉ Hermès : Hermessence 2004 TOLU Ormonde Jayne 2019 CACAO PORCELANA Atelier Materi 2018 L’IVRÉE BLEUE Ormaie 1937 SHOCKING Schiaparelli 52| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 FRAGRANCE

Michael Edwards’ Fragrance Wheel holds the key to everyone’s likes and dislikes with a classification system so innovative it had to be copyrighted. For the past four decades, the Reference Guide has taken the guesswork out of matching fragrances. The current guidebook includes a genealogy of each fragrance family, with noteworthy and iconic fragrances from the past century.

Sensual blends of golden resins, opulent flowers, sweet vanilla and musks are introduced by refreshing citrus, green or fruity top notes. The new ‘sheer’ amber fragrances gained ground in the late 1990s, but the of full-bodied, take-noprisoners amber scent endures.

1988 ROMA Laura Biagiotti 1988 AMBRE PRÉCIEUX Maitre Parfumer et Gantier 2014 BLACK OPIUM Yves Saint Laurent 2011 PRADA CANDY Prada
1978
VANILLE Comptoir Sud Pacifique 1978 VANILIA L’Artisan Parfumeur 1981 MUST DE CARTIER Cartier
2006
2006
2019
2020 DIVINE
2020 HAYBA Ajmal 2021
1985 OBSESSION Calvin Klein Iconic fragrances are in bold RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |53
2006
AMBRE 114 Histoires de Parfums
EAU DE BAVX L’Occitane LABDANUM 18 Le Labo 2007 TOBACCO VANILLE Tom Ford : Private Blend ORSON Carine Roitfeld
PASSION Ted Lapidus
A TAHAA AFFAIR Glasshouse 2021 VANILLA DIORAMA Maison Christian Dior 2022 FREE D’HOMME Costume National

COOL PLAYING IT

When Carina Chaz founded DedCool, a fragrance brand located in Los Angeles that is genderneutral, her objective was to produce high-quality, sustainable fragrances that are vegan, cruelty-free, and non-toxic. After huge success early on, the core fragrance range has now expanded to include poop drops, laundry detergent, candles and car fresheners, available exclusively at Mecca in Australia. Michelle Ruzzene sits down with 29-yearold entrepreneur to find out more about the ways DedCool is breaking boundaries and blurring lines in the fragrance world.

WHAT’S THE STORY BEHIND NAMING IT DEDCOOL?

Naming the brand was the last piece of the puzzle, which is funny because typically, it’s the first step in starting a business. When I began DedCool, I never anticipated it would become as significant as it is today. I still have moments where I have to pinch myself, especially when I’m traveling to Australia, to realise that this dream has become a reality. What started as a passion project has evolved into a growing business with about 30 employees. The name “DedCool” reflects our desire to create a new way of experiencing fragrance. We wanted to be rebellious and do things our way, which is why the name holds a special meaning for us. It means nothing, but it means everything at the same time, as we strive to make an impact and provide our customers with fragrance extensions that fit seamlessly into their daily lives.

54| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 FRAGRANCE

HOW DID DEDCOOL BEGIN?

The concept of DedCool has been around since 2016. It started as a passion project very humbly on Instagram and with me knocking on doors of little boutique shops. I was just looking through my mum’s photos and laughing as there’s a photo of me with a little trunk show table with my products and now DedCool has a huge display at Mecca. It’s totally surreal.

WHY DID YOU PARTNER WITH MECCA?

Mecca is an incredible place to be. Prior to visiting, we could only imagine what it would be like, but seeing it in person has exceeded our expectations. The store and the people we have encountered have been exceptional, and we feel fortunate to be part of the Mecca family.

YOU HAD SOME SUCCESS EARLY ON?

Our journey really started in 2018 and 2019, during which we experienced a lot growth. We had the opportunity to launch in Barneys New York (Barneys closed down in 2022) which was my dream at the time because Barneys was renowned for its niche perfumery. It was an honour to be alongside Le Labo and Byredo, brands that had made such an impact in the fragrance industry’s early years. Our launch in Barneys was a trial, and we sold out within a week. It was then that I realised that the DedCool story needed to be told.

HOW DID COVID-19 IMPACT THE BUSINESS?

We were very bootstrap and had no outside investment. So, figuring out how to get our story told with little to no marketing budget was challenging. But, from there, we saw tremendous growth, especially during the pandemic, as people were staying at home and needed a way to uplift their mood, and fragrance was the perfect solution.

HOW DO YOU CREATE EACH SCENT?

It can take up to a year to complete a scent, although I’m aware there may be easier and more efficient methods out there. When creating a fragrance, I allow myself to be inspired by the moment and jot down any notes or feelings that come to mind. Each scent I create is like a personal journey, reflecting different stages of my life. One of my earliest scents, which has become very popular, was created when I was 21 and exploring my identity as a young adult, feeling confident and empowered. It’s interesting to revisit scents I’ve created at different points in my life, as they bring back specific memories and emotions. I often wear a scent for around six months to fully explore its nuances, but the great thing about my brand is that customers don’t have to commit to just one fragrance. Our newest scent, Smiley Face Garden, was inspired by my

recent 29th birthday and my desire to play with a rose scent, which symbolises maturity. We approached it in a fun and playful way, as a reminder that growing older doesn’t mean losing your sense of fun and youthfulness.

WHY IS NICHE FRAGRANCE BECOMING SO POPULAR?

For a long time, fragrance has been considered a luxury item that people would only use on special occasions. However, nowadays, people are using fragrance as a means of self-expression, incorporating it into their wardrobe. Personally, I choose my fragrance based on my mood, attire, or how I’m feeling. It’s crucial to create accessible products that people can use to express themselves, just like they would with makeup, hair, or jewellery. This evolution is fantastic, and fragrance has become an essential component of one’s self-expression. Individuality is crucial, and smelling the same as our friends is not desirable. Playing with fragrances is an excellent way to express oneself. There is no wrong way to do it. It’s all about how you feel and your mood in that moment, and building your fragrance choice based on that.

WHY IS SUSTAINABILITY IMPORTANT?

DedCool was founded with a strong focus on sustainability, which has been a part of our brand’s DNA since the beginning. Back in 2016, before sustainability became a buzzword, it was a personal value of mine as a conscious consumer, and also influenced by my California upbringing where we were mindful of the excessive droughts. My parents were also conscious individuals who instilled in me the importance of minimising waste. While we understand that waste is inevitable in product manufacturing, we do our best to minimise it. For instance, our packaging boxes are made from tree-free paper, and we use glass for all our products. We also offer reusable sample tins that we encourage our customers to carry with them. Whenever possible, we opt for glass as it is a recyclable material. Our laundry detergent comes in aluminium packaging, which is a plentiful resource, and our air fresheners are made from recycled paper.

WHAT ARE YOUR HERO PRODUCTS?

One of our best-selling fragrances is Milk, which serves as our layering scent and provides a light, second skin feel. After receiving numerous customer requests for a stronger version, we created Extra Milk. At our core, we prioritise our customers and always strive to put their needs first. We recently conducted a customer survey and were blown away by the 10,000 submissions we received. What’s even more amazing is that the initial email we sent out had no incentives or offers attached, yet still generated significant sales. We later rewarded our customers with gift cards, which led to another surge in sales, with 3,000 orders coming in within an hour. Ultimately, we value transparency and the ability to connect with our customers, and there’s nothing quite like hearing directly from them. ■

https://dedcool.com

RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |55

MECCA’S FRAGRANCE EDUCATION MANAGER REVEALS THE

latest trends in the scent world

With over a decade of experience in the beauty retail sector, Mecca’s Fragrance Education Manager, Laura Curtis, is an expert in designing and implementing exceptional customer experiences, creating captivating fragrance compositions, providing artistry services, and delivering science-based cosmetic training. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with the scent specialist to find out what the hottest trends are in the fragrance industry right now.

56| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023
FRAGRANCE

WHAT ARE THE LATEST WINTER FRAGRANCE TRENDS TO LOOK OUT FOR?

In winter, fragrance is more fleeting – that’s because our skin and the air can be drier, so the fragrant molecules dissipate more quickly. We’re seeing more and more brands introduce ‘fragrance enhancers’ into their collections, for layering underneath perfumes as ‘fixatives’ – they keep the fragrant molecules fixed to the skin for longer, using heavy molecules as their vehicle. DedCool Milk Layering Fragrance EDP, D.S. & Durga I Don’t Know What EDP and Ellis Brooklyn Iso Gamma Super EDP are all on-trend examples!

DO YOU HAVE ANY TIPS ON CUSTOMERS BUYING FRAGRANCE AS A GIFT FOR SOMEONE?

It’s always tricky to buy perfume as a gift because whether or not someone loves a fragrance is very personal to them. To play it safe, I recommend buying them a body lotion, body oil, hair mist or hand cream that matches their favourite fragrance, as a daily indulgence that they may not have thought to buy for themselves. If they are on the market for a new scent, a discovery set of mini fragrances is a thoughtful gift so that they have the opportunity to test and trial before committing to a full-sized bottle. If you are feeling extra generous, you could even add a gift voucher that covers the cost of the full-sized perfume so they can use it to purchase their favourite.

WHAT ARE SOME KEY INGREDIENTS HAVING A MOMENT RIGHT NOW?

We’re seeing a fragrance note called Ambroxan having a moment right now. Ambroxan is a base note with a warm, mineral, velvety quality that lends fragrances a captivating radiance. It also adds depth and longevity to other fragrance notes, thereby enhancing their potency and effect on the people around us. You can smell Ambroxan in the base of Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 EDP, Byredo Des Los Santos EDP, Le Labo AnOther 13 EDP and Escentric Molecule Molecule 02 – all beautiful winter fragrances - and all year round.

SHOULD A FRAGRANCE CHANGE DEPENDING ON THE SEASON? WHY/ WHY NOT?

It’s not a necessity, but many people are drawn to change their fragrance according to the season for good reason. In summertime, powerful fragrances with a lot of depth can feel to heavy due to humidity in the air and moisture on our skin. In winter, zesty or clean fragrances made up of ethereal molecules can dissipate quickly, leaving us unscented for most of the day. Generally speaking, woody, amber and spicy notes work best in cold weather to create a cocooning, comforting vibe. Fresher, uplifting notes like citrus, fruits and florals are perfect for warmer weather.

WHAT’S A FRAGRANCE FAUX PAS?

Many people over-apply their fragrance, which can be overwhelming the people around us. I recommend one spritz for a parfum or extrait, two spritzes for an eau de parfum, three spritzes for an eau de toilette and four spritzes for an eau de cologne. Remember: even though you can’t smell your own fragrance, it’s likely that the people around you can – especially when you first enter a room. Our noses can become fatigued to our own scent throughout the day, but it’s still fresh for the people in our orbit. I once heard someone say ‘fragrance should be discovered, not announced’, which is wonderful advice that I’ve shared many times since! ■

Mecca’s Fragrance Education Manager Laura Curtis. 01. You can smell Ambroxan in the base of Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 EDP. 02. DedCool Milk Layering Fragrance EDP.
01. 02. RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |57
“I once heard someone say ‘fragrance should be discovered, not announced’, which is wonderful advice...”

Ikkari I

n 2008, Adrian Norris cofounded Australian luxury womenswear brand Aje with Edwina Forest, building it into one of the most beloved labels by ‘It Girls’ and on an upward trajectory as it slowly expands overseas. Now, Norris has just unveiled a new skincare and wellness brand Ikkari, which he has spent the last five years slowly working on in the background. Featuring nearly 100 products spanning skincare, ingestibles and aromatherapy, it’s the accumulation of Norris’ passion for natural products and health and wellness. Jo-Anne Hui-Miller chats with Adrian about the driving force behind launching Ikkari, the challenges he’s discovered within the skincare industry and his plans for the brand in the future.

WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO ENTER THE SKINCARE CATEGORY AND HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE WHAT THE MARKET LOOKS LIKE RIGHT NOW?

I decided to enter the skincare category as part of my overall holistic health journey. I am a firm believer in the synergistic link between body, mind and spirit and the understanding of what goes in your body is just as important as what you put on your body. That’s why I developed Ikkari with three pillar categories – Inner, Outer and Aura – so customers could address their individual needs with ease and to highlight the importance of addressing all three of these areas holistically.

One of the driving reasons behind why I decided to start Ikkari was because my friends and family were coming to me for advice on all things health and wellness. They knew how much time and effort I had put into educating myself in this area and like me, found the industry so daunting and overwhelming. I realised that if my friends and family were struggling to navigate the information that’s out there, my customer would be too.

Ikkari streamlines the consumer journey, to allow my customers to make informed, educated decisions that empower them. Everyone is on a different journey, whether they’re just curious about holistic health or they’re an expert.

WHAT DO YOU THINK MODERN CUSTOMERS ARE LOOKING FOR FROM THEIR SKINCARE PRODUCTS?

It’s becoming more and more apparent that the wider industry has a lot of catching up to do when it comes to transparency and ingredients. I am passionate in the belief that our best and highest selves can only be achieved when we eliminate as many toxins from our daily lives as possible. That’s why I took the approach to formulate Ikkari products using the best possible technologies to ensure efficiency and efficacy. We utilise global-leading extraction methods to ensure our plant extracts function exactly the same way in our formulas as they do in the plant.

58| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 AUSSIE MADE

We also spent a lot of time during the research and development phase of the business sourcing packaging that was as readily recyclable to the consumer as possible. I am proud to say that 94 per cent of our launch range is kerbside recyclable (by weight). For the remaining 6 per cent of the packaging that can’t be easily recycled at kerbside, or for customers who aren’t sure, we offer an Ikkari Recycling Program in all Aje Athletica doors where customers can return their empty packaging in exchange for a voucher towards their next purchase.

We have also teamed up with Waste Revolution to secure a Plastic Neutral Certification – a process that took us six months to achieve. In the not-toodistant future, we will launch refills for a selection of our products to ensure we continue to work towards minimising our environmental impact. Sustainability is hugely important to me and at the core of the business. We will continue to invest in this area as the brand continues to grow.

WHAT ARE SOME OF THE CHALLENGES THAT YOU’VE DISCOVERED WITHIN THE SKINCARE CATEGORY?

Countering the wider belief that skincare is just about topicals and what you apply to your skin. At Ikkari, we firmly believe that skincare is holistic. It’s not just about topicals, or what you apply to your skin, it’s not just what you eat or the ingestibles you take, it’s not just about lifestyle, or movement, or the rituals you practise. It is the whole entire ecosystem of how we actually function. It’s where our concept of Inner, Outer and Aura came from.

From a business perspective, one of the biggest challenges I have faced – and I am sure many skincare brands face too – is around packaging and offering consumers the most environmentally-conscious options. It is considerably more expensive and time consuming for businesses to avoid plastic and other, non-recyclable materials.

There’s also a lot of innovation that needs to take place in this field which has not yet been done. Despite this, I am proud of the work we have done to date and know there is still more to do. We are committed to people, planet and prosperity and have put a robust plan in place to do better. We proudly refer to our sustainability guidelines as The Ikkari Responsibility Charter, where we will share our progress, pledge to create noticeable change and minimise our impact [on the planet].

IKKARI IS CURRENTLY STOCKED IN 15 AJE ATHLETICA STORES IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND, BUT TELL ME ABOUT YOUR BRICKSAND-MORTAR PLANS FOR THE BRAND.

We have just reached the milestone of one month of trade. After five years of research, planning and development to bring Ikkari to life, it is something to celebrate! However, we have innovative and exciting new products in development as well as standalone bricks-and-mortar stores.

Ikkari will open its flagship in Noosa later this year, with more standalone retail in the pipeline. I started Aje in Noosa two doors down from the location where Ikkari will be, so when the opportunity came up to secure another site, I knew it was the perfect location. Noosa is my home,

it’s where I retreat to – it’s a place that encompasses the Ikkari philosophy and I can’t wait to bring it to life.

Meanwhile, the future of holistic health and skin care services is incredibly exciting and it’s something we hope to encapsulate at Ikkari in the future, as we build out our bricks-and-mortar spaces.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE HOW THE SKINCARE INDUSTRY HAS EVOLVED IN RECENT YEARS AND WHAT DO YOU THINK IS DRIVING THAT?

Transparency. Thanks to the Internet and social media, consumers are much more savvy about what they are putting on their skin and what they’re willing to ingest. This has really spurred the wider industry to be transparent and it’s great to see how businesses are shedding light on their formulations and practices for consumers to make informed decisions that suit their lives and lifestyle.

We built Ikkari with transparency at its core, which is why we publish all of our ingredients and packaging materials for our customers to see. It is also why we created The Good Book – a complimentary quarterly publication for our customer, dedicated to education and showcasing different methods of achieving their higher self. ■

https://ikkari.com.au
RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |59
“Ikkari will open its flagship in Noosa later this year, with more standalone retail in the pipeline.”

WISH YOU WERE HERE

The Top Beauty Essentials for Travel

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OPPOSITE PAGE:

VS Sassoon Petite Style Steam n’ Straight - www.vssassoon.com.au

Monday Haircare Smooth Shampoo and Conditioner - https://mondayhaircare.com

Trinny London Energise Me Niacinamide Moisturiser - https://trinnylondon.com/au

Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder - www.mecca.com.au

Benefit Hoola Matte Bronzer Mini - www.benefitcosmetics.com

Espressoh Hey Brow Clear Eyebrow Fixing Gel - www.sephora.com.au

Mavala Mini Bio-Color Nail Polish in Volta - https://mavala.com.au

FaceGym Hydro-Bound Hyaluronic Acid + Niacinamide - www.mecca.com.au

Milk Makeup Lip & Cheek Blush - www.sephora.com.au

Christophe Robin Color Shield Cleansing Mask - https://frenchbeautyco.com.au

THIS PAGE:

Summer Fridays Cloud Dew Oil-Free Gel Cream and Jet Lag Mask

- https://summerfridays.com

Runway Room Peach Punch Mineral Cream Stick - www.runwayroom.com

iS Clinical Hydra Cool Serum - https://isclinical.com.au

OPI NFTease me - www.opi.net.au

Sol de Janeiro Brazilian Bum Bum Cream - www.mecca.com.au

Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense - www.sephora.com.au

Too Faced Travel Size Lip Injection Extreme Lip Plumper - www.mecca.com.au

Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Cream - www.mecca.com.au

Jurlique Rose Hand Cream - https://jurlique.com.au

Coverluxesilk Silk Mini Scrunchies and Beauty Sleep Eye Mask - https://coverluxesilk.com

Photography: Brandee Meier. Concept and product curation: Michelle Ruzzene.
RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |61

Have you met...

Samantha Lee is a hair and makeup artist based in Sydney. The mother-of-two has been working in the beauty industry for over a decade and has established herself as a leading expert in makeup artistry, especially for brides. After studying makeup artistry, Samantha started working on the retail floor at a cosmetics counter. She then made the leap to freelancing full-time, working for various fashion shows, editorial shoots, advertising campaigns and high profile musicians including Ed Sheeran, Fletcher, Troye Sivan and more.

SAMANTHA LEE
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HOW DID YOU GET INTO MAKEUP?

I was working as a legal secretary and hated it. I was always doing my friends’ makeup for events, so I thought I would do a makeup course. The rest, as they say, is history!

WHERE DID YOU LEARN YOUR SKILLS?

I finished a Diploma of Makeup at the Academy of Makeup, Sydney. From there I worked on a MAC Cosmetics counter for approximately two years to build up my confidence before I branched out on my own.

WHAT DOES A TYPICAL DAY LOOK LIKE?

A lot of early morning starts, especially for weddings. But every shoot or job is so different.

MOST REWARDING PART OF THE JOB?

One of the best things about this job is that you have the ability to help people feel good about themselves.

SECRETS TO WORKING SUCCESSFULLY FOR YOURSELF?

You have to believe in yourself and your ability to be successful. No matter what.

PROS/CONS OF WORKING FOR YOURSELF?

Some days you work, some days you don’t. Travelling can fantastic but a pain at the same time. I do love the freedom to choose my own schedule, especially now that I am a mum.

IF YOU WEREN’T IN BEAUTY, WHERE WOULD WE FIND YOU?

I always think about this! I couldn’t tell you because I love my job so much. I still can’t come up with anything.

Could not live without...

YOUR

ADVICE

TO BUDDING MAKEUP ARTISTS?

Compete with yourself, not compare yourself not other artists.

YOUR GO-TO WINTER BEAUTY LOOK?

I love a red lip - it’s a timeless look and it’s a makeup bag essential that every woman should have.

THE WORST MAKEUP FAUX PAS?

Wearing the wrong foundation colour - I can’t stress how important it is to shade match.

YOUR BEAUTY ICON?

Margot Robbie – she is the ultimate beauty muse.

YOUR TOP MAKEUP TIP?

Always make sure you wash your brushes. @samanthaleemua

Nudestix Blush Stick in Sunkissed Pink MAC Matte Lipstick in Velvet Teddy Ed Sheeran is one of Samantha’s clients. Margot Robbie Samantha Lee
RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |63 INFLUENCER

Last winter, mainly in Eastern Australia due to La Niña, we saw a rise in skin conditions due to higher rainfall and cooler conditions.

Cold air outside, dry indoor heating inside, low humidity levels and harsh winter winds (I’m looking at you Melbourne) can all zap your skin of moisture, making it feel tight, less radiant and often slightly sensitive. This is why it’s so important to understand products and ingredients you are applying to your skin, as like your wardrobe, products should definitely be altered and adapted to new needs during the cooler months.

The outermost layer of our skin, known as the skin barrier, acts as a shield against external factors. However, exposure to harsh cold air can compromise and modify this barrier, reducing its effectiveness and causing rapid loss of water, leading to skin tightening (in a negative way). This can also allow more pollutants to penetrate the skin, ultimately increasing skin sensitivity.

Switching it up for skin

WINTER

We have definitely been feeling those cold mornings, cooler days and some chilly evenings and as much as I love rugging up on the couch and layering fashion during winter, this season’s weather can play havoc on our skin.

On the other spectrum you have higher indoor heating use during colder months and air heaters dries the air, which causes moisture loss not only on a surface level, but internally within the body causing imbalances with skin regulation, resulting in higher levels of skin sensitivities.

Both situations are hard to balance from outdoor to indoor factors, so a change in product textures and strengths in ingredients is a must to keep skin calm and balanced.

Winter can be beneficial for oily skin as it can tighten pores, leading to less sebum and breakouts. However, dry skin can become even drier, resulting in more visible lines and wrinkles, as there is no moisture to plump the skin, causing it to feel sensitive and show visible redness.

The best thing to know is, it is not too late to save your winter skin blues!

We may be already in the winter season, but there are ways to re-balance, protect sand calm winter skin conditions.

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6 TIPS TO PROTECT SKIN IN WINTER 01

Shower Habits

Of course, we all love a hot shower in winter, but putting your face in direct line with the shower head, means the hot water pressure can tighten and create micro-tears to the skin, meaning major water loss and redness, breaking down the skin barrier which protects your skin. Consider taking warm instead of hot showers and limiting the amount of time spent in the shower. Avoid placing your face directly under the water jets to minimize skin damage. You can also try splashing your face with water instead.

Skin Flooding

Although I am not an active TikTok user, I have heard about the viral trend called ‘Skin Flooding’ circulating on the platform. This trend is particularly suitable for the colder months when our skin requires extra moisture. It involves layering hydration in multiple layers to flood the skin with moisture. While this may not be a new concept, it emphasises the significance of layering skincare.

Example - If the outer layer of your skin is already dry and you apply a moisturiser, it will probably not absorb well and most will be wasted. But if you apply a hydrating mist, or an essence so the skin is slightly damp, the moisturiser will be absorbed so much better and work to full capacity.

This is the same as a kitchen sponge… If the sponge is bone dry and you try to wipe a spill, it doesn’t absorb, but if the sponge is slightly damp, it absorbs the spill perfectly.

It’s the same for hyaluronic acid, we know it works better when applied to slightly damp skin.

So, if you add light layers of hydration, finishing with the more dense texture last, you’ll flood the skin with moisture to get best results.

Using mists and an essence in between steps of a cleanser, serum, moisturiser is perfect for the colder months of winter.

05

Barrier Creams

Step three talked about layering hydration to get better and more effective product absorption for each step of skincare. Products absorb faster and easier when the outer layer of the skin is soft and hydrated.

But, we also need to lock that hydration in! Even more-so in winter to avoid any hydration loss caused by cold outside air or drying indoor air caused by heating.

Cleanser Textures

In winter, skin tends to get drier, and coupled with hot showers, foaming cleansers, although effective for oily skin, can exacerbate dryness. While they may provide a satisfying lather, they can strip the skin of remaining oils, leaving it tight and potentially inflamed. Opt for a cream or very gentle textured cleanser in colder months and if you are a makeup wearer, a double cleanse is needed, so start with an oil cleanser to remover makeup gently without ‘stripping’ skin.

Less Actives

Actives are a popular buzzword in skincare, with Retinol, Vitamin C, and AHA’s being some of the most well-known. While they can be beneficial, especially for oily or acne-prone skin, it’s important to be cautious during the winter months. Certain actives, such as acids and retinol, can exacerbate dryness and sensitivity caused by winter weather. It’s not necessary to avoid them altogether, but it’s important to be mindful of how your skin is reacting and adjust your routine accordingly. Try halving the usage of these actives… If you usually use them daily, try three times a week or once a week instead. Or, simply use lower strengths or natural alternatives. There are so many to choose from, your skin will thank you for it. Focus on more hydration layers than strong actives and your skin will be glowing from within.

A good, dense, barrier cream can be great to lock in moisture and all that hydration prep you just did within your skin routine. They are the last step being a thicker texture, also known as an emollient, forming a film of moisture over skin to protect it from water loss and external factors.

Adding a face oil into your skin routine can also act similarly to a barrier cream, also usually used last in the routine because of the moisture weight of the product.

Home Environment

Finally, while not a skincare product, a humidifier can be a lifesaver for your skin during the winter months, especially if you use indoor heating, which can dry out the air. By adding moisture back into the air, a humidifier can help keep your skin calm and less prone to redness and sensitivity, particularly if used in your bedroom while you sleep. Oh, and yes, SPF is still just as important in winter! It’s never too late to save your winter skin, so start these tips now. ■

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06
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Understanding

Little Red Book vs WeChat

Little Red Book (Xiaohongshu) and WeChat are both popular social media platforms in China, but they differ in their focus and usage. What are their benefits? Which one is better? How can brands best utilise them to grow their customer base and drive sales? @icybutterfly shares her insights.

Ioften get questions about Little Red Book and WeChat, the two increasingly popular platforms. Little Red Book is a social media platform that focuses on e-commerce and user-generated content. WeChat is a messaging app that has become ubiquitous in China and has now expanded globally.

For Companies and Retailers

LITTLE RED BOOK

As of 2022, Little Red Book boasts of over 200 million active monthly users, with 65 per cent of them being female. The majority of users were born in the 1990s, and over 90 per cent hail from 1st and 2nd tier cities in China. Many people liken the platform to Pinterest, but Little Red Book’s focus on sharing product reviews and experiencebased content sets it apart. It is known as a ‘search engine’ and is highly regarded for its originality, creativity, and local communityfriendly approach.

Little Red Book is a great market research and product development tool. It allows you to access feedback, insights, consumer preferences and trends in the Chinese market. Its e-commerce functionality allows organisations to promote products directly to consumers, generate buzz and connect with potential customers, which means it can be quite cost-effective to reach a wider audience.

For Aussie brands, regardless of whether or not you have an official account registered already, Little Red Book is a great choice to expand and access to overseas markets. But for international brands, if you do want to collaborate with talent to promote your business within the Australian region, you have to be strategic with what and how you post, what hashtags you select and which talents to work with.

Little Red Book has the power to influence purchasing decisions. When partnering with KOLs (Key Opinion Leaders) or KOCs (Key Opinion Consumers), it is crucial to have a

deep understanding of their followers’ gender, age groups, demographics, interests, and behaviours. For instance, a KOL with a large male following can help a lipstick franchise drive more sales before Valentine’s Day (Chinese celebrate 5 Valentine’s Days in a year). Interestingly, even an account with

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over 1K followers in Australia can be considered a valuable investment if these talents are given the freedom to create content that aligns well with the algorithms.

Little Red Book boasts a highly unique algorithm system that is more stringent than social media apps like Instagram. The platform considers a range of factors, including word count, image quality, title relevance, and video content quality when determining reach. Certain words, such as ‘perfect’ are not allowed, and even product features like ‘anti-wrinkle’ or ‘dark spoterasure’ are flagged by the AI as sensitive.

Don’t be upset if you find negative reviews about you on Little Red Book. The users are given freedom to express all their feelings and thoughts as far as they follow the app’s terms and conditions.

For Beauty Consultants

As Little Red Book contents are more experience based than knowledge based. It gives you an excellent opportunity to open a conversation, connect with your customers and build relationships. Their research results may not be 100 per cent correct or up-to-date. Many products have alternative packaging in different regions globally, or may not be available in some countries. Some reviews may not be relevant to the client’s needs or skin concerns.

It’s impossible to determine the loyalty of the individual who posted the content, so it’s best not to start an argument. Instead, respond by saying, ‘She seems very genuine, I should follow her later. But since you’re with me, let me show you something that suits you.’ Before offering a skin consultation, makeup application service, or testing the product, you can ask questions such as ‘What makeup tips were you hoping to learn before finding this tutorial?’, ‘What is the skin type of the person who posted this content, and what is yours?’, ‘Where is this blogger located?’ and ‘How long ago was this post published?’

I’ve witnessed beauty advisors use their free time outside of work to create content and become social media stars. My journey was quite similar. If you can read and write in Chinese, consider creating a personal Little Red Book account today. You can share your opinions on ‘Five frequently asked questions about eye creams at my counter’ or ‘The hidden gem eyeshadow shades you should try next time you visit a cosmetic counter’. Just be sure to speak from the heart and, most importantly, follow your company’s social media policy for employees.

WECHAT

In recent years, I’ve noticed that more clients have been directing their attention towards Little Red Book instead of WeChat. Does this mean that WeChat has lost its appeal?

For Companies and Retailers

WeChat boasts 1.3 billion active users (2022), and offers messaging, social networking, mobile payments, and e-commerce capabilities. This means that businesses can leverage these features to their advantage.

There are different types of official accounts, including Subscription Accounts and Service Accounts, which are particularly relevant for businesses to register. The latest addition to WeChat’s features is the video channel, which can be linked to official accounts. Whether creating an official account on WeChat is worth it in 2023 will depend on your business’s nature, target audience, and marketing objectives.

A WeChat Subscription Account once was a powerful marketing and communication tool for sharing information about products, campaigns, sales and promotions. Most costumers nowadays prefer video content to reading articles. Which is why WeChat articles are less popular if you would like to drive brand exposure or increase product loyalties for beauty companies.

Service Accounts do face similar challenges, however, when it comes to promotional messages, the results may be better, as these accounts have advanced features. Maintaining a WeChat account requires experienced market insiders, which can be quite expensive. In-store campaigns using WeChat also require extra facilitation or training, which may be less time and cost-effective. Previously, accounts relied on individuals to repost articles in their WeChat moments to drive follower numbers, but this is no longer considered a trendy user behavior. Account holders now have to use group chats to promote their articles. Unless the articles are listed in the in-App search results or noticed by group

chat members (most users prefer to mute chat group notifications), the contents can barely reach any new users who haven’t followed/subscribed to these accounts.

For Beauty Consultants

You are lucky if your company has empowered you to use a WeChat account to connect with your customers. Congratulations if you are exchanging WeChat with your customers on a daily basis, as it means you have gained their extra trust! I remember when I was working in retail, I started my second WeChat account only for my customers. If you are willing to and able to (each WeChat is only registered to one phone number), I recommend you do so: it is professional, you can keep a work and life balance and you won’t have to keep changing settings in your WeChat Moment to protect your privacy. With your ‘work account’, rename it as ‘First Name + Brand + Role’ with minimum emoji, and use your own photo as your profile picture, (not your K-pop idol, an animated picture or a landscape photo). That way, your contacts can easily find you.

I used to take notes of their interests after adding each new contact. Which you can do so under their personal description section. Alternatively, when you send the first greeting message, you can confirm with them. Such as ‘Hi, this is X from Y brand in Z location. It’s so lovely meeting you today. Thank you for trusting me and adding me to your WeChat. I remember you mentioned you were interested in A, B & C, in D size and E shade. I will surely inform you once this stock arrives.’ This message not only helps you to understand your contacts’ personal interests, but it also helps you to create a ‘first-in, first-served’ system as you can check which customer requested it first. If you forget their names, you can always use the WeChat ‘in-App’ search feature to help find them.

If you are allowed to take photos in store, make sure you retouch the photos before posting them. And for videos, mute the background of your colleagues, or replace it with nice background music.

Another tip from me, is sharing some of your ‘fancy’ personal life off work, such as visiting art galleries, great books, your cute pets or travel highlights. People love to be inspired by others, and if they do like your style, they will of course visit you more often for your advice. Any other thoughts or questions?

You know where to find me! ■

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Out & About

TICKLED PINK

Priceline Pharmacy showcased the latest products from 59 brands – including 19 exclusive brands – to more than 200 media and influencers at its 10th bi-annual signature health and beauty tradeshow event The Beauty Prescription Live in Sydney. Priceline Pharmacy General Manager Andrew Vidler said the company was thrilled to continue to offer customers great value products from the world’s leading health and beauty brands. “Consumers of all ages are demanding quality health, beauty and wellness products that deliver results without hurting their wallets,” he said. “With new and exclusive brands like Everyday by Frank Body, tbh Skincare and Software Skin joining the Priceline family, we continue to reinforce our position as the health and beauty destination for Australians.” At the event, Priceline Ambassador Chrissie Swan spoke about positive ageing, in line with Priceline’s ‘I’m me’ campaign. www.priceline.com.au

Michelle Ruzzene covers the latest product launch events showcasing the best in retail beauty.

01. L to R: Hey Bud Co-founder Alex Roslaniec, tbh Skincare Co-founder Rachael Wilde, Software Skin Founder Niamh Mooney and Everyday by Frank Body Cofounder Bree Johnson. 02. L to R: Priceline Pharmacy General Manager Andrew Vidler, Wesfarmers Health Managing Director Emily Amos, Priceline Pharmacy Head of Marketing Gabby Tully, Priceline Pharmacy General Manager – Merchandise Chris Preston, Priceline Pharmacy General Manager – Customer Operations Cathi Scarce. 03. Priceline Pharmacy Ambassador Chrissie Swan and Priceline Pharmacy Head of Marketing Gabby Tully.
01. 04. 02. 03 68| RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023
04. The tradeshow floor.

PHARMACY’S TOP PICKS

There was a record-breaking number of attendees including community pharmacists, pharmacy assistants and industry professionals who embraced this year’s APP with 7,471 attendees. APP is The Pharmacy Guild of Australia’s annual national conference and the largest pharmacy conference and trade show in Australia. At the event, Terri Bakker was awarded the 2022 Pharmacy Guild of Australia / Maxigesic Pharmacy Assistant of the Year, Georgina Morris from LiveLife Pharmacy Bowen Healthcare was awarded MIMS/Guild Intern of the Year 2022, Bianca Busby from Western Australia was awarded the 2022 Glucojel Super Star Award and Pharmacy 777 Shoalwater was crowned Guild Pharmacy of the Year 2022. More than 1,000 of the conference attendees dressed to impress the Hollywood-themed Street Party, and danced the night away to two cover bands – Lisa Hunt’s Forever Soul and Bermuda Social. APP 2024 will be held March 14-17, 2024, at the Gold Coast. www.appconference.com

01. 02. 03. 04. 01. Lisa Hunt’s Forever Soul perform at the Street Party. 02. Terri Bakker, Pharmacy Guild of Australia/Maxigesic Pharmacy Assistant of the Year. 03. Georgina Morris, MIMS/Guild Intern of the Year.
RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |69 OUT & ABOUT
04. Pharmacy 777 Shoalwater was crowned Guild Pharmacy of the Year.

POWER OF MAKEUP

Chereine Waddell took out the coveted title of Makeup Artist of the Year at the annual MAGAP (Makeup Artist Guild Asia Pacific) and Beauty Boss Awards gala dinner. Chereine also won Beauty Makeup Artist of the Year, NSW State Makeup Artist of the Year and Creative Makeup Artist of the Year. Melanie Burnicle, founder of MAGAP, hosted the evening and said it was important to “celebrate the finest makeup artists in Australia and the brands that support the makeup artists”. Lesley Vanderwalt, best known for her work on the films Mad Max: Fury Road and The Great Gatsby, both of which earned her Academy Awards for Best Makeup and Hairstyling, was inducted into the Hall of Fame on the night. A full list of the MAGAP and Beauty Boss award winners can be found online at Retail Beauty. www.themagap.com

01. Chereine Waddell pictured with her husband and her awards. 02. Chemcorp International won Distributor of the Year. 03. Bahar Etminan was awarded Podcast / Vodcast of the Year for Ageless by Rescu. 4. Sarah Laidlaw was awarded Event NSW Makeup Artist of the Year and Makeup Video of the Year.
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BEST IN SHOW

More than 30 new brand and product launches were showcased at the House of Sephora, including luxury brow range Amy Jean Brows, firming powered skincare Bangn Body, face accessories range Embellish by Rowi, baby-safe and pregnancy-safe skincare range Evereden, clean haircare brand Fekkai, sun protection range Standard Procedure, simple and effective beauty brand Urban Jungle and vegan, genderless fragrance house Who is Elijah. Interest in products for intimate care and sexual wellness is high, with beauty consumers embracing new (and once-taboo) products as meaningful ways to enhance and fulfill their lives and four new sex wellness brands were also on show at the House of Sephora, including Dame, Lelo, Vush and Smile Makers. www.sephora.com.au

01. Dr Michelle Wong, founder of Lab Muffin. 02. Amy Jean, founder of Amy Jean Brows, at the showcase. 03. Sexual wellness brands were on show. 04. Helen Chik at the Urban Jungle claw machine. 05. Baby-safe and pregnancy-safe skincare range Evereden. 01. 02. 03. 05.
RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |71 OUT & ABOUT
04.

Kid’s stuff

Natio’s latest kids range offers a wide selection of Bath, Body, Pure Essential Oil blends, and accessories that cater to the needs of the entire family. The range features kid-safe essential oils and bath and body products that have been dermatologically tested to be gentle on the skin, making them ideal for toddlers to tweens. In addition to releasing this new range, the brand has shown its support for the Lighthouse Foundation by making a significant donation and enabling customers to donate at checkout throughout the entire Natio site. The brand also will gift products and organise skincare workshops for the young people in the foundation’s care, contributing to their self esteem. www.natio.com.au

No tan lines

After conducting extensive studies on the functionality of all skin tones and their ability to process tanning active ingredients, Bondi Sands has launched its Technocolor range. This self-tanning lineup consists of four products, each formulated with Dermachromatic Colour Technology, which features a blend of tanning active ingredients, electrolyte hydration, and colour enhancers to adjust to specific skin types and tones, resulting in the perfect tan. Bondi Sands Technocolor 1-hour Express Self-Tanning Foams are available now at exclusive retailer Chemist Warehouse for $26.95 and online at www.bondisands.com.au.

Happy days

Happy Skin by Essano is a range specifically formulated for Gen Z. The range is vegan and cruelty-free, with refillable packaging options and the affordable collection ranges from $9 to $40. Happy Skin has been dermatologically tested to suit all skin types provides a complete daily skincare routine that includes a Cleanser, Toner Mist, Glow Serum (with refillable option), Day Cream (with refillable option), and Sheet Mask. All products are formulated with skinimalism in mind and contain ingredients such as pre and postbiotics to reduce inflammation and redness, ceramides to plump and lock in moisture, hyaluronic acid for intense hydration, amino acids to protect and restore the skin’s microbiome, squalane to help strengthen the skin’s barrier, and niacinamide to even and brighten skin tone. https://happy-skin.co

BRAND NEWS
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Beauty’s Coolest

COLLABORATIONS

When Brands Unite for Limited-Edition Collections

Sundae Body x Gelato Messina

The Sundae Body x Gelato Messina collaboration features four mouth-watering flavours of Sundae’s famous Whipped Shower Foam body washes – Strawberries and Cream, Lemon Meringue Pie, Raspberry Sorbet and Lamington. Inspired by Messina’s best-selling ice cream flavours, these innovative foaming body washes are sure to sweeten up any shower routine. “Sundae Body is all about serving you delicious-smelling and fun everyday products and we couldn’t think of a better brand to align with than Gelato Messina,” says Sundae Body co-founder Lizzie Waley. “At Sundae, we’re all about creating unforgettable experiences and collaborating with brands that share our vision to help us achieve this goal. I mean … who wouldn’t want to shower with gelatoinspired body wash?! Collaborations like this also allow us to tap into different audiences that might not have heard about Sundae Body yet. Of course, Messina has an extremely engaged customer base, so this collection is an incredible opportunity for us to reach so many new people.” https://sundaebody.com

Vida Glow x Toni&Guy

Australian ingestible beauty brand Vida Glow has partnered with internationally acclaimed hairdressing salons, Toni&Guy, to provide a holistic approach to hair health. Toni&Guy recognised the need for a deeper solution to hair loss and thinning concerns and turned to Vida Glow’s clinically validated supplements to complement their topical treatments.

“We are thrilled to partner with Toni&Guy to offer a 360-degree approach to solving hair concerns. Our external hair health is so directly correlated to what’s happening on the inside. Addressing hair concerns bidirectionally will achieve the most effective results for Toni&Guy clients,” said Anna Lahey, founder of Vida Glow.

“Toni&Guy is always looking for ways to innovate and offer our clients the best possible solutions to their hair concerns, We are excited to partner with Vida Glow to provide our clients with a holistic approach to hair health,” said Sara Langford, CEO of Toni&Guy Australia. https://ausnz.vidaglow.com

Mermade Hair x Barbie

The new collaboration between Mermade Hair and Barbie is perfectly in line with the #barbiecore trend and the upcoming release of the Barbie movie. This collection is all about celebrating the longstanding love for Barbie across generations and having fun with hair to bring out the bold Mermade spirit. The collection features hot tools with a unique pink zebra print design on the handle, making it a fun and eye-catching addition to any styling routine. https://mermadehair.com.au

BRAND NEWS
RETAIL BEAUTY WINTER 2023 |73

Advertiser index

PlusOne

Front and back cover, Pages 10-11, www.chemcorp.com.au

Freezeframe

Inside front cover www.freeze-frame.com.au

Bio-Oil Pages 8-9

www.bio-oil.com.au

Weleda Pages 13,15,17 www.weleda.com.au

Ego Pharmaceuticals Pages 24-25

www.egopharm.com

LGFB Pages 44-45

https://lgfb.org.au

Runway Room Pages 46-47

www.runwayroom.com

Point Retail

Inside back cover www.pointretail.com

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https://www.pointretail.com/can-ai-design A PoINT Retail presents series proudly supported by Shop! ANZ
DISTRIBUTED BY CHEMCORP INTERNATIONAL www.chemcorp.com.au
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